The Vice grip method is also what I came to as well. The Loctite was a nice insurance tip. I made my own catch can from a billet fuel filter I modified. Now I don’t have to make this video.
@@edwardfaris8516 No he had to use that tap if he didn't the fitting would have only gone in the threads about 1 or 2 threads. Casting on the other hand you can pretty much tap it with a bolt, haha.
@@edwardfaris8516 If thats the case it will seal after the first 3 threads no matter how many threads were cut. If you look at your die it will also be tapered for the lead cuts.
I hope that continues to be the case. Just curious, have you ever looked inside your cylinders with a camera? I'm not sure why carbon buildup happens on some more than others.
Same here. The primary purpose of the bypass is to prevent oil mist from being pulled back into the engine. Even with a lower oil level, there is still some oil pulled back in.
I had smaller barbs and hose on a different bike, it seemed to work OK. What I did here seems to be the more common size. I did make some changes to the routing and posted that in a later video.
2 tips Sir. 1: don't use carbon steel taps, a few dollars more for a H.S.S. or high speed steel tap, and you have one that will last much longer and perform better. 2 : for the record, tap and machine cast iron - dry. Do not use a lubricant or cutting oil on cast iron. This in response to your statement in the video about tapping metals. For those concerned about the silicone, if you are able to tap the holes, use what's called a grub screw or socket head set screw. I believe they're a 10- 24 or 10- 32 thread. Apologies I'm not in the shop right now to be specific. I hope this helps 🙏
Next time you use an npt tap go out and buy a npt reamer. After drilling the hole to size ream it with the tapered npt reamer. This will give the hole the correct tapered shape and will allow you to hand tap with ease.
for a cleaner and safer look ,route hose between cylinders and straight down between motor case and transmission and secure on frame also install a small uni filter on end of hose instead of catch can
Very well explained. I like that you listed all the parts used. Many youtubers don't do that. I think the clamps you used would work also well for other hoses on the Harley Engine. They look very well made and will not dig into rubber hoses or come loose.
Great vid. One small suggestion: when you were screwing in the brass fittings, a set of ratcheting wrenches would have made that a snap vs. an open box wrench.
As you said, the NPT (National Pipe Thread tap) is tapered, it is not meant to be tapped into the material all the way in, but rather in enough to allow for the treaded fitting you plan to install. I have an Arlen Ness Big Sucker air cleaner assembly on my 2012 StreetGlide, and I did a very similar mod. to my Bike. I used fuel line hose, black ty-raps and routed the drain line fwd and down behind my fwd motor mount. I also ty-rapped a piece of cloth on the end of the tube (instead of a filter or catch can). It works great and almost invisible. I check everything including the air filter at each oil change. So far so good.
Looks good. I did the same on my FLHTK but chose to go forward to a catch can instead of back. I used stainless rubber lined loom clamps attached to the front cylinder lifter cover to keep the hose from touching any part of the engine or exhaust, then routed the hose down over the back of the rear brake master cylinder (slight pain to route the hose) so that I could mount the DK catch can off of the back bolt of the rear brake master cylinder. I replaced the rear bolt with a 1 1/2 inch bolt, used a 1/2" steel spacer and another loom clamp to hang the catch can off set from touching any part of the bike. Used a dremel to clean up the loom clamps and shape them to fit nicely on the lifter cover so that there will be no scratching of the chrome.
Nice vid, been curious about this mod on my 21 bob with the 114, but as far as using grips, Amazon sells special sockets just for the tap. Plus you can also slide some stainless steel hose rap so the exhaust doesn't melt the hose.
I really need to do this on my 2016 Softail Slim S but I’m INSANELY INTIMIDATED by the drilling & tapping process!😬😬 You made it look very easy, has there been any issues after using the bike?
What brand air filter is that ? Good lookin air cleaner . I did a external breather on my trike and routed the line on right front side of the frame away from the exhaust using a catch can. Great video !
Here is what I don't get. If you can ventilate pressure at the top of the case, why not just do that and plug the vent holes on the bolt???? I'm so misinformed by what the appropriate ventilation method is.
I'm not understanding...how you would ventilate pressure at the top of the case? The rocker covers seal the top end. The engine has to relieve pressure somehow, hence the breathers.
Just buy an air breather from DK customs that’s already set up for an external breather system. I just drilled holes in the backing of my breather plate, ran 1/4” fuel line off the stock banjo bolts (or whatever they are called?) ran the line out the holes I drilled into a Tee, and then down by the bottom of the engine and let it vent there instead of into my breather intake. Check out a video from “Infamous Creep” channel on how he did it. That’s who I copied. Super easy and works great
@robbyclark6915 There's many ways to go. I did the mod you describe on my Dyna, but the Touring doesn't have the same style bolts to do this. I also like the look of the Ventilator better than what DK has.
