Highly agree with you, I was just watching it regarding a problem I have with one of my front wheel hub assembly units making a humming sound when going down the road and it goes away whenever I turn right.
Great video! For past week I've had the rattling/scraping sound after about 15 minutes of highway driving down here in Baja. Was afraid it might be the turbos, Local Ford place told me it was probably the IWE 4X4 gears that might cost +/-$1000 to replace. Made an appointment for next week to replace. But then I saw the video, and checked with a local mechanic who said there was no vacuum and that the solenoid was shot. He's getting the parts (solenoid and check valve) from Auto Zone in La Paz for about $40 and will replace tomorrow for about 10 minutes of work. Glad I don't have to pay Ford's ripoff charges!
Incredible explanation and video. Thank you for dumbing it down and teaching PROPERLY on the internal workings AND...how the marry up during (and not) the vehicle in motion.
I had this same issue for months. Couldn't figure it out so I started researching and found tons of people with the problem. DO NOT REPLACE YOUR IWE's UNTIL YOU REPLACE THE VACUUM TUBE that runs between the 2 IWE's and the solenoid. This part cost 40 bucks and is most likely the culprit of the vacuum leak. Its extremely small, exposed and somewhat brittle plastic. From my experience I would say chase the problem like so: 1) replace the check valve - $20 3mins of work 2) test and replace the vacuum tube between the two IWE's - $40 45mins of work at most (dealer wanted $350) 3) replace the IWE's - $150 2-4 hours of work (dealer wanted $800)
When you are not busy making excellent videos you might consider teaching so many others how to do it. Great job getting to the point and explaining everything so clearly.
While the hubs/actuators on mine were not the problem, this video did a nice job of explaining the system and helped me diagnose and find my problem. My 2011, bought new, w 199k miles on it started rapid clicking from the front. Turned out that the vacuum line to the left hub was cracked and allowing enough leakage to allow the hubs to remain engaged all the time but back off when the hose bent "just right" to try to disengage. Only clicked when turning hard. Anyway, this video really helped. Thank you!
Lol good video, just got the gentle grind on my 2017 F150 over here in the UK, have ordered the solenoid and check valve to start with (Cheapest to replace so far) after watching other videos, will now do the simple check of jacking wheel up and spinning after replacing the parts and see if sorted. If not will order IWE and sort myself . Thanks for the video. Andy
Great video. I am installing Bilstein 5100 shocks in front struts of my 2016 4x4. This video will help me make sure I get the actuator and axles back together properly and tested. Thanks!
Right on. Glad it helped. After 4 years on that truck, still no issues so far. It's better than the delete kit which forces the front differential to turn always, which also puts more wear on the transfer case bearings.
They sound like dragging a trashcan lid when bad. But you'd use the same exact test I used. Wheel off ground, no vacc ..rotate wheel, shaft should rotate (4wd). Apply vacc ..rotate wheel, shaft should NOT rotate (2wd). Do that with vacc pump. If it works ..the repeat with engine running and try switch. If it doesn't work ..it's the solenoid.
That truck came from NY and surprisingly little rust. I feel your pain on the rusted ones. I use 50/50 acetone/atf. Way better than PBBlaster. I also use a torch on stubborn spots.
I recently had both hub assemblies replaced. I told them i feared something wrong in the IWE vacuums line from what i was hearing and from my online research. So I assumed when they replaced rhe hub assemblies they had checked over the entire IWE system. With 2 hub assemblies and my brake pads replaced i paid 1400. Here it is about 2wks later and I am hearing the sound again. Ive parked my truck and am waiting until after Thanksgiving to call my Ford dealership. Hoping their mechanics are a bit smarter than the ones who charged me 1400 not to fix the problem.
My truck just started making the grinding noise about two weeks ago I thought it was brakes until I got to reading about iwe. Mine doesn’t grind every time tho sometimes it does sometimes I can drive my truck several times before it does it again. What do you thank it is?? Thanks for the help.
I’ve replaced the solenoid and check valve. Still have the noise. Looking under truck moving forward my front driveshaft and passenger axle spins. Next I’m replacing iwes and vacuum lines hopefully all good after that. Thanks for this video
You can pull the vac lines off down at the wheels and plug them. The test if vacc holds from the solenoid. That will tell you if you lines are good. Also, you can use a vacc pump on a short hose to one wheel and see if it locks to the axel when rotating tire. With vacc applied it should spin but NOT the cv axel. Hope that makes sense.
@@jonparkmac yes it makes sense. Before I replace them I’ll check just to see what the culprit was but I figured with all new parts maybe I’ll get another 90k without iwe issues. My lines are kinda dry rotted feeling anyways so for 50 bucks figured what the heck
@@jonparkmac as far as I know they just do. Mine make noise during turns and it sounds like they will partially engage and grand a little bit. I've already replaced them once. And some guys in my f150 group have said they have multiple times. It's a well known failure. Ford's tsb on them said to pull the vacuum hose and cap it. Basically the same as the delete.
