Fix It Friday - Catastrophic FAIL! Proto 2000 GP38
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- Опубліковано 1 лют 2024
- Simple fix turns into a TOTAL Loss
Can I salvage?
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That model is equipped with trucks supplied by ATLAS. prior to the Walther's take over.
Bummer!
In this line of work, it's a high risk to take on any used train, but on the other side, you now have parts to work on your next train show trains. We all have gone through this in one form or another. PS love the ending.
I do love the wreck train!
It's sad but it happens...
The fuel tank will come off - it is literally held on with double-sided sticky tape. (Just slowly pry it with a screwdriver) That will give you access to the motor mounts. Once properly maintained, the Protos are a heavy loco and will pull very well. The technology is very similar to classic blue-box Athearns and usual good runners. However, many of these 4-axles are prone to the Proto gear splitting, and will need to be replaced. Kato and I believe Atlas also used to put orange LED's in their loco - probably felt they were "warmer" in color than the white-blue LEDs. But you can get Warm-White LED's that look more correct. To bend a frame this must have been dropped or in some other horrific trauma. Maybe even a replacement shell? Love the channel!
Also I believe in order to safely get the trucks apart, you need to take the center clip off first. The side of the trucks lock in the clip assembly. (Lastly I hate those black press on power lead connectors, which prove to be very unreliable - so I solder the wire direct.)
I was going to comment that I'm glad you know what you're doing! Up until the frame snapped! 😮 That sucked 😢
Liked the running shot at the end, with it going round in bits. Plenty spares as you said. And another better loco gets sound..win win.
That sucks I'm sorry to see that Dave
Good Day Scott,
having just watched your fix it Friday, Fail, unfortunatly that would have been a losed cause for any of us attempting to repair, due to way the chassis snapped apart all too easily, and the light grey colour of dust on the surface of it. It clearly has the dreded Mazac Rot, this is caused in manufacture of the zinc alloy mix being wrong and as result the casting cools down too quickiy, when being cast, resulting in microscopic air bubbles to form, greatly weakening the cast item, then over time it corrods from the inside out, causing the casting to distort, swell or just crumble apart!
If however should you be able to sourse another chassis? that hasn't suffered Mazac Rot then you'll be able to restore said loco back to a servicable front line track operator. Therefore don't get disheartened, as this is how we become seasoned modellers, through the experience of the set backs, I have enjoyed watching you grow your Knowledge through your channel. as a railway modeller of around 45 years expience have made all the mistakes that you have or will make. So stay Calm and keep playing trains!
Loved the funeral train lol
Hi Dave, had a chuckle on its last ride of its journey 😎😎😎😎have a good one mate
When Proto2000 came out, they were considered a good deal. I was never too impressed and never got one. Had a lot of
Ahearn Blue Box, Atlas and Kato. I even had a couple Bachmann Spectrum I picked up cheap that ran well.
Yesterday i watch a show about unhappiness with the layout, and your bridge.
You have a horseshoe, why not close it with the bridge, put it on a hinge or not!
That's what I'm thinking.
Just lost a Bachmann split chassis 0-6-0 to Mazak rot yesterday- like yours, just one side
I feel your pain.
Zamic Rot, another quality product from China. A Blue Box Athearn GP38-2 chassis to the rescue!
It's a long shot, but you can try to contact Walthers to see if they have any frames in stock since Walthers purchased Life-Like in the early 2000s. I think this locomotive is offered today on new releases under Walthers version of the Proto 2000 line. So, they might have spare parts available. The worst they can tell you is, "Sorry, we don't have any parts." Also, you might be able to put this on an Athearn frame and drive. I haven't ever tried this since I don't own any GP38s locomotives from Proto 2000, but anything is worth a shot to make it run again.
With the frame bent like that, my best guess is it fell off a table then was patched back together with a basic DCC install. It is still at least a great parts locomotive!
That's the problem with that kind of metal, can be bent in an instant by accident, but when you try to straighten it, it breaks at the thinnest point, end of story. In this case, previous deep tampering, and it looks like it was glued with crazy glue. Cracked gears would have to be replaced. If you glue them, they will just recrack in the same place. Well, at least you have things to add to a parts box.
