Find it here in the U.S. www.shootsmallgroups.com/product/universal-rollsizer/ and for international go here www.rollsizer.com to find a dealer near you.
John, you can grow this channel so much by doing reviews on stuff because you are born to explain and make regular people understand things in simple way. Please explore other stuff in long range world and prs. Don’t be afraid you are just natural at explaining things and bringing it to user in simple way.
Glad to see this is getting attention in the precision market. Ive had one of his originals for years with 9mm, 45, and 556 and love it. In ipcic and just general tring with classes there is no practical way to segregate your brass and well always end up with mix brass. Before this we had to check every round on a case guage and hope you caught a buldged one. It was especially bad if someone had a glock around. Ive never seen a product be able to truly return a case back to factory specs so well and do it so easily. At least from a forumer speed shooters prospective that dealt more with these issues its been well worth the money.
Got manual roll sizer same year that Aussi offered it here in N America - the best thing for my Glock brass 223 and 300 blackout! anneal my rifle brass and wow! Roll size fired case then FL size is soooo much smoother. Great review
Does it matter if you roll it before you resize the brass because it would seem to me that if you resize it after you roll it that you gonna flare the bottom out as you push the brass down?
I bought one earlier this year and tested it against unrolled brass. I see no change in scores or POI using it. It eliminates the clickers and doesnt affect the desired precision- win, win
I am really curious about this device for benchrest competition - How often are you using it, and how many firings before the clicking comes back? Clicking brass will definitely ruin your day at a big match!
I'm glad you touched on the small base die issue, cause that was going to be my question. For my 6.5 prc I bought Erik Cortina's expander mandrel die, because he specifically makes them like a small base die at the bottom to help squeeze that base back down. Since I've been using them I've had no issues with the base growing. I usually run my brass through it two times per case. Once, then rotate 90 and run it up through again.
Appreciate this video very much. A lot was put out in a short period. Was aware of this long ago. Uspsa shooters like it for that 9 major and 38super. The comparison you showed however, of affected area. Good to know. Thank you!
Thank you John! Great video. This roll sizer is exactly what I need. My FL sizing die leaves a bulge, and therefor case will not fit into my Micron Arbor die.
Very curious to see if over time , that the case head web to base portion is work hardened enough at a higher rate than just FL RS, , since annealing is not present there and work is being done. Are you seeing much spring back as you get 4 and 5 cycles on the roller , so you have to dial in the Mic a thou or more? May not be a issue.
When you open the bolt after shooting the round and it’s stiff. It hits the top of the action hard and clicks because the case has expanded at the base and gets stuck.
Its when the brass at the .200 line expands under pressure too close to the chamber dimension at same location with not enough spring back making case tight during ejection cycle. You feel a slight binding at the end of the bolt lift.
@jeffnichols5176 Was VERY excited when I came across this to address bulges above the belt on 300WM and 7Mag... Sadly this tool cannot accommodate belted Magnums....
I do not reload belted cases myself but it sounds like you are sizing your brass too much. The weakest point is above the belt so it gets stretched and compressed the most. You can test inside the case if there is irregularity above belt, if so then I assume you oughta scrap them. Usually there is once you can see it from outside.
Very tight case after firing. Bolt makes a click when it rips it out SAAMI Specs A “clicker” refers to the clicking sound when a bolt “lets go” while extracting a semi-stuck case. It hits a hard stop for bolt opening at the top of the extraction ramp.
Essentially, the brass has stretched larger than the actual chamber is, which makes the bolt lugs be under pressure because they are in an interference fit now, when your bolt hits the opening that click that you hear is your bolt releasing off the lugs and popping back to the length of the case, very very minuscule stuff happening but it'll cause your problems nonetheless
In testing so far it's largely more in the function side of things, however the easier and more consistent functioning seems to be translating to more consistent groups for me.
