Being a tech, it’s hard to find thorough easy follow through videos for removing stuff without all the bs.Thank you so much for posting this man. Got a trans out effortlessly because of this video! 🤘
I work on these for a living. I used a cheap contour gauge to make a sort of wooden cradle that makes the bottom of the 62TE flat, so it isn't constantly fighting to fall off the jack and onto your foot. Makes this whole surgery MUCH easier. Good video, thanks.
Excellent video! The best I've seen. Others are removing the strut to spindle bolts requiring an alignment afterward. In addition I've seen others saying the exhaust manifold must be removed which it clearly doesn't. Thanks again.
I liked the teaching, very clear on how you do this type of job, now I can understand on why it cost to do this , you know what you doing, very good jpb
Nice! used it as reference ; I am removing the whole engine with the transmission attached due to a hydro locked engine, can't turn the crankshaft, but in my case I have removed the whole front of the vehicle and today got the harness off, axles are off, not the intermediate shaft, hope it won't be a problem because those 3 bolts securing it to the block I could only get to 1, my clearance under the car is only 3 feet as my lift is a half lift Max Jax, but thanks to their creeper it is still very nice and relatively comfortable to work under the car, lastly removed the 3 bolts for the back transmission mount now the engine is being held only by the right and left mounts; soon it will be out and I can't wait to open it up and see if I can still use the block; i would like to repair the damage if possible without having to swap the engine with a used one or buying a remanufactured long block, nobody sells just the short block, i am hoping that it would be a bent connecting rod but will know better once opened and go from there.
It will pull apart and the torque converter will stay on the motor. Then unbolt it with a wrench. But I see your problem. Probably not enough room to slide it out with the converter still attached. I haven't had this problem on one of these yet. I would start by breaking it loose so there is some room then try a wrench.
@@mechanicgray by removing the pulley, water pump and all the side of engine may be able to have the space, may need around 6 to 8 inches to be able to which is why everyone yells me I will have to lift the whole assembly out, the engine needs to be stripped to the blocks for repairs anyways so I could try taking it apart while still in the bay but I reckon I am limited to how much space the crankshaft gives me to move it to the left and I think it is not more than few inches, I was hoping I could leave the tranny on, but on the bright side I get to assembly it correctly as you show here and install it as one which some would probably say it is better
Roughly How much does it cost to buy and change a transmission on the dodge vans. I have a 2019 and I am scare it’s going to give out on me because of their reputation so I am thinking of trading it in before it does.
These vans should have had a transmission recall...I've owned probably 20 of them and all of them had shitty transmissions. We use them for work 2008-2020 all junk
@mechanicgray yes sir definitely does, but it did make it 141k without any other hiccup so cant complain too much. Just finished the oil pump in my 04 z71 tahoe🤦 that was no better. Especially compared to the old 350s😅 great video though got a sub & like
Warrenty pull because of NEW Torque Converter failure. 🤦Merch link in description.
Being a tech, it’s hard to find thorough easy follow through videos for removing stuff without all the bs.Thank you so much for posting this man. Got a trans out effortlessly because of this video! 🤘
Hell yeah. That's my goal. 🤘
Agree, thank you.
i must say, this is the cleanest method of removing the axle ive seen. The techs in the other videos always had issues with that axle nut. Good job 🙂
Thank you. Sometimes the axles can be a pain.
Great video, i love the homemade pick from a roof rack
@@tomhughes4980 Thank you. 👍
I work on these for a living. I used a cheap contour gauge to make a sort of wooden cradle that makes the bottom of the 62TE flat, so it isn't constantly fighting to fall off the jack and onto your foot. Makes this whole surgery MUCH easier. Good video, thanks.
Good idea
‘Promasters only!’ click
Great job doing it by yourself & a great video on the process. Enjoy watching a tech who knows his stuff dive into action!
Thank you for watching.
Excellent video! The best I've seen. Others are removing the strut to spindle bolts requiring an alignment afterward. In addition I've seen others saying the exhaust manifold must be removed which it clearly doesn't. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching. 🤘
Good teaching video, I have to do two of them soon, both are my own vehicles.
