[OHT] 2010 Accord 4-cylinder [K-series] timing chain & VTC actuator replacement
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- Опубліковано 12 жов 2024
- [AUDIO QUALITY ALERT! Rookie editor in training! ;-D]
Welcome back!
This time, we replace the stretched timing chain, and the VTC cam actuator, on a 2010 Honda Accord Coupe with a 2.4 litre engine.
The car, which belongs to a student of mine, presented with a rather noisesome ratcheting sound at cold start-up and a check engine light with DTC P0341 (Camshaft position sensor A out of phase) codestored in the PCM.
After running through the diagnosis in class, she asked if I would perform the repair because she didn't have confidence in her regular mechanic to perform engine work.
And so, here we are!
Pull up a seat and stay awhile!
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Addendum (by popular demand!)
OEMACURAPARTS.COM (Not a sponsor)
Parts used in this video are listed in the link below:
app.box.com/s/...
Cheers!
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I've written the step by step process you provided in your video. thanks so much for making this, I hope others also find the below useful. if you have time please review and let me know if I missed anything..
1. Remove plastic cover on intake manifold
2. Clean behind plastic cover as their can be a lot of dirt back there you don’t want to get into the engine. Use degreaser / break clearner.
3. remove structure to frame to engine
4. Remove nut on right side of valve cover
5. Remove hose clipand hose on right side of valve cover
6. remove power steering pump (14mm on tensioner / idle pulley and remove serptine belt), remove the 14mm bolts for the power steering pump off (move it out of the way
7. Jack up car and remove wheel where crank pulley it located (left side of car)
8. remove valve cover (before lifting it off grab the grommet if you can as they like to fall off the valve cover),
9. remove valve cover gasket if still on
10. set engine to TDC (rotation clockwise only, wrench on camshaft towards you). There are two sets of a pair of marks on the crankshaft pulley.
11. remove vtc solenoid (two bolts) (side of timing chain cover). Try not to pry the solenoid as it might break.
12. Remove crank pulley. Make sure the grove key is in the crank pulley ( DON’T LOOSE IT)
13. remove bolts for timing chain cover. One of the botls is super long and needs to stay in the cover and come out with it. It needs to be like this when putting the cover backin as well. Use a swivel socket on the one of the bolts at the very bottom, don’t break the clip holding the line at the bottom
14. Remove the old honda bond off the timing chain cover
15. Remove the small black tensioner chain cover and clean it, put honda bond closer to the inner portion on it and reinstall it onto timing cover
16. Replace O-Ring on timing chain cover. If its not there it must have fell when removing the timing cover , find it.
17. Replace crank seal on timing cover
18. Use 17mm with breaker bar and 15/16 wrench (or monkey wrench) on crankshaft to loosen the vtc actuator bolt. THIS HAS TO BE DONE BEFORE REMOVING THE TIMING CHAIN.
19. Ensure TDC is still set
20. Remove top timing chain guide (the one above the intake and exhaust sprockets)
21. Remove timing chain tensioner
22. Remove the crank pulley spacer
23. Remove the timing chain (should be possible even with the right and left timing chain guides still on
24. Once you remove the timing chain, check that the crank pulley sprocket dot is in line with the link.
25. Clean the honda bond from the engine where the timing chain cover and engine meet
26. Place the new tensioner on with one bolt in and let it hang there
27. Remove VTC Actuator, make sure new one is unlocked. Move it around using minimal force and the camshaft pin shoul be at the top of the new vtc keyhole once its in the place. Tighten VTC bolt with 83 ft/lb.
28. Put the new timing chain on. (two gold links align with the intake and exhaust sprocket dots), one gold link is placed overtop of crank sprocket). With it in place put the other bolt into the tensioner and it will at least hold the timing chain in place for the mean time for you to recheck everything.
29. Ensure TDC and everything is correct
30. Pull Tensioner pin, manually spin engine clockwise to ensure everything is cycling OK.
31. Honda Bond timing chain cover
32. Place Timing cover back on . Two weird looking bolts go on bottom left and bottom right of timing chain cover.
33. Install vtc solenoid, bolt in.
34. Remove any honda bond on valve cover areas. Put new honda bond in the corners where the valve cover meeting with engine. Put new valve gasket on. Put valve cover back on. Tight down with grommet, seals, bolts.
35. Put Power steering pump back on and serpentine belt back on
36. Put back nut on right side of valve cover
37. Put back hose clip and hose on right side of valve cover
38. Put Crank pulley back on crank shaft. , it should spin freely. Line up the crankshaft divits and put the key in to lock the pulley with the shaft. Put crank pulley bolt in and tighten.
39. Let Honda Bond dry before turning on car.
40. Put Tire on and start engine
I don't know how to even begin to give you props!!!!!🤯🤯🤯
I read it all the way through and even I don't remember how many of those little tips I may have given that are accurately listed!!!
You are amazing!!!
Sooooo helpful this is!!!
Thank you!
I don't understand why TDC has to line up. Where do I look to understand TDC?
My 4cyl 2008 rattles at startup. Can I just clean the vtv filter without having to do all this?
Your notes are good.
@@benten6301 the problem is the vtc actuator, it has to be replaced. setting tdc is part of the process of replacing the actuator
I have a question, I'm not able to get the vtc and cam shaft to TDC, they won't line up. What can I do!?!?!? I desperately trying to fix my car, I'm broke and I'm a single mom and there is no way I can take it to a garage.
I for one thank you for making this video. Despite you seeming a bit stressed, fighting allergies, and a dying cell phone battery along with shooting it by yourself, its still the best video out there for this Accord model.
UPDATE:
So I have now finished the job on my nearly 200,000 mile 2009 Accord. Tried one of the quick fix videos to replace VTC Actuator and jumped a tooth or two and had to take this whole bad boy apart because there is literally no way to fix the chain at the crank because of the Timing Chain Cover. Soo......
Replaced:
VTC Actuator (Grinding noise maker)
Timing Chain (which was stretched)
All 3 Chain Guides which actually still looked good.
VTC Oil Control Solenoid
Valve Cover Gasket
Spark Plug Seals
Valve Cover Grommets
Chain Tensioner
O-Ring for Chain Case on Timing Cover (91302-PNA-004)
Hondabond for Timing Chain Cover (waited 3 days after applying)
Oil Change after first ride to verify no leaks or issues.
