With that said, nothing beats opening a panel to see the VFD say "GND FLT" and you know immediately to break out the megger, or an undervoltage alarm that stopped the unit from running during a brownout. I think the majority of the hate for variable (or even contactor two-stage) comes from companies installing the absolute cheapest controls they can get.
@@afridgetoofar1818 The more complicated systems help by giving you diagnostic information, and some of the problems with more complicated systems come from installers using cheaper controls. I would add ignorance by the installer and poor training of the homeowner as problems as well.
@@got2liv4him Trane uses high-quality controls in their variable speed systems and the inverters have short-circuit protection so the inverter locks out instead of letting itself get fried and gives out an alert code.
This is a good video for those of us needing to replace our older, worn out systems. Of the three types, we were able to eliminate the variable speed. Your words were well delivered. Nice job.
Id say installing antique single speed single stage systems after 2023 is out of desperation because you only have that type available due to back logs of the newer seer2 or that’s my understanding!
I recently evaluated the cost benefit of two stage vs single stage heat pump replacing a single stage ac unit and single stage gas furnace. The energy savings was such that the payback against the higher initial cost was 11 years. MUCH too long in my mind considering the life expectancy is about 15 years. I got prices on variable speed units but the price difference was double again that of the two stage machine. Also, the repair costs of variable speed units are astronomical due to the proprietary circuit boards that are typically the weak point for reliability. Availability of these boards can be an issue if a quick turn around on repairs are desired. I’m told that these boards are not usually carried in the truck due to the high cost unlike capacitors that are currently the most common failure. Ultimately, I went with a single stage heat pump with a two stage natural gas back up. With this, I got a reliable, more energy efficient system (heat pump), at the lowest installed cost with the lowest repair costs.
@@raindogs451 Incorrect. If you can run in 1st stage longer than you could with just 1 stage, you'll be saving energy since your system will be operating at peak efficiency more often. In addition, it is easier for the compressor to start up as well.
@@hj8607 This only applies to older Trane two compressor XL18 and XL20i systems. That system is no longer made. Everyone else either uses the Copeland hot gas bypass compressor design or Carrier and company for their highest end Infinity systems from around the 2000s used a Bristol compressor that either ran one or two pistons to adjust capacity, which was an utter disaster for reliability (switched to the Copeland compressor sometime ago). Infinity Greenspeed uses a fully variable compressor.
@@raindogs451 have to disagree. We replaced our original single-stage equipment last year and found that it provided greater comfort. No more warm spots and our home feels cooler with the new system with the stat set at 71 than it did with the old system with the stat set at 68. In fact 3/4 of us feel that when the new system is set to 70 is too cold. I know it’s debatable whether 2-stage saves $ but in my experience it absolutely offers greater comfort.
I have the top Trane multi stage, variable speed furnace basement unit. LOVE IT. In an OLD 1,500 sf drafty home, with a bedroom and baby room built onto the house decades after the house was built. The addition vent work was done poorly and improperly and impractical to R&R given I'm 70, single, on a tiny fixed income. This fan runs very slow but is always on to help circulate cool or warm from the rooms that have better ventilation to the 2 rooms that have poor ventilation from ducts not well designed or installed! This is huge, it works, and when retrofitting an old drafty home that needs new windows you cannot afford yet need a furnace/AC, I'd say this is mandatory. With the minus 16 cold snap here, this unit worked GREAT and the fan normally runs slow and almost silent even when actively pushing warmed air - but at minus 16 this baby KICKS ON THE AFTERBURNERS!!! The old type furnaces cannot adjust this well to need and when they are between cycles, they do nothing to circulate the warm room air to the cooler room. If you have a home like mine, spend the extra money and get what I got. Mine came with a 10 year warranty and I won't even live that long, so................... :)
A properly sealed single stage. Then, thermo image a year later. Checking for leaks. And lots of insulation and a couple of properly placed trees. This has always been my solution for my rentals in the great state of Texas
Last year we installed a VS system into our 120 year old, 1,500 sq ft craftsman cottage in humid, Houston TX. It made the home dramatically more comfortable. It does not run absolutely continuously as you say. It will shut off when it requires less than 25% of capacity to hold target temperature. It holds target humidity perfectly, all the time. One other advantage to VS systems, is they don't have a huge current draw on start-up. This makes it possible to run them from a standby generator. Our 4T VS system start-up surge is just 12A(vs 90A+ for the old system.) We can run our entire home from a 9.5 kW invertor generator. Which we might need to do after a hurricane strike.
I chose a two stage unit because I wanted to oversize my HVAC, (to deal with those occasional heat waves or cold snaps) and didn't want short cycling and comfort issues . When the target temperature is close (within 2 to 3 degrees) my unit uses less energy and cycles less. When the heat load increases or the room temperature is too far from the target temp. the unit kicks in to full mode, seems to reduce overall kwh usage. It's like having two separate systems, one small and one large where as the smaller, less energy consuming unit works until the larger more energy consuming unit is needed.
Excellent commentary. I would add as pro’s for multistage systems. 1. Better for zoning 2. No more hard starts so you dont have to have a huge generator or add soft starts to the unit. 3. Variable speed heat pumps can go down to lower temps (
I have a variable speed furnace with variable a/c. The biggest advantage not mentioned is how quiet the system is. 90% of the time you can’t hear it operating inside the house. Outside is a low hum. I have the best Trane thermostat but it doesn’t show the variable operation under usage. It only shows heat or second stage heat. On cool it shows cool or second stage. For what these systems cost I would have thought it would provide more granular information.
Very nice video. I was in HVAC field in the military. So in base housing, you always saw system failures because people wouldn't take care of anything, and you would see homes with windows open with the A/C running. I think the installing company is by far the most important these days. I have an American Standard system and the only problem I had was the motor for the fan failed at 17 years. The technician came out at 7pm to put in a fan motor and I did help him a little. He said basically the same things you are pointing out. The tach told me I had about 7 years of life left on my heat pump and to start saving up for it. He said he would go with a Carrier as well. American Standard has been pricing themselves out of business lately. Goodman was also mentioned, and they are getting better than they used to be. I would consider the SEER rating of a system too. Especially if you live in the Gulf coast area around Alabama or Texas.
@@beammeupscottsp7952 What videos by GrayFurnaceMan. He recommends only using the old style spun floss filters if it is only 1" thick. Buy a separate room air filter to use in problem area.
I bought a Carrier knock off Arco Aire. It is veritable but to 6 district speeds. So simpler freq drive. But it runs almost continuous so it dehumidifies continuous. I recommend this style unit. 40 years experience in the industry
When the fan runs constantly your evaporator works just like a water pad on a humidifier and puts all that water back in the house. I have seen a 5% drop in humidity when letting fan turn off between cycles, try it!
@@kenthomas4668 Ken I agree with you if you have a single speed compressor. But the question was about multi speed compressors. My Arco/Carrier unit had a compressor inverter that would run the compressor down to 5000btu. The evaporator stayed at saturated temperature so continued to dehumidify. The condenser and evaporator fan also slowed down and sped up to maintain evaporator and condenser temperature/pressures. What you say is true with a single speed or possibly a 2 speed. But the newer inverter style compressor, the evaporators will not give up the condensation back to the air.
I recently told my TStat I had a single instead of dual stage. See in 2 stage, the fan is slower in 1st stage. Problem, air flow wasn't high enough and we had hot spots. So instead I experimented and tuned the CFM of the fan to my single stage. This resulted in no hot/cold spots, ideal humidity, and good run times. Still early in testing phase, but so far so good.
Here in Phoenix Arizona I think the single stage works best at cooling the entire house without hot spots. The muti-stage systems take forever to cool and leave hot spots here. Plus the air is so dry here that I dont want the AC to make it any dryer.
Yeah, I found a $6k system 96% efficiency Tempstar with an ECM that’s tuned and running all the time does better than two stage ac and furnace. And half the price.
If one sizes their AC system for slightly over the average summer day temperature, rather than the hottest possible days, perhaps a single stage would be the most efficient and the fan would be running most of the time. I live in MN and I tend to run my fan continuously (from the thermostat), especially in the summer and during the sub-zero times in the winter. Keeps the house temps more uniform.
I live in an area where AC is needed for about 3.5 mo./yr. 11 yr. ago, when I replaced my 47 yo systems, I chose simple single stage units. The total cost for 2 complete systems installed with 10 yr. transferrable parts and service warranty was $6200. That included 5" filter boxes and TXVs replacing piston valves. To avoid the short cycling you described it's very important that the units be correctly sized for the space. If you buy units that are too large thinking they will air condition "better", you will have those issues. It's MUCH better to have units that are on the small side for the space than too large. Allowing a little increase in thermostat "swing" will solve some of those short cycling problems.
I've been in countless homes with undersized AC systems. I have NEVER been in one that had an oversized system that caused problems. If you have trouble with humidity with an oversized system it is because it is not set up properly. The laws of physics dictate that an oversized system will dehumidify better than an insufficient system so if that's not the result you're getting it was installed incorrectly. Usually the setting for drying the coils after a cooling cycle is defaulted to ON to get better SEER ratings. You want that setting OFF.
My home has a Trane XV18 variable speed system. It does in fact turn off once temp and humidity settings are reached. Six years old, it has always worked this way.
I have a small older home, in Kentucky, and in 2015, I had all the windows replaced, and had a Carrier variable speed system installed. Since then, the system has pretty much paid for itself with the savings in utility bills. It keeps the house very comfortable, and does it quietly. It wasn't cheap, but it's been a life saver, because I have COPD, and by keeping the humidity down constantly, I can breathe much easier.
You need to look at multizone systems if you want the most comfort and reduced run times. Problem most HVAC installers are not up to doing the more detailed design and installation required. The cost per zone is about $500. Most installers have a cut and go approach.
@@wildcaveman5310 if you have pressure equalizer in a loop back you can keep the pressure equalized. My two multizone (3) single speed systems have been for running 22 years with no issues with a pressure equalizer. It's part of design details that need be understood by a good installer/designer.
@@larkincrutcher3424 bypass dampers can function but are inherently inefficient. Also very careful planning needs to be done to not overcool the coil leading to liquid in the compressor. Yes it can be done but that doesn’t make it a good design.
You are absolutely right about the variable speed system and humidity. I once tested this with a window unit, rewiring it so the fan only ran when the compressor was running. This gave the condensate time to drain between cycles. Setting it on the same temperature as before, the humidity level was noticeably lower and the room felt cooler. Used less electricity too. Having said that, I have found the most cost-effective HVAC setup to be a single stage system and ceiling fans
I don't know about other brands, but Carrier and Bryant both default to a 15 min fan off drain period when dehumidification was called for at any point during a cycle. That's for variable speed. So if it's a hot day the system may run near 100% at minimum fan speed and modulate fan and compressor speed to maintain something like a 40F coil. Once setpoint is reached the compressor and fan will turn off for 15 min before resuming continuous fan circulate. If it's a less demanding day but humid, the system could run at a lower 40% output and even lower speed. It will still stop the fan after temp setpoint and drain. My main issue with the Bryant variable speed is that when it's trying to dehumidify, the fan is running at a crawl. My upstairs gets no air and downstairs gets cold. I don't have any zoning unfortunately to make this work better. I just have to dampen at the registers and increase the minimum cooling cfm or change dehumidify mode fan speed from normal to high.
I bought a 10K Midea U shaped window ac to cool half my house. It's variable speed and super quiet even on high. It runs most of the time ramping up and down and it will shut off completely if it's cool enough. The thing is a beast easily cooling four rooms including a kitchen, living room, family room, and dining room. And again super quiet. I don't know how long it will last but so far so good. We have an old Trane central ac but the electric bill just kills me in the summer. I think this will be cheaper to run, but we're not quite into summer yet.
