Thanks so much. Everyone needs a teacher. The safe occupation of our hobbies depends on it. I hope my support of your hard work helps show my gratitude .. Dr. K
Charles Moeller - And there are other ways to size and lubricate cast bullets, like the Lee push through sizer kits - plus the Lee Tumble Lube Molds often require no sizing at all, and the lubing can be done with the simple 45/45/10 system or just plain Lee Liquid Alox... Good shootin' to ya, FC
I bought the same lube press you have the only mistake I made was trying to feed the lube. I did not know the threads were in reverse so took awhile but hey got it to work. Cool tool keep up the great videos.
gbrinfo-Thanks for the comment and info...great to hear from shooters and enthusiasts on the Continent. Where ever there are shooters, RCBS will serve them well. Best regards to you as one and to France as many...
Your bullets look better when they are lubed than mine do so guess I will need to keep working at it. Seems like my lube is kinda messy and all over the bullet .thanks for your videos lot of knowledge you have to offer.
I Use to get all the free Linotype Lead free from the Print shops I use to repair their Machines years ago, I casted thousands of Bullets amd Fishing Sinkers for friends also, Sadly these old style Print Shops no longer Operate with Lead now that the world of Modern Tec has changed the Printing Industry, It was great while it lasted, Still have some stored away for casting etc.
Hi from france, good job, congratulations . Very interesting video too . Really informative . RCBS is more expensive than the others generally (in france) ; but we have more for the price .
dfanman1-Thanks for the question. I could see myself having a collection of nose punches. But then I did a mod. Since I prefer SWCs in all my revolvers and TCs in all my autos, I get around the nose punch problem by taking a SWC nose punch and flattening it out perfectly square and polishing it. Then the same nose punch is used for all cast bullets even the rifle bullets that are FN. If you use SWC punch for RN, you might get a ring around your RN - not what we want. see2
Steve Oh- Thanks for the questions. If you have to buy the pure lead, that is a good price. My base lead, I get for free - picking up range scrap, and from local dentists using x-ray film ( I ask them to save the lead foils for me=pure lead for free). Free is the best price. You need special dies to swage jackets onto lead cores. And the jackets are usually an alloy of copper and nickel. Have a great day.
MERSEDES G-Thanks for your good question. There are a number of reasons you don't want pure lead for 9mm. You want an alloy like hardball lead - 2% tin 6-7% antimony. 1) no tin in your alloy = hard to cast good bullets (note shotgun slugs cast fine with pure lead) 2) no antimony in your alloy = soft bullets = autopistol malfunctions 3) no antimony in your alloy = barrel leading and poor accuracy Good shootin' to ya...
Rowan Francis - I subbed your channel because I'd like to see a more detailed vid on your mods. Intriguing. Thanks for your comment, and good casting and sizing to ya..
morespamfortom-A gun writer by the name of John Lachuk wrote many years ago about lubing cast bullets and when he got lube into the crimping groove he said he didn't mind because "it got lube up front...where it counts", or did he say "It's what's up front that counts" - something like that. Thanks for noticing that, but since John's article, I never paid that any mind. A quick twirl on an old towel and rounds are ready to go...best regards.
dfanman1-Neat setup you have there, I just have mine plugged into a separate power strip with an on off button. When I don't want heat, I turn the strip off-yours is definitely more precise. The machine takes a long time to heat or cool so we have to stay ahead of it with either power arrangement. I'm going to make a Facebook page in the very near future, but my e-mail is in disarray at this time-I'm constantly behind on it. Right now, I'm on this channel like others spend on FB-best here..
Wow I bought one of those Presses,? In the early 70's When I bought my S&W Model 29 Pistol.? I had access to very large loads of pure Linotype Lead, from Printing Shops, that I knew back then.? I cast Thousands of the Keith Bullets & Lub them in that Press,? Then I rolled them into a can of Motor Mica,? To coat the bullets even better.? I have taken my share of Whitetails.? Over the years using that Pistol & Those cast Bullets even today.? When I am out hunting.? I haven't cast in years any more .? But I have enough Bullets made to hand down to my Boys etc.? I enjoyed your video very much.? It brought back some great memories for me,? Doing those Hot Lead Bullets.? That way.? Wish they made that Hot plate back then.? But I had to deal with those hard Wax Sticks by hand.?
+A REDTAIL -- Those Keith bullets and the M29 go together like bread and butter...Glad the video took you onto a little jaunt down memory lane... Have a great day, FC
magana559-Always great to hear from you-It's a fine machine for sure, but be sure to use the 45/45/10 system whenever your molds allow you, because the time and money savings is stupendous. Currently, my definition of a Sweet Spot Bullet has been expanded to include mold drop at proper diameter to allow the tumble lubing and no sizing.. but I still do run my RCBS whenever I do need to size .Best Regards...
magana559 The Star is the Cadillac of sizer lubricators --- they aren't easy to find. Even if you go ahead and use a sizer-lubricator, some casters also tumble lube the bullets for additional lube protection - called double lubing - especially good when we are trying to push the velocity envelope on our cast loads … Best to ya.
geodiver88-you might be in very good luck-bore diameter of your rifle may be .321 and if so, you can lube them with Lee Liquid Alox and load 'em as cast. If they shoot well, you are in business. If not, slug your barrel to determine bore - then you will need bullet .001 larger.You can actually cast bullets a little larger from your mold if you go to a harder alloy (add antimony and a little more tin). You probably still will not need to size them, but you will need to lube them. Good question
geodiver88-Thanks to your encouragement and the comments of others, I'll keep doing them and see if we can stir up some real good interchange. Information is king and is what the Tube is all about. Commenters like you are the ones driving the Tube. If you all vote no to a poster, we have to get the message (and go away). Best regards to ya...
My question will tell you how inexperienced I am in the world of casting. I have been reloading for a couple of years and have been accumulating lead and wheel weights. I did cast some ingots and although then didn’t look like works of art, they will serve their purpose. My question is on making a decision on what Lube system to use. I am torn between pan Lube, tumble Lube, powder coating or an auto Lube system. To make matters worse, I have 4 Lee molds and one of them is a TL tumble Lube style mold. Powder coat or tumble Lube seems the only ones that will handle my molds, although I am not going to let the price of a 2 cavity Lee mold affect my decision. I am only doing 9mm and .380 ACP. So, a couple of questions. Can I pan Lube or RCBS Luber a bullet that is molded to Tumble Lube work? I think I know the answer but not sure. Also, if I tumble Lube I am pretty sure I can use any type of cast Bullet, but do I resize after tumble lubing? I am really confused on what to do.
Richard Venneman: you would need to have your bullets sized before lubing and or powder coating. The rage these days seems to be PC, and would work well for the automatic calibers you have listed, tumble lubing would also work but will leave the bullets greasier. If your bullets have definitive lube grooves, the method shown in the video would work as well. Hope that helps...