This was a pretty rough job to be honest. Felt like I bit off more than I could chew but this video was basically my main walk through video and just a couple others for specific questions I had. But engine now starts grinding free, sounds quieter than it did before and I'm hoping the Solenoid among others will help the oil burn I was having as well.
TIPS:
Buy the Lisle Harmonic Balancer socket for the crankbolt. I've never had an easier time getting a bolt off. I soaked it for a day or so in PB Blaster and it spun right off with my 1/2' Dewalt.
DO use the little soft bristled brush attachment for Dremel or similar tool to clean old gasket off of timing cover and engine. Yes, there will be a few bits of metal that fly off but I'm telling you, your not going to clean that thing up by hand unless you spend a week on it and shops obviously use these all the time without issue.
Get a 2nd person to help with Timing Cover placement so you prevent smearing everywhere and possible future leaks.
Be patient on those 3 bolts for Timing Cover at the Oil Pan. Brutal lol. Did them by hand, turn at a time as I didn't have an attachment to go from beneath splash shield. It can be done :)
Have an extending magnet tool. You WILL drop bolts in the craziest places and fishing them out with a magnet is life saving!
Don't skimp on parts. Buy the best you can afford. You don't want to do this job twice.
Enjoy
😁😁😁😁😁
Thanks!!!
You're very welcome!
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Which other videos did you watch. I'm about to do this by myself and I need all the help I can get. Thanks
@@LA-wldflr like I said, this was my main video. As with any project, you’re sure to run into something that isnt covered in detail and have to search elsewhere for it. I cant remember off the top of my head what other specific videos I watched though so sorry, its been over 8 months. Just take your time.
The amount of work required to do this job is insane. I'm upset with Honda for manufacturing cars with this well known defect. I had the issue repaired once while the car was under warranty but now so many years later after the warranty expired they're not going to cover the repairs again. Pure BS! Great job to you for showing us how to do this for any brave souls willing to take on this job.
As with all advancements in technology, there are birthpains and hurdles and while I do not dispute the complexity of this system, it offers the provision for power and efficiency that earlier tech couldn't achieve.
My gripe, as I'm sure is yours, is that having solved reliability issues with the foundational components of these engines, design flaws seem to mar the promise that these tech advancements have to offer.
All that to say, thanks for your feedback and...
...Thanks for watching!😎👍
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@@EKHondaMotive . I agree 100%. Very well stated! That said, I do a lot of my own car repairs and I'm sure I'll be watching more of your videos. Thank you for the great content!
Thank you for this video. I’ll be working on this maintenance on my ‘08. I like to know what I’m getting into and this video do exactly what I needed. I read all the comments, which answered my curiosity, and researched other videos. I like your video and will reference as I work through the project. Your video helped me decide on DIY. Thanks!
One suggestion. As a rule it is better to place RTV sealant on a stationary surface that the attaching component. I this case working in the blind and the likelihood of smearing off even a small portion of sealant from the timing cover could result in an oil leak and a redo! Good video though, even with the miss-step with the intake cam sprocket! That job was a bear to do and I for one could not have done as well with the distractions of trying to offer instructions and video and concentrate on the enormous task at had! Well done sir!
Thanks for such a detailed example of how to do this! The audio alert you give is a small price to pay for a first hand look over your shoulder as you do this. Good to see some of the mistakes that can arise too. Can't imagine what a hassle it is to film it while doing this job. Appreciate it very much.
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
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Thanks for the video. I was doing a VTT actuator replacement (without a timing chain replacement) and the chain fell and I lost the engine timing. Now I have to remove the timing chain cover and re-time the engine.😖
I was ready to take a long walk off a short pier, but your video helped me avoid a complete mental breakdown.
I'll let you know how it works out and if I turn my Mom's car into a brick. 😬
@@thomassouliere7613 Gimme a call...
...we can do this!
Google my U/name
That's funny, I was in exactly the same boat as you just last Sunday. I wanted to throw stuff around the garage. I just took a deep breath and just plugged away and took the cover off to reset the chain where it should be. Hopefully you were able to get it done like I could.
I give you a 10 for the hard work I’m having clatter noise when I start my 2008 Honda Accord 2.4l I believe it’s the acutrator after doing research. I’m just gonna change all the same shit you did to be safe. Thanks bud ur a lifesaver I was looking at paying 550$ in labor to have this done but I have the tools and time to do it. Awesome video
Did you finish the job? And did it stop the rasping click on cold starts?
This is booked for about 5.5 hours.
Thats a lot cheaper then the 2600 dollars I just got quoted for an Acura TSX
Thank you for the detailed step by step video, this helped a lot. It took me a few hours to get it done, cleaning the old gasket maker took up most of the time. I compared my old chain to the new one and it was stretched, looked almost like it had an extra link. I took my engine out of the car just to make it easier on myself and I had to change my clutch anyway.
Wow!
Sounds like a loooong weekend!😉
I'm glad it helped!
Cheers!🍻
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Thank you, thank you, thank you.. I currently doing the same job on me 2003 accord. I got the head off.. a now what!?. Now I got a good Idea of the work involved. And will be ordering that VTI actuator as well. Keep up the good work.
That 14mm on the side cover you said couldn’t come out, I fit my socket wrench in there a little tight and fight but the way I did it was loosen it and then get the socket out and then turn it out by hand
Thanks for such a detailed video, I have watched it several times in preparation for doing the procedure on my honda and I want to do the procedure on the cheap by replacing only the chain and tensioner with genuine Honda, I have a couple of questions:
1) Under what situation do I need to change the VVT actuator what about guides ?
2) I want to buy a cheap air impact gun (300lb Ft) to remove the crankshaft pulley, is 300 lb Ft enough to loosen the 19 mm nut ?
3) If I engage the manual transmission in first gear and pull the e-brake can I loosen the 19mm crankshaft nut with a 19 mm socket and a huge breaker bar ?
Thanks for the compliments and I'm glad you found it helpful!
As to your first question, if the engine has a loud grinding/rattling sound at cold startup, then the VTC phasor should be replaced.
A visual inspection of the guides is necessary but I'm guessing that you could possibly get by without replacing them.
As for the the gun, I'm not sure that 300 ft.lbs will be enough.
Is there anyway you could swing by a shop and slide them a few bucks to try a more powerful gun?
The trick with locking the trans could work but a better bet would be to try and lock the flywheel to the bell housing with a pry bar wedged in between the starter teeth.
