Nice demonstration, but I think it's important to note, as mentioned in some other comments: - Blowtorch test is NOT definite, as failing switch might close at the higher temperature and cause engine overheating. - Boiling water is much more precise, and adding a cheap food thermometer can test more accurately for the open and close temperatures, which are sometimes printed on the switch itself.
Hey CarsNToys, I have a question for you. Maybe you can shed some light on the subject. I had a faulty Fan switch for my 98' Camry and decided to order one from the dealership and it arrived today. I installed it and my car reached 199F and it did NOT switch the fans on. I let the car fully warm up and burped out any air bubbles and drove around and my car went up to 217F when the switch finally activated! But that's too high, the temp needle is a bit above the middle marker. Is it possible to have a bad switch from the dealership? Or should I look at something else?
I would like to chip in something so others could learn as well. I have tested the same way as demonstration and it beeps as it should since my switch is working. However, my switch made that connection at 214 degree (sometime 217) which is a lot later than specs allowance and that is where all the trouble come from. The temperature gauge starts climb over half mark. So pay attention there as well. That was what I call half a$$ working switch and it must be replaced as well if you don't want your car overheating.
Thanks for the very informative video. My temp switch is self grounding so only one terminal. How do I use the multi meter for that? Thank you in advance!
I think that the radiator is it's ground which means that the body of the switch is the ground. In that case you should attach the negative(black) prong lead to the body of the switch and the red to the contact pin.
With a single pin temp switch, the body of the switch grounds to the engine, so one lead goes to the terminal on the switch, and the other lead goes anywhere on the engine with a path to ground.
Would a normal lighter work or does it have to be blowtorch? I can't use the boiling water because I live in a flat and by the time I get downstairs the water would cool down I think
Hi thanks for the help, I have a question about my situation. The switch I'm working with has no plug/harness, it was just directly wired in. These wires are cut so there are 4 loose wires, two from the switch and 2 from the vehicle. Does it matter which wire from the switch goes to which wire on the vehicle?
Thanks for this. What should I do if the fan still doesn't work with a brand new switch and fuse? It turns on when I fiddle with the switch but then it turns off again a few seconds later
Why would you do a jump cut between lighting the torch and when the meter indicates continuity, if it only takes a few seconds? All that does is make it more difficult for anyone trying to emulate the test method that you're demonstrating. I appreciate that you're trying to help people with this video. Otherwise generally good info.
right! i have a 2005 lexus 330es fan cooliong switch that i did this test but after heating it, it seem it does work. i dont know if it works or i just overheated it for like a whole minute and that somehow cause it to just click
195° Fahrenheit, 205° Fahrenheit, these temperatures are what the thermostats and temperature switches are designed to open(tstat), or close(switches) depending on manufacturer
do all cars have a radiator fan switch on the radiator? i found the radiator fan switch on my 2001 honda crv by the thermostat in the engine bay. but in this video you're saying the dan switch is in the radiator itsself? or is that the temp sensor? or maybe you have a different car.
There are 2 temperature sensors. 1 in radiator, manage fan on/off to keep coolant in temperature range. 2nd is on engine itself, it send you temperature readings on dashboard. Thermostat is just a valve that should be closed when engine is cool, so it can quickly get to optimal working temperature (cabin heater is using coolant too, so shorter loop helps getting heat too cabin faster) and opens up when engine gets hot so it have more volume of coolant available.
Yes you can, the fans will just kick in a lot lol I just received my 80° C switch and I wanted to do this test but idk how I feel about torching it I feel like that's too much lol
@@CarsNToys I tried testing my switch, in boiling water temperature it did not give continuity. With torch flaming it for 6-7 seconds it opened up and gave continuity. I put thermometer on the end and it shows 200 degrees from torch. Is there a lot of heat loss after you stop torching? why will it give continuity with torch but not boiling water. Is the switch bad? specs: its a BMW double temp sensor switch with 3 prongs. 91c degrees low speed 104c high speed.
thank you, took mine out and bench tested it with no heat and still got continuity, layed it on ice and still got continuity?? so I did replace it and fans working, have no clue why I was getting continuity
Why do you have to remove the switch in order to do this? Couldn’t you just check for continuity with the engine running and see if you get it once the car is hot?
