Stillmotion: Using a Light Meter to Understand Light for Filmmaking
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2012
- Learn more: bit.ly/2X98VTj
Whether you're just starting out in filmmaking or you're an experienced filmmaker, capturing and working with light effectively is often the most challenging part of the process. Watch this video on using a light meter to familiarize yourself on working with light. Enjoy!
#Filmmaking #Cinematography #Metering #Lighting #Technique - Навчання та стиль
Great explanation. The best video on light meters I've seen on UA-cam so far.
+Matthew Peer i agree!
Damn. This is probably the most concise explanation of light metering I've seen yet! Well done!
This was so helpful, No one has explained it as well as you just did. I just bought a 478 because of this
This video changed my film life forever.
Thank you.
This is one of the best vids on light period.
The best explanation on how metering works!
this video is amazing. thank you so much for making it one of the best explanation videos I have seen about this subject
beautiful tutorial ... you made it very easy to know how it works :) thank you
Wow this is a huge help! Really cleared things up for me!
Definitely going to pick up a light meter soon, and the L-478 looks pretty nice!
This is not just one of the best. It is the best, hands down. You get a subscribe from me be happy to support.
Dude, I'm had a $900 light meter from sekonic a,d it's been just sitting ther. Thank you!! I will now be using it.
sell it to me lol
So glad I found this video. Well explained!
Easy way to understand, thank you!
good teacher, well done
Nice demo. Thank you.
Excellent video! Thanks for making it. :)
Quick question, what shotgun mic are you using? Thanks for the info!
This is, by far, the best How To on how to use a light meter.
Good stuff! Nicely done!
this was golden...
Hats off to you, my guy. This was such a great overview of light meters I've seen in a while. Thank you guys for your time. Also, you look a bit like Casey Affleck. jaja
Well done, very helpful. Thanks
Great tutorial. What about using the light meter with s-log3? Sony FS7 profiles available?
This was very helpful. How about a tutorial on spot metering?
amazing! Thanks p.
It's sad when I learn more from the internet than film school. Save your money folks.
I didn't go to film school, which is why I'm watching this. But isn't 80% of this stuff that any professor at a university film program would expect incoming students to know? Basics of exposure (f stop vs ISO vs shutter speed). It seems like an odd decision to go into a film program without the most basic understanding of how photo/film/video works, so why would faculty spend time on it? Wouldn't that be like enrolling as an engineering major without having ever taken a math or science class in high school?
please make such tutorial with Sekonic L-308DC DigiCineMate also, thank you
So open one stop more for close up interview? Another question, how to measure T top value when I use cine lens?? Thank you in advance
awesome info
The best of its kind. Does anyone know the name of the instructor here?
Amazing tutorial! Excellent... please advise me for choosing the best option to start using light metering between 380, 478, 858? (P.S. I’m using Godox lighting system which is not match with Sekonic that’s why I need to use Sekonic with Godox trigger at the same time to fire lights and meter as well). Is it better to start with 380 to start practicing, later on upgrade it or touch screen of 478 is giving me better and easier opportunity to light meter (except for HHS), or from beginning is better to invest one time and forever on 858? Thank you
mrz 1342 get the L-858D-U. It is the best meter you can buy these days. The best investment I’ve do after lenses. It’s pretty simple to use too and best of all it is future proof!!
Hey Pat, how did you meter the exposure for the dance scene as you were on the steadicam?
Did you have an assistant bring the light meter close to the subject as they were dancing and then pointed the meter towards the steadicam with the dome exposed?
If you want to get from F 1.0 to 2.8 you need additional 3 stops. So you must increase from 100 to 800 ISO and not to 640 as you tell at minute 12:13, right?
Yup! Had me scratching my head, too.
So in typical, If my Key side reads f/5.6 and my fill side reads f/2.8 and background reads f/1.4.... Do I set my aperture at f/5.6, and hope I get the background exposed? Or do I slightly overexpose the Key, to get background. Typical DLSR... Not RED, Arri or A7S. Thanks.
I believe you expose according to your key light, which is the base for exposing the rest, darker lights.
Thanks!
I'm am Kicking myself for not attending you Know workshop :( these videos are SO helpful!!
This is great. But Im having difficulty finding a comprehensive tutorial for creating the custom profile for my C100 mk2 with the L-478D.... anyone recommend a link? I need the tutorial to show how they shoot, setup the camera, etc, everything... not just the part in the computer.
+Peter R Any look with this Peter? I could do with some help too?
+Josh Hutt Not yet Josh. Dropped the idea after a while. Have you had any luck? If I figure it out, I'll let you know. Email me at peter@brylmedia.com
How would you measure a practical light such as a lamp in the BG to make sure it is two stops darker than the subject?
Spot meter (reflective reading, not ambient.)
5:10 - I Don’t understand why you changed from f4 to 2.8
I have the 478 meter, it works great and I love it, but working with a meter for the first time I noticed this: When I match my light to my lens' aperture (let's say 4.0), the result looks overlit. Does anyone have any tips on this? Thanks in advance!
The distance to where you're measuring light to your subject is probably farther that the distance of your camera to your subject
That's a bummer. I didn't know distance had something to do. That means that I will never get a right metering! Lights and cameras have different distances from subjects all the time! Am I not getting something? :(
Let me correct myself I meant the distance might be different from your light to where your metering and where you are placing the subject in relation to the light source. So for example if you stand in front of your light and meter you need to see how far you are from your light because if your subject is placed even 1ft closer to the light or further it will have a different exposure.
I recently have purchased a L-398. I've found some tutorials how to use it on UA-cam etc. It has a High slide, which is clear what it is and how to use it. However, in addition it has a slide set with 11 different slides. Including the Sekonic website, there is no information how to use them. A simple informative tutorial would be nice of you (or anyone who will be volunteer to do this).
Anyone to do this?
Slides are for direct reading of F stop. Each slide corresponds to a range of ISO and shutter speed.
www.sekonic.com/downloads/l-398m_english.pdf
www.sekonic.com/downloads/l-398a_english.pdf
How do you change the shutter speed to T 48 I get it to 50 but can't get it to 48 as I am shooting 24 fps?
You can get the meter to show 48 f/s if you go into CINE mode. The icon on the upper left shows you what mode you are in. Simply select it, and the cine mode icon will be the 5th icon down on the left hand side.
Sekonic I meant the shutter. Not the frame rate. It goes 30 and skips 48 and goes to 50, 60 etc.
I am shooting on 24fps and want my shutter speed to be exactly double that. So 1/48 or do I have to use 1/50 for the shutter. As that is the closest.
Good explanation but shouldn't you be explaining "Cinema Mode Metering" as opposed to F-stop for still photography? This was a tutorial on light metering for film making correct?
I was wondering the same, but then I think I got it: The lightmeter measures in F-stops, the "cinema" lenses are using T-stops which is the light actually reaching the camera, rather than the light there IS around your subject. Not using Tstops is not a total foul for lightmeters, they just measure light, hence the Fstops. We have to do the conversion ourselves if we are working on video. Maybe a future firmware update will add a converter, but it's not much of a deal breaker. You can still use it for film with great accuracy.
+Nτινος Σταματιου I agree that that the conversion wouldn't take much. But lots of meters are capable of reading in T-Stops. That was part of my reason for asking.