Front & Rear Z23 Evolution Sport Brake Upgrade Kit
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2022
- In this video I bring you along as I "upgrade" Mrs.O's van with some of Rock Auto's Power Stop Z23 Evolution Sport brake pads and rotors. Is it really an upgrade? Will it really help with the rotors constantly "warping?" Time will tell but for now let's put them on and see how it goes. -Enjoy!
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Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained. - Авто та транспорт
What are your thoughts? Have you guys used these in the past and if so did you notice any difference in longevity? I am not looking for increased stopping power more than I am looking for a rotor that doesn't warp so fast. Let me know your experience!
-Eric O.
PS. Rock Auto #notasponsor so if they end up being rubbish you'll know about it 😅 That is the beauty of no sponsors, I can say what I want 🗽
I have used them multiple times. They do take a lot longer to warp than standard rotors. Solid choice
Yea I ran them. In my experience they were very smooth for a few weeks and stopping power was great. But they became really rough feeling after they wore in, especially when wet. My car has the same issue with the front rotors warping so I tried all different types of rotors/pads and they all eventually warped. I ended up going back to blank rotors. If they don’t work out try the raybestos specialty high carbon blank rotors on rock auto. Had them for months now, no warping and they’re smooth as glass. Just to add I’ve been running powerstop reman calipers for over 100k miles with no issues, so I’d say their quality is pretty good.
My semi indirect experience with them is that the rotors are your bog standard retail store parts grade chinesium junk castings with some pads that get glazed and slippery with actual hard use as I've changed out a few sets for unhappy customers over the years and driven quite a few cars with them thumping and sliding to a stop. For rotors that don't warp, like ever get the Centric 125 series high carbon Cryo-treated rotors. I've been running them on the front of my Celica for about 50,000 miles of severe abuse with rotor temps past 650F often and never a single bit of warp ever at all. Possibly the non treated 125's would be just as good, I see those are available on RA for the fronts. I'll look around, maybe TireRack will have the Cryo treated ones. Used to be sold under their StopTech line and might still be.
Unrelated to brakes, be aware that past (and probably current) versions of that 3.3 engine have issues with their VVT cam phasers rattling terribly at startup like a timing chain absolutely slapping around. Similar sound to the GM 3.6 when their phasers won't lock and I think a similar problem. It'll be about 3 seconds of the engine sounding like ate marbles.
Oh hey, we have the same shop chair!
@@huzudra high carbon is the way to go, the regular centric rotors warp just by looking at them.
Had them for over a year now... Overall satisfied with the performance and cleanliness... My OEM setup would coat my black wheels with rust and dust practically instantly. No longer an issue with these. The bite a little better when warm but nothing spectacular. Slotted and drilled will be a little noisy as well but you should know this by the time you purchase.... 8/10
You need to paint the calipers red to complete the package. Red paint is known to give another 15HP and 10ft shorter stops.
You beat me too it, I was thinking the same thing. Maybe even add some silver letters.
Would yellow or blue calipers give you an increase in HP as well😃
Yeah, everyone knows that.
and it might match her nail polish
Is the proportioning valve set up with too much front bias?
Why do I have the feeling that Eric is going to seriously LOVE the overalls. Lol.. bet this isn’t the last we’ve seen of those!
he is not wearing them anymore
I’ve used PowerStop brake caliper/rotor/pads kits on several of my cars. I love them.
Observation...
The caliper pins are in the bracket are under a vaccume, they are stuck into the caliper bracket. I had the same problem on my 2006 Altima... Warped rotors over and over again no mater what brand I used. Even got new brackets and calipers... No change until I came across a vid that seems to have helped , It turns out I was over lubing the pins, now I start with cleaned out bores, Grease the pins run them in and out wiping off a little at a time until they stay where I put them. No trapped air pushing them out or vaccume pulling them in.
Went from 2 to 8 months between brake jobs to 5 years since the last one.
As for brands I landed with Raybestos element 3 pads and coated rotors. No rust wobbles and work great!
My wife warps rotors all the time. I finally installed the same exact ones you did. It took 3.5 years about 32K miles before they began to show signs of warpping. I am impressed
I have spent 44 years trying to convince my wife that brakes are for stopping, not for slowing down. When the traffic signal is red, don't drive right up to the intersection then slam on the brake. Down shift! Down shift on declines, don't ride the brakes for 5 miles all the way down the pass! All to no avail. Ah well, it's only money. It is still being printed.
@@douglasburford8452 Brakes are cheaper than automatic transmissions
This is genius 👏. I will install race brakes on my mini van so that the commander doesn't warp them as fast.
Same here. Wife’s Honda van warped rotors every year or so, and she’s a good driver. Tried the Powerstops and so far so good.
Nappa brake rotors snd parts rusting just overnight after installation after dropping off the car home.
Rockin the Bibs Eric! Most comfortable things you can wear, especially in the summer.
You can tell this man loves his wife and kids. He's more diligent with his own stuff, wants nothing more than for them to have the best. Not that he had the best parts, but he did the best job and did everything asked of him from everyone. Mrs. O is a lucky woman. Eric, you are a hell of a man. We all love you.