You can reach me at thegqtech@gmail.com if you have any further questions.
Cheers!
It's CRAZY that I am even still contemplating buying this 09 Accord with the 2.4 engine (102k miles) for $7,900.00 before financing because, The second he started it, It started tapping from the top end just momentarily & then went away almost as fast as it happened! THE TAPPING NOISE LASTED MAYBE 2-3 SECONDS MAYBE AT THE MOST=5 SECONDS BUT, AS SOON AS IT STARTED, IT STOPPED(it seemed like it only lasted 1 or 2 seconds) & the car ran fine from then on! It ran like a brand new car at least it seamed to have, to me! The only thing I noticed was, from a dead stop, when I would floor it, it did not have much power for the 1st second or two & then it would build power& had good power after a second or two, idk if that is the way it is supposed to be or if its part of the traction control but, there would be no peeling out! The oil looked really old & black & a smidge low but at 1st glance, I just assumed it needed an oil change! Now, after the weather warms up, I could do the timing chain upon studying & watching many video's but, I have never dealt with variable cam timing-(vct)& do not know much about it! I did a timing belt on my 1st gen zetec focus about 2 years ago & all went well but, IT DOES NOT HAVE VCT! DO YOU THINK IT IS WORTH BUYING? 102K MILES, APPEARS & DRIVES LIKE NEW! I did hear a very slight wa wa wa of maybe a busted belt or, a bad wheel bearing in the front passenger wheel but, I am well versed in doing press in style wheel bearings- (If its the bearing & not the tire) SEEMS TO ME THAT FACTOTY BEARINGS ARE GREASE FILLED & AFTERMARKET BEARINGS ARE OIL FILLED & AFTER CHANGING THEM, YOU THEN HAVE TO CHANGE THEM VERY OFTEN THERAFTER! I have never coughed up the money & bought a factory wheel bearing, I have only bought them from the aftermarket & have not had good luck with them so, I wonder if I should spnd the ridiculous price & get a factory replacement wheel bearing-maybe it's properly filled with grease instead of oil & maybe it would last another 10-15 years unlike months from an aftermarket brand? Anyways, 09 Accord 2.4 w/102k miles=$7,900.00 before any financing with a momentary tapping upon a cold start. each start thereafter it did not make the tapping noise!!!
If you haven't committed to that Accord, I'd hold out for a better example.
The racket at cold start is from a failing VTC actuator. It stops making noise once it's pumped up with oil pressure.
Aside from the apparent lackluster maintenance history, and issues with the VTC system, they're also known for having oil consumption issues.
At that price point, I'd look for one that has had the pistons and rings replaced (under the warranty extension).
All the best!
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4:58 Did i see a rum and coke sitting on the radiator? lol
Thanks for the detailed video! Appreciate the time and trouble you went to! My daughter has a 2014 CR-V we bought in Dec 2018 with around 55k miles. Feb 2019 got camshaft position sensor code. Started running bad and in July 2019 at 61000 got chain, tensioner and vvt actuator replaced, actuator part #14310-R5A-305. Car has used oil a lot of oil since purchase. Current mileage is 97200. Rattle upon cold start is back so the actuator is bad again. No cam codes yet.
Been running myself crazy trying to figure this thing out on the internet and I’m hoping you have time to read this and answer some questions. I feel like you will give some no BS answers!
1. Excessive oil consumption - PCV valve is good - I checked and cleaned yesterday. It was replaced and was still clean. I assume rings are needed - would a top end rebuild fix this? Any chance Honda would help?
2. Is there an updated actuator part number that fixes rattle for good? Does the rattle hurt anything if the oil consumption is corrected?
3. Is this engine just a POS that will not last the 200k that I expect?
Thanks again for taking the time to read this!
Thanks for the compliments!😁
For starters, the piston rings are known to stick causing increased oil consumption.
As a consequence, the motor invariably runs low on oil between oil changes. Coupled with an already problematic cam phasor, the rattling is the end result of a comedy of errors.
Depending on how attached you are to the truck, replacing the piston rings is the curative course of action.
I would however be remiss if I failed to advise you not be shocked to have to re-ring the engine in another 100k (I've had to put a 2nd set in an Accord at a little over 200k miles!)😑
The job is quite involved but if you've already tackled the chain job, it's in your wheelhouse.
As for an updated part number, I haven't one of the top of my head but asking if there is one from your parts guy can't hurt.
That said, I hope this help.
Good luck and don't hesitate to reach out @thegqtech on IG or thegqtech@gmail.com.
Cheers!🍻
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I know this comment is a year old but for anyone wondering the updated part number for the actuator is 14310-R5A-305. It has blue bolts on the side which is how you can differentiate it from the old part. It should fix the rattle. If you install the old part it is basically guaranteed that the rattle will come back if you had a rattle previously (or so I've heard).
It's also a good idea to turn the engine by hand 720 degrees to double check for valve interference....Al Scott
Your vids a perfect 10, I have the same job to do on my k20A Honda stream, more confident of doing it next few weeks.
Comments like yours are why I'm encouraged to make more videos.
Thanks!
And here's hoping you come out on top but should you run into probs, hit me up here...
...we'll figure it out.
Cheers!
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Thanks, the job went well and engine runs great.
Great job, way to stay with it...
Next video although this was greatly appreciated for what I needed help with FOR THE LOVE OF VIEWERS EARS LEAVE THE GLOVES OFF
Message received.
I think that long 14 mm bolt won’t come out on the cry because the engine bay is tighter on the side
I use a 20 volt dewalt xr half inch impact and a lisle weighted socket 19 mm that I use for all Honda crank pulleys and it rips them off with ease. It’s actually stronger than most air impacts. I don’t even pull my Mac impact out of my toolbox.
Literally just purchased that exact socket and have that impact so I'm really hoping it comes off with ease.
Thank you for this! Wish you had changed the oil pump chain as well. Can’t find any good videos of the z3 balance shaft timing
Glad it helped.
Because the oil pump and balance shafts don't offer as much resistance as the camshafts (from the springs), that chain typically doesn't suffer wear like the main chain.
The only time I've had to take that off is when I'm taking pistons out.
I believe I have a video of that process.
If I can find it I'll upload it.
Cheers!
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4:58 or a long island iced tea
The three bolts at the bottom of the cover that are hard to access were stripped by someone else at some point in time. Any help would be a life saver
???