Wow, that doesn't sound right. Since I don't know you, don't be insulted if you already know what I'm going to say. You should check your oil level when the bike is hot, about a minute or two after you turn it off, with the bike on the side stand. The level should be in the middle of the range on the stick. If the oil level is too high it will expel it. If that's not an issue, then try posting on hdforums. My breather bypass puts out a couple drops of oil per ride, if that.
@@bluesriderDF thank you I normally put it at the top range of the arrow so that means I did over fill the bike, I thought I might have tear down the rocker top and buy new breathers again
Added catch can to your exact breather. Tried to let the catch can hang under breather but it wound up scuffing the powder coat on my case. Rerouted it down and behind my voltage regulator. I have more water in my can than oil. Good bit of water vapor til engine gets hot.
I appreciate your video. It’s more specific to the needs of my street glide special with the screaming eagle air cleaner on it. I’ll be looking at your other videos for advice. Thanks again.
I did something similar but had a machinist do it. I had them weld up the oil channels to the intake so I don’t have to worry about anything being sucked in through those. It’s a K&N back plate.
I put the tap in my drill and just go real slow with the variable speed trigger! I’ve done this for years at work and it works well! Also,, i use a wax stick to keep the threads lubed! Just be careful to not go fast or the tap will break!
@@bluesriderDF - most won’t! But i will say, I probably tap about 50 / 100 holes a day and haven’t had an issue in so long I can’t remember the last time i did.
@Americanpatriot602 Oh I really appreciate your comments and experience, very helpful. The very first time I ever tapped something was redoing threads on an intake manifold on my car, when I was about 20yo. The bolts for the thermostat housing snapped. I was about crapping myself! This is just one of those things. I don't do often enough to get very good at.
I have a 14 sgs . with Arlen Ness big sucker. Never had oil issues. But I also have 2020 lrs with s s intake...now I have oil blow by issue. About to get vented dipstick.
@@bluesriderDF Iv used a scope to see how much carbon on piston (via plug hole) the sgs has some dry ,thin ,in center of piston.55 k ...but the 2020 lrs has more carbon and wet looking. 15 k .
@Chris Gaskill I prefer the looks of the Screamin' Eagle intakes I have on my bikes, but DK is a good option for a bolt-on solution. A lot of people already have the SE and just want to vent it
I've been thinking about get the DK Transformer the only thing that is stopping me is they say that you have to use their air cleaner which a K&N and I already have a K&N but DK said My K&N Would not work. Looks exactly the same flat back and all. And that's what they say they're is. SMH
@Ronnie Saunders One option to do this mod without all the hassle is to take your backing plate and fittings to a machine shop. In addition to cutting threads for the fittings, you could have them cut threads in the existing oil passage ways and then you could install plugs with red lock tight to seal them up. I can't imagine they would charge that much.
I'm venting to ground. I get a drop or 2 on the garage floor every once in a while. Check this vid: ua-cam.com/video/nrhJC6ibxFI/v-deo.htmlsi=FouzuDEWE6L9zUCw
Instead of squeezing silicone into the passages tap the holes same as you did holes you drilled and put in screws or headless Allen screws with lock tight
"A good bit of oil" in this context was a few drops, which is normal and expected when the oil level is midway between the hash marks on the stick, checked a couple minutes after turning off a hot bike. So no, you are not correct that there was too much oil on the bike.
This is a breather, and if it were clogged or sealed up, the pressure would increase and blow out oil seals, such as rocker gaskets. The engine can also overheat and misfire.
I did a similar mod and used a DK Customs catch can. Lots of water moisture along with oil mist!! So glad I did it on my ‘21 Ultra-Limited.
Good job. I hate the idea of all that crap being sucked back into my engine!
Use 12 point socket on square tools , with 12 point socket , 1/4” drive ratchet works GREAT !!
A 12 point 1/4" inch drive socket of the right size fits the tap and works better than rotating vise grip.
Alot of people don't realize you can use the right size 12 pt. socket on square plugs, taps, etc.
Old video, but a socket fits over the square tap end
The tap got harder because npt is tapered
Get cutting oil, spit is literally better than wd for cutting threads
I routed the hose between the cylinder heads back the other way away from the exhaust.
Definitely away from the exhaust.
Nice video, look into a set of "tap sockets" they are made for this type of application.
Thanks! Another tool I didn't know existed, LOL!
