Holy shit indeed. Okay let me address a few things: - Don't stroke a snake, it's stressful and annoying. They're not a puppy. They don't even want to be held in the first place, they just put up with it. Handle them as little as you can (unless you're trying to tame them). - Don't use sand (it's too far removed from their natural habitats). Aspen is easy and good, and it absorbs their waste and gets rid of some of the odour. Easier to spot clean since waste stands out more, and easier to clean the whole enclosure. - That cave/hide, is MASSIVE! holy shit. A hide needs to be only just big enough for the snake. They ideally want to be able to touch all the walls, so as they know they are safe and secure in there. Also they can get warmer that way with there being less space for air. That is ridiculously large. - Snakes need a second hide on the cool end of the enclosure. They want to be hidden, and the only way that snake can do that, is to be on the hot end. Although with that stupidly massive cave, I don't know if it would be all that hot, which is also a problem. - No, the optimal temperature is NOT 26/30 degrees celsius. For the Children's Python, Stimson's Python and Spotted Python, the ideal should be pretty much 32 degrees. Don't go over 33. The cool end is like 26 ish degrees. Maybe he didn't realise that those 2 numbers were the hot and cool end, and NOT a general accepted range for the hot end. But either way it's wrong. 30 isn't hot enough to be ideal. - Having such a large cave, the thermostat would have to be set for that particular spot in mind (the top of the cave). But it's a bit of an uneven and strange spot for the snake to need to be. Also the cave is so huge, that the inside of the cave down on ground-level, would then be WAY below the ideal 32c. Especially considering that the snake is out in the open as far as where the enclosure is, and it incorrectly wasn't provided with any other hiding spots or partial cover (not even a 2nd cave on the cool end); the snake will therefore be in it's cave a lot of the time, where it's not hot enough. Unless the thermostat is set at a higher temperature so as the inside of the cave is more ideal. But then the top of the cave would be way too fucking hot (especially considering the snake will want to bask directly under it at times, but more on that later). Edit: EXCEPT NO! because there's no fucking thermostat AT ALL. Holy shit - Fuck me dead, there's no thermostat. That light bulb (that I can't vouch for, since I don't know what it is exactly), is at full blast without any regulation. There's no temperature probe inside the enclosure. That's some basic ass shit. My god. So the top of that hide, would likely be absolutely dangerously hot. No idea what wattage is being used. Also sand gets fucking hot when under a full blast unregulated heat source. That is how you fry an animal to death. Hopefully it's a somewhat low wattage then, but then that means the snake will have digestion issues due to not having enough heat, and probably why Harry said "26 degrees celsius", which is way less than the ideal 32c for that species. Depressing as fuck. - Okay just to mention this, as far as light and heat goes; snakes NEED UVA, UVB, (generally lots of visible light, too), IRA, IRB (IRC is nice, too). Just providing them with a heat mat, or a ceramic lamp, is NOT okay. Because that is only providing infrared C, and is neglecting IRB and IRA (which are very important). Providing them with ZERO UVB and UVA, is a huge problem. - I can't fully tell what light that is, but "tungsten filament lamps" are the optimal heat source (go to a hardware store). This is because they provide infrared A, infrared B, and some infrared C (get the right wattage for the temps needed. Not going higher than you need to, means a brighter light; which is good). Make sure the beam is more than 30 degrees, and more like 80 degrees is common (otherwise it's too small of a light patch and this can be dangerous for the animal). Get a ceramic socket (plastic can melt). ALSO with a light, you need a "dimming thermostat" (otherwise the light will go on and off, a lot). People usually just go with ceramic lamps, or a heat mat, but they only provide infrared C. IRC, just warms the outside of the skin/scales, and doesn't penetrate deep, so their core remains cold, unless they spend allll their time under the heat, which can be TOO much heat on their skin, but they are trying to warm their core, so they are doing a trade-off. It also has health benefits like