As always, your videos are very educational and inspirational. As you may recall I am getting into casting "opposed to the disgustingly expensive swagging". Every place I have looked for an rcbs lube-a-matic is sold out and backordered. Being I couldnt wait I ended up purchasing a Lyman 4500 "thats the new one" which has the heating element rod inside secured with a hex bolt. My question to you, because you are much more experienced, should of waited and got the rcbs or do you recommend the lyman to be good enough. I want something accurate and dependable. " BTW, studying the Seaco which looks nice, is not only back ordered as well, uses different top punches that screw in, and while you can use top punches for rcbs and lyman from bullets cast from Seaco molds, if you use a lyman or rcbs mold Seaco doesnt really have a cross reference top punch number to use. I have called Redding and talked to their tech about this who confirmed this. However, there is a man who sells Seaco dummy top punches that screw in, but the punch part is hollowed to put in an rcbs/lyman top punch then set screw to secure in just in case your interested to know and being your teaching us maybe to add to help guide others who your teaching on line who may own a Seaco. towards the bottom with a photo link for about $20 www hollowpointmold com/specialty-screws Anyway, sorry to be long winded but my main question was about , should I of waited for the rcbs or do you think the lyman will be just as good? Thanks in advance for your input and again thank you for the videos!
Added, here is a direct link to the Seaco top punches that will allow you to use rcbs/lyman top punches on a seaco hollowpointmold com/viewimage/?image=/specialty-screws/pictures/10.jpg
Thank you very much.. Glad to be allowed to hang out and learn new stuff.... Quick question : $11.95 for a 5lb pig of 99.9% pure lead.... good deal or no ? Oh, and what tools do I need to swag jackets onto lead bullets ? And um, is the jacket copper or brass ? Thanks ! ! ! Thanks again : )
I´d like to see a video, where you set up the LAM II for a new caliber, beginning with installing the top punch and the sizing die and then adjust the machine for a bullet. Best regards, Ouw.
Ouwkackemann-OK, we'll have to get to work on that one, but you know I've been telling all the shooters that the best way to go is to get your mold dropping bullets at the right size or no more than .001" over so that no sizing is needed, then tumble lube with 45/45/10 system. Lubing 1000 bullets in 10 minutes sure beats running each bullet thru a LAM 2 press - I did that for years - a lot of work would have been saved if I did the 45/45/10. Now shooters like you don't have to bother with all that grease and toil...
FortuneCookie45LC Hey 45LC! Unfortunately my mold doesn´t drop that precise (yes, right now I just have one, others will follow. It is a Lyman 460, a 200gr. SWC - mold for the .45 ACP. I have dias between .451 and .4535, the bullets are not round. So I think I have to size, don´t I? What do you mean with the 45/45/10 - system, haven´t heard that yet.
Ouwkackemann Yes, I know that mold - It is one of the classic target bullets for 45ACP (can be used also for 45LC); the other classic one is the H & G 200 SWC (has long nose and shoulder). When you ask if you need to size, you have to mike your bullet - if your bullets measure .452-453, you probably don't need to size them. They should work just fine -just 45/45/10 'em load 'em and shoot 'em. Doesn't matter if they are not perfectly round. If the loads chamber and feed without sizing, you are in business. If they do not chamber or if they are overlarge on drop, then you need to size them. Please check out my videos on "The No Barrel Leading Policy" and do the search for 45/45/10 for more information - you will save LOTS of time. Best to ya...
FortuneCookie45LC Thanx man! I´ve watched your recommended videos. Great stuff, although my LAM II came yesterday by UPS. : ) I will give it a try, that´s really a lot of time to save if it works. Think I will do a comparison between both kinds of lubricating and sizing / not sizing. Best regards and wishes, Ouw. =0 )
Ouwkackemann The LAM2 is a fine machine - I enjoy using mine with many of the commercial lubes (the Lyman NRA formula 50/50 beeswax/Alox works very well) or homemade lubes (nice because no heater is needed and no leading problems - less expensive) and seating GCs as needed. I can do a rate of 900 an hour at peak speed. I read in cast bullet articles of the past that the best accuracy was achieved when we did not have to size bullets (achieved when molds drop bullets at the diameters we want), but in my own smaller sample testing, it seemed I got better accuracy from sized compared to unsized bullets. So my conclusion has always been that either way, our guns can shoot all the accuracy we can normally use. Having the LAM2 will give you the option to size bullets nicely when sizing is required - like when you 45 mold drops bullets at 454-4545 and you want 452. It will do a better job than the Lee push thru dies will do... Best Regards...
Looks so much nicer than tumble lubed, but, obviously it's cost you more time and money! Any difference in performance? Thanks for the informative video!
+PhillsGarage -- Traditional cast bullets have wide and deep grease grooves for the application of lubes. Lubing these bullets using sizer lubricators is the traditional way to lube traditional cast bullets. Another way is to pan lube - and the only way pan lubing works is if the grooves are deep and wide (I strongly urge shooters not to bother with pan lubing - very messy, and pans all over the place including the frig + inconsistent results). Back in the late 60s early 70s, Richard Lee came up with Tumble Lube design bullets (many small shallow grooves) and liquid Alox. All the tumble lube systems sprang from this including the excellent 45/45/10. Both systems are effective in leading prevention. The TL designs also featured no need to size the cast bullets most of the time - a tremendous savings in time and effort. No performance advantages have been determined one system over the other - if there were, shooters would have shunned the inferior system. However, the powder coating systems now offer leading prevention, increased safety from lead exposure, lower smoke and better or worse accuracy as determined by individual gun testing. I have videos up on all of this... Best Regards, FC
+FortuneCookie45LC thank for your answer, as I'm sure you have guessed I am just getting in to reloading, and your channel, advice and knowledge has been a great help... Thank you
As usual, any time I need information or informed opinions on reloading cast bullets....there you are, first in the search! So tumble lubing is as effective as using a lube press just sloppy looking? I've been tumble lubing but thought that because the grooves aren't filled, I may be damaging the barrels. I can live with the "dirty" look as long as I'm not damaging the lands and grooves. So in your opinion as far as functionality is concerned tumble lubing is safe for the firearms? Thanks for all the advice currently and in the past.