Thanks. Good luck. If you have questions ask here. 👍
I liked the teaching, very clear on how you do this type of job, now I can understand on why it cost to do this , you know what you doing, very good jpb
Thanks for watching 🤘
Thanks for the video, you convinced me to donate the van 😅
Lol.
Nice! used it as reference ; I am removing the whole engine with the transmission attached due to a hydro locked engine, can't turn the crankshaft, but in my case I have removed the whole front of the vehicle and today got the harness off, axles are off, not the intermediate shaft, hope it won't be a problem because those 3 bolts securing it to the block I could only get to 1, my clearance under the car is only 3 feet as my lift is a half lift Max Jax, but thanks to their creeper it is still very nice and relatively comfortable to work under the car, lastly removed the 3 bolts for the back transmission mount now the engine is being held only by the right and left mounts; soon it will be out and I can't wait to open it up and see if I can still use the block; i would like to repair the damage if possible without having to swap the engine with a used one or buying a remanufactured long block, nobody sells just the short block, i am hoping that it would be a bent connecting rod but will know better once opened and go from there.
If your pulling the whole thing you can prob leave the shaft on the motor till you get it out.
That was a great tutorial. thanks 👍, i have to replace mine so with this video, it will be less complicate.
No problem. You have questions put them here. Good luck.
i decide to push that subscribe button so you get 1000 subs, you deserve it. 👍
Thank you so much.
Great job 👍👍
@@cornell12500 Thank you.
Best ever I seen , dude u great
Thank you!
Did you take off the lower half of the rear motor mount thats on the frame... or just the top that bolts to the trans/motor? Thanks!
I only take out the four bolts that hold it to the trans.
Nice
Hi, can you tell me the bolts torque when i connect the transmission back to the engine. thanks.
I don't know the actual torque. I just tighten them tight.
Awesome!
Thanks for watching. 🤘
Do you have to pre fill the torque converter when installing?
I just pour in a little bit. Doesn't have to be a lot. A few Oz.
So, you need to do all of this to get to the rear main seal...
@@EMonzon Yes
@@mechanicgray that's precisely the reason why I bought blue devil! Ha!!
@@EMonzon Did it work?
@@mechanicgray I'll let you know
@@EMonzon 👍
Do you need to flash or quick learn the van after a trans swap?
Yes. Usually with a scan tool reset the adaptive shifts. There's prob a way to do it without the scan tool also.
How do I separate the transmission from the engine when the engine is hydro locked and cant spin by turning crankshaft?
It will pull apart and the torque converter will stay on the motor. Then unbolt it with a wrench. But I see your problem. Probably not enough room to slide it out with the converter still attached. I haven't had this problem on one of these yet. I would start by breaking it loose so there is some room then try a wrench.
@@mechanicgray by removing the pulley, water pump and all the side of engine may be able to have the space, may need around 6 to 8 inches to be able to which is why everyone yells me I will have to lift the whole assembly out, the engine needs to be stripped to the blocks for repairs anyways so I could try taking it apart while still in the bay but I reckon I am limited to how much space the crankshaft gives me to move it to the left and I think it is not more than few inches, I was hoping I could leave the tranny on, but on the bright side I get to assembly it correctly as you show here and install it as one which some would probably say it is better
Roughly How much does it cost to buy and change a transmission on the dodge vans. I have a 2019 and I am scare it’s going to give out on me because of their reputation so I am thinking of trading it in before it does.
To rebuild the one that's in it around $2500. New one is much more.
@@mechanicgray oh ok thank you for the reply
@@CrazyGadgetGuy No problem 🤘
These vans should have had a transmission recall...I've owned probably 20 of them and all of them had shitty transmissions. We use them for work 2008-2020 all junk
I agree.
What a nightmare 😂 $1500 or 8 hours and $300. Damn near 141k when torque converter gave me po740
Man that sucks. I will never own a Chrysler product.
@mechanicgray yes sir definitely does, but it did make it 141k without any other hiccup so cant complain too much. Just finished the oil pump in my 04 z71 tahoe🤦 that was no better. Especially compared to the old 350s😅 great video though got a sub & like
@@zachhoyt92 🤘