better healing, and the animal will be FAR more active, because they are warm, and have energy. - Snakes NEED UV rays from a UVB tube (not just lizards and stuff). Arcadia has the best shit and their website is very helpful. Snakes require and utilise UVA and UVB. It's how they produce vitamin D. They will also be out basking a lot more, like with having tungsten filament lights. - Remember that ANY light source at night time, is something the snake can see (including the blue/purple and red bulbs. Which is annoying to them, and fucks with their circadian rhythm. You want to make sure they have a day/night cycle. This means turning off the UVB and halogen light at night time (put them on a timer). If you have lights on elsewhere in the house, then put a cover over the enclosure, or a towel over the glass, etc. Just be safe. snakes don't need heat at night time. They get it in the day. You can put rock slates under the lamp (make sure they don't get too hot, use a temperature gun). They will retain heat, and the enclosure also won't get cold as quickly (via IRC). The only exception is if your winter nights are reallyyyyy cold (find out what is too cold for your species). In which case, you can also mount like a ceramic lamp just for those nights. Just so as the enclosure doesn't get too cold. Or even a heat mat just for those nights. - Snakes have all sorts of eating time spans. But the Children's python is like once a week when young, then over time it becomes 1 every 2 weeks is ideal. Or longer! I'd recommend going by their body weight, and seeing how often is necessary. I personally feed my Spotted Python once every 3-4 weeks, and she doesn't lose any weight at all, and is a very healthy weight. I wouldn't leave it longer than that though. Plus, you want to leave yourself some room, in case it doesn't eat. So, NEVER twice a week. That is way too much. Don't power feed your snake to force them to grow as much as possible. SO many reptiles are obese, and it's sad. The meal should also be the same thickness as the thickest part of their body. Don't go any thicker since there's no need to push it. Make sure you know the signs of a snake that needs more or less weight, and adjust accordingly. Try to switch from mice to rats, as soon as you can. Snakes are often picky about switching to rats, but you need to, because rats grow bigger as adults (and feeding multiple mice, is less ideal). Forget about that chunk of meat you saw in the video. use rodents (for these particular snakes). You can also switch up their meals and stuff for variety, but it's not overly necessary. You should try to use different brands here and there, though, because not all rats are the same (particularly what they fed the rat). - Harry... oh my god. Snakes do not "dislocate" their bottom jaw. That is a myth. Jesus christ lol. - The food can go in both directions if you know about regurgitation, or even a snake bite of the "feeding response" variety. - Okay, "more contact" with your snake, does tame them and gets them used to handling. But give them their space. Just holding them all day is VERY stressful for the animal. For a pissy snake, you only need to hold them gently for 15 minutes, twice a day (so as you can feed them and clean their enclosure easier, without them trying to kill you lol). The snake in the video is NOT a pissy snake, and hence, ideally should not be held, EVER. You can if you want here and there of course, but it's still adding stress. Remember that it's just for you, and not the snake. Also remember to not anthropomorphise them. Come on Harry. Very poor. This segment has contributed to putting animals in danger. Edit: 0:54 - Holy fuck there's mites in the water and at least one is crawling on the far edge of the bowl. Good lord. This is dismal. How did this get on tv. This is painting a very bad image of reptile owners. Probably fairly! to be quite honest. Generally speaking. Hardly any reptile owners have their reptile care up to the basic standard that it should be at. Most of them just through pure ignorance, and not knowing better, unfortunately. I was one of them, and am still improving my care to get it to what I feel is a basic standard. Harry should have known enough to set that owner straight. Or at least someone working on the show should have known at least the super mediocre snake-hobby-basics of snake care (including the incorrect folklore and all), if they're doing a story on it. Even just that level of knowledge, would be a MASSIVE improvement here.