hokanut - I used the traditional sizer lubricator for over 30 years. Pan lubing was messy and time sensitive. Did not want to try the tiny groove bullets with tumble lube for the same reasons you bring out. "Couldn't possibly work as well as that nice lube in those big grease grooves!! And that Alox looks horrible and so sticky!!" But finally got a TL mold from Lee and used the 45/45/10 lube system. All problems solved. 10 minutes total time to lube 1000 cast bullets. And no sizing needed with most TL molds!! I think of all the time I spent with lube-sizers (actually wore out a Lyman 450!!) and would just tell shooters / casters to get the TL molds and 45/45/10 'em - load 'em and shoot 'em - then smile, You're on Candid Camera!! Best Regards
Frank Vitelli - The RCBS LAM2 also takes Lyman size dies - but neither company makes a .433" sizer. (Lee does not make a push through in .433 either.) And enlarging is not as easy as with the Lee push through size dies. Lee will make a custom size die to you for a nominal cost, however. Good reloadin' to ya, FC Steve
AirGunWarriors - The best is if your mold drops bullets the diameter you need so no sizing is necessary. The Lee TL (Tumble Lube) mold designs do that as a rule. Other molds cast bullets big so you can resize them to what you want. Unfortunately, bullet sizing can practically be done only two ways - 1) commercial sizer lubricator presses made by Lyman, RCBS, SAECO and Star, 2) Lee sizer kits for use in regular reloading presses. And yes, I have videos on use of sizer lubricators - mine is the RCBS. Best Regards and Happy Holidays
FortuneCookie45LC Sounds good, thanks for the reply!:) I have the LEE .358, 105-grain mold on the way and the LEE .357 sizing kit with the LEE single stage press. I'm going to use the JPW method I learned from watching one of your videos as my sizing lube, as I do not want any tackiness nor a hard shell on the ammo after sizing. Bummer, because I'll now have two bottles of LEE liquid Alox collecting dust. I have a large tin of JPW though and it will get used. Just wondering if I should boil off the petroleum ingredients out of the JPW? Thanks again FCLC45, AGW.:-)
AirGunWarriors The JPW only lube is good for cowboy loads and light standard velocity only. The 45/45/10 system has been so effective for me, that I just use it now to lube cast bullets whenever I can. Note the 45 JPW is not boiled off - no need to do that. Best Regards and Happy Holidays
Hi FortuneCookie45LC. Could I realize 6.5mm powder coated casts without lube with this press? I would use Lee bullet sizer but it is unavailable for 6.5mm casts. Thank you for your knowledge.
incoldblooderz - You can lube 1000 bullets with a tube of lube. Depends on the size of the bullet though, small bullets take less lube. If we pressurize the lube by turning the lube handle, that pressure will maintain until enough bullets go through receiving the lube... Best to ya, FC
Edward Jimenez - Sorry to report that you have to buy the sizing dies separately. The Lee sizing kits require nothing extra to size cast bullets. Best to ya, FC Steve
Good questions. You can load bullets right out of the sizer lubricator if desired. It only gets warm. And now with the 45/45/10 tumble lube system, I'll be using the sizer-lubricator much less often (still using for gas check seating, and also for sizing when necessary)
I have a question. I have a box of Hornady 180 gr. XTP 38 cal. bullets but can't find any reloading data for them. I use Unique, 2400, and Bullseye powder. Can you help me?
Danny For 180gr XTP Hornady 10th edition for 2400- start at 10.3gr. Max is 12.6gr. Lyman 50th edition says for 2400- start at 10gr. Max is 12.6gr. Alliant 2400 is Magnum propellant. I run Hodgdon H110 and Accurate No.9. I recommend buying as many reloading manuals as your budget allows. Gun guides are reasonable alternative($10-$15). Lyman prints a smaller Popular Revolver Calibers booklet. Check out ebay and your local gun shops for decent used manuals. Don't rely on internet for reliable data. ALWAYS start low and slowly work up... and NEVER exceed Maximum! Enjoy
Hello Fortunecookie I’m new to reloading and I was wondering if you would be interested in getting rid of that 450 luber sizer that’s got the cracked handle ?
dfanman1 reply2- if you use my mod on RN - you get a tiny consistent FN on your RN - looks fine (I do have a 2 cavity Lee RN 45 acp bullet mold). Best Regards...
Andreas191280-Strictly trial and error - there is a stop adjustment on the bottom of the press. Idea is to put the bullet far enough into the die to allow lube to fill all the grease grooves, but not the crimping groove. Great question...
FortuneCookie, I ask this because I have beehives on my farm, so I have ready acces to plenty of beeswax. Can beeswax be used by itself as a lube? If not, is there a way to mix the Alox and beeswax together yourself?
tykenekwright- Thanks for your comment and questions…Beeswax has been the traditional base bullet lube for 50+ years. The old NRA formula is 50-50 alox beeswax. Yes, you can mix it yourself- you just need a container, heat and a mixing spoon. Alox available from White Label and from Lee. But White Label is less expensive. But check the 45/45/10 system - when you can use it - it is the fastest, easiest and effective lube system there is… Best Regards...
Crabby Old Warrior - Fine - I load the NOE heavy 45/70 bullet (pointed). Just use the corresponding nose punch for that pointed bullet... Works great...Best to ya, FC Steve
And saving TONS of money while doing it. I don't know how you see these anti reloading and bullet casting people afford to exclusively shoot only factory ammo. That would be very expensive and cost prohibitive in a hurry.
Hi Mr. FC, just want to thank you for this video. Recently, I just started shooting cast bullets through my Ruger SRH 454. I'm shooting 45 Colt loads using 255 gr LSWC bullets. The bore leaded horribly. My cylinder throats measured .4555. I called one my my bullet casting sources & they told me I could could order their unsized bullets and just size & lube the bullets myself. By doing this they said I can get to .455. Assuming I eventually get all the equipment needed to do this, would a .455 bullet work my starline 45 colt brass too much? According to reports in the Rugerforum.net, these SRH have these larger throat sizes due to the high pressures of the 454 casull. Would you have any other advise for me in order to deal with this issue? Thanks in advance.
walnutrd - Sorry to tell you this, but your big Ruger was designed to shoot jacketed bullets first and foremost. But heavy cast lead penetrators will also be used - with gas checked lead bullets. Those big cylinder throats will indeed lead a lot with any cast bullet loads if more than a couple of cylinderful are shot. If only a few rounds are fired in hunting situations, leading is not a problem. As you have found, shooting a lot of 45 Colt lead will be a problem...That is because most 45 Colt lead bullets are .452" and that means you are getting gas blow by right at the cylinder throat. That gas is cutting your bullets and lead deposition in the forcing cone and barrel will result. You need bullets at .4565 - .457" to avoid leading. And yes, you will have a bulge in your 454 brass when those are loaded. When you order the unsized bullets, you should ask what diameter they are... you might need to order 45/70 bullets in order to get enough size to do your sizing. Lee makes a .457 Sizer kit - might be perfect for your needs. If you shoot heavy lead in your 454, you really don't need the highest velocity you gun can deliver - the big heavy slugs don't need that to be effective... and for a lot of range work or field practice, that's not needed either. Best to ya, FC
Hello FortuneCookie45LC It has been a few years since we talked last, I have accumulated a lot of lead and made ingots out of them, but not have made any bullets yet because of a lot of things happening in a row which has prevented me from doing so. Do you know where I can get bulk lube sizer dies and top punches for my Lube-a-matic for a good price? I don't care if they are used. And how do I know what top punches will match my bullet molds? I hope all is good with you and love your video's! keep up the good work.
