Mr. Wakefield! Awesome video. Thanks. May I suggest that you put the links to the ferg products you used in the description box. I am sure Ferguson will appreciate that!
Had to replace the one on the front of my house. Original was from 1987. Definitely was not at a downward angle, so even with a vacuum break, it still split the copper behind the brick. Turning on the faucet sprayed water out above the faucet and into the wall in the house. I bought a Prier 400 series to replace the Menards special and soldered it in. Didn't think about the downward angle though. It's parallel with the ground and mortared in. Do you think I should chip out the mortar and do it again?
This was an extremely helpful video. We have a leaking frost-free faucet that’s flowing water into our crawl space. We’ve had two plumbers out to figure this out. They both assured us that it was very unlikely that this was the problem. My wife and I figured it out on our own after they both left. Now we understand the problem, and we can speak the lingo with the repair guy when he gets out here. And we understand better how this may have happened and what the repair job will likely involve. We’re both lawyers (not plumbers), so we appreciate how the plumber in the video made it understandable for someone who doesn’t do this kind of thing for their day job.🙂
Man, I'm an IT Technician and Network Engineer, and this makes me want to work for you haha. Even the smallest things, you take the time to go the extra mile to ensure the best quality outcome. Even the angling of the pipe to make sure all of the water drains out is something that may never be noticed, but it's the tiny things that make all the difference.
Roger, I am genuinely impressed to see your level of concern for quality of workmanship for the entire repair. It is rare these days to hear that pride in craft and skill. Salute
4yrs an Apprentice, passed journeyman test, that was at 23. Now I’m a master plumber and I can go anywhere in the country get temporary reciprocal permit. I’m not sure what test you took.
Yep. I think I could handle replacing a threaded bib, but definitely not a soldered one. And I don't want to have to hammer out the mortar on the hose bib just to find out what I have.
I'm from Chicago and I've come across soldered hose bibs. instead of taking the whole thing out I swap out the internals as long as everything else is in tact. takes only a few minutes and like brand new. threaded I do exactly what you did. great job and great video as usual.
Years ago I converted my house to frost free faucets, well worth it. Before that I’d have to go around from inside the house and drain the lines and shutoff the section valves and drain the lines what pain. Also what I do is blow my hoses with compressed air to get the water out then rehook them up to the faucets in case I need to use them in the winter, but of course then I have to clear them again after every use. Clearing your outside hoses with compressed air in the winter lengthens your hose life tremendously.
I have no idea why UA-cam recommends your videos to me, and I have no idea what is going. But it is really satisfying and I feel like I've learned quite a bit from your videos thank you man.
Thank you sir! I had a frost free freeze up from a cold Oklahoma winter and I just found out when our guest bedroom flooded… now I am following your steps! Thank you for being such a great leader and instructor!
Never replaced one, but wondered how they worked and now I know. Having been a condo dweller in SoCal until about three years ago they never figured prominently in my life, but now I'm in ND and they do. What I learned today is that I'm correct in that I disconnect the hose in the winter, unlike a couple of my neighbors. Nice to know it's not a huge deal if it happens to break as things always eventually do.
Wetting the brick improves the mortar bond and prevents separation between the two as the temperatures fluctuate between freeze and thaw. Just a spray bottle of water works very well. If the tap's flange has holes to accept screws, install them into the brick, and if the hole is larger, insert rust proof screws into the flange holes before pointing the mortar into the cavity. The screws will be set when the mortar sets up.
@Samuel Lim Tell that to the plumbers who installed these on every single house in my neighborhood. ALL of them on the outside they filled with plumbers putty and nearly ALL of them it has dried out, or fallen out. Idiots.
Thanks, you saved me from a water disaster today and showed me I should just call a local plumber that knows what he's doing LOL, I can deal with the water shut off to that tap for a week or two till it gets properly fixed!
As a plumber just a smidge north of you in Tulsa, this video will be a money maker for us!!!!!! We re-pipe a ton of these where the home owner tries to unthread it from the exterior twisting the existing interior copper. Thanks bro!!!!
Just what I needed. One of mine burst a month ago and only realized it when I turned it on and saw water gushing from under the siding. It leaked from the handle/weep hole anyway, so wanted to fix it before it burst. Got a replacement assembly from a plumbing store, but discovered I needed 1/2" MIP instead of 3/4 MIP, and nobody in town carries the one I wanted. So ordered one online and did it a few days later. Also replaced the valve assembly in my other one, which also leaked. The actual process was shockingly easy! A plumbing outfit quoted me $300 per hose bib to repair, so I saved myself $540.
I’m from Illinois so our winters require a flawless freeze proof install, you never know what kind of fitting they hooked to the back of the sillcock plastic FIPT, couple of galvanized 90’s you might break loose taking it apart and cause a new leak... etc. so I always go the interior route cut open the wall get in the crawl space it doesn’t matter I need to be able to adapt to the water line properly and make sure it’s coming out of the wall with plenty of grade and that nothing is leaking near by cause you know it’ll be your fault lol. other then that if I were to have a void that small to fill you can mix that thicker and just ball it up in your fingers to pack it in and not make such a mess of the masonry.
Finally a video showing what to do with a threaded.. I heard it was easy, but had to double check. All other videos are too complex with cutting and what not. Thank you
Im not a plumber but do my own and help friends/ family. Since i heard use both tape and dope, I haven’t had any leaks on threads. Im now 53 years old and only learned that 2 years ago!
We have switched to using Aquor Brand hydrants. They have a super clean look and prevents theft of water. The downfall is the customers loose the garden hose adapter. We always suggest selling them an extra adapter. However we always have extra if they need them. They can come by or we can drop one off for them. This cold season was a test to them for sure. Not a single client where we installed them had a busted line. We keep a data base of our customers and called them weeks before to remind them to remove their hoses. Just calling them seems to generate additional simple sales and reminds them we are a plumbing company that cares. We are in the process of building an automated system by the customers preferred choice of contact (phone,text or email). Since the seats are no longer replaceable like the old school hydrants. I’d like to see companies go back to component based products but they aren’t about repairing but replacing nowadays.
