I am a professional decorator with 20 years experience: I tried some of this on some varnished skirting and frames. I have always sanded down the substrate & used the Zinsser B.I.N to achieve a solid base. This time I thought I would sand down and use the Zinsser 123 after 3 coats fully dry it passed the scratch test. However I would not use the Zinsser 123 without sanding like you can with the shellac based B.I.N . I don’t know why anyone would not sand down the woodwork anyway, yes you are minimising The amount of dust but at the same time you are sacrificing the quality of the finish. I hope this helps.
Hello. 20 years in the trade. You must be the expert here. 👍 Could you please give me your best advice on choosing the most durable paint system for my wooden framed windows? I've used 80 grit sandpaper and I spent hours & days > hand sanding x 4 wooden sash window + 3 doors. I sanded off many layers of old yellowed gloss leaving behind a thin layer of gloss which I can now see the wood grain through. I 'm now facing trust issues with water based paints for my interior as I never used them before. Solvent-oil paints are phasing out fast. I want to be 100% sure I am choosing the right paint system, so I don't have to re-do all my efforts. How would I go about this ? Do I need to prime first over the old thin layer of gloss ? using Bulls eye 123 or BIN then a top coat ? Please tell me the most trustworthy & durable paint system ( paint brands) to use with the longest lasting effect ? if this is possible ? Regards Micheal 👍
It says on the side of the tin of 123 not recommended for varnish and stain ??? If you are going to sand right back you might as well use normal primer much cheaper..
Primer is used to provide adherence, which it does that in one coat. A second coat will not improve adherence. If you are applying two finish coats--which you should always do--a second coat of primer is not needed to even out the final coverage . I've done thousands of square feet of with the 1 coat primer, 2 coats semi-gloss white finish over dark, varnished wood with absolute success. Like you, I scuff away nibs with a very fine sandpaper, or use a fine scuff pad on trim or uneven surfaces. The only reason I use a second coat of primer is if stains bleed through--in which case you will wish you had use the superior, oil-base stain blocker or BIN shellac. Good vid!
@@richarddoheny2706 Why not? The BIN product he is talking about is also water-based. But you can also apply it over the oil-based BIN, or the BIN shellac primers. My entire home is satin Decorator's White latex over all three primers. Latex BIN on varnish, PVA'd drywall, or previous latex paint; oil based over "pitchy" new wood or some stains; shellac base over nasty stains, or when I need superior sanding or ultimate adherence.
I use this product and trust it (as I trust all Zinnser products), but I would still at least run a fine scotch-brite pad over the surface to insure better bonding.
@sharijudd4576 It is a product by Zinnser. Pretty much a tinted shellac. So think of a primer that rather than using an oil or latex base, uses shellac. Works for well for certain situations. Easy to clean the brush with 50/50 water and ammonia.
Any knots that haven't been treated will bleed through water based paint. That's why bin is the primer too use, shellac primer will seal the knots in the wood.
I am painting a small book case using this product. After I put on the first coat I noticed there were brush marks. After watching your video I see that this is normal. I will need to put on another coat. The paint is an ultra white satin. This helped with my project. I have also used the spray version when I was painting metal book ends. Excellent product.
Hey! I am wondering, did the end result leave a nice all white finish? I want to use this all.over my room and I want to know if Ill need to purchase white paint to put on it
It's important to use additional coats; brush strokes will show through. The overall finish is smooth and even. I needed to thin out the paint in order to get rid of brush marks. I used wall paint instead of cabinet paint. Wall paint is made to dry quickly. Therefore the brushstrokes had no time to flow out. I also used a foam roller for the areas that were big. I use the brush for smaller portions.
Purdy white doves for application. Roll on with 1, lay off with a clean one. Spray finish guaranteed! Light key preferable. 123 will stick to sny surfaces, but will peel if chipped or knocked
I have used this for non-ferrous areas on a garage door and seemed to work well. My issue is with the product and although I was outside and it was fairly warm, the Blaze, Proforma contractor synthetic brush seemed to clog up pretty quick, and it wasn’t the easiest to wash with soap and water. Anyone else have cleaning issues. Just to add, I am old school and would either or both, de-nib/ sugar soap / wash down the surface, + use the shellac based ( Smith and Rodger) or oil base adhesion primer, which is essentially what all of these products are. The acid test is whether you can scrape it off easily or it chips when knocked.
yes these paints do mess your brushes up bristle are never as soft agin just using soap and water even wire brushing your brushes all water paint clogs up your brush including emulsion's. you need to wash it every 1 hour or so.
I did a staircase which was stained with mahogany and then varnished over..used good old-fashioned oil based primer, UC and topcoat...still looks really good 10 years later..
That is good to hear. I have some Junk Monkey Paint. Eight different colors from them. And I would like to put an interesting color on these poor little sad varnished doors. One of my cats decided he wanted to strip off parts of the cheap door off on the bottom. I have barbecued the cat. But the door will hang in there. Ha ha. Sorry. I didn't really barbecue Billy Bob. Being a bobtail cat. There's not enough meat on him that it would make it worth my while.
