Thanks for showing what I call the opportunities for improvement. I‘ve been wanting to make a drill press table. Now I know a couple of things to watch out for!
I totally relate to setting something down and having it disappear - at least a thousand times in my life! Especially when I am really focused the way you are in this video.
I made my table as well. Good video. A couple comments though. I made my fence as an angle. The knobs are on the leg behind the fence face, lower than the top of the fence. Cut an arch for clearance of the drill press column. Second is the replaceable table insert is offset so it can be rotated four times before needing to be replaced. Also drill an offset hole clear through the table under the insert so it is easier to pop out with a screwdriver poked up from below. Some one else mentioned a spacer under the table on top of the cast iron table for Handle clearance. Really good video and glad the shop Gremlins gave back the router bit!!
I loved the 3d printed router base plate to accept the threaded collars. Years ago my shop teacher at Cerritos Collage showed us a base plate with a variable radius perimeter. The perimeter followed a 2D curve called an Archimedes spiral where the distance from the center to the perimeter increases linearly with angle. The purpose of the fence was to allow very accurate widening of dados by tiny amounts simply by changing the point on the base that touches a fence and taking another pass. This offsets the bit either closer or farther depending on the direction of rotation. The base perimeter curve is only one rotation of the spiral. There is a step in radius where the curve crosses over itself. The size of this step determines the fineness or coarseness of the radius change when rotating the base. My teacher (William Ketelle ) made the base plate using a string, pencil and a nail to draw the spiral. The pencil was tied to one end of the string and the other end was wound around a large nail placed at the center of the base. The arc was drawn while unwinding the string from the nail. This gave a very small and linearly increasing change of radius as the string was unwound. The base was then cut out and sanded smooth. One of these days when I get a 3d printer I will try to make one of these spiral bases. I think the hardest part is just laying out the spiral. I suspect this is not a typical CAD feature.
Absolutely. It's a great workaround if you don't have a cnc. Plus, you can get clever and puzzle piece some templates together. Also, probably easier to make than a cnc template if I'm being honest....
Jake, Thank You! This is an excellent video and has given me some ideas. After 40 years, my old drill press finally bit the bullet and I got a new Wen. Time for a new fence and I'm almost 67 and I'll warn you. Losing a router bit in a shop is just the tip of the iceberg. If I had a dollar for every shop gremlin that swiped something I put down, every tool in my shop would be made by Festool. Cheers!
Good stuff. I am constantly reminding myself to not put shit down in random places. I spend far too much time looking for shit that I just had in hand, or that I know I just saw… somewhere.
I also had the problem of the crank handle hitting my table. I made a cutout at the back of the table to clear the handle. Worked great. Your table is much nicer than mine.
OK, so I have a drill press now so I came back to watch your build. I think my solution will not be as fancy but I am sure I will mess it up. Thanks for the video.
Great Video Jake. I "might sometimes" have that handle v. fence issue with my drill press and table. Easy solution, remove 2 of the 3 handles. Problem solved!
This is awesome, really like how you showed off your mistakes because its exactly the sort of mistakes I would make! Fun fact, you sound a lot like the Actor Adam Scott!
Remove the factory handle and carve or 3d print a solid long round handle (like a chisel handle) and install no need for the huge crank drill press tables are so easy to crank up
Really funny about the lost router bit! Did the same with a packet of dome nuts, used two, put the others away. 3 months later couldn't find them, bought new packet, used 2, put the rest away, and there was the first pack.
There is a law in the universe that states the only way to find something you lost is to buy a replacement. Then, and only then, will the lost item reappear.
Put a spacer underneath the table to lift it up enough to clear the crank handle. Then you can center the table and solve the racking problem. For the t-track, you can put new ones further out or in, and consider the originals as bonus track! 🙂 I've already designed a drill press table for myself, but that's one thing I'll double check first - thanks! I'm also including some slots in the table to allow f-clamps to go through, just in case I need that as an option.
@@davidpeters8813 Great tips! Yeah, I was thinking that other tables often have a drawer in the center, this would by default raise it up. Kinda solves my problem. Good idea for the f-clamp slots, you can never have too many clamps!
I have a mix of shop-built and store-bought accessories like this. The cost of building something nice, the time to do it, and the possibility of getting it wrong anyway are why when I see something well-designed and built that's affordable, I just buy it. Maybe it costs 20% more than home-made, but I have a shop to build stuff for the rest of the house. I don't want to spend most of my time in the shop working on the shop. That said, I did bold my own drill press table, I just went a lot simpler and cheaper than you did. No need for laminate unless you have some laying around. Use an MDF rather than acrylic insert. It's cheaper to replace, less likely to snap when using twist drills, and less likely to dull your bits when using forstner. Excellent tip regarding the crank clearance though. I ran into the same issue. I added 1" wood strips between the cast iron table and the auxiliary table to jack up the auxiliary table enough to clear the crank. Keeping the spindle lined up with the hole in the cast iron table is handy sometimes.
