V15 Climber's Top 3 Finger Strength Exercises
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- Опубліковано 12 лют 2023
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About The Guest:
Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions).
We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicity and consistency, top 3 finger training methods, how to train full crimps, and much more.
Full Show Notes 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episode...
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As someone with hearing loss I really appreciate these videos being put up on UA-cam. When first listening to this episode I missed so much of what was talked about and now with the auto-generated subtitles and visuals make actually learning from these amazing climbers so much easier. I really appreciate the work that’s being put into this!
There is also transcription for every episode, see info on this video!
Yves is such a beast !
Quebec is well represented here. :-)
This is such a good distillation!
ha, in your episode with Caleb last week he was saying he pretty much only did max hangs, and here Yves is basically describing almost all his finger training in terms of volume of repeaters. maybe you were onto something when you said just pick something you like and stick with it...
Yeah you would really need a proper study with at least 100 climbers (per two exercises/styles of work) to get some good results
I feel like the two approaches aren’t as different as they sound. What Yves is describing is basically max hangs from a time under tension and absolute load perspective, he’s just adapted powerlifting protocols to the isometric loads we use climbing. A classic repeater protocol like 6 hangs of 7/3 would have to be at much lower loads than 5 reps from the ground. Lifting for reps is like 1/1 repeaters, which should use very different energy systems and provide a very different stimulus.
Caleb also provided a range of times he used for his max hangs e.g. 5-10 seconds, though I don’t remember exact details of how he programmed them. This is roughly the same sorts of total time under tension you would hit with the 1/1 low rep protocol and higher max hang times should provide a similar stimulus to higher rep lifts e.g. more hypertrophy and endurance, less max strength improvement. Caleb also has a background with strength training, so presumably he knows basic programming principles and how his body responds to loading.
Finally, they both really heavily emphasize the importance of tracking their training loads and incrementally progressing over very long periods of time, while running small experiments to see what works best for you. Caleb chose a consistent set of max hang protocols to center that tracking and progression, Yves chose floor lifts because it gave him a better accounting of his cumulative load to progress more precisely. They also both have found a lot of benefit from using no-hang devices for basic strength, micro edges for specificity to small holes, and some form of board climbing. Yves directly mentions rate of force development (contact strength) as a key thing to train, whereas Caleb only alluded to it in the discussion of his board climbing.
All of this together makes me feel like the underlying principles and practices they are both working with look very, very similar, even though their specific training approach is a bit different.
TL;DR: Pick something you like and stick with it. (Tracked progress for 5-20 years with plenty of food and sleep is ideal.)
Block lifting for reps is not equivalent to doing repeaters.
@@chasleichner5895 thanks for the insight! misunderstood what was going on with yves. tried some no hangs for 5-10 reps instead of max hangs + time the other day… kinda digging it.
Awesome thanks
1-6-10 is absurd!!!
He hit 1-7-11 at one point
@@EggPunch2003 I don't think I've ever seen a campus board that tall! Dude's an animal!!!
Me over here on V4
lol me too. I think I've got bigger problems than being able to lift 50kg+ on an 18mm edge for reps, but here I am nodding along like hmmm yes yes very relatable
Dude has forearms like Popeye!! His tips must work well lol
That's a meaty back for someone that doesn't lift. 👏
I suppose he lifts himself
did he really just do 1 7 11 ? 6:07
yes, absurd
What? You don't?
whats the board he uses at 1:08
Some sort of a "tension block"