Probably because he already knew it was bad so he was going to change it anyways. Another option would have been to bridge the pins inside the connector and sew if the fan switches on before removing the sensor
Also I think the water pump has a big saw in this cuz it needs to be operational to shoot the coolant throughout the engine so the switch picks up the hot coolant to kick on the fans
I changed the sensor switch on top of the thermostat and the 2 sensors below the distributor and my cooling fan doesnt come on when u turn on the ac and it's supposed to but never does. I checked my relays and fuses and they're fine. I thought maybe my fan needs to be replaced but I ran alligator clips from the cooling fan directly to the battery and the cooling fan came on with no problem. So my question is why isnt my cooling fan turning on when I turn on the ac???? The fan on the driver side comes on without any problems.
@@percillasamora5358 the issue for me was my radiator was shot. It had like 7 holes in it so I replaced the radiator along with the fan and haven't had any issues at all since I changed my radiator
I installed new radiator, fan system with built in resistor and thermostat unit on 2012 fiat 500. Fan does not come on at all. Ran wire from battery to fan to check and it kicked on, pulled high and low relays and they clicked, fuses good. Temperature rises to halfway mark and still nothing. I shut down so does not over heat. Ran engine with cap off in case of air lock. Totally baffled
omg !! can someone help!!! I noticed the other day that my car was smelling hot started to run a lil hard so i noticed I wasn't hearing the fan kick on . last thing I want to do is blow the engine so I tested the fans and they work i replaced the thermo switch the thermostat the relay and fuse checked all wiring for burns and cuts didn't see anything I even flushed the radiator and refilled it. and my fan still wont kick on by its self. i have to keep my ac on to keep it cool . the car doesn't over heat well at least the instrument panel gauge reads normal but like i said I can smell when its getting hot. any ideas what I'm missing thanks in advance
I'm in the exact same situation as you. Car started running a little hot but only at slow speeds. Checked the fuse, it was good. Swapped the relays and both work. Checked the wiring and nothing out of the ordinary. It's not a thermostat issue because that would effect you on the highway as well and my car runs fine if not idling or in stop and go traffic. I used a power probe on the fan motor and the fan motor works just fine. I also found out as well that if the AC is on near max then both fans will kick on and keep the car from overheating. I replaced the fan switch with an import direct from O'Reillys and it still wouldn't work. Took the car to the auto shop in town that I trust and they told me the fan switch that I replaced was faulty and didn't work. I replaced it under warranty with another one from O'Reillys and it didn't work. I took it out and used a blow torch on it and my multimeter told me I have continuity so I'm going to check the connector to the fan switch in the thermostat housing and then reinstall the one I have and see if it works by some miracle of the heat from the blowtorch made it work. Please let me know what you find out. My vehicle is a 1993 Honda Accord
I ran a paper clip in the positive and negative part of the connector that plugs into the fan switch in the thermostat housing and my fans turned meaning that it has to be my fan switch (AGAIN!) so I will be returning this one and getting one from a junkyard. I will see what happens. It sounds like Hondas are really picky as far as fan switches go so try going for OEM or Denso if you check your fan switch again and find it's bad. Hope this helps, I will let you know what my results are tomorrow
Bought one of these for my honda 98 accord didnt turn my fans on; apparently i wacthed a vid and some guy in the comment section said the fan swicth must be honda brand; not this generic one.
I have a brand new switch, but it turns on fan for a maybe 15 seconds and then goes off. I have bridged pins in plug and the fan is working properly. Should I try a new sensor ? Things like thermostat, water pump, auxiary water pump seems to work fine ... Don't see other option🤔
Nice demonstration, but I think it's important to note, as mentioned in some other comments:
- Blowtorch test is NOT definite, as failing switch might close at the higher temperature and cause engine overheating.
