Absolutely brilliant video Kristen! Thank you for putting them all side by side like that. I'm blown away with the spray paint and the KILZ doing so well.
Excellent video. I personally only use Zinsser B-I-N for these types of applications, it works for me every time and lasts a very long time. Ideal for high traffic applications. By far, the two biggest primer mistakes are -- not prepping the surface correctly and not allowing the primer to dry long enough. You have done a great job showing this on the video. All primers need to dry for at least 24 hours before top coating, to allow it to fully bond to the surface and lock in the stain. For deep stain blocking, I wait 48 hours. Zinsser 1-2-3 like most premium primers, is great for the right application, but like most brands they make false marketing claims on the tin.
OBSERVATION great video. Could you expand to paint over red paint, piece of pine with knots, sap, an already painted piece, and a stain and veneer and on all using 1 coat and then 2 coats. Thanks
This was so eyeopening! I usually go with Zinsser 123 and have had good luck with that with all in one paints, but you've got me thinking I should switch to the Kilz 3 instead. I love BIN but it is so expensive and I'd rather spray a waterbased one. Thanks for doing this!
Just primed some cabinet/bookshelves I had stripped down to bare wood (previously painted over stain) using Killz3. I did thin it with Floetrol (5%-ish) to make it easier to spray with my Graco X5 and it did ok - there is still some bleed-through in spots. I haven't done a second coat yet so hoping what spots did come through are covered up. The biggest negative with it I've found is sanding - Killz3 does not sand well at all. It gums up even days later and remains tacky. I also sprayed a ceiling I had skim-coated and the paint dust from that was horrible. It was sticky and walking on it I had 1/4" of paint build up on the bottom of my shoes. I am planning on putting down hardwood flooring so I have bare subfloor exposed and it was just an absolute mess. Just something to consider.
I have leftover exterior latex waterbased paint I want to use for an outdoor shed, it doesn't need to look crazy nice. What primer would be best for that, w/ a paint sprayer?
Wow great experiment! My go to is always the BIN shellac but now I will try the Kilz 3 for sure. The Rustoleum spray will be handy to have on hand too. Thank you so much for this video. 😊👍
Absolutely!! And the cool thing w Rust-Oleum is that you can find matte/flat in many of their colors so you don't have to spot touch w white if using a darker color
What about 1 coat, then sand, then another coat? Likewise, how do these do when sanded...do they sand clean, gummy or what? Also, spraying these vrs rollering? Do you spray a primer and would it be better or worse? Thanks
Spraying a primer is always better in my book, and yes some of them are gummy when sanding and that is awful!! That's why I still prefer shellac. It isn't gummy
I'm getting ready to paint my granddaughter's Ikea MALM bedroom set. I was having trouble deciding what type of primer to use. Thanks so much for all the input. I'm still laughing about the butter knife stirrers. I only do an occasional project but have found that they wooden craft sticks that look like tongue blades are perfect for stirring the smaller size cans of whatever it is I need to stir. That way you don't waste your longer paint stirrers and if I'm going to reuse them with the same color or product, I just wipe them off with a paper towel and let the product dry and then I can reuse them again. Very inexpensive.😊
For sure!!!!!!!!! Hahah I just bought some the other day!!! At the time I was camera ready, all set up and realized I didn't have stir sticks 😂 glad you enjoyed the video!!!! Happy painting!n
So I want to paint the original dark heavily varnished wood work in an 80 yr. old house. Do you think the Kilz 3 will do great prep work and would you recomend cleaning then scuffing up the woodwork with sand paper then apply the Kilz 3? Would you also add a primer after applying the Kilz and then painting it? I am going with white woodwork to give the rooms a lift. Thank you.
Hi! Yes clean for sure, really well. Then scuff sand and wipe clean, then kilz 3. Id roll 2 layers before applying paint and make sure there's no bleed through after the second layer!
This is frustrating because I just primed an antique desk with two coats of the Kilz 3 and got bleed through. BUT I also primed an antique China cabinet and the doors and drawer front of a corner cabinet and haven’t noticed any so now I’m like ???
Shoot!! Ok how is it looking now?! That's why I always have a spray paint can on hand because that is my last resort!!! That will seal all the things so go grab one!