Perfect for me.. I have 03 Expedition during a heatwave the solenoid went bad and all of the pressure was released.. I drove around for maybe 3 days hearing grinding noise when I accellerated I did'nt have a clue what was wrong I thought it was my Transmission because it was low on fluid but after putting inn new fluid in the tranny no problems with that only the grinding continued I just ordered solenoid from amazon $22.. waiting to install and see if this corrects the problem if not where did you get the IWE part and what was the cost?..Rock auto is getting ridiculous with shipping cost
If the vaccum solenoid stopped, then it would have just stayed locked and not cause damage .. but if it was partial or sucking on/off could have jacked it up. I got mine on Amazon 45 bucks, no issues over a year. www.amazon.com/dp/B07MWSD94M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_T76NH4HV1JTN2AH0K9D7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
First off Great video, I just replaced an accuator on my f150 and when I get up to speed around 20mph in my truck it started to make an awful sound like the splines were not meshing.. any idea why this would be? I took it all apart and put it back together again and everything is in properly I believe. Could it be a vacuum leak
Thanks for this video--a good explanation of how these IWE hubs work. My 2011 F-150 is intermittently making a terrible noise--like dragging a trash can, and I figured out if I switch into 4WD high, the sound goes away. So obviously a 4WD system related problem. Your explanation at the end of the video (ua-cam.com/video/kJDaeANoxPU/v-deo.html) seems to explain what is happening with my truck. I assume my hubs are intermittently failing or losing vacuum causing them to try to engage the front axles. However, since I did not switch to 4WD high, the axles are not actually engaged. So I have a spinning wheel trying to engage with a stationary axle! Yikes! I used a vacuum gauge and confirm I have 22 to 24 pounds of steady vacuum at each hub. So maybe the hubs themselves are bad--like yours in this video. Thanks!
Took my truck to Ford Service. Both my IWE hubs were bad. One was broken into 2 pieces and the other cracked. All good now. We suspect the hubs were ham fisted by a mechanic who recently installed new shocks and struts. Thanks, again!
Thanks Jon. I’m having this prob for the second time on my 2018 f150. What I don’t understand is why they seem to be partially working. At low speed on level roads no problem. On an incline at 30 mph or so the rattling starts. Get off the gas and noise stops. Does the vacuum vary under load? I’ve changed the check valve and solenoid and it’s still the same. Any ideas?
Great video! I've had my 2013 Ford F150 Lariat at 3 different dealerships four times. I used the dealers because of the drive train warranty that is now expired. My front right IWE is giving me a fit. I'm read the Lariats have a special transfer case (BorgWarner) that spin the front drive shaft and CV axles constantly even in 2W drive. Mine are spinning in 2W drive. Vacuum tests are good. Supposedly IWEs are good according to the dealer. Solenoid and vacuum switch are brand new. When I turn slight right on a curved road I can hear a scraping/grinding noise. The noise goes away when I turn back left. Any ideas? Sorry for my long rant.
Glad to help. That vaccum us certainly an issue, but you may have damaged the iwe gears in the meantime, so still might need to replace. Once you get vaccum do a test with wheels off ground and take in and out of 4x. When in 4x ..axel will engage and turn. When not in 4x, wheel should turn .. but not axel. Then take it for a real road test. Good luck!
THANKS Jon . . . I wanted to know more about my IWE Sys. and you answered any question I may have asked. Are you an Engineer ??? My 2017XL with only 15K mi. started to act up last week. I got on it and immed. started to research the probable cause ??? I bought an updated check valve blue/white instead of the factory blk/white from the dealer and in 15 mins I was like new again. Im sure none of the other parts were damaged. Because I avoided the rpm range that was causing it to collide and make the noise until I installed the new valve and hose assembly. I got a spare $17 OEM from the WWW in the glove box too. The dealer did not pay attention to a word I said and wanted to tear it completely down and replace everything . . . without even looking at it. Always replace that check valve with 8" hose assembly FIRST . . . unless you drove it like that for too long . . . then ??? Because that is the #1 Most Likely Cause and cheapest fix unles you damaged the system. I got LUCKY.
Jonathan McClure no vacuum leaks for my IWE system. My truck was in the shop for two weeks and it’s still broke. I think my right CV axle might be slightly bent from an accident a couple years ago. Perhaps the CV axle bearing is also bad.
@@ryanmcandrew1839 The dealer swapped my front differential with a used one and the grinding noise went away for a while. The dealer removed my front drive shaft and no noise while driving and the reason why they recommended the differential swap. That is until I went back to the beach to use the 4x4 and the grinding came back. After I got off the sand I unplugged the solenoid to get rid of the noise. Many months later I went on a road trip and my mpg was terrible so I plugged in the solenoid again and to my surprise no grinding noise. It's an aggravating problem with no real solutions that I can find with my truck. Both IWEs replaced, front differential, solenoid and vacuum switch both replaced (twice), vacuum lines checked and hold pressure, and right wheel hub replaced. I hope you figure it out.
Just replaced both IWE’s on 2013 f150. Everything seems fine when going down the road, the grinding noise is gone. Axles are not spinning when In 2wd. Vacuum seems all ok. But when I go into 4x4 the grinding noise is back from the drivers side making my 4x4 not work any ideas what could be the problem? Thanks..
Lift the front wheel off ground and try to rotate it with engine off. It should bind and not slip or ratchet. May have to bind the axel since it can turn with limited slip differential. If the wheel does not stay locked then it means the iwe is not working.
So if there is no vaccum, the truck is engage in 4x4 all the time(is it running in 4 high all the time?) So does this mean that the iwe eliminators will engage my 4x4 all the time? I am new to this Ford system and still trying to figure it out, if you can give me some knowledge about this I really appreciate it.