I used this Power Stop set on a project truck that became my daily driver. After 40k pads and rotors are still good and truck stops way better then it did with factory brakes. 👍
Saved me hundreds of dollars by watching your videos over the years. Had the money light on my 2011 Chevy Silverado for lean codes, checked the MAF sensor, low and behold a piece of lint in there. Blew it off the sensor and no more money light. So, thanks Eric for the knowledge you give us.
Nice You went full overalls! I used the powerstop kit version, they look the same. No shimmy but mine is heavier 80 series land cruiser.
Family mechanic here. I’ve used them for the last several brake jobs I’ve done. I like them much more than the local parts store brands and will keep using them until a reason comes along that I don’t like them. No complaints at all so far. 🙂
Good to know I was worried at 1st just ordering a new product I've never used🫡 no way I'm paying Mr.Tire 1400$ to get crap
I installed these exact rotors and pads a year ago on my '13 Fiat 500 Abarth. After a year, no shuddering but even more important, very very minimal brake dust, especially in the front, unlike the OEM soft pads that made a dirty mess of the front rims in short order. Also, that cadmium coating they use on their rotors is holding up nicely after sitting outside in all types of weather. Very happy with the Power Stops.
I have power stop drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads on my 07 Ram 1500 pickup. They have been on there 30 thousand miles and are still working great. BTW nice overalls!
ALL THESE DRILLED / SLOTTED ARE A WASTE OF MONEY FOR THE AVERAGE CITY VEHICLES ...THEY ARE MADE FOR HI SPEED ,,,, UNDER A HI SPEED THEY DO NOT WORK ..... RESEARCH IT ...
I have a 13 and been eyeing these but im not a fan of ceramic pads. Ill be using something like sintered or semi metallic
@@blue03r6 semi metallic pads have much greater stopping power, but tend to eat your rotors a bit more and create more dust.
@@jamram9924 the dust I don't agree with. if I could upload pics to youtube I'd prove it. ceramic pads produce 2 times more dust than any semi metallic pad I've ever had. and the sintered pads produces almost none
@@blue03r6 perhaps the pads you installed but most ceramic pads were designed to reduce brake dust and reduce the use of toxic metals into the environment. Ceramic pads can vary in content of materials and complexity from manufacturer to manufacturer. I don’t like to use them on trucks because I’ve tried them time after time and they don’t have the stopping power as well as ceramics.
Hey Eric, congratulations on 701k subscribers! By far one of the top rated auto repair channels.
I have to disagree, it's the BEST auto repair channel. :)😀
I have to disagree with you both. The greatest channel is Scotty Kilmer.
@@taintoolreview4188 🤡
I also watch rainman Ray repairs. The 2 best auto repair channels in my opinion
@@jameshedrick605 I’ll have to check that one out
Just wanted to put my 2 cents into the powers top brakes, I have been using the on all 3 of my trucks, so far I have had no issues on any of them, no warping, seizing or any issues. Also I would add that there customer service is amazing, had a brake pad that was chipped die to shipping or whatever and they sent out replacement very quickly. Highly recommend.
Thanx for the intel🫡💯 I always have doubts buying new equipment 😅
Rocking the overalls. What brand are they?
Bernie or bern or something like that. I got a few different brands to try out. These are the ones that were the most comfortable do far.
@@SouthMainAuto you'll find a few brands that are very comfortable, and will also get better with more wear.
@@SouthMainAuto liberty and berne and Carhartt and Dickies...growing up we had pointer brand made in Bristol ,tn we're the mainstay in the south till they priced themselves out...were $ 135 a pr.... Now it's liberty's for me and carhartt
@@SouthMainAuto the overalls will likely cure the rotor problem . :) haha. Ms "O" gets the " good stuff" for the crew and animal safety rig . Looking forward to the info progress on the as it goes , journey . Great video Eric, thank you .
@@SouthMainAuto Ah Berne. I have a pair of their brown duck overalls here.
I see you followed through and got the overalls!
I think sometimes there are cars that just go through brakes. But OTOH, my wife and I typically go > 100,000 miles on the factory brakes. We're both conservative (IE "granny") drivers. We also have never replaced a clutch, the current car has > 206,000 miles on the factory clutch, and in 40 years of car ownership driving cars from new until they rust out, we have replaced ONE drivetrain component, a thermostat in the 206K Fusion. Both children of depression kids, we drive the cars like we need them to last forever.
I know people who need new brakes every 15K. Having ridden with them I know why too.
Do you know what overalls he got, could use them, thanks.
"I see you followed through and got the overalls!" Am I the only one who laughed at that ?
@@paulleeson1218 Nope
@@paulleeson1218 They're bib overalls. They fit in better with Avoca's rural setting. :D
@@aaronjohn6586 think he said Berne
Power Stop rotors and Akebono pads, can't go wrong! Love the overalls.
Just used Akebonos on my 14' Fusion with new standard rotors. When new, the brakes were absolutely awesome. When the brake job was performed and this break in procedure done, that feeling returned... I am definitely happy with the results.
Eric
I’m a former ASE Master Technician
these days, I only work on my family’s vehicles
I’ve used these rotors/pad packages on three vehicles….. each time with excellent results!
