Dave I just found your channel on UA-cam I have to say you are one of the best mechanics out there Straight and to the point in all your videos No bs Subscribed
Great video and well done 👍 I didn't know that I was going to have to remove the large plate to get the pack off from the rear side. Very informative ✌️
Great worksheet. I used it to check all the solenoids. All ohm readings check fine, but I'm still getting P1745. So I guess I'll change the pressure sensor and do a fluid and filter change before I pull the pak out.
Only got 1st and reverse (only good for around town) I hope by watching your great info video I can sort it for cheap and get some more years out of it or maybe just cut my loss and get another vehicle.
Nice video I worked for Chrysler for 11 years and I do remember the Miller transmission simulator sorry to hear that they don't make it anymore in my opinion it was the best way to troubleshoot a transmission . Also glad that you mentioned that doing the test that you are performing does not necessarily mean you going to find the problem because like you said. A solenoid a coil excetera excetera could test good when is actually bad... I also had the terminal test set I had one that was made by Miller somebody stole it now I have the one made by AES wave and one made by electronic specialties keep making the videos and I respect you
I appreciate the videos and time . I don't want automatic transmission in my cars or trucks how ever I like power shift equipment. I heard that a transmission shifted properly till it warmed up and the root cause was the solenoid pack . I been trying to help a friend who's transmission has been going into limt mode ,
Would you say that the solenoid pack causes a majority of P0760 codes coming up? Or would it be mix of PCM or solenoids that cause that code from coming up?
They were the peeling stretch marks on the converter, change the oil pump, converter and filter. but.... now it only goes in reverse, and I have the active code P0871 that you recommend. thank you so much
Hi David. Been using this video for YEARS. Just noticed the chart doesn't show the TCC solenoid, which is pin 3 and should be 4.9 ohm. Helpful for diagnosing the dreaded P0740, which in my experience seems to usually be the converter itself, supported by if the fluid has clutch material in it.
@@adamrichmond495 assuming the code is associated with the function of the pin you are reading, ranges outside the given values would make you suspect that solenoid.
I replaced my it worked.... P0760 (OD selenoid circuit malfunction) tested pin 19 I got 2.4 ohms should be 1.6 ohms.... thank you so much for the info.
I got 1.7 on 19 terminal. On terminal 11,14,15,16&18 did you get 300 ohms or .300-.302?? Decimal makes a big difference don't know if anyone else got similar.
Hi, thank you so much for your videos. my car dodge grand caravan 2016 with 62te transmission worked well without any problem , since 3 days ago, the weather of Toronto was very hot ( near 38 C") and after 30 minutes driving ( especially around noon) there is kicking problem with it. i am wondering if you can help in diagnosing the problem. appreciate in advance
I tested my solenoid pack everything came up normal except for signal pins 11, 14, 15, 16, 18 which should have been 300 Ohms all came up as open lines. This is a pretty strong signal that my solenoid pack is bad however my concern is those pins going bad may have been caused by a problem elsewhere in the system. I'm interested what may have caused to problem and rectifying it before plugging in a good solenoid pack and having it suffer the same fate
Hi David! You explain very well, I would like you to make video about how to change the shift solenoid and transmission fluid pressure sensor and how to do your tests.
I really like how you break everything down. My only concern is that my numbers are coming out higher than what on your sheet on all by at least .3-.4 ohms I’m getting 2.1 and 2.2 ohms on all solenoids and 5.7 ohms on the line pressure solenoid
I’m not going to say I always do.....but I should lol. As a dealer tech you get complacent with common issues on the same product and once you see 4 or more of something you assume it’s always the issue until that one time you get your rear handed to you lol
@@stevetobak579 Yep, all you have to do is take the connector off the front of the transmission and you have access to these pins. You can see the solenoid pack connector on the transmission behind him at the start of the video, right of the dipstick.
