Basic guide to Bodywork, block sanding, priming, and primers in the restoration world!
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- Опубліковано 20 вер 2024
- On this video I take a step by step approach from taking a car from the metal stage being finalized and starting the bodywork process. I go over tips and tricks on how to create straight show quality cars and the work that goes into them. We do all the rough body work on this video and finish off the video with our 1971 Barracuda in polyester primer.
Thanks for watching if you like what you see and want to help support what we with putting out videos on this channel please visit our store and pick up a shirt, hat or a sticker.
carthage-class...
#restoration #paintprep #bodywork
If you search the entirety of youtube you won't find a video like this, he makes it look easy no doubt, but the reality is nobody is putting in 1 hour of 101 basics on classic cars, they cut so much from it, and never get down to the nitty gritty. I appreciate this channel and also shoutout to D.I.Y auto body, i don't care if the guy yells, he gets the job done, and so does Carthage Classic Cars.
Thanks a lot it really means a lot. I know exactly who you are talking about on the DIY auto body channel as I have seen some of his videos. I enjoy his content.
My friend Pete, and Minnie the bodyshop girl😊JR
This guy knows his stuff 👍
Very nice information. Glad to know I did so much wrong on my first spray. Now I see why I have some low spots left.
@@Imwright720 It happens I have been there, the best lessons in life are learned the hard ways.
I’m fitna start my 84 c10 short bed and I’m looking forward rewatching your guide videos ❤
Awesome. glad they helped good luck on your C10!
Poor guy inhaling all this dust just to teach us humble UA-camrs! Very well made video, appreciate the knowledge.
haha you are welcome and thanks a lot for the comment and watching!
the attention to detail was amazing for someone with no knowledge about sanding cars/paint work
Thank you
@@carthageclassiccarsI m need auto pint job please help me your whatsap number send me🙏🏻😢
This is by far the best video concerning the basics of filler over epoxy. None of the other videos I have seen on you tube tell you what to do when you expose bare metal when doing filler work. They all just say "don't expose the metal" or "stop before you get to metal." Then they tell you you must re-epoxy the bare metal before putting any more filler on. Well, we are DIY people and some of us are not perfect and we will end up with exposed metal. Your method is so sensible and manageable. You expose some bare metal and you deal with it in a logical manner. I will paint my car using your videos as my bible.
Thank you very much and good luck with the bodywork and paint on your car.
The people that are hear don’t care that the video is long but it being to short is the issue. Show the work that’s why we are here‼️
Thanks I will try and make sure I show the important stuff for sure.
It doesn't matter if he showed everything this is all you need not trying to be a ass but I've been building and painting cars custom and collision for 28 years and it's all about repetition you learn every day in this trade like most others if you're not then your not ever going to be good at it
@@Max-cs1yiI use to work in a collision shop. I know how to do the work. I just enjoy watching the work and progression. That’s why I want longer videos. For the entertainment not education!
@@Max-cs1yi
some one who does bodywork the right way . 1 in a thousand great job
Thank you very much!
Hey Rick... great video. The world needs craftsman like you!
Thank you very much for the kind words.
I second that, I have searched for years to see someone do this from start to finish, thanks great video, keep them coming!
Thank you will do.
Very thorough process and explanation as to the hows and whys of bodywork. First class attention to detail!
Thank you very much for watching and the feedback
If I wasn't a DIYr and I had copious amounts of disposable income this is the guy I'd be hiring to do all my work. He knows the craft, he follows directions he doesn't make his own rules and if he does they exceed and go above and beyond than what the process calls for. This guy gives you your money's worth. I hope he is as good of a businessman as he is an autobody tech and instructor.
Thank you very much for the very kind words I really appreciate it.
The level of detail (without banging on about pointless stuff) in these videos is incredible. Thanks so much. I have literally started to watch most of these with a pen and pad taking notes!