Eric O! Love your videos. Funny this happened to Mrs.O, because it's exactly what I'm dealing with my own truck. 78,000 miles on the original brakes (I don't like working on my own after everyone else's cars all day lol) So definitely not operator error. Brakes were almost gone, replaced rotors and pads as a pair. First set, Advics rotors and Akebono ProActs. 8k miles later, warpage. Returned those, got a set from O'Smileys on the house rotor and brake pad combo. 6k miles, warpage. Got Bosch quiet cast rotors and Bosch ceramic pads. Warpage after 6k miles. Went back to Advics rotors and instead went with their Advics Pads. (Advics is the OEM for 3rd genToyota Tacomas for both pads and rotors). When I did this last set, I did same as you for the most part. I cleaned the hub till it was spot free. Cleaned the piston to pad surface in the caliper ( double sided lockheed martin 4 piston calipers like the land cruisers) Dialed in the rotors to less than 0.001 runout (had to reposition one rotor to meet the spec) I did it the best anyone could (including removing any lubricant from the wheel studs and nuts and torqueing to spec), and finally broke the 8k mile mark. But now at 12k, I'm getting a little shake in the wheel again. Searched high and low to figure this out, done 100's of brake jobs and never had this happen so of course it's on my own vehicle. Can't say why I'm still going through this. Also tried different bed in procedures and only Advics procedure with their pads has lasted the longest. Eric, if you ever figure it out, I'd love to buy you a beer. Or some popsicles for the freezer lol.
maybe it's not the rotors/pads but the calipers/pistons...
or maybe the caliper assembly doesn't sit 100% centered on the rotor, and applies more force on 1 side...fix could be puting a washer...anyway...good luck
I learned my lesson on bedding the pads on a cross drilled and slotted rotor. Put a set on an 06 Mustang GT and the first time I used the brakes it shuddered horribly. Called the company and they walked me through their bedding procedure - 10 hard stops from 60 mph. Brakes felt perfect at that point. Have never had to do this process on any standard rotor in 45 years of brake changes.
Yep. I remember having to do a certain procedure similar to that when I changed to drilled & slotted rotors also.
I’m sure that Mrs O will take care of that!
Yeah I've had to do some hard break ins for drilled and slotted brakes. Worth it though. Bedding them in nice and aggressively, and a couple heat cycles makes them very happy and wear very evenly.
Brake pads have ALWAYS required bedding in.
That said, the problems created by not bedding the pads are exacerbated by:
Floating rotors as opposed to stub axles and bearings.
Brake pad compositions having to be changed from asbestos and the nightmare of developing suitable bonding agents and resins. (Which they still haven't got completely sorted and are still experimenting with)
The Chinafication factor. Poor quality castings, green castings being machined into rotors, every possible corner cut.... just china in general.
Not to mention steering and geometry changes in newer cars. Car's are tinnier, more prone to flex and resonances, poor caliper designs - especially in single acting calipers with slides.... on and on it goes. Now things like bedding procedures are imperative.
Most pads have a procedure printed on the box.
Overall Eric is one of the best diagnostic mechanics on YT.
As a former oval track racer and an old guy I've found out that aggressive braking doesn't warp rotors but heat spots them that causes that shimmy. Also as a former ASE tech I was schooled by Wagner brakes in the days and they showed us proof that rotors don't warp.I will say that as far as run out goes I've seen new rotors out of the box that had as much or more run out than the ones we removed!...As far as a KIA I have one with 88 ,000 miles that did what Eric O was dealing with and went through rotors about 35-40,000 miles because of that shimmy..
The worst cause is not just hard braking, but keeping the brakes on hard after coming to a stop - the discs [rotors] are hot and much more malleable, which allows the pads to indent them slightly it the brake pedal force is sustained.
If you release pressure as it nears stopping & only use just enough to prevent rolling they should not warp.
It's the indents rather than runout that cause serious brake juddering, as the pad pressure is varying as the discs rotate.
Edit - Eric reads pretty much the same thing from the brake makers instructions, later in the video...
I read someplace that under certain conditions (i.e. hot) the resin from the brake pads can deposit itself on the rotor if the vehicle is stopped with the brakes held on. To prevent that I have gotten into the habit of putting it in Park after coming down long hills. Has it been effective? I can't prove it but I "feel" that it has.
It is my pleasure to say hello,
I am retired Pharmacist and you and your videos are the best. I will now attempt install of Power Stop pads and rotors, trans drain w/new filter and flush, transfer case and diff... on wife's Rav4. She will be able to stop faster on her 1 mile runs to the grocery store. Thank you for helping and educating many vehicle owners. 😊
Love the bibs 😁
Recently replaced the brakes on my granddaughters 2014 MDX with parts from Rock Auto decent parts and price. She opted out of the high performance parts😊
(Whoever did them last didn't put the spreader springs on the pads.)
Those spreader springs do nothing. Make sure your slide pins are free and clean, and the pistons on the caliper aren't seized. Springs won't help if brakes aren't releasing as they should.