Same applies to geothermal heatpump. I just replaced a single stage with a two stage. Heat is definitely more even throughout the house. One really nice side effect is much quieter operation most of the time and better air filtration. Humidifier works better too. Can't wait to see its performance in air conditioning mode.
Great video, very basic explanation of a confusing topic. Really liked your auto comparison, makes it easy to understand. Thanks for sharing. My AC is 14 yrs old and has a leak. I decided to replace my 4 ton one stage unit with an upgraded 2 stage unit.
I would like you to make a video about the features that are available on ac units. You mentioned a blue UV light in one of your videos... this one? I dunno. At any rate, where I am they're all car salesmen and you can't believe anything they say and it's virtually impossible to get an apples to apples comparison. Your videos have helped SO MUCH. I really appreciate everything that you're doing. I've shared your videos all over the place. You are the best of UA-cam.
I live in an area where the potential for AC use is year round with 9 months of continuous cooling. I got a VFD 3 ton unit and I would never go back to a single speed unit. It was at least $50 a month in savings. The value is completely based on where you live and your house.
I live in Florida so humidity is an issue with comfort in and air conditioned space. My A/C when out at my old house. I went from a 12seer to a 17.75seer two stage system. The two stage system did run longer but it controlled the humidity so you could run it a degree or two hotter and get the same comfort. It also dropped the power bill by about $30-$40 a month. My new house (still in FL) has a cheap builder's grade A/C but since it was sized to less tons per square foot than the older house, it runs frequently enough to keep humidity in check. And since the new house has better insulation and double pained glass, the power bills are about the same between the two house (1600sq/ft on the old house, 2800sq/ft on the new house). When the current system bits the dust, I will be replacing it with a 2 stage on the new house too. I am hoping the extra air flow will help the "hot spot" in the computer room/office and over all drop my power bill again.
I have a Bryant, 5 stage compressor, variable speed fan/blower each, it does on/off. The fans will run after compressor turns off to dehumidify. I live South Louisiana, high humidity, It is the most confirmable system ever had.
None of that has been my 33 year experience. In theory, all of this makes perfect sense. But on more than one occasion I have jumpered a 2 stage system without telling the customer (for fear of a placebo effect) and returned later and unjumpered them. Both before, and after, I took both temp and humidity readings; and I queried the customer about their comfort. The results were indistinguishable. I have personally jumpered systems when there was no 2 stage stat, and have seen many units jumpered on service calls. You know how many people, in 33 years, have reported an awareness of the change in their comfort? ZERO. It is my strong belief and experience that the greatest determinant in comfort is unit sizing. I do not find, based on my testing, that peaks and valleys in comfort, short cycling, longer run time in 1st stage for better humidity control etc, to be any real issue or benefit of note. The HVAC industry sells lots of bell and whistles; ECM, SEER Brand etc. The potential permutations are numerous. But of all those bells and whistles, many of which have real merit, "2 stage" is one I think performs best in sales literature and text book theory. I don't find the argument for life span, utility costs, or comfort to be compelling in the real world. Get a higher SEER first. I see 2 stage as not being the home run it's cracked up to be,
Yeah, I’m trying to weigh overall what I meed it to do (keep my house at 70 F, at the lowest cost overall including monthly bills and new systems every 15 yrs). The lowest cost system due to easier to repair and replace seems more cost effective to do the same task.
Variable speed was worth every penny in my house. I live in a high humidity area and it helps keep my indoor humidity comfortable by running low all day long.
@@smokeysmith1282 I live 20 miles north of New Orleans. In a the low land marshes. My nest has a humidity sensor and I have a few other ones. Ones on a weather station with indoor and outdoor stats.
As a retired Bryant territory manager , bravo. Good unbiased explanation of what’s available out there. I loved selling the 698B with the 50% unloading scroll. I guess it’s gone now. Been out of the game for a decade.
We love our Bryant 880TA 4-ton drive VCA blower furnace, Bryant 189BNV048 Air conditioner, Bryant Connex thermostat and AprilAire filtration system and humidifier for year round usage here in Denver. I love the 5-stage AC unit as it spends a majority of it's time in 1-3 stages and runs a continuous fan to make sure all areas of the home are about the equal temperature. I am now a Bryant dealer.
Great informative video, thank you! Here are my opinions after 21-years in the HVAC industry, from service to sales: The AC system is not only removing heat from your home but it is also dehumidifying. However, it's ONLY dehumidifying when it's running. This is why a two-stage or more system does a much better job of dehumidifying which makes you more comfortable in your home and I recommend them if you have ranch style home. The problem with staged AC-system is if you have a 2-Story home, because multi-stage AC's run lower, longer. They don't run in high long enough to help push the heavier, denser air upstairs, thereby you can end up with higher temps upstairs than you would have with a single-stage AC system. Unless you have a zoned system for up and down, I recommend single-stage AC systems to my customers and if you live in a ranch then you will love the extra comfort of multi-stage ac systems. Price of course will be the deciding factor in all decision-making. And please understand that with the higher and higher efficiency ratings mandated by the EPA on the HVAC manufacturers, these units don't last 20, 30 or 40 years anymore. Get a 10-Year Parts & Labor warranty if you can and then cross your fingers after it expires. Finally, make sure the company who installs the new equipment is going to still be in business for the next ten-years it's under warranty too!
We did variable speed. Added returns in each room upstairs..problem solved. Definitely a consideration if u able to change design or cost of zoning controls is a factor.
Have always had 2 ton 3 ton 2 stage systems, but do to pandemic supply issues had to go with a single 3 ton unit which has provided quite comfortable temperatures and humidity removal. Although I am not a HAVC person, in my opinion, I think that proper sizing is a very critical aspect when selecting a heating or AC unit.
"Proper sizing" generally means bigger equipment is worse for both temps and humidity which is the route you may have went here. (Obviously, sizing depends on the square footage of the home, climate, insulation values, etc). Also, going with a DC, ECM fan motor also helps in this area too. With the great efficiency gained in electricity costs, u can now turn your indoor fan to run 24/7 or to cycle on every 15 minutes for more even home temperatures.
I recently had a variable (64-stage) 4-ton Lennox system installed in my 2500 sq ft, 5 bedroom, single-story Florida home. However, it does NOT stay on all the time, as I'd expected. It turns out that the air handler does not have variable fan speeds. It simply starts, ramps up to 100% and then ramps down when it turns off. It does this throughout the day, usually running for about 5 minutes, stopping for 5 minutes and repeating the cycle. The only time the system ever really stays on for prolonged periods is in the evening when the thermostat is set to bring the temp down several degrees. I've tried to get some support from the company who installed it, but the techs tell me that it's operating as designed and no one really seems to understand how to configure the thermostat that they installed with the system. The thermostat is a Lennox iComfort M30, which is notorious for having software glitches from what I've read online. I found it to be misconfigured by the installer - the condenser type was not set correctly (it's a 4 ton unit and it was set for 2 ton) and it can only be set for single-stage or dual-stage. Apparently one must have the high end S30 thermostat for it to communicate with the condenser. I have no earthly idea of how the variable condenser can know what stage to operate in... I'm assuming it has its own logic, but honestly, it always sounds like it's just on or off... there is little difference in the sounds it produces. Frankly, I'm dreading my first electric bill with this system as I know it can't be operating at its most efficient. I have given serious thought to just tossing the M30 as the app doesn't even work right (it often says that there's a poor WiFi signal, even though both the thermostat and the phone have the highest possible signal level). I am considering getting an EcoBee instead in the hopes I can stop this constant short-cycling. Any thoughts on this?
Sounds Like you were sold a Bill of Goods by an unqualified Dealer. Get the Factory Rep involved. Don't Give up. Balls to the Wall on this one my friend!
I upgraded to a variable speed 5 ton carrier heat pump, propane furnace dual fuel system. Cost me around 9k including installation. 2500 sq ft, single story house. I am very happy with it! Hardly ever notice it's running and it does turn off, usually in the evening. Heat pump reaches its limit around 10-12 degrees then the furnace takes over. On average I'm saving $20 a month on electric and only fill once every 3 years on propane as appose to annually before.
We had a Bryant variable speed furnace and AC installed in Minnesota. The blower ran 24 x 7, but almost always at a very low and very quiet speed. The temperature was very uniform during the winter and summer. It was drastically better than the old single speed furnace and AC. When the AC was running it would alternate between “cooling” and “dehumidification” on the thermostat. When the system alternated between “cooling” and “dehumidification”, it got rid of the excess humidity without making the house feel too cold. We moved to Florida, where heat pumps are used for AC and heating, plus there are air handlers in the garage. Is there a variable speed HVAC heat pump system? Can a heat pump system alternate between “cooling” and “dehumidification”? There’s also whole house dehumidification that could be added which is supposed to remove humidity better when the outside humidity is high, but the outside temperatures aren’t very warm, like in the upper 60’s or low 70’s.
Lennox makes the El18vpv heat pump.mic you use their S30- thermostat it will run variable speed. Mitsubishi also makes the SUZducted variable speed heat pump by far the most quiet unit ever made.
Bryant makes a variable speed AC and a Rotary 5-stage AC system. They also offer these units in HP models. You can use an AHU instead of a furnace but personally, I would still buy a furnace as you will need heat strips for emergency heat, just in case as AUX heat. Two stage 80% two-stage furnaces are really inexpensive in Florida because very few people buy them. You can probably score a smoking deal. You can have humidification 24/7 on this furnace or AHU and offer the best cooling. I prefer the 5 stage system because it is 25%, 40%, 65%, 80% and 100% of cooling modes and will change as the Bryant Connex thermostat will control. The fan will run constantly and as can be increased and decreased to support humidification. You can run 350 CFM per ton of cooling. I am not sure if your home has one or two HVAC systems. The goal is to run from 72-75 degrees around 45-55% humidity. AprilAire has dehumidifiers that can be hooked into your return air ducting and it will pull the humidity down further, which will feel much cooler. I hope this helps. Bryant and Carrier are the same brand but the Bryant Evolution is the matching Carrier Infinity. You can get straight AC or a HP in either model and brand. If that does not work for you, Daikin/Amana also has a variable speed system that is also amazing for a reasonable price. Please comment, if you have any questions and I will get back to you as soon as I can.
MN is fun to heat/cool. 100+ degrees with dew points in the upper 60’s to lower 70’s in the summer. Winter brings -25 to -35 not factoring wind chills. It’s crazy
I have had two stage Heatpump system that replaced an old single-stage gas A/C for 4 months and experienced both heating, cooling. I also have a new single-stage gas A/C on other side of the same home that was installed before the heat pump 2 stage system and I can make out the difference post install. It is the best. I no longer have humidity issues in the home. It is night and day more comfortable than a single stage. They are both Trane systems.
I went from a single stage to a inverter variable system, Daikin VRV Life. It broke in 18 months requiring the outdoor unit to be replaced AND it took 30 days with 6 trips to figure out what was wrong. Also i've had humidity problems so I had to install a whole home dehumidifer to keep humidity below 50 percent. It sits at 58 percent in the summer despite running all day. Also like he said in the video it runs 16 hours a day it hovers just above set temp making you think its not able to cool properly. So whats more efficent? running 19 hours a day at 1.5kw OR running for 8 hours a day at 4k watts and you set it for 72 degrees and it gets to 72 degrees (not 73-74)? that's 32kwh a day vs 28 kwh a day, at .12 cents a kwh where I am, thats 50 cents a day savings, times 30 in a month or 15 dollars savings. Now add in the whole home dehumidifer and your energy savings is moot powering it and the cost of it.
I tell people that those variable speed compressors are great until you need to repair them. Parts are expensive and most HVAC techs don’t have the training to diagnose the problem.
Have a Trane variable speed system installed about 6 years ago, my electric bill went from $194 a month down to $118 a month. Although due to rise in electricity prices now, my electric bill is now is $177 a month. Just love the Trane Home software on my android phone, shows me the daily and monthly temperature history back a full year as well as average temp for any given month. Don't notice any excess humidity in the house ever, even when we get a full week of 90 degree days.