Thanks for all great video. sorry for my english, I try to find an answer on many many google search but I cant found it, perhaps you have it... I will try to explain my case. On my F150 2007 I changed both Actuator, both check valve, selenoid is fine and I tested presure, all is good, no issue. I can engage as well 4x4 in 4Hi or 4low mode when I am stopped and all is working, but when I try to engage 4HI on the road I hear a grind noise, the vacuum actuator hub try to engage but they are not able to slide in. Like you said there are 2 phases when we put in 4Hi on the road, first phase ( I think ) something engage the front axel, second phase is when the front axle turn at the same revolution from back axle and are synchronized something engage the actuator hub to slide in position. I think my front axle have not the same revolution from the back axle and cannot slide in position. Somebody have an idea why I cant put 4Hi on road ? Do you think that both axles are not synchronized? Thanks !
Yep. You don't have to do both. You can check the vaccumm on each wheel, then check if each one rotates with axel when tire off ground. With vaccumm or engine running, the axel should not turn or bind. However, there is now way to check teeth condition unless you take it apart.
What would be the correct way of inserting the cv axle to the iwe? Do you pull vacuum on the iwe and then insert the cv axle? If so, how do you know the iwe gears will line up with the cv axle gears once vacuum is released? Or do you insert the cv axle to the iwe without pulling vacuum and just gently wiggle and align the cv axle to the iwe gear?
The later with no vacuum but I see no reason why you couldn't do it with vac too. The main thing is to carefully fit it all together with no binding and then rotate the wheel with vaccum on and off and make sure it operates correctly.
@@jonparkmac when I had a leveling kit installed on my F150 the shop ruined my IWE, don't know how it happened since they claimed they didn't take the cv out but instead undid the lower control arm
@@818silencer818 they lied because you loosen the arm to pivot it down to make room to get the strut out and you have to allow the cv to come out for it to swing down. If they did not, then there is no way for the iwe to have been disturbed because the axl nut holds it in place
I know because I did it to myself when I installed a lvl kit. What happens if you don't let that out ring mesh with the cv splines .. it crams the ring back into the wheel side of the cv. Now the spring is pushing the ring against the offset cv gear instead of slipping on to it.
@@jonparkmac Thank you Jonathan for your fast response. I was researching why my f150 (1998 2wd) was knocking when under a load. Thought this might have been the culprit possibly.
That actually sounds like a spun rod bearing on the engine crank shaft. Hold a wooden broom handle to your ear and touch spots on the engine with it. If the knocking is heard ..spun bearing.
So whats wrong with mine as I try to put into 4 high it will hump in 4 low... is the motor bad on transfer case? Which i have one bought havent put on....
When you put the vacuum hub back on the line will have no vacuum when you start the truck correct? So that wheel will briefly be in 4 wheel drive? Does the vacuum immediately pull it back in to 2WD as soon as the truck is started? I’ve heard of people messing up their 4x4 while installing leveling kits and have services lights come up on the dash.
The check valve up by the solenoid should hold the vacuum on the actuator if there's no leaks. Take your vac pump and attach it to the line at the iwe that supplies vacuum. Pull vacuum on that line and see if it bleeds off. This will let you know if your line or check valve is bad. If all are good shutting off the engine should leave the vehicle in 2wd.
My 2013 seems fine going straight but if I turn left or right at highway speeds it like a buzz in my steering wheel . I put a camera under it and my CV axles are constantly turning. So it's probably my a vacuum leak right?
@@jonparkmac checked vacuum at both wheels and at the solenoid going down the road and it's fine. I jacked the front up with truck running and cv axles didn't spin. But I put a camera under the truck and went down the road and they were spinning. Its driving me crazy. I dropped it off at the shop this morning. Thanks for the reply
Any ideas on a 2023 f150 brand new sounds like I’m driving over a rumble strip. Read a thread about a lot of owners of new trucks that this happens, apparently the 2021 and up are electric actuators and not vacuum? And also only does it when below freezing temps, something to do with the warm up cycle? Any info would be greatly appreciated thanks!
@@jonparkmac ya that’s what I’ll have to do. Apparently tons of people bring theirs in and they change the EIWE and it always does it again. Thanks for your reply thought and your video really helps men understand how these work thanks
Would this cause a rattle noise in 2wd, and once I engage 4x4 it goes away?? I changed the solenoid and the part that connects lol but sound is still there on passenger side
I got a questions, I changed mine on the driver side along with the solenoid and the check valve. Everything seems to be fine but the wheel has alot of resistance to turn by hand when in 2wd while the truck is running. The shaft doesn't spin anymore like it used to bcuz the old one was locked in 4wd. And there's no grinding noise. What could it be 🤔
@@danielcastro8012 just leave it alone it won't be an issue. The brake calipers aren't spring loaded so they don't retract when no pressure. But when your truck is moving, they loosen a little and slip. Don't sweat it brutha.
@@jonparkmac idk man, sounds kinda bad 😬 rotors are drilled and slotted and pads are new. And also I get the slightest push back on the brake pedal when coming to a stop from a very very slow speed.
@@danielcastro8012 if your worried, remove the pads and spin the hub. If it's still not free then it's your bearings or the iwe is not done right. Only way to know is dig into it.
Just curious. Do you know if the two vacuum ports at the actuator end pull in and out when vacuum is applied to either port, respectively? Or is there two ports for some other reason?
Never mind. I did some research and found the 2nd port is simply a vent to atmospheric pressure. I wanted to know if I could connect my vac pump right at the hub assembly for testing since my truck is up on a lift. So I should be able to do this.
