Here are a few other reasons to choose an inverter-driven system: tight lot lines - The outdoor unit for single stage is larger and louder. It can't be placed too close to a bedroom window, a neighbor's house, or near a patio (especially in a cooling region). The new rebates may only apply to the inverter models. Reasons to go with a dual-fuel: Budget - installation is usually a few thousand cheaper (but that may even out with the rebates); if you have frequent power outages and use a generator. It may be possible to use an inverter with a generator, but it's easier with a dual-fuel. BTW - if you do not have natural gas service, then definitely splurge for the inverter in a cold weather climate. An electric resistance auxiliary heat strip will add hundreds to your bill, and offset the heat pump savings.
Thanks for the videos, very informative. Your videos got me into the Daikin Fit and furnace setup last month: "Hybrid or Dual Fuel system". Been working great so far. I'm in a colder climate Western Ontario Canada. Heat pump is set to heat up to -10.5C outside temperature. Not pushing it. Afterwards frursnce kicks if temperature goes below -10.5C. Keep the content coming! 😊
Your videos are excellent. I’m in the market for a heat pump the information is very helpful. Still trying to figure out what I need in north central Idaho.
As a homeowner, I want my HVAC system to be affordable to purchase and maintain and most of all reliable. Does that rule out a inverter heat pump? Would a needed repair after the warranty period wipe out any savings realized from efficiency? Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Depends if you’re in a climate where you don’t use it that often then you’ll never break even (think coastal California, maybe 2 weeks out of the year you run it?) but if you’re anywhere hot it will pay for itself. If you’re in a cold climate you definitely want the heat pump to be an inverter for efficiency sake and comfort/quiet and operational capacity
Depends if it's in an air circulation mode or if it's not actually cooling... short answer is yes sometimes because for example the deadband (switchover) normally overshoots and has a delay so if I set the thermostat at 70, it won't start cooling until 72, and won't shut off until 69/68 because it's overcooling for efficiency and to reduce short cycling. It really varies a lot by system because design and features vary a lot
Found our 22yr NG furnace and central air to have a coolant leak. Tech said coolant leak charge was $700 and recharge of R22 was around $1800. So naturally I’m open to finally replacing the entire setup. Was given 3 options. $12k American Standard Furnance and Central air 14.5k for AS furnace and heat pump 15.6k for the electric Fit system. Should I go FIT? Seems like the best from the way it was explained by the sales tech. Concerns I have been seeing while researching fit is humidity issues and having much higher electric bills. Also we sometimes get into the teens and 20’s in winter time but mostly mild winters. We are in Pacific Northwest so only see 80’-90’s around July/ August. 2002 home with not the greatest insulation and windows. 2200sq ft split level. Recommendations? How is $15.6k for the 3 ton fit installed? Rebates end at the end of this month the gas/electric company said today.
You’re asking someone who’s very partial to the fit so I’ll preface it by that, the price seems reasonable for a quality install and just keep in mind the rates vary quite a bit by contractor and region. Idk if I’d worry about humidity too much because they’ll do well with that provided it’s not above 110F, that’s the difference between the enhanced fit and regular fit… the enhanced has heat capacity removal in the summer months in Phoenix / high desert 110F+ temps, when there is also a monsoon season that spikes humidity. The regular fit heat pump doesn’t do well in these temps. Also with regular lows in the 20’s and 30’s this system keeps up without issue, and even when it dips into the teens it will still be able to keep up, especially the enhanced fit. The big benefit of the Fit is it is quieter and the operational costs are lower since it modulates. You’ll especially notice the comfort differences during shoulder seasons because it will modulate and be very quiet most of the time
I just turned down a free single stage heat pump for my home from Southern California Edison. A 4 ton Ducane single stage. I live in the high desert. I’m still hoping to qualify for a heat pump when California gets funding from the inflation reduction act. It was hard turning down the offer from SCE. But I hope to get a heat pump that will not over tax my solar panels.
From a cost perspective free is hard to beat honestly and if you have enough solar to offset your usage and it's better than what you're currently using then that's not a bad option.