- Boiling water is much more precise, and adding a cheap food thermometer can test more accurately for the open and close temperatures, which are sometimes printed on the switch itself.
Hey CarsNToys, I have a question for you. Maybe you can shed some light on the subject. I had a faulty Fan switch for my 98' Camry and decided to order one from the dealership and it arrived today. I installed it and my car reached 199F and it did NOT switch the fans on. I let the car fully warm up and burped out any air bubbles and drove around and my car went up to 217F when the switch finally activated! But that's too high, the temp needle is a bit above the middle marker. Is it possible to have a bad switch from the dealership? Or should I look at something else?
Why did you replace that switch ?what was the symtoms you had?
I would like to chip in something so others could learn as well. I have tested the same way as demonstration and it beeps as it should since my switch is working. However, my switch made that connection at 214 degree (sometime 217) which is a lot later than specs allowance and that is where all the trouble come from. The temperature gauge starts climb over half mark. So pay attention there as well. That was what I call half a$$ working switch and it must be replaced as well if you don't want your car overheating.
Very concise and simple to understand explanation,thank you
Glad it was helpful!
MAN!! I LOVE THE WAY YOU EXPLAIN IT. IT IS SO CLEAR AND SIMPLE. THANK YOU. I HAVE 2004 HONDA PILOT AND BOTH FANS ARE NOT WORKING NOW.
You explain very patiently and in a clear manner. Please post more videos about Ford Fiesta.thank you very much.
Excellent video, thanks for sharing. When you say, set your meter to the continuity setting, What symbol exactly on your dial do you switch it to?
Thanks for the very informative video. My temp switch is self grounding so only one terminal. How do I use the multi meter for that? Thank you in advance!
I think that the radiator is it's ground which means that the body of the switch is the ground. In that case you should attach the negative(black) prong lead to the body of the switch and the red to the contact pin.
With a single pin temp switch, the body of the switch grounds to the engine, so one lead goes to the terminal on the switch, and the other lead goes anywhere on the engine with a path to ground.
You can also take a short piece of wire and touch both connections on the plug and if the fan comes on you know your switch is bad
Thanks for the video, I want to know if this this test is ok for 2014 Dodge Journey coolant temperature sensor
Would a normal lighter work or does it have to be blowtorch? I can't use the boiling water because I live in a flat and by the time I get downstairs the water would cool down I think
Hi thanks for the help, I have a question about my situation.
The switch I'm working with has no plug/harness, it was just directly wired in. These wires are cut so there are 4 loose wires, two from the switch and 2 from the vehicle. Does it matter which wire from the switch goes to which wire on the vehicle?
Thank you but at what degrees should you have continuity.
Much appreciated for your video tutorials 🙏
Sounds like a snap disc switch. Used in hvac systems decades ago for limit and fan controls
Fantastic video boss, Gain hands on experience
Thanks for this. What should I do if the fan still doesn't work with a brand new switch and fuse? It turns on when I fiddle with the switch but then it turns off again a few seconds later
It’s very awesome video. Thank you for uploading this video. I can go test my radiator coolant fan switch. To see it . Is it working properly?
F22 In a CB7 the switch is located on the top radiator hose to the block I believe
if the temperature gauge works can you say sensor is good?
Nope, they are two different sensors. The temp sender is found on the engine block (I think), and the fan switch is found on the rad.
@@Seagrams thx for reply for chevy caviler its different it works on cts and computer 💻
how do you test the temperature meter in the dashboard
Hi just watching your video i have continuity without doing any heat or cool test is that good or is the sencer bad
Probably stuck in the On position.
Why would you do a jump cut between lighting the torch and when the meter indicates continuity, if it only takes a few seconds? All that does is make it more difficult for anyone trying to emulate the test method that you're demonstrating.