I updated it a smidgen! and it's so god damn unforgivingly long! that I need to add the rest here: To readers: Please do your research before purchasing a snake. It's a long commitment (multiple decades). It does cost a good bit of money, even for just 1 snake (not to mention the enclosure needs to be quite large). There's a lot of tweaking and figuring things out and learning about UV and IR and thermostats and watts and all this shit. Problems arise where you need to spend the time to research and figure out what is happening, which is hard, because so many even IN the hobby, are just so misinformed (even this comment, I have updated, because the first version is when I didn't know about the UV and IR scale, which is SO important for a snake, yet hardly anyone in the hobby knows this). It's so important to know what you're doing so as the animal doesn't suffer. So many snakes suffer from poor care (they might be alive and seem okay-enough, but they are cold at their core, aren't healing well, aren't producing much vitamin D, their eyes are poor, their brain is wasting away since it's not being stimulated by it's environment, and they are not thriving at all). There's a lot to learn. Feeding, types of thermostats, how to set up an enclosure correctly, knowing what they do in the wild to provide that for them, how to clean the cage properly (the right products to use that are safe), etc. Once you have the right information. It's quite easy. But do still check out what others are doing from time to time, because it is possible to miss certain pieces of information that are legit (I sure have!). OR, you could just treat the animal like shit. Your call, unfortunately. No real regulations in place here. Extra: - Just a tip. A quick and easy way to check surface temperatures around the enclosure (they should read about 32 on the hot end where they will bask, ideally), is to use a 9V temperature gun (like 25-50 bux from bunnings or total tools or whatever). Don't get a $3 one off eBay that runs on triple A batteries, since they're often not as accurate. Now, buy 2 of them, both different brands (so as you can tell when one of them is playing up, because the other one won't show the same result). - The branch is nice, but they like to climb, so it should be a little more fitting for climbing up higher. - There could to ideally be something rough that they can get their shed off easier with. - Snakes CAN regulate their temperature in the wild by using hot surfaces from the sun (infrared C), or sheltering away in colder locations. So it's not just that they must be the same temperature as their environment. As if that is some static number. Each environment has hot and cool aspects to it that snakes use. As far as them being coldblooded? sure.
I wouldn't suggest aspen for Ball Pythons in specific. There's a lot of cases of Ball pythons having stuck shed because of incorrect substrate- Coconut fiber is always nice for Ball Pythons. It keeps humidity, and won't harm the snake. Some snakes similar to Ball Pythons don't NEED lights to keep it warm. Ball pythons in specific prefer to hide with a heat mat, and I hear people who do that with their Leopard Gecko's. They get all the stuff they need from the food they eat. But yes, it is NUTS how people can go so damn wrong with their enclosures, especially when they're going to be on TV. All of them are minimal effort, and I cant believe they had the audacity to put SAND in an enclosure for a SNAKE. Some people mistake reptiles that live in the desert need sand substrate when they don't understand what kind of biome in the Desert, those reptiles live in. For Leopard Gecko's, for example, sand is very dangerous- because they lick a lot, much like Bearded Dragons. I also dont think they understand that you dont have to take your snake out often so it can be happy, you only hold your snake for your own entertainment- not for the snake's well-being.
Great information. I'm looking at setting up an enclosure for my first spotted python probably throughout the next year. Not rushing into the purchase till I have a decent environment for the snake. Any resource loactions you can share so I can continue my research. Thanks
@@shibainu8062 - I probably should have made it clear in that part of the comment that I'm just talking about the Stimsons, Childrens and Spotted, rather than other snake species (same kind of applies for the whole comment, even though there's a lot of overlap with other species of course). The care a snake species requires can definitely vary WILDLY (from a different snake species). Pretty sad stuff indeed. If Harry knows next to nothing about snakes, it's then extremely irresponsible to not get an exotic reptile vet or something on the episode, even over a video call. I don't think a whole lot of them would turn that offer down, and maybe that vet wouldn't be the ideal person, but they'd likely still be 500 times more knowledgeable than Harry on the subject. Though if the show producers or whatever wanted it to be a "what to do" rather than a "what NOT to do" segment, then the veterinarian would probably get screwed over as if they're in support of the care this snake is getting, that they probably wouldn't even know about.
Omg when he said snakes can dislocate their jaw I laughed but also was annoyed snakes cannot dislocate their jaw, their lower jaw is not fixed together like mammels instead they have a two separate bones they also have stretchy skin and there is one more thing but I forgot it
All the python people in the comments doing right by our beloved animals. I have a stimmy and now a hatchie Spotted. Very much in love with Anteresia :) Hopefully people research and go to an expert or a friend who has HEALTHY animals for advice.
Edward The Snek what size do u feed yours tho I feed mine I think small or normal rats there big and he’s 2 years old and he is healthy so far so I think it’s fine and he will poke his head out if he is Hungary so I feed him then
+VaniSri Ramachandran It's possible but not likely. When I get bite I wash the area and use hand sanitizer. I have never had an infection from a snake bite.