I hate plumbing involving water. Oil lines- no problem. It really takes mental preparation before I attempt the task. Thanks for the video. Now I'm one step closer to replacing my bib.
Thank you, your work will help in getting two of these replaced in Michigan. Mine are 20+ years old and both leak. Unfortunately, mine look to be soldered so the research continues!
I never have your kind of luck. Had it been me, the moment I tried to turn that faucet the copper pipe it was attached to would likely twist and crack.
Thats why you have someone inside holding back. All my trucks have 2 guys. But if your alone. You cut it inside. 15 minutes my guys have per hosebib simple job
I replaced my spigot 2 years ago with a hot/cold model. I added a hot water line along with a better cold water setup. The old one was soldered and tee'd off of the main 3/4" line before the inside shut off and so I added individual valves. I was also replacing the house shutoff at the same time since it was leaking and inside a wall. I spent a decent amount of time in the crawlspace soldering and hanging pipe by myself but I'm happy with the results. I used backer rod and concrete caulk to finish the brick hole.
I've installed similar faucets and have always done it from inside the crawlspace where I soldered the faucet to the water line. When I saw you torquing the faucet pretty hard to remove it, I wondered what the pipe inside was anchored to that kept it from twisting and breaking. I kept thinking, "he needs a pipe wrench inside to keep the pipe from rotating as he unscrews the faucet." I thought the same thing as you were screwing the new one back on. So, my question is, what was the pipe inside anchored to that allowed you to twist that hard in both directions without harming the pipe? Thanks for an informative video.
I don't think he's really torquing the hose bib down that firmly onto the supply pipe. As far as the supply pipe, presumably that is run through a drilled hole in a stud and secured with pipe hangers or straps. I doubt very much the pipes are just flapping in the breeze, so to speak.
He mentioned that the fitting in the wall was a "drop ear 90". They are secured to a 2x4 with two screws to prevent the fitting from twisting. And he showed it in the video, but you had to know what you were looking for.
In case anyone missed it, it's very important to determine if the hose bib is screwed in or soldered. Frost free hose bibs are often soldered to the pipe. Attempting to unscrew the hose bib in that case will most likely cause damage to the pipe inside the wall.
Great video. I love watching your stuff! I plumb in Pennsylvania. The only thing I can think of that I would have done differently was add some type of tap tapcon to it to keep it from pulling/pushing through the mortar.
i think of it the same way as unscrewing the pipe for the shower from the wall. its iffy but it will either work or you will be cutting the wall anyway
Yes the one time I tried it without back up it twisted copper into the next stud. So now I open wall and install access panel and ball valve if they want it.
I have had those come out easy only to find the copper pipe spiraled behind it where I twisted it into.All depends on the install pex will just spin.And I'm glad you can know how to put teflon on right and I've taped and doped everything since day one why not
Oh! So that is what I have at my new house! I was wondering why the spigot was so big and green and like nothing I've seen before - this is good to know! Thanks!
Roger, you always pop up in my feed. I’ve never watched your videos. But after watching this video, I’m upset I haven’t started sooner! Great content, you explain everything well. I enjoyed it! Can’t wait for more! New subscriber!
Roger, the only thing I may have done differently is to dampen the brick prior to applying the mortar. That way the brick will not draw too much moisture out of the mortar as it cures. Great production otherwise!
Wondering why he didn't use hydraulic cement? (can also be mixed in very small batches; I once mixed a batch in a plastic zipper baggie). I suppose the mortar gives him more time to work with.
Watching all the stuff and care that is needed in temperate countries always makes me appreciate how much easier things are in tropical countries like mine, where you don't have winters harsh enough to freeze water pipes and whatnot. xD
Just your typical home owner, but maybe 1 or 2 things... 1. Use a piping bag or at least a plastic baggie with corner cut off to squeeze mortar in void. 2. maybe you couldn't get behind wall to hold where it screws in but I'd definitely try to hold before cranking down to loosen or tighten the frost proof sillcock. (Hopefully it's anchored down). Awesome tips on wedge and tape/dope! Thanks for another great video!
Roger with all due respect I disagree with how you finished the install. I think the morter was sloppy and in the end didn't give you anything solid to anchor the body of the faucet to My experience is that by not installing two screws in the holes provided in the escutcheon of the faucet you can end up with damage from someone pulling the hose or in rare cases over tightening and twisting the faucet. I always fill the gap with silicone but have developed a plate that I can slip over the stem of the faucet. I then attach the plate to the buildings brick, wood or whatever the material is and then screw that faucet to the plate. It's rock solid and looks good.
I agree. And in this instance, I would've taken the screws and atleast put them in the hole, and got mortar back in the hole more, so when the mortar set up the screws would be imbedded in the mortar like you screwed them into it. I do like your plate idea though. You could install the plate pre-install so when you get it all threaded on, you can screw right to the plate. It's all in prep work. I swear, plumbing is 90% prep, 10% work. Good idea though, and good catch!
I live in Michigan and we get below zero weather at some point every year. I have never needed this sort of faucet and I don't even drain my garden hoses. I have never seen an outdoor faucet freeze. When I do replace a faucet I cut the water pipe in the basement and use a section of PEX attached to the new faucet to come through the wall to where I cut the water line and join it there... Caulk does the rest and It looks good. Passed inspection when I sold the place.
I really wish they would install our outside wall hydrants where I live on drop ear 90s. Here it is usually just ½" copper with an MIP, no backing or support. So everyone we do we have to go through the drywall.
I've seen a lot of type M copper in the Dallas area. Gotta be very careful not to overtighten the hose bib to the correct alignment unless you open it up to put a back up wrench on it.
Not sure I have ever seen nor used type m... it's always k or L that I find and use on our sites. Maybe cuz I do more industrial plumbing than residential?