So.,. If I deleted the IWE and put in the .. IWE Eliminator part.. Dorman.. or another company equivalent part that would eliminate the vacuum portion of the process and still allow easy switch to 4 wheel
You can do that, but it means your axel and differential and drive shaft will always be turning and wearing. Also drags down another mpg. Just know the trade offs your making.
I don't know, but seeing 4a is always active to compensate for rear spin in subsecond, I'd say it likely does always turn in front. You can/should test that and see.
@jonparkmac Am having a rubbing sound on the front left wheel an am trying to figure out what it is I lift up the truck spin the wheel and axels did spin, then I turn the truck on spin the wheel and axels didn't spin. but then I was filming the bottom of the truck while driving and the axels were spining and truck was in 2wd. Do you have any idea of what could it be I already replace selenoid and check valve
It sounds like it's working properly at the IWE. Just because the CVs rotate when driving doesn't mean the hubs are locked in. For the instant-on feature .. I would expect it to do that. Can't say this is where your noise is coming from. They usually sound like dragging a tin trashcan lid under the truck when the iwe are ground out.
Correct. Spring loaded so when no vaccum, pushes ring toward wheel over both axel and hub gears. But with vac, it is sucked back on to axel only. Look at 6:20 where I demonstrate that.
Hi Jonathan McClure have a same a probleme ... i replaced two time the lock and it broke again... brand new selenoid and hose .. . the vaccum is OK... splane is ok ... bearing no dommage dont know why
Not following you. What is splane (spline?) and why are looking at bearings? Did you do the tests with vaccum and make sure it operates correctly? What exactly is your issue.
Jonathan McClure Thanks for the response I changed the hub and solenoid. But that still wasn’t the problem. It was the valve lines going to the 4 wheel drive. Thanks again
Yeah it's quirky. This one is going on 4 years now with no issues yet. I don't know what causes them to fail except people taking off on startup without letting the vacuum activate. The rings are soft metal and if you loose vacuum in the mud/snow it defaults to 4wd, so a few good decisions on an otherwise unreliable idea. Without it ..the whole front differential and CV joints constantly wear which is way more expensive to repair.
This is one of the best mechanical tutorials I have ever seen on UA-cam. No wasted time, and well explained. Thanks for the help
Highly agree with you, I was just watching it regarding a problem I have with one of my front wheel hub assembly units making a humming sound when going down the road and it goes away whenever I turn right.
Great video! For past week I've had the rattling/scraping sound after about 15 minutes of highway driving down here in Baja. Was afraid it might be the turbos, Local Ford place told me it was probably the IWE 4X4 gears that might cost +/-$1000 to replace. Made an appointment for next week to replace. But then I saw the video, and checked with a local mechanic who said there was no vacuum and that the solenoid was shot. He's getting the parts (solenoid and check valve) from Auto Zone in La Paz for about $40 and will replace tomorrow for about 10 minutes of work. Glad I don't have to pay Ford's ripoff charges!
Great video, specially the part where you explained how 4 x 4 can engage while the car is in motion👍👏👏
Incredible explanation and video. Thank you for dumbing it down and teaching PROPERLY on the internal workings AND...how the marry up during (and not) the vehicle in motion.
One of the best videos I've seen for this IWE replacement. Short but very informative.
I had this same issue for months. Couldn't figure it out so I started researching and found tons of people with the problem. DO NOT REPLACE YOUR IWE's UNTIL YOU REPLACE THE VACUUM TUBE that runs between the 2 IWE's and the solenoid. This part cost 40 bucks and is most likely the culprit of the vacuum leak. Its extremely small, exposed and somewhat brittle plastic.
From my experience I would say chase the problem like so:
1) replace the check valve - $20 3mins of work
2) test and replace the vacuum tube between the two IWE's - $40 45mins of work at most (dealer wanted $350)
3) replace the IWE's - $150 2-4 hours of work (dealer wanted $800)
Yes. Just test the parts with vaccum to know what to replace. It's a simple system.
Thank you so much for posting this video, very simple and right to the point. You did an excellent job, very helpful, thanks again!
Great video; informative, to the point, pertinent and chock full of helpful information.
Thanks so much for posting.
When you are not busy making excellent videos you might consider teaching so many others how to do it. Great job getting to the point and explaining everything so clearly.
Thanks for the kind words. Happy to help others.
Great explanation of the system. Thanks
While the hubs/actuators on mine were not the problem, this video did a nice job of explaining the system and helped me diagnose and find my problem. My 2011, bought new, w 199k miles on it started rapid clicking from the front. Turned out that the vacuum line to the left hub was cracked and allowing enough leakage to allow the hubs to remain engaged all the time but back off when the hose bent "just right" to try to disengage. Only clicked when turning hard. Anyway, this video really helped. Thank you!
Cool. Right on, I'd rather someone know how it works than just blindly show a procedure. Glad it helped to you.
Lol good video, just got the gentle grind on my 2017 F150 over here in the UK, have ordered the solenoid and check valve to start with (Cheapest to replace so far) after watching other videos, will now do the simple check of jacking wheel up and spinning after replacing the parts and see if sorted. If not will order IWE and sort myself . Thanks for the video. Andy
Great video. I am installing Bilstein 5100 shocks in front struts of my 2016 4x4. This video will help me make sure I get the actuator and axles back together properly and tested. Thanks!
