Handhold Basics - Body Positioning for Sidepulls & Underclings
Вставка
- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Download Your Free e-book: "How to Maximize Your First Year of Climbing" - the guide I wish I had when I started:
www.movementfo...
----------------------
One of the skills that distinguishes a good climber is their ability to find and get into the best body positions. Correct body positioning is not only energy saving, but also maximizes the energy you can generate from properly utilizing hand and foot holds. This video will explore the different options of body positioning for two common types of handholds: sidepulls & underclings.
(Filmed @ Sacramento Pipeworks)
----------------------
STUFF I USE AND RECOMMEND:
Climbing Gear
Best slipper shoe | 5.10 Moccasym | amzn.to/2WyWtNN
Great moderate shoe | La Sportiva Katana | amzn.to/3619pPq
Performance aggressive shoes | La Sportiva Miura | amzn.to/2Z5fQQf
High quality chalk | Frictionlabs Unicorn Dust 10oz | amzn.to/3dSvP8t
Crag pack (doubles as soft pad) | Black Diamond Pipe Dream 45 | amzn.to/3bxFiAg
Quick draws | Black Diamond Hotforge Quick Draws | amzn.to/2WvXN3V
Climbing rope | Black Diamond 9.9m Rope (70m) | amzn.to/2Lwb4D6
Belay gloves | Black Diamond belay gloves | amzn.to/2y3FNEF
Belay glasses (very useful for outdoors) | NiceClimbs Belay glasses | amzn.to/2yXYNVu
Belay device | Petzl Grigri | amzn.to/2WAhg3A
Harness | Black Diamond Momentum Harness | amzn.to/2T1xzEj
Hangboard | Beastmaker 2000 | amzn.to/3fQmvUh
Climbing/Outdoor Apparel
Most comfortable underwear | ExOfficio Give-N-Go Boxer Brief | amzn.to/2WxZL3K
Good outdoor pants | Prana Stretch Zion | amzn.to/2zGccBo
Warm puffy for cold season | Black Diamond Cold Forge Hoody | amzn.to/3cuf6b4
Great jacket for Spring/Fall | The North Face Ventrix | amzn.to/2z0v5Pz
Useful & Inspiring books
Movement based climbing training | Self Coached Climber | amzn.to/2UnSEJO
Great book on strength & conditioning | Becoming a Supple Leopard | amzn.to/3dJfhjy
Very informative training book | The Rock Climber's Training Manual | amzn.to/3f5aEk6
Awesome read to get you psyched for climbing | Revelations | amzn.to/3ha0Ffd
Recovery gadgets
Vibrating foam roller (legs, forearms, fingers) | Hyperice Vyper 2.0 | amzn.to/3dPEcSe
Massage gun (shoulders, chest, calves, forearms) | Hyperice Hypervolt | amzn.to/3h5l84B
Videography equipment
Microphone | Blue Yeti | amzn.to/2yXs6aJ
Best point & shoot camera + video recorder | Sony Cybershot RX100 7 | amzn.to/3fSG8ec
Good quality sturdy tripod | Slik U9000 tripod | amzn.to/2LuAJw6
I love how straightforward, informative and relaxed these videos are. Thank you for putting them together!
Thanks for the time spent on these tutorials. I'ma new climber, just climbed V3 today for the first time. Always have your stuff in mind when I'm climbing
Bryntb90 congrats! On to v4s!
No homo
This channel is the best for giving CLEAR information, omitting stupid cutesy filler comments that are annoying for someone trying to get the info. I tell all my climber friends about it. Further, I have been climbing a year (sport exclusively) and I need to learn the fundamentals of movement and I'm using these tutorials to help me stop avoiding some of the moves and holds that "freak me out". I would love more sport climbing tutorials
Love this Channel! Can you make a video on a bouldering warmup you do? Now that I am starting to climb intermediate levels (v6-v8), I am prone to injury due to my lack of knowledge of a proper warmup.