How efficient is an inverter system with a thermostat like the EcoBee which only has 2H/2C? I have an ACiQ central ducted Hyper Heat inverter system, and instead of using the included thermostat, we hooked it up to the EcoBee. We've been pleased so far, but curious how much efficiency we're loosing because we're using the 2 stage Ecobee vs the thermostat that came with the unit. Thanks!
I’m not sure honestly when it comes to aciq, there might be some of the thermostat it comes with is communicating but non communicating there’s non difference. All in all it’s probably minor, less than 1 SEER difference is my guess
I just got 2 Bryant inverter heat pumps and air handlers, and they don't seem to be able to reduce the humidity in the house like my old single stage units did. We're in the humid southeast (North Carolina), and upstairs humidity levels are constantly in the 70's. My neighbors houses are much lower. I've had the tech come out and recheck everything, but no luck so far. Not sure what to do. Bryant offers a money back guarantee, and if they can't fix the problem, I might take them up on their offer.
Yikes, that’s surprising, I’m wondering if they’re oversized at all. Is there a setting on their system called overcool to dehumidify? The Daikin fit and most inverters have some settings like this to accomplish lower humidity. This is common on oversized systems that short cycle because they don’t get long enough run times but I would check all the settings and sizing first to confirm what’s actually happening. There’s got to be a relatively simple fix I would think
@@TheHVACDopeShow it's the same tonnage as the old unit, and when it was in the 90's the other day, the unit ran pretty much all afternoon and evening, so I don't think oversizing is a problem. The tech is coming back out tomorrow to do more checks. I was able to get the humidity down today by opening all the doors and windows and getting fresh air into the home.
Hello I'm am actively in the market for a heat pump. We are located in Sacramento where winter are 30 to 60 summers are 90s to 115 degrees. My home is 1300 sq feet single story. We have a 27 year old 3 ton furnace and 2 ton ac. We also have solar. Would an inverter or single stage work best in this scenario
Inverter 100%, especially with the solar. Daikin fit heat pump (as an example, but any variable speed compressor / inverter) could keep up year round in those conditions and give you great performance and not have a need for gas heating. There’s several options depending on what you’re looking to do but I’d definitely go for the inverter you’ll save money in the long run
Dual Fuel? I’m not familiar with gas fired… typically heat pumps don’t use gas, but dual fuel just means you have a heat pump that you then pair with a Furnace so you have both as heating options on cold days
It’s very common it’s called NNN (triple net), all commercial and industrial spaces operate on this type of lease. There’s lots of ways aside from that, closing too many vents, dogs/pets peeing on the equipment, filter changes can be mitigated easily with a maintenance contract but buying nice things for tenants expecting them to be grateful and take care of them just means you’re naive about rentals and human nature. Most tenants don’t even notice or care and they’re staying in the home 2 years or less
@@TheHVACDopeShow Interesting. I was a commercial tenet and was required to have a maintenance contract with an approved HVAC firm and the cost of any necessary repairs were my responsibility, which incentivized me to take care of the equipment. Perhaps residential lessors should incorporate the same model.
ACiQ or AC pro? I’m not familiar with AC pro… I just did a quick google search and found the AC pro system I think you’re referencing and they have units up to 21 SEER2 allegedly
In a pre-existing home that was setup originally with a single stage system, with a 10kw electric backup, one install contractor said they would not advise an inverter system because it ran off of the thermostat, and once the temp was satisfied, and it ramped down, then the farthest run would not receive enough static pressure at the lower fan speeds, creating cold/hot zones in this farthest areas. Yet another contractor said the opposite. I’m trying to decide on a system, but it is incredibly confusing compared to 20 years ago when this system was installed.
Depends on if you have long runs, rooms far away and then again. If the whole system initially was designed poorly that could be the case. Proper amount of supply and returns need to be analyzed. But some of that is if the air circulator in the home ran slow. Not the inverter condenser out side. A slower running condenser outside can go a bit slower or faster and condense the air inside on the evaporator air side to reduce moisture in the home. Find a few others and see what they say. I'm just a diy homeowner spitballing here. Don't mind me.