Rather enjoyed this, thank you! Experiencing a cold weather related issue with my IWE's so looking forward to tackling it when it warms up!
Great information! Thank you for the video, it has really helped me understand the 4x4 system on my F150!
Glad to help
You answered my question at the very end! I was wondering the same thing. Thanks for the great video.
Right on. Glad it helped. After 4 years on that truck, still no issues so far. It's better than the delete kit which forces the front differential to turn always, which also puts more wear on the transfer case bearings.
Excellent video. I just had the IWEs replaced on my F150.
Excellent presentation. Thanks very much for that info!
Great video, thank you for the clear explanations on how this IWE system works.
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic video. Pretty sure this is what’s causing my clicking noise, and it looks as though it should be a job I can do!
Great video, replacing these today on my 13' F150
Great video buddy! (Wish you would of showed us how the “broken IWE” worked like how you demonstrated with the new one.
They sound like dragging a trashcan lid when bad. But you'd use the same exact test I used. Wheel off ground, no vacc ..rotate wheel, shaft should rotate (4wd). Apply vacc ..rotate wheel, shaft should NOT rotate (2wd). Do that with vacc pump. If it works ..the repeat with engine running and try switch. If it doesn't work ..it's the solenoid.
Really nice and clean truck. Hardly have any surface rust. Not my 2013 it's seen lots of salty roads. Makes it hard changing parts
That truck came from NY and surprisingly little rust. I feel your pain on the rusted ones. I use 50/50 acetone/atf. Way better than PBBlaster. I also use a torch on stubborn spots.
I recently had both hub assemblies replaced. I told them i feared something wrong in the IWE vacuums line from what i was hearing and from my online research. So I assumed when they replaced rhe hub assemblies they had checked over the entire IWE system. With 2 hub assemblies and my brake pads replaced i paid 1400. Here it is about 2wks later and I am hearing the sound again. Ive parked my truck and am waiting until after Thanksgiving to call my Ford dealership. Hoping their mechanics are a bit smarter than the ones who charged me 1400 not to fix the problem.
You saved me a whole lot of unnecessary time and expense. Thank you!
Glad to help!
At 9:15---The answer is "Relativity". Einstein would be proud of you for your frame of reference.
Lol yeah he gave me a wink
Great initial explanation, thank you!
7:00 very good explanation of how that works. Good video
My truck just started making the grinding noise about two weeks ago I thought it was brakes until I got to reading about iwe. Mine doesn’t grind every time tho sometimes it does sometimes I can drive my truck several times before it does it again. What do you thank it is?? Thanks for the help.
Could possibly be a small vacuum leak.
Jackle61 it was the iwe actuator I changed it out no issues now 👍🏼
Just get your hub bearings change and you'll be okay
I’ve replaced the solenoid and check valve. Still have the noise. Looking under truck moving forward my front driveshaft and passenger axle spins. Next I’m replacing iwes and vacuum lines hopefully all good after that. Thanks for this video
You can pull the vac lines off down at the wheels and plug them. The test if vacc holds from the solenoid. That will tell you if you lines are good. Also, you can use a vacc pump on a short hose to one wheel and see if it locks to the axel when rotating tire. With vacc applied it should spin but NOT the cv axel. Hope that makes sense.
@@jonparkmac yes it makes sense. Before I replace them I’ll check just to see what the culprit was but I figured with all new parts maybe I’ll get another 90k without iwe issues. My lines are kinda dry rotted feeling anyways so for 50 bucks figured what the heck
If I do find a leak in the vacuum lines like many have I’ll wrap the new one in electrical tape anywhere its close
Nice... Good that it fails in the locked as that is important to have and dont hurt much normally.
Good video. I'm now puting on the doorman iwe delete. I've replaced them several times on each side. I hate how crappy they made the iwe
I'm wondering how long mine will last and what actually causes the failure. Looks like the plastic carrier breaks apart.
@@jonparkmac as far as I know they just do. Mine make noise during turns and it sounds like they will partially engage and grand a little bit. I've already replaced them once. And some guys in my f150 group have said they have multiple times. It's a well known failure. Ford's tsb on them said to pull the vacuum hose and cap it. Basically the same as the delete.
Perfect for me.. I have 03 Expedition during a heatwave the solenoid went bad and all of the pressure was released.. I drove around for maybe 3 days hearing grinding noise when I accellerated I did'nt have a clue what was wrong I thought it was my Transmission because it was low on fluid but after putting inn new fluid in the tranny no problems with that only the grinding continued I just ordered solenoid from amazon $22.. waiting to install and see if this corrects the problem if not where did you get the IWE part and what was the cost?..Rock auto is getting ridiculous with shipping cost
If the vaccum solenoid stopped, then it would have just stayed locked and not cause damage .. but if it was partial or sucking on/off could have jacked it up. I got mine on Amazon 45 bucks, no issues over a year. www.amazon.com/dp/B07MWSD94M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_T76NH4HV1JTN2AH0K9D7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is such a good video, well done sir.
Appreciate it man, hope it helped
First off Great video, I just replaced an accuator on my f150 and when I get up to speed around 20mph in my truck it started to make an awful sound like the splines were not meshing.. any idea why this would be? I took it all apart and put it back together again and everything is in properly I believe. Could it be a vacuum leak
Did you do the test with wheel of ground and also used a vacc pump ?