A light is rubbish to use, since it should be a ceramic heat emitter that doesn't put out light. They don't need UV, and ceramic is better. But heat from above is absolutely recommended. Heat matts are fine too. They get heat from either option when done right. Please don't try to spread information, if you don't know what you're talking about. Even the bare, bare basics.
Snakes get their heat from above (the sun) and bask that way. They can absorb heat any way as they are cold blooded. Saw a wild racer basking in the sun just the other day. Anyway yeah, you’re an idiot. Uv and over head lights are not bad for your animal.
@@ForeverFridayVideo They're not bad, its just that not many snakes have normal basking behaviour- and some snakes prefer to hide during the warming process. The subject between mats and lights are very controversial, but I don't think any of them are bad- its just up to what kind of snake you have, or preference. For my Ball Python, I use a heat mat under my enclosure- I put a hide on top of the warm side, and she hides inside for most of the day. The cold side has its own hide, along with the water. I also have vines and logs because Ball Pythons love to climb. The heat mat works for me and my snake, and that's all that matters.
Holy shit indeed. Okay let me address a few things:
- Don't stroke a snake, it's stressful and annoying. They're not a puppy. They don't even want to be held in the first place, they just put up with it. Handle them as little as you can (unless you're trying to tame them).
- Don't use sand (it's too far removed from their natural habitats). Aspen is easy and good, and it absorbs their waste and gets rid of some of the odour. Easier to spot clean since waste stands out more, and easier to clean the whole enclosure.
- That cave/hide, is MASSIVE! holy shit. A hide needs to be only just big enough for the snake. They ideally want to be able to touch all the walls, so as they know they are safe and secure in there. Also they can get warmer that way with there being less space for air. That is ridiculously large.
- Snakes need a second hide on the cool end of the enclosure. They want to be hidden, and the only way that snake can do that, is to be on the hot end. Although with that stupidly massive cave, I don't know if it would be all that hot, which is also a problem.
- No, the optimal temperature is NOT 26/30 degrees celsius. For the Children's Python, Stimson's Python and Spotted Python, the ideal should be pretty much 32 degrees. Don't go over 33. The cool end is like 26 ish degrees.
Maybe he didn't realise that those 2 numbers were the hot and cool end, and NOT a general accepted range for the hot end. But either way it's wrong. 30 isn't hot enough to be ideal.
- Having such a large cave, the thermostat would have to be set for that particular spot in mind (the top of the cave). But it's a bit of an uneven and strange spot for the snake to need to be. Also the cave is so huge, that the inside of the cave down on ground-level, would then be WAY below the ideal 32c.
Especially considering that the snake is out in the open as far as where the enclosure is, and it incorrectly wasn't provided with any other hiding spots or partial cover (not even a 2nd cave on the cool end); the snake will therefore be in it's cave a lot of the time, where it's not hot enough.
Unless the thermostat is set at a higher temperature so as the inside of the cave is more ideal. But then the top of the cave would be way too fucking hot (especially considering the snake will want to bask directly under it at times, but more on that later).
Edit: EXCEPT NO! because there's no fucking thermostat AT ALL. Holy shit
- Fuck me dead, there's no thermostat. That light bulb (that I can't vouch for, since I don't know what it is exactly), is at full blast without any regulation. There's no temperature probe inside the enclosure. That's some basic ass shit. My god. So the top of that hide, would likely be absolutely dangerously hot. No idea what wattage is being used.
Also sand gets fucking hot when under a full blast unregulated heat source. That is how you fry an animal to death. Hopefully it's a somewhat low wattage then, but then that means the snake will have digestion issues due to not having enough heat, and probably why Harry said "26 degrees celsius", which is way less than the ideal 32c for that species.
Depressing as fuck.
- Okay just to mention this, as far as light and heat goes; snakes NEED UVA, UVB, (generally lots of visible light, too), IRA, IRB (IRC is nice, too).
Just providing them with a heat mat, or a ceramic lamp, is NOT okay. Because that is only providing infrared C, and is neglecting IRB and IRA (which are very important).
Providing them with ZERO UVB and UVA, is a huge problem.