@@davidmorris6278 they turned great. Give them a couple coats of primer. I didn’t wax because I didn’t want to repeat process in 6 months. Instead I used General Finishes Flat Out Flat Topcoat. I gave it 3 very thin coats and no yellowing.
@@JBTV Hi Justin, Bought this in ToolStation. However I have just looked at the instructions and it states 'NR' for varnish and stains? weird when the tin states Stainkiller? Before I start on the banister like in the video should I buy the smellier BIN red tin or the just use this Bulls Eye 123? Please advise. Thanks.
@@therookiegbuk7011 I've had no issues with it on the Varnished surface. What you could do is lightly key the Varnished surface, this will help it to adhere even better. Good luck
Best stuff I’ve ever used. Used it on exterior render, concrete and poly filla etc, also on different caulks that normally wouldn’t take paint, with perfect results
First time home owner here. Our drywall contractor just recommended this product to use before we paint our living room. I've read people saying it's really thick and you might need to thin it. What's your experience? And how would we thin it? Cut it with some water?
I have used this blue one and also used the red one stain killer and although this is easy clean i prefer the red one works better. I have just done up a really dark stained dining table and chair to pure white and no bleed through with 2coats. Thanks for sharing
My beams have exactly the same color and I’ve always wanted to paint them white. Thank you for the video, I feel more comfortable now to get started on painting those orange beams.
@@Napoleon-Blownapart Hi I've sanded down old yellowing gloss wooden framed windows x 4 . I have trust issues buying the right paint. I want to make sure I us ethe most durable. How is still holding up any flaking ?
I bought this paint after watching this review. I read the instructions on the tin and it states it's not recommended for painting over varnish/woodstain. I used it anyway.. I keyed the varnished wood, painted it using two coats and let it dry. I could easily scrape the paint off with my finger nail. What is recommended for this purpose is B-I-N.
100 percent right m8 im a pro decorator and would never use the water based it is garbage always use the oil bases or shellac based bins primer this guy is clueless
@@clintmannion5598 Hello. pro decorator You must be the expert here. 👍 Could you please give me your best advice on choosing the most durable paint system for my wooden framed windows? I've used 80 grit sandpaper and I spent hours & days > hand sanding x 4 wooden sash window + 3 doors. I sanded off many layers of old yellowed gloss leaving behind a thin layer of gloss which I can now see the wood grain through. I 'm now facing trust issues with water based paints for my interior as I never used them before. Solvent-oil paints are phasing out fast. I want to be 100% sure I am choosing the right paint system, so I don't have to re-do all my efforts. How would I go about this ? Do I need to prime first over the old thin layer of gloss ? using BIN then a top coat ? will water based top coat stick to BIN ? Please tell me the most trustworthy & durable paint system ( paint brands) to use with the longest lasting effect ? if this is possible ? Regards Micheal 👍
This was a really helpful video, probably for a different reason to most! I've just put a single coat of 123 over a door that had a previous cream finish where some points that had chips had been sanded back to wood, spot filled and feathered, and after first coat the 123 hadn't really covered the bare wood areas very well, they were still very obvious. Looking at how well it performed there on the second coat, I'll definitely be going that route before I try my topcoats!
If it makes you feel any better, one of my kitty cats decided he wanted to try to strip pieces of the veneer at the bottom of one of those cheap doors we have in our houses. I did not kill him. He is a bobtail cat and na,ed Billie Bob, of course. So there's not enough meat on his bones to make it worth my while for even a BBQ. . But I'm going to use this product on the door. I can sand out a little bit to feather it. And I'm not that picky but I would like it not to look like crap I heard about this particular Bullseye 123 product and I think it is going to be fantastic.
@@gailremp8389 I ended up using a combination of 1-2-3 and spot priming with BIN to get the job done. 2-3 thin coats of 1-2-3 got a good base, but there were some tannin bleed spots that the BIN primer was much better at covering. End result was pretty good.
Interesting. I used 123 on varnish keyed in and it didnt take so used b.i.n. Stupid question but did you do the scratch test? B.I.N is recommended for glossy surfaces
@@rabbieg09 It will actually peel in certain circumstances as its latex based. Unlike the alkyd based Cover Stain, which will cure over time and therefore become brittle with age.
Very good result! It's just getting my head around the fact you don't need to sand a key to start with, just wonder if it will come off in a few years or months time.Although when I have used zinsser products in the recent past I have always been pleased with the results. Very good video Justin!👍
I have just painted my varnished rimu (native New zealand hardwood) rafters with this.... It totally failed, and I had to start again using the zinsser B-I-N product. Its horrendous to use compared to the 123 but will block any stains out there. Beware using 123. It is much weaker as a stain blocker than the B-I-N.
You should've used Zinsser Allcoat exterior stain or gloss, from start to finish, and it's water based. The first coat primes and seals, the second coat completes the sealing process, personally I would apply a third coat.
i have 35yr old kitchen cabinets. They are a bit sticky. i would assume i need to clean the cabinet with TSP or mineral spirit before applying zinser 123?
If you want a better result with Bullseye 123 you need to sand properly and apply 2 coats. I tried in many surfaces, sometimes it peels off easily if the surface was not sanded. It is strong as much as a oil based primer when the application is done in right way and no odor.
