Outdoor Spigot Replacement | Sharkbite Frost Free
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Sharkbite Frost Free Outdoor Faucet (12") : amzn.to/3qFseE3
Replacing an outdoor spigot can be an intimidating job for many homeowners but it doesn't have to be a difficult job. I will show you how I replaced my old outdoor spigot only using Sharkbite parts and the existing copper pipes.
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I'm surprised you didn't add a SharkBite shutoff valve, you if you ever have any problems with the outdoor faucet, you can just shut the water off to that particular faucet. Great Video..
Thank you. JC
I have to replace my outdoor spigot also, but it is a the bottom of the list. It leaks so much outside, sometimes we can't tell if the water is on/off. Eventually, it all drains, but water outside is an enemy in the North. Mine goes inside to a finished part of the basement, but I may have access. I will have to add some of these details for when I'm ready to tackle. Thanks for the perfect pace of your videos.
Thanks for the video, by watching it, I realized I needed some stuff like the weather caulking and sandpaper.
Yes, absolutely interested in the other spigots. Mainly for tracing the line & finding it on the interior side.
I'm here because our spigot is dripping. 💦 And it is driving me nuts. 🚗 🥜 🔩 I can't stand all of this. I guess I'm going to have to go to the hardware store tomorrow. 🔧 I really wish things like this didn't happen. 🌠 But, that's how the cookie crumbles. 🍪
Another winner here Scott. I was a little worried until you cleaned up the pipes. I’ve used SharkBite push to fit, and they have leaked, due to my error. All pipes must be burr free, inside as well as outside, so glad you covered that. I’m not a big fan of them, but feel they have their place, and make a good temporary fix. I’ve used the stops, on pipes I would have to come back to work on, and allow the water to be cut back on. I’ve got an outside spigot that needs to be replaced, but it should be relatively easy? It’s a frost free design, and it runs directly into the plumbing with a compression fitting. I just can’t tell what size I need, so I will buy a 10 and 12 inch spigot. There is a secondary cut off ( gate valve ) but it’s locked on tight. Sediment and some corrosion I’m sure, but PB blaster, WD 40, nothing will loosen it. I can just cut off the main ball valve at the utility area. I think your idea on other types of installs would be good. BTW, I just picked up the Klein NCVT you rec’d in a recent video, and it’s the best non contact tester I’ve used, so big Thanks for that! 👍👍👍😁✌🏻
Hey George, sounds like you got a nice little project ahead of you. 😁
My parents had the same issue with one of their outdoor spigots.
When I replaced it, I also added a cut-off switch just before the spigot in case I had to replace it again, just so I didn't have to turn off the entire house's water (like I had to do the first time :)
In addition, I also added a small drop-down "box" over the entire area with a "door" that opened, giving access to the entire area (this too was in a finished ceiling). Painted, it more or less blended in (being in the corner helped too).
Yeah, I added a dedicated shut off inside my house when I replaced my spigot. I have one main shut off, and that's it. I don't have dedicated shut offs. Whoever plumbed my house was an idiot.
i always add extra shut offs for water or gas whenever i have to take something apart. they always come in handy later on.
@@feelingtardy but adds another failure point, no?
@@wolfeadventures I'm in a house that will be 100 years old next year. Things done right can last a very, very, long time without aver failing.
I didn't know sharkbite made those, thanks. My lines have shutoff valves inside house so when the spigot starts leaking I can just shut it off, until I can fix it.
Nice! That is handy to have shutoff in place.
If your wanting the spigot to last longer, you would install a shut off valve with a bleeder valve especially if your in the northern Canadian winters.
Thanks for the feedback/advice!
Yeah, I was really surprised he didn't simultaneously install an isolation valve. A small effort to avoid bigger potential problems down the road, whether the basement is finished or not!
I would like to see how to replace the spigot in the finished area of the basement. Thanks for your great videos.
Can’t wait to replace these!! remove the hose bib and solder a new one on easy money! Cheap out now means you pay later!
I would love to see how to do this with a brick house that is on a slab.