- I can't fully tell what light that is, but "tungsten filament lamps" are the optimal heat source (go to a hardware store). This is because they provide infrared A, infrared B, and some infrared C (get the right wattage for the temps needed. Not going higher than you need to, means a brighter light; which is good). Make sure the beam is more than 30 degrees, and more like 80 degrees is common (otherwise it's too small of a light patch and this can be dangerous for the animal). Get a ceramic socket (plastic can melt).
ALSO with a light, you need a "dimming thermostat" (otherwise the light will go on and off, a lot).
People usually just go with ceramic lamps, or a heat mat, but they only provide infrared C. IRC, just warms the outside of the skin/scales, and doesn't penetrate deep, so their core remains cold, unless they spend allll their time under the heat, which can be TOO much heat on their skin, but they are trying to warm their core, so they are doing a trade-off.
It also has health benefits like better healing, and the animal will be FAR more active, because they are warm, and have energy.
- Snakes NEED UV rays from a UVB tube (not just lizards and stuff). Arcadia has the best shit and their website is very helpful. Snakes require and utilise UVA and UVB. It's how they produce vitamin D. They will also be out basking a lot more, like with having tungsten filament lights.
- Remember that ANY light source at night time, is something the snake can see (including the blue/purple and red bulbs. Which is annoying to them, and fucks with their circadian rhythm. You want to make sure they have a day/night cycle. This means turning off the UVB and halogen light at night time (put them on a timer). If you have lights on elsewhere in the house, then put a cover over the enclosure, or a towel over the glass, etc. Just be safe.
snakes don't need heat at night time. They get it in the day. You can put rock slates under the lamp (make sure they don't get too hot, use a temperature gun). They will retain heat, and the enclosure also won't get cold as quickly (via IRC).
The only exception is if your winter nights are reallyyyyy cold (find out what is too cold for your species). In which case, you can also mount like a ceramic lamp just for those nights. Just so as the enclosure doesn't get too cold. Or even a heat mat just for those nights.
- Snakes have all sorts of eating time spans. But the Children's python is like once a week when young, then over time it becomes 1 every 2 weeks is ideal. Or longer! I'd recommend going by their body weight, and seeing how often is necessary. I personally feed my Spotted Python once every 3-4 weeks, and she doesn't lose any weight at all, and is a very healthy weight. I wouldn't leave it longer than that though. Plus, you want to leave yourself some room, in case it doesn't eat.
So, NEVER twice a week. That is way too much. Don't power feed your snake to force them to grow as much as possible. SO many reptiles are obese, and it's sad.
The meal should also be the same thickness as the thickest part of their body. Don't go any thicker since there's no need to push it. Make sure you know the signs of a snake that needs more or less weight, and adjust accordingly.
Try to switch from mice to rats, as soon as you can. Snakes are often picky about switching to rats, but you need to, because rats grow bigger as adults (and feeding multiple mice, is less ideal).
Forget about that chunk of meat you saw in the video. use rodents (for these particular snakes). You can also switch up their meals and stuff for variety, but it's not overly necessary. You should try to use different brands here and there, though, because not all rats are the same (particularly what they fed the rat).
- Harry... oh my god. Snakes do not "dislocate" their bottom jaw. That is a myth. Jesus christ lol.
- The food can go in both directions if you know about regurgitation, or even a snake bite of the "feeding response" variety.
- Okay, "more contact" with your snake, does tame them and gets them used to handling. But give them their space. Just holding them all day is VERY stressful for the animal. For a pissy snake, you only need to hold them gently for 15 minutes, twice a day (so as you can feed them and clean their enclosure easier, without them trying to kill you lol).
The snake in the video is NOT a pissy snake, and hence, ideally should not be held, EVER. You can if you want here and there of course, but it's still adding stress. Remember that it's just for you, and not the snake. Also remember to not anthropomorphise them.
Come on Harry. Very poor. This segment has contributed to putting animals in danger.
Edit: 0:54 - Holy fuck there's mites in the water and at least one is crawling on the far edge of the bowl. Good lord. This is dismal. How did this get on tv.
This is painting a very bad image of reptile owners. Probably fairly! to be quite honest. Generally speaking. Hardly any reptile owners have their reptile care up to the basic standard that it should be at. Most of them just through pure ignorance, and not knowing better, unfortunately. I was one of them, and am still improving my care to get it to what I feel is a basic standard.