Thanks for the footage. I put 123 on our door without sanding and the first coat of it is scraping off with a light touch with my fingernail. Its not been on for 7 days yet so im hoping it will stick
@@charliemccollum Thanks. For various reasons, I have 123 on my multifinish walls underneath two coats of emulsion. I live in fear that if the emulsion gets knocked that this will bring the primer off. I'd done such a good job on the walls too. I sanded 123 off the main, problem wall/culprit. And, of course, 123 doesn't sand well either. Still deciding whether to put B.I.N. on this area or fill and mist coat all over again. Nightmare knowing I have walls that look great but wondering if they'll hold.
@@geoffsmith673 hope it goes ok. 👍 i was painting stained wood. 123 just would not adhere. Bin coverstain really covered well and soaked right into the wood.. very good stuff. I am just a DIYer so not sure whats best for you.
@@charliemccollum It is what it is now! I am not convinced about putting B.I.N or coverstain over large areas of wall. We'll see. Thanks for the reply.
Thanks.. very helpful! Can you tell me how to wood stain over this primer? I’m planning to redo my dinning table.. looking for weathered barn look on top and rest beige with chairs. Thanks
Thank you! Getting ready to prime my 1st house. Excited about it. Your video kicked out any doubts about 123 ... rhyme ... primer sealer stain killer :D
Correct way is to completely strip cabinets or varnished surface. Second way is not as good as first but clean with tsp and warm water, let dry then use deglosser
I came here to see if the 123 would be a good option for my varnished door frames, after reading the comments and a bit of research to back up other peoples claims in the comments, ill be using Zinsser B.I.N.
Yes BIN is only product that can't be scratched off. This stuff he's using scratches off easily. 123 is good for walls and fabric but only BIN on slick stuff like varnish and glass
I know from experience that the water based that your using will simply scratch off with a fingernail. More with a scraper. It does grip the varnish but it’s not bomb proof. Don’t understand keying the Zinsser but not the varnish ? The red tin solvent based is better. I’ve got videos on my channel using it. I still gave my varnished doors a light sand. Great product.
Hi Justin, thanks for this great video. On Screwfix, under some old Q&A on This product they do not recommend zinsser bull's eye 123 on varnished wood. They suggest using Zinsser cover stain or the BIN. I was wondering what your thoughts are.
Bin is much better for sticking to the varnish than 123. If you do a scratch test 123 will come off much easier than bin. 123 is easier to use but doesn't always work.
I know this post is older but I have several gallons of the Zinsser 1-2-3 bulls eye primer and sealer. I want to paint my basement floor in a small room. There will not be much foot traffic. Can I use this paint on my basement floor??
Hello Justin. Your all videos are very helpful for home painters. Thanks for all good information. Do you have any video to do white paint on Briwax. If you have please send me link. Thanks 🙏🏻
Thank you. I would avoid painting on top of bees wax. If you do, you would have to clean with spirit, then apply a zinsser bin type product, or use a solvent based primer.
hi I am having 4o go over app door frames.and skirting boards that have varnish on and want to go to white. So just going over this. 120 grade sand even in the grooves. Do.Inreallt need.tonpaint Zinnser twice? Then light rub again. Put undercoat with dulux trade paint. Then oik based Sateen white. Hope you can help. The whole house will take ages
I used this on some varnished trim and after first coat tested it and it scraped off. I even degreased and sanded a bit to scuff. Should I just put more coats on? I dont want it flaking off down the road....
I am starting a job next week, varnish banisters, door frames, skirting boards, was dreading rubbing it all down , I knew Zinsser had something to save me, you have just confirmed this, thank you, do you think the Zinsser cover stain would work? I know it’s oil base but I will be using the same brush for the satinwood as well, brilliant, thank you.
Hi. I want the paint the bar in my pub. It's varnished originally and I would like to apply a darker varnish. Could I use this first and then dark varnish on top ?
Hi Justin, I have been told that you can use the Zinsser cover stain as well on varnish, wood stain , would you recommend this? I know it’s solvent base and stinks lol
For exterior (rotten window frame) what product? I have tins of Zinsser BIN and Gardz - do I need 123 instead? Or something else? To fill the hole, should I use putty or wholly replace the wood (its only the strip of wood that holds the glass in place)
I use the bin primer 123 on my Pine posts for outside after I painted them and varnish them the bleed-through came through I am now in the mist of stripping it all down to the bare wood again I'm going to be using the bin primer I would never use the bullseye 123 again just had to share it's been a lot of work and frustration
@@jackwardley3626 it was it was zinsser 123 and this is what happened the bin primer from zinsser is the best I talk from experience and a lot of hard work
Justin, very interesting, after sugar soap and washing ceiling in kitchen whats the difference between the 123 and the bin primers? What's best for a kitchen varnished/stained ceiling? also, can they be finished with a gloss?
Im just about to do a banister with spindles, i was going to sand them down then use the red B.I.N zinzer with a paint sprayer, have you used the red or any of these products in a paint sprayer?