And cool down stretching/injury prevention could pair nicely with this video
*not a pro* : I've seen a good climber (Emil Abrahamson) who start the session with 5 minutes of rower. When the cardio is high, he starts doing some movements on the campus board. From simple crossings of the board, to small dynamic moves. Then, when he feels warmed up (he can also see if he is strong or weak this day like this), he starts climbing on the wall. Maybe you can add some warmup for the fingers (light hangboarding, easy crimpy routes, etc.) if you like climbing small crimps.
Now that I do this type of warmup, I'm not injuring myself anymore. My weakness are my shoulders, and I often have tendonitis. Doing small dynamic moves to warmup helped me prevent them.
@@AssassinsHelper no offense, but stretching to prevent injuries is a myth.
@@maximedelmas no offense taken, thanks for your long reply to the original comment! Looks out of my depth currently but very good :)
@@maximedelmas afaik the myth is about static stretching in a warm up
Stretching as cool down or end of the session is advised so your muscles don’t shorten themselves and cause pain for joints
Very good, thanks! This series has the potential to become a modern version of Neil Gresham's Masterclass.
Always flattered by that comparison. Thank you!
I really like these videos. Informative but no self-promotion or ego, just useful information and helpful demonstration.
Please could you do one about using slopers? Something I am currently struggling with, even relatively small slopers that are borderline pinches, I just find impossible to make use of. Pinches I can grip, I am fine with though. Thanks!
Hands down the best climbing content on UA-cam
the terms used can be confusing for beginners, but otherwise super good!
Do you right the script for the video first then go out and get specific footage, or are you going to the gym with the goal of side pull and clings and recording everything you can then righting the script afterwards any use the footage you got from earlier on?
Your body is so strong and fit... I’m
So impressed... it’s relaxing! So is your voice - it’s like beautiful perfection
I love your videos man! Becoming aware of techniques like this (instead of instinctively climbing) helps so much especially when reading routes. I like your emphasis on feet placement because I think it’s equally as important as hand placement. Keep up the greats Vids 😁
I always love your videos. There’s always something for everyone to discover and help with climbing. I personally always take your tips to the gym and it always helps me improve. Thank you so much!
Appreciate you taking the time to always leave a nice/insightful comment on here.
anyone know what pants he's wearing?
Very informative, you make great videos! Also, is that a Bad Snacks track/beat in the background? 😁
Good ear :-)
Where is the rule for the oposites at 6:42? Is the matching of hands one movement, that needs a foot to step, does the torso play a role, you don't twist it at all. Don't you think that at 1.25 the vector of the Gravity needs to pass through your bottom (midbody), the pulling hand and between your feet?Could you explain flaging, with your rule of oposites? What about big moves, you don't show any long move, which is tehe base of rock climbing above 6b+.4,12 again you catch hold with lef and with the right hand, while steping with just one foot-the left - where are the oposites for the second hand, shouldnt you step with right foot before you catch with the right hand or you using inertion, becaause of your fittness. 4.37-your knee pointing the wall?Why? and the right hand catches, while right foot smearing? again why? where is the rule. again about 6.43 - right foot??? in the air and right hand too? Don't you think that rght hand needs to touch the hold or the wall. My apprecition , but your work needs a lot more precison and eye for detail. Even for begginers, it's thuth that climbing culture needs more theory, but you be careful to teach people. Teaching is not like doing yourself. And more climbing! In those channel it seems like you haven't got enough experience in this complex sport. Check out Geometry of Climbing and Biomechanics, please! I'm sorry for my English.
Thankful for your videos and the time you take explaining technique. It has helped me so much in my climbing. Haha the gym your at looks like a gym in my area! pipeworks in Sacramento
You have a cool brain. Thanks for sharing!
Fantastic video, very informative! Thanks!
I feel like I know it when I see it but never have the words to explain it properly. Thank you for this video!!
Your videos have helped my climbing SO MUCH! Thank you!
what are the pants youre wearing in this vid? they look great for climbing
Cool and helpful thank you but just wondering why does your shirt need to be off
So happy to see your channel growing so fast! Clean, concise, no fat resource every time. You have a great channel and I thank you for sharing!
Thanks for making this video I’ve learned a lot
your voice is so calm! thanks for the great video! :). I am just starting and trying to learn more techniques instead of relying solely on strength (which I lack)
Love this guy love this channel love this playlist
great video, thanks for sharing the knowledge
As always, a great video. Thanks!
