I must say, the way you narrate is really nice and neutral. Very calm. I don't feel talked down to or talked above my novice level either. It's really great! I feel really calm and confident replacing my first silcock ever.
Thank you, finally someone actually shows replacing entire assembly and not just repacking the valves. I also appreciate your in-depth explanation on how you can tell if it’s a cracked pipe versus valving issues right up front.
From an old-time journeyman plumber, here’s a trick to repair that burst faucet without having to buy a new one. Simply remove the burst faucet, tap down the burst area, then take a 3/4” copper repair coupling (the coupling without a center stop) and cut out just a bit less than one-half of the coupling diameter, add flux to the burst area, snap the remaining part of the repair coupling over the burst area, then solder it on. Bingo, faucet is as good as new, lives to see another day!
Holy cow! I think this is one of the best videos I’ve ever watched. Plane and simple and to the point. Love the graphics too. Made me a follower today!
Good job! I'll be installing one of these in build I'm doing. Definitely going to make it more accessable than was done here. The bigger repair is the sheetrock because when the homeowner calls back in the winter because they forgot to disconnect the hose I don't want to deal with drywall. I'll also include a ball valve just upstream and use pex instead of copper because I know I will have misplaced my fire blanket.
Excellent video and NO I did not know about the sloping of the faucet supply line. Also watching you cut the pipe in close quarters and how you measured it blew my DIY mind. Thank-you for the excellent information today.
I have a similar job coming up. I'm not a plumber but I'm not really watching to learn how to do the job but the little tips and tricks you gave while doing the job. Thanks👍
Best plumbing instruction video I have seen. Just subscribed. I would have installed a 1/4" turn ball valve and access panel for future access. That's just me...
Wow, you've done an amazing job here. Thank you for making things so simple. I had to watch many videos to understand what's going on, but yours was the best. I wish I had watched it earlier. Please keep up the great work!
thanks for a good video, but wondering why not just solder a female threaded connector inside and screw in the new faucet? Saves the valve from solder heat stress, only that one solder joint, and might save another sheetrock cut later.
Many people drove cars with no antifreeze. Freezing water can crack engine blocks. happened to a buddy.. Good video. I replaced a frost free last year. Love this learning on UA-cam.
Why not use the threaded connection so if this happens again they can just thread in a new spigot? Also did you measure the level and make sure it drains out? That is a critical step and that could be why it froze up in the first place.
Great video! Nice graphics also. How did you know it was a sweat connect vs threaded from the outside? I need to replace an outside faucet and cannot tell - afraid to crank it with a wrench to see and risk breaking it.
What software do you use for drafting your plumbing videos ? I have a customer that I would like to demonstrate the planning/reviewing for his plumbing project 👍 Thank you for your videos! They are great
1st rate video! I have that same problem, but our kitchen cabinets were built around where the hose bib enters the house. 2 plumbers have looked at it and scratched their heads. Apparently, it cannot be replaced without tearing out some cabinetry. 😢
Great and thorough video. I’m confused thought because I didn’t see you adjust the slope. I thought the last one failed because it didn’t drain properly. Won’t this one fail too now?
Excellent and informative - Thank you. My hose bib is leaking from the spindle when I turn it on EXACTLY as to your description of a burst pipe due to not disconnecting the hose BUT there is absolutely NO water coming into my inside wall where the housing passes through THANKFULLY. Frankly, I'm baffled. It's NOT coming from the packing nut. It LOOKS like it's shooting out from the holes in the spindle that turns (OPEN/CLOSE) within the housing of the hose bib assembly.
Mine isn't like that at all. Under a crawl space where I can't pull the pipe out and what I have there's no pulling the pipe out so I have cut the pipe where it is and try to install one where there's soldering.
Hey @Hammerpedia how did you know it was a sweat connection before cutting the drywall to see it? And along that same thought, is it possible to find out if you have a screw in without being able to see the line inside the house? (i.e behind drywall)
You cut the drywall to discover whether it's a screw fitting or other. You could do more damage if you start twisting from the outside when it's not a threaded connection. Good question.