I may give this stuff a try on my kitchen cabinet carcasses... varnished/poly oak. Perhaps I didn't catch it mentioned, but... question... when applied with a brush, how well does the brush strokes even out? Do you need to sand it before applying the top coat? I'm thinking that larger areas like the sides of the cabinets would be better with a small roller to even the coat out better.
@JBTV thanks for clarifying. So after a couple of coats of Zinsser, perhaps some Dulux Satinwood Brilliant Pure White? Zinsser is the "undercoat" and then there is a final rain jacket added on top? :)
I used that primer to paint over my bedroom door. It cover so well till I notice it turned yellow looking coloring.. I'm planning to paint the door white... what should I do?
Surely you'd get a better smoother finish if doing just a light sanding between coats? Surely there will always nibs otherwise, regardless of colour coverage?
Sand it, coat it with Zinsser Gardz (then you can so whatever you want with it) the Gardz sill seal the wall and naturalise and wallpaper paste, and it's pretty cheap so no excuse not to do it properly.
@@MephProduction I've heard because the Gardz seals so well, the paste won't dry properly if you wallpaper over the wall again (if the paper is vinyl). Might be worth going for something like Wallrock Power Adhesive which has less water content?
I’ve used it to cover over dark oak varnished doors, then a couple of coats of satinwood and they are still perfect and that was three years ago.
awesome
That is exactly what I will use it in….80’s coffee colored stained furniture!
Thanks Chris Martin, this is what I’ve been looking for.
My thoughts exactly 😂
@@sammoore5136 Looking for Chris Martin? Or Zinsser 123? 😝
Been putting off painting my street door as I was told had to strip off varnish etc now I’ve seen this WOW will get a tin tomorrow thanks 👏
I am a professional decorator with 20 years experience: I tried some of this on some varnished skirting and frames. I have always sanded down the substrate & used the Zinsser B.I.N to achieve a solid base. This time I thought I would sand down and use the Zinsser 123 after 3 coats fully dry it passed the scratch test. However I would not use the Zinsser 123 without sanding like you can with the shellac based B.I.N . I don’t know why anyone would not sand down the woodwork anyway, yes you are minimising The amount of dust but at the same time you are sacrificing the quality of the finish. I hope this helps.
Cheers Guy, appreciate the comment
Massively agree with your comments here - sanding gives a superior finish
Hello. 20 years in the trade. You must be the expert here. 👍 Could you please give me your best advice on choosing the most durable paint system for my wooden framed windows? I've used 80 grit sandpaper and I spent hours & days > hand sanding x 4 wooden sash window + 3 doors. I sanded off many layers of old yellowed gloss leaving behind a thin layer of gloss which I can now see the wood grain through. I 'm now facing trust issues with water based paints for my interior as I never used them before. Solvent-oil paints are phasing out fast. I want to be 100% sure I am choosing the right paint system, so I don't have to re-do all my efforts. How would I go about this ? Do I need to prime first over the old thin layer of gloss ? using Bulls eye 123 or BIN then a top coat ? Please tell me the most trustworthy & durable paint system ( paint brands) to use with the longest lasting effect ? if this is possible ? Regards Micheal 👍
It says on the side of the tin of 123 not recommended for varnish and stain ??? If you are going to sand right back you might as well use normal primer much cheaper..
Would it matter if some bin went onto painted wall while doin stairs and effect finish when repainting wall ?
Primer is used to provide adherence, which it does that in one coat. A second coat will not improve adherence. If you are applying two finish coats--which you should always do--a second coat of primer is not needed to even out the final coverage . I've done thousands of square feet of with the 1 coat primer, 2 coats semi-gloss white finish over dark, varnished wood with absolute success. Like you, I scuff away nibs with a very fine sandpaper, or use a fine scuff pad on trim or uneven surfaces. The only reason I use a second coat of primer is if stains bleed through--in which case you will wish you had use the superior, oil-base stain blocker or BIN shellac. Good vid!
can you use a water based satin finish paint on top of the BIN product?
@@richarddoheny2706 Why not? The BIN product he is talking about is also water-based. But you can also apply it over the oil-based BIN, or the BIN shellac primers. My entire home is satin Decorator's White latex over all three primers. Latex BIN on varnish, PVA'd drywall, or previous latex paint; oil based over "pitchy" new wood or some stains; shellac base over nasty stains, or when I need superior sanding or ultimate adherence.
I use this product and trust it (as I trust all Zinnser products), but I would still at least run a fine scotch-brite pad over the surface to insure better bonding.
Don't know why they call it a stain killer as it is beyond hopeless in that context..bin is much better
Dave what is bin??
@sharijudd4576 It is a product by Zinnser. Pretty much a tinted shellac. So think of a primer that rather than using an oil or latex base, uses shellac. Works for well for certain situations. Easy to clean the brush with 50/50 water and ammonia.
I was skeptical. I have used this product here in the States, and it’s fantastic. Thank you for the video.
What are the States?
Hi Justin
Great video! Simple for the lay person to understand. I got great results after watching your video.
I personally have always found Zinsser BIN primer the best product for varnished surfaces. 👍
100% 123 will chip off. Bins is a shellac based primer. The one to use. 👍🏻
Yes, ive used 123 on banister with sanding and it chipped off with slightest knock.