@@thebrokenmasterpiece well honestly, I put another coat on and waited a few days and it looks fine. But since you’ve been kind enough to reply, I have another question. I primed a piece and watched several videos where people were layering a couple colors of chalk paint and then applying vaseline around the edges, painting over it and then wiping off to give a chippy look. I got adventurous and thought I would try this. I meant to do one drawer to see how I would like it. Well, apparently my early onset dementia kicked in and I marked up the whole piece and all the drawers in spots with two different colors. I did one drawer last night with the vaseline and wiped the paint today and don’t really care for it. I’d rather paint the whole piece white and just distress and or use antiquing wax. Now what do I do about all the spots I’ve put the other colors? Do I have to sand it all off and start over? Yes, I’m a beginner and this is my journey of learning from my mistakes. 🤦♀️ Luckily the piece is for myself and not something I’m trying to sell. Please help. Lol
@@swjeke oh goodness I have not seen the vasoline trick!!! I would wipe everything down with mineral spirits to make sure all the vasoline oil is removed. Let it dry and see if you can just give it a buff sand!! If needed, spray paint with that rustleum paint and primer any area where it took off all the paint completely. Then buff sand that to make it all uniform. Should be able to paint over that!!!!
@@704Church well I only did the one drawer with the vaseline. But painted the rest of the drawers and the desk in random spots on top of the white primer with a dark brown and grayish brown. No vaseline. Do I do another coat of primer over the dark spots and then paint white? I was worried just painting it white wouldn’t cover the darker areas and didn’t know if I had to sand the dark areas first and then prime again and paint.
Yes ma'am I do know that but I just wanted to see how it would hold up compared to the others and it blocked more tannins than valspar and Sherwin-Williams so that was surprising
I use Kilz Restoration and it works sooo well for me! Occasionally I will get a little bleed through in places on bleeders where I sanded to bare wood, but I just use a little spray primer and it takes care of it. I wonder if the Kilz 3 is better than my Kilz Restoration? Hmmmmmm. Thanks for the test! 😊👍🏻
this is a great video, and I hope more people watch it!! 🎉 if i’m not mistaken, spray paint is oil-based which is why it’s such a good sealer, so oil-base and shellac-base perform well, but the fact that kilz is water based?! phenomenal.
Oh sorry I wasn't trying to missed speak like Tim Walz 🤭 I was wondering if you have experience to which would be better for tannin (bleed-through) kilz 3 Premium Or oil base Original kilz 🙂
Shellac based primers, and clear shellac are my go to. As long as you clean and scuff sand to prep the surface, it works great. Shellac sticks to anything and anything sticks to shellac. My second choice is oil based primers. I prefer to use oil based finishes for the entire project when using oil based primers. I will apply one coat of shellac primer on top of my oil based primer if I need to switch to water based top coats. I only use water based primers when I'm not worried about bleed through, tannins, stains, or odors.
Absolutely brilliant video Kristen! Thank you for putting them all side by side like that. I'm blown away with the spray paint and the KILZ doing so well.
❤️❤️❤️ thank you so much for watching!!! I was too!
Excellent video. I personally only use Zinsser B-I-N for these types of applications, it works for me every time and lasts a very long time. Ideal for high traffic applications. By far, the two biggest primer mistakes are -- not prepping the surface correctly and not allowing the primer to dry long enough. You have done a great job showing this on the video. All primers need to dry for at least 24 hours before top coating, to allow it to fully bond to the surface and lock in the stain. For deep stain blocking, I wait 48 hours. Zinsser 1-2-3 like most premium primers, is great for the right application, but like most brands they make false marketing claims on the tin.
YESSS! Such great points!! I never knew primer needed to sit overnight until shellac. And its so true that they all need that!!
OBSERVATION great video. Could you expand to paint over red paint, piece of pine with knots, sap, an already painted piece, and a stain and veneer and on all using 1 coat and then 2 coats. Thanks
Possibilities for the future!
Twist ending! Thanks so much for putting in the work on this. Super useful info!
Absolutely! Thank you for watching!!!
Ok this is amazing!! You just answered all my questions about which primer to use
Ahh yayy thank you!!
And thank you for watching ❤️❤️
This was so eyeopening! I usually go with Zinsser 123 and have had good luck with that with all in one paints, but you've got me thinking I should switch to the Kilz 3 instead. I love BIN but it is so expensive and I'd rather spray a waterbased one. Thanks for doing this!
Thank you so much for watching and yes bin is so expensive!!