Thanks for this video--a good explanation of how these IWE hubs work. My 2011 F-150 is intermittently making a terrible noise--like dragging a trash can, and I figured out if I switch into 4WD high, the sound goes away. So obviously a 4WD system related problem. Your explanation at the end of the video (ua-cam.com/video/kJDaeANoxPU/v-deo.html) seems to explain what is happening with my truck. I assume my hubs are intermittently failing or losing vacuum causing them to try to engage the front axles. However, since I did not switch to 4WD high, the axles are not actually engaged. So I have a spinning wheel trying to engage with a stationary axle! Yikes! I used a vacuum gauge and confirm I have 22 to 24 pounds of steady vacuum at each hub. So maybe the hubs themselves are bad--like yours in this video. Thanks!
Yeah, that is what sounds like. I looked 5 times trying find that big peice of sheet metal I was dragging 🤘
Took my truck to Ford Service. Both my IWE hubs were bad. One was broken into 2 pieces and the other cracked. All good now. We suspect the hubs were ham fisted by a mechanic who recently installed new shocks and struts. Thanks, again!
Should the truck be in 4x4 or 2wd on the switch when checking for axl spinning?
Front axel doesn't turn if in 2wd, otherwise it'd be 4wd. If it turns in 2wd ..it's not working
Thank you this easy to understand video👏👏👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Jon. I’m having this prob for the second time on my 2018 f150. What I don’t understand is why they seem to be partially working. At low speed on level roads no problem. On an incline at 30 mph or so the rattling starts. Get off the gas and noise stops. Does the vacuum vary under load? I’ve changed the check valve and solenoid and it’s still the same. Any ideas?
Yes the vacuum will change when under load and drops when you step on the gas. It sounds like you have a leak. Did you test it for leaks ?
@@jonparkmac thanks will do
Great video! I've had my 2013 Ford F150 Lariat at 3 different dealerships four times. I used the dealers because of the drive train warranty that is now expired. My front right IWE is giving me a fit. I'm read the Lariats have a special transfer case (BorgWarner) that spin the front drive shaft and CV axles constantly even in 2W drive. Mine are spinning in 2W drive. Vacuum tests are good. Supposedly IWEs are good according to the dealer. Solenoid and vacuum switch are brand new. When I turn slight right on a curved road I can hear a scraping/grinding noise. The noise goes away when I turn back left. Any ideas? Sorry for my long rant.
Glad to help. That vaccum us certainly an issue, but you may have damaged the iwe gears in the meantime, so still might need to replace. Once you get vaccum do a test with wheels off ground and take in and out of 4x. When in 4x ..axel will engage and turn. When not in 4x, wheel should turn .. but not axel. Then take it for a real road test. Good luck!
THANKS Jon . . . I wanted to know more about my IWE Sys. and you answered any question I may have asked. Are you an Engineer ???
My 2017XL with only 15K mi. started to act up last week. I got on it and immed. started to research the probable cause ???
I bought an updated check valve blue/white instead of the factory blk/white from the dealer and in 15 mins I was like new again. Im sure none of the other parts were damaged. Because I avoided the rpm range that was causing it to collide and make the noise until I installed the new valve and hose assembly. I got a spare $17 OEM from the WWW in the glove box too.
The dealer did not pay attention to a word I said and wanted to tear it completely down and replace everything . . . without even looking at it.
Always replace that check valve with 8" hose assembly FIRST . . . unless you drove it like that for too long . . . then ??? Because that is the #1 Most Likely Cause and cheapest fix unles you damaged the system. I got LUCKY.
Jonathan McClure no vacuum leaks for my IWE system. My truck was in the shop for two weeks and it’s still broke. I think my right CV axle might be slightly bent from an accident a couple years ago. Perhaps the CV axle bearing is also bad.
Same issue on my 16 Lariat Fx4. Curious what you are able to find out.
@@ryanmcandrew1839 The dealer swapped my front differential with a used one and the grinding noise went away for a while. The dealer removed my front drive shaft and no noise while driving and the reason why they recommended the differential swap. That is until I went back to the beach to use the 4x4 and the grinding came back. After I got off the sand I unplugged the solenoid to get rid of the noise. Many months later I went on a road trip and my mpg was terrible so I plugged in the solenoid again and to my surprise no grinding noise. It's an aggravating problem with no real solutions that I can find with my truck. Both IWEs replaced, front differential, solenoid and vacuum switch both replaced (twice), vacuum lines checked and hold pressure, and right wheel hub replaced. I hope you figure it out.
Just replaced both IWE’s on 2013 f150. Everything seems fine when going down the road, the grinding noise is gone. Axles are not spinning when In 2wd. Vacuum seems all ok. But when I go into 4x4 the grinding noise is back from the drivers side making my 4x4 not work any ideas what could be the problem? Thanks..
Lift the front wheel off ground and try to rotate it with engine off. It should bind and not slip or ratchet. May have to bind the axel since it can turn with limited slip differential. If the wheel does not stay locked then it means the iwe is not working.
So if there is no vaccum, the truck is engage in 4x4 all the time(is it running in 4 high all the time?) So does this mean that the iwe eliminators will engage my 4x4 all the time? I am new to this Ford system and still trying to figure it out, if you can give me some knowledge about this I really appreciate it.