I have a 2010 and I got a p0008 code engine position system bank 1. Would that mean I gotta replace my timing chain and tensioner or just a camshaft sensor.
When setting timing for tdc with the chain off do you have to find TDC after exhuast stroke.or since I'm putting a new chain on if i align all my marks I'm good.so what I'm asking is does it matter or as long as I'm TDC is that setting the timing for the first stroke cycle.
Hello!
Top dead center for cylinder number one is the only marking on the crank that lines up with the index (arrow head) on the block and is always the same piston position in the block.
The orientation of the valves is what determines what stroke the engine is on.
For TDC #1, that's exhaust and intake valves closed. This will have the line marks on both cams pointing to each other.
With a new chain, this should correspond to the colored links lining up with dots on the crank & camshaft sprockets.
I hope this helps.
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@@EKHondaMotive thanks for the fast response
Hey brother nice video! Great help! Any idea what the guy did to get that pin out if it gets pressed in? I've tried everything but still cannot get that sprocket pin back out of the cam.
Thanks!
Thanks for the compliments! I'm glad it has been useful to you.
Unfortunately, if I recall correctly, the camshafts were replaced on the ones that I've seen that happen to.
Wish I had a trick to share but I don't.
Good luck man and please let me know if you figure something out.
Cheers!
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So right around 55:00 after you put the chain on, if your chain has jumped a tooth, how do you rotate the sprockets to get them all alligned? Or do you simply just put the chain on in the correct spots (with the gold links and arrows) in whatever orientation the sprockets are already in?
That's correct!
As long as the colored links are on the correct indices of the sprockets, the timing will be right.
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Great video man except for the air compressor
Yeah, she's always keen to be heard! 😉
My apologies!
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Grasias amigo🎉
If you timing chain is going bad are there symptoms like engine light flashing? & lost of power? Car doesn’t go over 20 mph
Those symptoms can be present but the most likely cause of your described situation is a misfire (P03xx family of DTC's).
Start simple, then panic!😄
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Thank you for posting this video!
You're most definitely welcome!
😀😀😀
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@@EKHondaMotive I was fighting to figure out why I couldn't get it to fire, after watching your video I realized I was on the wrong timing marks. After I fixed my f#*k up it's started right up, other than the oil service light coming on at the same time I started it there was no more issues. Oil changed and everything is working perfectly again.
great video, quick question! what if the crankshaft is aligned TDC but the camshafts markings are misaligned by 3 gears on a k24? Would it be okay to set cylinder 1 to TDC via crank pulley markings, remove timing chain, realign camshafts and then reinstall timing chain?
🥶
I'd have to try and keep my fingers crossed.
With the exception of the ol' skool Passport, Honda engines are interference engines...
...3 teeth off might be the magic number.
I'd have to line it back up and see if it runs ok.
Good luck and keep me posted.
Make a video!!!👀👀👀
-FAA
@@EKHondaMotive Thanks for the reply! I heard from a honda tech two nights ago over a beer that 5 is the magic number for that engine.. 😵 It’s strange that the cam gears are aligned to each other but misaligned to the crank by 3 or so gears..
Will check with a borescope tomorrow and see if I can see any damage down the spark plug tube. Also taking videos as I go 😎
@@EKHondaMotive It worked btw! timing was 3 gear teeth off and no interference! engine runs super smooth - thanks again!
I have a 2010 Honda Accord where can I get the parts from to replace the timing chain??
Hii Kadrina!
In the description box below I've put a link to the parts list for what's commonly needed.
I have typically sourced them from local Honda dealers but oemacuraparts.com seems to have competitive pricing.
Let me know how things go.
Cheers!
Thank you so much
I must have missed it. Why was the intake cam sprocket (front) replaced? Can you list the parts that should be replaced while it's opened up? Thank you for the video!
The front cam sprocket/cam phasor has a known characteristic rattle on start-up when it fails. This Accord demonstrated that rattle in addition to having the P0341.
As far as the parts I recommend whilst in there, I'm gonna append the list to the description.
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Cheers!
@@EKHondaMotive what did you use to lift the engine? I saw you removed the motor mount a jack from the bottom?
@@M.A.S.-SuperiorService- Sorry I'm just seeing this!😕
Yes, I used a regular floor jack with a piece of 2"x4" to protect the oil pan.
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@@EKHondaMotive thank you sir I actually did it with a piece of cardboard folded many times over. I charged the guy 800 bucks but since I put a new head I also had to adjust the valve clearance with a feeler gauge, the video is up on my channel but I appreciate your response nonetheless.
Hey, OHT! I have a 2012 accord lx 4cyl with 105k...........the service booklet and maintenance mixer said 124, which is oil change, serpentine belt and spark plugs. It says to change timing chain on V6 version........do you think I should change it now or it still has life left? The car still runs fine.
The "4" service interval, as regards the timing belt, only refers to V6 motors. Starting 2003, the 4 cylinder engines were equipped with timing chains, lubricated by the engine oil.
The timing chains shouldn't need to be changed as long as oil changes are performed religiously and punctually. The contaminants the oil ends up carrying in it cause excessive wear on the links of the chain and cause them to stretch, necessitating the chain's replacement.
If you don't have a P0341, nor a grinding noise from the engine on cold starts, I'd not be worried about it.
Hope this helps.
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Thanks for the reply........I’ll keep doing the proper oil changes and keep an eye on it.......thanks.
Is your oil pump chain one tooth off? It looks like the gold link isn't on the dot. I'm asking because I'm doing my timing chains now, and mine is the same as yours. Not sure if it even matters on the oil pump.
Also, did you use a 6 mm allen/hex on the timing chain guide bolt? When I put a 6mm in there, if feels a little loose. I don't want to strip it.
Thanks for the video.
Hi Mark!
Pardon my videography but the links do need to be aligned with the dots...all 3 of them.
As to your question about the bolt, 6mm sounds right but I couldn't tell you off the top of my head what its size is...sorry.
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@@EKHondaMotive Thanks for the reply. Yes, it is 6mm. I did get it loose, but it took a lot of force.
Thanks so much for this video. I am doing this same job on a 2005 Acura TSX and i couldn't have made it this far without you.
Question. I noticed you didn't change the chain guides. My car has 256k miles would you recommend i change the guides?
At that mileage, I would.
I believe her car had low to mid 100's...
These engines' propensity for oil consumption and her poor oil change habits had a lot to do with the chain's stretch.
@ 250k+ miles...wear's definitely an issue I'd be concerned about.
