I sent the injectors to central plains diesel (www.centralplainsdiesel.com/) and said the name wrong in the video. They have a proper Bosch test stand and are super responsive whenever I sent a message. Definitely will be my go-to in the future.
From what I understand the 05/06 can be re-coded butt it isn't really necessary. I may do mine in the future if I can see a way to do it for free. I haven't tried the snapon scanner at work yet. Really it just gets them super close so the fuel trim doesn't take as long to correct anything itself. Just driving for a while will have the same effect as putting in the codes.
It was some random brand on Amazon that looked like it was made in the same factory as the others. It was like $20 instead of $60, so I took the risk. It sucked and if I have to pull injectors again I plan on buying a nicer kit.
Hi on end of the video the knocking sounds gone do you know the raison of this sound I have same sprinter 3500 2006 I changed the injectors seals black death When I started it started with same sound on your video knocking
I watched the end again and it sounds like lifter tick to me. One of mine must have stuck a bit from sitting and started working again after getting slapped a bit by the cam. Unfortuneately if you have one that won't stop ticking and needs to be replaced it would take removing the cam tray. It's not a horrible job, but you will have to also remove the timing chain from the exhaust cam. Any chance you can post a video of your ticking sound?
The flat side goes against the injector, and the rounded/cone/taper side, whatever you want to call it goes down into the cylinder and contacts the cylinder head. Here is a timestamp in the video where I try to show it: ua-cam.com/video/joWN0V0_VOI/v-deo.html You should be able to put the seal on something flat and check both sides. On one side the outside edge will sit nice and flat all the way around. That side faced up and contacts the injector. The other side should make the outside edge stick up off the surface a tiny bit. That goes down and contacts the cylinder head. The idea is that the copper washer will be a close shape to each surface and provide a better seal. Really the whole point of using a copper washer is that the material is soft enough to deform into the shape it needs to be to make a seal. On my VW diesel some people (not me) have tightened the hold down bolt too tight and cracked the cylinder head trying to stop a leak. It's really a lot a force on that copper seal and leaks are normally from not cleaning the surface of the head and injector, or already having a groove from a previous leak that got too bad.
63 in lb, the 6 was kinda quiet and I was doing it in my head. Math says 61.95 in lb. Edit - just noticed I already replied to your other comment :D Trying to catch up a bit
When I had the main bearing failure, I sold them to a buddy of mine. He suspected his injectors were on the way out and didn't want to wait for replacements. That van gets used to bring their peices to art shows all over the country, so tons more miles than I would have done, and they are running strong for him. I've been using his old injectors, but will use the same place (central plains diesel) when I replace these.
There is a decent hole in the exhaust right on the bracket for the rubber hanger before the catalyst. I welded up as much as I could but there is still a bit of a leak.
When I was swapping engines I had one broken on the donar. I convinced Time-Sert to sell me their kit that is no longer listed and still failed to remove it. I had another head, so didn't have to deal with having it properly removed and fixed, but yes, it's a horrible thing to have to deal with!
It's a high temperature ceramic grease, also good for glow plugs. www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-injector-nozzle-and-glow-plug-lubricant-febi-000989425110
@@smsauce thank you, just ordered it, i'm doing both injectors and glow plugs next week and this is the last thing I needed to get! thanks for the video !
The stuff in the bottom was almost like cement. With such an old van and knowing these are not the original injectors it's likely the previous owner was not careful cleaning them out. Whatever gunk fell down in was then compressed by the hold down bolt and then baked as they drove it. On a few of the holes the bottom is very thin with water jacket on the other side. It's super easy to blow a hole through those as well. When I swapped out the original injectors in a buddy's well maintained van, they were just a quick blast with air to clear out. My van seems to have had a very hard life before I got it 😆 🤣
I sent the injectors to central plains diesel (www.centralplainsdiesel.com/) and said the name wrong in the video. They have a proper Bosch test stand and are super responsive whenever I sent a message. Definitely will be my go-to in the future.
Well done buddy, that's the job no one wants to do on a T1N..... Thanks for uploading
Thank you for the video, great!
Did you have to do any sort of programming for the ECU? I have seen people say you need to recode it for new injectors.
From what I understand the 05/06 can be re-coded butt it isn't really necessary. I may do mine in the future if I can see a way to do it for free. I haven't tried the snapon scanner at work yet.