8:19....important step. I just had both of these replaced in my home (I live in the Midwest where it can get 20 below in the winter). I always disconnect my hoses and put a covers on before winter hits. Both of mine broke just behind the flange. So when I would turn the water on, it would run down the siding. The only thing I can think is, they were both pitched the wrong direction so the water couldn't drain.
Love your videos! I work in sales for a Plumbing & HVAC wholesaler in Canada, have never worked in the field, but I’ve learned so much more about the products we sell and their application just from watching your videos
I wish everyone of you sales guys could team up with one of your plumbers in the field for a week or two. It would be a great investment by your company. I have a small professional plumbing supplier in my area that is owned and staffed by former plumbers. One of them left the trade after a bad car accident that prevented him from plumbing in the field. At least one other is a retired plumber. They are my go-to guys for problem jobs.
As a southerner i never understood why someone would want to live somewhere that has freezing temps 6 months out of the year and brag about how awful it is lol
@@johnwatson6876 Not all of us brag about enduring the harsher climates. Frankly I don't know how you handle the heat. I just can't and summer is such a slump for me. Changing my shirt 4 times a day blows. I just chuckled at the short hosebibb because it took my brain a minute to process what was going on.
I love the content. My aunt worked for Ferguson when it was one store in Virginia years and years ago, but they've gotten too pricey for me we go to smaller plumbing distributors for most of our parts now. I love the idea of the frost frees and if you use them correctly they're great but I replace way more Frost frees than I do just regular sill cocks. I'm sure most of its owner error but we have to replace a bunch of those Frost frees that freeze in the winter then at some point in the summer somebody calls and says they hear water running when they're using their water hose because it's coming out the split in between the cinder blocks of their foundation or under the house.
@Samuel Lim i’ve been doing plumbing for 20 years. Service, multi-family, commercial, residential, and industrial. Yup I have no clue what I’m doing. It’s an honest reply even professionals can make mistakes.
Don’t know how the faucets are installed in Rogers state but don’t screw it off in Tennessee you will twist the copper into a licorice stick or snap off the cpvc only if it’s screwed into a stabilized earred L or galvanized pipe would I screw it off .
@@marksullivan3424 this is true but if no one is under floor holding the ‘roll’ the female adapter will just twist . This was an American made Arrowhead brand and probably would have been on for sometime before going bad . If this house is on a slab then codes may require an earred L inside the wall which if secured would work. All said if 5% of viewers replace their frost free this way then 90% of them won’t be happy
@Todd Lenard same here Arrowhead used to be type L not anymore and that damn o ring instead of a packing nut , I’ve been using the brown handle Woodford too , the design seems to be odd but works very well . I’m old as the hills but still working regularly, today I fixed a broken pipe at the meter, repaired an older a Delta tub faucet, then installed a lav faucet and pop up drain and I tell you , I liked fixing the broken pipe in the drizzle at 39 degrees better than the lav faucet job . I work alone as that’s the way my father taught me . Years ago we ran galvanized pipe and poured lead and oakum in cast iron . I’m in Columbia
Thanks for this video. I’ve got two of these I need to replace at my house and I’ve been dreading it because I didn’t know how to even start. Now I do. Good stuff
There's no way I would try to unscrew a frost free without cutting the drywall to see the pipe, If its soldered or cpvc you'd cause yourself a lot of trouble, even unscrewing one from copper is risky because you can break the joint and cause a leak inside of the wall that can cause a big problem for you or the company you work for.
Roger, nice replacement. The only thing I would have done differently was tape off the area before applying the mortar. Then peel the tape off when done to minimize the amount on the surrounding bricks. Thank you!
Whenever i swap something inside a wall or that invloves dirt or mortor i always take a portable wet vac and clear out the female threads. Probably not needed but better safe then screwed
Thank you for the video. I am a DIY an enjoy and have fun doing stuff. I followed the video. I replaced the washers and o rings at the tip of the stem to the frost free faucet. However ugh‼, some how the tip came off inside the pipe way at the end inside the house. I am at a loss on how to get it out. I tried a magnet and a spring claw. No Luck‼ Can you give me some suggestions on how to retrieve the tip and attach it back onto the stem❓Is it possible❓
Did this a few months ago, as a former cake decorator, I put my grout in a zip-top freezer bag(heavier duty) and snipped the bottom corner to pipe it in behind the flange
Roger, nice vid man. Please let me send you some HOSE BIB BUDDY plates to try. Much faster. No mortar. Looks Better. And being Aluminum and Magnesium, it protects the other components from galvanic corrosion. It also will hold the pitch of the frostproof without shims.
I went to an engineer's house and he wanted me to reduce down and install some half inch braided Flex lines in lieu of three-quarter inch Flex lines on his water heater because he already had the half inch flex lines so yeah listen to them engineers.
should have done what he wanted. and then when he called you back the next day b/c of hot water issues when multiple fixtures are being used, you could charge him again
Roger, thank you for your video. I’m a new home owner of a 6 yr old home . I have a frost proof anti-siphon spigot on an outdoor brick wall of my home. It leaks from the handle terribly, when the handle is turned on. All I can guess is that when it was installed the nut at the end of the stem was bent (I can see it bent, greatly) and so water leaks out whenever the handle is turned on to open the water spigot. And it’s very hard to turn the bent handle closed to stop the water and the leak. It should have been caught in the home inspection, but it wasn’t and now it’s my problem. I want to replace the whole assembly. It’s the same water faucet you replace in this video, a PROFLO frost proof anti siphon. But I can’t determine it’s length. The handle reads PROFLO 15D. So, I figured it’s 15 inches in length. So reads the faucet on the other side of the house. On the Ferguson website I can’t find any longer than 14inches. Nor can I find through multiple online searches. Is there a PROFLO 15? There must be, because the handle is manufacturer labeled that way. I don’t want to go through the situation of turning off the home water supply, remove the leaky assembly and find that I have no faucet assembly to install. You mention extensions , is that what I’m going to have to do? Or should I just call a professional?