Referring to your video. 10:45-10:50...I did the test and all solenoids "ohmed" out fine...but since this isn't conclusively telling me the solenoids are working, is there a way to stimulate the solenoids individually (with the pack in or out of the car) to further test them? Like apply voltage and listen for a "click" or something...? Obviously just trying to do whatever I can to avoid removing and replacing the pack unnecessarily. Thanks. (2015 Chrysler T&C; 62TE; New TC & Flex plate, TCCvalve, Line pressure sensor, Pump, filter...trans shifts & works great except for intermittent stalls at idle when placing in D or R and P. Original issue was a damaged TC. I removed the trans, set up a DIY flush rig with trans out of car and flushed trans and cooler (separately)...installated all new parts, ran for a few miles, then changed fluid again, and changed the TCC Valve again...then did your pack test in the car...now what!!!???) I puchased a pigtail electrical plug and used that to easily conduct the ohm test you described...it made it relatively easy with the trans & pack in the car. Like this: www.amazon.com/NOVAPARTS-Connector-External-Solenoid-05019917AA/dp/B0B1MKDRX5/ref=sr_1_2?crid=19PELF4QCZJI7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.s8JhFVO7jWK50PP2OAy5ksiPHltThc9W7E_3uhiMyvPiyDN4-0apQxGB8dS8mrKnQhtPu5I2sX-m3TfSHigqY4hVuJvW8LhrIEgr_2rW-QnQMIGl0X5vNFdBVNfrOgRlX6SdX7XscGnjlKbXCOfwYSq55JY17k0i7-Uw3nxFkfNg1qbjYA0zC44kX4GBYMaR.Gvdocq0jz2U6LMfh3xh70ul0by-QM8s04EjGz-bhi2w&dib_tag=se&keywords=62TE+pigtail&qid=1721754659&sprefix=62te+pigtail%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-2
Great video i just used it thank you I did the test on mine the dc pressure signal says 301 all the ones that are around 300. 2 also the od pressure signal is 299.8 would tht say its bad because everything else is between 1.2 and 1.4
This is cool and handy, but the solenoid pack is so cheap and easy to do that if I get ANY trans codes other than the pump, I just swap it. So far, in 1.7 million miles spread over 3 Promasters, I’ve had to swap a pack exactly twice. I’ve had to swap one trans pump and one converter (same time on the same trans - not sure which caused the problem but I’m not doing that job twice!). For all the shit people sling about it, the 62TE has been nearly worry free for me.
They are a good trans as long as people keep them serviced. Filter gets clogged and then the pump gets starved and then the clutches get burnt. Change that filter and fluid regularly and you can get great miles out of it for sure.
@@MotorCityMechanic Hot tip for ya David: late model 62te use black rtv on the lower pan, but Felpro sells a gasket, presumably for earlier models. Using a gasket instead of rtv saves probably 20+ minutes on a fluid service, and another 10 the next time you do it.
I have a 2010 62te occasionally we'll go into limp mode and gives an intermittent speed sensor code I think po937 ( I think) maybe it is an intermittent speed shaft input. And incorrect gear ratio it only happens when I am coming to a coasting stop from say 35 mph to a red light when I let it Coast it will cost down fine no issues but when I go to take off it will be stuck in second AKA lint mode I've done some research and believe it is the transmission range sensor is this a sensor inside of the pack you have here
I need this kit!!! I’ve been making my own leads and it’s a pain and time consuming, and I always wondered if they had something like this! Thanks for video! Also have a 62te I have to diagnose, I had a U/D solenoid circuit issue on a customers car and the dealer said it was a bad pack, swapped it out with a reman Dorman pack and bolted up everything, filled it to proper level and after less then a mile, it went back on limp mode and cel came on. Checked the code and now it only shows the L/R solenoid circuit malfunction. I’m wondering if the pack was faulty. Now after this video, the sheet you provided, and the cool tool you used, I’ll have to diagnose it again with alittle more confidence. I’m leaning that it might be a bad/ faulty reman pack but I’ll just cover the basics with this testing. Thanks again! Keep up the good work!