I appreciate that you're trying to help people with this video. Otherwise generally good info.
right! i have a 2005 lexus 330es fan cooliong switch that i did this test but after heating it, it seem it does work. i dont know if it works or i just overheated it for like a whole minute and that somehow cause it to just click
I tested one for my Toyota Camry and it has continuity all the time even when it’s cold 🥶 any suggestions?
Great video, thanks a lot. Helped me fix my Honda Civic.
Perfect if you can show with temperature, Switching on temperature is important.
Can you explain 195f, 205f what is the difference in the number
195° Fahrenheit, 205° Fahrenheit, these temperatures are what the thermostats and temperature switches are designed to open(tstat), or close(switches) depending on manufacturer
do all cars have a radiator fan switch on the radiator? i found the radiator fan switch on my 2001 honda crv by the thermostat in the engine bay. but in this video you're saying the dan switch is in the radiator itsself? or is that the temp sensor? or maybe you have a different car.
There are 2 temperature sensors. 1 in radiator, manage fan on/off to keep coolant in temperature range. 2nd is on engine itself, it send you temperature readings on dashboard. Thermostat is just a valve that should be closed when engine is cool, so it can quickly get to optimal working temperature (cabin heater is using coolant too, so shorter loop helps getting heat too cabin faster) and opens up when engine gets hot so it have more volume of coolant available.
Whats the size of your vise?
Very good. Makes me want to get back into the rat race again
3 pin test multimeter ?
❤very detailed 👌
can we install a lower temp thérmo switch say around 75⁰C turning on temp?
Yes you can, the fans will just kick in a lot lol I just received my 80° C switch and I wanted to do this test but idk how I feel about torching it I feel like that's too much lol
Possible, but not good idea as it might not reach operating temperature, and run too cold, which is also not good for the engine.
@@zdrz7727it wont run cold cause we have the engines thermostat thats in the block responds for opening after reaching working temp
Hi
Did you find a solution???
How long do these last cause I believe my issues was this but I’ve been at it for weeks so far it’s good after replacing but I’m fingers crossed
Thanks a lot for your video, like always very well explained.
My pleasure!
@@CarsNToys
I tried testing my switch, in boiling water temperature it did not give continuity. With torch flaming it for 6-7 seconds it opened up and gave continuity. I put thermometer on the end and it shows 200 degrees from torch. Is there a lot of heat loss after you stop torching? why will it give continuity with torch but not boiling water. Is the switch bad?
specs: its a BMW double temp sensor switch with 3 prongs. 91c degrees low speed 104c high speed.
Perfectly explained. Thanks!
thank you, took mine out and bench tested it with no heat and still got continuity, layed it on ice and still got continuity?? so I did replace it and fans working, have no clue why I was getting continuity
I have a 2007 mustang,Ik it has a temp sensor but can’t find the switch
Why do you have to remove the switch in order to do this? Couldn’t you just check for continuity with the engine running and see if you get it once the car is hot?
Probably because he already knew it was bad so he was going to change it anyways. Another option would have been to bridge the pins inside the connector and sew if the fan switches on before removing the sensor
Also I think the water pump has a big saw in this cuz it needs to be operational to shoot the coolant throughout the engine so the switch picks up the hot coolant to kick on the fans
Please what is the part number ?
V Good explaination, I like the idea of the test.
Great way to explaining.
Awesome video.
Congrats!
a trick: you can watch movies at Flixzone. I've been using them for watching a lot of movies recently.
@Roger Forest Definitely, have been using flixzone for since november myself :)
I bought a brand new switch and I'm blow torching it and I don't hear the switch making any noise or any numbers changing
I have new radiator fan is not working what is the reason please?
What does the Radiator Cooling Fan Switch besides just maybe turn on the radiator fans
That's it! Just fan on and off
But you also have a relay doing the real switching.
Great video
I changed the sensor switch on top of the thermostat and the 2 sensors below the distributor and my cooling fan doesnt come on when u turn on the ac and it's supposed to but never does. I checked my relays and fuses and they're fine. I thought maybe my fan needs to be replaced but I ran alligator clips from the cooling fan directly to the battery and the cooling fan came on with no problem. So my question is why isnt my cooling fan turning on when I turn on the ac???? The fan on the driver side comes on without any problems.