Bro--FWIW--I always use a big piece of white bread (no rust please!) to 'plug up' lines that have residual water in them before I solder. Like the line to your final coupling getting soldered. When done just turn on the water and the bread will liquify and disappear out the faucet when turned on.
I guess I'm gonna need to replace my outside spicket now!! Excellent video and WELL done!!! I'm receiving your emails now but forgot to subscribe!! Lol. PS... I'm subscribed now!! 🙂😉👍
My original spigot enters the basement JUST BELOW the plywood subfloor of the level above. This prevents me from achieving any kind of slope away from the home. In this situation, would I still a new hole, lower than the original spigots penetration, and then fill in the original penetration?
Can I get advice? My Frost Free Faucet is leaking from what I discovered is called a "weep" hole. Your diagram does not show this feature. What should I replace?
I'm dealing with a Arrowhead hydrant with a leaky stem that is threaded on the inside as well as the outside. There is a 90 degree elbow attached to it with threads on the hydrant side and a soldered coupling to a copper pipe on the other end. Ideally I just need to replace the stem but there are no stem kits for the length hydrant so I need to purchase the whole thing. Theoretically I should be able to unscrew the old hydrant but it's tricky as I don't want to apply force to the elbow. Alternately I could just strip the stem out of the new hydrant and leave the existing body in place. I am still deciding what the best approach is.
I just cannot locate the inside end of my freeze proof spigot for replacement. I know it's inside the utility area of my basement but I have no reference points and so many wires & pipes in a small location. Any tips?
I thought that was the whole point of a frost proof spigot so it don't break in the wall. I thought the shut off was inside the house. Good info with the pitch I never new that either but based on that and it still burst in the wall sounds like those are gimmicks and a waste of money ??
Do you guys have an email? I’m interested in to buying one of your books but it’s not a physical book. I was wondering if that option is available instead of a digital copy?
Wait....so....should you not try to future proof that as much as possible for easier disassembly going forward? As a homeowner, I feel as though you should have utilized a different connection method(if it exists) for if ever the home owner is in this situation again. Now if it happens, the cutting procedure has to occur all over again. Is there not a design that us as homeowners can use that can just unscrew?? I noticed that there is threading on the pipe of the spigot, so that hints to me that there is. How come you didn't use that??
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I must say, the way you narrate is really nice and neutral. Very calm. I don't feel talked down to or talked above my novice level either. It's really great!
I feel really calm and confident replacing my first silcock ever.
100% helped me.... I've never plumbed anything in my life
Thank you, finally someone actually shows replacing entire assembly and not just repacking the valves. I also appreciate your in-depth explanation on how you can tell if it’s a cracked pipe versus valving issues right up front.
It's a pleasure to watch a pro at work. Thank you, Hammerpedia guy 🙂
I love this guy. Great video. I bought his plumbing course and it was worth every penny. Thanks for everything sir.
Wow, thanks!
From an old-time journeyman plumber, here’s a trick to repair that burst faucet without having to buy a new one. Simply remove the burst faucet, tap down the burst area, then take a 3/4” copper repair coupling (the coupling without a center stop) and cut out just a bit less than one-half of the coupling diameter, add flux to the burst area, snap the remaining part of the repair coupling over the burst area, then solder it on. Bingo, faucet is as good as new, lives to see another day!
Holy cow! I think this is one of the best videos I’ve ever watched. Plane and simple and to the point. Love the graphics too. Made me a follower today!
You are an excellent plumber. And, you make an excellent video explaining all you do and why you do it. Very well done sir.
Good to know that this solder joint meets code and will stand the test of time. Thanks for sharing.
Wow lots of respect for what a plumber has to know to do this kind of job
Good job! I'll be installing one of these in build I'm doing. Definitely going to make it more accessable than was done here. The bigger repair is the sheetrock because when the homeowner calls back in the winter because they forgot to disconnect the hose I don't want to deal with drywall. I'll also include a ball valve just upstream and use pex instead of copper because I know I will have misplaced my fire blanket.
One of the best videos to explain step by step. Great job
Excellent video and NO I did not know about the sloping of the faucet supply line. Also watching you cut the pipe in close quarters and how you measured it blew my DIY mind. Thank-you for the excellent information today.