Change them while you're there.
Good luck!
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So its the first white mark that comes by ?
I have a 2013 Honda Accord 4cyl engine with 128,000 miles on it , it has a timing chain in it I believe.. but wondering if there’s a certain specific mileage that it should be changed out ?
The short answer is, "No. They were 'intended' to be lifelong parts."
The problem is that the oil, upon which the longevity of the chain relies, has a change interval that's too long (for the conditions it experiences). As such, elevated friction levels cause the chain to stretch.
Additionally, it would appear that the revisions to the cam phasors make them less reliable/resilient...the '03-'07's didn't [commonly] suffer from the start-up rattle/grinding noises that afflict the newer models.
Hope that wasn't too long winded.
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I am trying to get the chain on right place but I always miss the top on in between two black. When i try to move camshaft and lock it it always comes back to same position any tips ???
When installing a new chain, alignment is made easy by just using the colored links at all three points.
As long as the points are in the correct position at all three spots, the timing will be correct. Installing the tensioner may be a challenge if the camshafts move but having a helper hold the camshafts might be necessary.
If you can, send a pic to thegqtech@gmail.com so I can see what you're dealing with.
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Good morning I I am in the same position to replace the chain. What Overing are you doing where did you find them. Is there two outings and one crank seal? Where did you find them thank you
Hi Steve!
I'm not sure what you mean by "overing"...
There's a link to the parts list for the job I this video's description. I recommend oemacuraparts.com
Good luck.
-100
I was asking on the timing cover is there only one O-ring and one crank seal
I never knew there were 2 chains in the engine.. should both not be replaced? or just the timing chain due to it faces more wear and tear when needed? what does the other chain do?
Only the timing chain need be replaced.
Te other chain runs the balancer shafts located behind the oil pump at the base of the block.
They typically do not need to be replaced.
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@@EKHondaMotive Thanks. Could you take a look at my latest video and help me diagnose the odd sound its been making? Would appreciate any help at all.
Thanks very much for posting this video. I had some trouble here and there, but made it through and its running nice. No cold startup rattle! Do you have a way where I can throw you a couple bucks?
I'm not an emotional guy but dammit, you're pushing it fellla!😁
I am elated that my labor of love has been of value to you.
And while I'm tempted to set up #Patreon or #Badges to rake in the $dough, I'm gonna be honest with you...
...all I ask is that you share my channel.
That'd be more than enough love shown.
Thanks a bunch and congrats!
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@@EKHondaMotive Consider it shared… 🙏
Hi! New Sub! Thanks for the awesome video. I am currently in a situation that perhaps you can suggest a solution for me.
As you are aware of the ticking issue at start up because of the VTC issue. My DOHC all have tremendous wear and chipping. 🤦♂️
Do I bother trying to fixing this engine (timing chain, tension era, etc...) 09 accord has a 185k on it.
I am just concerned now I am getting past my level of know how. I don’t know what I don’t know.
Thanks for your video and assistance! Be safe and be well!!!
Hey Johnny!
Sorry for the delayed response...I'm just seeing this.
So, with the level of wear you've described, an engine replacement would be my advice.
The parts alone would rival the price of the engine and then we're looking at labor times...
I hate to say it but, it's #enginetime.
While I don't have an engine swap video to recommend, I've seen several here on YT and I'm pretty sure that it's within the ability of a motivated wrencher like yourself...
...provided you have the tools and the friends and the requisite tools...
...we've all got the time now!😆👍
thegqtech@gmail.com if you've got any questions.
Good luck!
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One Hunnit Tech thanks for the reply! I’ve decided to go for the timing chain job and run it into the ground, ground and pound!!!! Hahaha. Thanks again, be healthy and stay safe!!!
@@WorkNHard 🤣🤣🤣
All the best man!
Let me know how it turns out!
Stay safe! #wrenchingislife #lockdownwrenching
So Can i rotate the crank pully clockwise with spark plugs removed?cause I want to do a piston soak with marble mystery oil, and manually crank the pistons so most of the oil passes the pistons.(stuck rings I think)
Depending on what it costs, go.for it.
Only rotate clockwise because unloading the tensioner might cause the chain to skip a tooth or more.
It's been my experience that once the rings are stuck, the only way to free them is manually.
I hope this helps.
Good luck.
-100
Ok, thank you.
I have a 2010 Honda Accord. I swapped the VTC actuator as well as the timing chain. All marks were in place where they needed to be. I cranked the entire system to make sure all was well, but never put the marks back to where they should. Both cam shafts and the crank shaft were on time with each other either way. When i turned the car back on, i got a check engine light with code "P0341". Am i right in assuming that i got that error code because i did not put the system back to where the marks needed to be before starting it up? Which is why the crank and cam shaft sensors are reporting an "incorrect phase"?
P0341 would be caused by the timing being off. Your turning the engine over and the marks not coming back to time indicate that they weren't quite right.
Were the marks lined up with the gold links before turning it over? Is the tensioner new? Was it released before barring the engine over?
I hate to say it but you'll have to go back and make sure the marks all lined up with the correct gold colored links before you turn the engine over. Then you turn it over until you're back at TDC. You might not have the links lined up. Nonetheless, the crank cog (or the 2nd set of marks on the harmonic damper) should line up with the corresponding mark on the block(or the timing cover), and the marks on the cam sprockets should line up with each other like this )--->
@@EKHondaMotive i did not turn it over until i made sure all marks and gold links on the crankshaft and cam shafts were where they needed to be and until the tensioner was installed. Would it be a tensioner issue?
@@EKHondaMotive some oil got into the harness connection of the vtc solenoid. It was connected as is. Would that be a problem?
Sorry, I didn't see your reply until just now.
How many miles are on the engine?
There's a likelihood that there's an issue with the VTC system.
If the VTC actuator was installed correctly, the (new?) chain has been lined up correctly, and the relevant connectors aren't soft set, then the VTC solenoid function and the screen/filter (behind the p/s pump) need to be checked.
Sorry bud, but this isn't easy to diag over text.
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@@EKHondaMotive thanks dude. I opened it up. Im off by 2 teeth. Its gonna be a fun week. Thanks for the help
Great Video. I was working on my 2013 accord and aligned the engine to top dead center with the crankshaft and arrows pointing up ( Cam gears) . I made the mistake by not taking into consideration the side marker on the gears. Is there away to properly to get TDC after one of the camshaft exhaust has been taken off? this is where I am, and completely lost. I was replacing my VVT actuator due to rattle noise.