Possible you might fix it by simply replacing the valve stem packing. However, if the nut is visibly bent or distorted as you say it is, why that could have come from people trying to crank down the nut with excessive force in a vain attempt to stop the leak. So have an idea for you. Instead of replacing the entire faucet assembly, buy a brand new one just like it. Mostly for the PARTS, like the packing nut. Swap out everything you can, but you leave the main body and tube of the original in place, thereby eliminating the need to change out the entire body. It should go without saying that anyone else reading this, and they have a leaking spigot due to freeze damage, now they will have to replace the entire unit.
my only concern is if this happens again, the little extension piece could end up stuck inside the wall when you go to remove it, meaning next time it might mean digging out a few bricks.
Thanks for teaching us. Im going to attempt this myself. Now I understand the inner parts of the faucet I can not see, now I can disassemble with confidence. You explained it very clearly. Thank you 😉
Have you ever replaced one of these?
Mr. Wakefield! Awesome video. Thanks. May I suggest that you put the links to the ferg products you used in the description box. I am sure Ferguson will appreciate that!
I've never actually had to deal with brick or mortar, but I think you should try using a piping bag.
once when i was 14
I think we dont have such valves in Europe. At least i haven't seen one.
Had to replace the one on the front of my house. Original was from 1987. Definitely was not at a downward angle, so even with a vacuum break, it still split the copper behind the brick. Turning on the faucet sprayed water out above the faucet and into the wall in the house. I bought a Prier 400 series to replace the Menards special and soldered it in. Didn't think about the downward angle though. It's parallel with the ground and mortared in. Do you think I should chip out the mortar and do it again?
whys this guy so wholesome?? Hes a genuinely nice dude whos just doin what he loves and its great.
I know right! One of his videos popped up in my recommended and I can’t stop watching him now 😂
If this guy and Jimbos garage got together for a video it would be wholesome overload
It’s that southern charm
Don't speak of it. Next thing you know he'll have a basement full of puppy butts. 😆
Thank you so much. I do love plumbing. It’s been great for me. I knew I wasn’t going to college so this was great for me.
This was an extremely helpful video. We have a leaking frost-free faucet that’s flowing water into our crawl space. We’ve had two plumbers out to figure this out. They both assured us that it was very unlikely that this was the problem. My wife and I figured it out on our own after they both left. Now we understand the problem, and we can speak the lingo with the repair guy when he gets out here. And we understand better how this may have happened and what the repair job will likely involve. We’re both lawyers (not plumbers), so we appreciate how the plumber in the video made it understandable for someone who doesn’t do this kind of thing for their day job.🙂
Exact same thing is happening to me right now. A pipe leaking water into the crawl space
Man, I'm an IT Technician and Network Engineer, and this makes me want to work for you haha. Even the smallest things, you take the time to go the extra mile to ensure the best quality outcome. Even the angling of the pipe to make sure all of the water drains out is something that may never be noticed, but it's the tiny things that make all the difference.
You can make more as a plumber haha. Or at least comp. I bring home well over $100,000 a year.
The manufacturer's installation instructions does recommend providing a slope to the pipe to aid in drainage.
Roger, I am genuinely impressed to see your level of concern for quality of workmanship for the entire repair. It is rare these days to hear that pride in craft and skill. Salute
20 years old, passed exams last january and now I'm an official plumber. Think I'm gonna enjoy this channel
What’s up bro I’m a plumber to what tests did you pass what state you live in?
4yrs an Apprentice, passed journeyman test, that was at 23. Now I’m a master plumber and I can go anywhere in the country get temporary reciprocal permit. I’m not sure what test you took.
@@carloscruz1112 Germany
@@bobwills4420 4 years! In Germany you have 3,5 years and honestly i think that's not enough.
They should make a symbol or some type of indicator to show whether it’s a threaded or solder.
I completely agree. We are trying to figure out that same thing. Very frustrating
100% agree
Yep. I think I could handle replacing a threaded bib, but definitely not a soldered one. And I don't want to have to hammer out the mortar on the hose bib just to find out what I have.
That would be too easy 😂
Are you crazy? That would make too much sense.
mortar in a tube would make your life easier for that last step. Just learned about it and its very accurate to apply and easy. Thanks for the video.
If I ever move to Dallas I know who to call to plumb my house. Roger is the man.
I like that you were able to take advice from someone and continue using it. Learning something new is never a bad thing.
You are an amazing teacher. That’s a real gift. To us!
I was taught by an old pipefitter to use both tape and dope on threads, *especially* stainless fittings. Never have a leak since I started doing it.
SAME
Yep, same here.
Yeah i always use both tape then dope
Works for propane fittings too.
I like this guy...no nonsense work, the kind of guy you actually want working on your home.
I’ve been a journeyman for 35 years and know professional work when I see it!!
Nice clean job!
I use that exact same “chisel” from Milwaukee 😀😀
"I've got some chisels here" *pulls put the biggest screwdriver he can find"
Bruh there is two types of people here, you who is actually a plumber and me who has never done plumbing in my life and finds it interesting 😂
I'm from Chicago and I've come across soldered hose bibs. instead of taking the whole thing out I swap out the internals as long as everything else is in tact. takes only a few minutes and like brand new. threaded I do exactly what you did. great job and great video as usual.
Years ago I converted my house to frost free faucets, well worth it. Before that I’d have to go around from inside the house and drain the lines and shutoff the section valves and drain the lines what pain. Also what I do is blow my hoses with compressed air to get the water out then rehook them up to the faucets in case I need to use them in the winter, but of course then I have to clear them again after every use. Clearing your outside hoses with compressed air in the winter lengthens your hose life tremendously.
I have no idea why UA-cam recommends your videos to me, and I have no idea what is going. But it is really satisfying and I feel like I've learned quite a bit from your videos thank you man.
Thank you sir! I had a frost free freeze up from a cold Oklahoma winter and I just found out when our guest bedroom flooded… now I am following your steps! Thank you for being such a great leader and instructor!