Got to use bin. 123 is water base. It will not stick like Bin. Don’t waste your time.
123 will peel off varnish.
Any knots that haven't been treated will bleed through water based paint. That's why bin is the primer too use, shellac primer will seal the knots in the wood.
I am painting a small book case using this product. After I put on the first coat I noticed there were brush marks. After watching your video I see that this is normal. I will need to put on another coat. The paint is an ultra white satin. This helped with my project. I have also used the spray version when I was painting metal book ends. Excellent product.
Hey! I am wondering, did the end result leave a nice all white finish? I want to use this all.over my room and I want to know if Ill need to purchase white paint to put on it
Thank you!!
It's important to use additional coats; brush strokes will show through. The overall finish is smooth and even. I needed to thin out the paint in order to get rid of brush marks. I used wall paint instead of cabinet paint. Wall paint is made to dry quickly. Therefore the brushstrokes had no time to flow out. I also used a foam roller for the areas that were big. I use the brush for smaller portions.
Purdy white doves for application. Roll on with 1, lay off with a clean one. Spray finish guaranteed! Light key preferable. 123 will stick to sny surfaces, but will peel if chipped or knocked
That's the problem isn't it. It's just not very durable.
Cheers Chris Martin. Great content. Will be trying this today!👍
😄👍
Spitting image! It's crazy, he must get that a lot. I'd use it to get free drinks mate! Lol cheers!
I just came to say this, he should give us a song too. I vote for Yellow! 😂
I have used this for non-ferrous areas on a garage door and seemed to work well. My issue is with the product and although I was outside and it was fairly warm, the Blaze, Proforma contractor synthetic brush seemed to clog up pretty quick, and it wasn’t the easiest to wash with soap and water. Anyone else have cleaning issues. Just to add, I am old school and would either or both, de-nib/ sugar soap / wash down the surface, + use the shellac based ( Smith and Rodger) or oil base adhesion primer, which is essentially what all of these products are. The acid test is whether you can scrape it off easily or it chips when knocked.
yes these paints do mess your brushes up bristle are never as soft agin just using soap and water even wire brushing your brushes all water paint clogs up your brush including emulsion's. you need to wash it every 1 hour or so.
I did a staircase which was stained with mahogany and then varnished over..used good old-fashioned oil based primer, UC and topcoat...still looks really good 10 years later..
Just used on my cabinets before I chalked paint them so there is no bleed through. Great stuff
That is good to hear. I have some Junk Monkey Paint. Eight different colors from them. And I would like to put an interesting color on these poor little sad varnished doors. One of my cats decided he wanted to strip off parts of the cheap door off on the bottom. I have barbecued the cat. But the door will hang in there. Ha ha. Sorry. I didn't really barbecue Billy Bob. Being a bobtail cat. There's not enough meat on him that it would make it worth my while.
Jajajaja. As a punishment he should play with my hyperactive playful dog for a couple hours...
@@davidmorris6278 they turned great. Give them a couple coats of primer. I didn’t wax because I didn’t want to repeat process in 6 months. Instead I used General Finishes Flat Out Flat Topcoat. I gave it 3 very thin coats and no yellowing.
Been asked by the wife and kids to paint our old stained banister, dado rails and bed!. You have saved my life with this. Hope it’s in B&Q. 👍👍👍
Fantastic 👍👍
@@JBTV Hi Justin, Bought this in ToolStation. However I have just looked at the instructions and it states 'NR' for varnish and stains? weird when the tin states Stainkiller? Before I start on the banister like in the video should I buy the smellier BIN red tin or the just use this Bulls Eye 123? Please advise. Thanks.
@@therookiegbuk7011 I've had no issues with it on the Varnished surface. What you could do is lightly key the Varnished surface, this will help it to adhere even better. Good luck
It will never stay on , it will chip so easy 100%
Curious if this held up well?
Best stuff I’ve ever used. Used it on exterior render, concrete and poly filla etc, also on different caulks that normally wouldn’t take paint, with perfect results
First time home owner here. Our drywall contractor just recommended this product to use before we paint our living room. I've read people saying it's really thick and you might need to thin it. What's your experience? And how would we thin it? Cut it with some water?
@@sonichallbartender it would be very expensive to paint all your walls with this. I would just use a drywall primer
Great advice, using Zinsser 123 for the first time. Looks like the perfect way to cover old or bad surfaces.
Did u use oil based primer or water based?
I have used this blue one and also used the red one stain killer and although this is easy clean i prefer the red one works better. I have just done up a really dark stained dining table and chair to pure white and no bleed through with 2coats. Thanks for sharing
I have to paint a large dining room table as well. Can you please tell me exactly what product you used? Thank you so much!
Parachutes was definitely your best album
@jlbradders Yep, I think so too 🤣
My beams have exactly the same color and I’ve always wanted to paint them white. Thank you for the video, I feel more comfortable now to get started on painting those orange beams.
Zinsser gear is the business. Did our exterior windows in this and two coats of their exterior satin, brilliant finish.
How is it holding up? Any peeling?
All good, zero peeling! Mother in law had decoraters in doing hers at the same time. Hers are cracked and peeling already. Good gear.