Dave, Great video, I am hesitant to pull the valve body. Is it possible to purchase a soleniod pack and swap out the soleniods into the existing pack with new O rings? Thanks
First thank you for sharing.... This would have been good to know years ago. We had a Dodge Journey that the electronics in the trans was setting a multiple misfire code. I checked everything on the engine side and finally realized it was from the trans side sending goofy things to the pcm. The original trans shop that did a rebuild on the transmission only had 15k miles but was out of the time warranty. They would only touch it if I opted for a full rebuild again. If I would have know this, I would have checked myself and saved myself some money. Afterwards they told me this that and the other and that the selenoid pack was bad. Afterwards it was what fixed a multiple misfire... who would have thought. Electronics can do weird things.
I have 2012 Town and Country that seems to have some flare shifting between 4-5, and 5-6. Rpm's rise 300-400, but during that raise its still picking up speed. Runs great, no codes engine or tranny. Just started doing it, not sure where to look. Would a solenoid pack possibly take care of the issue?
@@dustinpizzi9349 , I had a transmission shop look at it. They say it's the compounder/underdrive unit. They said that they'd just drive it till it goes. They didn't really say how long it would last.
2012 Volkswagen Routan 182,315 miles, had drove about 250 miles, was sitting at a red light felt like we got hit from rear. Pulled away just fine, got into a parking garage, started to whine, shift funny and slip, parked. Came back in about four hours, started up and seemed to be OK, headed out, after about 45 minutes of city driving, made a hard stop, would not drive forward or reverse. Pushed it into a parking lot. Came back the next day to haul it home, Would back up, but would not drive onto dolly. Checked for codes P0733, P0868, P0841, P083B, P084B, were set. Changed filter and fluid, cleared codes. Will drive ln manual 1 & 2, slips in 3 and stops driving forward, will drive in reverse. If you restart will drive forward until shifts into 3. Code P0733 came back and will not clear with my code reader. Can the solenoids be tested in the transmission? Do the gaskets on the valve body have to be replaced, if solenoids are removed? Is there a pressure test procedure for the 62TE? Thanks for some really good information, great help
2017 Grand Caravan here, my flex plate is cracked at 149,500. Having that replaced, figued while in there I'd have the TSP replaced as well, however i recently was made aware of the TCC, this too should be replaced due to mileage. If there any of solenoids you'd recommend having switched out while the Solenoid Pack and Flex Plates being done?? 🙏 I'm a state certified foster parent, i need this minivan in top notch condition, i should note that tge transmission fluid and filter was replaced 3 months and 10 thousand miles ago. Thank you kindly!
Thanks for this video. Very helpful! I measured the solenoid pack going through all the pins and all the readings were correct. Is it safe to say that my issue is NOT the solenoid pack??? I have a P1745 code and my Grand Caravan is currently in limp mode. Thank you!
Excellent video and super good instruction. Can I verify solenoid operation by applying 12V to it and hear clicking? Or is it not 12V device? Also, is there anyway i can get TCM schematic or anything near? I have 2014 Promaster that drops to neutral while driving then takes 2-3 hours cooling before back to normal. Could that be heat related open circuit somewhere? I can run it normal for about 17 miles before it happens. Thanks in advance
David you are awesome! Our community is grateful to you!
Loved the in-depth explanation. Just downloaded the form and headed out to inspect a grand caravan. Thank you so much!
David you’re the best. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
I am always happy that I have this platform to do that on.
He's really a great instructor also! To the pin point on everything he works on, he explain so you have to overstand.
Dave I just found your channel on UA-cam
I have to say you are one of the best mechanics out there
Straight and to the point in all your videos
No bs
Subscribed
The best teacher on UA-cam
Thank you for taking the time to help people out 👍😁
Appreciate the help just got lemoned on a 2012 journey
This guy is fantastic. I already have the cover off, but going to go through the checklist.
Thanks John! I appreciate you watching
Great point brother just because it checks out dont mean its not bad
Once again. David. An excellent teacher. Thanks.