Very, very interesting. But only a comparison, conventional and this tool , same caliber, components and rifle would provide real world results. Thanks.
So do clickers only happen, when pressure is pushed up at or beyond the limit? Or is it a reamer/ chamber related? I know you touched on it in the video. Just want to understand abit more tbh. I have a 6.5 PRC, and a few people said I'd have many issues, but its been fine, not had clickers etc and brass on the 7th firing.
Most PRC chambers are called "PRC" due to the tighter tolerance at the .200 line. It sounds like your chamber was likely reamed slightly larger at that line. Measure you brass at that .200 line and see what it is. This will help you see what your reamer did. Also some brass is harder at the case base and won't expand as much as fast, but certainly will when it expands enough to match the reamer spec of your chamber. Hornady for instance is a soft brass and expands quickly (also shows swipers at less pressure)....ADG is a harder brass. Lapua is good as well, but I still had clickers at 3 firings and heavy bolt at 5 with Lapua. This RollSizer eliminated those issues.
flooded3456 hit it on the mark (200 line punn intended). Clicking brass can happen at normal and higher pressures especially if your chamber is tight at the .200 line and the sizing die is "normal" or a little loose - even 1/2 thou will make a difference sometimes. I fought my first 2 reamers trying to find a sizing die that would work . Realized it was due to the reamer being slightly undersized and the sizing dies (multiple high end to off the shelf small base dies) not bringing the base down much more than .0005. I ordered a new reamer with the .200 line .001 over the previous spec and now my dies size the .200 line .001-.0015 depending on the die and no clicks. I am sure there are others with different experience and no clicks and those with clicks, but I am a proponent of "fat" chambers vs tight/small when it comes to the .200 line dimension.
maybe a dumb question but in all 3 calibers of the PRCs i have had the "clicker" issue, first with my 6.5 than the 300, so i got ahold of the AW2 reamer and "fixed" the chamber, for the 7 i just ordered my own AW2 and "fix" it before it was ever fired, so the question come down to over working the brass with this new rollsizer ... if my chambers are already cut to reduce/eliminate the clicker issues would roll sizing not lead to over working the brass and it will now expand with every firing? the PRCs are the only calibers i reload for that have had this issue so they are my only reference and I've been using bushing dies and mandrels to minimize the working of my brass to extend its life along with annealing... maybe this is a grand i just dont need to spend
Think this might reduce 'belting' we see in the 6mm arc community we see from time to time. Also, does this change how one should anneal? Like, should one anneal heavily reused brass to the base and then roll?
@Greg-v7n Well, yeah, obviously. But the question is, how does the Rollsizer accommodate both tapered and straight case walls? If you have knowledge about this I would be very grateful for an answer.
I have had problems reloading Lake City 308 brass due to bulging a FL die can't size enough. I had loaded some and got to the range and a few wouldn't chamber I never gave it a thought while loading them they all resized normally. Measuring every one is just not going to be fun so I made a bushing in my lathe that the inside diameter is the minimal size that the brass will fit in my chamber if it won't fall through the bushing it won't fit the chamber of my .308. Believe me this process isn't any fun either for a while I would chamber the empty pieces of brass prior to reloading and again no fun. I solved my problem by buying Lapua brass and put the Lake City away now I need a buddy that has one of these doubt I will ever have one.
@@FClassJohn Couldn't it theoretically work if you use the "large" side of the pointy finger plate so the belted mag cases drop down a little bit further?
It's not designed to tighten primer pockets but it's been reported that if used on new brass it'll help keep them a little tighter but I haven't tested that yet.
As I said in the video, he doesn't promote this as a way to tighten primer pockets. I've heard some people claim it does but maybe at best it just keeps the brass in better shape to it can't open up as easily?? Not really sure yet on that one.