Really it just gets them super close so the fuel trim doesn't take as long to correct anything itself. Just driving for a while will have the same effect as putting in the codes.
Hi, what brand injector puller kit did you purchase?
It was some random brand on Amazon that looked like it was made in the same factory as the others. It was like $20 instead of $60, so I took the risk. It sucked and if I have to pull injectors again I plan on buying a nicer kit.
Hi on end of the video the knocking sounds gone do you know the raison of this sound
I have same sprinter 3500 2006 I changed the injectors seals black death
When I started it started with same sound on your video knocking
I watched the end again and it sounds like lifter tick to me. One of mine must have stuck a bit from sitting and started working again after getting slapped a bit by the cam. Unfortuneately if you have one that won't stop ticking and needs to be replaced it would take removing the cam tray. It's not a horrible job, but you will have to also remove the timing chain from the exhaust cam. Any chance you can post a video of your ticking sound?
Flat side of washer on bottom, and round side against injector ?
The flat side goes against the injector, and the rounded/cone/taper side, whatever you want to call it goes down into the cylinder and contacts the cylinder head. Here is a timestamp in the video where I try to show it:
ua-cam.com/video/joWN0V0_VOI/v-deo.html
You should be able to put the seal on something flat and check both sides. On one side the outside edge will sit nice and flat all the way around. That side faced up and contacts the injector. The other side should make the outside edge stick up off the surface a tiny bit. That goes down and contacts the cylinder head. The idea is that the copper washer will be a close shape to each surface and provide a better seal.
Really the whole point of using a copper washer is that the material is soft enough to deform into the shape it needs to be to make a seal. On my VW diesel some people (not me) have tightened the hold down bolt too tight and cracked the cylinder head trying to stop a leak. It's really a lot a force on that copper seal and leaks are normally from not cleaning the surface of the head and injector, or already having a groove from a previous leak that got too bad.
Hi, Do you said that 7nm = 3 inch pound?
63 in lb, the 6 was kinda quiet and I was doing it in my head. Math says 61.95 in lb. Edit - just noticed I already replied to your other comment :D Trying to catch up a bit
any issues with injectors since installing
When I had the main bearing failure, I sold them to a buddy of mine. He suspected his injectors were on the way out and didn't want to wait for replacements. That van gets used to bring their peices to art shows all over the country, so tons more miles than I would have done, and they are running strong for him.
I've been using his old injectors, but will use the same place (central plains diesel) when I replace these.
20:24 ...what's with all the smoke? 🤔 that looks Interesting.
There is a decent hole in the exhaust right on the bracket for the rubber hanger before the catalyst. I welded up as much as I could but there is still a bit of a leak.
you heard of guys breaking that bolt off in the head? I'm that guy lol it cost $900 to remove it at a shop.
When I was swapping engines I had one broken on the donar. I convinced Time-Sert to sell me their kit that is no longer listed and still failed to remove it. I had another head, so didn't have to deal with having it properly removed and fixed, but yes, it's a horrible thing to have to deal with!
What grease are you using to coat the injectors?
It's a high temperature ceramic grease, also good for glow plugs.
www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-injector-nozzle-and-glow-plug-lubricant-febi-000989425110
@@smsauce thank you! You think this is better than an anti seize ?
@10inja That's what it's for, just ceramic instead of nickel so it has an even higher temperature rating.
@@smsauce thank you, just ordered it, i'm doing both injectors and glow plugs next week and this is the last thing I needed to get! thanks for the video !
Why not use compressed air to blow debris out of the bolt hole?
The stuff in the bottom was almost like cement. With such an old van and knowing these are not the original injectors it's likely the previous owner was not careful cleaning them out. Whatever gunk fell down in was then compressed by the hold down bolt and then baked as they drove it. On a few of the holes the bottom is very thin with water jacket on the other side. It's super easy to blow a hole through those as well. When I swapped out the original injectors in a buddy's well maintained van, they were just a quick blast with air to clear out. My van seems to have had a very hard life before I got it 😆 🤣
Did you said that 7 nm = to 3 inch pounds
Hmm, would have to watch again, 7nm = 62in lb.
@@smsauce thanks
I think you said 63 lbs