Great video, David. Very thorough! Thank you.
Many thanks!
Dave, good info as always enjoyable as always. cheeeers
Thanks for always watching
Your blog is great! You make it so easy!! Thank you, keep helping people who don't want to be ripped off anymore.
Brilliant Dave I probably will never do this but really informative and weel presented.
Great video and well done 👍 I didn't know that I was going to have to remove the large plate to get the pack off from the rear side. Very informative ✌️
Great worksheet. I used it to check all the solenoids. All ohm readings check fine, but I'm still getting P1745. So I guess I'll change the pressure sensor and do a fluid and filter change before I pull the pak out.
Did the sensor work and fluid change work?
Very nice!! Appreciate the direction.
Only got 1st and reverse (only good for around town) I hope by watching your great info video I can sort it for cheap and get some more years out of it or maybe just cut my loss and get another vehicle.
Thanks for the video. What are the symptoms of a bad transmission solenoid?
Great work David
Nice video I worked for Chrysler for 11 years and I do remember the Miller transmission simulator sorry to hear that they don't make it anymore in my opinion it was the best way to troubleshoot a transmission . Also glad that you mentioned that doing the test that you are performing does not necessarily mean you going to find the problem because like you said. A solenoid a coil excetera excetera could test good when is actually bad... I also had the terminal test set I had one that was made by Miller somebody stole it now I have the one made by AES wave and one made by electronic specialties keep making the videos and I respect you
Nice chart david
Thank you for the diagram and how to
Oh, GREAT material your putting up :-)
I appreciate the videos and time . I don't want automatic transmission in my cars or trucks how ever I like power shift equipment. I heard that a transmission shifted properly till it warmed up and the root cause was the solenoid pack . I been trying to help a friend who's transmission has been going into limt mode ,
Would you say that the solenoid pack causes a majority of P0760 codes coming up? Or would it be mix of PCM or solenoids that cause that code from coming up?
Good understanding very clear seminars keep more stuff coming .
The AES wave terminal kit is phenomenal, kinda pricey but well worth the money.
how can i obtain one of those solenoid pack schematic ? i do not have the ability to copy it.
Nice video and thanks for your checklist which helped me to check the defective solenoid (Solenoid LC) in my T&C 2008.
They were the peeling stretch marks on the converter, change the oil pump, converter and filter. but.... now it only goes in reverse, and I have the active code P0871 that you recommend. thank you so much
Nevermind, I printed from computer. Thanks for the diagram 🙏🏼
Great info and video pike
Appreciate it my brother!
Dam sir i wish you was my neighbor thank you for what you for us back yard mechanics
You’re da man! Thanks a lot. Very helpful!
Thanks for watching! Make sure to subscribe if you haven’t already
Good job
Appreciate it greatly
Hi David. Been using this video for YEARS. Just noticed the chart doesn't show the TCC solenoid, which is pin 3 and should be 4.9 ohm. Helpful for diagnosing the dreaded P0740, which in my experience seems to usually be the converter itself, supported by if the fluid has clutch material in it.
Mime has 6.0 reading would that be bad
@@adamrichmond495 assuming the code is associated with the function of the pin you are reading, ranges outside the given values would make you suspect that solenoid.
Excellent work
Fantastic diag vid Dave - thanks!
Since you have a few solenoid packs have you tried swapping individual solenoids to make one good solenoid pack?
I replaced my it worked.... P0760 (OD selenoid circuit malfunction) tested pin 19 I got 2.4 ohms should be 1.6 ohms.... thank you so much for the info.
I got 1.7 on 19 terminal. On terminal 11,14,15,16&18 did you get 300 ohms or .300-.302?? Decimal makes a big difference don't know if anyone else got similar.