No the rollsizers don't crush size down the primer pockets directly. We do see a lot of anecdotal evidence that the rate of stretch of the pockets reduces a lot giving longer life (personal and from others). But once they are loose....we routinely get 40+ reloads with rollsizing in pistol in Aus
Cast your chamber and sizing die, you should not have to use a SB die. I just figured out what was going on with my 6.5 CMs my Ruger chamber is .008” longer than my Tikka. I bought Hornaday dies and I was able to get a .002” bump fine, I was not able to close the bolt on the Tikka with this sized brass. I bought a RCBS die set and the length worked, but the diameter was.001” smaller than the Hornaday sizing die and the finish was a little rough. I stoned the RCBS sizing die then polished it with diamond compound. Bottom line, don’t assume anything, overlapping tolerances can play havoc
@ the problem brass was fired in a military gun possibly machine gun known for over sized chambers and would not size down to fit my ar10. The real fix for me is to buy better brass! Everthing I have chambered and fired in my firearm sizes fine.
Perfect for my 300 wsm and 7 prc. Also the 6.5 and 300 prc cartridges. Some people are still getting clickers after using the prc-w and prcw2 reamers. This tool may be the answer for clickers and max loads.
No way a competitive shooter or a wanna be,,just a shooter who likes to use military brass for my varmint shooting for cost reasons. The small base dies help but at the risk of a stuck case from over reaching my equipment,,,this would be so helpful…..
This is way over thought for the prep of brass and its longevity. With all the gadgets out there now one should buy a lathe and mill. This roller contraption only pushes on the high side of the tapered brass where the bearings meet. Unless these bearing surfaces can self align with the case your not doing shit. This a novelty IMO. You were measuring where the brass doesn't expand. You need better tools and knowledge. The calipers where you measured from is to low. The only part that will expand is above the case head. If the case head expanded you have flattened the prime pocket. One way to see if the brass is outside the specs is to place it in a lathe on a fixture you will have to make. Then run a indicator from the case base to the neck.Sorry for the bashing. But this is a joke
I understand you're trying to sell something, but the First Words out of your mouth were a lie. Brass is not getting hard to find. So I'm done listening to you
Find it here in the U.S. www.shootsmallgroups.com/product/universal-rollsizer/ and for international go here www.rollsizer.com to find a dealer near you.
John, you can grow this channel so much by doing reviews on stuff because you are born to explain and make regular people understand things in simple way. Please explore other stuff in long range world and prs. Don’t be afraid you are just natural at explaining things and bringing it to user in simple way.
That's very kind of you.
Well, beyond the product, the video was well done and the studio light and clarity are perfect.
Glad to see this is getting attention in the precision market. Ive had one of his originals for years with 9mm, 45, and 556 and love it. In ipcic and just general tring with classes there is no practical way to segregate your brass and well always end up with mix brass. Before this we had to check every round on a case guage and hope you caught a buldged one. It was especially bad if someone had a glock around. Ive never seen a product be able to truly return a case back to factory specs so well and do it so easily. At least from a forumer speed shooters prospective that dealt more with these issues its been well worth the money.
Got manual roll sizer same year that Aussi offered it here in N America - the best thing for my Glock brass 223 and 300 blackout!
anneal my rifle brass and wow! Roll size fired case then FL size is soooo much smoother.
Great review
Does it matter if you roll it before you resize the brass because it would seem to me that if you resize it after you roll it that you gonna flare the bottom out as you push the brass down?
I bought one earlier this year and tested it against unrolled brass. I see no change in scores or POI using it. It eliminates the clickers and doesnt affect the desired precision- win, win
I am really curious about this device for benchrest competition - How often are you using it, and how many firings before the clicking comes back? Clicking brass will definitely ruin your day at a big match!
Very Glad you are posting this. I have been looking into this product so it's great to see some video around it. Thank you!
I'm glad you touched on the small base die issue, cause that was going to be my question. For my 6.5 prc I bought Erik Cortina's expander mandrel die, because he specifically makes them like a small base die at the bottom to help squeeze that base back down. Since I've been using them I've had no issues with the base growing. I usually run my brass through it two times per case. Once, then rotate 90 and run it up through again.
