2:20 right there during that flat spot is where the 4.3 final would help it up that incline. it goes flat right there but you can't shift back to 3rd... frustrating
I am just getting into this car... is yours the 3 door or 5 door hatch? I'm in the states, so we only got the 5 door. I don't want the ST.. I specifically want an NA build. my idea is to install the 4.3 final and lsd into the ST gearbox and swap that on the stock 1.6 ti-vct with an intake and exhaust and have it mapped. I originally didn't want to map it at all, and just see what I can get from the stock map with the close ratios and the 4.3. I know you need the st box, axles, and knuckles if you want the ST steering ratio and dust shields. But so far I haven't found any reason why the swap won't work. Worse case scenario the final drive and lsd would go in the ib5. Having trouble finding the usual civic bits like lightweight flywheels and so on, but this chassis never became popular in the states as a performance platform. this is the build I have in mind. should be wicked af without needing to crack open the engine.. everytime one blows, which would be hardly ever, you just drop another in and go. they should be close enough the same map should be fine. engine -aFe Takeda Momentum Pro Dry S 56-70048D 290 -velossa tech ram air scoop 115 -Pumaspeed Vulcan V2 Cat Back 605 -mobil1 5-20 syn 35 -fl-910s filter 8 -woosh rmm 101 drivetrain -6mt 1500 -lsd 750 -4.3 final 750 -axles 170 -knuckles 150 braking -stop tech lines 97 -power stop z26 street warrior front and rear d/s rotors and pads kit K7002-26 325 -st rear axle, calipers front and rear 350-500 -AIRTEC MOTORSPORT BRAKE COOLING GUIDES 213 -g2 caliper coating 65 -motul fluid wheels/tires ~1125 -rota slips 16x7 +40 black 715 -yokohama advan fleva 205/45/16 408 suspension -dna aluminum lca's 620 -bilstein b14 coilovers 871 -dna subframe stiffening brace lower 175 -dna rear adj torsion bar 350 -dna Racing rear strut bar with tie rods 255 -POWERFLEX Fiesta ST Rear Coil Spring Pads 81 exterior: -carbon hood 1200 -projector headlights 545 -honeycomb upper and lower inserts 100 -oem spoiler 175 -wing risers 17 -RA UR flaps BCA mech logo 177 -st front lip, side skirts, rear sides and valance kit 736 -spec-d taillights 260 -smoked rear bumper reflector lenses 21 -ebay rgb leds kit 40
@ravenzbot I loved mine, a really solid simple seat time car. I have an ST now and it's definitely been more high maintenance, but must admit the extra power is welcome. The biggest issue I had with the ZS was the gearing. So if you can get a 4.3 drive to work I'd say it'll help hugely. The tracks I drive at are quick technical so always found myself looking gears that weren't there. I did look into fitting the 6 speed box briefly, but there was very little information on how possible it is to do, and nobody bothers spending much money on ZS's over here because ST's are cheap and plentiful. I believe MFactory makes a 4.5 final drive for the 5 speed, not sure how available they are to you stateside.