Dan Swanson - Congrats on getting those ingots made...life gets in the way of our shooting and reloading, for sure. All Lyman, SAECO, and RCBS list the top punches for the corresponding cast bullet designs. Lee does not, because Lee expects us to use their sizer dies which happen to not need any top punches...that is a great advantage that I was intending on making a video about - might push that one ahead of the cue, now that I've blown the whistle on it... Best to ya, FC
I have .224 55 grain molds as well as .355 125 grain and so on, is there a chart that I can download or get on the web that would help me get the right top punches so I don't waste money buying the wrong ones?
dfanman1-Thanks for getting back on this - That Red Carnuba is going to be fine - and good price too. As I remember, that lube needs a heater so you are all set with your dimmer. Why don't you go ahead and send it to dynasty8@aol.com, I'll look for it. You don't need to slug revolver barrels, just your auto pistol barrels. Measure the revolver cylinder throats instead - then go .001 over=fine (see The No Barrel Leading Policy). Best Regards...
With Ranier ballistics 45 230 hp's , and zero jhp's about 120 a thousand, I'm not fooling with pistol bullets, however my custom 510 gr spitzer 4570 is well worth the work.
+crusty old fart -- I understand fully about buying bulk cast pistol bullets - When I was competing in the pistol action sports, we had to do a lot of shooting to get ourselves ready for the matches. If time was spent casting, sizing and lubing, would take away from range work (and it actually was work - we'd shoot 100-200 rounds just to test some piece of equipment or shooting technique trying to shave 1-2/10ths off our times). But now, I find a great source of satisfaction shooting a lot of reloads knowing my bullets costs are next to nothing...Time is spent, sure, but money is saved whether or not a lot of shooting is being done... Best to ya, FC
hey im trying to cast some bullets for my 32 win spl but my mold drops them at 321 and they need to be 322 the sizer doesnt make them bigger it makes them smaller right? i need to get a new mold?
If your sizer is too small you can hone the inside very carefully and if done properly it will polish the throat of the die AND open it up .001 or more and you will have a perfect sized die. What you can't do of course is make a die throw smaller sized bullets but it is quite easy to get it to throw larger ones.
ltlemon23 - You need the top punch #374 for your round nose bullet. For your lubrisizer or Lee sizer die kit, the .452" die is what you will need. Good castin' to ya, FC Steve
FortuneCookie45LC I am running the same bullet as you and I noticed that you also are getting lube in the crimp groove! I've been having that problem as well despite having the bottom black screws adjusted as suggested in the manual for my LAM2. Is that something I should be concerned about or no? I've been only sinking mine enough into the sizer to get lubed and as much sized without getting lube in the crimp groove. Thanks, MC
Marcus Cervantes - It your bullet is pushed into the die so that the holes in the die line up with the bullet lube grooves, then the lube will fill the grooves. The sizer-lubricator should work just as in this video. If you are not getting flow of lube to fill the grooves, you might be using a lube that requires a lube heater. Some casters have their machine mounted on a steel plate and then apply an iron to the plate behind the machine to heat the lube. Others use a hair dryer to heat the lube chamber. Or you can get the heater plate already set for the machine as in the video…Good reloadin' to ya...
FortuneCookie45LC I mean I am getting lube in both the lube groove and the crimp groove. Is getting lube in the crimp groove something I should be concerned about? Thanks! And Happy Independence Day!
Marcus Cervantes - Sorry to have misunderstood your question - No problem at all getting lube in the crimping groove - Just go ahead and crimp as you would…Works just fine…Thanks, and best to ya...
jeannie shinneman - Sorry this comment got by me somehow - I've used almost every commercial lube there is, but my homemade lube (video on that is posted) works just as well and is much less expensive. Best Regards...
Mike Landis - That's OK, John Lachuk used to say in his writing that if any lube gets into the crimp groove, it's good because "It's what's up front that counts". Happy Thanksgiving, Steve
cal30m1 - I don't blame the Lyman 450 - lots of sizing of big hard bullets did that...I learned that we should do a two step size in those instances...Have a great day, FC
+Ralph ditore -- Most cast bullet shooters learn that .002" over what we want (for example - we want .452 for 45 Colt - .454 will work readily) works fine. It's when we get .003" over that some will get uncomfortable and decide that sizing is necessary. Some will size .454s t .452. There's nothing wrong with any of this - what Lee also goes to say is "let the gun tell you". If you don't get functioning because the bullets are too big, or you get bad accuracy, then size the bullets. That's why Lee has all those sizing kits ready for us to buy...size 'em as needed. We just don't need to do that anywhere as often as we have done in the past... Best Regards, FC
"Boring".....only a rookie would think that. When you consider how much a box of factory .44 Magnum ammo costs ALL doubts are wiped clean from your mind. Truth be told I don't know how these people that don't reload or don't cast their own bullets afford to shoot much. If you want to shoot a lot and not have to refinance your house THIS is what we do......
Thanks so much. Everyone needs a teacher. The safe occupation of our hobbies depends on it. I hope my support of your hard work helps show my gratitude .. Dr. K
I haven't cast a single bullet so I really appreciate your presentation of all the steps.
Charles Moeller - And there are other ways to size and lubricate cast bullets, like the Lee push through sizer kits - plus the Lee Tumble Lube Molds often require no sizing at all, and the lubing can be done with the simple 45/45/10 system or just plain Lee Liquid Alox... Good shootin' to ya, FC
FortuneCookie. You are the Clark Howard of reloading and gun stuff. Thanks for everything you do!
Good video. I just bought one of these at an estate sale, new in the box, for $20.
Want to sell it? I need to get one.
Thanks for your help. I bought a Lyman 50th edition and a Hornady tenth edition so I now have what you’ve recommended. Thanks again.
I bought the same lube press you have the only mistake I made was trying to feed the lube. I did not know the threads were in reverse so took awhile but hey got it to work. Cool tool keep up the great videos.
gbrinfo-Thanks for the comment and info...great to hear from shooters and enthusiasts on the Continent. Where ever there are shooters, RCBS will serve them well. Best regards to you as one and to France as many...
Thanks for sharing can’t wait tell my rcbs Lube-O-Matic ii comes in. Very helpful information
Your bullets look better when they are lubed than mine do so guess I will need to keep working at it. Seems like my lube is kinda messy and all over the bullet .thanks for your videos lot of knowledge you have to offer.
I Use to get all the free Linotype Lead free from the Print shops I use to repair their Machines years ago, I casted thousands of Bullets amd Fishing Sinkers for friends also, Sadly these old style Print Shops no longer Operate with Lead now that the world of Modern Tec has changed the Printing Industry, It was great while it lasted, Still have some stored away for casting etc.