An appropriate sized 12pt socket can also work in a pinch
Looks great nice clean job well donr
Thanks! I just made some improvements to it and I'm going to post a follow up vid soon.
You answered your own question its a tapered tap ie gets larger the deepen it goes
The Vice grip method is also what I came to as well. The Loctite was a nice insurance tip. I made my own catch can from a billet fuel filter I modified. Now I don’t have to make this video.
You never know when you'll need a pair of vice grips! How did you seal off the oil passages in the backplate?
tap socket.... it is an adapter that you use with a ratchet.
Cool, I will check that out. Thanks!
It gets tighter because of the taper.
@@edwardfaris8516 No he had to use that tap if he didn't the fitting would have only gone in the threads about 1 or 2 threads. Casting on the other hand you can pretty much tap it with a bolt, haha.
@@edwardfaris8516 It didn't appear that the fittings were tapered so would the tap then need to be?
@@edwardfaris8516 You might be able to get away with that with casting but no both sides are tapered.
@@edwardfaris8516 great
@@edwardfaris8516 If thats the case it will seal after the first 3 threads no matter how many threads were cut. If you look at your die it will also be tapered for the lead cuts.
I have 60k miles no issues
I hope that continues to be the case. Just curious, have you ever looked inside your cylinders with a camera? I'm not sure why carbon buildup happens on some more than others.
Would be interesting to see inside the cylinder head.
yeah definitely do a catch can.. oil dripping in front of rear wheel .. not such a good idea. no matter how little it is.. ;)
I just keep my oil half way on the dip stick while cold, on my Dyna and I NEVER get oil in my air filter.
Same here. The primary purpose of the bypass is to prevent oil mist from being pulled back into the engine. Even with a lower oil level, there is still some oil pulled back in.
Bring that hose in between the V and out the other side. And hose and barbs don’t need to be that big. Smaller hoses work better.
I had smaller barbs and hose on a different bike, it seemed to work OK. What I did here seems to be the more common size. I did make some changes to the routing and posted that in a later video.
2 tips Sir.
1: don't use carbon steel taps, a few dollars more for a H.S.S. or high speed steel tap, and you have one that will last much longer and perform better.
2 : for the record, tap and machine cast iron - dry. Do not use a lubricant or cutting oil on cast iron.
This in response to your statement in the video about tapping metals.
For those concerned about the silicone, if you are able to tap the holes, use what's called a grub screw or socket head set screw. I believe they're a 10- 24 or 10- 32 thread. Apologies I'm not in the shop right now to be specific.
I hope this helps 🙏
Hey, thanks for this. The backing plate is aluminum though.
wanna know a little secret: come here, closer, I'm a MASTER MACHINIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've tapped more holes than you can count.
Instead of silicone I used set screws with red locktite 4 years ago with no problems.
@@gaknskk I might do that one day 👍
It's a pipe tap. It will get harder as you go deeper.
That really was the hard way to modify the engine venting issue but each to there own.
Get a Metric bike, and you'll never have to deal with that kind of crap💩
@@ricardopr54 That's a hard pass my friend!
don't complain about it being a pain you did it with out a vice and much experience , good job .
Thanks buddy!! 👊
Next time you use an npt tap go out and buy a npt reamer. After drilling the hole to size ream it with the tapered npt reamer. This will give the hole the correct tapered shape and will allow you to hand tap with ease.
Awesome, thank you!
for a cleaner and safer look ,route hose between cylinders and straight down between motor case and transmission and secure on frame also install a small uni filter on end of hose instead of catch can
Yeah I'm already thinking about this. I like as little visible as possible.
Very well explained. I like that you listed all the parts used. Many youtubers don't do that. I think the clamps you used would work also well for other hoses on the Harley Engine. They look very well made and will not dig into rubber hoses or come loose.
Thanks Jack. I really like those clamps compared to the single screw hose clamp.
Great vid. One small suggestion: when you were screwing in the brass fittings, a set of ratcheting wrenches would have made that a snap vs. an open box wrench.
Noted, thanks!
As you said, the NPT (National Pipe Thread tap) is tapered, it is not meant to be tapped into the material all the way in, but rather in enough to allow for the treaded fitting you plan to install.
I have an Arlen Ness Big Sucker air cleaner assembly on my 2012 StreetGlide, and I did a very similar mod. to my Bike. I used fuel line hose, black ty-raps and routed the drain line fwd and down behind my fwd motor mount. I also ty-rapped a piece of cloth on the end of the tube (instead of a filter or catch can). It works great and almost invisible. I check everything including the air filter at each oil change. So far so good.
Awesome! I ended up redoing my routing much better. I'm going to post an update video soon.