Thanks John, great video, very interesting piece of kit.
Appreciate this video very much. A lot was put out in a short period. Was aware of this long ago. Uspsa shooters like it for that 9 major and 38super.
The comparison you showed however, of affected area. Good to know. Thank you!
Thank you John! Great video. This roll sizer is exactly what I need. My FL sizing die leaves a bulge, and therefor case will not fit into my Micron Arbor die.
I think this actually works really well and range brass especially those that are shooting 45s
Very curious to see if over time , that the case head web to base portion is work hardened enough at a higher rate than just FL RS, , since annealing is not present there and work is being done. Are you seeing much spring back as you get 4 and 5 cycles on the roller , so you have to dial in the Mic a thou or more? May not be a issue.
Excellent presentation!!!
Thanks, Very informative. Really nice tool.....but I wonder if a small base die, using a single stage press, would give us the same dimensions?
Does this have to be used frequently?
What is a "clicker"?
When you open the bolt after shooting the round and it’s stiff. It hits the top of the action hard and clicks because the case has expanded at the base and gets stuck.
Its when the brass at the .200 line expands under pressure too close to the chamber dimension at same location with not enough spring back making case tight during ejection cycle. You feel a slight binding at the end of the bolt lift.
A clicker is when the bolt clicks (pops) at the end of its rotational travel because of a dimensionally oversized base to chamber fit.
Do they make one for belted magnums? My 7mm Rem Mag brass gets a nasty bulge right above the belt that the regular die doesn't touch.
No
@jeffnichols5176
Was VERY excited when I came across this to address bulges above the belt on 300WM and 7Mag...
Sadly this tool cannot accommodate belted Magnums....
I do not reload belted cases myself but it sounds like you are sizing your brass too much. The weakest point is above the belt so it gets stretched and compressed the most.
You can test inside the case if there is irregularity above belt, if so then I assume you oughta scrap them. Usually there is once you can see it from outside.
What is a clicker?
Very tight case after firing. Bolt makes a click when it rips it out
SAAMI Specs
A “clicker” refers to the clicking sound when a bolt “lets go” while extracting a semi-stuck case. It hits a hard stop for bolt opening at the top of the extraction ramp.
Essentially, the brass has stretched larger than the actual chamber is, which makes the bolt lugs be under pressure because they are in an interference fit now, when your bolt hits the opening that click that you hear is your bolt releasing off the lugs and popping back to the length of the case, very very minuscule stuff happening but it'll cause your problems nonetheless
A clicker is when the bolt clicks (pops) at the end of its rotational travel because of a dimensionally oversized base to chamber fit.
I just got the mini and hooked an Amazon motor to it!
In the competition community, this is known as "Buying Points" if you are experiencing clickers. This is a very interesting piece of equipment
This is awesome
Thanks! I would like to see some group comparisons to see if it helps, or is it just for function?
In testing so far it's largely more in the function side of things, however the easier and more consistent functioning seems to be translating to more consistent groups for me.
@FClassJohn Makes sense, thanks. Have a good one!
Been using one for over six years
Very, very interesting. But only a comparison, conventional and this tool , same caliber, components and rifle would provide real world results. Thanks.
Nice info
So do clickers only happen, when pressure is pushed up at or beyond the limit? Or is it a reamer/ chamber related? I know you touched on it in the video. Just want to understand abit more tbh.
I have a 6.5 PRC, and a few people said I'd have many issues, but its been fine, not had clickers etc and brass on the 7th firing.