Just primed some cabinet/bookshelves I had stripped down to bare wood (previously painted over stain) using Killz3. I did thin it with Floetrol (5%-ish) to make it easier to spray with my Graco X5 and it did ok - there is still some bleed-through in spots. I haven't done a second coat yet so hoping what spots did come through are covered up. The biggest negative with it I've found is sanding - Killz3 does not sand well at all. It gums up even days later and remains tacky. I also sprayed a ceiling I had skim-coated and the paint dust from that was horrible. It was sticky and walking on it I had 1/4" of paint build up on the bottom of my shoes. I am planning on putting down hardwood flooring so I have bare subfloor exposed and it was just an absolute mess. Just something to consider.
Yes it is gummy!!!! I love sanding shellac. Use that Rust-Oleum spray if the bleed through doesn't stay gone!!
I have leftover exterior latex waterbased paint I want to use for an outdoor shed, it doesn't need to look crazy nice. What primer would be best for that, w/ a paint sprayer?
Any primer is great! Kilz for mold and mildew would be my go to!
@@thebrokenmasterpiece Awesome thank you!
I love the video starting from the title. Only one like it! Thank you so much
Oh thank you for watching!!!!! 😊
Wow great experiment! My go to is always the BIN shellac but now I will try the Kilz 3 for sure. The Rustoleum spray will be handy to have on hand too. Thank you so much for this video. 😊👍
Absolutely!! And the cool thing w Rust-Oleum is that you can find matte/flat in many of their colors so you don't have to spot touch w white if using a darker color
BIN, because that’s all I have right now. 😂 When that’s finished I might consider a different one. But I wouldn’t go water based again ever. 😅
yup I still use Bin as my go to!!
Thanks. This will save me so much time!
I'm so glad!
That's a great experiment!!
Thank you!
Great video and information. I’ll have to look into the top dog next time I need primer (I currently have 2 gallons on BIN red).
It's so expensive!! And thank you for watching!
What about 1 coat, then sand, then another coat? Likewise, how do these do when sanded...do they sand clean, gummy or what? Also, spraying these vrs rollering? Do you spray a primer and would it be better or worse? Thanks
Spraying a primer is always better in my book, and yes some of them are gummy when sanding and that is awful!! That's why I still prefer shellac. It isn't gummy
What sealer would you recommend for to keep the tannins from showing when white washing wood?
What are you using to white wash? And on what wood?
Cherry Wood, and I want to white wash with anything that won’t draw out the tannins. I want to avoid it turning pink and/or red in the future.
I'm getting ready to paint my granddaughter's Ikea MALM bedroom set. I was having trouble deciding what type of primer to use. Thanks so much for all the input. I'm still laughing about the butter knife stirrers. I only do an occasional project but have found that they wooden craft sticks that look like tongue blades are perfect for stirring the smaller size cans of whatever it is I need to stir. That way you don't waste your longer paint stirrers and if I'm going to reuse them with the same color or product, I just wipe them off with a paper towel and let the product dry and then I can reuse them again. Very inexpensive.😊
For sure!!!!!!!!! Hahah I just bought some the other day!!! At the time I was camera ready, all set up and realized I didn't have stir sticks 😂 glad you enjoyed the video!!!! Happy painting!n
Have you tried just shellac? I use a one-pound cut and have not had a problem.
Yes, actually I honestly prefer shellac because the kilz one that worked really well does not stand well at all. So I still prefer using shellac
@@thebrokenmasterpiece "does not stand well"? do you mean it's not durable, or...?
So I want to paint the original dark heavily varnished wood work in an 80 yr. old house. Do you think the Kilz 3 will do great prep work and would you recomend cleaning then scuffing up the woodwork with sand paper then apply the Kilz 3? Would you also add a primer after applying the Kilz and then painting it? I am going with white woodwork to give the rooms a lift. Thank you.
Hi! Yes clean for sure, really well. Then scuff sand and wipe clean, then kilz 3. Id roll 2 layers before applying paint and make sure there's no bleed through after the second layer!
@@thebrokenmasterpiece Thank you so much for your comment. I needed that confirmation. Your video was also very revealing. Good work!
Hiya which one on pine white painted doors
I would do shellac!! 2 coats! And then a spray shot of rust oleum on the knots if they're still showing
This is frustrating because I just primed an antique desk with two coats of the Kilz 3 and got bleed through. BUT I also primed an antique China cabinet and the doors and drawer front of a corner cabinet and haven’t noticed any so now I’m like ???