Looks good. I did the same on my FLHTK but chose to go forward to a catch can instead of back. I used stainless rubber lined loom clamps attached to the front cylinder lifter cover to keep the hose from touching any part of the engine or exhaust, then routed the hose down over the back of the rear brake master cylinder (slight pain to route the hose) so that I could mount the DK catch can off of the back bolt of the rear brake master cylinder. I replaced the rear bolt with a 1 1/2 inch bolt, used a 1/2" steel spacer and another loom clamp to hang the catch can off set from touching any part of the bike. Used a dremel to clean up the loom clamps and shape them to fit nicely on the lifter cover so that there will be no scratching of the chrome.
You spent more time on it than I did!
Nice vid, been curious about this mod on my 21 bob with the 114, but as far as using grips, Amazon sells special sockets just for the tap. Plus you can also slide some stainless steel hose rap so the exhaust doesn't melt the hose.
Cool, thanks!
I really need to do this on my 2016 Softail Slim S but I’m INSANELY INTIMIDATED by the drilling & tapping process!😬😬 You made it look very easy, has there been any issues after using the bike?
No issues. I bet if you took the backing plate and the parts to a machine shop, they would do it while you wait, and it would not be very expensive.
What brand air filter is that ? Good lookin air cleaner
. I did a external breather on my trike and routed the line on right front side of the frame away from the exhaust using a catch can. Great video !
Thank you! Screamin' Eagle Ventilator with a K&N element.
Use a t handle for the tap.
On pipe thread use pipe dope , teflon tape, or … what I choose is NEVER SEIZE!!
Here is what I don't get. If you can ventilate pressure at the top of the case, why not just do that and plug the vent holes on the bolt???? I'm so misinformed by what the appropriate ventilation method is.
I'm not understanding...how you would ventilate pressure at the top of the case? The rocker covers seal the top end. The engine has to relieve pressure somehow, hence the breathers.
Just buy an air breather from DK customs that’s already set up for an external breather system.
I just drilled holes in the backing of my breather plate, ran 1/4” fuel line off the stock banjo bolts (or whatever they are called?) ran the line out the holes I drilled into a Tee, and then down by the bottom of the engine and let it vent there instead of into my breather intake.
Check out a video from “Infamous Creep” channel on how he did it. That’s who I copied. Super easy and works great
@robbyclark6915 There's many ways to go. I did the mod you describe on my Dyna, but the Touring doesn't have the same style bolts to do this. I also like the look of the Ventilator better than what DK has.
You can use a 12 point socket on that tap.
Good to know for anybody reading here, thanks. I made more of a project out of it than I needed to.
Looks good, I would use a catch can though. The O2 sensors get pretty hot
I don't follow you. What does the heat of the O2 sensors have to do with using a catch can?
@@bluesriderDF in your video you have the drain line next to the 02 sensors
@@gerry6310 Gotcha. I've since rerouted it and used a braided stainless steel line. Follow up video going up soon.
Did this and oil sprayed all over the back tire don’t understand why so much oil coming out redid the rocker
Wow, that doesn't sound right. Since I don't know you, don't be insulted if you already know what I'm going to say. You should check your oil level when the bike is hot, about a minute or two after you turn it off, with the bike on the side stand.
The level should be in the middle of the range on the stick.
If the oil level is too high it will expel it. If that's not an issue, then try posting on hdforums.
My breather bypass puts out a couple drops of oil per ride, if that.
@@bluesriderDF thank you I normally put it at the top range of the arrow so that means I did over fill the bike, I thought I might have tear down the rocker top and buy new breathers again
If you over fill oil level or just at full mark engine spits more oil. I keep my oil level right at 3/4 and it rarely spits anything.
Added catch can to your exact breather. Tried to let the catch can hang under breather but it wound up scuffing the powder coat on my case. Rerouted it down and behind my voltage regulator. I have more water in my can than oil. Good bit of water vapor til engine gets hot.
I had the same concern about a catch can scratching things up. I'm going to redo the hose routing but it's definitely going to the ground.
I went with a reusable filter mounted under the SGS, just a hose on the Sportster. Completely hidden and lower maintenance than a small catch can.
@freebehindbars8654 I had a filter like that on my Low Rider. But I just changed it straight to ground.
@@bluesriderDF That’s how I have the Sportster. That M8 stage 3 has more head pressure, so I didn’t want to mark up my garage.
I'm getting rid of catch can for a filter. Catch can gets filled with water from the vapor, and already is pretty rusted.
I appreciate your video. It’s more specific to the needs of my street glide special with the screaming eagle air cleaner on it. I’ll be looking at your other videos for advice. Thanks again.
Awesome, glad to help!