Just keep an eye out for a cheap dummy unit. Got all the bits to bring it to life😉👍
My condolences on the loss of your locomotive. But, at the same time, congratulations on the sum of its parts being greater than the whole.
Meh, it was a weird shade of red anyway, lol
Spares, spares and more spares.
Howdy, Dave. Love your videos. I learn a lot by watching other modelers work on their engines and rolling stock. Crack on, mate. Guess I'll subscribe to your channel since I learn a lot by watching videos. Just picked up a new X-acto knife set today from Wally World. I had a package of #2 blades and no handle. I think they should call 'em A-proxo knives since nothing is ever exact, only approximate. I have a 2 GP-38-2's but they are LifeLIke or Tyco, just can't remember. I stripped them and repainted them black and added Norfolk Southern decals & plows on both ends.
So sorry your frame came apart, probably due to zinc rot. One could just wish the chassis was made of steel.
Cheers from eastern TN
Yea hey Scotty.Those P2K GP 38s were excelant locomotives, even by todays standards.They did share a few Athearn drive train parts. There are several different "phases" of the P2K. These were, I think, the first to come out with a can motor. as opposed the the Athearn style motor.One of the commthat dried upents suggest, as I was going to, to try an Athearn GP frame, as these shpuld be available or even buying a dummy Athearn GP loco.The Athearn frames are not the samebut are similar with more gaps in the frame . Like I said, these are top of the range locos in their day.Incidently, if you come across any Athearn Genesis, Atlas or Kato locos, the trucks (bogies) come apart the same way..These GP 38s were notorios for having "glue" for lube in their trucks, that had dried up.This one has been cleaned out. So dont write that loco off yet. It is a quality made loco, if the body is in good order, even if you have to ditch that weight, as you say, that had a bend in it too. Hey man thanks for the video. I do think that frame was broken, not by zinc rot either. Michael NZ
Dave: I tried to post a source for a new/replacement frame with the URL but I do not see it here. I went to eBay and to HO model trains, replacement parts for your model. The first item was a chassis for your locomotive! If you want that train go there. Regards, Les
Hey, Scott ,we can't save them all, you did your best now you have spare parts for other restorations that is how we learn in this hobby, cheers for a wonderful instructive video.
Thanks. I'm not too upset, I've had a lot of wins recently.
@@ScottRails, yes indeed you have and saw all videos on them or to come.
@@ScottRails Thank you for answering my comment, And giving it a like.
That was neat you sent it on its final journey.
Like a Viking funeral, lol.
End screws hold the weight, but you know that by now. The fuel tank is held on with doublesided tape
and there are two more screws for the weight under the fuel tank cover.
Zamac ill. Very common with that model
I feel for ya. It's happened to me too. Ugh. Zinc rot sucks. Love the end video of the loco off to the parts bin. Love the positive attitude. Maybe find a basket case loco that had a similar frame and rebuild.
The parts are in cold storage waiting for their next victim.
They designed these loco’s to assemble, not to disassemble 🤣. No disassemble 🤣🤣
ahhh, Johnny 5 is still alive.
Well that just stinks! Maybe at the next show you’ll find another one to transplant the parts. Hang in there! Love the end! Thanks‼️
Well thanks for watching till the end, I also had a chuckle.
i like your work crew train
They are always happy to scrap the competition.
Very cool, model trains are quite fun to work on
That was a shocking moment. But like how it ended up on the slow roll to the scrap yard.
Sad to see the frame break in your hands. Could you 3d print a frame on your printer? Just a thought. Love the train at the end of the video.
Really not worth the effort, but thanks for the suggestion. Yes, I liked the ending scene too, lol.
Too bad,
Protos are generally good locomotives and often these days a bargain (they to be the dime a dozen in my area's train shows and hobby shops).
But this one looks like it went flying off a layout a some point. Atheist you can salvaged the decoder, shell and other parts.
Damned shame, such a nice locomotive. Proto 2000 is one of my favorite makes and it's such a sad sight to see that it's FUBAR.