@@Napoleon-Blownapart Thanks!
@@Napoleon-Blownapart Hi I've sanded down old yellowing gloss wooden framed windows x 4 . I have trust issues buying the right paint. I want to make sure I us ethe most durable. How is still holding up any flaking ?
Thank you Justin for a well made straight forward vid. Be painting something similar today, cheers.
I'm using that right now to redo my kitchen cabinets
I bought this paint after watching this review. I read the instructions on the tin and it states it's not recommended for painting over varnish/woodstain. I used it anyway.. I keyed the varnished wood, painted it using two coats and let it dry. I could easily scrape the paint off with my finger nail. What is recommended for this purpose is B-I-N.
100 percent right m8 im a pro decorator and would never use the water based it is garbage always use the oil bases or shellac based bins primer this guy is clueless
@@pmrose18 I'd use oil based more however I can't stand the smell of it. I don't like how the whites go yellow after a couple of years either.
you can use zinsser 123 plus thats good on varnish woodstain
@@clintmannion5598 Hello. pro decorator You must be the expert here. 👍 Could you please give me your best advice on choosing the most durable paint system for my wooden framed windows? I've used 80 grit sandpaper and I spent hours & days > hand sanding x 4 wooden sash window + 3 doors. I sanded off many layers of old yellowed gloss leaving behind a thin layer of gloss which I can now see the wood grain through. I 'm now facing trust issues with water based paints for my interior as I never used them before. Solvent-oil paints are phasing out fast. I want to be 100% sure I am choosing the right paint system, so I don't have to re-do all my efforts. How would I go about this ? Do I need to prime first over the old thin layer of gloss ? using BIN then a top coat ? will water based top coat stick to BIN ? Please tell me the most trustworthy & durable paint system ( paint brands) to use with the longest lasting effect ? if this is possible ? Regards Micheal 👍
Zinser BIN has worked for me on varnished areas
Is the best option. 123 that hes using is more likely to chip/scratch off.
I started using this stuff. It’s amazing stuff. ❤
Cool man
Would recommend light sanding down first even if it says no need to.
Yeah i would too. I used it on varnish and it flakes of VERY easily.
A thumps up for that mini rap bar right there ✅! Love it 👌🏿
This was a really helpful video, probably for a different reason to most! I've just put a single coat of 123 over a door that had a previous cream finish where some points that had chips had been sanded back to wood, spot filled and feathered, and after first coat the 123 hadn't really covered the bare wood areas very well, they were still very obvious. Looking at how well it performed there on the second coat, I'll definitely be going that route before I try my topcoats!
If it makes you feel any better, one of my kitty cats decided he wanted to try to strip pieces of the veneer at the bottom of one of those cheap doors we have in our houses.
I did not kill him. He is a bobtail cat and na,ed Billie Bob, of course. So there's not enough meat on his bones to make it worth my while for even a BBQ.
. But I'm going to use this product on the door. I can sand out a little bit to feather it. And I'm not that picky but I would like it not to look like crap I heard about this particular Bullseye 123 product and I think it is going to be fantastic.
@@gailremp8389 I ended up using a combination of 1-2-3 and spot priming with BIN to get the job done. 2-3 thin coats of 1-2-3 got a good base, but there were some tannin bleed spots that the BIN primer was much better at covering. End result was pretty good.
@@spronkey much thanks... I will let Billy Bob live for yet another day. Peace.
Interesting. I used 123 on varnish keyed in and it didnt take so used b.i.n. Stupid question but did you do the scratch test? B.I.N is recommended for glossy surfaces
great vid use with confidence i use it all the time and ive been a painter for 50 years !
Does it chip easy?
@@rabbieg09 It will actually peel in certain circumstances as its latex based. Unlike the alkyd based Cover Stain, which will cure over time and therefore become brittle with age.
Do the scratch test on it that really shows how good the product is .
If it's good enough for Chris Martin 👍
Loving your humour. Will try it out. Cheers!
Very good result! It's just getting my head around the fact you don't need to sand a key to start with, just wonder if it will come off in a few years or months time.Although when I have used zinsser products in the recent past I have always been pleased with the results. Very good video Justin!👍
Thanks Justin, very helpful and informative
I've sanded a dark wood varnished surface to give it a key, added two coats of zinzer 123 and it's still turning yellow!
Great video. Just what I was looking for!
I have just painted my varnished rimu (native New zealand hardwood) rafters with this....
It totally failed, and I had to start again using the zinsser B-I-N product.
Its horrendous to use compared to the 123 but will block any stains out there.
Beware using 123. It is much weaker as a stain blocker than the B-I-N.
You should've used Zinsser Allcoat exterior stain or gloss, from start to finish, and it's water based. The first coat primes and seals, the second coat completes the sealing process, personally I would apply a third coat.
I would suggest oil based, better safe than sorry.
i have 35yr old kitchen cabinets. They are a bit sticky. i would assume i need to clean the cabinet with TSP or mineral spirit before applying zinser 123?
If you want a better result with Bullseye 123 you need to sand properly and apply 2 coats. I tried in many surfaces, sometimes it peels off easily if the surface was not sanded. It is strong as much as a oil based primer when the application is done in right way and no odor.