I have a similar job coming up. I'm not a plumber but I'm not really watching to learn how to do the job but the little tips and tricks you gave while doing the job. Thanks👍
Best plumbing instruction video I have seen. Just subscribed. I would have installed a 1/4" turn ball valve and access panel for future access. That's just me...
Yes!
Wow, you've done an amazing job here. Thank you for making things so simple. I had to watch many videos to understand what's going on, but yours was the best. I wish I had watched it earlier. Please keep up the great work!
Thanks for the kind words
Excellent explanation and instructions. Thank you for making it sooo much easier.
This is really a brilliant video and graphics. GREAT WORK.
thanks for a good video, but wondering why not just solder a female threaded connector inside and screw in the new faucet? Saves the valve from solder heat stress, only that one solder joint, and might save another sheetrock cut later.
Good point. Now wondering about different options myself
U don't understand its not supposed to be for next plumber present
Yeah, but the next "plumber" could be the home owner that can just unscrew the fixture and then screw in a replacement. Job costs $20 and not $100s
Very good suggestion!
Many people drove cars with no antifreeze. Freezing water can crack engine blocks. happened to a buddy.. Good video. I replaced a frost free last year. Love this learning on UA-cam.
You’ve made this so easy to understand. Excellent video! Thank you!
Thanks Melissa!
Great video! I now understand the leak, how it happened and how to fix it. Great Job!
this explains why my faucet was leaking behind my brick wall only when it's on. Thanks! have a like
Hi sir good explain
Thanks and looking forward to your follow up video on rebuilding one of these.
This is so clear! I really like these videos. Super helpful.
Very good video demonstration
Great video! This helped me do my first hose bib replacement.
Great!
Why not use the threaded connection so if this happens again they can just thread in a new spigot? Also did you measure the level and make sure it drains out? That is a critical step and that could be why it froze up in the first place.
Good point!
Excellent instructions in this video.
Excellent Information! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. "God Wins" ❤️
Good day sir, hope you make videos like this, it's so informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for your kind words.
i enjoyed watching this. well done!
Im looking forward to your rebuild repair video
Great details/ installation.
I’m trying to teach my 17 year old.
Very well done I had to go thru almost the same on one i did
Thanks!
Great video! Nice graphics also. How did you know it was a sweat connect vs threaded from the outside? I need to replace an outside faucet and cannot tell - afraid to crank it with a wrench to see and risk breaking it.
Great video. Any thoughts on quarter turn valves vs the style you've got shown in this video? Thanks
Best video I've seen . tx so much.
What software do you use for drafting your plumbing videos ? I have a customer that I would like to demonstrate the planning/reviewing for his plumbing project 👍
Thank you for your videos! They are great
1st rate video! I have that same problem, but our kitchen cabinets were built around where the hose bib enters the house. 2 plumbers have looked at it and scratched their heads. Apparently, it cannot be replaced without tearing out some cabinetry. 😢
Excellent information!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you!!!!!
Nice video, I am trying to locate the heat barrier pad you used, not finding stick on types, thanks for any information you can share.
Great and thorough video. I’m confused thought because I didn’t see you adjust the slope. I thought the last one failed because it didn’t drain properly. Won’t this one fail too now?
There is an angled spacer that goes behind the faucet, which creates the slope.
Thank you so much for that super-helpful instructional.
Awesome stuff.
Excellent and informative - Thank you. My hose bib is leaking from the spindle when I turn it on EXACTLY as to your description of a burst pipe due to not disconnecting the hose BUT there is absolutely NO water coming into my inside wall where the housing passes through THANKFULLY.
Frankly, I'm baffled.
It's NOT coming from the packing nut. It LOOKS like it's shooting out from the holes in the spindle that turns (OPEN/CLOSE) within the housing of the hose bib assembly.
Excellent display
Awesome information!!!!! Thank you!!!!!
can you put the link for the heat pad
Nice video. Where did you get those adhesive heat pads, and what is the brand? Thanks
Mine isn't like that at all. Under a crawl space where I can't pull the pipe out and what I have there's no pulling the pipe out so I have cut the pipe where it is and try to install one where there's soldering.