There's an arrow that lines up with a dot/line the crankshaft cog. Line them up.
Then, on the far side of the camshafts (opposite the cam sprockets) there are peg holes that can be used to hold the camshafts in place. This should keep the sprockets lined up.
Next, route the chain, install and release the chain tensioner and don't forget to...
...REMOVE THE PEGS FROM THE CAMSHAFTS.😉👍
Good luck!✌
@@EKHondaMotive Thank you so much for your reply. I will attack this timing this weekend!
Hey, just watched the full video, not sure if I missed it but do you have to replace the timing chain guides ?
For the trouble you have to go through to get there, I would.
-100 😎👍
One Hunnit Tech alright thanks
So have a 2010 Honda Accord EX-L, i just replaced my actuator valve and my check engine light is still on, I’m fairly certain my timing chain. Realistically how much does it cost replace it? What’s a good price?
What's the diagnostic trouble code (DTC)?
At what time did you turn the VTC actuator from unlock to lock position after putting it on?
Thanks for the question.
Despite the instructions to the contrary, I lock it before installing it on the camshaft to ensure the lock pin lines up correctly. Then I ensure I torque it to spec using a torque wrench.
Note: Impact tools will ruin it.
Thanks again for your engagement!😁
- Feyi@EKH
@EKHondaMotive ahhh okay thank you! Now that makes sense. Great Job on the video! Gave me the visual I was looking for to get job done on my 03 rsx type s. Thanks 😊
Good job bro. Are you located in Los Angeles California by any chance? I need to do something like this but also install a K20 oil pump into my K24A2.
Unfortunately I'm in the DMV but I'm sure Young Static could point you in the right direction.
@@EKHondaMotive Thanks but no worries. I found a tuner shop close by with good reviews. I appreciate it.
Hey first of all. Great Job. I have a question. I took my 2010 Honda Accord EXL for an oil change, then they said my Serpentine Belt needed changing. A week later Check Engine, VSA and Triangle ! lights are on. Now they say I need a Timing Chain. I never had any lights and the car drove great. I didn't keep up with all oil changes because in set in storage all winter. I think they did something wrong, but the lights didn't show up till a week later. What you think. Help please $1400 job auto has 137,000 miles 4 cycliner. They have a buy back thing going on, but they haven't given me a price yet. So Do I sell or fix. I do owe about $4,000. I bought used 2 years ago for $7500. with 85000 miles on it. Senior on fixed income.
I appreciate you and all the information you gave.
Concice and accurate!
Amazing!
Ok, to start...
I hate to say that it's my opinion that it was just an unfortunate coincidence that a "cash grab" upsell preceded what might have occurred naturally.
That said, how'd they come to the conclusion that the timing chain needed to be replaced?
If the decision was based on a DTC, was it P0340 (then yeah, I'd agree) or P1009 (might just need a PCM update)?
Also, your engine has been found to be susceptible to premature piston ring wear causing excessive oil consumption which can lead to premature timing chain stretch...causing a P0340.
I'd raise a bit if a stink and demand an oil consumption test.
You'll be asked to pay for an oil change and come back periodically to see how much is being consumed.
If deemed excessive, then you might be eligible for a lot of warranty work, which may include new pistons and rings AND (!) the chain job.😊👍
Based on the numbers you've given me, I'd have to say that I'd find a repugable, independent (Honda) service guy, like me, local to you to keep the Accord in shape for reasonable cost.
I do not recommend a trade...at least not for this...
...unless for some reason the oil consumption is excessive and not covered.
Please reach out to me on thegqtech@gmail.com.
I'd like to see what I can find out for you in your area, including reputable service options.
Cheers! and Thanks!
-100
11:02 - Hmmm...I remember that style of jug....
Best video on this topic. Did you have to support the engine with something since you took the engine mount out?
Thanks!
To answer your question, yes...to take stress off of the mount bracket bolts before spinning them out.
-100
@@EKHondaMotive Thanks for the quick reply! I started the repair yesterday when you responded and finally drove it down the highway today. Good to have my VTEC back and my car not rolling it's R's on startup.
One more question , My timing chain has jumped 4 teeth how do I adjust the camshafts after removing the chain? should I unbolt the cams from the head and realign or rotate them while they are bolted to the head? Or is there another way to do it
🤔
Let's start with establishing that this engine is an interference engine.
Not sure that the valves would've touched at -4 teeth but, I'd remove the chain and reassemble it with old parts and see if it idles...saving the new parts (if they can be returned.)
Fingers crossed, it doesn't need head work.
Caution: we're only looking for the engine to idle. Don't rev it .
But to answer your other question, the engine can be timed without lifting the camshafts out...
...you might need a helping hand to keep things from slipping around.
Hope this helps. Best of luck.
-100
Should you lock the cam gear once you tighten the bolt or leave it unlocked?
I prefer to lock it (after torquing the bolt...with a torque wrench, never with an impact wrench!!!) so that I can time the camshaft to the others.
-100
@@EKHondaMotive thanks man appreciate the reply nice video🤙✌
I had my actuator replaced, and my tchain is still good not stretched. The CEL never came on anymore and the rattle and grinding noise has disappeared. Even though there is no CEL, why does it still show a permanent DTC on my obdII for P0341?
🤔
How'd you determine the chain isn't stretched?
P0341 is indicative of the fact that the chain is stretched...the camshafts are out of phase because of it.
-100
@@EKHondaMotive I had my mechanic swap the actuator only. He said the chain is still good. It just jumped a tooth. The actuator is the one that is faulty. The dtc actually went away completely, I had to do some sufficient amount of driving to have the ecu completely recognize the new part or reset. Thanks
@@domillete Good news!!!👏👏👏
I'm glad it worked out.
-100
Queston " why does the VVT actuator have to be in the UNLOCKED position when its install on the camshaft ?
Thanks for that very perceptive question.
It is precautionary.
Honda's worried about damage to the vanes and other internals of the actuator as the bolt is torqued.
The prescribed procedure has the assembly torqued to the camshaft whilst out of the engine. Since the instructions offer no explanation (just a warning) it is my guess that they're insuring against any jarring that might occur during torquing in this manner.
I have witnessed, firsthand, the destruction of one by a technician who used an impact gun to tighten the bolt. Unfortunately for him, he only found out after starting the engine!!!