I'm not sure if it's been mentioned already, but it doesn't make much sense to say that a variable speed system doesn't remove as much humidity, since the surface tension on the evaporator can only hold so much water. It has to drip off, and while the evaporator may rarely if ever get dry, it should still remove just as much water, if not more.
As someone who worked as a tech and installed many units of different grades. My next unit will be variable speed. They cost more but in my opinion are worth it. The unit only runs as hard as it needs to. I live in NW Alabama (Hot and muggy) I put a one ton heat pump in my workshop My bill was $34 in August and I figure about $5 of that is lighting.
I install the AmanaGoodman 2 stage and it’s very good. Also install a lot of Gree Flexx would suggest you look at it as a very good cost vs value option. Variable speed outdoor but single speed indoor. Uses any thermostat and qualified for tax credit.
Here in Phoenix Arizona we dont get much humidity so its not an issue plus the air is so dry here the more the 2 stage blows the more uncomfortable my sinuses are. I actually have to put humidity back in the air here. I like the single stage in the hot desert.
I have a houseboat. I just had an air conditioning company install the carrier two-stage 17-seer heat pump. All electric. 3-ton. The dealer told me that a 3-ton would be more than efficient. It is not. Our 1999 house walls are 1" thick plywood with no insulation in the walls and the windows are single pane. Keep in mind there are several windows on a houseboat. When the houseboat was built in 1999 they installed a 3-ton train air handler heat pump unit, single stage. We did buy the boat 9 years ago and it has never been sufficient. It always struggled to get down to 74° on a day with the outside temperature being roughly 80 to 85 degrees. The carrier just installed is a 3-ton and has 2 speeds on the indoor fan motor. Both of those are so low that it doesn't push out the cold air as much as we needed them to. My question is it was just installed 4 days ago and we are not pleased with it. I looked online and I was very impressed with the infinity carrier 18VS. We do have hotspot areas in the houseboat. I am considering the 4-ton infinity 18VS. Since this unit that we have now was installed 4 days ago and I will be contacting the installing company to upgrade to a 4-ton because he told him several times that a 3-ton will do the job. I am concerned about him asking for a lot more money for the 18VS infinity unit upgrade because basically, he would be installing an air conditioning unit 2 times. I don't mind paying more for the 4-ton 18VS but at the same time, I don't want to be paying more in labor costs because of their mistake. They are basically going to have to install the 2nd unit for free. I'm hoping someone can tell me what is the dealer cost for both of these units. The indoor unit that they installed is product #FV4CNB005L00EEAA model#FV4CNB005. The outdoor unit is product #25HCB636A0031030, model #25HCB636A310. I want to pay this contractor the difference between both of these units. I just don't want to pay them twice for installing the correct-sized unit when they should've got it right the 1st time.
One of the things he did not mention is multi-zone mini-splits normally operate as variable speed because the variable number of inside evap units needing to run at any given time.
Got myself a variable inverter mini split and I am quite satisfied. I use it at 40% capacity for higher dehumidification and at 110% for extra cooling. Both are without any time limit which is the selling point.
@@rufflesinc Some units are designed to run above rated capacity. For example, our Maytag IQ Drive runs from 40% up thru 118% So, our 3 ton system can run like a 3.5 ton system if circumstances call for it. I don't know why they just don't call it a 3.5 ton system that runs from 20% - 100%.
I would add that yes a two stage or variable is more and may not get your return it has to do more than money. A two stage or variable system helps with comfort and for some the extra cost is worth it.
Agreed. Along with temp/humidity comfort, there is noise comfort. I've lived in places where the TV volume needed to be adjusted to the on/off cycles of single stage systems.
How does using a single speed compressor with a variable air handler compare in terms of efficiency and comfort? I am finding tons of videos and info on 2-speed and variable compressor systems but nothing on a single speed system with the newer premium/variable air handler
Thoughts on a single stage condenser with a two stage gas furnace? My biggest concern is the humidity. Since installing new insulation in attic and new roof, the amount of humidity is noticeably higher. The most recent estimate I got he said I didn't need to get. 2 stage or variable.
Old low pressure systems r22 ran for 20+ yeas, single stage piston no problem. Low on charge for some time. But not bad. It was loud outdoor unit. 410a with high pressures when txv is closing down when ducts are having problems or filter and adds to self destruction more often. 2 stage inverter can ramp down during high pressure cases where txv is clamping down. Let me know if this is way off. 2 stage gas furnace makes sense too, high blower and low for either ac or heat.
the common issue in my little town: most of the homes are 100ish years old. They had various upgrades as things became available. ff to now and its been retrofitted with central air/heat initially in the 60's and updated furnaces as they wore out or got cold air added- the common issue for almost all of the houses is the conditioned air does not make it to the upstairs or rooms furthest away from the unit. There are vents there but nothing comes out of them. The basement gets ice cold, most of the downstairs receives a sufficient supply. Blocking vents just makes the a coil freeze up. Mine has a huge unit i dont know the btu but I am not only speaking about my house. Is there a fix that does not require replacing or adding units to the houses? In my case I believe the unit has plenty of conditioned air to give but the restrictive ducts dont deliver very far so it gets dumped into the basement to prevent the A coil from freezing up.
Here’s where I’m at with this, I know if you have the money a fancier system is great. However, they are a lot more expensive to repair, not to mention the cost difference to start with. For that reason, I won’t even install a variable speed system unless the customer has tons of money and can afford it. But to each his own on this matter.
I went from a 2 ton single stage to a 3 ton variable stage and I don't regret it. It kept my my house alot cooler and it dropped my electricity bill almost $150 month. That was in a 1400 sq ft home in 2016. I did have it financed which cost me around $200 a month, so with the energy savings I was essentially $50 a month. I bought my next house in 2021 which had a 3.5 ton single stage AC and the end of the year I replaced it and got a 5 ton variable. I'll probably never get a single stage AC. I'll get a two stage before I ever consider single stage.
My variable compressor is chugging away, efficiently and quietly satisfying demands, especially during this year’s heat waves. That is in my house. Commercially, a slightly different system can use large variable output compressors that are additionally staged in order to satisfy demand. Regardless of application, control systems are the crux of design (including retro-fits) and must be carefully chosen for best return on investment.
Added notation has us all aware of cost of utilities our systems are subject to in sometimes complex ways. While Return On Investment underlies many considerations, achieving maximum ROI must include examination of many facets, sometimes almost laughably including ‘newer’ practices, such as frictionless magnetic crankshaft bearings. However, controlling HVACR systems to accommodate rapidly changing energy pricing structures. Not only must we consider our basic rate, but other elements such as time of day usage, and ‘demand’ rates may easily affect what we pay. For example, a n additional startup of a compressor that does not have ‘soft start-up’ hardware, may trigger a demand rate for an entire month, regardless of how long that load runs, even if for just a few minutes. Reactively controlling systems is best left to electronically controlled systems, with computer interface for the operators, be they a single homeowner or a commercial building operator, technician, supervisor, manager or owner. Teamwork matters.
I once had a HVAC crew tell me that I should leave my blower on 24/7. I had a 5ton unit for a 4000sqft home in Michigan. Other then having to replace my large filters more often, I did notice at least a more equal heating/cooling effect. Downside, during cooking smelly foods (like stirefry), it distributed the smell faster and all over the house, equally. As far as power consumption, was told it didn't burn more power, running the blower motor, then running a 60watt bulb. From the consumer assumption side, it seemed reasonable. During heating months, after the house temp was "satisfied", the blower would push the warm air left behind after a cycle out to the house. Same for cooling. Running/cost wise, never noticed the difference if it save more money or not, but at least it was more pleasant.
We have a 20yr old single stage unit in a two story home. Because our house has hot and cold spots we run the fan 24/7 in the summer months even if the ac isn't running just to move air. This probably isn't ideal but until we get a replacement unit it's the best we can do. Doors and windows were just replaced
I have installed 2 stage units since 1987 and everyone loves them , overall life is as good or better than most units . Fly by companies and techs don’t know how to operate single stage and are completely lost on anything with more than 2 wires
God Bless You ❤ Cowgirl has learned a ton from your video and now because of you have the knowledge to move forward in what i need to choose for a new Electric Heat Pump Air Conditioner..... Southeastern Indiana ❤
I got a two stage Lenox 16 SEER and saved around $80 or $90 monthly, here in South Florida gets pretty hot and HUMID, after 8 year compressor fail due sudden voltage increase , it burn also the motor fan but since the unit had warranty, Lennox sent compressor, motor fan without charging one cent. Only had to pay labor .Manny technicians does not like two stage, but you will save lot of $ and i would say after 5 or 6 years the unit gets pay for itself .
Conventional main unit with a mini split suplemental based on load calc.works well in my experience.sensible heat ratio residential is 70 % so the unit parred with the mini will give you a lower cost with same humidity control, just make Shure you do the load calcs.sensible and latent.
I’ve had all types, but now have a variable speed. I like the fact that it keeps the house exactly on temperature, but it is hard to get used to the fact that it n ver shuts off.
Great video!! Just a quick question would 2 stage be better for a house which has less optimal insulation? Parts of the house has cold spots and half of the second floor is above garage and is usually colder during winter and warm during summer. Any thoughts?
I sell either two-speed or inverter/variable VOLUME (of refrigeration) in Florida due our humidity. The inverter/ volume can be programmed to a set % of humidity. This is great feature for health and comfort.
I also installed an economizer, with it’s own thermostat. So I can run it with or without the A/C. It works really well bringing in cool night air all night with the A/C off.
@@lmeredeemed5043 In as much as it replaces inside air with outside air, yes, but that's where the similarity ends. No windows or doors need to be open, and the outside air is passed through the system filter before being discharged through the HVAC registers. It's more akin to the fresh air damper on a car HVAC system.
He’s right and i agree with it all. Those houses feel stale and the air isn’t comfortable-ppl who live in them are usually old and don’t care. It kind of reminds me of the old days when like old ppl especially Italians or polish ppl don’t open their windows in NY because they didn’t want to clean dust off of all the Chinaware and Nick nacks in the house. So this time period I’m talking about nobody had A/C even if they had money-they just didn’t waste money on it for 2x weeks of hot weather a year plus the nights get cool and a lot of ppl would open windows at night to let in cool fresh air to sleep. I live in Florida now and I’m a builder & you can’t open windows at night cuz it’s 80 humid degrees out-so i know a bit about what this guy is saying. I’ve seen the variable speed brand new units in freshly built homes or freshly remodeled homes or apt complexes grow mold with in a month or 2. I don’t recommend them to anyone -I’ve seen nasty stuff happen and it’s not healthy for this part of country and i don’t even think it’s good for up north-the air in the house seems stale. The 2 speed is worth the money ppl-you will save a lot on electric and make the extra cost back pretty quick. Same goes for the pool. You want the same. If you just stick a single speed in vs 2 stage on pool it’s easy an extra $100 a month electric difference. If you use a variable speed pool pump don’t set it too low in RPMs because it won’t really clean the pool it’s moving water too slow and ppl don’t realize the bad stuff in the pool is in the top 6 inches of water and you want to remove that layer over and over to keep it safe. A clear water pool doesn’t mean it’s safe. It can have bad bacteria in that top 6 inches. So AC unit and pool pump will have same issues if RPMs are set too low-it equals stale not healthy air or water. But definitely get 2 stage and save money and it will last longer. You will make money back quickly. And on pool pump you can set RPMs of the motor so you can make it so it acts like a 2 stage or make your own settings of a w stage & have it kick higher every couple hours to skim top layer off fast then kick down to low speed for awhile. We should have that type of control on our ac units on an app so you can set speed of motor for different parts of day or according to weather.