@@johng8967 on my I got .304 ohms it’s like 300 ohms depends on your meter I selected 2k setting(manual setting)
Pin 11, .304 ohms
Pin12 5.3ohms (200hms setting meter)
All the signal sensors averaged 302 ohms
beautyfull man, i like this dud a lot ,he is great in explaining and details ,he is awesome
Hi, thank you so much for your videos. my car dodge grand caravan 2016 with 62te transmission worked well without any problem , since 3 days ago, the weather of Toronto was very hot ( near 38 C") and after 30 minutes driving ( especially around noon) there is kicking problem with it. i am wondering if you can help in diagnosing the problem. appreciate in advance
Thank you so much for this video. I was hoping there was a DIY way to check my trans issued.
Great video! Thank you
Great info.
I have 3 mini vans but they all have the 41TE.
Might get one in the future ya never know. Thanks
Happy Motoring.
I tested my solenoid pack everything came up normal except for signal pins 11, 14, 15, 16, 18 which should have been 300 Ohms all came up as open lines. This is a pretty strong signal that my solenoid pack is bad however my concern is those pins going bad may have been caused by a problem elsewhere in the system. I'm interested what may have caused to problem and rectifying it before plugging in a good solenoid pack and having it suffer the same fate
Great testing resource. Thanks
Hi David!
You explain very well, I would like you to make video about how to change the shift solenoid and transmission fluid pressure sensor and how to do your tests.
Excellent......thanks to share your knowledge.
You are awesome my friend. Blessings in Christ Jesus!
Awesome video and thanks for the document!
This is outstanding man. Thank you very much.
Thank you David 👍👍. The kit may pay for itself if the solenoid is faulty. Hope I do not need to do this 🙂
Hope you dont either. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the info ! Really helped me.
Always happy to help and appreciate people watching the videos
Great video,thanks Dave!!!
You are welcome
the ted nugent of the torque wrench!
Can you disassemble a new solenoid pack and put the new parts into the existing solenoid pack body?
Hi dav.....great video and great information...but is it the same for dodge charger 2015....thanks again....
Nice video good test leads make life much easier
Very helpful! Thank you! My 2/4 solenoid measured 3.4 Ohms and all others were 1.6 Ohms. This appears to be out of spec. Would you all agree?
Chart great , thank for sharing
Very Helpful! Thank you for making the videos!
I really like how you break everything down. My only concern is that my numbers are coming out higher than what on your sheet on all by at least .3-.4 ohms I’m getting 2.1 and 2.2 ohms on all solenoids and 5.7 ohms on the line pressure solenoid
Thanks for the video, I appreciate it!
Thank you
Your welcome
Proper testing👍
I’m not going to say I always do.....but I should lol. As a dealer tech you get complacent with common issues on the same product and once you see 4 or more of something you assume it’s always the issue until that one time you get your rear handed to you lol
@@MotorCityMechanic i know exactly what u mean🤣🤦♂️
Can you test these with the pack in the transmission still? Appreciate the check list. You are a legend!
Yes please can you?
@@stevetobak579 Yep, all you have to do is take the connector off the front of the transmission and you have access to these pins. You can see the solenoid pack connector on the transmission behind him at the start of the video, right of the dipstick.
Referring to your video. 10:45-10:50...I did the test and all solenoids "ohmed" out fine...but since this isn't conclusively telling me the solenoids are working, is there a way to stimulate the solenoids individually (with the pack in or out of the car) to further test them? Like apply voltage and listen for a "click" or something...? Obviously just trying to do whatever I can to avoid removing and replacing the pack unnecessarily. Thanks.
(2015 Chrysler T&C; 62TE; New TC & Flex plate, TCCvalve, Line pressure sensor, Pump, filter...trans shifts & works great except for intermittent stalls at idle when placing in D or R and P. Original issue was a damaged TC. I removed the trans, set up a DIY flush rig with trans out of car and flushed trans and cooler (separately)...installated all new parts, ran for a few miles, then changed fluid again, and changed the TCC Valve again...then did your pack test in the car...now what!!!???)
I puchased a pigtail electrical plug and used that to easily conduct the ohm test you described...it made it relatively easy with the trans & pack in the car.