@@MisterVaneo right yeah I did a a comparison thread on fiesta faction about the ib6 swap recently. from all the comparison pictures there, there doesn't seem to be anything stopping it. i'm blown away by the amount of NA tuning support such as cams, mapping and even high comp pistons and rods. I'm not a huge fan of FF turbo but I love NA FF setups. I currently have an FXT swapped 02 WRX that's FBO and set up pretty well with gc STI calipers etc. it's got a 4.44 final and I almost traded it for an ST but honestly I can't trade that much of a car for just an ST, so the NA hatch is the perfect recipe for me. To confirm what you've said about the finals.. they are interchangable as people are running the 4.06 final from the ib5 in the ST ib6. 4.3 on the ST would be too much imo... It would also cost around 3900 usd for the ib6 gearbox swap build complete with axles, knuckles, lightweight fly, st clutch kit, 4.3 final, lsd and the gearbox. you don't need the knuckles as the axles fit, but the ST steering ratio actually comes from the knuckles, not the rack.. so it's knuckles and outer tie rod ends iirc. i found all the info for the swap on a thread a few days ago but am having a stupid time locating it now. someone chimed in and gave the details for the swap. 4.5 would be amazing in the 5mt and would definitely squeeze more of your current setup in this vid although the problem with going 4.5 in the 5mt is that it would make highway driving a torture session with only 5 gears. that's my current issue in my wrx and i run 235 40 18's so with 205 50 15's or 205 45 16's I'd most likely be running 4k at 80mph. I don't know how bad it is under the 4.06 bc I have only driven the ST. I was expecting a similar experience to a 90s civic SI with this car but watching this I'm really impressed with what you're getting out of it as it with the 4.06
@@ravenzbot yeah it would be buzzy with a 4.5, track use only really. Mine wasn’t even a 4.08, the entry level 1.6 over here had a 3.82, so it was even worse. Only the “metal editions” got the 4.08, which came at quite a premium, an ST is better value for money. I think the build you’ve got in mind looks pretty solid, I had the same plan of just having a stock unopened engine and then treat it as a consumable. But I hammered mine, had 107k miles and took it like a champ, didn’t leak didn’t use any oil never overheated. Great seat time car really.
@@MisterVaneo wow.. all that and you were actually 3.82 which is iirc the ST ratio. granted you're mapped, but still, if you'd have had our US 4.06 it would have helped on those slopes for sure. the 4.3 and 4.5 would have moved the shift points around though.. what's your rpm limiter setting?
@jamietaylor1552 if you're looking for a noticeable bump in power them no, it's not worth it. Put an upgraded intake on and you'll get some extra sound and the ECU will self learn a bit. My 120ps dynod at 133 on the stock map with an Intake fitted. The main benefit to me of a map was the increased redline which on track helps keep the engine in the power band more of the time, but it's otherwise not cost effective.
@@MisterVaneo what is the list of mods? Obvious the S1600/Metal 134ps have a lot done factory anyway. All maps found so far seem based around the 120ps 1.6 only.
@@markturner-smith5309 Milltek exhaust with 4-1 manifold, sports catalytic converter and J1 performance induction kit. I believe the aftermarket maps used for both the 120ps and 134ps are the same but obviously increase in power is more relative to stock for the 120ps model.
Would u mind me asking how much you paid for the remap, I'm really tempted to get mine done, I've heard it make the torque curve a decent amount better but I assume any extra power comes right at the top of the power band
It was £349 for the map, but I will say these seem to self tune really well, mine is the 118bhp model but when I went for mapping I already had the full exhaust and induction kit and it made 136bhp on the stock map. So the remap only really netted me about 8bhp at peak, but it does hold ~10bhp more from 4000rpm onwards all the way to 6900rpm where the stock map gave up at 6500rpm. I’d say it was worthwhile for that rev limit raise alone, just being able to stay up in the power band between shifts is more noticeable than the peak figures suggest, plus it sounds better and is just generally more fun to rev it out higher!
@@MisterVaneo tbf that's cheaper than I was expecting, the rev limit raise sounds like a very good idea, I've only got the induction kit so id possibly aim for mid to high 130's, have you had yours mapped for e5 premium only?
@@gregcook1684 you should achieve that, I felt a noticeable bump in power just from cutting the bottom off the stock airbox when I first got the car. The map can run on e5 or e10 as far as I’m aware it will just pull ignition time out of the fuel quality is poor, I had a blend of e5 and e10 in the tank at the time of mapping due to availability at the time and it still made good numbers, but they told me there was more timing in it with a full tank of 99ron and the map would adjust for that.
Class bit of driving mate👍
Thanks. 👍🏻
2:20 right there during that flat spot is where the 4.3 final would help it up that incline. it goes flat right there but you can't shift back to 3rd... frustrating
I have a 140 zs too and I’m going to cadwell in may, not quite as fully set up as yours but will give it my best go!
They don't need a lot of setup, the fiesta is great out of the box. You'll have a great time I'm sure, Cadwell is a riot!
I am just getting into this car... is yours the 3 door or 5 door hatch?