@@scoobtoober2975 the system worked great with our old single stage system. The home is a single story ranch, so the longest run is 55’ from the handler. That trunk run supplies 4 vents above grade, and two in a finished basement below grade. I can’t speak on the static pressure, but I know my zones were satisfied fine with our old 12 XL 12 SEER 3 ton Trane.
@@toplink It may depend on the size of the vents too. My two ton system has 11 6x14" vents. I think a calc on the supply and return vents and static test should be done Just a inches of water home made test could be done.
I would say that’s not true no, and if you need to increase airflow to that run if you have access to the ducts you can put it dampers at the trunk lines to balance the airflow
at the end of this video, it sounds like your suggesting that single stage systems are more reliable that inverter systems, do in inverter systems break down more or is it just about repair part availability
Repair parts are usually available but don’t stock them on our truck. The truth is single stage systems probably break down more but we stock all the parts on our truck, whereas inverter might be trouble free for 10 years but when the inverter board goes we have to make a trip to the parts house. Just means a longer repair
@@TheHVACDopeShow as inverter systems get more popular this will change. Inverter systems dominate the markets in many countries now. In Australia all new systems are required to use inverters, because of how much more efficient they are (plus the other benefits). I could see federal tax incentives or state laws coming in the US in the near future specifically for new units to use inverters, on top of the existing incentives for heat pumps.
8:59 the tenant should have no role in the maintenance of appliances. It is on you, the property owner to make sure your furnace/heat pump/air conditioner is serviced annually. There's literally nothing the tenant can do to damage the unit other than physically hitting it. Just be transparent, the owner is not paying the power bill therefore you pass the inefficiency onto the tenant.
You must not own any rentals lol? They could let their dogs pee on the condenser (destroys a unit very acidic - seen this more than once) or pee into the ductwork (yes I have seen this too) or close all the vents trying to divert airflow to one particular room thinking this will increase airflow (see this all the time), and that causes an avoidable service call and lots of issues.
A dirty air filter can cause many costly issues especially in the cooling season. You're stating the owner should be having the system checked annually which I agree but you need to change the air filter every 1-3 months (or more in special circumstances). If you're using a higher rated 1" air filter, you're adding a lot of static pressure to the system which will cause damage to the blower, airflow issues in heating and cooling, and if the indoor AC coil freezes up due to poor airflow, it's going to cause water damage below to the furnace. This can add up to $1,000+ in repairs just because a higher rated air filter is installed. Of course all of this liability and whatnot should be spelled out in your lease with the owner of the property and I'm not subscribing blame on either party but knowing how much a small action like changing an air filter can change the entire system is worth many thousands of dollars.
Yes and no… not in defrost mode heating, but no different than single stage. If it’s not calling for anything the fan won’t be on. But the condenser fan motor will kick on to cool the inverter board this is normal
I have a ACIQ extreme heat. There is no temperature sensor in the wall thermostat. There is one in the air handler and the remote. If you use the follow me feature it uses the remote and runs normal but if you run without the remote the fan is constantly on.
Here are a few other reasons to choose an inverter-driven system: tight lot lines - The outdoor unit for single stage is larger and louder. It can't be placed too close to a bedroom window, a neighbor's house, or near a patio (especially in a cooling region). The new rebates may only apply to the inverter models. Reasons to go with a dual-fuel: Budget - installation is usually a few thousand cheaper (but that may even out with the rebates); if you have frequent power outages and use a generator. It may be possible to use an inverter with a generator, but it's easier with a dual-fuel. BTW - if you do not have natural gas service, then definitely splurge for the inverter in a cold weather climate. An electric resistance auxiliary heat strip will add hundreds to your bill, and offset the heat pump savings.
