Under Hood Light - Only $15 - Installed on my 2021 Toyota Tacoma
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- Опубліковано 18 гру 2021
- Instagram: SeanS54
Inexpensive under hood light installed on my 2021 Toyota Tacoma. Definitely worth the $15.00! This universal light installs in any car, truck, or boat.
Under Hood LED Light Kit
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Tacoma LED Interior Lights
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Tacoma Organizer Tray
amzn.to/32phZHo - Авто та транспорт
TOO CLEAN DUDE. Great work.
That plunger switch is a clever add.
I added a light to my trailer tongue box and put in a light sensor so it only activates the light if the ambient is dark. This probably matters more on a trailer with a stand-alone battery but it was a cheap buy. When I do my hood I was always just going to add a switch, now I'll be adding the light sensor along with your plunger switch.
Can you elaborate more or put a link for the light sensor?
@@lwjl8893
In my tongue box I glued (RTV of some sort?) a magnetic reed switch near the hinge (wired side of switch on box side and unwired side, just a magnet in a plastic housing, to the lid) and then glued a "12vdc photocell" (Amazon has them from $8 and up, find one with a housing shape that will fit your install location) so the "eye" protrudes from under a lip inside the box so it can sense the ambient light condition. I mounted the photocell as far from my light fixture as practical and angled away a bit, and then verified it worked by covering "eye" and again at night to ensure the license plate light did not trick it into thinking it was daylight. I glued a pair of license plate lights under that same lip in my box. All of it is out of harms way when loading crap into or out and it almost completely out of sight, until the lights come on and it's full daylight inside the box.
The magnetic reed switch has three terminals, a negative (?), a "normally open" (NO) contact, and a "normally closed" (NC) contact. You'll use only two of these. For this application you want the normally closed terminal so the reed switch is not connected with magnet near the base. The other terminal (NO) is unwired. This way anytime the lid is opened the light circuit is completed (either light on or power applied to photocell, see next). If the lid is closed, no circuit, no light and no power drain.
The photocell also has three wires but you need all three this time. Most have a simple wire diagram on side of cell. Basically you add cell into you circuit using "pos" and "neg" lines, but connect your license plate light fixture to that same neg AND the "load" line. The cell has a small microprocessor that needs power to operate, and then it only passes power thru to "load" if it senses darkness.
Both are wired in series, battery positive --> reed switch (see above for NO vs NC) --> photocell (see above for "load" connection) --> license plate light (or several) --> back to battery negative.
I hope this makes sense and helps you out. All cheap stuff from Amazon, and good DIY project. Get the kids involved and lay it out on a piece of scrap wood and bring it over to the battery to test and play with it, good simple teaching tool for basic electricity.
Badass videos helping me alot with my 2021 taco
You did a very clean install!
great video, thanks for the explanation
Great video! I will also install it on my car. It's very useful. 👍
If only my father had this back in the 90s i wouldn't be holding the damn flashlight and getting yelled at, DAMMIT, I found this on AliExpress and I'm getting two thank you for making this video
I could never hold the flashlight right either! 🤣
Thank You so much!!
2 years later. How well does that one work and is it still bright?
How many hours open before draining the batt?
That helps. Bought mine on ebay. Didn't come with instructions.
I’m curious why the fuse is on the ground n not the positive?
Shouldn't be, you're right
@@andrejwalilko634 I switch it cause I wasn’t comfortable with the power not being fuse
Awkward. Why did they really do put the fuse on the ground anyways?
@@lwjl8893 yea I didn’t understand it either but I switch it tho