Sometimes, buying stuff is absolutely the way to go. You could definitely make this table cheaper, but Ive been on a mission to make my shop projects look a little nicer than they need to. Thanks for watching!
That would definitely work! I actually made a follow up video where I fixed all of these issues, check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/tvsvMg398YQ/v-deo.html
I feel your pain on the handle hitting the fence knob. Did the same thing myself. I changed out the taller knobs for a couple of wingnuts and it's has been an acceptable compromise. Love the look of the laminate though. Wish I'd thought of that.
@@MakewithJake Another option with your handle interference may be to build a small box to space the drill press table higher from the factory table, which would give you clearance in theory. Would also be an opportunity to add under table dust collection if you're feeling really squirrly.
The crank handle issues with the table mount and the drill portion could be easy to solve by replacing them with something else. Like a wheel with a little knob for gripping it would work well for the drill and the crank under the table could just be extended a bit pas the tables edge. You wouldn't have that twisting/bending when applying preasure or bumping into things anymore
@@MakewithJake 1. Makes video on custom drill press table 2. Makes video regarding improvements 3. Earns a new follower because I like how you will go back to older projects like that for followups 4. Bonus points for the surprising quick reply. Side Note I found this while looking for ideas for a custom CNC machine to build
@@SiontheRapadant that's awesome! Glad you liked the follow-up! I've always wanted a big CNC. Definitely a future project. For now, I have the 3D printer and laser engraver, which is pretty fun.
I removed my table crank and made a wheel knob that doesn’t interfere with my table. Another tip is to unscrew and remove two of the three handles. Nobody needs more than one.
Others have mentioned some of the solutions to the issues that cropped up. However, nobody has addressed an elephant in the room. It is best to put laminate on BOTH faces. Doing so minimizes the risk of moisture imbalance in the table. Also, it would be good to put finish on the exposed edges, including the interior of the insert cavity. You never know when you're going to knock over that cold one sitting on the DP table.
Valid argument. Its been on my todo list to apply finish, but its been 4+ months and the table seems flat. Maybe just because it is being held to the cast iron table?
Here’s my crank interference solution. On a piece of 2 x 12, set it on your original table and trace the circumference. Cut out and affix to the bottom of your new table. If this doesn’t make enough clearance, add more until it does.
Financially, it often makes more sense to buy a drill press table instead of building one, because the costs really add up quickly. However, if you have a youtube channel with a lot of subscribers and ad income from youtube and sponsors, that can balance out the expense or even flip it to a profit.
I would typically agree, but after looking at drill press tables, they just seemed far too expensive for what you get. This was an attempt at a quick, easy, low cost solution that could be made in a few hours. Obviously....I ran into some issues. haha
Oh No!! I am still not sure, to be honest. I eventually found it ON MY WORKBENCH. I did notice that it was just behind a block of wood, but I am 100% sure I moved that scrap wood during my search. So, shop gremlins probably stole it as a joke.
I have been watching a lot of videoes on UA-cam about building a drill press table. What surprises me most is that almost all of them are built with keeping the fence square to the drill press table. This does add a lot of complexity in making the drill press table. I do not think that you need to do this. You only need to worry about the distance from the center of the drill bit to the edge of the fence. Take a look at my video "Build an easy drill press guide" and I would be interested in hearing your comments about my design. I have responded to a lot of other videos with this same idea and have not heard back from a single one yet. My design does not have a dust collection system
Interesting, I havent had any issues with the fence so far. But to be honest, I usually only use it when I have some batch/production work. thanks for watching!
@8:27 Good call. I never cut anything but wood on my good miter saw. (If you keep an eye out, Direct Tools Outlet they will do a sale on refurbished tools at like 50% the normal refurbished price. i bought that same Ryobi for $39 now and they also do the Ryobi table saw for $59 if I recall. I wouldn't use either for woodworking, but for non-wood use, they're perfect because you don't need to worry about them if you're making "questionable" cuts, or cutting things like aluminum. ) Hopefully one day they'll include the cheap 9" bandsaw and that POS benchtop planer. Then I'll have own metal shop for my woodshop 😂😂😂!!!
Experience has shown me that the best way to find something I've misplaced is to buy another one. Soon after, I will find the item I misplaced. Also, if you're going to be setting down little things that can roll, put them in a magnetic parts tray.
awe man...I have probably watched this video 4 million times, and somehow, I didnt even catch that! But yes, you are totally right...my brain must have been confused because the router was upside down. lol
3 minutes in I've seen half dozen things worth doing differently. One thought that seems excellent is using sacrificial inserts designed to be flipped or rotated to provide fresh surfaces. That thought was suggested by the diamond orientation of your essentially square insert.