I'm in the states, so we only got the 5 door. I don't want the ST.. I specifically want an NA build.
my idea is to install the 4.3 final and lsd into the ST gearbox and swap that on the stock 1.6 ti-vct with an intake and exhaust and have it mapped.
I originally didn't want to map it at all, and just see what I can get from the stock map with the close ratios and the 4.3.
I know you need the st box, axles, and knuckles if you want the ST steering ratio and dust shields.
But so far I haven't found any reason why the swap won't work. Worse case scenario the final drive and lsd would go in the ib5.
Having trouble finding the usual civic bits like lightweight flywheels and so on, but this chassis never became popular in the states as a performance platform.
this is the build I have in mind. should be wicked af without needing to crack open the engine.. everytime one blows, which would be hardly ever, you just drop another in and go. they should be close enough the same map should be fine.
engine
-aFe Takeda Momentum Pro Dry S 56-70048D 290
-velossa tech ram air scoop 115
-Pumaspeed Vulcan V2 Cat Back 605
-mobil1 5-20 syn 35
-fl-910s filter 8
-woosh rmm 101
drivetrain
-6mt 1500
-lsd 750
-4.3 final 750
-axles 170
-knuckles 150
braking
-stop tech lines 97
-power stop z26 street warrior front and rear d/s rotors and pads kit K7002-26 325
-st rear axle, calipers front and rear 350-500
-AIRTEC MOTORSPORT BRAKE COOLING GUIDES 213
-g2 caliper coating 65
-motul fluid
wheels/tires ~1125
-rota slips 16x7 +40 black 715
-yokohama advan fleva 205/45/16 408
suspension
-dna aluminum lca's 620
-bilstein b14 coilovers 871
-dna subframe stiffening brace lower 175
-dna rear adj torsion bar 350
-dna Racing rear strut bar with tie rods 255
-POWERFLEX Fiesta ST Rear Coil Spring Pads 81
exterior:
-carbon hood 1200
-projector headlights 545
-honeycomb upper and lower inserts 100
-oem spoiler 175
-wing risers 17
-RA UR flaps BCA mech logo 177
-st front lip, side skirts, rear sides and valance kit 736
-spec-d taillights 260
-smoked rear bumper reflector lenses 21
-ebay rgb leds kit 40
@ravenzbot I loved mine, a really solid simple seat time car. I have an ST now and it's definitely been more high maintenance, but must admit the extra power is welcome. The biggest issue I had with the ZS was the gearing. So if you can get a 4.3 drive to work I'd say it'll help hugely. The tracks I drive at are quick technical so always found myself looking gears that weren't there. I did look into fitting the 6 speed box briefly, but there was very little information on how possible it is to do, and nobody bothers spending much money on ZS's over here because ST's are cheap and plentiful. I believe MFactory makes a 4.5 final drive for the 5 speed, not sure how available they are to you stateside.
And yes it was 3 door hatch
@@MisterVaneo right yeah I did a a comparison thread on fiesta faction about the ib6 swap recently. from all the comparison pictures there, there doesn't seem to be anything stopping it. i'm blown away by the amount of NA tuning support such as cams, mapping and even high comp pistons and rods. I'm not a huge fan of FF turbo but I love NA FF setups. I currently have an FXT swapped 02 WRX that's FBO and set up pretty well with gc STI calipers etc. it's got a 4.44 final and I almost traded it for an ST but honestly I can't trade that much of a car for just an ST, so the NA hatch is the perfect recipe for me.
To confirm what you've said about the finals.. they are interchangable as people are running the 4.06 final from the ib5 in the ST ib6. 4.3 on the ST would be too much imo...
It would also cost around 3900 usd for the ib6 gearbox swap build complete with axles, knuckles, lightweight fly, st clutch kit, 4.3 final, lsd and the gearbox. you don't need the knuckles as the axles fit, but the ST steering ratio actually comes from the knuckles, not the rack.. so it's knuckles and outer tie rod ends iirc. i found all the info for the swap on a thread a few days ago but am having a stupid time locating it now.
someone chimed in and gave the details for the swap.