Thanks for the videos, very informative. Your videos got me into the Daikin Fit and furnace setup last month: "Hybrid or Dual Fuel system". Been working great so far. I'm in a colder climate Western Ontario Canada. Heat pump is set to heat up to -10.5C outside temperature. Not pushing it. Afterwards frursnce kicks if temperature goes below -10.5C.
Keep the content coming! 😊
Right on thanks! Glad you’re enjoying it :)
Your videos are excellent. I’m in the market for a heat pump the information is very helpful. Still trying to figure out what I need in north central Idaho.
Anything dual fuel and low ambient rated is probably best
As a homeowner, I want my HVAC system to be affordable to purchase and maintain and most of all reliable. Does that rule out a inverter heat pump? Would a needed repair after the warranty period wipe out any savings realized from efficiency? Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Depends if you’re in a climate where you don’t use it that often then you’ll never break even (think coastal California, maybe 2 weeks out of the year you run it?) but if you’re anywhere hot it will pay for itself. If you’re in a cold climate you definitely want the heat pump to be an inverter for efficiency sake and comfort/quiet and operational capacity
I understand the Inverter Heat Pump is going to run longer but is it normal to blow room temperature air for 15-20 minutes.
Depends if it's in an air circulation mode or if it's not actually cooling... short answer is yes sometimes because for example the deadband (switchover) normally overshoots and has a delay so if I set the thermostat at 70, it won't start cooling until 72, and won't shut off until 69/68 because it's overcooling for efficiency and to reduce short cycling. It really varies a lot by system because design and features vary a lot
Found our 22yr NG furnace and central air to have a coolant leak. Tech said coolant leak charge was $700 and recharge of R22 was around $1800.
So naturally I’m open to finally replacing the entire setup.
Was given 3 options.
$12k American Standard Furnance and Central air
14.5k for AS furnace and heat pump
15.6k for the electric Fit system.
Should I go FIT? Seems like the best from the way it was explained by the sales tech. Concerns I have been seeing while researching fit is humidity issues and having much higher electric bills. Also we sometimes get into the teens and 20’s in winter time but mostly mild winters.
We are in Pacific Northwest so only see 80’-90’s around July/ August. 2002 home with not the greatest insulation and windows. 2200sq ft split level.
Recommendations? How is $15.6k for the 3 ton fit installed? Rebates end at the end of this month the gas/electric company said today.
You’re asking someone who’s very partial to the fit so I’ll preface it by that, the price seems reasonable for a quality install and just keep in mind the rates vary quite a bit by contractor and region. Idk if I’d worry about humidity too much because they’ll do well with that provided it’s not above 110F, that’s the difference between the enhanced fit and regular fit… the enhanced has heat capacity removal in the summer months in Phoenix / high desert 110F+ temps, when there is also a monsoon season that spikes humidity. The regular fit heat pump doesn’t do well in these temps. Also with regular lows in the 20’s and 30’s this system keeps up without issue, and even when it dips into the teens it will still be able to keep up, especially the enhanced fit. The big benefit of the Fit is it is quieter and the operational costs are lower since it modulates. You’ll especially notice the comfort differences during shoulder seasons because it will modulate and be very quiet most of the time
I just turned down a free single stage heat pump for my home from Southern California Edison. A 4 ton Ducane single stage. I live in the high desert. I’m still hoping to qualify for a heat pump when California gets funding from the inflation reduction act. It was hard turning down the offer from SCE. But I hope to get a heat pump that will not over tax my solar panels.
From a cost perspective free is hard to beat honestly and if you have enough solar to offset your usage and it's better than what you're currently using then that's not a bad option.
How efficient is an inverter system with a thermostat like the EcoBee which only has 2H/2C? I have an ACiQ central ducted Hyper Heat inverter system, and instead of using the included thermostat, we hooked it up to the EcoBee. We've been pleased so far, but curious how much efficiency we're loosing because we're using the 2 stage Ecobee vs the thermostat that came with the unit. Thanks!