Definitely! That's what this video was all about. So many different ways to build a project, and somehow, I chose some "not so good" ways. Thanks for watching!
I see a couple of annoyances with your crank solution. The traditional way of drilling angled holes would be to rotate the table out of level. Because the fence is now angled 45 deg to the axis of rotation, the rotation axis of the hole would also be 45 deg to the fence. This can make many jobs just a bit harder, but no impossible. Second, When tramming (often mistakenly called leveling) the table, the rotation axis is at 45 degrees instead of aligned to the Y axis of the table. This is not a show stopper, but just makes it a little harder. Could adding a piece of plywood to lift the bottom of the table to allow clearance of the crank? At the same time, add shims to get the Y axis trammed perfectly. Of course that gives up a little vertical capacity, but that is not an issue for the most part. Finally, one thing I want to do with my drill press is to constrain the rotation of the table that happens when cranking the table up and down. It would be nice to be able to lock off the horizontal rotation, and just lift or lower the table.
I generally would not use 3M 77 over the 3M 90. I do a lot of laminate work (well I used to I am retired now). I generally used regular spray contact but I realize that is a professional set up. But I do use the 3M 77 when I want something to be temporary. If I might have to pull it apart. Contact adhesive only remains an adhesive if it never gets a chance to dry out so I would seal the edges. The 3M 90 is the better choice especially for thicker standard grade laminates.
Thanks for the tip! I'll definitely check out 3M90 for my next laminate project. The 77 seems to be holding up on the fee projects I've used it on. I used a can of contact cement for my outfeed table and that went ok, but it was pretty tough to get even and flat. Thanks for watching!
I made two big mistakes on my drill press table... 1- my T-tracks on the table for the fence don't extend out to the front edge. Not sure why I did that, I may take those out and extend them the full length so that I can load the fence from the outside. 2- I didn't add a dip in the fence (set it too high) so the chuck can bump into the fence if it's too close (when working on a small/flat piece). annoying!
Not sure which link you are looking for, but here is the formica I used (probably the hardest to source)amzn.to/3qy5Vzh The rest of the parts can be found at your local hardware store or home center!
I ordered mine through Lowes, but here is a link to Amazon as well: Lowes: www.lowes.com/pd/Formica-Brand-Laminate-Solid-Colors-48-in-x-96-in-Black-Matte-Laminate-Kitchen-Countertop-Sheet/1000069741 Amazon: amzn.to/3KhawNZ Thanks for watching!
This press has worked like a charm for my projects ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
You could also put a few pieces of ply in between the metal table of the drill press and your custom table. This would create clearance for the handle.
@9:15 get rid of the crank handle and mount a bolt or nut, or anything, there that you can use to turn the handle with a drill. you can also extend the handle outwards, but that's a pain. Another cool trick I'm wanting to try is attaching a hamster wheel (with a hamster*) then dangle a carrot in front of it on one side or the other to raise/lower the table. * Protip- Don't try this technique with a router sled or cnc machine to make to router move. RIP: Gonzo. Mr Pickle Pants. Lord Puffington. Lord Puffington the 2nd. Lord Puffington the 3rd. X. Y. and finally, Z. May your sacrifices place you in the wheels of Valhalla!
@@jeffcarr392 oh gotcha. Clearance for the spindle. Especially for small parts and small drill bits, the spindle needs to get close to the part/fence. So clearing it out helps a lot.
I've been looking for a big reliable square and I don't want to pay Woodpeckers 300 bucks. Can you please tell me the manufacturer and size of your silver colored sqaure? And do you find it to be 100% accurate? Thanks for your great video.
Thanks for watching sure which square that was, but I have (2) big ones that I use. The first is a Framing Square. These are about $10-15 at Home Depot. www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-16-in-x-24-in-Steel-Framing-Square-1110/100204103 The other is a T-Square, typically used for drywall www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Board-Tools-22-in-x-48-in-Original-Drywall-T-Square-88-012/100095247 These are plenty square for most projects and really handy to have around the shop. hope that helps!
"MEASURE ONCE CUT TWICE????????" - OR "MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE!" - I KNOW YOU MEAN CUT THE TEST PIECE AND ADJUST IF NEEDED BEFORE THE ACTUAL PROJECT - THAT MEANS MEASURING MORE THAN ONCE AND CUTTING MORE THAN ONCE -
I don't think it is close to being awsome unless you are smart enough to motorized the table to go up and down at a press of a button.and get rid of the stupid crank handle.
Fair enough. I did actually make an update video where I fixed a lot of these issues. Although, I didnt add a motor.... ua-cam.com/video/tvsvMg398YQ/v-deo.html
There is. But it isnt always easy to find, and can be quite expensive at times. Using the plywood is nice because it wont sag over time like MDF might.