My brand new 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee had the same problem with the front brakes back in 1999. When the rotors got overheated they warped. After doing several rotor replacements I learned that the problem was slowing down from 70 mph to 10 mph on expressway/highway off ramps. So, I adjusted my driving style on off ramps. One brief push on the brakes to slow from 70 mph to 40 mph, let the rotors cool for a few seconds, and then another push on the brakes to bring the Jeep to a stop. Never warped a rotor after that.
Bingo......I live in PA and have several long downhill grades I travel on and smoked my rotors on 1 drive by riding my brakes all the way down...Now I pump them a couple of times and let them cool in between.....the grade is a couple of miles long...
"Brand new" 1999 Jeep
@@dissje165 believe it or not in 1999 a 1999 jeep was considered brand new…
Yep. My mom used to have problems warping the rotors on her van. Her drive to work was about 15 miles on interstate so the rotors had plenty of time to cool before getting used to slow to a stop on the off-ramp. A change in driving habits can help. Ultimately part of the problem is that minivans are based on car parts so the extra weight can heat the brakes quicker. Larger diameter and heavier rotors tend to be the best solution.
I was a mechanic for Mack Trucks. Inc. The recommended braking method of all the truck manufacturer's was hard application to bleed some speed then completely off to cool, and repeat as necessary to stop. Moderate, constant application was not acceptable. The brake components would overheat that way.
No better way to spend a Saturday night, watching SMA, after doing battery change, transmission fluid drain and fill, and some fog lamp wiring with shrink wrap fittings… Learned so much your channel Eric!! Getting my daughter’s car ready for my 1300 mile drive from Toledo to Florida to move her to college next month!!! If you can do it, I can do it!!!
I put the Power Stop Z36 kit on my 2003 Silverado 2500HD in 2017. 165,000 miles later they still work great. No more warped rotors.
Seeing you do that break-in procedure took me back to the times when I had to carry out decelerometer brake tests on a fleet of limousines, as part of their 10-weekly statutory inspections here in the UK. On one occasion, I pulled up normally, in a 180" stretched Town Car at the side of the straight road I always used, ready to set off for a test after a van, some way behind, had passed. Unfortunately, the van driver had not noticed there was a stationary, white, 8000lb limousine in front of him, and drove straight into the back of it at around 40 miles an hour. No-one was hurt, but it made a mess of his van and about the last foot of the limo.
If that van driver was on the correct side of the road, they'd never hit ya! 😉 Yes, I'm being cheeky. 😁
Eric, I have been a Rockauto customer for over 12 years now and if I can wait a day or two for the part's to come in I order them in as the big part stores are out of their minds on the pricing.
👍 😅
Long time Rockauto customer as well. My garage fridge is almost completely covered by their car magnets! I love their business model and who they support and advertise with. I just drive a different car or get some exercise with my bike while waiting for their parts.
My problem with Rock Auto is that they don’t have a customer service number or email address if you have a parts question about something that is not listed. I usually buy OEM for My Honda Element(except brake pads and rotors).
I like the break in procedure, at least they address what is best for their particular product.
The break in procedure is important, it’s as important as replacing worn components.
In my experience, it is often the “least part of a brake job”, widely dismissed, and prone to creating near future unwanted noise and feel, etc.
Thanks for showing us “the way”!
You, and Powerstop, are right.
Hey Eric, I put these on my 2011 Mazda 2 due to it warping the OE front rotors and other replacements very early on. So far I have put around 8,000 miles on it and they have been great. Smooth stops with no pulsing or pulling and very little pedal pressure required. The kit I received came with new boots and rubber o-rings for the caliper pins as well. Love them so far and really enjoy watching you repair autos. I’m an electronics tech and love the way you breeze through electrical issues on so many different brands and types of vehicles. Keep up the good work, you are much appreciated!
Erik, I see you sporting the awesome very stylish coveralls. Nice.
Mr O rocking the overalls. Go on farmer brown.
A plad shirt and rub the neck a bit more, and you will have a bonafide Ram Truck owner or an Edgar suit
😂😂😂😂
Eric I had as 2015 Challenger R/T and installed the evolution brakes. You said what I experienced during break in.I noticed the increased stopping improvement and they proved to continue to be a excellent product. The short stopping and brake pedal confidence really showed in stop and go traffic! Hope she likes them!
What a great video! It’s refreshing to see an ACTUAL mechanic install and review a new (to them) product! And a great sense of humor, as well Consider me a new subscriber!
Side note: I installed a similar full four-corner street upgrade kit from Power Stop last year. I reached-out to local law enforcement and asked where I could safely perform my break-in procedure without looking like I was ready for a DUI. They recommended a particular stretch of road, and even sent a police unit to follow me through the entire process! Tax dollars well-spent!
Thats good to know. I think I'll try the same.
Eric, I've used Powerstop brakes on my Camry's for the past 10 years. I love their products! I find the stopping power to be about 20% better and the wear is about the same; at least 20% longer lasting. The only problem I've had in 10 years (or about 4 brake changes over 3 different cars) is the last set of front brake pads were drilled oversized for the springs and the springs kept coming out. They have a lifetime warranty on manufacture defects so I'm waiting a bit to replace them. Otherwise, they've been great!
I had these on my Focus ST and loved them. They lasted a long time and had minimal brake dust.