I think it also depends on the type of insulation and age of the house, newer sealed houses would benefit from variable or multi stage systems. My house is not sealed like a new house, so i sealed and insulated the best i could, installed a higher seer system, and a whole house dehumidifier. I use the ecobee enhanced to run the AC and dehumidifier. I added some ecobee remote sensors to keep the temp more level through out rooms.
Why do you say the “blower is always running” at 9:03 referring to variable systems? I have a carrier infinity system and located in Georgia. My fan is set to auto, should it be set to on? My home isn’t large but I do have spray foam and new windows.
I am retired after 45 years in the business and have settled on this approach. Use a 16 seer single stage and a high efficiency mini split in your main living area. Set your 16 seer main system 2 degrees lower than the mini split and it runs 80% of the time. I currently live in a builder grade 1800 square foot house in North East Pa. and have never had a winter bill over 175 and 90 in the summer for a 100% electric home.
I live in Arizona and have a similar situation. I have a 2100 square foot house. With a 2 ton mini split that runs 100% on solar during the day and a five ton heat pump. My bills are very good. It's the only way I'd do solar as the pay back is only a couple years.
Yes! Adding a split system for a back bedroom and middle bedroom. Around $2,300 and 23 SEER. This is in opposition to a new central system for around $11,000 -$15,000 and 18 SEER. Then I need to run the entire system to cool, or heat the back rooms for sleeping. Plus I have solar panels so I can keep my older 12 SEER system longer, based on cost to run. I could add returns to the back room to promote more air changes, the cost quoted was stupid expensive, in excess of adding the split system by a factor of 2.5. Plus I’m installing the split system by myself. It’s not hard, especially since I got three quotes for installation only, not including system cost of $2,500 - $3,000.
In the tropical country where I live, the majority of air conditioners are inverter units (I.e., variable speed) due to their higher energy efficiency in a climate where the cooling season is 12 months of the year. Even kitchen appliances (e.g. refrigerators and even microwaves) are inverter systems.
My heat pump is variable speed for the compressor and outside condenser fans, but it works on a regular single-stage thermostat. I can hear it ramp up and down so I'm guessing its modulating based on the coil pressures or something.
I installed a single-stage heat pump for my 2,300 sq. ft. ranch-style home. While there are a few cold spots at night due to the blast , overall, I’m satisfied with its performance. I currently pay 16 cents per kilowatt-hour to my electric company, with an average monthly bill of $225-thanks to that Texas heat! However, by adding solar panels to my rooftop, I’ll not only benefit from the panels acting as a radiant barrier, reducing my cooling costs by around 20%, but the solar system itself will bring my total monthly energy costs down to about $130. That way, I’m able to enjoy the best of both worlds-energy efficiency and lower bills.
I like what you say.. 1 have a 2 stage Copland system… this is the only way.. it runs on the low side but then.. I can drop the temp 6 degrees in 1 hour .. No single stage could ever do that..
I have a variable speed setup for air and heat and it DOES turn off completely if not needed. Seems some systems stay on 100%, some don't. Mine is a Lennox.
Compressor doesn't need to shut down to shed moisture, in fact when it does shut off most of the moisture on there will just evaporate back into the air. As long as the coil temp is below the incoming return air dew point, it will continue to collect more than it gives off and keep draining away. Which is basically always on a DX system.
" minimal difference in initial cost" that's really surprising to hear. I'm getting quotes for variable systems that are over doubling the single speed system quotes. I'm talking 10k vs 26k type of different which is pretty a damn huge difference imo. I want the variable speed, but I was hoping for like 15-18k not 26k.
@@hobblyjig that’s insane. Mind you, my system was installed in fall 20, and I’m in the Midwest so not sure what the current market conditions are like, or how they compare to you locally. At the time, for the 4 ton gas furnace and a/c choices I was given between a 13 seer single stage ranged from about 10.5 and 13k for the variable speed. Now, I did pay about $17k total for the project because they were also installing a whole new duct system (doing a whole-house renovation essentially), the old system was a heat pump with electric heat so they had to run gas, new line set, everything. But on paper there was really only about a $2500 difference between equipment cost on the two systems. To me that’s minimal in the big picture considering the comfort and convenience of one over the other imho, but maybe he was able to make up some higher margins on the extra work, I don’t know. That’s not to say I didn’t have some outrageous bids, also, but the key difference was finding a small local installer that doesn’t have 40+ fancy work trucks running around town. That’s been my experience anyway.
@@srobeck77 it's my opinion from what I see here in CA. Ducting is super important. I know what I'm talking about, not just talking out my ass, I'm a C20 licensed contractor with hundreds of happy customers
@@LX-cg1oi ducting is always important no matter where u live and is only 1 of several factors, but isnt the cause of 80% of probkens. It just isnt, sorry to say
Whenever I get a house built, I want the most consistent temperature and quietest operation. One of the best things about variable speed systems is that you can crank it down to 68 degrees on a 102 degree day and not cry at your electric bill.
I had to do a double-take when I looked at the electrical sticker on my neighbor's condenser. Whereas starting amps on a regular system is very high, the starting amps on variable speed compressors is nothing because they just start slow and speed up. Even the running amps was crazy low!
I got one of thos mini-split systems variable speed for the whole house. My concrete pad was in my back yard and the onld box unit was so loud everytime it turned on we built a fence around it to block some noise. My mini-split unit was super quite. It took a while to get use to how the air is though. Because i got use to having full blast cold air from a single stage unit just blasting cold air off and on, but with a variable speed you get mildly cool air continuously as it reaches your desired temp. An that can be confusing if its working right or not. It only gears up super cold air if the temp change requires it.
One of the main benefits of a Variable speed system is humidity control and when set up and sized properly it should work better than a 2-stage system. The variable systems will shut off if there isn't a demand. We install 2-stage and variable Carrier / ICP almost exclusively around my area. When it's 95 degrees and 80% RH the variables will out perform the 2-stage.
We got a variable system in our old house and I remember the day they installed it and turned it on it seemed like the house temperature dropped quickly, but it wasn't the temperature it was the fact it had sucked out all the humidity that made 76 degrees seem like 65. Our summer utility bills went from about $280/mo to about $150 a month. It was crazy how much of a difference it made.
@@cadamham in NC we regularly get 90 degrees with 75% humidity in summer and it can be 80+ degrees and 90% humidity at 3am. and thats going to get far more common and worse the next 5 to 10 years
This is all great info! I live in Colorado and have a two-story home with one furnace in the attic and one furnace in the basement. I decided to go with two-stage furnaces on both levels. And to pay for that two-stage AC upstairs. It works out awesome that way. The upper unit does all the work in the summer and the lower unit does most of the work in the winter. I only wish I would've opted for a 90% efficient furnace in the Basement. I went with 80% in the attic because it gets so cold up there in the winter I was afraid it might condensate in the PVC. You probably have the best info on UA-cam. I'm signing up just to follow you 🙂
80% units are far superior and you probably just need a little larger furnace in the basement to overcome the temperature and a VCA blower motor to push that hot air up to the upper levels of the home. I own an HVAC business that also does insulation upgrades. A high insulation factor in your attic allows for a smaller furnace on the lower portion of the home. It is very inexpensive to upgrade but makes a huge different in cooling, heating, sound deadening and critter deterrent. High-efficiency furnaces are rarely worth their cost.
The Condensate Water may Freeze in the Winter in the attic, not Condensate! That is the worst case for too cold an attic, unless you have Spray Foam insulation in the Roof Joist, then the temp will not go to freezing in the South Eastern Zones, don't know about the North.
A two stage (unloading scroll) tends to be the best compromise. You get a two stage system so it’s either 100 percent or 60 percent but don’t have the complexity or cost of an inverter. I put a two stage heat pump with two stage gas furnace and it’s the best all around system. I’m the winter when it’s mild I run the heat pump so I don’t have that blast of heat every time the heater comes on. But when it gets too cold or it’s really rainy so the heat pump is always defrosting, it locks out and we start with the furnace on low stage and that tends to take care of 99 percent. But when we had that winter in the teens, that second stage kicked in and it worked great.
Can you make a video covering mini-split systems and your thoughts with them. Definitely cool systems and very efficient with the DC inverter compressor.
I'd add the mechanical, moving parts, compressor, evap fan, condenser fan, all get more damage or wear from starting or stopping so the two stage system, with longer run cycles, would preserve the systems moving parts. The inverter (continuously running) system, on the other hand, is ...continuous... and I suspect, do not have evidence, that sometimes this is more wear than that caused by frequent on-off cycles. Based on the informed explanations of this gentleman, I think smaller homes, those with less ideal insulation, in hotter areas, the two stage system would be the sweet spot, including or not including cost differences.
Every unit has different sensible and latent parameters and this could explain the difference between variable and 2 stage with moisture removal. A blanket statement that one does better than the other may be true for the units looked at. I would suggest a better understanding of equipment selection on the front end. John, PE
What does variable speed refer to? There are two main components, the compressor and the fan that pumps the air thru the house. Is it slowing down both, the compressor and the fan?
Running the fan only would just equalize the humidity across entire living space. Equalized humidity would ever so slightly increase the humidity nearest the A/C return air duct so the next cooling cycle would remove a tiny fraction more humidity.
If you want reliable comfort invest on a whole house dehumidifier. It will be easier and cheaper as long you have the space for the additional equipment. If you don’t have, Lennox make a dehumidifier that you plug at the end of a regular machine. So it makes it taller but should fit most preexistente spaces when replacing.
I have a variable system and it saved me 250 to 300 during the summer ... I totally disagree with the humidity but I live in Arizona! It's never feeling wet ....
I like the simple systems. Single speed, less controls to fail.
With that said, nothing beats opening a panel to see the VFD say "GND FLT" and you know immediately to break out the megger, or an undervoltage alarm that stopped the unit from running during a brownout. I think the majority of the hate for variable (or even contactor two-stage) comes from companies installing the absolute cheapest controls they can get.
@@ShutupimslowIn English, please.
@@afridgetoofar1818 The more complicated systems help by giving you diagnostic information, and some of the problems with more complicated systems come from installers using cheaper controls. I would add ignorance by the installer and poor training of the homeowner as problems as well.
@@got2liv4him Trane uses high-quality controls in their variable speed systems and the inverters have short-circuit protection so the inverter locks out instead of letting itself get fried and gives out an alert code.
@@davidperry4013 I was translating shutupimslow's comment for afridgetofar1818.... and lol about Trane's high quality controls...
You not only know what you're talking about, but your presentation is first class. Thank you.
This is a good video for those of us needing to replace our older, worn out systems. Of the three types, we were able to eliminate the variable speed. Your words were well delivered. Nice job.
A quantum leap backwards!
Id say installing antique single speed single stage systems after 2023 is out of desperation because you only have that type available due to back logs of the newer seer2 or that’s my understanding!
I recently evaluated the cost benefit of two stage vs single stage heat pump replacing a single stage ac unit and single stage gas furnace. The energy savings was such that the payback against the higher initial cost was 11 years. MUCH too long in my mind considering the life expectancy is about 15 years. I got prices on variable speed units but the price difference was double again that of the two stage machine. Also, the repair costs of variable speed units are astronomical due to the proprietary circuit boards that are typically the weak point for reliability. Availability of these boards can be an issue if a quick turn around on repairs are desired. I’m told that these boards are not usually carried in the truck due to the high cost unlike capacitors that are currently the most common failure. Ultimately, I went with a single stage heat pump with a two stage natural gas back up. With this, I got a reliable, more energy efficient system (heat pump), at the lowest installed cost with the lowest repair costs.
2 stage in AC will save no energy, it is primarily for comfort, and that itself is highly dubious. 2 stage is largely smoke and mirrors.
@@raindogs451 Incorrect. If you can run in 1st stage longer than you could with just 1 stage, you'll be saving energy since your system will be operating at peak efficiency more often. In addition, it is easier for the compressor to start up as well.