Hello from a fellow Oklahoman. What happened? Did you leave the hose attached during winter or was it caused by some other issue?
Never replaced one, but wondered how they worked and now I know. Having been a condo dweller in SoCal until about three years ago they never figured prominently in my life, but now I'm in ND and they do. What I learned today is that I'm correct in that I disconnect the hose in the winter, unlike a couple of my neighbors. Nice to know it's not a huge deal if it happens to break as things always eventually do.
I would suggest wetting down the existing brick before applying mortar. Helps is cure slower and it will be a stronger patch. Nice video.
Why not plumbers putty?
That's true and I would have tested for no leaks before applying my mortar.
Wetting the brick improves the mortar bond and prevents separation between the two as the temperatures fluctuate between freeze and thaw. Just a spray bottle of water works very well. If the tap's flange has holes to accept screws, install them into the brick, and if the hole is larger, insert rust proof screws into the flange holes before pointing the mortar into the cavity. The screws will be set when the mortar sets up.
@Samuel Lim Tell that to the plumbers who installed these on every single house in my neighborhood. ALL of them on the outside they filled with plumbers putty and nearly ALL of them it has dried out, or fallen out. Idiots.
Thanks, you saved me from a water disaster today and showed me I should just call a local plumber that knows what he's doing LOL, I can deal with the water shut off to that tap for a week or two till it gets properly fixed!
Just your average I.T. guy passing through, I guess I'm into plumbing now.
I read, "Just your average intellectual titty guy passing through..."
you're into clean plumbing, you should see some of the things we deal with.
Same LMAO!
Been in IT for almost 20 years. Just started my own handyman business!
This UA-cam algorithm apperently wants us IT guys to become a plumber, drain service, electrician, or an AC unit mechanic. Atleast, for me...
These must be unique to our area because I had trouble finding helpful videos. I’m in Dallas too. Thank you!
just did this to my house befor snowfall' 👍🏼 can we see a fully stocked van tour
As a plumber just a smidge north of you in Tulsa, this video will be a money maker for us!!!!!! We re-pipe a ton of these where the home owner tries to unthread it from the exterior twisting the existing interior copper. Thanks bro!!!!
Gotta love when the algorithm recommends excellent content. 👍🏽
Just what I needed. One of mine burst a month ago and only realized it when I turned it on and saw water gushing from under the siding. It leaked from the handle/weep hole anyway, so wanted to fix it before it burst.
Got a replacement assembly from a plumbing store, but discovered I needed 1/2" MIP instead of 3/4 MIP, and nobody in town carries the one I wanted. So ordered one online and did it a few days later. Also replaced the valve assembly in my other one, which also leaked.
The actual process was shockingly easy! A plumbing outfit quoted me $300 per hose bib to repair, so I saved myself $540.
I’m from Illinois so our winters require a flawless freeze proof install, you never know what kind of fitting they hooked to the back of the sillcock plastic FIPT, couple of galvanized 90’s you might break loose taking it apart and cause a new leak... etc. so I always go the interior route cut open the wall get in the crawl space it doesn’t matter I need to be able to adapt to the water line properly and make sure it’s coming out of the wall with plenty of grade and that nothing is leaking near by cause you know it’ll be your fault lol. other then that if I were to have a void that small to fill you can mix that thicker and just ball it up in your fingers to pack it in and not make such a mess of the masonry.
I like what some guy said. Put codes to identify the types you can't see. Makes too much sense though, I guess.
Finally a video showing what to do with a threaded.. I heard it was easy, but had to double check. All other videos are too complex with cutting and what not. Thank you
Glad this video made it easy for you 💪🏽👍🏽
I’ve always used tape and dope, it works beautifully
Same here. Was taught to me by my boss and it really works wonders. Ive never had a single threaded joint leak on me since I started doing it.
Im not a plumber but do my own and help friends/ family. Since i heard use both tape and dope, I haven’t had any leaks on threads. Im now 53 years old and only learned that 2 years ago!
11 year plumber I'm the bay area California. I show these videos to all the guys
Awesome tips, Living in Wisconsin these are a must!
Glad this video helped! How long are your frost proofs in Wisconsin? We used a 4 inch here, I'm sure yours are much longer
@@RogerWakefield
I have 14" (I think, might be 12) in my house in michigan.
@@RogerWakefield 10” - 12” are probably the most common we sell here in Ontario Canada
We have switched to using Aquor Brand hydrants. They have a super clean look and prevents theft of water. The downfall is the customers loose the garden hose adapter. We always suggest selling them an extra adapter.
However we always have extra if they need them. They can come by or we can drop one off for them. This cold season was a test to them for sure. Not a single client where we installed them had a busted line. We keep a data base of our customers and called them weeks before to remind them to remove their hoses. Just calling them seems to generate additional simple sales and reminds them we are a plumbing company that cares. We are in the process of building an automated system by the customers preferred choice of contact (phone,text or email). Since the seats are no longer replaceable like the old school hydrants. I’d like to see companies go back to component based products but they aren’t about repairing but replacing nowadays.
I use that Doyle screwdriver everyday. It's a prybar, chisel, and a flathead. Plus it has a lifetime warranty at harbor freight
Kind of guy you want. Takes pride in his work knowing the work is a reflection of the person.
I hate plumbing involving water. Oil lines- no problem. It really takes mental preparation before I attempt the task. Thanks for the video. Now I'm one step closer to replacing my bib.
Thank you, your work will help in getting two of these replaced in Michigan. Mine are 20+ years old and both leak. Unfortunately, mine look to be soldered so the research continues!
Man your videos are in the same category in Louis Rossmann. I will probably never do these kind of things, but it's so nice to see and calming.
Im about to start as a helper for well known plumber here in LA and I am watching your helpful tips thank you for content .. 🤜🤛
Good luck!
I never have your kind of luck. Had it been me, the moment I tried to turn that faucet the copper pipe it was attached to would likely twist and crack.