That would be a good one, thanks for the feedback 👍
Same thing except you might need a hammer drill and masonry screws
My understanding was Infin1ty was talking about plumbing through the slab as opposed to open air in the basement like the video. If that's the case, it would be quite different.
All depends on how the plumber decided to do it. It should be just a matter of cutting the water off(draining)and unscrewing it. We'd always screw a drop eared elbow to a purlin, and stub out a galvanized nipple. Most do it this way, but have seen a little bit of everything.
Open outside spigot after closing water supply and opening drain valve to break vacuum. Less water left in pipe.
Thanks for the feedback!
Hi Scott. Very nice step-by-step video! I have 2 suggestions: yes, while you spoke about deburing the outside of the pipe, it is also important to debur the inside of the pipe to stop water turbulence and possible banging from all of those burrs especially when cutting with a hacksaw. Secondly, I would put a pipe clamp on the 2x4 just before the SharkBite to give the whole assembly more support. Yes, I would interested in the drywall plumbing project too! Thanks!
I would have just soldered it in that location as there is ease of access but nice to know that they have shark bite spigots.
I would like to see a video covering replacement of the shut-off valve. My house was built mid 70's and the valve doesn't work, as well as being in a horrible location. I know I could hire a plumber, but with my experience I would also love to do the job. But as I do with everything, pre task planning dictates I should probably make sure the steps I have in my head are accurate.
Thanks for another great video!
Unless your good at soldering I don't recommend a large fitting like that, depending on age could be a screw on though. If the area is finished think of the damage that could be caused. I am fairly good at plumbing and do a small amount in a professional capacity, I would still hire it out for the peace of mind personally unless it was a trailer or screw on in an unfinished basement.
@@stich1960 It's currently soldered, but looks like it was probably "wet" while being done. More than likely replaced already. We have lived there for 21 years and it has been crap for at least a couple years.
I have checked with a couple local places (small and large business) and they want $500 plus to do it. That just seems silly. I can call the utilities to shut off the water and that's only $35 (off and on). I'm more than able to solder, but I have never done a soldered valve before. I do agree though, when I have enough doubt or have failed at similar jobs I call someone. Ex: replacement of a fuse panel, not gonna do it. Lol. The knowledge is there but the risk is high enough that's it is worth hiring it out.
@@Toyotajunkie I mean you do you. It's fairly risky imo around here it's hourly and would probably be closer to 300+ parts. I would still do it if it's finished at 500 because it comes with insurance
You can do the exact same steps with a shark bite ball valve and use pex instead of copper eliminating the soldering aspect. Would cost you around $100 hose bib, ball valve, and pex. As long as the angle from ball valve to hose bib isn't crazy you won't need to crimp anything.
I don’t mean to nitpick but you did miss one important step and a lot of people don’t do this step but it’s extremely important. That is measuring and marking the insertion depth on the copper pipe for the shark bite fitting. I think it’s 15/16 for half inch fittings and one in the eighth for three-quarter but verify those. It’s important because you can push the fitting on until it pops and stops and think you’re at hey solid seat but not actually be there. I marked the pipe once and push the sitting on and it popped and stopped. I looked at the mark I had made to ensure proper insertion depth and it wasn’t all the way on so I pushed harder and then it did go to the Mark for a solid seat. So that convince me that marking the pipe first prior to pushing the shark bite fitting on is extremely important to avoid leaks.
Hey Steve, thanks for the comment and call out as you are right and I did miss calling out the depth during the final install. Take care!
It isn't nitpicking if you provide constructive criticism in a positive respectful manner, as you did here. Thanks for adding that important tidbit!!
There's actually a tool put out by Sharkbite that will deburr and measure the insertion depth for you. Handy thing to have.
@@DireNeeds yes I have the orange tool that measures and deburrs the outer side but you also need the pen with blades tool for the inside. Both are only about $30 all together at a building store
Very important, makes it full proof
Yes I would be interested in seeing the other spigots!
Over the years I have decided that if it's outdoors or wet areas I use stainless steel bolts / fasteners. Yes they cost more, but they save so many headaches down the road.