@@hj8607 This only applies to older Trane two compressor XL18 and XL20i systems. That system is no longer made. Everyone else either uses the Copeland hot gas bypass compressor design or Carrier and company for their highest end Infinity systems from around the 2000s used a Bristol compressor that either ran one or two pistons to adjust capacity, which was an utter disaster for reliability (switched to the Copeland compressor sometime ago). Infinity Greenspeed uses a fully variable compressor.
After warranty repairs KILL ROI.
@@raindogs451 have to disagree. We replaced our original single-stage equipment last year and found that it provided greater comfort. No more warm spots and our home feels cooler with the new system with the stat set at 71 than it did with the old system with the stat set at 68. In fact 3/4 of us feel that when the new system is set to 70 is too cold. I know it’s debatable whether 2-stage saves $ but in my experience it absolutely offers greater comfort.
I have the top Trane multi stage, variable speed furnace basement unit. LOVE IT. In an OLD 1,500 sf drafty home, with a bedroom and baby room built onto the house decades after the house was built. The addition vent work was done poorly and improperly and impractical to R&R given I'm 70, single, on a tiny fixed income. This fan runs very slow but is always on to help circulate cool or warm from the rooms that have better ventilation to the 2 rooms that have poor ventilation from ducts not well designed or installed!
This is huge, it works, and when retrofitting an old drafty home that needs new windows you cannot afford yet need a furnace/AC, I'd say this is mandatory. With the minus 16 cold snap here, this unit worked GREAT and the fan normally runs slow and almost silent even when actively pushing warmed air - but at minus 16 this baby KICKS ON THE AFTERBURNERS!!! The old type furnaces cannot adjust this well to need and when they are between cycles, they do nothing to circulate the warm room air to the cooler room. If you have a home like mine, spend the extra money and get what I got. Mine came with a 10 year warranty and I won't even live that long, so................... :)
4 months later are u still alive
Be nice!
Money better spent on INSULATION!
Variable speed was recommended for my heat pump so that it can run all the time for both cooling and heating. Works pretty well.
variable speed blows away even dual stage
Just had you guys install a 4 ton system in our home. They did a great job and the unit was installed skillfully.
A properly sealed single stage. Then, thermo image a year later. Checking for leaks. And lots of insulation and a couple of properly placed trees. This has always been my solution for my rentals in the great state of Texas
Last year we installed a VS system into our 120 year old, 1,500 sq ft craftsman cottage in humid, Houston TX. It made the home dramatically more comfortable. It does not run absolutely continuously as you say. It will shut off when it requires less than 25% of capacity to hold target temperature. It holds target humidity perfectly, all the time.
One other advantage to VS systems, is they don't have a huge current draw on start-up. This makes it possible to run them from a standby generator. Our 4T VS system start-up surge is just 12A(vs 90A+ for the old system.) We can run our entire home from a 9.5 kW invertor generator. Which we might need to do after a hurricane strike.
Because that four ton system is drastically oversized and the VS system is operating at the correct capacity to remove moisture.
@@Modernhvacllc Here in South Texas 4T on this size and age of home is dead common. Not considered oversized at all, given the summer heat.
This what I hear of modern VS systems. Thank you for sharing.
Where in houston
@@CCCC-tq8yo The Heights
I chose a two stage unit because I wanted to oversize my HVAC, (to deal with those occasional heat waves or cold snaps) and didn't want short cycling and comfort issues . When the target temperature is close (within 2 to 3 degrees) my unit uses less energy and cycles less. When the heat load increases or the room temperature is too far from the target temp. the unit kicks in to full mode, seems to reduce overall kwh usage. It's like having two separate systems, one small and one large where as the smaller, less energy consuming unit works until the larger more energy consuming unit is needed.
Derp
Nope wasted money
Excellent commentary. I would add as pro’s for multistage systems. 1. Better for zoning 2. No more hard starts so you dont have to have a huge generator or add soft starts to the unit. 3. Variable speed heat pumps can go down to lower temps (
I have a variable speed furnace with variable a/c. The biggest advantage not mentioned is how quiet the system is. 90% of the time you can’t hear it operating inside the house. Outside is a low hum. I have the best Trane thermostat but it doesn’t show the variable operation under usage. It only shows heat or second stage heat. On cool it shows cool or second stage. For what these systems cost I would have thought it would provide more granular information.
for me quiet is not a concern
Very nice video. I was in HVAC field in the military. So in base housing, you always saw system failures because people wouldn't take care of anything, and you would see homes with windows open with the A/C running.
I think the installing company is by far the most important these days. I have an American Standard system and the only problem I had was the motor for the fan failed at 17 years. The technician came out at 7pm to put in a fan motor and I did help him a little. He said basically the same things you are pointing out. The tach told me I had about 7 years of life left on my heat pump and to start saving up for it. He said he would go with a Carrier as well. American Standard has been pricing themselves out of business lately. Goodman was also mentioned, and they are getting better than they used to be. I would consider the SEER rating of a system too. Especially if you live in the Gulf coast area around Alabama or Texas.
We just a 4 ton unit installed. It comes with a 1 inch slot for filter size 18 30 1. Is merv 8 good for it, can we use merv 11 of needed?
@@beammeupscottsp7952 What videos by GrayFurnaceMan. He recommends only using the old style spun floss filters if it is only 1" thick. Buy a separate room air filter to use in problem area.
I bought a Carrier knock off Arco Aire. It is veritable but to 6 district speeds. So simpler freq drive. But it runs almost continuous so it dehumidifies continuous. I recommend this style unit. 40 years experience in the industry
When the fan runs constantly your evaporator works just like a water pad on a humidifier and puts all that water back in the house. I have seen a 5% drop in humidity when letting fan turn off between cycles, try it!
@@kenthomas4668 Ken I agree with you if you have a single speed compressor. But the question was about multi speed compressors. My Arco/Carrier unit had a compressor inverter that would run the compressor down to 5000btu. The evaporator stayed at saturated temperature so continued to dehumidify. The condenser and evaporator fan also slowed down and sped up to maintain evaporator and condenser temperature/pressures. What you say is true with a single speed or possibly a 2 speed. But the newer inverter style compressor, the evaporators will not give up the condensation back to the air.
I recently told my TStat I had a single instead of dual stage. See in 2 stage, the fan is slower in 1st stage. Problem, air flow wasn't high enough and we had hot spots. So instead I experimented and tuned the CFM of the fan to my single stage. This resulted in no hot/cold spots, ideal humidity, and good run times. Still early in testing phase, but so far so good.
Here in Phoenix Arizona I think the single stage works best at cooling the entire house without hot spots. The muti-stage systems take forever to cool and leave hot spots here. Plus the air is so dry here that I dont want the AC to make it any dryer.
Yeah, I found a $6k system 96% efficiency Tempstar with an ECM that’s tuned and running all the time does better than two stage ac and furnace. And half the price.
If one sizes their AC system for slightly over the average summer day temperature, rather than the hottest possible days, perhaps a single stage would be the most efficient and the fan would be running most of the time. I live in MN and I tend to run my fan continuously (from the thermostat), especially in the summer and during the sub-zero times in the winter. Keeps the house temps more uniform.
I live in an area where AC is needed for about 3.5 mo./yr. 11 yr. ago, when I replaced my 47 yo systems, I chose simple single stage units. The total cost for 2 complete systems installed with 10 yr. transferrable parts and service warranty was $6200. That included 5" filter boxes and TXVs replacing piston valves. To avoid the short cycling you described it's very important that the units be correctly sized for the space. If you buy units that are too large thinking they will air condition "better", you will have those issues. It's MUCH better to have units that are on the small side for the space than too large. Allowing a little increase in thermostat "swing" will solve some of those short cycling problems.
I've been in countless homes with undersized AC systems. I have NEVER been in one that had an oversized system that caused problems. If you have trouble with humidity with an oversized system it is because it is not set up properly. The laws of physics dictate that an oversized system will dehumidify better than an insufficient system so if that's not the result you're getting it was installed incorrectly. Usually the setting for drying the coils after a cooling cycle is defaulted to ON to get better SEER ratings. You want that setting OFF.
My home has a Trane XV18 variable speed system. It does in fact turn off once temp and humidity settings are reached. Six years old, it has always worked this way.
I have a small older home, in Kentucky, and in 2015, I had all the windows replaced, and had a Carrier variable speed system installed.
Since then, the system has pretty much paid for itself with the savings in utility bills.
It keeps the house very comfortable, and does it quietly.
It wasn't cheap, but it's been a life saver, because I have COPD, and by keeping the humidity down constantly, I can breathe much easier.
replacing the windows was huge, the unit meh!
@@kenthomas4668 For sure! Triple pane does a lot!
i am using a ecobee thermostat where I can set the on and off cycles like 15 min on 15min off works good
Really good description of how they work and pros and cons of each.
You need to look at multizone systems if you want the most comfort and reduced run times. Problem most HVAC installers are not up to doing the more detailed design and installation required. The cost per zone is about $500. Most installers have a cut and go approach.
Never run zone designs without using an inverter (full variable) system. The static pressure will destroy the unit.
@@wildcaveman5310 if you have pressure equalizer in a loop back you can keep the pressure equalized. My two multizone (3) single speed systems have been for running 22 years with no issues with a pressure equalizer. It's part of design details that need be understood by a good installer/designer.
@@larkincrutcher3424 bypass dampers can function but are inherently inefficient. Also very careful planning needs to be done to not overcool the coil leading to liquid in the compressor. Yes it can be done but that doesn’t make it a good design.
You are absolutely right about the variable speed system and humidity. I once tested this with a window unit, rewiring it so the fan only ran when the compressor was running. This gave the condensate time to drain between cycles. Setting it on the same temperature as before, the humidity level was noticeably lower and the room felt cooler. Used less electricity too.
Having said that, I have found the most cost-effective HVAC setup to be a single stage system and ceiling fans
I don't know about other brands, but Carrier and Bryant both default to a 15 min fan off drain period when dehumidification was called for at any point during a cycle. That's for variable speed. So if it's a hot day the system may run near 100% at minimum fan speed and modulate fan and compressor speed to maintain something like a 40F coil. Once setpoint is reached the compressor and fan will turn off for 15 min before resuming continuous fan circulate.
If it's a less demanding day but humid, the system could run at a lower 40% output and even lower speed. It will still stop the fan after temp setpoint and drain.
My main issue with the Bryant variable speed is that when it's trying to dehumidify, the fan is running at a crawl. My upstairs gets no air and downstairs gets cold. I don't have any zoning unfortunately to make this work better. I just have to dampen at the registers and increase the minimum cooling cfm or change dehumidify mode fan speed from normal to high.
I bought a 10K Midea U shaped window ac to cool half my house. It's variable speed and super quiet even on high. It runs most of the time ramping up and down and it will shut off completely if it's cool enough. The thing is a beast easily cooling four rooms including a kitchen, living room, family room, and dining room. And again super quiet. I don't know how long it will last but so far so good. We have an old Trane central ac but the electric bill just kills me in the summer. I think this will be cheaper to run, but we're not quite into summer yet.
Same applies to geothermal heatpump. I just replaced a single stage with a two stage. Heat is definitely more even throughout the house. One really nice side effect is much quieter operation most of the time and better air filtration. Humidifier works better too. Can't wait to see its performance in air conditioning mode.
Perfect and very timely as I'm about to replace my AC and Heater
Great video, very basic explanation of a confusing topic. Really liked your auto comparison, makes it easy to understand. Thanks for sharing. My AC is 14 yrs old and has a leak. I decided to replace my 4 ton one stage unit with an upgraded 2 stage unit.
I would like you to make a video about the features that are available on ac units. You mentioned a blue UV light in one of your videos... this one? I dunno. At any rate, where I am they're all car salesmen and you can't believe anything they say and it's virtually impossible to get an apples to apples comparison. Your videos have helped SO MUCH. I really appreciate everything that you're doing. I've shared your videos all over the place. You are the best of UA-cam.