Cracking a cold one open from the fridge while glue dries was a missed opportunity. Edit: maybe crank a cold one after. Bc the only solution to those f-ups is a beer.
@@MakewithJake You did not have the beer, because in the back of your mind you knew that you were going to be using a table saw next, and you have the good sense not to get near a running table saw after you have been drinking. 😁
I have analyzed the situation over many years and have come to the conclusion that there is a parallel universe that is populated by little ass- holes. Their favorite thing to do is to move the tool that you just used. Not far. Just enough that you can not lay your hands on when next you want it.
Check out the plans for this build here: etsy.me/3YFCVnt
So glad I’m not the only person who puts things down and they immediately teleport to a different dimension….
How did my tape measure get into the refrigerator?
Great video. Getting ready to build my drill press table. Now I'm going to verify clearances first.
Thanks for showing what I call the opportunities for improvement. I‘ve been wanting to make a drill press table. Now I know a couple of things to watch out for!
Glad I could help!
I totally relate to setting something down and having it disappear - at least a thousand times in my life! Especially when I am really focused the way you are in this video.
Right? Thanks for watching!
I made my table as well. Good video. A couple comments though. I made my fence as an angle. The knobs are on the leg behind the fence face, lower than the top of the fence. Cut an arch for clearance of the drill press column. Second is the replaceable table insert is offset so it can be rotated four times before needing to be replaced. Also drill an offset hole clear through the table under the insert so it is easier to pop out with a screwdriver poked up from below. Some one else mentioned a spacer under the table on top of the cast iron table for Handle clearance. Really good video and glad the shop Gremlins gave back the router bit!!
Good idea! Thanks for watching!
I loved the 3d printed router base plate to accept the threaded collars.
Years ago my shop teacher at Cerritos Collage showed us a base plate with a variable radius perimeter. The perimeter followed a 2D curve called an Archimedes spiral where the distance from the center to the perimeter increases linearly with angle.
The purpose of the fence was to allow very accurate widening of dados by tiny amounts simply by changing the point on the base that touches
a fence and taking another pass. This offsets the bit either closer or farther depending on the direction of rotation.
The base perimeter curve is only one rotation of the spiral. There is a step in radius where the curve crosses over itself. The size of this step determines the fineness or coarseness of the radius change when rotating the base.
My teacher (William Ketelle ) made the base plate using a string, pencil and a nail to draw the spiral.
The pencil was tied to one end of the string and the other end was wound around a large nail placed at the center of the base.
The arc was drawn while unwinding the string from the nail. This gave a very small and linearly increasing change of radius as the string was unwound. The base was then cut out and sanded smooth.
One of these days when I get a 3d printer I will try to make one of these spiral bases. I think the hardest part is just laying out the spiral. I suspect this is not a typical CAD feature.
Love the use of 3D Printing templates for the router! I am definitely going to start incorporating that into my workflow.
Absolutely. It's a great workaround if you don't have a cnc. Plus, you can get clever and puzzle piece some templates together. Also, probably easier to make than a cnc template if I'm being honest....
Jake, Thank You! This is an excellent video and has given me some ideas. After 40 years, my old drill press finally bit the bullet and I got a new Wen. Time for a new fence and I'm almost 67 and I'll warn you. Losing a router bit in a shop is just the tip of the iceberg. If I had a dollar for every shop gremlin that swiped something I put down, every tool in my shop would be made by Festool. Cheers!
haha, its wild how things disappear. thanks for watching!
Good stuff. I am constantly reminding myself to not put shit down in random places. I spend far too much time looking for shit that I just had in hand, or that I know I just saw… somewhere.
I also had the problem of the crank handle hitting my table. I made a cutout at the back of the table to clear the handle. Worked great. Your table is much nicer than mine.
It's definitely a bummer, thanks for watching!
OK, so I have a drill press now so I came back to watch your build. I think my solution will not be as fancy but I am sure I will mess it up. Thanks for the video.
Have fun!
Building mine now. Learning from your mistakes. Thanks for letting us know!
Have fun!
I could easily see myself making those mistakes, but now I won’t have to - thanks for sharing.
haha, glad I could save you the embarrassment! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for showing what not to do. Hopefully I'll remember those design considerations when I get around to building my drill press table.
I hope so too! It's a serious bummer when you work all weekend, only to run into a silly problem like this.
Great Video Jake. I "might sometimes" have that handle v. fence issue with my drill press and table. Easy solution, remove 2 of the 3 handles. Problem solved!
Great idea! Sometimes the simplest solution is the best solution!
THX!I made all mistakes as you did plus more!
awesome!! (lol) thanks for watching!
Awesome video, thanks for showing the mistakes, we all make them!
You got that right!