For me as well. I tried it in a few small test areas and it scratches right off so for me sanding is a must on my old trim.
Just bought this and applied to varnished door frames, do I need to go and buy the BIN for the rest? Or can I just stick with 123?
BIN is all you need. 123 is not as durable
Thanks for the footage. I put 123 on our door without sanding and the first coat of it is scraping off with a light touch with my fingernail. Its not been on for 7 days yet so im hoping it will stick
I had a similar problem. Did your problem resolve itself?
@@geoffsmith673 unfortunately not. Swapped the 123 for coverstain and its been great. Sticks like glue
@@charliemccollum Thanks. For various reasons, I have 123 on my multifinish walls underneath two coats of emulsion. I live in fear that if the emulsion gets knocked that this will bring the primer off. I'd done such a good job on the walls too. I sanded 123 off the main, problem wall/culprit. And, of course, 123 doesn't sand well either. Still deciding whether to put B.I.N. on this area or fill and mist coat all over again. Nightmare knowing I have walls that look great but wondering if they'll hold.
@@geoffsmith673 hope it goes ok. 👍 i was painting stained wood. 123 just would not adhere. Bin coverstain really covered well and soaked right into the wood.. very good stuff. I am just a DIYer so not sure whats best for you.
@@charliemccollum It is what it is now! I am not convinced about putting B.I.N or coverstain over large areas of wall. We'll see. Thanks for the reply.
Thanks.. very helpful! Can you tell me how to wood stain over this primer? I’m planning to redo my dinning table.. looking for weathered barn look on top and rest beige with chairs. Thanks
You don't generally woodstain 'over' a primer. You're better off sanding back to bare timber, and then choosing your stain from there. 👍
Thank you! Getting ready to prime my 1st house. Excited about it. Your video kicked out any doubts about 123 ... rhyme ... primer sealer stain killer :D
1:17 had me in stitches haha great video thank you
Did it stay on, does it chip easy?
Did you do the scratch test me personally I would of lightly sand the varnish first . And then I’d put that on
Billy 2 Smooth no. Housless jim
Correct way is to completely strip cabinets or varnished surface. Second way is not as good as first but clean with tsp and warm water, let dry then use deglosser
We’ve used this and it flaked off varnished wood and also 2 coats of it + 2 coats of enamel semi gloss and some yellowing bleeding through.
I came here to see if the 123 would be a good option for my varnished door frames, after reading the comments and a bit of research to back up other peoples claims in the comments, ill be using Zinsser B.I.N.
Lucas Divers just from what I know and looking at the comments, same here on song bin
Using
B-I-N has better adhesion to glossy surfaces and will block the tannin from bleeding through.
123 is not recommended for varnished surfaces, this is advice from the manufacturer and is even on the label! use BIN
@@David-kp4en There's literally a picture on the front label of someone using 123 on finished oak cabinets. It's insane they put that there.
Hi Justin this is great, how would I paint over a glossed staircase??
You'll need to sand it before applying a top coat
Yes BIN is only product that can't be scratched off. This stuff he's using scratches off easily.
123 is good for walls and fabric but only BIN on slick stuff like varnish and glass
Thanks. But between bin and 123, which is best for satin wall.
I know from experience that the water based that your using will simply scratch off with a fingernail. More with a scraper. It does grip the varnish but it’s not bomb proof. Don’t understand keying the Zinsser but not the varnish ?
The red tin solvent based is better. I’ve got videos on my channel using it.
I still gave my varnished doors a light sand. Great product.
I find your video very helpful thankyou ...
I have wurstion can you recomend me wood paint have sayin finish can go above this 123 primer
Do you at all water the 123 down from the tin? Thanks
Is this good as primer for painting over kitchen cabinets?
Thanks for that.Great video!
Thanks man 👍
This is going to save me time.....ohhhh yeah
Just what I needed. Much thanks.
Thanks Justin..
Hi Justin, thanks for this great video. On Screwfix, under some old Q&A on This product they do not recommend zinsser bull's eye 123 on varnished wood. They suggest using Zinsser cover stain or the BIN. I was wondering what your thoughts are.
Download the data sheet for 123. If I remember it says to lightly sand if not use B.I.N.
123 will never last on that , that's certain
Bin is much better for sticking to the varnish than 123. If you do a scratch test 123 will come off much easier than bin. 123 is easier to use but doesn't always work.
Thanks for the content dude.
Would this work on door that has yacht varnish on, over the years they’ve gone orange 😱what satin did you use after please?
I know this post is older but I have several gallons of the Zinsser 1-2-3 bulls eye primer and sealer. I want to paint my basement floor in a small room. There will not be much foot traffic. Can I use this paint on my basement floor??
Hello Justin. Your all videos are very helpful for home painters. Thanks for all good information. Do you have any video to do white paint on Briwax. If you have please send me link. Thanks 🙏🏻
Thank you. I would avoid painting on top of bees wax. If you do, you would have to clean with spirit, then apply a zinsser bin type product, or use a solvent based primer.