I live in an area where the potential for AC use is year round with 9 months of continuous cooling. I got a VFD 3 ton unit and I would never go back to a single speed unit. It was at least $50 a month in savings. The value is completely based on where you live and your house.
it's because variable AC have direct current compressors which consume half the power needed to cool a space compare to alternate current compressors
@@firstlast-pt5pp yup and reasonable sized generator can run them since there’s no inrush current.
I live in Florida so humidity is an issue with comfort in and air conditioned space. My A/C when out at my old house. I went from a 12seer to a 17.75seer two stage system. The two stage system did run longer but it controlled the humidity so you could run it a degree or two hotter and get the same comfort. It also dropped the power bill by about $30-$40 a month. My new house (still in FL) has a cheap builder's grade A/C but since it was sized to less tons per square foot than the older house, it runs frequently enough to keep humidity in check. And since the new house has better insulation and double pained glass, the power bills are about the same between the two house (1600sq/ft on the old house, 2800sq/ft on the new house). When the current system bits the dust, I will be replacing it with a 2 stage on the new house too. I am hoping the extra air flow will help the "hot spot" in the computer room/office and over all drop my power bill again.
I have a Bryant, 5 stage compressor, variable speed fan/blower each, it does on/off. The fans will run after compressor turns off to dehumidify. I live South Louisiana, high humidity, It is the most confirmable system ever had.
None of that has been my 33 year experience. In theory, all of this makes perfect sense. But on more than one occasion I have jumpered a 2 stage system without telling the customer (for fear of a placebo effect) and returned later and unjumpered them. Both before, and after, I took both temp and humidity readings; and I queried the customer about their comfort. The results were indistinguishable. I have personally jumpered systems when there was no 2 stage stat, and have seen many units jumpered on service calls. You know how many people, in 33 years, have reported an awareness of the change in their comfort? ZERO. It is my strong belief and experience that the greatest determinant in comfort is unit sizing. I do not find, based on my testing, that peaks and valleys in comfort, short cycling, longer run time in 1st stage for better humidity control etc, to be any real issue or benefit of note. The HVAC industry sells lots of bell and whistles; ECM, SEER Brand etc. The potential permutations are numerous. But of all those bells and whistles, many of which have real merit, "2 stage" is one I think performs best in sales literature and text book theory. I don't find the argument for life span, utility costs, or comfort to be compelling in the real world. Get a higher SEER first. I see 2 stage as not being the home run it's cracked up to be,
Thanks for this input.
Thanks for the info. Are you referring to the observations in a specific part of the Country?
@@wholeNwon Midwest, Cincinnati
@@raindogs451 Makes very good sense.
@@raindogs451Cincinnati is cold compared to a lot of the US. Not really the place to be testing equipment meant to deal with hot and humid conditions
I have a Carrier Infinity 23 SEER system and it is super quiet and efficient but costly to repair. I've had to change control boards at $2,000 twice.
Did the warranty not cover that?
Why does the warranty not cover the boards?
Yeah, I’m trying to weigh overall what I meed it to do (keep my house at 70 F, at the lowest cost overall including monthly bills and new systems every 15 yrs). The lowest cost system due to easier to repair and replace seems more cost effective to do the same task.
You can buy a lot of power with 4k
Variable speed was worth every penny in my house. I live in a high humidity area and it helps keep my indoor humidity comfortable by running low all day long.
What is a typical humidity level that your unit achieves?
What’s your location?
Do you have standalone or individual humidity sensors in your home?
@@smokeysmith1282 I live 20 miles north of New Orleans. In a the low land marshes. My nest has a humidity sensor and I have a few other ones. Ones on a weather station with indoor and outdoor stats.
As a retired Bryant territory manager , bravo. Good unbiased explanation of what’s available out there.
I loved selling the 698B with the 50% unloading scroll. I guess it’s gone now.
Been out of the game for a decade.
If you are referring to the 50% reciprocating compressor by Bristol, that was a collasal pos.
We love our Bryant 880TA 4-ton drive VCA blower furnace, Bryant 189BNV048 Air conditioner, Bryant Connex thermostat and AprilAire filtration system and humidifier for year round usage here in Denver. I love the 5-stage AC unit as it spends a majority of it's time in 1-3 stages and runs a continuous fan to make sure all areas of the home are about the equal temperature. I am now a Bryant dealer.
Great informative video, thank you! Here are my opinions after 21-years in the HVAC industry, from service to sales: The AC system is not only removing heat from your home but it is also dehumidifying. However, it's ONLY dehumidifying when it's running. This is why a two-stage or more system does a much better job of dehumidifying which makes you more comfortable in your home and I recommend them if you have ranch style home. The problem with staged AC-system is if you have a 2-Story home, because multi-stage AC's run lower, longer. They don't run in high long enough to help push the heavier, denser air upstairs, thereby you can end up with higher temps upstairs than you would have with a single-stage AC system. Unless you have a zoned system for up and down, I recommend single-stage AC systems to my customers and if you live in a ranch then you will love the extra comfort of multi-stage ac systems. Price of course will be the deciding factor in all decision-making. And please understand that with the higher and higher efficiency ratings mandated by the EPA on the HVAC manufacturers, these units don't last 20, 30 or 40 years anymore. Get a 10-Year Parts & Labor warranty if you can and then cross your fingers after it expires. Finally, make sure the company who installs the new equipment is going to still be in business for the next ten-years it's under warranty too!
We did variable speed. Added returns in each room upstairs..problem solved. Definitely a consideration if u able to change design or cost of zoning controls is a factor.
Have always had 2 ton 3 ton 2 stage systems, but do to pandemic supply issues had to go with a single 3 ton unit which has provided quite comfortable temperatures and humidity removal. Although I am not a HAVC person, in my opinion, I think that proper sizing is a very critical aspect when selecting a heating or AC unit.
"Proper sizing" generally means bigger equipment is worse for both temps and humidity which is the route you may have went here. (Obviously, sizing depends on the square footage of the home, climate, insulation values, etc).
Also, going with a DC, ECM fan motor also helps in this area too. With the great efficiency gained in electricity costs, u can now turn your indoor fan to run 24/7 or to cycle on every 15 minutes for more even home temperatures.
I recently had a variable (64-stage) 4-ton Lennox system installed in my 2500 sq ft, 5 bedroom, single-story Florida home. However, it does NOT stay on all the time, as I'd expected. It turns out that the air handler does not have variable fan speeds. It simply starts, ramps up to 100% and then ramps down when it turns off. It does this throughout the day, usually running for about 5 minutes, stopping for 5 minutes and repeating the cycle. The only time the system ever really stays on for prolonged periods is in the evening when the thermostat is set to bring the temp down several degrees. I've tried to get some support from the company who installed it, but the techs tell me that it's operating as designed and no one really seems to understand how to configure the thermostat that they installed with the system. The thermostat is a Lennox iComfort M30, which is notorious for having software glitches from what I've read online. I found it to be misconfigured by the installer - the condenser type was not set correctly (it's a 4 ton unit and it was set for 2 ton) and it can only be set for single-stage or dual-stage. Apparently one must have the high end S30 thermostat for it to communicate with the condenser. I have no earthly idea of how the variable condenser can know what stage to operate in... I'm assuming it has its own logic, but honestly, it always sounds like it's just on or off... there is little difference in the sounds it produces. Frankly, I'm dreading my first electric bill with this system as I know it can't be operating at its most efficient. I have given serious thought to just tossing the M30 as the app doesn't even work right (it often says that there's a poor WiFi signal, even though both the thermostat and the phone have the highest possible signal level). I am considering getting an EcoBee instead in the hopes I can stop this constant short-cycling. Any thoughts on this?
Sounds Like you were sold a Bill of Goods by an unqualified Dealer. Get the Factory Rep involved. Don't Give up. Balls to the Wall on this one my friend!
I upgraded to a variable speed 5 ton carrier heat pump, propane furnace dual fuel system. Cost me around 9k including installation. 2500 sq ft, single story house. I am very happy with it! Hardly ever notice it's running and it does turn off, usually in the evening. Heat pump reaches its limit around 10-12 degrees then the furnace takes over. On average I'm saving $20 a month on electric and only fill once every 3 years on propane as appose to annually before.
We had a Bryant variable speed furnace and AC installed in Minnesota. The blower ran 24 x 7, but almost always at a very low and very quiet speed. The temperature was very uniform during the winter and summer. It was drastically better than the old single speed furnace and AC. When the AC was running it would alternate between “cooling” and “dehumidification” on the thermostat. When the system alternated between “cooling” and “dehumidification”, it got rid of the excess humidity without making the house feel too cold.
We moved to Florida, where heat pumps are used for AC and heating, plus there are air handlers in the garage. Is there a variable speed HVAC heat pump system? Can a heat pump system alternate between “cooling” and “dehumidification”? There’s also whole house dehumidification that could be added which is supposed to remove humidity better when the outside humidity is high, but the outside temperatures aren’t very warm, like in the upper 60’s or low 70’s.
Lennox makes the El18vpv heat pump.mic you use their S30- thermostat it will run variable speed. Mitsubishi also makes the SUZducted variable speed heat pump by far the most quiet unit ever made.
Bryant makes a variable speed AC and a Rotary 5-stage AC system. They also offer these units in HP models. You can use an AHU instead of a furnace but personally, I would still buy a furnace as you will need heat strips for emergency heat, just in case as AUX heat. Two stage 80% two-stage furnaces are really inexpensive in Florida because very few people buy them. You can probably score a smoking deal. You can have humidification 24/7 on this furnace or AHU and offer the best cooling. I prefer the 5 stage system because it is 25%, 40%, 65%, 80% and 100% of cooling modes and will change as the Bryant Connex thermostat will control. The fan will run constantly and as can be increased and decreased to support humidification. You can run 350 CFM per ton of cooling. I am not sure if your home has one or two HVAC systems. The goal is to run from 72-75 degrees around 45-55% humidity. AprilAire has dehumidifiers that can be hooked into your return air ducting and it will pull the humidity down further, which will feel much cooler. I hope this helps. Bryant and Carrier are the same brand but the Bryant Evolution is the matching Carrier Infinity. You can get straight AC or a HP in either model and brand. If that does not work for you, Daikin/Amana also has a variable speed system that is also amazing for a reasonable price. Please comment, if you have any questions and I will get back to you as soon as I can.
MN is fun to heat/cool. 100+ degrees with dew points in the upper 60’s to lower 70’s in the summer. Winter brings -25 to -35 not factoring wind chills.
It’s crazy
I have variable speed and my house is at 50% humidity inside. I really like it. My house is 1750 sqf.
What’s the tonnage rating of the unit and where do you live 😂?
I have had two stage Heatpump system that replaced an old single-stage gas A/C for 4 months and experienced both heating, cooling. I also have a new single-stage gas A/C on other side of the same home that was installed before the heat pump 2 stage system and I can make out the difference post install. It is the best. I no longer have humidity issues in the home. It is night and day more comfortable than a single stage. They are both Trane systems.
I went from a single stage to a inverter variable system, Daikin VRV Life. It broke in 18 months requiring the outdoor unit to be replaced AND it took 30 days with 6 trips to figure out what was wrong. Also i've had humidity problems so I had to install a whole home dehumidifer to keep humidity below 50 percent. It sits at 58 percent in the summer despite running all day. Also like he said in the video it runs 16 hours a day it hovers just above set temp making you think its not able to cool properly. So whats more efficent? running 19 hours a day at 1.5kw OR running for 8 hours a day at 4k watts and you set it for 72 degrees and it gets to 72 degrees (not 73-74)? that's 32kwh a day vs 28 kwh a day, at .12 cents a kwh where I am, thats 50 cents a day savings, times 30 in a month or 15 dollars savings. Now add in the whole home dehumidifer and your energy savings is moot powering it and the cost of it.