Used these on several vehicles and have had GREAT experience with the power stops.
Hi, really enjoy and appreciate your instructive videos! My wife had the same issue with OE brake rotors warping after 6k miles of daily driving the mountains of western North Carolina. She’s a pretty aggressive breaker. Replaced with Power Stop Z23 rotors and pads and, so far after 15k, no sign of warping and good stopping action. I’m satisfied so far. Performed break-in as called for by manufacturer. Thanks again
I use the Rockauto a lot and have run the evolution's, they hold up well. I have also returned rotors (different brand) for premature warping under warranty, they always accepted the returns with no questions asked.
Our Jeep GC ate front brakes rotors. Went with this style rotor six year ago. Been great, no more warped rotors.
👍 😅
I completely agree about rock auto… been a customer for well over 10 years…. I only ever had one time in hundreds of transactions where I needed to call their support. Issue was well taken care of and I was surprised to learn how small of a company they are considered how “big” they are.
@@trssho91 I can never find their number. I just do the transaction online and they take care of it. Great company to deal with, too bad they don't run a free ship deal every now and then!
@@daved5244 I had found it on their “about us” main page, but their online return page works fine…. Mine was a weird situation, but they took care of it so I have no complaints. In fact they ended up just refunding me for the order and told me to keep the parts (the parts weren’t defective, so that was cool). The free ship would be cool, and I’d be lying if I said I haven’t placed a few orders from Amazon instead of them because shipping would have over $100. When the shipping gets like that and if Amazon has the exact same part with free shipping then it gets hard to throw the money away, but since their site tells you what warehouse each parts ships from it’s generally pretty easy to keep shipping in check by trying to make sure you order stuff that all ships from the same warehouses. :)
I have been through 3 minivans, Toyota and Honda, and the rotors always warped before the pads needed to be replaced. Two weeks ago I was looking at the same set you just installed for my 2017 sienna. They have a complete front and back set for $450. Ouch, I don’t think I have ever spent so much on brake hardware, but will be worth it if I can get the full life out of my pads. It was good to see you trying them because you are having the same issues as me. Can’t wait to hear an update. I always enjoy your content!
I did use this brand on my 4Runner and really like them and their stopping power. Only have had them for a year now and they seem to be doing really well.
Thanks for sharing,glad to see someone paying attention to the instructions !
I've used em in the past and they work great, towards the end of life I've seen cracking. I picked up some dynamic friction high carbon drilled and slotted and so far they're wonderful. I have some s groove ones on my daily driver that have treated me very well the past couple years as well. I always opt for the coated variants being in the midwest, it helps.
Nice brake job and nice overalls ! Blessings 🙏
Sweet overalls!!!! Thanks for the vid Eric, hope you and your family have a great 4th!
You will be very satisfied with these brakes. My 2013 f150 Ecoboost had issues wearing too much on the inside of the rotors, did not like the idea of replacing the rotors at every oil change....We upgraded to the evolution brake kit with calipers at 20k miles, I tow boats and trailers frequently and am somewhat aggressive on the brakes. We are now at 150k miles and still have 75% brake life left with no signs of pulsing or uneven wear.
The only challenge was the proper break-in procedure, you do need a lot of road to complete properly! But once properly done: WOW awesome upgrade! I wonder if we can order new vehicles with these? LOL!
Keep up the GREAT content!
I've been running the Power Stop brakes on my F250 Super Duty 7.3 Diesel in excess of 5 years. In that time I've towed numerous heavy loads as well as this is my daily driver. You'll not be disappointed!!!
I also put them on my son's Dodge Ram 2500 Mega Cab. As with my Ford they are GREAT! The stopping capability has been increased without affecting drivability. I realize your video is over a year old and hope you have similar success on Ms.O's vehicle. Keep the videos coming they're always good.
Nice job I’ve done a lot of brake jobs in my life but that’s a new procedure if it works that’s good enjoyed watching👍
I’m running those same brakes on my little two-seater and they’ve been working great since 2015. My wife daily drives it and it’s been to two autocross events so I’d say they’re quality.
The questions, the comments, the concerns.......the overalls!! Another reason to love S.M.A....
Great video Eric I’ve been using them brake kits for years on my 2001 Tahoe I love him like a good life out of them and no issues
I switched to those on my '08 Durango for the same reason well over 5 years ago. I've haven't had an issue with them at all. It was worth it to me. Brakes much better also.
That sounds like a good break-in procedure for all brands of brakes.
Thanks for the video Eric! Installing this same brake package on my Yukon XL this weekend! Thanks for all you do! I appreciate you Brother!
Bought them for my truck. I took that break-in procedure and now use it on all brake jobs I do regardless of brand. I am a happy customer.
Love the overalls! I’ve had power stops for a good long time (4 years) and I think they have done great.
Ditto on the overalls☺
I used drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads on my ‘11 Ford Ranger with the same break in procedure you used and after 10,000 or so miles I like them a lot. Very even stopping, something I did not have with the factory brakes
Mrso is going to be so pleased you're going to get your favorite dinner for a week. Keep us updated. Thank you
Hi, Mr. O. Interesting. We will look forward to the results. Thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
i did that power stop kit on my old bmw 3 series a few years back and they were really nice, stopped a lot better and the pedal felt much more consistent, was pretty reasonably priced too.