No, it only means front differential and Axel's are running and not anything else. Just little more wear on bearings and seals and 1,mph gas loss
Thanks for all great video. sorry for my english, I try to find an answer on many many google search but I cant found it, perhaps you have it... I will try to explain my case. On my F150 2007 I changed both Actuator, both check valve, selenoid is fine and I tested presure, all is good, no issue. I can engage as well 4x4 in 4Hi or 4low mode when I am stopped and all is working, but when I try to engage 4HI on the road I hear a grind noise, the vacuum actuator hub try to engage but they are not able to slide in. Like you said there are 2 phases when we put in 4Hi on the road, first phase ( I think ) something engage the front axel, second phase is when the front axle turn at the same revolution from back axle and are synchronized something engage the actuator hub to slide in position. I think my front axle have not the same revolution from the back axle and cannot slide in position. Somebody have an idea why I cant put 4Hi on road ? Do you think that both axles are not synchronized? Thanks !
Do you have to change both actuators? Is there a way to figure out which is actuator is bad? Thanks for the video.
Yep. You don't have to do both. You can check the vaccumm on each wheel, then check if each one rotates with axel when tire off ground. With vaccumm or engine running, the axel should not turn or bind. However, there is now way to check teeth condition unless you take it apart.
What would be the correct way of inserting the cv axle to the iwe? Do you pull vacuum on the iwe and then insert the cv axle? If so, how do you know the iwe gears will line up with the cv axle gears once vacuum is released? Or do you insert the cv axle to the iwe without pulling vacuum and just gently wiggle and align the cv axle to the iwe gear?
The later with no vacuum but I see no reason why you couldn't do it with vac too. The main thing is to carefully fit it all together with no binding and then rotate the wheel with vaccum on and off and make sure it operates correctly.
@@jonparkmac when I had a leveling kit installed on my F150 the shop ruined my IWE, don't know how it happened since they claimed they didn't take the cv out but instead undid the lower control arm
@@818silencer818 they lied because you loosen the arm to pivot it down to make room to get the strut out and you have to allow the cv to come out for it to swing down. If they did not, then there is no way for the iwe to have been disturbed because the axl nut holds it in place
I know because I did it to myself when I installed a lvl kit. What happens if you don't let that out ring mesh with the cv splines .. it crams the ring back into the wheel side of the cv. Now the spring is pushing the ring against the offset cv gear instead of slipping on to it.
Does the 2wd version also have IWE system? Or just 4x4?
No it does not. The IWE is exclusive to engaging the front wheels only.
@@jonparkmac Thank you Jonathan for your fast response. I was researching why my f150 (1998 2wd) was knocking when under a load. Thought this might have been the culprit possibly.
That actually sounds like a spun rod bearing on the engine crank shaft. Hold a wooden broom handle to your ear and touch spots on the engine with it. If the knocking is heard ..spun bearing.
@@jonparkmac Took it to my mechanic. He said "spark knock".
So whats wrong with mine as I try to put into 4 high it will hump in 4 low... is the motor bad on transfer case? Which i have one bought havent put on....
Not sure but is not the IWE. Transfer case is the right place to look, hopefully just the engagement motor
“Great job” ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
That is a great video.
So both axels should not spin at all in 2 wheel drive? I replaced driver side but passenger side axel still spin should I replace? Tnx you can reply
I'd do both. But yes, if axel is turning in 2wd, it's not working.
OK tnx need to go buy passenger side and replace
Just curious why I hear the noise on the driver's side when I replaced driver's side?
Thank you very much Jonathan did passenger video all good now back on the road
With all that damage to the gear ring, how did your needle bearings and CV axle look?
No issues
Im over these. I just ordered iwe deletes for mine
Ordered? You can just disconnect the vacc lines at the solinoid if you want constant 4x on axel
When you put the vacuum hub back on the line will have no vacuum when you start the truck correct? So that wheel will briefly be in 4 wheel drive? Does the vacuum immediately pull it back in to 2WD as soon as the truck is started? I’ve heard of people messing up their 4x4 while installing leveling kits and have services lights come up on the dash.
The check valve up by the solenoid should hold the vacuum on the actuator if there's no leaks. Take your vac pump and attach it to the line at the iwe that supplies vacuum. Pull vacuum on that line and see if it bleeds off. This will let you know if your line or check valve is bad. If all are good shutting off the engine should leave the vehicle in 2wd.
Thank you! Great video.
My 2013 seems fine going straight but if I turn left or right at highway speeds it like a buzz in my steering wheel . I put a camera under it and my CV axles are constantly turning. So it's probably my a vacuum leak right?
Yeah, Axel's should not be turning so vaccum leak, bad vaccum solonoid, or the iwe itself is damaged. Start with vaccum checks.
@@jonparkmac checked vacuum at both wheels and at the solenoid going down the road and it's fine. I jacked the front up with truck running and cv axles didn't spin. But I put a camera under the truck and went down the road and they were spinning. Its driving me crazy. I dropped it off at the shop this morning. Thanks for the reply
Any ideas on a 2023 f150 brand new sounds like I’m driving over a rumble strip. Read a thread about a lot of owners of new trucks that this happens, apparently the 2021 and up are electric actuators and not vacuum? And also only does it when below freezing temps, something to do with the warm up cycle?
Any info would be greatly appreciated thanks!
Boy I couldn't say. With it being new it's under warranty .. so I'd take it to Ford and let them sort it out.
@@jonparkmac ya that’s what I’ll have to do. Apparently tons of people bring theirs in and they change the EIWE and it always does it again.
Thanks for your reply thought and your video really helps men understand how these work thanks
Would this cause a rattle noise in 2wd, and once I engage 4x4 it goes away?? I changed the solenoid and the part that connects lol but sound is still there on passenger side
Try disconnecting vaccumm solinoid and driving in 2wd. If you hear it, then yes.