Harry should have known enough to set that owner straight. Or at least someone working on the show should have known at least the super mediocre snake-hobby-basics of snake care (including the incorrect folklore and all), if they're doing a story on it. Even just that level of knowledge, would be a MASSIVE improvement here.
Bravo. It's like you read my mind.
I updated it a smidgen! and it's so god damn unforgivingly long! that I need to add the rest here:
To readers: Please do your research before purchasing a snake. It's a long commitment (multiple decades). It does cost a good bit of money, even for just 1 snake (not to mention the enclosure needs to be quite large). There's a lot of tweaking and figuring things out and learning about UV and IR and thermostats and watts and all this shit.
Problems arise where you need to spend the time to research and figure out what is happening, which is hard, because so many even IN the hobby, are just so misinformed (even this comment, I have updated, because the first version is when I didn't know about the UV and IR scale, which is SO important for a snake, yet hardly anyone in the hobby knows this).
It's so important to know what you're doing so as the animal doesn't suffer. So many snakes suffer from poor care (they might be alive and seem okay-enough, but they are cold at their core, aren't healing well, aren't producing much vitamin D, their eyes are poor, their brain is wasting away since it's not being stimulated by it's environment, and they are not thriving at all).
There's a lot to learn. Feeding, types of thermostats, how to set up an enclosure correctly, knowing what they do in the wild to provide that for them, how to clean the cage properly (the right products to use that are safe), etc.
Once you have the right information. It's quite easy. But do still check out what others are doing from time to time, because it is possible to miss certain pieces of information that are legit (I sure have!).
OR, you could just treat the animal like shit. Your call, unfortunately. No real regulations in place here.
Extra:
- Just a tip. A quick and easy way to check surface temperatures around the enclosure (they should read about 32 on the hot end where they will bask, ideally), is to use a 9V temperature gun (like 25-50 bux from bunnings or total tools or whatever). Don't get a $3 one off eBay that runs on triple A batteries, since they're often not as accurate. Now, buy 2 of them, both different brands (so as you can tell when one of them is playing up, because the other one won't show the same result).
- The branch is nice, but they like to climb, so it should be a little more fitting for climbing up higher.
- There could to ideally be something rough that they can get their shed off easier with.
- Snakes CAN regulate their temperature in the wild by using hot surfaces from the sun (infrared C), or sheltering away in colder locations. So it's not just that they must be the same temperature as their environment. As if that is some static number. Each environment has hot and cool aspects to it that snakes use.
As far as them being coldblooded? sure.
I wouldn't suggest aspen for Ball Pythons in specific. There's a lot of cases of Ball pythons having stuck shed because of incorrect substrate- Coconut fiber is always nice for Ball Pythons. It keeps humidity, and won't harm the snake.
Some snakes similar to Ball Pythons don't NEED lights to keep it warm. Ball pythons in specific prefer to hide with a heat mat, and I hear people who do that with their Leopard Gecko's. They get all the stuff they need from the food they eat.
But yes, it is NUTS how people can go so damn wrong with their enclosures, especially when they're going to be on TV. All of them are minimal effort, and I cant believe they had the audacity to put SAND in an enclosure for a SNAKE. Some people mistake reptiles that live in the desert need sand substrate when they don't understand what kind of biome in the Desert, those reptiles live in. For Leopard Gecko's, for example, sand is very dangerous- because they lick a lot, much like Bearded Dragons. I also dont think they understand that you dont have to take your snake out often so it can be happy, you only hold your snake for your own entertainment- not for the snake's well-being.
Great information. I'm looking at setting up an enclosure for my first spotted python probably throughout the next year. Not rushing into the purchase till I have a decent environment for the snake.
Any resource loactions you can share so I can continue my research. Thanks
@@shibainu8062 - I probably should have made it clear in that part of the comment that I'm just talking about the Stimsons, Childrens and Spotted, rather than other snake species (same kind of applies for the whole comment, even though there's a lot of overlap with other species of course). The care a snake species requires can definitely vary WILDLY (from a different snake species).