Most PRC chambers are called "PRC" due to the tighter tolerance at the .200 line. It sounds like your chamber was likely reamed slightly larger at that line. Measure you brass at that .200 line and see what it is. This will help you see what your reamer did. Also some brass is harder at the case base and won't expand as much as fast, but certainly will when it expands enough to match the reamer spec of your chamber. Hornady for instance is a soft brass and expands quickly (also shows swipers at less pressure)....ADG is a harder brass. Lapua is good as well, but I still had clickers at 3 firings and heavy bolt at 5 with Lapua. This RollSizer eliminated those issues.
flooded3456 hit it on the mark (200 line punn intended). Clicking brass can happen at normal and higher pressures especially if your chamber is tight at the .200 line and the sizing die is "normal" or a little loose - even 1/2 thou will make a difference sometimes. I fought my first 2 reamers trying to find a sizing die that would work . Realized it was due to the reamer being slightly undersized and the sizing dies (multiple high end to off the shelf small base dies) not bringing the base down much more than .0005. I ordered a new reamer with the .200 line .001 over the previous spec and now my dies size the .200 line .001-.0015 depending on the die and no clicks. I am sure there are others with different experience and no clicks and those with clicks, but I am a proponent of "fat" chambers vs tight/small when it comes to the .200 line dimension.
If the rollsizer reliable fixes clickers, than that alone is worth the purchase price.
maybe a dumb question but in all 3 calibers of the PRCs i have had the "clicker" issue, first with my 6.5 than the 300, so i got ahold of the AW2 reamer and "fixed" the chamber, for the 7 i just ordered my own AW2 and "fix" it before it was ever fired, so the question come down to over working the brass with this new rollsizer ... if my chambers are already cut to reduce/eliminate the clicker issues would roll sizing not lead to over working the brass and it will now expand with every firing?
the PRCs are the only calibers i reload for that have had this issue so they are my only reference and I've been using bushing dies and mandrels to minimize the working of my brass to extend its life along with annealing... maybe this is a grand i just dont need to spend
Think this might reduce 'belting' we see in the 6mm arc community we see from time to time. Also, does this change how one should anneal? Like, should one anneal heavily reused brass to the base and then roll?
No
We make a wildcat forming dies that can pretty much turn anything into anything 👍👍
How does one set it above the belt on belted magnums ?
Is the sizer parallel or tapered?
That was my first thought as well
Most bottle neck cartridges are tapered, but there are straight walled rifle and revolver rounds
@Greg-v7n Well, yeah, obviously. But the question is, how does the Rollsizer accommodate both tapered and straight case walls? If you have knowledge about this I would be very grateful for an answer.
I'm just assuming it won't work on belted magnum's like the 300 WM.
Correct. I’ve been told it won’t work on belted mags.
I have had problems reloading Lake City 308 brass due to bulging a FL die can't size enough. I had loaded some and got to the range and a few wouldn't chamber I never gave it a thought while loading them they all resized normally. Measuring every one is just not going to be fun so I made a bushing in my lathe that the inside diameter is the minimal size that the brass will fit in my chamber if it won't fall through the bushing it won't fit the chamber of my .308. Believe me this process isn't any fun either for a while I would chamber the empty pieces of brass prior to reloading and again no fun. I solved my problem by buying Lapua brass and put the Lake City away now I need a buddy that has one of these doubt I will ever have one.
I've known about these for 9mm for a long time. I didn't know they were making them for rifle rounds.
Wouldn’t work hardening the brass cause more case head separations in the long run?
I was just about to ask the same question.
It has too lead to more case head seps, there’s really no way around it
Avoid hot loads, problem solved. If you need more hp, get a bigger round, don’t blow your face off
@@Greg-v7n lol irrelevant comment
I've wanted one for 9mm for a while.
How does one set it for 7mm Mag and 30-378 Weatherby?
Follow up to the- how is it set for belted magnums ?
My understanding is that it’s not for use on belted mags.
@@FClassJohn Couldn't it theoretically work if you use the "large" side of the pointy finger plate so the belted mag cases drop down a little bit further?
Would this tighten primer pockets on rifle brass? Looks like it should.