Fantastic video Jake. Informative and entertaining!!
Thanks man! That's what I'm trying to do!
This is awesome, really like how you showed off your mistakes because its exactly the sort of mistakes I would make! Fun fact, you sound a lot like the Actor Adam Scott!
Haha, thats awesome. Adam Scott is great!
Great video! Sorry about your little hiccups but they’re valuable lessons for others. Thanks for sharing.
Nice video Miskate were made but we all learn from mistakes! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I bought a router for my cnc used the wrench once and have yet to find where I had set it down after first use.
😂
good video. ca nrelate. BTW where did oyu found the laminate??? I can only find 4x8 sheet which is too big for what I need.
I bought the 4x8 sheet. Actually, several at this point. I am not sure where to get it in smaller cuts.
Shop Nation sent me over. Love the channel!
Welcome!! Excited to have you aboard the Make with Jake train!
Remove the factory handle and carve or 3d print a solid long round handle (like a chisel handle) and install no need for the huge crank drill press tables are so easy to crank up
Thanks for watching!
Really funny about the lost router bit! Did the same with a packet of dome nuts, used two, put the others away. 3 months later couldn't find them, bought new packet, used 2, put the rest away, and there was the first pack.
haha, dang shop gremlins!
There is a law in the universe that states the only way to find something you lost is to buy a replacement. Then, and only then, will the lost item reappear.
Yep! exactly. Thats why sometimes I dont bother looking for things....lol
Let me know what huge mistakes you made on your last project! Also, any ideas how I can fix mine? 😬
Put a spacer underneath the table to lift it up enough to clear the crank handle. Then you can center the table and solve the racking problem. For the t-track, you can put new ones further out or in, and consider the originals as bonus track! 🙂
I've already designed a drill press table for myself, but that's one thing I'll double check first - thanks! I'm also including some slots in the table to allow f-clamps to go through, just in case I need that as an option.
@@davidpeters8813 Great tips! Yeah, I was thinking that other tables often have a drawer in the center, this would by default raise it up. Kinda solves my problem.
Good idea for the f-clamp slots, you can never have too many clamps!
I have a mix of shop-built and store-bought accessories like this. The cost of building something nice, the time to do it, and the possibility of getting it wrong anyway are why when I see something well-designed and built that's affordable, I just buy it. Maybe it costs 20% more than home-made, but I have a shop to build stuff for the rest of the house. I don't want to spend most of my time in the shop working on the shop.
That said, I did bold my own drill press table, I just went a lot simpler and cheaper than you did. No need for laminate unless you have some laying around. Use an MDF rather than acrylic insert. It's cheaper to replace, less likely to snap when using twist drills, and less likely to dull your bits when using forstner. Excellent tip regarding the crank clearance though. I ran into the same issue. I added 1" wood strips between the cast iron table and the auxiliary table to jack up the auxiliary table enough to clear the crank. Keeping the spindle lined up with the hole in the cast iron table is handy sometimes.
Sometimes, buying stuff is absolutely the way to go. You could definitely make this table cheaper, but Ive been on a mission to make my shop projects look a little nicer than they need to.
Thanks for watching!
I suggest you add additional plywood under table shaped the same as metal table to raise it up for handle clearance.
That would definitely work! I actually made a follow up video where I fixed all of these issues, check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/tvsvMg398YQ/v-deo.html
I feel your pain on the handle hitting the fence knob. Did the same thing myself. I changed out the taller knobs for a couple of wingnuts and it's has been an acceptable compromise. Love the look of the laminate though. Wish I'd thought of that.
Thanks for watching! Yep, I've been trying to use the black laminate whenever I can. It's pretty nice!
Great video, Jake!
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
@@MakewithJake Another option with your handle interference may be to build a small box to space the drill press table higher from the factory table, which would give you clearance in theory. Would also be an opportunity to add under table dust collection if you're feeling really squirrly.
Your experience with the router bit was odd. I find that a lost item will ALWAYS turn up when I buy a new one.
Crazy right?
Great video and great drill press table!!!
Thanks! If only the table wasnt in the way of the drill press! haha
@@MakewithJake Right?! Did you figure out a solution for that?
I have some ideas. Once I figure out the best ones, I might make a follow up video of my modifications.
It looks good!! Can't wait to see drill press table 2.0 muahaha!
You and me both! Should be a good follow up video though!
The crank handle issues with the table mount and the drill portion could be easy to solve by replacing them with something else.
Like a wheel with a little knob for gripping it would work well for the drill and the crank under the table could just be extended a bit pas the tables edge.
