Thanks for watching. Subscribe for the next truck video. I'm in the snowmobile mode right now, but my drivers door is next on the agenda for the truck and I'll be starting that very soon.
@@snowking55 Major blunder. We bought it for the engine. Pulled it today to discover it's not even a Chevy, or a Ford, or a Dodge! Got to be looking at Studebaker or IHC next!
Didn't you take pictures of all the mounting hardware before taking it apart? Relying on instructions from the internet can get you in a lot of trouble.
No, one of my big mistakes. I did take a lot of pictures and videos, and I also have a few good contacts that assist me when I get into a problem. But for the most part I figured out where everything goes, these old trucks are not too complicated.
Good to see the cab all washed up and on the frame again. I would think the springs all mount on the bottom. But you can count on it working either way you do it. Keep up the good work Ken
She's coming along George. I've already got some yard drives in just not with the cab on. It might be awhile before I get her running under her own power again, depends on how quickly the cab comes along.
It's starting to look like a truck! The cab mount and spring orientation all looks correct to me according to the original trucks I've seen. Keep up the great work! -Kyle
I also have a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton in similar condition to yours, when you brought her home. But more of a basket case. Someone in the past replaced the engine with a non working1954 235, and in doing so cut up the frame. I am attempting to restore back to original, not show, just drivable. Your videos have helped me tremendously to see what the original truck is suppose to look like. Thank you! Can you tell me where you purchased the cab mount kit?
That's great Joe that you have a '36 also! We can help each other possibly. You can purchase the cab mount kit from a VCCA member, Mike Russell. Email him for the particulars at ml.russell1936@gmail.com. Or Jim Carter Trucks has a kit, but they're more expensive.
There are wood blocks 3/8 thick with pads on each side of wood in two forward holes. Rear hole on each side is springs top side inside also blocks on them fiber on all. Use 3/8 bolts with Nylock nuts.
I purchased a body mount kit from a fella from the VCCA and it came complete with all the bolts, nuts, blocks and pads. So that is what I used, just wasn't exactly sure on the rear mount, but it sounds like I have them installed correctly. Thanks Howard.
I believe I'm going to do some disassembly of the inside of the cab and sandblast the parts and then either epoxy primer or KBS paint them. But Zinc Phosphate is one of the preps for KBS.
Awesome! I have ome of these on a dually frame, an old fire truck that I am converting into a pickup! Your videos are going to be very helpful!
Thanks for watching. Subscribe for the next truck video. I'm in the snowmobile mode right now, but my drivers door is next on the agenda for the truck and I'll be starting that very soon.
It's coming right along. A couple of gallons of rust-oleum paint, and your good to go! : )
Yeah a 5 gallon bucket of red barn paint and it'll be good to go!
I found mine is a 38. All steel cab. Good and solid, but it needs a dash!
I don't recall seeing a video of a 38 Jeff. This 36 cab is pretty solid, just needs a lot of TLC. More videos to come.
@@snowking55 Just got it yesterday. Hugh difference between Ohio solid and Oregon solid!
@@ElderlyIron It's amazing the difference, must be the lack of salt on the roads in Oregon. Looking forward to a video!
@@snowking55 Major blunder. We bought it for the engine. Pulled it today to discover it's not even a Chevy, or a Ford, or a Dodge! Got to be looking at Studebaker or IHC next!
Didn't you take pictures of all the mounting hardware before taking it apart? Relying on instructions from the internet can get you in a lot of trouble.
No, one of my big mistakes. I did take a lot of pictures and videos, and I also have a few good contacts that assist me when I get into a problem. But for the most part I figured out where everything goes, these old trucks are not too complicated.
Looking more like a truck, looking good
The cab definitely makes a difference. Now the body work begins, fun, fun.
It's getting there !
Slow but sure. The major work is about to begin. But a little at a time and I'll get it. Thanks Mark.
Good to see the cab all washed up and on the frame again. I would think the springs all mount on the bottom. But you can count on it working either way you do it. Keep up the good work Ken
Thanks Lloyd. You may be right on the springs, I'll have to take a better look at some pictures I have.
You are getting into it now!. I see a yard drive in your not too distant future. Nothing better to keep the juices flowing.
She's coming along George. I've already got some yard drives in just not with the cab on. It might be awhile before I get her running under her own power again, depends on how quickly the cab comes along.
It's starting to look like a truck! The cab mount and spring orientation all looks correct to me according to the original trucks I've seen. Keep up the great work!
-Kyle
Thanks Kyle, it's been a long time coming to see that cab back on the frame. But my work has just begun. More videos in the future of the progress.
I also have a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton in similar condition to yours, when you brought her home. But more of a basket case. Someone in the past replaced the engine with a non working1954 235, and in doing so cut up the frame. I am attempting to restore back to original, not show, just drivable. Your videos have helped me tremendously to see what the original truck is suppose to look like. Thank you! Can you tell me where you purchased the cab mount kit?
That's great Joe that you have a '36 also! We can help each other possibly. You can purchase the cab mount kit from a VCCA member, Mike Russell. Email him for the particulars at ml.russell1936@gmail.com. Or Jim Carter Trucks has a kit, but they're more expensive.
There are wood blocks 3/8 thick with pads on each side of wood in two forward holes. Rear hole on each side is springs top side inside also blocks on them fiber on all. Use 3/8 bolts with Nylock nuts.
I purchased a body mount kit from a fella from the VCCA and it came complete with all the bolts, nuts, blocks and pads. So that is what I used, just wasn't exactly sure on the rear mount, but it sounds like I have them installed correctly. Thanks Howard.
Lookin good 👍 when your done I have a 1983 escort you can rebuild. Thanks
Okay Marco when I'm done with this project I'll probably be in a nursing home, but I'll get to that escort as soon as I can.
Coat and clean all exposed steel with Zinc Phosphate.
I believe I'm going to do some disassembly of the inside of the cab and sandblast the parts and then either epoxy primer or KBS paint them. But Zinc Phosphate is one of the preps for KBS.
Them doors will give you a hassle just as you get the cab bolted to align the one door the other door wont close. Its a back and forth kinda thing.
I kinda figured that would be how it would go. I'm going to lift them with my engine hoist and try to fit them without using the armstrong method.
Installing these on my 36 right now. You are right, the instructions are off!
Yeah that's why it's good to remember how they came off to begin with or just try to reason how they would fit. Thanks for taking a look.
You will have those doors on and off dozens of times put some oil on the bolts
I know you're right Jim. Those bolts will definitely be greased up and working smoothly.