Here's how I would have done it. De-sweat the hose faucet from the street elbow, retrieve a matching length from the truck, clean street elbow and sweat on the new bibb. It's actually less work and less money than what you did. But hey what do I know I'm just a licensed master plumber LOL
I just installed the shark bite frost free spigot. It works but is extremely hard to turn. I called tech support and waited 3 minutes and 50 seconds at which point I was disconnected. Disappointing, I will probably return it.
Since you cut the pipe, why not put a shut off valve right before it? (Since you had to shut off the whole house?)
No reason to ever use shark bites. I deal with removing shark bites daily from homes that leak. Homeowners dont know better, but plumbers do. If you absolutely cant afford to do it right with solder, use a compression by compression ball valve.
Don't be scared, 1/2 is super easy to sweat
Nice job and video like always
Thanks Donnie!
I watched 4 videos before I got to yours. Wish I had found it first. Exactly my issue and you made it look super simple. Great step-by-step instructions. Thanks!
i been a plumber for 35 years, you wasted alot of time playing with that copper elbow you could have just got 2 shark bite couplers and a piece of pex to put in between, the easy way, way easier then your way, pex bends the way you want it,
Yes, I'm interested in seeing the hard to reach spigots. It sounds like a good thing to learn.
Same here, I'd be interested in seeing the handling of that hard to reach spigots.
Thanks for the video. But what if you have no access to the inside? I mean that mine are going in cement blocks... The house was built in the 70s. I am guessing that they routed the pipes in the blocks. Can a spigot be removed and replaced from the outside? Is there a risk that the spigots are just soldered, not threaded?
Good video. I've used these on two spigots and both failed. They didn't fail on the pipe connection but on the outside at the chrome cap (vacuum break) on the top. You mentioned here what I didn't know at the time and that is you MUST disconnect your hose before they freeze. If I had read the directions (my bad) I would have realized this and saved myself the time and hassle of having to replace them.
I second the drywall plumbing project video. Thank you helping all of the DIYers who could never afford hiring a plumber for these projects.
As a handyman/renovator in Canada, I am not a fan of the frost free wall hydrants, with or without the vacuum breaker. I've installed dozens and most never last more than 3 to 5 years. The majority are off-shore junk and parts, other than a replacement washer, are rarely available. I prefer the older KISS system (Keep It Simple Stupid). My 1928 home has three exterior spigots mounted through the poured concrete foundation wall. All are simple quality solid brass spigots. These valves now typically sell for about $8 compared to $55 for the newer 'frost free' type. I have repaired all three brass valves once during the last 46 years and one valve has just be repaired for it's second time. (Clean, replace washer and replace bonnet packing). I will recondition the other two spigots some time this summer, then they will all be good for the next 50 years. Canadian building codes require every external faucet to have a separate interior shut off valve with a bleeder valve. It takes about 2 minutes each fall to turn off the inside shut-off valve, bleed the excess water that remains between the inside and outside valves and leave the exterior valve open for the winter to prevent freezing when the temps sink to minus 30. I never plan to replace an outside spigot.
Along the lines of your reply, you don't have to drill a big hole for the conventional spigots. And I found one that is made with a ball valve. I installed that on the outside of my in-law's house. I think ball valves are easier to use for the elderly.
@@AStanton1966 I'm a big fan of 1/4 turn, full port ball valves for almost all valve requirements. Superior as an on/off shut-off valve, but not well suited for applications requiring throttling to control flow. Still works very well for outdoor faucets because throttling can be done at the hose nozzle.
Fabulous remarks. Big smile
@@AStanton1966 Aren't ball valves easier to turn for EVERYbody?
@@kooale I suppose. Frost-free valves, having a longer valve stem, tend to drip a lot before shutting down. This makes people want to kill the valve and over-tighten them.
Make sure you mark the pipe to receive the sharkbite fitting so you are sure you have pushed this fitting 1 inch onto the pipe receiving this fitting. Anything short of this will cause a leak😥
Good call as I mentioned the 1" depth for reference in my cut but I did not come back and mark the pipe later in the install. Appreciate the feedback!
Thank you thank you thank you!
I am a senior widow in the woods so to speak and your video was so informative and educational . I hesitate to call plumbers unless in an emergency because of the expense as I am on SS . I would like to know more about those Shark Bite copper fittings .