You wouldn't have that twisting/bending when applying preasure or bumping into things anymore
Definitely, lots of other solutions. Here's how I ended up fixing it: ua-cam.com/video/tvsvMg398YQ/v-deo.html
@@MakewithJake
1. Makes video on custom drill press table
2. Makes video regarding improvements
3. Earns a new follower because I like how you will go back to older projects like that for followups
4. Bonus points for the surprising quick reply.
Side Note I found this while looking for ideas for a custom CNC machine to build
@@SiontheRapadant that's awesome! Glad you liked the follow-up! I've always wanted a big CNC. Definitely a future project. For now, I have the 3D printer and laser engraver, which is pretty fun.
@@MakewithJake theres a few videos on them already, but hey always room for more and improving on already existing ideas.
I removed my table crank and made a wheel knob that doesn’t interfere with my table. Another tip is to unscrew and remove two of the three handles. Nobody needs more than one.
This is so much fun and I don't even have a drill press 😂
haha, glad you had fun!
Others have mentioned some of the solutions to the issues that cropped up. However, nobody has addressed an elephant in the room. It is best to put laminate on BOTH faces. Doing so minimizes the risk of moisture imbalance in the table. Also, it would be good to put finish on the exposed edges, including the interior of the insert cavity. You never know when you're going to knock over that cold one sitting on the DP table.
Valid argument. Its been on my todo list to apply finish, but its been 4+ months and the table seems flat. Maybe just because it is being held to the cast iron table?
let me guess - right after buying that new router bit you found the old one again.
7:25 did i know it or did i know it?
Yeah...I have 2 now.
Here’s my crank interference solution. On a piece of 2 x 12, set it on your original table and trace the circumference. Cut out and affix to the bottom of your new table. If this doesn’t make enough clearance, add more until it does.
Good solution. Other tables add drawers under, which helps lift it up. I was trying to keep it compact, while maintaining my full vertical capacity.
Financially, it often makes more sense to buy a drill press table instead of building one, because the costs really add up quickly. However, if you have a youtube channel with a lot of subscribers and ad income from youtube and sponsors, that can balance out the expense or even flip it to a profit.
I would typically agree, but after looking at drill press tables, they just seemed far too expensive for what you get. This was an attempt at a quick, easy, low cost solution that could be made in a few hours. Obviously....I ran into some issues. haha
I feel for you on those unexpected design issues. They always love to bite ya in the ass when you're done 😅
Totally. I actually filmed this months ago, but it took this long for my to finally own up and share it with the world. haha
I don't feel so bad now I lose things all the time I'm lot older I really don't feel so bad...lol...like the table 👍
Haha, glad I could make you feel better!
But... where WAS that router bit? I'm not sure I'll be able to sleep until I find out :o
Oh No!!
I am still not sure, to be honest. I eventually found it ON MY WORKBENCH. I did notice that it was just behind a block of wood, but I am 100% sure I moved that scrap wood during my search.
So, shop gremlins probably stole it as a joke.
@@MakewithJake Yeah sounds like a classical shop gremlin issue and thanks, now I can finally sleep again
I have shop gremlins too. =p
It always amazes me when I have something one second and then it’s just… gone!
Right???!!
I had the same problem when i installed my drill press table. My solution was that i removed the crank and replaced it by a round knob.
Take a look at the workshop drill press table this is what I built works awesome
Cool! Thanks for watching!
I have been watching a lot of videoes on UA-cam about building a drill press table. What surprises me most is that almost all of them are built with keeping the fence square to the drill press table. This does add a lot of complexity in making the drill press table. I do not think that you need to do this. You only need to worry about the distance from the center of the drill bit to the edge of the fence. Take a look at my video "Build an easy drill press guide" and I would be interested in hearing your comments about my design. I have responded to a lot of other videos with this same idea and have not heard back from a single one yet. My design does not have a dust collection system
Interesting, I havent had any issues with the fence so far. But to be honest, I usually only use it when I have some batch/production work. thanks for watching!
@8:27 Good call. I never cut anything but wood on my good miter saw.
(If you keep an eye out, Direct Tools Outlet they will do a sale on refurbished tools at like 50% the normal refurbished price. i bought that same Ryobi for $39 now and they also do the Ryobi table saw for $59 if I recall. I wouldn't use either for woodworking, but for non-wood use, they're perfect because you don't need to worry about them if you're making "questionable" cuts, or cutting things like aluminum. )
Hopefully one day they'll include the cheap 9" bandsaw and that POS benchtop planer. Then I'll have own metal shop for my woodshop 😂😂😂!!!
thats a great deal
Hello from Charleston, nice job!
Hello right back at ya! Thanks for watching!
Experience has shown me that the best way to find something I've misplaced is to buy another one. Soon after, I will find the item I misplaced.
Also, if you're going to be setting down little things that can roll, put them in a magnetic parts tray.
Exactly!
Good call on the magnetic tray, i really should get a few more of those to keep around.