I've been using the Evolution rotors and pads on all my vehicles for a few years now and have been very happy with them. I also put the drilled and slotted ones on my Honda civic with the big 1.8L 4 cylinder. Mostly because they were a good deal for the kit I got from Rock Auto. I also noticed the new overalls. Looks like the Southern farmer look won out and you gave in to the comfort of overalls.
I used powerstop brakes on my old subie with great results. My new Honda Passport showed signs of warped rotors right from the factory. Just had the dealer resurface the rotors, but the next time it happens (I’m anticipating fairly soon as most oem rotors aren’t made as good as they used to be), I’m going to replace them with a powerstop kit that is heavier duty.
I put the power stop kit on my 2016 Silverado about 3 months ago. I opted for the none drilled rotors. I got them thru auto zone. So far so good.
After warped rotors on both my F-350 and my wife’s Acura RDX, I switched to the Power Stop brake rotor and pad package… Night and day difference!!! We haven’t had any problems with the Power Stop’s, and we drive hard! I’ll be upgrading my RAM Promaster 3500 van to the Power Stop Z36 brakes in the near future!
I also have a Kia sedona. I was having the same problem and I put the same rotors and pads on the front, 1 year in so far so good
I myself have had good luck with the power stop brand slotted brake rotors as well as their ceramic pads and all that good stuff. Myself I'm typically hard on brakes anyway so I thought I'd give it a shot to see if I could get a little longer life out of them so far so good. I'm hoping Mrs. O will love them! And you will too because you might be able to go every other oil change without having to change pads. Keep up the great work and stay safe and healthy.🙏🏻👍
I've used these and have done the break in procedure on a back country road. The Amish kept looking at me funny when slamming my breaks on! These brakes have treated me well.
I use the Powrstop brake kit on my 2013 Cruze and I live in a pretty hilly environment where I use the brakes a moderate amount pretty much everyday and they've held up well. The standard cast iron ones I had on when I bought the car didn't last all that long. They would start to shudder after a couple stopping events. The Z23 kit works well, and I did notice it stops better than factory 👍
I've been using Powerstop products for a while now. Had them since I bought my 2000 GMC Yukon Denali, and so far I've been very happy. The brake pads lasted me well over 60K miles. Rotors as well, still on the same pair actually.
Thanks so much for showing the break in procedure. I bought similar brakes and rotors but haven't installed them yet and mine did not go into detail as to why you have to break them in that way.
Best of luck to you and the misses and I look forward to hearing about how these brakes hold up. Take care.
Hello there Scott, I have a repair shop out here in California. I started using these products exclusively on all of my brake jobs when they were introduced to me by my local parts representative about four years ago. My experience with them was basically this. No rotor warpage or wear to speak of, unfortunately I experienced premature pad wear out at about 100%. On a positive note if you have people looking for a pad that produces little to no brake dust you have found the best pad for that. I've put that pads only and not the rotors on several show vehicles and those customers couldn't be happier. Good luck to you and Mrs.O on your new brakes.
Hey Eric, you might want to check out your control arm bushings. I noticed that when you were torquing the lug nuts your wheel had excessive play front to back. Which as you know is an indicator of worn out control arm bushings. Which will also amplify the effect of warped rotors. Also, nice overalls! 👍
Think that's just the normal flex of steering wheel when tighten them down. If that was the case of worn bushings causing the vibration, he would get it right away on the new pads and rotors
@@kwmiked I wasn't saying that worn out bushings caused the vibration. I was saying that they could amplify the effect of the vibration. Also that's not steering system movement. If that was so the tire would move in and out not front to back in relation to the car. Also when you torque the wheels it is a twisting force on the wheel. The same force you're putting on the nut. Not a push in or out force. That's why when you torque Wheels they never move in and out as in moving the steering system. I know this because I have torqued thousands of wheels.
I have used them for a few years on my 08 Tundra. I used the Extreme towing and they work very well. I live in Ohio and do a lot of hauling (trailers, boats, etc.)
Eric O, I have these brakes all around on my 2010 Subaru Outback 3.6R and the stopping power is impressive... They work as advertised for sure.
Lots of owners of Kia Stingers report the same issue of stutter at 6k miles or earlier. Some have said that the oe pad and rotors don't get rid of the dust appropriately and the dust itself causes the problem. I've read where most owners switch to a slotted rotor, and that took care of the issue. The idea is that the dust can escape more efficiently through the slots. I'm at the 6k on my car and can feel a slight stutter. I'll give these a go when the stutter gets to be too annoying for me (which probably won't be long, I don't like something not performing the way I expect). Great video as always!
I put a set of these on my 2016 Civic, which I daily in NYC, use for spirited driving, and one autocross. I have had them on for about 2 years and 40k miles. So far, very impressed. No warping and very little dust. Although I did have fade after the autocross day.
Kenne, year down the road so you may not see this.