Like this:
www.amazon.com/NOVAPARTS-Connector-External-Solenoid-05019917AA/dp/B0B1MKDRX5/ref=sr_1_2?crid=19PELF4QCZJI7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.s8JhFVO7jWK50PP2OAy5ksiPHltThc9W7E_3uhiMyvPiyDN4-0apQxGB8dS8mrKnQhtPu5I2sX-m3TfSHigqY4hVuJvW8LhrIEgr_2rW-QnQMIGl0X5vNFdBVNfrOgRlX6SdX7XscGnjlKbXCOfwYSq55JY17k0i7-Uw3nxFkfNg1qbjYA0zC44kX4GBYMaR.Gvdocq0jz2U6LMfh3xh70ul0by-QM8s04EjGz-bhi2w&dib_tag=se&keywords=62TE+pigtail&qid=1721754659&sprefix=62te+pigtail%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-2
Many Thanks, are you professional real Technicians 🙏👏👍
I have a few of the terminal kits I got them from aeswave
Great video i just used it thank you I did the test on mine the dc pressure signal says 301 all the ones that are around 300. 2 also the od pressure signal is 299.8 would tht say its bad because everything else is between 1.2 and 1.4
This is cool and handy, but the solenoid pack is so cheap and easy to do that if I get ANY trans codes other than the pump, I just swap it.
So far, in 1.7 million miles spread over 3 Promasters, I’ve had to swap a pack exactly twice. I’ve had to swap one trans pump and one converter (same time on the same trans - not sure which caused the problem but I’m not doing that job twice!). For all the shit people sling about it, the 62TE has been nearly worry free for me.
They are a good trans as long as people keep them serviced. Filter gets clogged and then the pump gets starved and then the clutches get burnt. Change that filter and fluid regularly and you can get great miles out of it for sure.
@@MotorCityMechanic Hot tip for ya David: late model 62te use black rtv on the lower pan, but Felpro sells a gasket, presumably for earlier models. Using a gasket instead of rtv saves probably 20+ minutes on a fluid service, and another 10 the next time you do it.
An amazing video
😊
We change a Solenoid an it had no change to the transmision 2012 CARAVAN 16000 KL / an other vid said could be electric box , check with test light
Please do a video of changing a power steering pump from a 2013 Town and Country appreciate thank you so much
I will certainly keep that in mind as a future video.
Great Info
I have a 2010 62te occasionally we'll go into limp mode and gives an intermittent speed sensor code I think po937 ( I think) maybe it is an intermittent speed shaft input. And incorrect gear ratio it only happens when I am coming to a coasting stop from say 35 mph to a red light when I let it Coast it will cost down fine no issues but when I go to take off it will be stuck in second AKA lint mode I've done some research and believe it is the transmission range sensor is this a sensor inside of the pack you have here
David what is the cause of a p1745. Thanks
when taking off the shift solenoid the valvebody came apart and 2 tan balls fell out where do they go ???
I need this kit!!! I’ve been making my own leads and it’s a pain and time consuming, and I always wondered if they had something like this! Thanks for video! Also have a 62te I have to diagnose, I had a U/D solenoid circuit issue on a customers car and the dealer said it was a bad pack, swapped it out with a reman Dorman pack and bolted up everything, filled it to proper level and after less then a mile, it went back on limp mode and cel came on. Checked the code and now it only shows the L/R solenoid circuit malfunction. I’m wondering if the pack was faulty. Now after this video, the sheet you provided, and the cool tool you used, I’ll have to diagnose it again with alittle more confidence. I’m leaning that it might be a bad/ faulty reman pack but I’ll just cover the basics with this testing. Thanks again! Keep up the good work!
Dave, Great video, I am hesitant to pull the valve body. Is it possible to purchase a soleniod pack and swap out the soleniods into the existing pack with new O rings? Thanks
Great video David 👍 is there power to that solenoid pack while it sits on your bench? Thanks
There is no power going to it, he is only measuring the resistance between the numbered leads.