Thats why you have someone inside holding back. All my trucks have 2 guys. But if your alone. You cut it inside. 15 minutes my guys have per hosebib simple job
That part didn't make it to air, along with the F bombs when it happened!
Lol, are you me ? That’s exactly the kind of luck I have.
Oh good, I thought that only happened to me. Every “simple and quick” repair becomes a multiple trip to Home Depot and two day repair. UGH!
I replaced my spigot 2 years ago with a hot/cold model. I added a hot water line along with a better cold water setup. The old one was soldered and tee'd off of the main 3/4" line before the inside shut off and so I added individual valves. I was also replacing the house shutoff at the same time since it was leaking and inside a wall. I spent a decent amount of time in the crawlspace soldering and hanging pipe by myself but I'm happy with the results. I used backer rod and concrete caulk to finish the brick hole.
I've installed similar faucets and have always done it from inside the crawlspace where I soldered the faucet to the water line. When I saw you torquing the faucet pretty hard to remove it, I wondered what the pipe inside was anchored to that kept it from twisting and breaking. I kept thinking, "he needs a pipe wrench inside to keep the pipe from rotating as he unscrews the faucet." I thought the same thing as you were screwing the new one back on. So, my question is, what was the pipe inside anchored to that allowed you to twist that hard in both directions without harming the pipe? Thanks for an informative video.
I don't think he's really torquing the hose bib down that firmly onto the supply pipe. As far as the supply pipe, presumably that is run through a drilled hole in a stud and secured with pipe hangers or straps. I doubt very much the pipes are just flapping in the breeze, so to speak.
He mentioned that the fitting in the wall was a "drop ear 90". They are secured to a 2x4 with two screws to prevent the fitting from twisting. And he showed it in the video, but you had to know what you were looking for.
In case anyone missed it, it's very important to determine if the hose bib is screwed in or soldered. Frost free hose bibs are often soldered to the pipe. Attempting to unscrew the hose bib in that case will most likely cause damage to the pipe inside the wall.
Great video. I love watching your stuff! I plumb in Pennsylvania. The only thing I can think of that I would have done differently was add some type of tap tapcon to it to keep it from pulling/pushing through the mortar.
Yep! Tapcon it into the brick if it aligns or put the Tapcons in the flange holes when your point the mortar in.
Thanks!
I've always cut into the wall to replace hydrants. I'm always paranoid about twisting the copper if I don't put a backup wrench on where it screws in.
Yeah same here! It’s definitely risky!
Me too. I'd like to see the results of him doing that on a line plumbed with old cpvc, haha.
i think of it the same way as unscrewing the pipe for the shower from the wall. its iffy but it will either work or you will be cutting the wall anyway
Diego Diaz yeah or an old galvanized pipe....
Yes the one time I tried it without back up it twisted copper into the next stud. So now I open wall and install access panel and ball valve if they want it.
I have had those come out easy only to find the copper pipe spiraled behind it where I twisted it into.All depends on the install pex will just spin.And I'm glad you can know how to put teflon on right and I've taped and doped everything since day one why not
On pex systems alot of guys are putting loops at the frostproof and you can just pull the extra out and replace it.
^^^ this. that's what we did
Oh! So that is what I have at my new house! I was wondering why the spigot was so big and green and like nothing I've seen before - this is good to know! Thanks!
Have you ever tried an Icing bag or Frosting bag to squeeze in the mortar in behind.
or cut the corner off a quart freezer bag. I was thinking the same for a cleaner, more accurate application.
The hardware stores sell a heavy duty mortar bag that works the same way. A thin "brick pointing trowel" will also get it in there with less mess.
Roger, you always pop up in my feed. I’ve never watched your videos. But after watching this video, I’m upset I haven’t started sooner! Great content, you explain everything well. I enjoyed it! Can’t wait for more! New subscriber!
Roger, the only thing I may have done differently is to dampen the brick prior to applying the mortar. That way the brick will not draw too much moisture out of the mortar as it cures. Great production otherwise!
Wondering why he didn't use hydraulic cement? (can also be mixed in very small batches; I once mixed a batch in a plastic zipper baggie). I suppose the mortar gives him more time to work with.
@@markh.6687 great suggestion with the baggie, and then just snip the corner and it can be used as a grout bag for easy application.
Watching all the stuff and care that is needed in temperate countries always makes me appreciate how much easier things are in tropical countries like mine, where you don't have winters harsh enough to freeze water pipes and whatnot. xD
I am fixing to start a plumbing apprenticeship and I’ve been learning so much from Roger! Thank you sir!
How's it going now?
Thanks you for helping us DIY people!
You're welcome! Are you planning on replacing a frost proof on your own?
Roger, you and your show is awesome! You make learning about plumbing fun!
Just your typical home owner, but maybe 1 or 2 things...
1. Use a piping bag or at least a plastic baggie with corner cut off to squeeze mortar in void.
2. maybe you couldn't get behind wall to hold where it screws in but I'd definitely try to hold before cranking down to loosen or tighten the frost proof sillcock. (Hopefully it's anchored down).
Awesome tips on wedge and tape/dope! Thanks for another great video!
Roger with all due respect I disagree with how you finished the install. I think the morter was sloppy and in the end didn't give you anything solid to anchor the body of the faucet to
My experience is that by not installing two screws in the holes provided in the escutcheon of the faucet you can end up with damage from someone pulling the hose or in rare cases over tightening and twisting the faucet.
I always fill the gap with silicone but have developed a plate that I can slip over the stem of the faucet. I then attach the plate to the buildings brick, wood or whatever the material is and then screw that faucet to the plate. It's rock solid and looks good.
I agree. And in this instance, I would've taken the screws and atleast put them in the hole, and got mortar back in the hole more, so when the mortar set up the screws would be imbedded in the mortar like you screwed them into it.
I do like your plate idea though. You could install the plate pre-install so when you get it all threaded on, you can screw right to the plate. It's all in prep work. I swear, plumbing is 90% prep, 10% work.
Good idea though, and good catch!