It's not designed to tighten primer pockets but it's been reported that if used on new brass it'll help keep them a little tighter but I haven't tested that yet.
Please! What is a "Klicker"? Thank you!
Is "clicker" case head separation?
Would annealing the base ruin it, or would it get work hardened again during the process?
DO NOT ANNEAL THE BASE!The case will blow up.
@ErikCortina Thanks, Erik. I could hear you all the way up in northern BC. Lol.
Ask Erik how he lost his left index finger. @peaceriver7808
Interesting thing to consider. 950 is a hefty investment though...
Does this help with blown out primer pockets and resizing to reuse brass ?
As I said in the video, he doesn't promote this as a way to tighten primer pockets. I've heard some people claim it does but maybe at best it just keeps the brass in better shape to it can't open up as easily?? Not really sure yet on that one.
No the rollsizers don't crush size down the primer pockets directly. We do see a lot of anecdotal evidence that the rate of stretch of the pockets reduces a lot giving longer life (personal and from others). But once they are loose....we routinely get 40+ reloads with rollsizing in pistol in Aus
@@FClassJohn thank you for your response
@@rollsizer5623 thank you for your response
I asked him if he would make a motorized version of this for the 6.5prc. Adding one more step of 300 pcs of brass isn't ideal.
how does this differ from using a small base die???
That would probably fix my military brass (308) that still will not chamber after small base sizing.
Cast your chamber and sizing die, you should not have to use a SB die. I just figured out what was going on with my 6.5 CMs my Ruger chamber is .008” longer than my Tikka. I bought Hornaday dies and I was able to get a .002” bump fine, I was not able to close the bolt on the Tikka with this sized brass. I bought a RCBS die set and the length worked, but the diameter was.001” smaller than the Hornaday sizing die and the finish was a little rough. I stoned the RCBS sizing die then polished it with diamond compound. Bottom line, don’t assume anything, overlapping tolerances can play havoc
@ the problem brass was fired in a military gun possibly machine gun known for over sized chambers and would not size down to fit my ar10. The real fix for me is to buy better brass! Everthing I have chambered and fired in my firearm sizes fine.
Sounds like a clicker is the worst thing in the world. WHats a clicker?
😊😊😊😊😊
Great for pistol however it does nothing small base die does not already do
Perfect for my 300 wsm and 7 prc. Also the 6.5 and 300 prc cartridges. Some people are still getting clickers after using the prc-w and prcw2 reamers. This tool may be the answer for clickers and max loads.
what in the heck are clickers
I need this for my 37xc brass!
No way a competitive shooter or a wanna be,,just a shooter who likes to use military brass for my varmint shooting for cost reasons. The small base dies help but at the risk of a stuck case from over reaching my equipment,,,this would be so helpful…..
Dude has almost 4k in Booger bullets that I can see lol. 😂
Doesn’t look like it would work for gas guns very well.
$950
This is way over thought for the prep of brass and its longevity. With all the gadgets out there now one should buy a lathe and mill. This roller contraption only pushes on the high side of the tapered brass where the bearings meet. Unless these bearing surfaces can self align with the case your not doing shit. This a novelty IMO. You were measuring where the brass doesn't expand. You need better tools and knowledge. The calipers where you measured from is to low. The only part that will expand is above the case head. If the case head expanded you have flattened the prime pocket. One way to see if the brass is outside the specs is to place it in a lathe on a fixture you will have to make. Then run a indicator from the case base to the neck.Sorry for the bashing. But this is a joke
I understand you're trying to sell something, but the First Words out of your mouth were a lie. Brass is not getting hard to find. So I'm done listening to you
Oh, so let's ignore that Lapua stopped production on some brass due to geopolitical events?
I'm struggling with clickers at the moment. Looks like a great tool sucks it's so pricey.
Back off charge weight until the clickers go away. Don’t blow your face off!. You might consider a lighter bullet, or more suitable powder