Can you still have a bad solenoid but no check engine light?
you are the best
Do you have a page that shows which wires go to which pins, I think I'll just go to salvage yard and cut a connector off and check it that way ?
Two of them are 300 ohms and the rest are 0.00 and 0.04 and then some of them show 1. And my solenoid pack has gold pins and some silver
Wish you were in the motor city..
First thank you for sharing....
This would have been good to know years ago. We had a Dodge Journey that the electronics in the trans was setting a multiple misfire code. I checked everything on the engine side and finally realized it was from the trans side sending goofy things to the pcm. The original trans shop that did a rebuild on the transmission only had 15k miles but was out of the time warranty. They would only touch it if I opted for a full rebuild again. If I would have know this, I would have checked myself and saved myself some money. Afterwards they told me this that and the other and that the selenoid pack was bad. Afterwards it was what fixed a multiple misfire... who would have thought. Electronics can do weird things.
I have 2012 Town and Country that seems to have some flare shifting between 4-5, and 5-6. Rpm's rise 300-400, but during that raise its still picking up speed. Runs great, no codes engine or tranny. Just started doing it, not sure where to look. Would a solenoid pack possibly take care of the issue?
I'm having the same thing to the T. Did you ever find out what it was ?
@@dustinpizzi9349 , I had a transmission shop look at it. They say it's the compounder/underdrive unit. They said that they'd just drive it till it goes. They didn't really say how long it would last.
Limp mode has never shown up on my 62te and it would shift when first starting it but after that no shift
Good brand caravan 2008 what is a shift solenoid actually do when it goes bad Does it shut down the engine and does it turn on the check engine light
2012 Volkswagen Routan 182,315 miles, had drove about 250 miles, was sitting at a red light felt like we got hit from rear. Pulled away just fine, got into a parking garage, started to whine, shift funny and slip, parked. Came back in about four hours, started up and seemed to be OK, headed out, after about 45 minutes of city driving, made a hard stop, would not drive forward or reverse. Pushed it into a parking lot. Came back the next day to haul it home, Would back up, but would not drive onto dolly. Checked for codes P0733, P0868, P0841, P083B, P084B, were set. Changed filter and fluid, cleared codes. Will drive ln manual 1 & 2, slips in 3 and stops driving forward, will drive in reverse. If you restart will drive forward until shifts into 3. Code P0733 came back and will not clear with my code reader. Can the solenoids be tested in the transmission? Do the gaskets on the valve body have to be replaced, if solenoids are removed? Is there a pressure test procedure for the 62TE? Thanks for some really good information, great help
2017 Grand Caravan here, my flex plate is cracked at 149,500.
Having that replaced, figued while in there I'd have the TSP replaced as well, however i recently was made aware of the TCC, this too should be replaced due to mileage.
If there any of solenoids you'd recommend having switched out while the Solenoid Pack and Flex Plates being done?? 🙏
I'm a state certified foster parent, i need this minivan in top notch condition, i should note that tge transmission fluid and filter was replaced 3 months and 10 thousand miles ago.
Thank you kindly!
HOW DO YOU TEST POSITION SWITCH.WHAT RESISTANCE.
Great info!! Do you know info on checking ohms on 2011 Sonata 2.0 turbo trans solenoid pack?
Awesome write up and this has helped me alot. But how do you measure pin 22 and pin 23. Would they be the same ohms as the rest?
12k
great video, thanks.
Thanks for this video. Very helpful! I measured the solenoid pack going through all the pins and all the readings were correct. Is it safe to say that my issue is NOT the solenoid pack??? I have a P1745 code and my Grand Caravan is currently in limp mode. Thank you!
Excellent video and super good instruction. Can I verify solenoid operation by applying 12V to it and hear clicking? Or is it not 12V device? Also, is there anyway i can get TCM schematic or anything near? I have 2014 Promaster that drops to neutral while driving then takes 2-3 hours cooling before back to normal. Could that be heat related open circuit somewhere? I can run it normal for about 17 miles before it happens. Thanks in advance