I’m not sure honestly when it comes to aciq, there might be some of the thermostat it comes with is communicating but non communicating there’s non difference. All in all it’s probably minor, less than 1 SEER difference is my guess
I just got 2 Bryant inverter heat pumps and air handlers, and they don't seem to be able to reduce the humidity in the house like my old single stage units did. We're in the humid southeast (North Carolina), and upstairs humidity levels are constantly in the 70's. My neighbors houses are much lower. I've had the tech come out and recheck everything, but no luck so far. Not sure what to do. Bryant offers a money back guarantee, and if they can't fix the problem, I might take them up on their offer.
Yikes, that’s surprising, I’m wondering if they’re oversized at all. Is there a setting on their system called overcool to dehumidify? The Daikin fit and most inverters have some settings like this to accomplish lower humidity. This is common on oversized systems that short cycle because they don’t get long enough run times but I would check all the settings and sizing first to confirm what’s actually happening. There’s got to be a relatively simple fix I would think
@@TheHVACDopeShow it's the same tonnage as the old unit, and when it was in the 90's the other day, the unit ran pretty much all afternoon and evening, so I don't think oversizing is a problem. The tech is coming back out tomorrow to do more checks. I was able to get the humidity down today by opening all the doors and windows and getting fresh air into the home.
And yes, there is an overcool setting, but I haven't used it because I just manually lowered the temp a degree or two, and it didn't help that much.
Hello I'm am actively in the market for a heat pump. We are located in Sacramento where winter are 30 to 60 summers are 90s to 115 degrees. My home is 1300 sq feet single story. We have a 27 year old 3 ton furnace and 2 ton ac. We also have solar. Would an inverter or single stage work best in this scenario
Inverter 100%, especially with the solar. Daikin fit heat pump (as an example, but any variable speed compressor / inverter) could keep up year round in those conditions and give you great performance and not have a need for gas heating. There’s several options depending on what you’re looking to do but I’d definitely go for the inverter you’ll save money in the long run
Are you familiar with these newer gas fired heat pumps? I saw something out of AHR and CMPX conventions. Any insight if so?
Dual Fuel? I’m not familiar with gas fired… typically heat pumps don’t use gas, but dual fuel just means you have a heat pump that you then pair with a Furnace so you have both as heating options on cold days
www.energy.gov/energysaver/absorption-heat-pumps
If this is what you’re referring too no I’m not familiar but will look into it, thanks!
How would a tenet be likely to fork up an inverter system? By not changing filters at recommended intervals??
I have never seen a contract for a rental property where the tenant is required to perform maintenance like that.
It’s very common it’s called NNN (triple net), all commercial and industrial spaces operate on this type of lease. There’s lots of ways aside from that, closing too many vents, dogs/pets peeing on the equipment, filter changes can be mitigated easily with a maintenance contract but buying nice things for tenants expecting them to be grateful and take care of them just means you’re naive about rentals and human nature. Most tenants don’t even notice or care and they’re staying in the home 2 years or less
@@TheHVACDopeShow Interesting. I was a commercial tenet and was required to have a maintenance contract with an approved HVAC firm and the cost of any necessary repairs were my responsibility, which incentivized me to take care of the equipment. Perhaps residential lessors should incorporate the same model.
Great content!
My title 24 requirement is 18 & up seers! Does AC pro
X series offer in 4or 5 ton in 18 seers?
ACiQ or AC pro? I’m not familiar with AC pro… I just did a quick google search and found the AC pro system I think you’re referencing and they have units up to 21 SEER2 allegedly
On a variable speed inverter system, how is the communication to the compressor unit? Add some wires?
Depends on system but they use the existing 2 wire condenser typically
Do you recommend inverter in South Florida?
Yes for sure
If the heat pump specs "Low Temperature Heating 17°F DB, 15°F WB air entering outdoor coil, 70°F DB air entering indoor coil." What is DB and WB?
Dry Bulb / Wet Bulb...
In a pre-existing home that was setup originally with a single stage system, with a 10kw electric backup, one install contractor said they would not advise an inverter system because it ran off of the thermostat, and once the temp was satisfied, and it ramped down, then the farthest run would not receive enough static pressure at the lower fan speeds, creating cold/hot zones in this farthest areas. Yet another contractor said the opposite. I’m trying to decide on a system, but it is incredibly confusing compared to 20 years ago when this system was installed.