As for me, I install the actuator on the shaft locked, loosely install the bolt and torque it after the camshaft and timing chain are installed securely.
I hope that answers your question.
Cheers!
Do you need to support the engine when removing the motor mount
No, you do not.
Loosen them a little at a time.
@@EKHondaMotive thanks for the quick reply. Have a good day👍
Thank you!!!
I have these codes with my car P0301 P0304 P0340 P0341 P0300 right now and I have changed the crankshaft, camshaft, battery, spark plugs. but it didnot work for me I have only 50000 miles on my Honda accord 2.4L. I have spend over a thousand dollar but I still couldnot figure it out. DO you think it is timing chain problem at 50000 miles?? Any help will be highly appreciated.
Hi!
You have several codes from two basic categories of engine operation: misfire codes (P030X codes) and engine timing codes (P034X) and while engine timing issues can cause misfires, I like to proceed as if they are independent variables.
Now, I am also going to assume that you meant you'd replaced the cam and crank sensors and not the shafts themselves (!).
So, back to your question; Honda's variable timing control (VTC) system uses the camshaft sensor to keep track of the pre-programmed changes in cam timing in reference to the crank's position during the various power modes the engine may be in. This is called the PHASE. Depending on how you retrieve the code, you may get the misleading "Canshaft sensor circuit range/performance" definition or the more accurate "Camshaft position sensor incorrect phase detected".
Now while your average parts cannoneer would advise on replacing whatever the code references (and this occasionally works), there are tests to confirm what is working and what's not.
All that hot air to say that it's not possible to diagnose the problem in the comment section.
Your engine's VTC oil circuit may have issues (solenoid or filter clogged...see Señor ScannerDanner's related video) but commonly, higher mileage engines that have had their oil changed less frequently than 3 months or 3,000 miles may have their timing chains experience chain stretch. This affects the aforementioned cam-to-crank phasing and cannot be accommodated by the VTC system...
Replacing the stretched chain is the only solution...if that's the problem.
Inspecting the chain tensioner's extension by removing the inspection cover and measuring it would confirm the chain's condition.
Also, quick tip, might as well replace the VTC actuator while you're in there.
I hope that long winded explanation helped.
One question so how do you align everything with the craft bolt off ?
Hi!
Hopefully, the alignment was done before the tension was released from the chain and before the chain was removed....!
But if the chain is off, and the crank and cam shafts are not aligned, the simplest way is to:
1. Turn the crankshaft, very slowly by hand, 90⁰ from the TDC mark. This to put all the pistons at half stroke.
If ANY resistance is felt, stop and go 90⁰ the other direction past TDC.
2. Align the camshafts (there are alignment marks on the sprokets).
3. Bring the crankshaft back to the TDC mark.
Hope this helps.
-100
Oh nah the chain is on do I just put the crank shaft bolt in and turn it till alligned ? And thanks man been doing this job right for the past week just waiting on parts
@@EKHondaMotive dang I started it and I hear some weird noise what you recommend?
So my 16 accord rattles when I start it up for 2 secs after I leave it sit all night , is the vvt solenoid bad? I dont have any codes runs great but THE RATTLE! Any clue?
Hi!
Unfortunately, the noise is symptomatic of the same issue...
Unfortunately the parts list and replacement procedure is slightly different than what I demonstrated.
Depending on your mileage, your powertrain might still fall under the 5yrs/60k mile warranty.
I'd check that out.
Good luck!🤞
-100
could someone give advice?...i have a 2007 accord with 89k. the timing chain cover has a leak and it's under warranty. but the mechanic strongly suggests i replace the chain and do a valve adjustment since it will be opened up already for the cover fix. cost is $300 to $400. is this a decent investment?
Hi!
First things first, provided oil changes are kept up with, theoretically timing chains are designed to last the life of the vehicle.
That said, the common problems that afflict the chain driven motors weren't prevalent with your model.
As long as the oil level wasn't low and your engine has no other running issues, I'd have the cover sealed (verify the leak beforehand and that the repair is performed afterwards) and call it a day.
I am curious though, the pricing for the chain and valve adjustment (+$300?) is very reasonable. I take it the repairs will be performed with OE parts???
Ask what the valve adjustment costs by itself.
Cheers!
-100
@@EKHondaMotive - it was purchased at a dealership called 'auto lenders'. the parts would not be honda parts i'm sure. the car seems like it was well maintained but i would have no idea if the oil changes were kept up or if it was ever driven with low oil levels. thanks for the reply. i'm not going to do the extra work.
Excellent video!
that little pin in the vvt phaser has to be removed once everything is put together correct? its just to keep it unlocked during install right?
Hi Patrick!
I'm not quite sure what pin you're referring to.
There's a "dowel" in the end of the camshaft, the one I show using the mirror. That indexes the phasor to the camshaft and is to never be removed.
Also, to prevent damage to the internals, torque the phasor to 83 ft lbs and then turn it until it locks.
I hope that helps.
@@EKHondaMotive I was wondering if you did turn it to the locked position after you torqued it. You never showed that you did nor did you mention to do it.
Thanks
How did you change the actuator? did you remove the camshaft from the car or you did it while it is still attached to the head.
Hi Eric.
I unbolted the actuator in place.
Halfway down, the camshaft has flats that you can put a wrench on to hold it.
It helps to do this with the chain still on to add resistance to the tendency of the cam to turn.
Hope this helps.
-100
@25:18 while using the impact there's an oil stain that kind of looks like a thumbs up directly above ! Good karma or some shit!!!!
😆👍
Hi I changed the solenoid, and the timing chain, but it still makes the grinding noise, hopefully this fixes the problem but is there anything else I should change?
Hello Mr Fernandez!
The rattling/"grinding" noise you hear comes from the falied cam actuator/phasor.
You have already replaced the chain but depending on how long it's been happening and the mileage of the car, you might want to replace the timing chain as the shock of the rattling can stretch the chain.
I hope this helps.
Cheers and good luck.
-100
One Hunnit Tech alright thank you very much, I bought the camshaft actuator and the VTC Actuator and I will be getting it replaced tomorrow, you just got yourself a new subscriber great content btw💯👌🏽
@Fabian Fernandez , did the noise go away changing the cam sprocket
What were the symptoms the car had?
DTC P0340
Im about to take the side cover off, do i have to drain the oil?
You don't have to but with what may drop into the oil pan while you're working and the fact that the oil level is high in the pan and might spill out while you work, I'd do it to make things easy.