Hey @Hammerpedia how did you know it was a sweat connection before cutting the drywall to see it? And along that same thought, is it possible to find out if you have a screw in without being able to see the line inside the house? (i.e behind drywall)
You cut the drywall to discover whether it's a screw fitting or other. You could do more damage if you start twisting from the outside when it's not a threaded connection. Good question.
Can you use pipe connections without soldering?
Nice job dad
Thanks Pugrolly 😁
Very well done video, thanks!!
Excellent explanation! Good work!
Great job. Do you have one for a leaky one of these?
Not yet, in the works.
more videos! your explanations are great!
That angle doesn't affect the join between the copper pipe and faucet when using shark bite??
Thanks a lot your video is very informative and helpful.
Bro--FWIW--I always use a big piece of white bread (no rust please!) to 'plug up' lines that have residual water in them before I solder. Like the line to your final coupling getting soldered. When done just turn on the water and the bread will liquify and disappear out the faucet when turned on.
I guess I'm gonna need to replace my outside spicket now!! Excellent video and WELL done!!! I'm receiving your emails now but forgot to subscribe!! Lol.
PS... I'm subscribed now!! 🙂😉👍
Thanks for subscribing :)
Perfect video
Amazing bro just hit the follow button 🎉🎉
Thanks
Your on the team.
Holy Christ dude youre the man
This is amazing video bro❤
My original spigot enters the basement JUST BELOW the plywood subfloor of the level above.
This prevents me from achieving any kind of slope away from the home.
In this situation, would I still a new hole, lower than the original spigots penetration, and then fill in the original penetration?
Very helpful video, thanks!
Gracias Primo 😂
Can I get advice? My Frost Free Faucet is leaking from what I discovered is called a "weep" hole. Your diagram does not show this feature. What should I replace?
Great vid
Freaking awesome video man!
Nice. New sub
Very helpful. Thank you!
I'm dealing with a Arrowhead hydrant with a leaky stem that is threaded on the inside as well as the outside. There is a 90 degree elbow attached to it with threads on the hydrant side and a soldered coupling to a copper pipe on the other end. Ideally I just need to replace the stem but there are no stem kits for the length hydrant so I need to purchase the whole thing. Theoretically I should be able to unscrew the old hydrant but it's tricky as I don't want to apply force to the elbow. Alternately I could just strip the stem out of the new hydrant and leave the existing body in place. I am still deciding what the best approach is.
Thanks for the information!!
Great video!
I just cannot locate the inside end of my freeze proof spigot for replacement. I know it's inside the utility area of my basement but I have no reference points and so many wires & pipes in a small location. Any tips?
Great presentation. Thanks.
GOLD... thank Brother!
Thanks a Bunch!
Great video! Thank you
Extremely white bread stuffed in the water pipe is helpful to keep it dry and dissolves with water flow.
What would the charge for something like this? I am not looking for a formal quote just curious. I was quoted a little over $500.
Crazy how he never posted again after this video
Thanks
I like to clean the pipe BEFORE i make the cut..;)
What’s this software?
sketchup
Where is the love button!!
I thought that was the whole point of a frost proof spigot so it don't break in the wall. I thought the shut off was inside the house. Good info with the pitch I never new that either but based on that and it still burst in the wall sounds like those are gimmicks and a waste of money ??
good
What if you have no leaks, but top of faucet is broke, has no cap for the top...
you just explain the obvios. what if you dont have accses behind the foucet how do you remove it without breaking the pipe can you explain that ???
Why not put a joint in where the faucet can screw on in case of another failure down the road then the drywall would not have to be cut out
Do you guys have an email? I’m interested in to buying one of your books but it’s not a physical book. I was wondering if that option is available instead of a digital copy?
Sorry we don't have a physical book at the moment, just the digital. hammerpedia.com/contact
awesome
Wait....so....should you not try to future proof that as much as possible for easier disassembly going forward? As a homeowner, I feel as though you should have utilized a different connection method(if it exists) for if ever the home owner is in this situation again. Now if it happens, the cutting procedure has to occur all over again. Is there not a design that us as homeowners can use that can just unscrew?? I noticed that there is threading on the pipe of the spigot, so that hints to me that there is. How come you didn't use that??