Your experience is very common. A simple single stage unit is the way to go almost without exception.
I tell people that those variable speed compressors are great until you need to repair them. Parts are expensive and most HVAC techs don’t have the training to diagnose the problem.
Have a Trane variable speed system installed about 6 years ago, my electric bill went from $194 a month down to $118 a month. Although due to rise in electricity prices now, my electric bill is now is $177 a month. Just love the Trane Home software on my android phone, shows me the daily and monthly temperature history back a full year as well as average temp for any given month. Don't notice any excess humidity in the house ever, even when we get a full week of 90 degree days.
I'm not sure if it's been mentioned already, but it doesn't make much sense to say that a variable speed system doesn't remove as much humidity, since the surface tension on the evaporator can only hold so much water. It has to drip off, and while the evaporator may rarely if ever get dry, it should still remove just as much water, if not more.
As someone who worked as a tech and installed many units of different grades. My next unit will be variable speed. They cost more but in my opinion are worth it. The unit only runs as hard as it needs to. I live in NW Alabama (Hot and muggy) I put a one ton heat pump in my workshop My bill was $34 in August and I figure about $5 of that is lighting.
I install the AmanaGoodman 2 stage and it’s very good.
Also install a lot of Gree Flexx would suggest you look at it as a very good cost vs value option.
Variable speed outdoor but single speed indoor. Uses any thermostat and qualified for tax credit.
Here in Phoenix Arizona we dont get much humidity so its not an issue plus the air is so dry here the more the 2 stage blows the more uncomfortable my sinuses are. I actually have to put humidity back in the air here. I like the single stage in the hot desert.
Thanks for pointing that out. We’re going with a Rheem single stage 13.4 SEER packaged heat pump for AZ house.
Great video buddy, very informative. Was having issues with my unit not knowing it was a Stage 2 system.
Happy I was able to help!
I have a houseboat. I just had an air conditioning company install the carrier two-stage 17-seer heat pump. All electric. 3-ton. The dealer told me that a 3-ton would be more than efficient. It is not. Our 1999 house walls are 1" thick plywood with no insulation in the walls and the windows are single pane. Keep in mind there are several windows on a houseboat. When the houseboat was built in 1999 they installed a 3-ton train air handler heat pump unit, single stage. We did buy the boat 9 years ago and it has never been sufficient. It always struggled to get down to 74° on a day with the outside temperature being roughly 80 to 85 degrees. The carrier just installed is a 3-ton and has 2 speeds on the indoor fan motor. Both of those are so low that it doesn't push out the cold air as much as we needed them to. My question is it was just installed 4 days ago and we are not pleased with it. I looked online and I was very impressed with the infinity carrier 18VS. We do have hotspot areas in the houseboat. I am considering the 4-ton infinity 18VS. Since this unit that we have now was installed 4 days ago and I will be contacting the installing company to upgrade to a 4-ton because he told him several times that a 3-ton will do the job. I am concerned about him asking for a lot more money for the 18VS infinity unit upgrade because basically, he would be installing an air conditioning unit 2 times. I don't mind paying more for the 4-ton 18VS but at the same time, I don't want to be paying more in labor costs because of their mistake. They are basically going to have to install the 2nd unit for free.
I'm hoping someone can tell me what is the dealer cost for both of these units. The indoor unit that they installed is product #FV4CNB005L00EEAA model#FV4CNB005. The outdoor unit is product #25HCB636A0031030, model #25HCB636A310. I want to pay this contractor the difference between both of these units. I just don't want to pay them twice for installing the correct-sized unit when they should've got it right the 1st time.
One of the things he did not mention is multi-zone mini-splits normally operate as variable speed because the variable number of inside evap units needing to run at any given time.
Minisplit systems are a different configuration than the far more common residential split system contractors install is probably why.
@@srobeck77 not any more.. all manufacturers are coming out with mini split condensers hooked to evap coils and air handlers. Way of the future.
@@philliprogers7987 Its still a bolt on after the fact solution as always will be.
Got myself a variable inverter mini split and I am quite satisfied. I use it at 40% capacity for higher dehumidification and at 110% for extra cooling. Both are without any time limit which is the selling point.
how does an AC run at 110%
@@rufflesinc Some units are designed to run above rated capacity. For example, our Maytag IQ Drive runs from 40% up thru 118% So, our 3 ton system can run like a 3.5 ton system if circumstances call for it. I don't know why they just don't call it a 3.5 ton system that runs from 20% - 100%.
I would add that yes a two stage or variable is more and may not get your return it has to do more than money. A two stage or variable system helps with comfort and for some the extra cost is worth it.
Agreed. Along with temp/humidity comfort, there is noise comfort. I've lived in places where the TV volume needed to be adjusted to the on/off cycles of single stage systems.
How does using a single speed compressor with a variable air handler compare in terms of efficiency and comfort? I am finding tons of videos and info on 2-speed and variable compressor systems but nothing on a single speed system with the newer premium/variable air handler
Thoughts on a single stage condenser with a two stage gas furnace? My biggest concern is the humidity. Since installing new insulation in attic and new roof, the amount of humidity is noticeably higher. The most recent estimate I got he said I didn't need to get. 2 stage or variable.
Old low pressure systems r22 ran for 20+ yeas, single stage piston no problem. Low on charge for some time. But not bad. It was loud outdoor unit. 410a with high pressures when txv is closing down when ducts are having problems or filter and adds to self destruction more often. 2 stage inverter can ramp down during high pressure cases where txv is clamping down. Let me know if this is way off. 2 stage gas furnace makes sense too, high blower and low for either ac or heat.
the common issue in my little town: most of the homes are 100ish years old. They had various upgrades as things became available. ff to now and its been retrofitted with central air/heat initially in the 60's and updated furnaces as they wore out or got cold air added- the common issue for almost all of the houses is the conditioned air does not make it to the upstairs or rooms furthest away from the unit. There are vents there but nothing comes out of them. The basement gets ice cold, most of the downstairs receives a sufficient supply. Blocking vents just makes the a coil freeze up. Mine has a huge unit i dont know the btu but I am not only speaking about my house. Is there a fix that does not require replacing or adding units to the houses? In my case I believe the unit has plenty of conditioned air to give but the restrictive ducts dont deliver very far so it gets dumped into the basement to prevent the A coil from freezing up.
Here’s where I’m at with this, I know if you have the money a fancier system is great. However, they are a lot more expensive to repair, not to mention the cost difference to start with. For that reason, I won’t even install a variable speed system unless the customer has tons of money and can afford it. But to each his own on this matter.
That being said I’ll install a higher seer system if they want it.
I have a large 2 story house, variable speed is working amazing in my home. Reduction of $200-$400 a month.
How much did you save
I went from a 2 ton single stage to a 3 ton variable stage and I don't regret it. It kept my my house alot cooler and it dropped my electricity bill almost $150 month. That was in a 1400 sq ft home in 2016. I did have it financed which cost me around $200 a month, so with the energy savings I was essentially $50 a month. I bought my next house in 2021 which had a 3.5 ton single stage AC and the end of the year I replaced it and got a 5 ton variable. I'll probably never get a single stage AC. I'll get a two stage before I ever consider single stage.
My variable compressor is chugging away, efficiently and quietly satisfying demands, especially during this year’s heat waves. That is in my house. Commercially, a slightly different system can use large variable output compressors that are additionally staged in order to satisfy demand. Regardless of application, control systems are the crux of design (including retro-fits) and must be carefully chosen for best return on investment.
Added notation has us all aware of cost of utilities our systems are subject to in sometimes complex ways. While Return On Investment underlies many considerations, achieving maximum ROI must include examination of many facets, sometimes almost laughably including ‘newer’ practices, such as frictionless magnetic crankshaft bearings. However, controlling HVACR systems to accommodate rapidly changing energy pricing structures. Not only must we consider our basic rate, but other elements such as time of day usage, and ‘demand’ rates may easily affect what we pay. For example, a n additional startup of a compressor that does not have ‘soft start-up’ hardware, may trigger a demand rate for an entire month, regardless of how long that load runs, even if for just a few minutes. Reactively controlling systems is best left to electronically controlled systems, with computer interface for the operators, be they a single homeowner or a commercial building operator, technician, supervisor, manager or owner. Teamwork matters.
I once had a HVAC crew tell me that I should leave my blower on 24/7. I had a 5ton unit for a 4000sqft home in Michigan. Other then having to replace my large filters more often, I did notice at least a more equal heating/cooling effect. Downside, during cooking smelly foods (like stirefry), it distributed the smell faster and all over the house, equally. As far as power consumption, was told it didn't burn more power, running the blower motor, then running a 60watt bulb. From the consumer assumption side, it seemed reasonable. During heating months, after the house temp was "satisfied", the blower would push the warm air left behind after a cycle out to the house. Same for cooling. Running/cost wise, never noticed the difference if it save more money or not, but at least it was more pleasant.
We have a 20yr old single stage unit in a two story home. Because our house has hot and cold spots we run the fan 24/7 in the summer months even if the ac isn't running just to move air. This probably isn't ideal but until we get a replacement unit it's the best we can do. Doors and windows were just replaced
I have installed 2 stage units since 1987 and everyone loves them , overall life is as good or better than most units .
Fly by companies and techs don’t know how to operate single stage and are completely lost on anything with more than 2 wires
God Bless You ❤ Cowgirl has learned a ton from your video and now because of you have the knowledge to move forward in what i need to choose for a new Electric Heat Pump Air Conditioner..... Southeastern Indiana ❤
I got a two stage Lenox 16 SEER and saved around $80 or $90 monthly, here in South Florida gets pretty hot and HUMID, after 8 year compressor fail due sudden voltage increase , it burn also the motor fan but since the unit had warranty, Lennox sent compressor, motor fan without charging one cent. Only had to pay labor .Manny technicians does not like two stage, but you will save lot of $ and i would say after 5 or 6 years the unit gets pay for itself .
Conventional main unit with a mini split suplemental based on load calc.works well in my experience.sensible heat ratio residential is 70 % so the unit parred with the mini will give you a lower cost with same humidity control, just make Shure you do the load calcs.sensible and latent.
I’ve had all types, but now have a variable speed. I like the fact that it keeps the house exactly on temperature, but it is hard to get used to the fact that it n ver shuts off.
Why not switch the a/c fan to on for a single stage?
Great video!! Just a quick question would 2 stage be better for a house which has less optimal insulation? Parts of the house has cold spots and half of the second floor is above garage and is usually colder during winter and warm during summer. Any thoughts?
I sell either two-speed or inverter/variable VOLUME (of refrigeration) in Florida due our humidity. The inverter/ volume can be programmed to a set % of humidity. This is great feature for health and comfort.
I also installed an economizer, with it’s own thermostat. So I can run it with or without the A/C. It works really well bringing in cool night air all night with the A/C off.
So I take it that the economizer is a whole house fan?
@@lmeredeemed5043 In as much as it replaces inside air with outside air, yes, but that's where the similarity ends. No windows or doors need to be open, and the outside air is passed through the system filter before being discharged through the HVAC registers. It's more akin to the fresh air damper on a car HVAC system.
Great teacher. I was able to have an educated conversation with my contractors because of you!