Depends on if you have long runs, rooms far away and then again. If the whole system initially was designed poorly that could be the case. Proper amount of supply and returns need to be analyzed. But some of that is if the air circulator in the home ran slow. Not the inverter condenser out side. A slower running condenser outside can go a bit slower or faster and condense the air inside on the evaporator air side to reduce moisture in the home. Find a few others and see what they say. I'm just a diy homeowner spitballing here. Don't mind me.
@@scoobtoober2975 the system worked great with our old single stage system. The home is a single story ranch, so the longest run is 55’ from the handler. That trunk run supplies 4 vents above grade, and two in a finished basement below grade. I can’t speak on the static pressure, but I know my zones were satisfied fine with our old 12 XL 12 SEER 3 ton Trane.
@@toplink It may depend on the size of the vents too. My two ton system has 11 6x14" vents. I think a calc on the supply and return vents and static test should be done Just a inches of water home made test could be done.
I would say that’s not true no, and if you need to increase airflow to that run if you have access to the ducts you can put it dampers at the trunk lines to balance the airflow
at the end of this video, it sounds like your suggesting that single stage systems are more reliable that inverter systems, do in inverter systems break down more or is it just about repair part availability
Repair parts are usually available but don’t stock them on our truck. The truth is single stage systems probably break down more but we stock all the parts on our truck, whereas inverter might be trouble free for 10 years but when the inverter board goes we have to make a trip to the parts house. Just means a longer repair
@@TheHVACDopeShow as inverter systems get more popular this will change. Inverter systems dominate the markets in many countries now. In Australia all new systems are required to use inverters, because of how much more efficient they are (plus the other benefits). I could see federal tax incentives or state laws coming in the US in the near future specifically for new units to use inverters, on top of the existing incentives for heat pumps.
8:59 the tenant should have no role in the maintenance of appliances. It is on you, the property owner to make sure your furnace/heat pump/air conditioner is serviced annually.
There's literally nothing the tenant can do to damage the unit other than physically hitting it.
Just be transparent, the owner is not paying the power bill therefore you pass the inefficiency onto the tenant.
You must not own any rentals lol? They could let their dogs pee on the condenser (destroys a unit very acidic - seen this more than once) or pee into the ductwork (yes I have seen this too) or close all the vents trying to divert airflow to one particular room thinking this will increase airflow (see this all the time), and that causes an avoidable service call and lots of issues.
A dirty air filter can cause many costly issues especially in the cooling season. You're stating the owner should be having the system checked annually which I agree but you need to change the air filter every 1-3 months (or more in special circumstances). If you're using a higher rated 1" air filter, you're adding a lot of static pressure to the system which will cause damage to the blower, airflow issues in heating and cooling, and if the indoor AC coil freezes up due to poor airflow, it's going to cause water damage below to the furnace. This can add up to $1,000+ in repairs just because a higher rated air filter is installed. Of course all of this liability and whatnot should be spelled out in your lease with the owner of the property and I'm not subscribing blame on either party but knowing how much a small action like changing an air filter can change the entire system is worth many thousands of dollars.
Do inverter heat pumps blow air all the time they are on?
Yes and no… not in defrost mode heating, but no different than single stage. If it’s not calling for anything the fan won’t be on. But the condenser fan motor will kick on to cool the inverter board this is normal
@@TheHVACDopeShow good to know, thank you! I installed a MrCool Central Ducted system and noticed it runs a lot more than the Trane 2 stage I had.
I have a ACIQ extreme heat. There is no temperature sensor in the wall thermostat. There is one in the air handler and the remote. If you use the follow me feature it uses the remote and runs normal but if you run without the remote the fan is constantly on.
@@kevinhera3331 That is different. Thanks for the info!
Basically like every other industry, milk 🥛🍼 the customer dry for minimal gains over time, unless you're the military.
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