Had a 2000 Mustang I open tracked. Built motor (dynoed about 312 @ rear wheels), coilovers & upgraded rear links, stiffened chassis, Cobra brakes all 4 corners, stainless steel brake hoses. My solution for fade was a high-temp brake fluid (Motul brand IIRC). Don't remember for sure but it was DOT 5.1 full synthetic with a much higher boiling point (200* F?) than DOT 3. Even with perfect bleeding, zero air in the lines, you can experience fade after extended use as the brake fluid boils and outgasses bubbles. Being vapor, they're compressible.
Track days we generally did 10 to 12 laps of a 1.7 mile course, more twisty than straight. I braked hard enough at the end of the one long straight (about 90MPH in my car) to superficially crack the front rotor surfaces, even impressing the ZO6 owner riding with me. Abut a sixteenth inch deep. Didn't warp, used them another 18K street miles & more track days before replacement.
The hi-temp fluid & stainless steel lines provided a very firm pedal which 'came in' high in the pedal travel & remained there thru multiple laps & street driving. I did change it before track days, emptying the resivoirs to just above the brake lines, refilling with new fluid, bleeding the brakes while adding add'l fluid.
I upgraded brakes, suspension & tires before building the engine. I wanted all the cornering & stopping ability I could manage before adding power.
Hope you see this & find it useful.
I've had similar issues with brakes on a Holden Commodore here in Australia.
I found that 'racing' pads with the break-in procedure you mentioned was the cure.
The worst set lasted 6 months. Those pads had a 'no break in' strip of crap on the friction face.
I have the exact setup on my 02 Mustang GT, they are wonderful, low brake dust, they look/work as new as the day I installed them. Been running for at least 3 years and put on at least 5-10k miles on it. I think Mrs. O and yourself will be quite pleased.
I put Z36 Powerstops on our 2016 Expedition and love them! Easy installation, very quiet and excellent stopping power.❤❤
I have power stop brakes on 2 of my vehicles and they work great! Prices right and superior stopping power and longevity! Good choice for the misses!
Have had these rotors on my 07 Accord for several years now, its been a lifesaver (saved me from at least one close rear ender) and stopped the warping nonsense dead. I've been through a few sets of pads on them and its almost time to replace them finally. NY braking and stopping at so many redlights for several minutes really do a number on regular rotors, these have held up very well over the years. Its going to be a second pair for me this summer.
I’m using the Powerstop rotors and pads on several cars. I like the coated rotors they have so they don’t rust. I didn’t by the slotted rotors though. Finding a place to break in the pads was a challenge where I live.
Nice overalls Eric! Love the channel! I put a Powerstop stock replacement kit on my 2014 Honda Civic, last year when it hit 100K. I have put 15,000 on them since installtion. Had a bit of noise for a short tine after break in but since they have been great. The OEM replacement kit is not as high tech as what you installed, but I was going for economy. (It's a Civic sedan with a 1.8L, not exactly a screamer.) I am very happy with my choice. Good luck. Keep up the good work. JV Elk Grove CA
Mr. O and his new overalls! Lol
I’ve used this same combo on Camry & CR-V to help with warping from braking on long down hill commutes and so far I’m very satisfied !!
Running those rotors with Wagner Thermoquiet pads on our 94 Nissan Altima. So far, so good. Rock Auto is solid.
I've had this, multiple disk / pad combo's all suffering brake judder in 4 or 5k. Even good brands like Brembo and Pagid....Brembo went the longest !
I changed calipers, caliper brakets, hardware....checked for runout multiple times, and still suffered judder after a short while.
Then I discovered I wasn't suffering with warping of the disks, but uneven wear, I could Diat Test 1 side of a disk and "see" warpage, but the other side of the disk was still. flat and even!....I bit the bullet and changed both front wheel bearings and the problem went away.
GOOD ADVICE ! ! !
Wheel bearing is not usually the thing that most mechanics will think of...... but they definitely will cause you problems if worn OR out of adjustment!
I had some years on the FWD Fords in the 1990's where wheel bearing checks were part of the procedure for cars that had brake issues. We would sometimes find play up and down at the wheel and tire that could be removed by retorquing the axle nut.
We sometimes had premature inner tie rod looseness that was upgraded by a bulletin for improved parts over the TRW ones being supplied as OEM. The upgrade Ford parts solved these issues and they supplied a lathe which was used to match machine on the car.
The ones you could not fix were customers choice equipped with custom wheels with a distorted wheel bolt circle. It was unwelcome information and had to be proved with substitution of a stock set of wheels and tires borrowed from a new car or used car that had no verifiable issue.
Hope this older info helps someone, but it later became policy to find out the located runout or variation and use only a new part(s) as the bulletins applied to each model.
Calling for the same solution on multiple units was helping affect the rules about fixing with saved labor as a result. The parent company analyzed this aspect in their writing of bulletins and policy.
Decisions of management needed guidance in their experience.
Don't feel bad if you're having issues.
But check the possibilities of the parts you automatically take for granted and remove and reinstall. Or believe can't cause issues and leave unchecked. It's the way fixing a car differs from just changing parts. A wise old man will rest in peace if you do this perhaps. I know Eric O already does the things by procedure using the knowledge we gained as cars we witnessed design changes in, and all the tools we had to buy, and products we had to use through the last forty or fifty years.
Now he is after who makes better parts.