Shoot!! Ok how is it looking now?! That's why I always have a spray paint can on hand because that is my last resort!!! That will seal all the things so go grab one!
@@thebrokenmasterpiece well honestly, I put another coat on and waited a few days and it looks fine. But since you’ve been kind enough to reply, I have another question. I primed a piece and watched several videos where people were layering a couple colors of chalk paint and then applying vaseline around the edges, painting over it and then wiping off to give a chippy look. I got adventurous and thought I would try this. I meant to do one drawer to see how I would like it. Well, apparently my early onset dementia kicked in and I marked up the whole piece and all the drawers in spots with two different colors. I did one drawer last night with the vaseline and wiped the paint today and don’t really care for it. I’d rather paint the whole piece white and just distress and or use antiquing wax. Now what do I do about all the spots I’ve put the other colors? Do I have to sand it all off and start over? Yes, I’m a beginner and this is my journey of learning from my mistakes. 🤦♀️ Luckily the piece is for myself and not something I’m trying to sell. Please help. Lol
@@swjeke oh goodness I have not seen the vasoline trick!!! I would wipe everything down with mineral spirits to make sure all the vasoline oil is removed. Let it dry and see if you can just give it a buff sand!! If needed, spray paint with that rustleum paint and primer any area where it took off all the paint completely. Then buff sand that to make it all uniform. Should be able to paint over that!!!!
@@704Church well I only did the one drawer with the vaseline. But painted the rest of the drawers and the desk in random spots on top of the white primer with a dark brown and grayish brown. No vaseline. Do I do another coat of primer over the dark spots and then paint white? I was worried just painting it white wouldn’t cover the darker areas and didn’t know if I had to sand the dark areas first and then prime again and paint.
Slick Stix is not for blocking it for adhesion only
Yes ma'am I do know that but I just wanted to see how it would hold up compared to the others and it blocked more tannins than valspar and Sherwin-Williams so that was surprising
I use Kilz Restoration and it works sooo well for me! Occasionally I will get a little bleed through in places on bleeders where I sanded to bare wood, but I just use a little spray primer and it takes care of it. I wonder if the Kilz 3 is better than my Kilz Restoration? Hmmmmmm. Thanks for the test! 😊👍🏻
Absolutely thank you for watching!!!
Of course. ❤
omg krud kutter! I think that's going to solve my problem. thank you!!
Absolutely!!!
Questions what is the best one for a sprayer? And are you diluting the primer when used in a sprayer? Thanks!
Yes just a bit for thinning so you can still stain block! Went on really well w a sprayer, just slow going
The best one is shellac. Thinnest
this is a great video, and I hope more people watch it!! 🎉
if i’m not mistaken, spray paint is oil-based which is why it’s such a good sealer, so oil-base and shellac-base perform well, but the fact that kilz is water based?! phenomenal.
Yes!! That's what I was thinking!! So nuts!
And thank you so much, thank you for watching!
kilz 3 Premium Vs original kilz 🤔
Yeah?
Oh sorry I wasn't trying to missed speak like Tim Walz 🤭 I was wondering if you have experience to which would be better for tannin (bleed-through) kilz 3 Premium Or oil base Original kilz 🙂
Shellac based primers, and clear shellac are my go to. As long as you clean and scuff sand to prep the surface, it works great. Shellac sticks to anything and anything sticks to shellac. My second choice is oil based primers. I prefer to use oil based finishes for the entire project when using oil based primers. I will apply one coat of shellac primer on top of my oil based primer if I need to switch to water based top coats. I only use water based primers when I'm not worried about bleed through, tannins, stains, or odors.
Amazing insight thank you!!
Not surprised by the Kilz.
Great video! Thank you!!
You are so welcome! thank you so much for watching and commenting!!!
The winner is kilz3 RIGHT?
yes!! however if you take into consideration sanding at all,,...kilz3 is gummy when sanded....but a great overall coverage
Great thanks!!!
You're welcome!
Back in science class over here hahaha.
😂😂 haha yes! Thank you for watching
oh the dreaded bleed thru! yuck! this was great!
Thank you Kara!!!
My vote is BIN Red!
It was almost the best!!! I was so surprised!
Thanks 🙏 as you channel grows please invest in better lighting. Broadcast lighting not Amazon!
Thank you for the tip. I'll keep that in mind!
Kilz
You’re using products that aren’t for blocking tannins.
Most all of them are for blocking tannins!