Thanks a lot that is a really big compliment I do appreciate you watching!
finally someone to show this, other than bondo billy who just calls all his viewers trolls and name calls.... I wish i had the tools and equipment you have, but im going to have to rattlecan my 76 Jeep J10.. i had cut huge sections of the bedsides out and weld new clean metal.. I did my best, and now i just put a couple layers of bondo on, unfortnatly, where i welded the panels which spanned 8 feet, there is a hump where the welding was.. my welding was perfect.. no pin holes after i ground em down.. but it did cause a high spot between the two peices.. i cant hammeer out.. if i try to hammer that out it warps the metal all over.... so i have to use a decent amount of filler about 1/8th to 3/16 thick in some spots to make it all even out.. I just hope i can sand it all down properly or as good as i can..
As for paint i have to use rattle cans.. so im trying to find self etching primer cans from rustolium but i cant find em locally at any store, so i gatta use other primers from rustolium. bare metal primer or filler primer is all i can find. I think that will work though as im sanding the entire jeep mostly anyway to bare metal... And the paint im going to use is the metalic kobalt blue from rustolium, and the white gloss enamel from rustolium (its a two tone colored Jeep blue top white bottom) i like the new fan spray nozzles on those cans, i wish the kobalt had those nozzles versus the typical circular spray pattern those cans have... Then i will use rustoliums Universal Advanced clear coat, with the fan spray.. I used this white and clear coat on my brush guard, header panel, and roll bar. and it turned out really nice and shiney... so i think this will work in the end. For the tools, and money i have..
Dont think itll be a $10,000 paint job. or body work, and the Jeep will never be show car due to the amount of rust i had to repair on it... but all the rust is nearly gone now its taken me nearly 1 1/2 years to cut it all out and rebuild..
Nice, its a lot of work for sure and sounds like a great Job done with the jeep. Hopefully now you get the time to really enjoy it.
Followed this exact process on my caddy - worked out perfect - thanks !
Awesome thanks for the feedback and how it worked on the caddy.
I've been chipping away at my 92 Dodge D350 for weeks now and this video answered every question or 2nd guessing I had. Great vid. Keep the content coming.
Great to hear glad it helped
Man. I love a good teacher. Broke this all the way down. I just might have the confidence to do this on my own. Thank you!
You're welcome thanks for the feedback and good luck if you do decide to tackle it on your own.
Man talk about telling somebody how to do it the right way this guy is the best what a job
Thank you very much
You're an amazing teacher, I know you said PPE is important, that being said, voice over is an option so that you don't have to take chances with your health. Thanks for the education and inspiration.
I appreciate you watching and the feedback you are welcome.
Awesome job!! Thank you for all your knowledge your giving away!!! I still have lots of metal work on my Nova but by watching your videos I am gaining some confidence to do my own body work!! Thanks brother
Thats really cool to hear thanks a lot for the feedback and you are welcome!
Great video from someone who clearly knows what he is doing. Not the most glamorous part of the paint process but separates quality paint work from cave and pavers that last until the check clears the bank.
Thank you I appreciate the feedback.
Really enjoyed this one! Keep more of these coming. Great change from metal work. Thanks for the details.
Thanks a lot, it honestly is something I don't do as much being so labor intensive and really slows down the shop. For the future growth and expansion it is something I try and stay current on knowing and in practice.
Just watched part one. I am very pleased that you give out great information but you don’t come across as a know it all and your way is the only way to do this body work. Many do and what’s wrong with that is they are generally wrong when they say they know what they are talking about. So the world hears about how to do things the wrong way based on someone regurgitating their bad habits and bad information. And at the same time qdeclaring themselves a genius to boot.
Keep up the good work and continue down the path to helping others. We need more people like you. :) a breath of fresh air.