Maybe I'll find another one with a dead motor and we can do a transplant.
Those Proto 2000 GP38s are heavily known for Zinc rot But hey if you dont like CSX that CP shell will fit on the Atlas CSX GP38 chassis
DAMN! That sucks! I would have been so pissed. Got spare parts out of it tho, which is better than nothing. You might be able to find that frame out there on the ol' interwebs.
It's ok, salvage parts are worth what I paid.
Well you can't win them all and I now see that I saw this at the back of the track in the other video.. haha.. look at it this way like you said.. lots of new spare parts and now you have a few items to put on carraiges and run as you did with a body, chain it down onto a flat bed wagon and you can do similar with the trucks and make it a train pulling the spares like you did at the end... and you have $50 worth of spares... for the next one and you have learnt how to open them up.. check out Classic Model Trains Ron he does a lot of these and similar type of fix it vids like we do... watch a few different other channels and watch how they fix and get into things.. it will help with yours.. Another great video and learning experience.. chin up ... its money well spent when you think of it in the right format....
sometimes ya gotta just say the he-- with it. you couls always get a new frame from Lifelike. You will find the fuel prys off. It is held on with very strong double sided tape
Yes, I did remove the tank, you are correct.
Well, that is a bummer. Cheap metal. Not sure it was zinc rot, but it is a goner and clearly was wearing away. Sorry to see!
I had no emotional attachment to this one, so don't feel too bad.
Since die-casting was first started with toy trains in the twenties it's always posed a bit of a sword of Damocles for manufacturers, being undetectable at manufacturer.
Ignore the "oh its because its made in China" as zinc pest is not geographically or manufacturer limiting. It has happened, and still happens to nearly every manufacturer no matter where its made, even some fairly modern German made equipment which is ironic as they gave the phenomenon a name.
Chinese manufactured products get given a bad rap solely as they're the largest producers, so statistically of course zinc pest will show up more on products from there.
Generally manufacturers compositional tolerances improve over time using consistent batch producing. Zinc pest really effects where manufacturers have new production facilities, new foundry, new zinc suppliers etc.
Basically it has to get past a trial period. Cars have exactly the same zinc pest issues, again, due to change over in supplier or casting or methodology. Remember formulas have to run to thousandths of a per centile so it's an extraordinarily difficult process
When i go to train shows i always look for broken 'HO' locomotives to use for spare parts.
If it's off the used table, I take apart the ones that just "pop" apart
C’est la vie, win some lose some, etc.
you win some you lose some but no way would you straighten that chassis dave tts decoder and spares still a good call
Shame, Thats been dropped
That looks like mazak rot, seen it quite a bit in hornby Chinese frames. Nothing you can do about it. That's why it bends at the open sections due to the density change.
wow, so you think it was not even dropped, it just went like that? That's pretty bad.
@@ScottRails correct, if it was dropped, like you already mentioned, there would be so much more damage to the body. My mazak deformed the chassis so much it lifted the motor off the drive gear. !
I like bananas, but not when it pertains to model trains.
At least broken bananas can be used to make delicious banana bread.
Another project coming you have some spare parts
It hit the floor on the rear first
Thank you Quincy, lol
Wonder if you can get a replacement frame? Thanks for sharing.
Really not worth the hassle. I've never seen this design before and don't really care for it.
I wonder if you could 3d print a frame, since it's DCC you don't need a metal frame. @@ScottRails
You need a third hand.
are those the ones with zinc pest?
I believe so.
So, who started your heart back up, after you felt the snap ?
To be honest, I was already starting to hate this loco.
Replacement loco is in process@@ScottRails
Be still my heart
Hey Dave the frame is garbage they were cheaply made with metal
ua-cam.com/video/gIIsWq-U3ag/v-deo.htmlsi=LEFcxtqQCmqfqyzX
same thing with my Patriot class, had to fit a new chassis
Nossa, estava trincado o chassis mas, compra outro chassi não desista da locomotiva
Um novo chassi custaria tanto quanto uma locomotiva nova. Não vale a pena.