Hi from france, good job, congratulations . Very interesting video too . Really informative . RCBS is more expensive than the others generally (in france) ; but we have more for the price .
dfanman1-Thanks for the question. I could see myself having a collection of nose punches. But then I did a mod. Since I prefer SWCs in all my revolvers and TCs in all my autos, I get around the nose punch problem by taking a SWC nose punch and flattening it out perfectly square and polishing it. Then the same nose punch is used for all cast bullets even the rifle bullets that are FN. If you use SWC punch for RN, you might get a ring around your RN - not what we want. see2
Thanks for the comment. You've got something there. I listen to ballgames during baseball season.
Steve Oh- Thanks for the questions. If you have to buy the pure lead, that is a good price. My base lead, I get for free - picking up range scrap, and from local dentists using x-ray film ( I ask them to save the lead foils for me=pure lead for free). Free is the best price. You need special dies to swage jackets onto lead cores. And the jackets are usually an alloy of copper and nickel. Have a great day.
After I resized and Lub my bullets I dust them with some Motor Mica, Helps the stickyness also, Etc.
MERSEDES G-Thanks for your good question. There are a number of reasons you don't want pure lead for 9mm. You want an alloy like hardball lead - 2% tin 6-7% antimony. 1) no tin in your alloy = hard to cast good bullets (note shotgun slugs cast fine with pure lead) 2) no antimony in your alloy = soft bullets = autopistol malfunctions 3) no antimony in your alloy = barrel leading and poor accuracy Good shootin' to ya...
Rowan Francis - I subbed your channel because I'd like to see a more detailed vid on your mods. Intriguing. Thanks for your comment, and good casting and sizing to ya..
morespamfortom-A gun writer by the name of John Lachuk wrote many years ago about lubing cast bullets and when he got lube into the crimping groove he said he didn't mind because "it got lube up front...where it counts", or did he say "It's what's up front that counts" - something like that. Thanks for noticing that, but since John's article, I never paid that any mind. A quick twirl on an old towel and rounds are ready to go...best regards.
can you please show us how to install the resizer top and bottom parts an how to install in the lub etc thanks for sharing great info from you etc.
dfanman1-Neat setup you have there, I just have mine plugged into a separate power strip with an on off button. When I don't want heat, I turn the strip off-yours is definitely more precise. The machine takes a long time to heat or cool so we have to stay ahead of it with either power arrangement. I'm going to make a Facebook page in the very near future, but my e-mail is in disarray at this time-I'm constantly behind on it. Right now, I'm on this channel like others spend on FB-best here..
Wow I bought one of those Presses,? In the early 70's When I bought my S&W Model 29 Pistol.? I had access to very large loads of pure Linotype Lead, from Printing Shops, that I knew back then.? I cast Thousands of the Keith Bullets & Lub them in that Press,? Then I rolled them into a can of Motor Mica,? To coat the bullets even better.? I have taken my share of Whitetails.? Over the years using that Pistol & Those cast Bullets even today.? When I am out hunting.? I haven't cast in years any more .? But I have enough Bullets made to hand down to my Boys etc.? I enjoyed your video very much.? It brought back some great memories for me,? Doing those Hot Lead Bullets.? That way.? Wish they made that Hot plate back then.? But I had to deal with those hard Wax Sticks by hand.?
+A REDTAIL -- Those Keith bullets and the M29 go together like bread and butter...Glad the video took you onto a little jaunt down memory lane... Have a great day, FC
+A REDTAIL -- Great work with those Keith bullets!! And thanks for posting your experiences... Best Regards, FC
thanks man, love the videos keep them coming.
great video, im in the market for a sizer and this video made it easy to chose
magana559-Always great to hear from you-It's a fine machine for sure, but be sure to use the 45/45/10 system whenever your molds allow you, because the time and money savings is stupendous. Currently, my definition of a Sweet Spot Bullet has been expanded to include mold drop at proper diameter to allow the tumble lubing and no sizing.. but I still do run my RCBS whenever I do need to size .Best Regards...
FortuneCookie45LC I made the mistake of looking at the star sizer....now I really want one!
I tumble lube now but sometimes the lube runs out on my rifles, I need something that will lube the rifle boolits a bit better.
magana559 The Star is the Cadillac of sizer lubricators --- they aren't easy to find. Even if you go ahead and use a sizer-lubricator, some casters also tumble lube the bullets for additional lube protection - called double lubing - especially good when we are trying to push the velocity envelope on our cast loads … Best to ya.
As of Apr 2020 this video is 7yrs old. With powder coating being So popular...do you find yourself using your lube/sizer more or less?
geodiver88-you might be in very good luck-bore diameter of your rifle may be .321 and if so, you can lube them with Lee Liquid Alox and load 'em as cast. If they shoot well, you are in business. If not, slug your barrel to determine bore - then you will need bullet .001 larger.You can actually cast bullets a little larger from your mold if you go to a harder alloy (add antimony and a little more tin). You probably still will not need to size them, but you will need to lube them. Good question
geodiver88-Thanks to your encouragement and the comments of others, I'll keep doing them and see if we can stir up some real good interchange. Information is king and is what the Tube is all about. Commenters like you are the ones driving the Tube. If you all vote no to a poster, we have to get the message (and go away). Best regards to ya...
Really having a hard time figuring out what top punches to use with my RCBS
My question will tell you how inexperienced I am in the world of casting. I have been reloading for a couple of years and have been accumulating lead and wheel weights. I did cast some ingots and although then didn’t look like works of art, they will serve their purpose.
My question is on making a decision on what Lube system to use. I am torn between pan Lube, tumble Lube, powder coating or an auto Lube system. To make matters worse, I have 4 Lee molds and one of them is a TL tumble Lube style mold.
Powder coat or tumble Lube seems the only ones that will handle my molds, although I am not going to let the price of a 2 cavity Lee mold affect my decision.
I am only doing 9mm and .380 ACP.
So, a couple of questions. Can I pan Lube or RCBS Luber a bullet that is molded to Tumble Lube work? I think I know the answer but not sure. Also, if I tumble Lube I am pretty sure I can use any type of cast Bullet, but do I resize after tumble lubing?
I am really confused on what to do.
Richard Venneman: you would need to have your bullets sized before lubing and or powder coating. The rage these days seems to be PC, and would work well for the automatic calibers you have listed, tumble lubing would also work but will leave the bullets greasier. If your bullets have definitive lube grooves, the method shown in the video would work as well. Hope that helps...
As always, your videos are very educational and inspirational. As you may recall I am getting into casting "opposed to the disgustingly expensive swagging". Every place I have looked for an rcbs lube-a-matic is sold out and backordered. Being I couldnt wait I ended up purchasing a Lyman 4500 "thats the new one" which has the heating element rod inside secured with a hex bolt.
My question to you, because you are much more experienced, should of waited and got the rcbs or do you recommend the lyman to be good enough. I want something accurate and dependable. "
BTW, studying the Seaco which looks nice, is not only back ordered as well, uses different top punches that screw in, and while you can use top punches for rcbs and lyman from bullets cast from Seaco molds, if you use a lyman or rcbs mold Seaco doesnt really have a cross reference top punch number to use.
