Great video so far. Just wanted to stop and comment on your lacing technique. I am a weaver and what we do sometimes at the beginning and ending of a piece is a technique called hem stitching. It is a technique almost exactly as your lacing and accomplishes the same thing. Just a little curiosity I noticed. Really have liked all 3 videos. Enough for the commercial break. Onward to the finish.
I use a 'blanket stitch' knot (suspect it's the same as a 'hem stitch'?). I prefer waxed thread for smaller cables like key cables - the blanket stitch knot locks in place. The black lacing cord used is great for larger looms but doesn't lock in place very easily on these smaller looms.
Nice work. You did something I have done many times, which is, you cut that board from both ends, creating unnecessary waste. If one it was to square it up, the first scrap could have been smaller. You probably know this & it’s not like the scraps were of a very usable size, it’s just something my step dad would have said had he seen me do the same thing. Thanks for sharing. One question, there isn’t a way to make those switches velocity sensitive is there?
I have a probably silly question - if one uses the traditional 5-pin MIDI cable to connect the encoder, doesn't it need an external power supply to operate?
Great Channel and greetings from Germany! I planned to build a 2-manual digital harpsichord using wonderful samples, and for uncompromicingly getting a keyboard mit most authentic harpsichord-action, I really was crazy enough to purchase two of the keybeds from the Roland C-30 as spare parts (rather expensive) and now I sit in front of an unknown diode matrix with an unknown type of 16-pin-socket (female). So now I'm searching the internet for any kind of an adaptor from this to a more usable kind of 16-pin-connector. When this is done, I have to find out if Roland's diode matrix is compatible with any known kind of diode matrix.
are there contacts that ate placed differently than in extension of the keys? I want to make a practice organ, and the keys are long enough as is, I want to keep the instrument as small as possible
This is the usual type of contact for adding to keys retrospectively. Other keyboards, usually the ones with plastic keys have contacts under the keys.
You would have to add a second set of contacts for each key that operate slightly later then the first ones and then connect them all to an encoder that supports second touch. Hope that helps.
Great Videos, very interesting to watch. Just one point: In video II you removed the keys to attach the switch wipers. Unless I missed something I think it would have saved you some time and additional work in video III if you routed the channel for the piston wiring when you had all the keys removed in video II rather than having to remove them a 2nd time in video III. Anyhow, mission accomplished. Looking forward to your other videos.
Hi Peter, You're absolutely right, but I wanted to keep the subjects of the videos separate, and felt that the routing should go in the wiring video. That way if someone watched that one in isolation they would then see how to arrange for the wiring to be accommodated. Thanks for watching!
Have you by chance converted any Allen organ keyboards that already have switched matrixed? Any Idea where i'd be able to find a midi encoder for a keyboard that has a 6 x 11 matrix? I'd like to avoid rewiring the existing switches if at all possible.
Thanks for this series it was very educational and informative.
Thank you very much! I learned a lot..
Great video so far. Just wanted to stop and comment on your lacing technique. I am a weaver and what we do sometimes at the beginning and ending of a piece is a technique called hem stitching. It is a technique almost exactly as your lacing and accomplishes the same thing. Just a little curiosity I noticed. Really have liked all 3 videos. Enough for the commercial break. Onward to the finish.
I use a 'blanket stitch' knot (suspect it's the same as a 'hem stitch'?). I prefer waxed thread for smaller cables like key cables - the blanket stitch knot locks in place. The black lacing cord used is great for larger looms but doesn't lock in place very easily on these smaller looms.
Nice work.
You did something I have done many times, which is, you cut that board from both ends, creating unnecessary waste. If one it was to square it up, the first scrap could have been smaller.
You probably know this & it’s not like the scraps were of a very usable size, it’s just something my step dad would have said had he seen me do the same thing.
Thanks for sharing.
One question, there isn’t a way to make those switches velocity sensitive is there?
I have a probably silly question - if one uses the traditional 5-pin MIDI cable to connect the encoder, doesn't it need an external power supply to operate?
Great Channel and greetings from Germany! I planned to build a 2-manual digital harpsichord using wonderful samples, and for uncompromicingly getting a keyboard mit most authentic harpsichord-action, I really was crazy enough to purchase two of the keybeds from the Roland C-30 as spare parts (rather expensive) and now I sit in front of an unknown diode matrix with an unknown type of 16-pin-socket (female). So now I'm searching the internet for any kind of an adaptor from this to a more usable kind of 16-pin-connector. When this is done, I have to find out if Roland's diode matrix is compatible with any known kind of diode matrix.
are there contacts that ate placed differently than in extension of the keys? I want to make a practice organ, and the keys are long enough as is, I want to keep the instrument as small as possible
This is the usual type of contact for adding to keys retrospectively. Other keyboards, usually the ones with plastic keys have contacts under the keys.
Do you, or anyone out there, know how it might be possible to add second touch to this for use in a theatre organ console?
You would have to add a second set of contacts for each key that operate slightly later then the first ones and then connect them all to an encoder that supports second touch. Hope that helps.
Great Videos, very interesting to watch. Just one point: In video II you removed the keys to attach the switch wipers. Unless I missed something I think it would have saved you some time and additional work in video III if you routed the channel for the piston wiring when you had all the keys removed in video II rather than having to remove them a 2nd time in video III. Anyhow, mission accomplished. Looking forward to your other videos.
Hi Peter, You're absolutely right, but I wanted to keep the subjects of the videos separate, and felt that the routing should go in the wiring video. That way if someone watched that one in isolation they would then see how to arrange for the wiring to be accommodated. Thanks for watching!
Have you by chance converted any Allen organ keyboards that already have switched matrixed? Any Idea where i'd be able to find a midi encoder for a keyboard that has a 6 x 11 matrix? I'd like to avoid rewiring the existing switches if at all possible.
Contact me via the hauptwerk hardware website. I may be able to help.
When build you this keyboard?
March 2020
The same logic can be used ,if we create a rugged Pedal Board ,I suppose,sir.
That is correct - it can.
Tutty? 😲 It's 'too-tee', as in tutti fruitti.