Thank you very much for the positive feedback, that is really nice to say. I will say I agree with what you stated as I have seen the same thing on the internet with other almost talking down while they are doing the job in my opinion completely wrong and don't care to open their mind up to new ways. Thats the only bad thing about putting stuff online even some of my older videos that were not too long ago. I try to learn something most of the time when I am working on a new project and a lot of the times you find out you just didn't know and was doing something wrong. Same might go with this bodywork video down the road when i find a better process. Thanks again for the watching and the comment
Thank you for the lesson, just paid a guy 500.00 to make the side of my van look worse. He took advantage of my 69 year old dumb self, telling me not to touch it till the primer dried. When I felt it I knew right away, of course he is not answering my calls.
You are welcome. I am sorry for your misfortune and that you came across one of the bad ones in this business.
Stumbled on the channel. I use pretty much the exact same process now. Just a different epoxy. If I had seen this video 10yrs ago it would have saved me a ton of heartache. Great info in here. Thanks for uplpad
You are welcome thanks for watching. I also had to learn the hard way 10 years ago so I understand where you're coming from 100%.
Bro I stg this is the only auto body video that goes over ALL the details and was actually helpful for what I'm doing, great video for us new guys ❤️❤️
That's great to hear glad it helped you out!
excellent tutorial!
Thank you
That man know what he is doing. A real professional. 👏👏
Thank you!
YES! Epoxy 1st, then filler. You are doing great work!
Thank you very much!
Thank you for this!! Im not doing a show car but you showing it in detail really helps and i know i dont need to go super crazy with it but i know the process now.
Your welcome. I am actually finishing up on the process in part 1 of not this high level panel to panel now that you might be interested in hopefully will be putting it out in the next few days.
Greetings from The Left Coast😊. You did an excellent video. Thank you for sharing it with the world. !!REVOLUTION!!
Hey awesome to hear from someone that far out there, thank you and glad you enjoyed it!
One of the best videos on youtube for this stuff. Thanks 👍
Thank you very much
27:50 Love the Farmers Tan. Also it looks like you aged by around 25 years. The dust in the beard.
haha yes I guess there is a glimpse in the future
Your process make more sense to me.. watched some other vids that preached filler on metal vs filler on epoxy. Like the idea of encapsulating the filler between epoxy coats. Nice job!
Thanks a lot glad you got something out of it.
You're amazing for sharing your craft. Thank you, sir.
I really appreciate the feedback, thanks for watching!
Thanks Man. My first video into learning these processes. The way you delivered the teachings, methods and lessons makes me believe if I pay close attention and study your methods some more.. I quite possibly can paint my own Buick T-Type that is a Grand National Hybrid now (original 1 stage Enamel paint) a sled my Pops passed on to me.
Great to hear that the video is helping you out, thanks for watching and the comment. BTW very cool car enjoy it and good luck with the build.
Thanks for another great video. I enjoyed watching the process and the use of different products. Back in the day it was bondo over steel and 131 fill and sand primer lacquer base. We've come a long way. Also I was on live stream with ( A may sing metal works) At the installation center. And they mention the quality of work you're doing and to subscribe to your channel. I agree, I've been subscribed to your channel for months. Keep the videos coming thanks.👍👍
Thanks a lot, yes that was really cool of him to do that I am humbled. I talked to Jubee a few days ago for the first time, what a really cool guy. I think we both have a lot of similar beliefs when it comes to building cars and I think his work is top notch. Who knows small world maybe we will be able to work on something together. One of these days ill try and cut work early and try and join the tech talk discussion you all do. A lot of times ill try and watch it in bits and segments when I have some down time.
@ty3095 oh man, talk about old memories..... I to remember the days of grabbing a gun with 131 and spraying over bare metal and bodywork..... look how far we have come
Awesome video ty for showing the correct way on doing body repair. 👍
Thanks a lot I appreciate your feedback
Great video! Thanks for all the tips, this is the best video on this on UA-cam!
You are welcome, thank you for watching and the really kind feedback!
Great instructional video for the newbies!!!
Thank you glad to hear that.