@@jonparkmac thanks bro - cheers 🍻
I got a questions, I changed mine on the driver side along with the solenoid and the check valve. Everything seems to be fine but the wheel has alot of resistance to turn by hand when in 2wd while the truck is running. The shaft doesn't spin anymore like it used to bcuz the old one was locked in 4wd. And there's no grinding noise. What could it be 🤔
Likely just your break pads touching a little and is normal. You can take the pads out with one bolt if you want to confirm.
@@jonparkmac I think it does. But how do I fix that or what do I do about it? 😂
@@danielcastro8012 just leave it alone it won't be an issue. The brake calipers aren't spring loaded so they don't retract when no pressure. But when your truck is moving, they loosen a little and slip. Don't sweat it brutha.
@@jonparkmac idk man, sounds kinda bad 😬 rotors are drilled and slotted and pads are new. And also I get the slightest push back on the brake pedal when coming to a stop from a very very slow speed.
@@danielcastro8012 if your worried, remove the pads and spin the hub. If it's still not free then it's your bearings or the iwe is not done right. Only way to know is dig into it.
Thanks man!
Happy to help! Since that repair I've had no issues. I always wait a few secs to let vacc load before I put it in gear, just to reduce wear
Solid video thank you
Would have been nice to see how that actuator gear interacted with the hub and axel. Nobody shows that. Take care.
I explain all that first 40 seconds. Some people skip over the intro and miss that part.
@@jonparkmac thanks!
Just curious. Do you know if the two vacuum ports at the actuator end pull in and out when vacuum is applied to either port, respectively? Or is there two ports for some other reason?
Never mind. I did some research and found the 2nd port is simply a vent to atmospheric pressure. I wanted to know if I could connect my vac pump right at the hub assembly for testing since my truck is up on a lift. So I should be able to do this.
So.,. If I deleted the IWE and put in the .. IWE Eliminator part.. Dorman.. or another company equivalent part that would eliminate the vacuum portion of the process and still allow easy switch to 4 wheel
You can do that, but it means your axel and differential and drive shaft will always be turning and wearing. Also drags down another mpg. Just know the trade offs your making.
Is this the same for a 4a tc
I've heard cv axels spin while in 2wd is that true?
I don't know, but seeing 4a is always active to compensate for rear spin in subsecond, I'd say it likely does always turn in front. You can/should test that and see.
@jonparkmac
Am having a rubbing sound on the front left wheel an am trying to figure out what it is
I lift up the truck spin the wheel and axels did spin, then I turn the truck on spin the wheel and axels didn't spin. but then I was filming the bottom of the truck while driving and the axels were spining and truck was in 2wd. Do you have any idea of what could it be I already replace selenoid and check valve
It sounds like it's working properly at the IWE. Just because the CVs rotate when driving doesn't mean the hubs are locked in. For the instant-on feature .. I would expect it to do that. Can't say this is where your noise is coming from. They usually sound like dragging a tin trashcan lid under the truck when the iwe are ground out.
Great vid thx
thank you
Are you available to answer a question, curious how often you read the comments.
Sure am. I monitor these every few days. What's up
I thought the lockout gear stayed on the axle in 2wd and was pushed out to join the axle and hub together in 4wd
Correct. Spring loaded so when no vaccum, pushes ring toward wheel over both axel and hub gears. But with vac, it is sucked back on to axel only. Look at 6:20 where I demonstrate that.
Hi Jonathan McClure have a same a probleme ... i replaced two time the lock and it broke again...
brand new selenoid and hose .. .
the vaccum is OK...
splane is ok ...
bearing no dommage
dont know why
Try replacing the check valve - ua-cam.com/video/rGwEMsriueU/v-deo.html
Not following you. What is splane (spline?) and why are looking at bearings? Did you do the tests with vaccum and make sure it operates correctly? What exactly is your issue.
@@jonparkmac yess spline is very goood and my vaccum
my probleme is the lock is broken all the time
Awesome video
I changed it out but the grinding is still happening
Did you do all the post install checks to make sure it's working? Vaccum and wheel rotate tests I mean. May also want to check your hub bearings.
Jonathan McClure
Thanks for the response
I changed the hub and solenoid. But that still wasn’t the problem. It was the valve lines going to the 4 wheel drive. Thanks again
@@paulanthony8335 dumb
Well, that's not really what the theory of relativity says but I get you. lol.
Delete it... throw in a doorman delete kit.. and you are good to go
What an absolute disaster of an engineering design 😬
Yeah it's quirky. This one is going on 4 years now with no issues yet. I don't know what causes them to fail except people taking off on startup without letting the vacuum activate. The rings are soft metal and if you loose vacuum in the mud/snow it defaults to 4wd, so a few good decisions on an otherwise unreliable idea. Without it ..the whole front differential and CV joints constantly wear which is way more expensive to repair.
Having the default as 4x4 was a dumb engineering decision.
What if they have no vaccum and your are stuck in a hole?
Talk louder
Put them hearing aids in Papaw lol
He says this thing here a lot is that like a whatyoumacallit parts do have names
I sure did and I even have a good name for you .. it's called "jealous jackass". Thanks for watching Cookie Jar!
Another great engineering designed to FAIL by FORD! POS American vehicles...…………...My next one will be a Toyota LoL