These videos are just caviar.
Bro your muscle definition is insane. Your shoulders look like topographical maps.
Top favorite UA-camr who does videos. Clean, informative, and easy to understand. Thank you 👍🏼
Hey, I’ve only been climbing for about two weeks now so I am obviously very new but I’m honestly very addicted right now 😂 so my question is, what does a weekly workout routine look like, do you climb on the same days you workout? If so immediately after or before? Do you space it out? Do you only workout 2-3 times a week and then climb every other day? Or the other way around? How many times a week should I be actually climbing? Do you recommend cardio and how much? What do you recommend for beginners like me? What do you recommend for people who have been climbing for years? I’m sorry this is a book of a comment but I think that’d be a great video that I’d find very helpful because I’m not really sure what type of balance I should be looking at! Keep up the great work man I hope to be at your skill level one day!
your videos are amazing btw, I know there's not much variety in terms of content but this is beneficial stuff to every single climber out there!!
Movement for Climbers has some of the best instructional videos for climbing! Keep them coming.
Just wanted to say this is some excellent quality stuff. You explain things conceptually (the tug of war example really helped things click me!) And then explain how you can apply those concepts to make yourself a better climber. From a beginner who loves taking the "nerd" approach to things, thank you so much!!
Love your videos, your voice is so calming and I take in what you say instead of your videos being all over the place and repetitive. Thankyou!
Hihi! I love your videos! They’re really helping how I think about climbing and how I move!
Your physique seems incredible, you follow some type of diet?, I love your channel, keep going.
Favorite boulding channel. Just found you. Love it all. More please
So well
explained. Thanks for finding the time to share this quality explanations.
2, no shirt gives you power
Thanks for the insight on these interesting climbing holds and body positions. I've experimented but haven't quite found the feel for flagging feet. This will help.
I love these videos. The calm, analytical approach is relaxing and helpful. Thank you!
Still the best climbing technique videos on the internet-by far!
Your feedback are much appreciated. I can't even start to understand the amount of time you put in this stuff just to first script it and organize it into something that can be delivered and turn useful for people who follow you. Your knowledge is certainly key but your ability to deliver your material is as superior. Good job! Keep it going, this is very good for you too to produce; I can tell from your video progression from when you first started compared to your new material - you are getting a lot better!
recently started climbing, and this series (and the v progression series) has helped me so much already.
thank you so much!
This channel is amazing!!really learned so much from you!can you do a tutorial on flags, like how to efficiently flag and like when to use a back flag or an inward flag and when to use a side flag,and how to effectively smear when you flag on overhangs?thank you!!
Thanks for posting this! Super relevant to my current project!
So helpful! Thanks for the thoughtfulness of your videos.
Building a theory of climbing move by move.
Brilliant :)
Love seeing a local climber that goes to Pipeworks
I love this series. I'm currently hurt (shoulder, pt in progress) and this is keeping my mind in climbing. Thank you so much!
Clicked on this video so quickly when I saw it, thanks for the video! Great content :)
Your climbing moves bring me peace.
As a new climber, this channel and content is gold🙏
A
Awesome video, as always. Keep up the great work.
Another great addition to your channel.
Well done!
i think this was one of the most useful videos you have rn
Great video! Hope to see a video about warmup. Have a nice day!
:)
Yo do you even own a shirt?
Really good love ur work
super thank you 😀
"The ideal position for feet is having your arms straight when you stand" - would love some more explanation on that one!
Sure thing. Look at the left arm (holding the undercling) at 6:07 and 6:35. As I move towards the next handhold by standing up on the foothold(s), the left arm is extended to where it's practically straight (no bend). Ideally, you would find footholds that are positioned high enough relative to the undercling (without causing a scrunch) so that you can stand into the next move with a straight arm. Hope that helps.
@@movementforclimbers Thanks for the tips!
Im glad im not the only one who describes a gaston as pulling open an elevator door. I always get weird looks when I say that to other climbers.
I like to describe the double gaston as the scene in Ace Ventura 2 where Jim Carrey escapes from the mechanical rhino :-)