Awesome vid👍Packed with jewels of info. Always like to see different points of views on how to do things. It's always the small details that make or break a job
Thanks a lot and yes you are right it is all in the small details!
Great information and presented well. Inspiring me to do my own bodywork as opposed to paying a ton of money for someone else to. Not taking away anything from those who do it for a living or as side work to make some $$$, there's a lot of labor involved and that's why it's not cheap. Can't wait for the follow-up video Rick. Thanks!
I am glad you found it informative, I am getting ready to start the second part of the video so stay tuned. Thanks for the feedback!
Simply incredible work & teacher. Thank you very much for your vid's!
You are welcome. I do appreciate you watching!
New subscriber after seeing the quality of this body filler technique. Video quality is great too! Really well done!
Thank you very much for subscribing and the feedback after watching!
@@carthageclassiccars , your in-depth instruction and explanations is the best I’ve seen on UA-cam. Thank you for helping us all learn how to produce professional results!
I appreciate the information. I am going attempt to do the bodywork on my truck.
You are welcome, let me know how it works out for you, good luck!
You answered sooo many questions. Thank You!!! I got this...
Your welcome, good luck on your project!
I like your hands!
Thanks
Rick, this video is a goldmine. Thank you so much for your time and the knowledge you've shared here!!! Subscribed!!!
You're welcome and thanks a lot for watching and subscribing
I always watch your videos and love everyone you do! I’m not even doing any kind of bodywork. Funny thing is as I got older I’m 53 now and I really want to restore a car in my lifetime. Just don’t have a space for it or a car to restore.
It wouldn't be ideal but there are some projects that don't need this kind of level, and space to work on. I started working in a car port with the first few I have done. We use to tarp them off before paint.
Great stuff...your a great teacher..I wish I had your talents...best explained video out there.
Thank you very much!
Nice work not much pros like you on UA-cam!
Thank you
Great video I’ve always wanted a good explanation step by step
Thank you very much
Great video Rick, very good detail,I like the part about mixing the body filler.Keep up the great work....
Thank you and appreciate you giving feedback!
That's why I always use nitrile gloves and use alcohol on bare metal to remove moisture. Never put bondo over ANY paint. Be doing body work for 40 years. And yes always have good air filtration.
Those are all really good tips for sure I agree
Very enjoyable. Watching from Australia.
Thanks a lot for watching and commenting
I like the way he explains it and doesn't talk to much
Thank you!
Painter at my body shop insurance work only just purchasing a 72 Camaro great refresher on a complete ..my crew made me bring it home lol...
Thanks for the comment and watching and that will be a cool project good luck with your build.
another great video!i appreciate the detail in all of your stuff. keep up the great content.
Thanks a lot I appreciate you watching!
Fantastic video production! looking forward to watching more.
Thank you!
Had this guy painted my car I wouldn’t be dealing with a crack in the paint.. so much for paying “top notch” painters to do a “show” job… Rick, you care, make sure your charging what it costs man! This isn’t normal body guy stuff. You are a serious body guy.
Thank you very much for the compliment and I am very sorry you have that issue with the paint. Its scary out there on who you can trust with these cars and apparently even paying top dollar doesn't help.
Nice job! It is definitely more than a full time job,labor of love. One doesn’t understand why a job of that caliber costs several thousands.
Yes perfectly said I agree!
The top part of door, I would have run my blade from left to right in two even passes. First one with light pressure. Second pass a little tighter. Run 1 1/2" tape at the top and bottom for clean edges.
Good advice, thanks.
Well in-depth thank you
You are welcome, thank you for the comment and watching!
You earned a subscription, this was fantastic
Thank you very much!
vety good toppi
Beautiful mate, keep up the great work 👍
Thanks a lot
Outstanding video!!
Thank you
Excellent video!
Thank you
your a great teacher. ty
You are welcome thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice job. Keeping it real!
Thanks!