Put AC on high
@@percillasamora5358 the issue for me was my radiator was shot. It had like 7 holes in it so I replaced the radiator along with the fan and haven't had any issues at all since I changed my radiator
Great tip bro
Thanku sir very good explain
I installed new radiator, fan system with built in resistor and thermostat unit on 2012 fiat 500. Fan does not come on at all. Ran wire from battery to fan to check and it kicked on, pulled high and low relays and they clicked, fuses good. Temperature rises to halfway mark and still nothing. I shut down so does not over heat. Ran engine with cap off in case of air lock. Totally baffled
Hello 👋...good like very tanks...🙏🙏🙏🙏👌👌👌
Thanks
omg !! can someone help!!! I noticed the other day that my car was smelling hot started to run a lil hard so i noticed I wasn't hearing the fan kick on . last thing I want to do is blow the engine so I tested the fans and they work i replaced the thermo switch the thermostat the relay and fuse checked all wiring for burns and cuts didn't see anything I even flushed the radiator and refilled it. and my fan still wont kick on by its self. i have to keep my ac on to keep it cool . the car doesn't over heat well at least the instrument panel gauge reads normal but like i said I can smell when its getting hot. any ideas what I'm missing thanks in advance
I'm in the exact same situation as you. Car started running a little hot but only at slow speeds. Checked the fuse, it was good. Swapped the relays and both work. Checked the wiring and nothing out of the ordinary. It's not a thermostat issue because that would effect you on the highway as well and my car runs fine if not idling or in stop and go traffic. I used a power probe on the fan motor and the fan motor works just fine. I also found out as well that if the AC is on near max then both fans will kick on and keep the car from overheating. I replaced the fan switch with an import direct from O'Reillys and it still wouldn't work. Took the car to the auto shop in town that I trust and they told me the fan switch that I replaced was faulty and didn't work. I replaced it under warranty with another one from O'Reillys and it didn't work. I took it out and used a blow torch on it and my multimeter told me I have continuity so I'm going to check the connector to the fan switch in the thermostat housing and then reinstall the one I have and see if it works by some miracle of the heat from the blowtorch made it work. Please let me know what you find out. My vehicle is a 1993 Honda Accord
I ran a paper clip in the positive and negative part of the connector that plugs into the fan switch in the thermostat housing and my fans turned meaning that it has to be my fan switch (AGAIN!) so I will be returning this one and getting one from a junkyard. I will see what happens. It sounds like Hondas are really picky as far as fan switches go so try going for OEM or Denso if you check your fan switch again and find it's bad. Hope this helps, I will let you know what my results are tomorrow
U need me in your life swithart so u won't have 2 weary about stuff like that
Why do u have to drain the coolant..that stuff is expensive
Is there one of these in my 1991 Murcury Capri?
Yes
Very clear...
Bought one of these for my honda 98 accord didnt turn my fans on; apparently i wacthed a vid and some guy in the comment section said the fan swicth must be honda brand; not this generic one.
Mine won't come off, it rotates on it's own
Tried with a ratchet and a 24mm deep socket and nothing
what if it always has continuity when it is cold
I have same problem.. Do you have an answer already?
Means it's likely stuck in the On position. Your rad fan should be running constantly if that's the case.
Bravo
Nice
I have a brand new switch, but it turns on fan for a maybe 15 seconds and then goes off.
I have bridged pins in plug and the fan is working properly.
Should I try a new sensor ?
Things like thermostat, water pump, auxiary water pump seems to work fine ...
Don't see other option🤔
SHORT & SIMPLE. QUESTION, THE AUX .FAN SWITCH ON AN 85 CORVETTE HAS A SINGLE WIRE. HOW DO I TEST IT? HELP.
The other connection is probably the metal casing of the switch, as the body of the car is usually connected to DC negative.