I have called Redding and talked to their tech about this who confirmed this. However, there is a man who sells Seaco dummy top punches that screw in, but the punch part is hollowed to put in an rcbs/lyman top punch then set screw to secure in just in case your interested to know and being your teaching us maybe to add to help guide others who your teaching on line who may own a Seaco.
towards the bottom with a photo link for about $20
www hollowpointmold com/specialty-screws
Anyway, sorry to be long winded but my main question was about , should I of waited for the rcbs or do you think the lyman will be just as good?
Thanks in advance for your input and again thank you for the videos!
Added, here is a direct link to the Seaco top punches that will allow you to use rcbs/lyman top punches on a seaco
hollowpointmold com/viewimage/?image=/specialty-screws/pictures/10.jpg
Thank you.
dfanman1-no need to keep it short - Have a Great day...
Good work FC! Those alox tumble lube look downright vulgar in comparison 😂
Thank you very much.. Glad to be allowed to hang out and learn new stuff....
Quick question : $11.95 for a 5lb pig of 99.9% pure lead.... good deal or no ?
Oh, and what tools do I need to swag jackets onto lead bullets ?
And um, is the jacket copper or brass ?
Thanks ! ! !
Thanks again : )
I think the Lub was called ALO WAX,? Or something like that.? Some of the cast bullets,? I use to use Gas Checks on also.?
I´d like to see a video, where you set up the LAM II for a new caliber, beginning with installing the top punch and the sizing die and then adjust the machine for a bullet.
Best regards,
Ouw.
Ouwkackemann-OK, we'll have to get to work on that one, but you know I've been telling all the shooters that the best way to go is to get your mold dropping bullets at the right size or no more than .001" over so that no sizing is needed, then tumble lube with 45/45/10 system. Lubing 1000 bullets in 10 minutes sure beats running each bullet thru a LAM 2 press - I did that for years - a lot of work would have been saved if I did the 45/45/10. Now shooters like you don't have to bother with all that grease and toil...
FortuneCookie45LC
Hey 45LC!
Unfortunately my mold doesn´t drop that precise (yes, right now I just have one, others will follow.
It is a Lyman 460, a 200gr. SWC - mold for the .45 ACP.
I have dias between .451 and .4535, the bullets are not round.
So I think I have to size, don´t I?
What do you mean with the 45/45/10 - system, haven´t heard that yet.
Ouwkackemann Yes, I know that mold - It is one of the classic target bullets for 45ACP (can be used also for 45LC); the other classic one is the H & G 200 SWC (has long nose and shoulder). When you ask if you need to size, you have to mike your bullet - if your bullets measure .452-453, you probably don't need to size them. They should work just fine -just 45/45/10 'em load 'em and shoot 'em. Doesn't matter if they are not perfectly round. If the loads chamber and feed without sizing, you are in business. If they do not chamber or if they are overlarge on drop, then you need to size them. Please check out my videos on "The No Barrel Leading Policy" and do the search for 45/45/10 for more information - you will save LOTS of time. Best to ya...
FortuneCookie45LC
Thanx man!
I´ve watched your recommended videos.
Great stuff, although my LAM II came yesterday by UPS. : )
I will give it a try, that´s really a lot of time to save if it works.
Think I will do a comparison between both kinds of lubricating and sizing / not sizing.
Best regards and wishes,
Ouw. =0 )
Ouwkackemann The LAM2 is a fine machine - I enjoy using mine with many of the commercial lubes (the Lyman NRA formula 50/50 beeswax/Alox works very well) or homemade lubes (nice because no heater is needed and no leading problems - less expensive) and seating GCs as needed. I can do a rate of 900 an hour at peak speed. I read in cast bullet articles of the past that the best accuracy was achieved when we did not have to size bullets (achieved when molds drop bullets at the diameters we want), but in my own smaller sample testing, it seemed I got better accuracy from sized compared to unsized bullets. So my conclusion has always been that either way, our guns can shoot all the accuracy we can normally use. Having the LAM2 will give you the option to size bullets nicely when sizing is required - like when you 45 mold drops bullets at 454-4545 and you want 452. It will do a better job than the Lee push thru dies will do... Best Regards...
When it comes to sizing/lubrication, does it cause any problems with the dies or is it the same as just a bare bullet?
Steve Oh - Welcome to the Hot Lead Zone - like your avatar - and good loobin' to ya….
Do all lead cast bullets have to be lubricated? If so, what are the consequences and how bad are they?
Looks so much nicer than tumble lubed, but, obviously it's cost you more time and money! Any difference in performance?
Thanks for the informative video!
+PhillsGarage -- Traditional cast bullets have wide and deep grease grooves for the application of lubes. Lubing these bullets using sizer lubricators is the traditional way to lube traditional cast bullets. Another way is to pan lube - and the only way pan lubing works is if the grooves are deep and wide (I strongly urge shooters not to bother with pan lubing - very messy, and pans all over the place including the frig + inconsistent results). Back in the late 60s early 70s, Richard Lee came up with Tumble Lube design bullets (many small shallow grooves) and liquid Alox. All the tumble lube systems sprang from this including the excellent 45/45/10. Both systems are effective in leading prevention. The TL designs also featured no need to size the cast bullets most of the time - a tremendous savings in time and effort. No performance advantages have been determined one system over the other - if there were, shooters would have shunned the inferior system. However, the powder coating systems now offer leading prevention, increased safety from lead exposure, lower smoke and better or worse accuracy as determined by individual gun testing. I have videos up on all of this... Best Regards, FC
+FortuneCookie45LC thank for your answer, as I'm sure you have guessed I am just getting in to reloading, and your channel, advice and knowledge has been a great help... Thank you
Hi there what is your total length in the 9mm double ridged bullets?
As usual, any time I need information or informed opinions on reloading cast bullets....there you are, first in the search! So tumble lubing is as effective as using a lube press just sloppy looking? I've been tumble lubing but thought that because the grooves aren't filled, I may be damaging the barrels. I can live with the "dirty" look as long as I'm not damaging the lands and grooves. So in your opinion as far as functionality is concerned tumble lubing is safe for the firearms? Thanks for all the advice currently and in the past.
hokanut - I used the traditional sizer lubricator for over 30 years. Pan lubing was messy and time sensitive. Did not want to try the tiny groove bullets with tumble lube for the same reasons you bring out. "Couldn't possibly work as well as that nice lube in those big grease grooves!! And that Alox looks horrible and so sticky!!" But finally got a TL mold from Lee and used the 45/45/10 lube system. All problems solved. 10 minutes total time to lube 1000 cast bullets. And no sizing needed with most TL molds!! I think of all the time I spent with lube-sizers (actually wore out a Lyman 450!!) and would just tell shooters / casters to get the TL molds and 45/45/10 'em - load 'em and shoot 'em - then smile, You're on Candid Camera!! Best Regards
what brand of Lub stick Are you using in your RCBS Lub press.