Nice video.. little correction though, @3:03 that was a flush trim bit with the bearing on the bottom.
awe man...I have probably watched this video 4 million times, and somehow, I didnt even catch that! But yes, you are totally right...my brain must have been confused because the router was upside down. lol
3 minutes in I've seen half dozen things worth doing differently. One thought that seems excellent is using sacrificial inserts designed to be flipped or rotated to provide fresh surfaces. That thought was suggested by the diamond orientation of your essentially square insert.
Definitely! That's what this video was all about. So many different ways to build a project, and somehow, I chose some "not so good" ways.
Thanks for watching!
I see a couple of annoyances with your crank solution. The traditional way of drilling angled holes would be to rotate the table out of level. Because the fence is now angled 45 deg to the axis of rotation, the rotation axis of the hole would also be 45 deg to the fence. This can make many jobs just a bit harder, but no impossible.
Second, When tramming (often mistakenly called leveling) the table, the rotation axis is at 45 degrees instead of aligned to the Y axis of the table. This is not a show stopper, but just makes it a little harder.
Could adding a piece of plywood to lift the bottom of the table to allow clearance of the crank? At the same time, add shims to get the Y axis
trammed perfectly. Of course that gives up a little vertical capacity, but that is not an issue for the most part.
Finally, one thing I want to do with my drill press is to constrain the rotation
of the table that happens when cranking the table up and down. It would be nice to be able to lock off the horizontal rotation, and just lift or lower the table.
Oops!! I just watched the follow up video where you fix the cranking problem and then some.
My apologies. You are doing a great job.
I generally would not use 3M 77 over the 3M 90. I do a lot of laminate work (well I used to I am retired now). I generally used regular spray contact but I realize that is a professional set up. But I do use the 3M 77 when I want something to be temporary. If I might have to pull it apart. Contact adhesive only remains an adhesive if it never gets a chance to dry out so I would seal the edges. The 3M 90 is the better choice especially for thicker standard grade laminates.
Thanks for the tip! I'll definitely check out 3M90 for my next laminate project. The 77 seems to be holding up on the fee projects I've used it on.
I used a can of contact cement for my outfeed table and that went ok, but it was pretty tough to get even and flat.
Thanks for watching!
I made two big mistakes on my drill press table...
1- my T-tracks on the table for the fence don't extend out to the front edge. Not sure why I did that, I may take those out and extend them the full length so that I can load the fence from the outside.
2- I didn't add a dip in the fence (set it too high) so the chuck can bump into the fence if it's too close (when working on a small/flat piece). annoying!
awe man, thanks for sharing! Funny how it can be so easy to walk right past the obvious...
you had me with the like and subscribe lol
so.....how bout those links you mentioned for materials?
Not sure which link you are looking for, but here is the formica I used (probably the hardest to source)amzn.to/3qy5Vzh
The rest of the parts can be found at your local hardware store or home center!
where is the link for the plastic laminate
l bought (WEN) one for 50$ on amazon. No wood shop or 3 d here! Thanks mister!
Cool!
Can you remove 2 of the drill press knob/levers? Might help with clearance.
Thats a good idea actually. I wonder if just removing the red part might give just enough clearance? Thanks for the tip!
@@MakewithJake Colin at Wood Work Web YT channel did that to his drill press awhile back. Unscrewed 2 of them.
@@partsdave8943 woh, so Im not the only person who messed this up? Ill go check that out. Thank you!
Where is the link to the laminate ?
I ordered mine through Lowes, but here is a link to Amazon as well:
Lowes: www.lowes.com/pd/Formica-Brand-Laminate-Solid-Colors-48-in-x-96-in-Black-Matte-Laminate-Kitchen-Countertop-Sheet/1000069741
Amazon: amzn.to/3KhawNZ
Thanks for watching!
@ 2:38...super 77. How is that holding up two years later?
You should have put laminate on both sides to keep it flat
Ive heard that from a few people, but so far, the table is still dead flat.
This press has worked like a charm for my projects ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
Do you have a website?
I do! makewithjake.net
Link to Formica source?
amzn.to/3lnR1wf
You could also put a few pieces of ply in between the metal table of the drill press and your custom table. This would create clearance for the handle.
Great video!! I'll say it.... you will be at 100,000 subs within the next year... keep going "Im going to build a drillpress table" lol
wow, I'll have to take your word for it! Thanks for watching!
@9:15 get rid of the crank handle and mount a bolt or nut, or anything, there that you can use to turn the handle with a drill.
you can also extend the handle outwards, but that's a pain.
Another cool trick I'm wanting to try is attaching a hamster wheel (with a hamster*) then dangle a carrot in front of it on one side or the other to raise/lower the table.