-100
@@EKHondaMotive thank you
Nice well done.
Thumbs up 👍 you are great thanks!
Thanks!
Why did you replace the cam sprocket, do i need to do that as well?
Hi!
In this case, the phasor (adjustable sprocket) rattled on start-up. It had failed internally, as they are wont to do in this generation of engine, and is easier to replace now than after the cover's back on.
If you have the cover and timing chain off, I highly recommended its replacement.
I hope that helped.
Good luck!✌
-100
@@EKHondaMotive Hey, thanks another quick question, do i have to use the Hondabond, or can i use one of the permatex options at an Autozone?
What vtc actuator should I get for my k24z3 motor?
Hi!
I'd need to know the VIN of the car it's in/from.
-100
What the name of the bit you used to clean the sealant off the aluminum?
Dunno how I missed you comment...my apologies!
I don't remember the part number but it's a fine wire/bristle adapter that I got from Snap-On.
I'm doing this now to remind me to come back and put the part number in the description.
Hope this finds you and thanks for the question.
-100
omg ..talk allot
I'm curious as to why I got the thumb's down/dislikes...
Is there something I should do differently?
-100
Make it more concise. No novice should be trying this. A more advanced diyer can do without much of the detail covered. Just a thought
No this is a great video haha, its just the internet
Note that the thumbs down is also an indication to a user's YT algorithm. As you probably know, videos will show up in your feed that you would never have any intention on watching. If you give them a thumbs down, YT won't show you any more of these types of videos. I wish they had three indicators: Thumbs Up, Thumbs down (bad video) and then some kind of circle with an "x" that tells the algorithm not to show these anymore, but doesn't effect the feeling one gets that you're currently getting. The Thumbs Down gives the wrong message.
How can you no if the timing tension is bat
Excellent question!
When installed, the ram has a specified length (mm). If it's more than that, it's likely the chain has stretched.
As for the tensioner itself, it has a ratcheting mechanism to hold tension on the chain.
Inspection of the teeth for blunt/rounded edges coupled with trying to manually push the ram back in the tensioner body with the ratchet locked, will be the test of the tensioner.
Hope this helps!
-100
You replaced the timing chain tensioner as well?
Yup!👍
It should be a 24mm wrench for the flats
Correct but 23mm fits much snugger and is a better fit.
What’s the tourqe speck for the pulley?
If I recall correctly, it's 75 ft. lbs.
Sorry to bother but how did you remove it? I have tried with my air gun but I can’t seem to get it off
People that keep their oil changed at reasonable intervals rarely have chain issues with the K motors. Honda’s ridiculous 10K oil change intervals will kill the chains over time. I have numerous customers with over 200K miles with no chain replacement.
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Someone buy this guy a beer!!!
Excellently said Sir! Excellently said!
-100
I have a 09 accord coupe with a i4 (2.4) engine and I religiously change the oil every 3-5K miles max. I had the oil burning problem initially which was definitely a bummer, but thankfully I was able to have Honda repair it since it was still within the warranty. If you know your car has this and you didn’t get the chance to get it repaired, you should be checking and topping off your oil weekly as needed if you want a long life out of the engine. You may benefit from using the cheaper conventional oil since it will be wasting it and you’ll be replacing it often.
I love my Honda and I may be doing a timing chain replacement soon as preventative maintenance but it has over 210,000 miles and going strong!
@@rafaeltapia1101 I wouldn’t replace the chain until the engine starts throwing cam/crank correlation codes. The car will warn you when the chain is done.
Its a default that happens on alot of honas from these years, even once it's replaced it still happens down the line, it's very obnoxious.
What if you were to use an aftermarket camshaft phaser? Would the problem be fixed if you were to go aftermarket?
How much does this usually cost?
Excellent question!
As with most things, while market prices may vary, "you get what you pay for..."
I've a link in the description to the related parts needed and I'd recommend that any labor estimate under 5 hours be looked at suspiciously.
Depending on where you live, $850 - $1200 might be fair.
-100
@@EKHondaMotive Thanks Jeremy Payton
does this engine have vtec?
Yes it does. And because this engine's management system can adjust lift AND duration, it's referred to as i-VTEC.
Cheers!
-100
Good job! The stealer would have charged an arm and leg.
While unfortunately true, the dealership has overhead that I do not. Huge facility, plus utilities, plus insurance, plus taxes...
That's why I make videos; so those who want to do it themselves have a reference and those who are gonna pay someone to do it know what they're paying for.
Cheers!
-100
What would a reasonable price for such a job be by a mechanic like you?
Not to smart to use a wire brush the little wires break off if a wire goes in the crack or engine not good
I love you
30:50 isn't that a selonoid?
Yes. That's the VTC solenoid. It's responsible for moving the intake cam phasor.
-100
For the Love of Machinary never ever ever ever use any kind of wire brush on soft metal gasket surfaces . I am a technician , UTI , 50 yaers old and owner operator of SDRS Excele mobile mechanic.All trade schools and colleges that train technicians will cover this important topic.
2 Esdras 2:33
My 2014 2.4 Earth Dreams is making the cold start rattle. I can't find a TSB that includes the 2014. Here's the video I posted. ua-cam.com/video/0_j4vfMT8d8/v-deo.html
1:25:54 cheat! Didn’t show how much you torqued it
39 "Ugga duggahs"!😅
@@EKHondaMotive 😅 yup pretty much 😂 I just gave’r 100+ which may be way to much but the estimated 37ft-lb was basically hand tight. Some books say 180ft-lb but they forget to mention thats for new bolts.
@@EKHondaMotive I forgot to thank you for the video tho. By far the best on youtube! (And funny)
I’m sad to say that even after replacing stretched chain and tensioner I didn’t fix the awful vibrating sound the seems to be coming from inside the intake manifold.
Timing chain replacement? Nah!!!!
🤣🤣🤣
-100
Camera work was ridiculously awful, monologue was actually worse than the vomit inducing video work.
I've been advised against responding to negative comments but I'm not a "fair weather" type 'o guy so here goes...
While I apologize for the awfully nauseating production you perceived my labor of love as being, I find that those who criticize so bitterly typically haven't tried to videograph their passion and share it with the world on a virtually nonexistent budget.
Thanks for watching all the same.
-100
Could’ve saved lots of time with unnecessary chattering! Thanks for the video nonetheless.