Pretty sad stuff indeed. If Harry knows next to nothing about snakes, it's then extremely irresponsible to not get an exotic reptile vet or something on the episode, even over a video call. I don't think a whole lot of them would turn that offer down, and maybe that vet wouldn't be the ideal person, but they'd likely still be 500 times more knowledgeable than Harry on the subject.
Though if the show producers or whatever wanted it to be a "what to do" rather than a "what NOT to do" segment, then the veterinarian would probably get screwed over as if they're in support of the care this snake is getting, that they probably wouldn't even know about.
please don’t use this as your care sheet.
Sand= bad for our beloved danger noodles
not necessarily
DONT USE SAND!
SAND IS VERY BAD FOR SNAKES
A Snake haha
some snakes such as a Woma live in the desert, sand is ok then
Aspen will do
CrazyRandomPerson But that’s why snakes live longer in captivity because we are able to take away dangerous hazards that they have in the wild
Omg when he said snakes can dislocate their jaw I laughed but also was annoyed snakes cannot dislocate their jaw, their lower jaw is not fixed together like mammels instead they have a two separate bones they also have stretchy skin and there is one more thing but I forgot it
chugs Rodríguez lol ik I have a children’s I love watching her swallow mice twice as big as her head 🤣
Sand is not a good bedding. It gets caught in their system like a paperjam.
snakes don't dislocate their jaw and sand is horrible
Dr Harry Cooper still Looks as fantastic as ever, I could listen to Him talk about animals all day ^^
They don't dislocate their jaw they just don't have a fused jaw
I thought this video was decent until i saw *SAND*
Who is Peter and Gary?
AnimalGame Swart lol
What is this guy called?
Please don't use sand my god
All the python people in the comments doing right by our beloved animals. I have a stimmy and now a hatchie Spotted. Very much in love with Anteresia :) Hopefully people research and go to an expert or a friend who has HEALTHY animals for advice.
Once or twice a week I feed my spotted python once a month
ur gonna starve it, I feed my stimpsons python once a week.
Edward The Snek what size do u feed yours tho I feed mine I think small or normal rats there big and he’s 2 years old and he is healthy so far so I think it’s fine and he will poke his head out if he is Hungary so I feed him then
@@kobyvb22 I think thats ok, not sure tho. I feed my stimpsons python (60cm and 1 year old) a weaning mice every week.
Edward The Snek yeh he’s 1 metre and there pretty big rats
@@snekward snakes don't need to eat super regularly and adults usually only need to receive bigger meals less often
Snakes eat one nice sized meal every 2 weeks
Sneeks
Not Sand!
It's name is Children Phyton
Does it bite? or its bite does cause venom or disase
+VaniSri Ramachandran Any snake can bite. Handle gently and the snake will get used to it. Python's are NOT venomous..
+Wildlife Conservation Education Yes But pythons can bite cause some diseases So...Children python can bite and.....cause disease?
+VaniSri Ramachandran It's possible but not likely. When I get bite I wash the area and use hand sanitizer. I have never had an infection from a snake bite.
Great!
As children their bites feel like pinches so you will be fine while handling it as long as you do treat it.
Don’t do sand
Snakes absorb heat from their tummies. A light is rubbish to use.
A light is rubbish to use, since it should be a ceramic heat emitter that doesn't put out light. They don't need UV, and ceramic is better.
But heat from above is absolutely recommended. Heat matts are fine too.
They get heat from either option when done right.
Please don't try to spread information, if you don't know what you're talking about. Even the bare, bare basics.
Snakes get their heat from above (the sun) and bask that way. They can absorb heat any way as they are cold blooded. Saw a wild racer basking in the sun just the other day. Anyway yeah, you’re an idiot. Uv and over head lights are not bad for your animal.
@@ForeverFridayVideo They're not bad, its just that not many snakes have normal basking behaviour- and some snakes prefer to hide during the warming process. The subject between mats and lights are very controversial, but I don't think any of them are bad- its just up to what kind of snake you have, or preference.
For my Ball Python, I use a heat mat under my enclosure- I put a hide on top of the warm side, and she hides inside for most of the day. The cold side has its own hide, along with the water. I also have vines and logs because Ball Pythons love to climb. The heat mat works for me and my snake, and that's all that matters.
Wow... Just... No.