Very educational for beginners like myself Thank You .... is it possible to size 433" in the Rcbs luberisizer does Rcbs sell the Die ?
Frank Vitelli - The RCBS LAM2 also takes Lyman size dies - but neither company makes a .433" sizer. (Lee does not make a push through in .433 either.) And enlarging is not as easy as with the Lee push through size dies. Lee will make a custom size die to you for a nominal cost, however. Good reloadin' to ya, FC Steve
FCLC45, do you have a video that shows proper bullet sizing steps and procedures for those that do not have an automatic lubrisizer? Thanks, AGW.
AirGunWarriors - The best is if your mold drops bullets the diameter you need so no sizing is necessary. The Lee TL (Tumble Lube) mold designs do that as a rule. Other molds cast bullets big so you can resize them to what you want. Unfortunately, bullet sizing can practically be done only two ways - 1) commercial sizer lubricator presses made by Lyman, RCBS, SAECO and Star, 2) Lee sizer kits for use in regular reloading presses. And yes, I have videos on use of sizer lubricators - mine is the RCBS. Best Regards and Happy Holidays
FortuneCookie45LC Sounds good, thanks for the reply!:) I have the LEE .358, 105-grain mold on the way and the LEE .357 sizing kit with the LEE single stage press. I'm going to use the JPW method I learned from watching one of your videos as my sizing lube, as I do not want any tackiness nor a hard shell on the ammo after sizing. Bummer, because I'll now have two bottles of LEE liquid Alox collecting dust. I have a large tin of JPW though and it will get used. Just wondering if I should boil off the petroleum ingredients out of the JPW? Thanks again FCLC45, AGW.:-)
AirGunWarriors The JPW only lube is good for cowboy loads and light standard velocity only. The 45/45/10 system has been so effective for me, that I just use it now to lube cast bullets whenever I can. Note the 45 JPW is not boiled off - no need to do that. Best Regards and Happy Holidays
Hi FortuneCookie45LC. Could I realize 6.5mm powder coated casts without lube with this press? I would use Lee bullet sizer but it is unavailable for 6.5mm casts. Thank you for your knowledge.
How many bullet can you made with one tube?
if you turn more the tube press you loose lubrification or come back in the tube?
thank you so much
incoldblooderz - You can lube 1000 bullets with a tube of lube. Depends on the size of the bullet though, small bullets take less lube. If we pressurize the lube by turning the lube handle, that pressure will maintain until enough bullets go through receiving the lube... Best to ya, FC
Will these run well in a bullet feeder on a progressive press?
So does it comes with different sizing dies or do you have to buy them?
Edward Jimenez - Sorry to report that you have to buy the sizing dies separately. The Lee sizing kits require nothing extra to size cast bullets. Best to ya, FC Steve
FortuneCookie45LC thank you! One can only dream I guess
How long do you have to wait before the lube is ready to use? How hot does the sizer get?
Good questions. You can load bullets right out of the sizer lubricator if desired. It only gets warm. And now with the 45/45/10 tumble lube system, I'll be using the sizer-lubricator much less often (still using for gas check seating, and also for sizing when necessary)
I have a question. I have a box of Hornady 180 gr. XTP 38 cal. bullets but can't find any reloading data for them. I use Unique, 2400, and Bullseye powder. Can you help me?
Danny
For 180gr XTP Hornady 10th edition for 2400- start at 10.3gr.
Max is 12.6gr.
Lyman 50th edition says for 2400- start at 10gr.
Max is 12.6gr.
Alliant 2400 is Magnum propellant. I run Hodgdon H110 and Accurate No.9.
I recommend buying as many reloading manuals as your budget allows. Gun guides are reasonable alternative($10-$15). Lyman prints a smaller Popular Revolver Calibers booklet. Check out ebay and your local gun shops for decent used manuals.
Don't rely on internet for reliable data.
ALWAYS start low and slowly work up... and NEVER exceed Maximum!
Enjoy
Hello Fortunecookie I’m new to reloading and I was wondering if you would be interested in getting rid of that 450 luber sizer that’s got the cracked handle ?
I could bend it back into shape and MIG weld that sucker back together no problem!
dfanman1 reply2- if you use my mod on RN - you get a tiny consistent FN on your RN - looks fine (I do have a 2 cavity Lee RN 45 acp bullet mold). Best Regards...
How do you know how far down in the sizer you have to crank the bullets?
Andreas191280-Strictly trial and error - there is a stop adjustment on the bottom of the press. Idea is to put the bullet far enough into the die to allow lube to fill all the grease grooves, but not the crimping groove. Great question...
FortuneCookie, I ask this because I have beehives on my farm, so I have ready acces to plenty of beeswax. Can beeswax be used by itself as a lube? If not, is there a way to mix the Alox and beeswax together yourself?
tykenekwright- Thanks for your comment and questions…Beeswax has been the traditional base bullet lube for 50+ years. The old NRA formula is 50-50 alox beeswax. Yes, you can mix it yourself- you just need a container, heat and a mixing spoon. Alox available from White Label and from Lee. But White Label is less expensive. But check the 45/45/10 system - when you can use it - it is the fastest, easiest and effective lube system there is… Best Regards...
How does his excellent device handle cast bullets with pointed ends?
Crabby Old Warrior - Fine - I load the NOE heavy 45/70 bullet (pointed). Just use the corresponding nose punch for that pointed bullet... Works great...Best to ya, FC Steve
when I'm reloading I find it anything but boring. The very fact that I'm loading for accuracy and paying strict attention to detail is paramount .
And saving TONS of money while doing it. I don't know how you see these anti reloading and bullet casting people afford to exclusively shoot only factory ammo. That would be very expensive and cost prohibitive in a hurry.
Hi Mr. FC, just want to thank you for this video. Recently, I just started shooting cast bullets through my Ruger SRH 454. I'm shooting 45 Colt loads using 255 gr LSWC bullets. The bore leaded horribly. My cylinder throats measured .4555. I called one my my bullet casting sources & they told me I could could order their unsized bullets and just size & lube the bullets myself. By doing this they said I can get to .455.
Assuming I eventually get all the equipment needed to do this, would a .455 bullet work my starline 45 colt brass too much?
According to reports in the Rugerforum.net, these SRH have these larger throat sizes due to the high pressures of the 454 casull.