4.5 would be amazing in the 5mt and would definitely squeeze more of your current setup in this vid although the problem with going 4.5 in the 5mt is that it would make highway driving a torture session with only 5 gears. that's my current issue in my wrx and i run 235 40 18's so with 205 50 15's or 205 45 16's I'd most likely be running 4k at 80mph.
I don't know how bad it is under the 4.06 bc I have only driven the ST.
I was expecting a similar experience to a 90s civic SI with this car but watching this I'm really impressed with what you're getting out of it as it with the 4.06
@@ravenzbot yeah it would be buzzy with a 4.5, track use only really. Mine wasn’t even a 4.08, the entry level 1.6 over here had a 3.82, so it was even worse. Only the “metal editions” got the 4.08, which came at quite a premium, an ST is better value for money.
I think the build you’ve got in mind looks pretty solid, I had the same plan of just having a stock unopened engine and then treat it as a consumable. But I hammered mine, had 107k miles and took it like a champ, didn’t leak didn’t use any oil never overheated. Great seat time car really.
@@MisterVaneo wow.. all that and you were actually 3.82 which is iirc the ST ratio. granted you're mapped, but still, if you'd have had our US 4.06 it would have helped on those slopes for sure. the 4.3 and 4.5 would have moved the shift points around though.. what's your rpm limiter setting?
would there be any benefit to stage 1 my zetec s 1.6 120 ps or is there no point
@jamietaylor1552 if you're looking for a noticeable bump in power them no, it's not worth it. Put an upgraded intake on and you'll get some extra sound and the ECU will self learn a bit. My 120ps dynod at 133 on the stock map with an Intake fitted. The main benefit to me of a map was the increased redline which on track helps keep the engine in the power band more of the time, but it's otherwise not cost effective.
@@MisterVaneo cheers mate
@@MisterVaneowhat intake did you fit to this car ??
@jamietaylor1552 J1 induction kit
120ps 1.6 Zetec S?
How much tuned? I have a 134ps S1600
Yes 120ps tuned to ~140ps. 143bhp on the dyno.
@@MisterVaneo what is the list of mods? Obvious the S1600/Metal 134ps have a lot done factory anyway.
All maps found so far seem based around the 120ps 1.6 only.
@@markturner-smith5309 Milltek exhaust with 4-1 manifold, sports catalytic converter and J1 performance induction kit. I believe the aftermarket maps used for both the 120ps and 134ps are the same but obviously increase in power is more relative to stock for the 120ps model.
@@MisterVaneo ok that makes sense on the maps.
J1 induction kit first on my list.
@@MisterVaneo Can we put a turbo in it ?
Would u mind me asking how much you paid for the remap, I'm really tempted to get mine done, I've heard it make the torque curve a decent amount better but I assume any extra power comes right at the top of the power band
It was £349 for the map, but I will say these seem to self tune really well, mine is the 118bhp model but when I went for mapping I already had the full exhaust and induction kit and it made 136bhp on the stock map. So the remap only really netted me about 8bhp at peak, but it does hold ~10bhp more from 4000rpm onwards all the way to 6900rpm where the stock map gave up at 6500rpm. I’d say it was worthwhile for that rev limit raise alone, just being able to stay up in the power band between shifts is more noticeable than the peak figures suggest, plus it sounds better and is just generally more fun to rev it out higher!
@@MisterVaneo tbf that's cheaper than I was expecting, the rev limit raise sounds like a very good idea, I've only got the induction kit so id possibly aim for mid to high 130's, have you had yours mapped for e5 premium only?
@@gregcook1684 you should achieve that, I felt a noticeable bump in power just from cutting the bottom off the stock airbox when I first got the car. The map can run on e5 or e10 as far as I’m aware it will just pull ignition time out of the fuel quality is poor, I had a blend of e5 and e10 in the tank at the time of mapping due to availability at the time and it still made good numbers, but they told me there was more timing in it with a full tank of 99ron and the map would adjust for that.
Don`t bother mate Cubic squares (cc) will always out perform a REMAP Trust me :)