Top watch very good information.
Thanks
Just found your channel. Liked and shared also subscribed. Thank you for all the great how to do it right. All my best.
You are welcome and thanks for the following!
Enjoyed this video. Some good fine points about blocking and great explanation of choosing the right blocking tool and putty. I use U-pol professional body filler. It’s $37 a gallon. There’s no separation in the container of resin and filler, so no need to stir it up if it’s been on the shelf. Also I don’t see that there’s an issue with air bubbles. Never could justify expense of the Rage Ultra and Gold putty. The basic Evergreen putty is garbage compared to the U-pol putty and way more expensive. Also used U-pol glazing putty. Their high build primer worked nice for me, leveling off nicely on its own. Sorry to sound like U-pol commercial. Thx for sharing your tips!
I have used the U-POL before and have also not had any bad experiences with it. Honestly I also do like their high build as well so I agree with everything you said. It is hard paying the extra for the rage sometimes but to me its small extra cost in the grand scheme of building these high end show cars.
U-Pol is good stuff, especially the 2k high build.
@@warrenlewis3977 yes i agree!
@@carthageclassiccars Real quick Carthage...the BEST epoxy on earth is made by Awlgrip. They're 545 epoxy is world class stuff. Look it up.
i agree, I've been using u pol body filler for over 10 years now and been very happy with the way it spreads and sands. can't beat the price compared to rage
Muinto bom trabalho parabens! (very good service, congratulations).
Thank you!
Been waiting for this video! Thank you
You are welcome and thanks for watching!
Try wax and grease remover to clean your plastic spreads off when it's tacky, it works amazing!
Good suggestion I have used it in the past and your right it works.
Thank you for this video
You're welcome!
I have a stainless steel pot that a gallon slid in . I drill holes in the gallon fill the gallon with lacquered tinner . When I work with filler I just drop it in . Then I clean them 5 minutes later or 10 it’s cleaner faster and I buy multiple spreaders . I move slow but I’m actually moving fast
That's a good piece of advice thanks for sharing.
Saved
What a fantastic video I feel like you catered it to me personally hah! Well done this is a fantastic video!
Thanks a lot, when you get that Nova your all set.
The best tut.
Thank you very much
thanks for the tips boss 👊👊
You are welcome!
Love your work exactly how I do it but I use clean rags and gp thinners to clean my applicators up and I weigh my filler with the Hardner to exactly 2% I use the same filler main reason y I don’t put body filler on bare metal is because of the ingredients in the Hardner used in body filler actually reacts with the steel and causes rust in time under the filler
Thanks a lot and appreciate the feedback on how you do things. The scale is the best way to go about your getting the perfect recommended amount. Honestly the main reason I don't use a scale is depending on weather here I might try to slow down the drying on the filler as it does get very hot here and using the 2% will give you not enough working time.
Me gustó de Puerto Rico
gracias
Great job!
Thank you very much! Next time you are up here in NC at a show Ill try and stop by your booth and introduce myself as I use your products on a almost daily basis.
@@carthageclassiccars absolutely! Thanks Man!
this guy rock!
Appreciate it!
Nice work
Thank you!
Great recipe
Thank you!
Good information....thanks.
You are welcome!
Long & some curved strong block sandings by hand no air tools with guide coat powder go & do it 3 to 5 times before painting. This will make you a five star pro.if body work is perfect. Just sand the primer reprime many times no putty. I worked for mercedes owner hates putty. Got tons of reasons. If i can do it you can too.
The filler in my opinion gets the panel to panel profiling perfect. It would be darn near impossible to get them lined up every edge / seam not using the filler. Besides that I agree if the metal is perfect (it never is) on these old cars and the amount of welding done on them then the filler step is not needed.
Nice work!
Thank you very much!
It should really be put on epoxy primer however never seen filler fail when applied directly to metal which the collision repair industry mostly does.