Would you have any other advise for me in order to deal with this issue? Thanks in advance.
walnutrd - Sorry to tell you this, but your big Ruger was designed to shoot jacketed bullets first and foremost. But heavy cast lead penetrators will also be used - with gas checked lead bullets. Those big cylinder throats will indeed lead a lot with any cast bullet loads if more than a couple of cylinderful are shot. If only a few rounds are fired in hunting situations, leading is not a problem. As you have found, shooting a lot of 45 Colt lead will be a problem...That is because most 45 Colt lead bullets are .452" and that means you are getting gas blow by right at the cylinder throat. That gas is cutting your bullets and lead deposition in the forcing cone and barrel will result. You need bullets at .4565 - .457" to avoid leading. And yes, you will have a bulge in your 454 brass when those are loaded. When you order the unsized bullets, you should ask what diameter they are... you might need to order 45/70 bullets in order to get enough size to do your sizing. Lee makes a .457 Sizer kit - might be perfect for your needs. If you shoot heavy lead in your 454, you really don't need the highest velocity you gun can deliver - the big heavy slugs don't need that to be effective... and for a lot of range work or field practice, that's not needed either.
Best to ya, FC
Hello FortuneCookie45LC It has been a few years since we talked last, I have accumulated a lot of lead and made ingots out of them, but not have made any bullets yet because of a lot of things happening in a row which has prevented me from doing so. Do you know where I can get bulk lube sizer dies and top punches for my Lube-a-matic for a good price? I don't care if they are used. And how do I know what top punches will match my bullet molds? I hope all is good with you and love your video's! keep up the good work.
Dan Swanson - Congrats on getting those ingots made...life gets in the way of our shooting and reloading, for sure. All Lyman, SAECO, and RCBS list the top punches for the corresponding cast bullet designs. Lee does not, because Lee expects us to use their sizer dies which happen to not need any top punches...that is a great advantage that I was intending on making a video about - might push that one ahead of the cue, now that I've blown the whistle on it... Best to ya, FC
I have .224 55 grain molds as well as .355 125 grain and so on, is there a chart that I can download or get on the web that would help me get the right top punches so I don't waste money buying the wrong ones?
Will done t hanks
David Gillham And I appreciate you taking the time to post...Have a great day
dfanman1-Thanks for getting back on this - That Red Carnuba is going to be fine - and good price too. As I remember, that lube needs a heater so you are all set with your dimmer. Why don't you go ahead and send it to dynasty8@aol.com, I'll look for it. You don't need to slug revolver barrels, just your auto pistol barrels. Measure the revolver cylinder throats instead - then go .001 over=fine (see The No Barrel Leading Policy). Best Regards...
With Ranier ballistics 45 230 hp's , and zero jhp's about 120 a thousand, I'm not fooling with pistol bullets, however my custom 510 gr spitzer 4570 is well worth the work.
+crusty old fart -- I understand fully about buying bulk cast pistol bullets - When I was competing in the pistol action sports, we had to do a lot of shooting to get ourselves ready for the matches. If time was spent casting, sizing and lubing, would take away from range work (and it actually was work - we'd shoot 100-200 rounds just to test some piece of equipment or shooting technique trying to shave 1-2/10ths off our times). But now, I find a great source of satisfaction shooting a lot of reloads knowing my bullets costs are next to nothing...Time is spent, sure, but money is saved whether or not a lot of shooting is being done... Best to ya, FC
hey im trying to cast some bullets for my 32 win spl but my mold drops them at 321 and they need to be 322 the sizer doesnt make them bigger it makes them smaller right? i need to get a new mold?
If your sizer is too small you can hone the inside very carefully and if done properly it will polish the throat of the die AND open it up .001 or more and you will have a perfect sized die. What you can't do of course is make a die throw smaller sized bullets but it is quite easy to get it to throw larger ones.
Going to size and lube 45 acp round nose from Lee 6 cavity mold from Midway. What die and top ouch do you recommend?
ltlemon23 - You need the top punch #374 for your round nose bullet. For your lubrisizer or Lee sizer die kit, the .452" die is what you will need. Good castin' to ya, FC Steve
FortuneCookie45LC I am running the same bullet as you and I noticed that you also are getting lube in the crimp groove! I've been having that problem as well despite having the bottom black screws adjusted as suggested in the manual for my LAM2. Is that something I should be concerned about or no? I've been only sinking mine enough into the sizer to get lubed and as much sized without getting lube in the crimp groove.
Thanks,
MC
Marcus Cervantes - It your bullet is pushed into the die so that the holes in the die line up with the bullet lube grooves, then the lube will fill the grooves. The sizer-lubricator should work just as in this video. If you are not getting flow of lube to fill the grooves, you might be using a lube that requires a lube heater. Some casters have their machine mounted on a steel plate and then apply an iron to the plate behind the machine to heat the lube. Others use a hair dryer to heat the lube chamber. Or you can get the heater plate already set for the machine as in the video…Good reloadin' to ya...
FortuneCookie45LC I mean I am getting lube in both the lube groove and the crimp groove. Is getting lube in the crimp groove something I should be concerned about? Thanks! And Happy Independence Day!
Marcus Cervantes - Sorry to have misunderstood your question - No problem at all getting lube in the crimping groove - Just go ahead and crimp as you would…Works just fine…Thanks, and best to ya...
FortuneCookie45LC Just seen your response, thanks a bunch FC! Good to hear!
How can I get a ..500 to .496
CAN I ASK YOU WHAT YOU USE FOR LUBE I KNOW YOU SAID THAT YPOU USE HOMEMADE LUBE THANK YOU
jeannie shinneman - Sorry this comment got by me somehow - I've used almost every commercial lube there is, but my homemade lube (video on that is posted) works just as well and is much less expensive. Best Regards...
?? can i cast my 9mm wit pure lead
YOU do know that you lubed the CRIMP RING!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mike Landis - That's OK, John Lachuk used to say in his writing that if any lube gets into the crimp groove, it's good because "It's what's up front that counts". Happy Thanksgiving, Steve
I wear rubber gloves to protect myself from possible lead poisoning.
Wow, I am surprised by that vintage Lyman sizing unit. That was an extremely poor design with that failure.
cal30m1 - I don't blame the Lyman 450 - lots of sizing of big hard bullets did that...I learned that we should do a two step size in those instances...Have a great day, FC
.003 over is fine per Lee.
+Ralph ditore -- Most cast bullet shooters learn that .002" over what we want (for example - we want .452 for 45 Colt - .454 will work readily) works fine. It's when we get .003" over that some will get uncomfortable and decide that sizing is necessary. Some will size .454s t .452. There's nothing wrong with any of this - what Lee also goes to say is "let the gun tell you". If you don't get functioning because the bullets are too big, or you get bad accuracy, then size the bullets. That's why Lee has all those sizing kits ready for us to buy...size 'em as needed. We just don't need to do that anywhere as often as we have done in the past... Best Regards, FC
@@FortuneCookie45LC the throat provides plenty of room to go past .002. AND if you use cowboy dies you're fine
Cookie , i posted a video reply to this , did you see it ??
Audio Books Kills the boredom
"Boring".....only a rookie would think that. When you consider how much a box of factory .44 Magnum ammo costs ALL doubts are wiped clean from your mind. Truth be told I don't know how these people that don't reload or don't cast their own bullets afford to shoot much. If you want to shoot a lot and not have to refinance your house THIS is what we do......
loob !
hahahahaha