@@Chris.Rhodes - Hey thanks man I appreciate it.
Agree he to the easy way instead of cutting inside and solder a new one that was flush and secured to the brick!
I live in Michigan and we get below zero weather at some point every year. I have never needed this sort of faucet and I don't even drain my garden hoses. I have never seen an outdoor faucet freeze. When I do replace a faucet I cut the water pipe in the basement and use a section of PEX attached to the new faucet to come through the wall to where I cut the water line and join it there... Caulk does the rest and It looks good. Passed inspection when I sold the place.
I really wish they would install our outside wall hydrants where I live on drop ear 90s. Here it is usually just ½" copper with an MIP, no backing or support. So everyone we do we have to go through the drywall.
Thanks for this. Very helpful to a new homeowner.
as a stone installer, id mask it so you dont make such a big mess of the brick work. but the plumbing part is on you (:
Mask it?
@@Superguapo100 put tape or covering to prevent mortar getting on the finished surface
As a mason, I'd just use a tucker, problem solved.
I was thinking the same thing. Clean install except for the mortar.
I've seen a lot of type M copper in the Dallas area. Gotta be very careful not to overtighten the hose bib to the correct alignment unless you open it up to put a back up wrench on it.
Not sure I have ever seen nor used type m... it's always k or L that I find and use on our sites. Maybe cuz I do more industrial plumbing than residential?
I agree 100 percent Plus clean up the cement a little better
8:19....important step. I just had both of these replaced in my home (I live in the Midwest where it can get 20 below in the winter). I always disconnect my hoses and put a covers on before winter hits. Both of mine broke just behind the flange. So when I would turn the water on, it would run down the siding. The only thing I can think is, they were both pitched the wrong direction so the water couldn't drain.
Seems like a video to share with everyone in Texas that was affected by the snow/freeze
you are the epitome of what a first class plumber should b , Hard work, Smart work, Team work. thanks for your Vlog RW... and i did Sub, Mac
Love your videos! I work in sales for a Plumbing & HVAC wholesaler in Canada, have never worked in the field, but I’ve learned so much more about the products we sell and their application just from watching your videos
I wish everyone of you sales guys could team up with one of your plumbers in the field for a week or two. It would be a great investment by your company. I have a small professional plumbing supplier in my area that is owned and staffed by former plumbers. One of them left the trade after a bad car accident that prevented him from plumbing in the field. At least one other is a retired plumber. They are my go-to guys for problem jobs.
As a northerner those short hose bibs made me chuckle ;)
We are packing in the north
@@xftbllplyr2091 They are pretty cute looking.
Meanwhile I've modified ones to be 3' long and go through stone foundations.
As a southerner i never understood why someone would want to live somewhere that has freezing temps 6 months out of the year and brag about how awful it is lol
@@johnwatson6876 6 months? I think you are thinking of our friends in the artic circle
@@johnwatson6876 Not all of us brag about enduring the harsher climates. Frankly I don't know how you handle the heat. I just can't and summer is such a slump for me. Changing my shirt 4 times a day blows.
I just chuckled at the short hosebibb because it took my brain a minute to process what was going on.
Glad I found this video. Wish me good luck I get to do this tomorrow
Good luck!
I wrap my barrel with pvc tape. To protect fixture when passing through walls.
I love the content. My aunt worked for Ferguson when it was one store in Virginia years and years ago, but they've gotten too pricey for me we go to smaller plumbing distributors for most of our parts now. I love the idea of the frost frees and if you use them correctly they're great but I replace way more Frost frees than I do just regular sill cocks. I'm sure most of its owner error but we have to replace a bunch of those Frost frees that freeze in the winter then at some point in the summer somebody calls and says they hear water running when they're using their water hose because it's coming out the split in between the cinder blocks of their foundation or under the house.
A good way to get the mortar into that joint is to use a ziplock bag and cut a corner off. Use it like a tube of caulk.
I appreciate the pride that you have in your work.
It's fun when the rough in guys barely secured the drop ear ell and it spins on you inside the wall lol
My thoughts exactly and how do we know if he tightened it up enough to not have a drip in the wall?
@Samuel Lim i’ve been doing plumbing for 20 years. Service, multi-family, commercial, residential, and industrial. Yup I have no clue what I’m doing. It’s an honest reply even professionals can make mistakes.
Great instructional video, Roger. Thank you.
Very welcome
I would have used a wet sponge to clean up my mortar a little nicer and get the excess off the brick.
Good job sir. I work for Ferguson in Houston.
Don’t know how the faucets are installed in Rogers state but don’t screw it off in Tennessee you will twist the copper into a licorice stick or snap off the cpvc only if it’s screwed into a stabilized earred L or galvanized pipe would I screw it off .
Same in Pennsylvania
That’s because whoever installed it sweat on a female adapter, so the hose bib just threads into it. Makes changing it out that much easier
Most seasoned plumbers don’t want mechanical connections (female adapter) inside of a blind wall when it could be a soldered connection
@@marksullivan3424 this is true but if no one is under floor holding the ‘roll’ the female adapter will just twist . This was an American made Arrowhead brand and probably would have been on for sometime before going bad . If this house is on a slab then codes may require an earred L inside the wall which if secured would work. All said if 5% of viewers replace their frost free this way then 90% of them won’t be happy
@Todd Lenard same here Arrowhead used to be type L not anymore and that damn o ring instead of a packing nut , I’ve been using the brown handle Woodford too , the design seems to be odd but works very well . I’m old as the hills but still working regularly, today I fixed a broken pipe at the meter, repaired an older a Delta tub faucet, then installed a lav faucet and pop up drain and I tell you , I liked fixing the broken pipe in the drizzle at 39 degrees better than the lav faucet job . I work alone as that’s the way my father taught me . Years ago we ran galvanized pipe and poured lead and oakum in cast iron . I’m in Columbia
Your craftsmanship is top notch.
Thanks brother 🤙🏼
"I got a couple of little chisels here." Or as non-plumbers call them, screwdrivers.