He’s right and i agree with it all. Those houses feel stale and the air isn’t comfortable-ppl who live in them are usually old and don’t care. It kind of reminds me of the old days when like old ppl especially Italians or polish ppl don’t open their windows in NY because they didn’t want to clean dust off of all the Chinaware and Nick nacks in the house. So this time period I’m talking about nobody had A/C even if they had money-they just didn’t waste money on it for 2x weeks of hot weather a year plus the nights get cool and a lot of ppl would open windows at night to let in cool fresh air to sleep. I live in Florida now and I’m a builder & you can’t open windows at night cuz it’s 80 humid degrees out-so i know a bit about what this guy is saying. I’ve seen the variable speed brand new units in freshly built homes or freshly remodeled homes or apt complexes grow mold with in a month or 2. I don’t recommend them to anyone -I’ve seen nasty stuff happen and it’s not healthy for this part of country and i don’t even think it’s good for up north-the air in the house seems stale. The 2 speed is worth the money ppl-you will save a lot on electric and make the extra cost back pretty quick. Same goes for the pool. You want the same. If you just stick a single speed in vs 2 stage on pool it’s easy an extra $100 a month electric difference. If you use a variable speed pool pump don’t set it too low in RPMs because it won’t really clean the pool it’s moving water too slow and ppl don’t realize the bad stuff in the pool is in the top 6 inches of water and you want to remove that layer over and over to keep it safe. A clear water pool doesn’t mean it’s safe. It can have bad bacteria in that top 6 inches. So AC unit and pool pump will have same issues if RPMs are set too low-it equals stale not healthy air or water. But definitely get 2 stage and save money and it will last longer. You will make money back quickly. And on pool pump you can set RPMs of the motor so you can make it so it acts like a 2 stage or make your own settings of a w stage & have it kick higher every couple hours to skim top layer off fast then kick down to low speed for awhile. We should have that type of control on our ac units on an app so you can set speed of motor for different parts of day or according to weather.
I think it also depends on the type of insulation and age of the house, newer sealed houses would benefit from variable or multi stage systems. My house is not sealed like a new house, so i sealed and insulated the best i could, installed a higher seer system, and a whole house dehumidifier. I use the ecobee enhanced to run the AC and dehumidifier. I added some ecobee remote sensors to keep the temp more level through out rooms.
I appreciate the info. Good to be able to explain the difference in two stage and variable speed
Why do you say the “blower is always running” at 9:03 referring to variable systems? I have a carrier infinity system and located in Georgia. My fan is set to auto, should it be set to on? My home isn’t large but I do have spray foam and new windows.
I am retired after 45 years in the business and have settled on this approach. Use a 16 seer single stage and a high efficiency mini split in your main living area. Set your 16 seer main system 2 degrees lower than the mini split and it runs 80% of the time. I currently live in a builder grade 1800 square foot house in North East Pa. and have never had a winter bill over 175 and 90 in the summer for a 100% electric home.
I live in Arizona and have a similar situation. I have a 2100 square foot house. With a 2 ton mini split that runs 100% on solar during the day and a five ton heat pump. My bills are very good. It's the only way I'd do solar as the pay back is only a couple years.
Yes! Adding a split system for a back bedroom and middle bedroom. Around $2,300 and 23 SEER. This is in opposition to a new central system for around $11,000 -$15,000 and 18 SEER. Then I need to run the entire system to cool, or heat the back rooms for sleeping. Plus I have solar panels so I can keep my older 12 SEER system longer, based on cost to run. I could add returns to the back room to promote more air changes, the cost quoted was stupid expensive, in excess of adding the split system by a factor of 2.5. Plus I’m installing the split system by myself. It’s not hard, especially since I got three quotes for installation only, not including system cost of $2,500 - $3,000.
In the tropical country where I live, the majority of air conditioners are inverter units (I.e., variable speed) due to their higher energy efficiency in a climate where the cooling season is 12 months of the year. Even kitchen appliances (e.g. refrigerators and even microwaves) are inverter systems.
My heat pump is variable speed for the compressor and outside condenser fans, but it works on a regular single-stage thermostat. I can hear it ramp up and down so I'm guessing its modulating based on the coil pressures or something.
I installed a single-stage heat pump for my 2,300 sq. ft. ranch-style home. While there are a few cold spots at night due to the blast , overall, I’m satisfied with its performance. I currently pay 16 cents per kilowatt-hour to my electric company, with an average monthly bill of $225-thanks to that Texas heat!
However, by adding solar panels to my rooftop, I’ll not only benefit from the panels acting as a radiant barrier, reducing my cooling costs by around 20%, but the solar system itself will bring my total monthly energy costs down to about $130. That way, I’m able to enjoy the best of both worlds-energy efficiency and lower bills.
Great explanation! Never understood all of this but now I do. Fantastic video!!
I like what you say.. 1 have a 2 stage Copland system… this is the only way.. it runs on the low side but then.. I can drop the temp 6 degrees in 1 hour .. No single stage could ever do that..
I have a variable speed setup for air and heat and it DOES turn off completely if not needed. Seems some systems stay on 100%, some don't. Mine is a Lennox.
Very nice video, echos what my local AC guy told me, always nice to hear it from another source!
Compressor doesn't need to shut down to shed moisture, in fact when it does shut off most of the moisture on there will just evaporate back into the air. As long as the coil temp is below the incoming return air dew point, it will continue to collect more than it gives off and keep draining away. Which is basically always on a DX system.
Love my variable speed system, and for the minimal difference in initial cost I wouldn’t choose anything else again.
" minimal difference in initial cost" that's really surprising to hear. I'm getting quotes for variable systems that are over doubling the single speed system quotes. I'm talking 10k vs 26k type of different which is pretty a damn huge difference imo. I want the variable speed, but I was hoping for like 15-18k not 26k.
@@hobblyjig that’s insane. Mind you, my system was installed in fall 20, and I’m in the Midwest so not sure what the current market conditions are like, or how they compare to you locally.
At the time, for the 4 ton gas furnace and a/c choices I was given between a 13 seer single stage ranged from about 10.5 and 13k for the variable speed.
Now, I did pay about $17k total for the project because they were also installing a whole new duct system (doing a whole-house renovation essentially), the old system was a heat pump with electric heat so they had to run gas, new line set, everything. But on paper there was really only about a $2500 difference between equipment cost on the two systems. To me that’s minimal in the big picture considering the comfort and convenience of one over the other imho, but maybe he was able to make up some higher margins on the extra work, I don’t know.
That’s not to say I didn’t have some outrageous bids, also, but the key difference was finding a small local installer that doesn’t have 40+ fancy work trucks running around town.
That’s been my experience anyway.
Bro, hot and cold spots get resolved with duct sizing/placement, 80% of the time. Ducting is just as important as a good running equipment.
Where does this 80% of the time come from or just another opinion presented as an actual real stat?
@@srobeck77 it's my opinion from what I see here in CA. Ducting is super important. I know what I'm talking about, not just talking out my ass, I'm a C20 licensed contractor with hundreds of happy customers
@@LX-cg1oi ducting is always important no matter where u live and is only 1 of several factors, but isnt the cause of 80% of probkens. It just isnt, sorry to say
Whenever I get a house built, I want the most consistent temperature and quietest operation. One of the best things about variable speed systems is that you can crank it down to 68 degrees on a 102 degree day and not cry at your electric bill.
I had to do a double-take when I looked at the electrical sticker on my neighbor's condenser. Whereas starting amps on a regular system is very high, the starting amps on variable speed compressors is nothing because they just start slow and speed up. Even the running amps was crazy low!
I got one of thos mini-split systems variable speed for the whole house. My concrete pad was in my back yard and the onld box unit was so loud everytime it turned on we built a fence around it to block some noise. My mini-split unit was super quite. It took a while to get use to how the air is though. Because i got use to having full blast cold air from a single stage unit just blasting cold air off and on, but with a variable speed you get mildly cool air continuously as it reaches your desired temp. An that can be confusing if its working right or not. It only gears up super cold air if the temp change requires it.
Hello , what are your thoughts on mini split systems , thank you
One of the main benefits of a Variable speed system is humidity control and when set up and sized properly it should work better than a 2-stage system. The variable systems will shut off if there isn't a demand. We install 2-stage and variable Carrier / ICP almost exclusively around my area. When it's 95 degrees and 80% RH the variables will out perform the 2-stage.
We got a variable system in our old house and I remember the day they installed it and turned it on it seemed like the house temperature dropped quickly, but it wasn't the temperature it was the fact it had sucked out all the humidity that made 76 degrees seem like 65. Our summer utility bills went from about $280/mo to about $150 a month. It was crazy how much of a difference it made.
80% RH and 95F is extremely rare
Correct, very rare. Dew point would be 87.8 F.
@@cadamham unless you are in Florida (and the numbers feel reverse at night)
@@cadamham in NC we regularly get 90 degrees with 75% humidity in summer and it can be 80+ degrees and 90% humidity at 3am. and thats going to get far more common and worse the next 5 to 10 years
This is all great info! I live in Colorado and have a two-story home with one furnace in the attic and one furnace in the basement. I decided to go with two-stage furnaces on both levels. And to pay for that two-stage AC upstairs. It works out awesome that way. The upper unit does all the work in the summer and the lower unit does most of the work in the winter. I only wish I would've opted for a 90% efficient furnace in the Basement. I went with 80% in the attic because it gets so cold up there in the winter I was afraid it might condensate in the PVC. You probably have the best info on UA-cam. I'm signing up just to follow you 🙂
You were right to do 80% in attic. The 90% produce condensate water that would freeze if not in an insulated box.
80% units are far superior and you probably just need a little larger furnace in the basement to overcome the temperature and a VCA blower motor to push that hot air up to the upper levels of the home. I own an HVAC business that also does insulation upgrades. A high insulation factor in your attic allows for a smaller furnace on the lower portion of the home. It is very inexpensive to upgrade but makes a huge different in cooling, heating, sound deadening and critter deterrent. High-efficiency furnaces are rarely worth their cost.
The Condensate Water may Freeze in the Winter in the attic, not Condensate! That is the worst case for too cold an attic, unless you have Spray Foam insulation in the Roof Joist, then the temp will not go to freezing in the South Eastern Zones, don't know about the North.
A two stage (unloading scroll) tends to be the best compromise. You get a two stage system so it’s either 100 percent or 60 percent but don’t have the complexity or cost of an inverter.
I put a two stage heat pump with two stage gas furnace and it’s the best all around system. I’m the winter when it’s mild I run the heat pump so I don’t have that blast of heat every time the heater comes on. But when it gets too cold or it’s really rainy so the heat pump is always defrosting, it locks out and we start with the furnace on low stage and that tends to take care of 99 percent.
But when we had that winter in the teens, that second stage kicked in and it worked great.
Can you make a video covering mini-split systems and your thoughts with them. Definitely cool systems and very efficient with the DC inverter compressor.
Ideal if you prefer 20 degree temperature differences between rooms and have no aesthetic taste whatsoever.
I'd add the mechanical, moving parts, compressor, evap fan, condenser fan, all get more damage or wear from starting or stopping so the two stage system, with longer run cycles, would preserve the systems moving parts.
The inverter (continuously running) system, on the other hand, is ...continuous... and I suspect, do not have evidence, that sometimes this is more wear than that caused by frequent on-off cycles. Based on the informed explanations of this gentleman, I think smaller homes, those with less ideal insulation, in hotter areas, the two stage system would be the sweet spot, including or not including cost differences.
Every unit has different sensible and latent parameters and this could explain the difference between variable and 2 stage with moisture removal. A blanket statement that one does better than the other may be true for the units looked at. I would suggest a better understanding of equipment selection on the front end. John, PE
What does variable speed refer to?
There are two main components, the compressor and the fan that pumps the air thru the house.
Is it slowing down both, the compressor and the fan?
What about keeping the fan on with a single stage a/c system? Will that help with taking out the humidity?
Running the fan only would just equalize the humidity across entire living space. Equalized humidity would ever so slightly increase the humidity nearest the A/C return air duct so the next cooling cycle would remove a tiny fraction more humidity.
If you want reliable comfort invest on a whole house dehumidifier. It will be easier and cheaper as long you have the space for the additional equipment.
If you don’t have, Lennox make a dehumidifier that you plug at the end of a regular machine. So it makes it taller but should fit most preexistente spaces when replacing.
I have a variable system and it saved me 250 to 300 during the summer ... I totally disagree with the humidity but I live in Arizona! It's never feeling wet ....