I did something similar but had a machinist do it. I had them weld up the oil channels to the intake so I don’t have to worry about anything being sucked in through those. It’s a K&N back plate.
I got some better tools since I did this job. 😂
If you don’t like the hose look, they do make different color wraps to go over that so it looks better
@@markpalumbo129 I don't even notice it now, honestly. I'm just glad that gunk isn't going in my engine.
I put the tap in my drill and just go real slow with the variable speed trigger! I’ve done this for years at work and it works well! Also,, i use a wax stick to keep the threads lubed! Just be careful to not go fast or the tap will break!
Wow, I don't think I'll try that!
@@bluesriderDF - most won’t! But i will say, I probably tap about 50 / 100 holes a day and haven’t had an issue in so long I can’t remember the last time i did.
@@Americanpatriot602 I've probably tapped less than 10 holes in my life 😂
@@bluesriderDF - 😂🤣 to each their own my friend! Just trying to help! At least you got it done! 👍🏼
@Americanpatriot602 Oh I really appreciate your comments and experience, very helpful. The very first time I ever tapped something was redoing threads on an intake manifold on my car, when I was about 20yo. The bolts for the thermostat housing snapped. I was about crapping myself!
This is just one of those things. I don't do often enough to get very good at.
NPT is a tapered thread. Starts small gets bigger. That's why it gets tighter. Turned out great. Nice job
Thanks!
Use a cresent wrench.
I like your style and funny the Exxon Valdez pun 😂
LOL, thanks! I try to bring a little humor to things when I can.
They make long shank taps, might be worth the investment.
There's an endless supply of tools, LOL
Hi great material very nice mounted ;)
Thanks!
You should have used Chrome hose that you could tuck
Yes, I'm already thinking about what I'm going to improve.
Nicely done! Thank you for the video.
Thanks for watching!
I have a 14 sgs . with Arlen Ness big sucker. Never had oil issues. But I also have 2020 lrs with s s intake...now I have oil blow by issue. About to get vented dipstick.
Even if you don't have oil on your filter, it's still sucking that oil in and eventually fouling your pistons and valves with carbon
@@bluesriderDF Iv used a scope to see how much carbon on piston (via plug hole) the sgs has some dry ,thin ,in center of piston.55 k ...but the 2020 lrs has more carbon and wet looking. 15 k .
@chip9832 I've done that too, it varies from bike to bike. I'm glad I got my SGS done before I got too many more miles on it.
@@bluesriderDF and the hot air robbing you of horse power
Did u use the correct tap drill size
Yes sir. The taper is the cause of it.
What size brass fittings were they ?
See link in description
Dk customs makes a transformer plate done in minutes....
Is that the $225 Transformer System?
Yes it is . Definitely pricey but worry free of screwing up !
@Chris Gaskill I prefer the looks of the Screamin' Eagle intakes I have on my bikes, but DK is a good option for a bolt-on solution. A lot of people already have the SE and just want to vent it
I've been thinking about get the DK Transformer the only thing that is stopping me is they say that you have to use their air cleaner which a K&N and I already have a K&N but DK said My K&N Would not work. Looks exactly the same flat back and all. And that's what they say they're is. SMH
@Ronnie Saunders One option to do this mod without all the hassle is to take your backing plate and fittings to a machine shop. In addition to cutting threads for the fittings, you could have them cut threads in the existing oil passage ways and then you could install plugs with red lock tight to seal them up. I can't imagine they would charge that much.
Is it catching anything?
I'm venting to ground. I get a drop or 2 on the garage floor every once in a while.
Check this vid:
ua-cam.com/video/nrhJC6ibxFI/v-deo.htmlsi=FouzuDEWE6L9zUCw
Instead of squeezing silicone into the passages tap the holes same as you did holes you drilled and put in screws or headless Allen screws with lock tight
I ended up replacing the silicone with JB Weld.
@@bluesriderDF ya better than silicone for sure
A good bit of oil means you have too much oil in the bike.
"A good bit of oil" in this context was a few drops, which is normal and expected when the oil level is midway between the hash marks on the stick, checked a couple minutes after turning off a hot bike.
So no, you are not correct that there was too much oil on the bike.
Not true
Yep,good mod. Only problem could be breaks the laws on emissions in some countries.
Dk customs has a nice breather kit
I like the charcoal pearl color I got the same
Thanks!
Great work and great solution.
Thanks!!
Why would you not just replace bolt with no holes. So oil stays in engine. And not exit anything
This is a breather, and if it were clogged or sealed up, the pressure would increase and blow out oil seals, such as rocker gaskets. The engine can also overheat and misfire.