Once in a while I would find a brake pedal pad worn off on the left.
Then all bets are off.
I’m interested to see how these last. When I had cars it seemed like no matter how gentle I tried to be with my stops, the first hard stop seemed to warp rotors. Since then If had a couple of trucks over the last 18 years. They were both OEM GM and lasted 100k (rotors and pads) with no warping.
It would be really neat to find out what causes the warping. Maybe what is mentioned in the break in process should be tried with normal rotors to see if the last better.
I have a set of these Power Stop on my Ford Fusion. Noticeable improvement IMO. Followed the recommended break in procedure.
When I stop hard, I'll roll forward a few feet, wait a few seconds, roll forward again. Repeat. Prevents the pads from sitting in one place on the hot rotor. I've got 70k miles on these breaks and they still feel good (pads changed again, not rotors). Not sure if preventing the heat soak is helping, but makes me sleep better at night 🤣🤣🤣
Rock Auto Rocks, have used them for over twenty years. Nothing but good!
Can't wait to hear your opinion on these. I have the same issue with my wife's sienna. I'm lucky if I can get a year out of brakes before she gets the "wobble" lol
For vehicles that warp rotors, these are my choice, I've had good luck with them! They stop better than OEM, last longer & minimum brake dust! Thanks for the video!
Freeballing in the summer heat is a whole new kind of comfort!
Now if I could only figure out where to get you some Pakistani pajamas and safety sandals.... 😉
I am starting with bibs.... might work my way up to the Pakistani man dress and safety sandals by then end of summer....
@@SouthMainAuto I know I could find some in Dearborn but I've got no ideas for central NY.
Hope you and your whole tribe have a great 4th weekend! 🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲
@@SouthMainAuto I'm very tempted to send you some just for the lolz! 😆
I find it very satisfying doing the break in procedure after Ive installed new pads and rotors. This was almost the same satisfaction watching you do it some how. HA HA!! Great vid
Put them on my 2008 F150 2 years ago they are great. I haul a 28' enclosed with race car, golf cart and tools. They have worked flawlessly. "I did follow the break in"
I went down this same path with an ‘07 Odyssey EX-L… shaky steering wheel, warped rotors, etc. So I did the same kit on all four wheels, and was very pleased with the initial results. Unfortunately, I can’t give you the long-term experience since the car was totaled three weeks later when a guy pulled *right* out in front of me. 😑Anyway, I hope this solves your problem. My thinking was the same - the brakes on these minivans are just not sized up quite enough, and get too hot. Hopefully the slotted and drilled rotors will stay cool enough not to warp.
The brakes on my 2012 Odyssey worked fine until the dealer rotated the tires and improperly torqued them. They got it fixed, then the dealer replaced a front axle, and messed them up again. No more issues in the past 100,000 miles, but then again, the dealer hasn’t touched it since.
The Odyssey are very touchy when it comes to improper torque. They don’t like impact wrenches.
well, your brakes didn't work good enough if you didn't stop in time to avoid hitting him. sorry, cheap shot.
@@jasonmarks1636 😂 believe you me, there was barely time to move my foot from the gas to the brake before the impact, so the new brakes never had a chance to help.
It's been my experience that there is some kind of natural law about that. Whenever I put new tires on a vehicle I drive very carefully for a while to avoid crashes. The natural law is that just as soon as you put expensive repairs or upgrades to a vehicle it is more likely to suffer a fatal crash. At least it seems to me to be that way.
@@shadetreemech290 ditto on tires... the world wants to collide with me the second I leave the shop.
When I was tracking (road course) my C5 Corvette Z06 I was running ceramic pads and different rotors for the street than what I used on the track.
I was using OE rotors and Carbotech performance pads for the track. Pads and rotors are consumables if you track the car, so I was buying several sets.
This leads me to my discovery. Raybestos does a lot of OE stuff. The stock OE rotors for my C5 Z06 were made by Raybestos and sold by different brands. The NAPA OE rotors and the Brembo OE replacements were both made by Raybestos. I wouldn't be surprised if other companies were doing the same.
I was picking up a set of 4 OE rotors back in the mid 2000's for just $100 at NAPA. I even took one set and had a friend slot them and then zinc coat them for street use with quiet, low dust ceramic pads.
Your zinc coated rotors didn't need cleaning because the zinc coating is in place of the cosmoline they normally put on the rotors to help prevent rust while the part is on the shelf.
The added benefit of the zinc coating is that the rust will be minimal now on the edges and hat of the rotor even if you drive it in the winter.
The next thing to try if these rotors warp is to install a set of cryo treated rotors on the front.
I used them on my 06 explorer and my wife's 2010 mazda3. You can really feel it in the mazda how nice they grip while breaking and in the explorer I have had to use them quite a bit to stop quickly due to construction. No issues yet
Hey Erick, I purchased the evolution kit for my 2014 Tacoma. At that time I was having the same problem, vibration and disk worping. I tried original parts, doesn’t worked, replacement disks, the same thing. I decided to give it a try. Like you, I also notice the braking which of surprise me, but I follow each step. After two years I’m glad I did it. The performance it’s amazing and still looks like the first day I put it in my Tacoma, not even surface rust, the look like new.