* Protip- Don't try this technique with a router sled or cnc machine to make to router move. RIP: Gonzo. Mr Pickle Pants. Lord Puffington. Lord Puffington the 2nd. Lord Puffington the 3rd. X. Y. and finally, Z. May your sacrifices place you in the wheels of Valhalla!
Ill implement this hamster method asap. but ill be sure to grab some spares from the pet store while im there, just in case.
The only way to find a lost tool is to buy a replacement. The lost object will appear.
That is pretty much what happened...
Why do you have the dropped section in the middle of your fence ?
I think you mean for the replaceable insert? this way, when the insert gets chewed up from lots of drilling, it is easy to replace.
@@MakewithJake the movable vertical fence, not the horizontal surface with the inserts.
@@jeffcarr392 oh gotcha. Clearance for the spindle. Especially for small parts and small drill bits, the spindle needs to get close to the part/fence. So clearing it out helps a lot.
@@MakewithJake oh, of course, thanks
I've been looking for a big reliable square and I don't want to pay Woodpeckers 300 bucks. Can you please tell me the manufacturer and size of your silver colored sqaure? And do you find it to be 100% accurate? Thanks for your great video.
Thanks for watching sure which square that was, but I have (2) big ones that I use. The first is a Framing Square. These are about $10-15 at Home Depot. www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-16-in-x-24-in-Steel-Framing-Square-1110/100204103
The other is a T-Square, typically used for drywall www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Board-Tools-22-in-x-48-in-Original-Drywall-T-Square-88-012/100095247
These are plenty square for most projects and really handy to have around the shop.
hope that helps!
@@MakewithJake Thanks so much for taking time to send me these links Jake. I very much appreciate it.
@@dwayneford1990 anytime! Happy to help!
@@dwayneford1990 anytime!
Thanks for leaving that in. Good to know that I’m not alone in my mistakes out there. #impostersyndrome
100%!! We all make mistakes, which is why we all need to get better at sharing our failures. :-)
Oh man, soo many issue in one little project, lol!
It was very sad....
Tis many a slip slip twixt cup and the lip!
"MEASURE ONCE CUT TWICE????????" - OR "MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE!" - I KNOW YOU MEAN CUT THE TEST PIECE AND ADJUST IF NEEDED BEFORE THE ACTUAL PROJECT - THAT MEANS MEASURING MORE THAN ONCE AND CUTTING MORE THAN ONCE -
All are true!
Bet that was a 10mm bit
No, 3.5 whales.
@@MakewithJake I’m not even sure what that is, maybe a British size?
Why didn't you just 3d print the table?
doh! Maybe I will! Ill need to either get a bigger printer, or a smaller drill press first...
nice Table oops ah 😊
haha
@3:04 *bottom
I like to walk on my ceilings at home, so my personal opinion is that the bearing is at the top. XD
@@MakewithJake _press finger to your lips_ Shhhh... Say no more Lionel Richey fan... say no more.
Never build something like this that you can buy for under $100. My drill press table was $50 and worth every penny.
Why buy something when you can build it for twice the price, right? Yay woodworking!
The music is a bit much.
Get som clamps 🗜
That would be too easy!
I don't think it is close to being awsome unless you are smart enough to motorized the table to go up and down at a press of a button.and get rid of the stupid crank handle.
Fair enough. I did actually make an update video where I fixed a lot of these issues. Although, I didnt add a motor....
ua-cam.com/video/tvsvMg398YQ/v-deo.html
Most of your video was showing us what you built, with out explaining what your mistakes were. Too much UA-cam fluff! I don’t subscribe to “fluff”.
Thanks for the feedback! My goal on this channel is to reduce "UA-cam Fluff" as much as possible, so I appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for watching!
There is no laminated MDF in US?
There is. But it isnt always easy to find, and can be quite expensive at times. Using the plywood is nice because it wont sag over time like MDF might.
Cracking a cold one open from the fridge while glue dries was a missed opportunity.
Edit: maybe crank a cold one after. Bc the only solution to those f-ups is a beer.
Dude...we joke about facepalm, but I litterally had to just pick my face up off of my desk when I read that. I have no idea why I didnt do that....uhg
@@MakewithJake 🥴
I'm with this guy, Beer is the answer to all life's problems!
Im good with that.
@@MakewithJake You did not have the beer, because in the back of your mind you knew that you were going to be using a table saw next, and you have the good sense not to get near a running table saw after you have been drinking. 😁
I have analyzed the situation over many years and have come to the conclusion that there is a parallel universe that is populated by little ass- holes. Their favorite thing to do is to move the tool that you just used. Not far. Just enough that you can not lay your hands on when next you want it.
actually a glue sandwich
FFS please stop using rock guitar as a music. Silence would be infinitely better.
Thanks for the input. You could also hit the mute button, and then turn on Captions. No more rock music!
Purchased parts? Why not just buy the damn thing. Nothing new here.