Thanks Justin 🙏🏻
hi I am having 4o go over app door frames.and skirting boards that have varnish on and want to go to white. So just going over this. 120 grade sand even in the grooves. Do.Inreallt need.tonpaint Zinnser twice? Then light rub again. Put undercoat with dulux trade paint. Then oik based Sateen white. Hope you can help. The whole house will take ages
Wow cheers. Learning lots cheers
Can I paint and seal plasterboard in a bathroom with this before I paint over it with a coloured bathroom paint?
I used this on some varnished trim and after first coat tested it and it scraped off. I even degreased and sanded a bit to scuff. Should I just put more coats on? I dont want it flaking off down the road....
Great review. Thanks
I am starting a job next week, varnish banisters, door frames, skirting boards, was dreading rubbing it all down , I knew Zinsser had something to save me, you have just confirmed this, thank you, do you think the Zinsser cover stain would work? I know it’s oil base but I will be using the same brush for the satinwood as well, brilliant, thank you.
Hi. I want the paint the bar in my pub. It's varnished originally and I would like to apply a darker varnish. Could I use this first and then dark varnish on top ?
Hi Justin, I have been told that you can use the Zinsser cover stain as well on varnish, wood stain , would you recommend this? I know it’s solvent base and stinks lol
For exterior (rotten window frame) what product? I have tins of Zinsser BIN and Gardz - do I need 123 instead? Or something else?
To fill the hole, should I use putty or wholly replace the wood (its only the strip of wood that holds the glass in place)
I use the bin primer 123 on my Pine posts for outside after I painted them and varnish them the bleed-through came through I am now in the mist of stripping it all down to the bare wood again I'm going to be using the bin primer I would never use the bullseye 123 again just had to share it's been a lot of work and frustration
zinsser 123 plus would have worked thats good on that
@@jackwardley3626 it was it was zinsser 123 and this is what happened the bin primer from zinsser is the best I talk from experience and a lot of hard work
@@cathyknapp9360 the 123 plus is different its in a lighter blue tin
Justin, very interesting, after sugar soap and washing ceiling in kitchen whats the difference between the 123 and the bin primers? What's best for a kitchen varnished/stained ceiling? also, can they be finished with a gloss?
Its good stuff alright, but can't be used on stained chimney breasts or some ceiling stains. You will need the solvent one for that (BIN)
Im just about to do a banister with spindles, i was going to sand them down then use the red B.I.N zinzer with a paint sprayer, have you used the red or any of these products in a paint sprayer?
Do you have to sand in-between the coats of primer?
Does it turning yellow? The white latex paint coat on my window frame turned yellow, can it works with that?
I may give this stuff a try on my kitchen cabinet carcasses... varnished/poly oak. Perhaps I didn't catch it mentioned, but... question... when applied with a brush, how well does the brush strokes even out? Do you need to sand it before applying the top coat? I'm thinking that larger areas like the sides of the cabinets would be better with a small roller to even the coat out better.
Any gloss varnish surfaces needs oil base BIN primer, end of story
After painting a staircase or windowsil with this, do you need to add another layer of another type of paint on top, or does Zinsser alone do the job?
This acts as a primer/undercoat. You'll need to apply your preferred top coat
@JBTV thanks for clarifying. So after a couple of coats of Zinsser, perhaps some Dulux Satinwood Brilliant Pure White? Zinsser is the "undercoat" and then there is a final rain jacket added on top? :)
Will this method also work over polyurethane?
Nice video,I have sanded my treads on stairs 80%,very dark stain was on,if iuse this over the treads can I then use a stain over this primer
I wouldn't stain over the top of a primer, I would paint instead, if you want to go darker, you can get this product in a grey.
Thank you - this is going to save me a lot of time
Can I use this over gloss paint without sanding ?
For Varnish you should use Zinsser BIN, no? 1.2.3 not recommended according to the label
I used that primer to paint over my bedroom door. It cover so well till I notice it turned yellow looking coloring.. I'm planning to paint the door white... what should I do?
Surely you'd get a better smoother finish if doing just a light sanding between coats? Surely there will always nibs otherwise, regardless of colour coverage?
Hi mate could I use it on a high gloss bathroom vanity unit , it’s grey and really shiny but I want it black pls help mate
Hi, I would give it a scratch first, and try and find the grey tinted stuff, that'll work 👍
3-2-1!! Richie!!
Can you sand this paint after coats?
Ok, but how long does it last? I mean will it start peeling off in a few years? Would love to see an update!
Thanks for this I used it and the finish on the doors is perfect
What’s the adhesion like?
Hi Justin, can you do a video on how to prepare a wall for painting after removing wallpaper
Sand it, coat it with Zinsser Gardz (then you can so whatever you want with it) the Gardz sill seal the wall and naturalise and wallpaper paste, and it's pretty cheap so no excuse not to do it properly.
@@MephProduction I've heard because the Gardz seals so well, the paste won't dry properly if you wallpaper over the wall again (if the paper is vinyl). Might be worth going for something like Wallrock Power Adhesive which has less water content?
@@Tephnos yes but we're talking about painting it.. .you've have to Gardz it first. If you're going to repaper then obviously that's not necessary.