And many auto mechanics call them pry drivers.
I keep a sharpened flat screwdriver in my bag for small little chisel jobs lol
It is a flat head screwdriver
the had metal butt plates on them, ive never bought a screw driver that had that. those are likely chisels.
look up "Milwaukee Demo Driver", its got a steel core and a metal plate for hammering, its more of a chisel pry that doubles as a flat head.
Thanks for this video. I’ve got two of these I need to replace at my house and I’ve been dreading it because I didn’t know how to even start. Now I do. Good stuff
There's no way I would try to unscrew a frost free without cutting the drywall to see the pipe, If its soldered or cpvc you'd cause yourself a lot of trouble, even unscrewing one from copper is risky because you can break the joint and cause a leak inside of the wall that can cause a big problem for you or the company you work for.
I all ways back it up from inside myself
Our company won't do it without cutting drywall either. I'm in VA. Alot of cpvc
Roger, nice replacement. The only thing I would have done differently was tape off the area before applying the mortar. Then peel the tape off when done to minimize the amount on the surrounding bricks. Thank you!
Whenever i swap something inside a wall or that invloves dirt or mortor i always take a portable wet vac and clear out the female threads. Probably not needed but better safe then screwed
Or more like *_not screwed_*
I'll see myself out..
@@FappinSteve go drunk you're home!
Thank you for the video. I am a DIY an enjoy and have fun doing stuff. I followed the video. I replaced the washers and o rings at the tip of the stem to the frost free faucet. However ugh‼, some how the tip came off inside the pipe way at the end inside the house. I am at a loss on how to get it out. I tried a magnet and a spring claw. No Luck‼ Can you give me some suggestions on how to retrieve the tip and attach it back onto the stem❓Is it possible❓
Did this a few months ago, as a former cake decorator, I put my grout in a zip-top freezer bag(heavier duty) and snipped the bottom corner to pipe it in behind the flange
Nice
Thanks for the great idea!!
The hardware stores do sell a heavy duty "squeeze bag" for mortar that almost identical to the type used for cake decorating.
New homeowner.. stumbled onto your channel.. ty for the info and content
Never seen a 4" NFHB, only 12" or bigger.
i guess not everything is bigger in texas lol
Same here, did a double take when that thing came out of the wall
The Canadian flag says it all in the profile pic says it all. World of difference between Dallas and Winnipeg
What’s the bury depth of a water line up there
@@guynametyler Its not the flag, but it is the leaf lmfao
Hey I thought that camera looked familiar. I have an A6400 myself. addicted to watching your videos..... no reason why.
The only thing I would have done is checked for leaks before mortaring the wall. That’s it.
Roger, nice vid man. Please let me send you some HOSE BIB BUDDY plates to try. Much faster. No mortar. Looks Better. And being Aluminum and Magnesium, it protects the other components from galvanic corrosion. It also will hold the pitch of the frostproof without shims.
I went to an engineer's house and he wanted me to reduce down and install some half inch braided Flex lines in lieu of three-quarter inch Flex lines on his water heater because he already had the half inch flex lines so yeah listen to them engineers.
should have done what he wanted. and then when he called you back the next day b/c of hot water issues when multiple fixtures are being used, you could charge him again
@@jgg204 We'll see I am a plumber rather than a handy man so I couldn't do that
Roger, thank you for your video. I’m a new home owner of a 6 yr old home . I have a frost proof anti-siphon spigot on an outdoor brick wall of my home. It leaks from the handle terribly, when the handle is turned on. All I can guess is that when it was installed the nut at the end of the stem was bent (I can see it bent, greatly) and so water leaks out whenever the handle is turned on to open the water spigot. And it’s very hard to turn the bent handle closed to stop the water and the leak. It should have been caught in the home inspection, but it wasn’t and now it’s my problem. I want to replace the whole assembly. It’s the same water faucet you replace in this video, a PROFLO frost proof anti siphon. But I can’t determine it’s length. The handle reads PROFLO 15D. So, I figured it’s 15 inches in length. So reads the faucet on the other side of the house. On the Ferguson website I can’t find any longer than 14inches. Nor can I find through multiple online searches. Is there a PROFLO 15? There must be, because the handle is manufacturer labeled that way. I don’t want to go through the situation of turning off the home water supply, remove the leaky assembly and find that I have no faucet assembly to install. You mention extensions , is that what I’m going to have to do? Or should I just call a professional?
Possible you might fix it by simply replacing the valve stem packing. However, if the nut is visibly bent or distorted as you say it is, why that could have come from people trying to crank down the nut with excessive force in a vain attempt to stop the leak. So have an idea for you. Instead of replacing the entire faucet assembly, buy a brand new one just like it. Mostly for the PARTS, like the packing nut. Swap out everything you can, but you leave the main body and tube of the original in place, thereby eliminating the need to change out the entire body. It should go without saying that anyone else reading this, and they have a leaking spigot due to freeze damage, now they will have to replace the entire unit.
I’d be really surprised if you could actually see in that tiny opening given how dark it is and how long the hydrant is.
I’m guessing he has one of those snake inspection cameras. All you need is a 1/2” hole and you can sneak it in there.
Nice to see your still out on the field
my only concern is if this happens again, the little extension piece could end up stuck inside the wall when you go to remove it, meaning next time it might mean digging out a few bricks.
my man this is the best video i’ve seen on this. good job with the dope and tape.
"this 4 inch is longer than that 4 inch" or as I put is, "someone had big/small feet"
Like having 13 different sizes of "XL" t-shirts.
@@chrisolson7546 except "XL" isn't a standard measurement.
Thanks for teaching us. Im going to attempt this myself. Now I understand the inner parts of the faucet I can not see, now I can disassemble with confidence. You explained it very clearly. Thank you 😉
You need to get behind that wall and inspect that joint for leaks before you walk away from the job son.
Right?? How is that professional. If it was CPVC, PEX, or Galvanized: this dude's got a leak.