If you look at the pervious video on this car (lead work) you can see this car was in Epoxy primer on bare metal. You are correct on your statement and I think I covered that in the video but thanks for verifying.
@@carthageclassiccars just a statement of other hey sayers but cool. Love that car!
@@alelectric2767 Thanks, yea I know a lot go back and forth but I am with you 100% all bare metal epoxy primer to seal it up in the restoration world.
Nick cage teaching me auto body
haha thanks a lot I think :)
Dig the channel. 😎
Thank you!
SPI makes a great epoxy primer for bare metal. Not sure how it lays down over filler. I haven't gotten that far yet.
Thanks for the feedback I will remember that if I want to try something else.
the liner blocks you have are clear... mine are blue... and there not so true and flat.. not a fan... but maybe the older ones were good? 🤔
I saw they switched to the blue. These blocks have been working alright for me no real complaints but a few have broke on the last hand piece.
the best way to explain why it is key to apply filler over epoxy and not bare metal... so many people still apply filler over bare metal... that is proven to be the wrong way... also that is the best filler for high end paint work ... far superior to 3m platinum plus filler.... had to repaint 2 cars due to corrsion from bare metal break threws and 3m filller.... I will never ... ever use 3m filler agian... again all these people say you can apply filler over bare metal...not a good idea
Yes I also have had to learn the hard way and have seen many times removing filler with rust spots behind it. I do see now a lot of people that were all about filler on bare metal changing their ways. I think we are getting just takes a little time for people to catch on.
kami biasa menggunakan bagian belakang gergaji kayu untuk panel lurus seperti itu
I ran out of epoxy, what can I safely use to prevent flash rust over my body work on the lead seams?
I would personally go and get some more epoxy. Maybe even a can or two of the 2 k stuff you have to pop the bottom of the can to mix.
Thank you for all the detail info when will the next step be posted on this car
You are welcome I am currently fitting the trim and everything else that needs to be finalized then I will start phase 2. I am mostly a metal shop so getting around to the bodywork stuff is harder but hopefully in a couple more weeks ill be finished with it.
You do awesome work I have a question do you epoxy the under neath side of car and fender wells
@@alisafoley4004 Thanks I do epoxy everywhere I think in the next video I am going to go over that a little bit and how to do the bodywork on the chassis
great video on bodywork. i'll assume this car was taken down to bare metal. when you do final paint will the car panels like fenders, door, hood be painted separately.
Yes if you see the previous video this car was in was the Guide to lead body seams that has this car and shows the bare metal before epoxy if you wanted to check it out. Thanks for watching and the feedback!
Did you say in the video to eat fried chicken before doing body work if so why ? Is there something in the fried chicken that can speed up the process ?
I said don't eat fried chicken before doing body work the reason is greasy foods can stay on your hands and absorb into the filler and create fish eyes and other issues when painting.
@@carthageclassiccars
New subscriber
Great channel , i was just having some fun with that question really liked your emphasis on wearing the gloves when touching the panels i do the same . Theres a few guys on you tube , one of which someone else mentioned in the comments that run there bare hands all over car and then comment and scream how its ok , ( not a good way to teach ) I also liked your thoughts on filler over epoxy or on bare metal , Ive done both and for my everyday driver its filler on bare metal with no issues either way . The camera work and editing is fantastic looking forward to more videos !
@@jimbrown3720 haha its early in the morning and I missed the joke, sorry about that one. Thanks a lot for subscribing and the feedback/comment. Also Yes a very valid point the collision and restoration world are very different in how you would go about the process.
Hey so what do you do about the inside of a door jamb? I had to make a metal patch panel right by my door striker. It it okay to use filler in those areas that will see more aggressive use
That will be in the last part of the video but try and make sure your patch is as close to haveing the least amount of filler as you can. I try and shoot for 1/6 inch. Then epoxy prime just like the outside body, apply filler block down area and go with a 2K primer and keep sanding to get it smooth.