Yes, I have a finished basement and need to end in the wall.
I would like to see the video where you have to cut into the cealing
I have a manufactured home that has all PEX plumbing and I always use the Sharkbite system. I absolutely love it because its so simple ands easy to use.
Can't beat it, takes alot of work away from plumbers tho🤫
*The world could always use more bartenders.* 🤷🏾♀️
What are you talking about. Why would we quit the plumbing when there’s all that work repairing failed shark bites
Instead of a cap, I put a Sharkbite in line valve.
Love your videos.. great for home owners uses. And yes, you should include deburing and also a marked measurement of the fitting 15/16” so proper seating is achieved. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and information so handy guys could help themselves
We have textured walls in our house on a slab, so that other video sounds very useful!
Do you get ripped for using shark bites? I have two videos with shark bites in them and man oh man...they come for ya.
Hahaha, oh yeah you will actually get both sides of the coin when it comes to Sharkbites. Seems like nobody is in the middle. Either love or hate them.
Good job. I would emphasize the importance of ensuring a downward slope on the faucet, because you do not want standing water freezing inside your expensive faucet!
BTW, the original soldering job exhibited poor craftsmanship. The green corrosion products were due to the original acid soldering flux NOT being cleaned off the copper pipe.
Thanks for the feedback Bill
Thanks for the video this was well made and very helpful. Two opinion questions for you (or anyone else):
1) If you are putting in a sharkbite connector during this process anyway, wouldn't it be beneficial to install an individual cutoff valve for that line while you're doing that job anyway? A shutoff with sharkbite connectors on both ends seems to run less than $25. Yes/No opinions?
2) I live in a forty-five year old house. Another video I saw recommended putting in a few feet of PEX instead of copper pipe to help further resist freezing damage. Thoughts on that? Thanks to anyone willing to comment on either!
Timothy, I was thinking the same thing about installing a shutoff valve while doing the work. It's good insurance in the colder climates to shut the water off even when you have a frost proof valve.
Yes PEX is certainly more resistant to bursting when frozen. I'm not a plumber but I don't know I'd go out of my way to put a section of PEX simply for the sake of it. PEX is easier to work with for sure though.
@@bairdjc Thanks. I ended up not doing the PEX but did put in a new shutoff valve when I replaced my copper piping and hose bib.
I saw your video and ordered the parts and replaced the spigot on my own!! I am not a plumber but I do try to make a go at things and this was so simple to do..Thanks!!
I installed these at four locations in my house and less than a year later replaced them all. These are easy to install, but you can't get parts for them, they have a ridiculously flimsy seal, that leaked almost immediately, and a handle that while cute, it painful to turn. If you want the convenience of a slip op fitting, buy a regular valve and add an shark-bite adapter.
Oh man, that handle is a questionable design 😂. Mine leaked a bit at the start and was hard to turn completely off but after a little use it seems to have seated the seal a bit better.
Mine is also painful to turn, I might return it.
What are you using at 7:00? Is that some kind of a potable vise?
Thanks very much for making this video. I reviewed it before I did the same job on my house. My only comment is that I assume you were concerned about orientation of the outside spigot because of the way it has to fit on your siding boards. Those who don’t have that issue should know that once the spigot and piping is installed in the SharkBite fittings - it can be rotated 360 degrees before securing it to the house.
Excellent videos
I live in Illinois, but I can't pronounce it correctly.
Clue# 1 this cat is a schill for shark bytes.
Don't throw your money away on junk is all that I have to say.
Buy a regular one and solder, 50 dollars cheaper. No leaks.
I like to use a small spirit level on the pipe to the valve to insure you have downward drainage when you turn the valve off. Doesn't take much, half a bubble at the line will do.
My pipe burst recently due to the winter and we were able to hear the water leaking into the crawl space. Luckily caught it in time. Loved the video,without you I wouldn’t have been able to fix it!Also it was the weekend so it was hard to get ahold of a plumber!
Nice, way to jump on the problem, get it fixed, and avoid a bigger problem 👊
That DAP Dynaflex caulk tube said Clear on the side, but it came out white. That's strange. Whenever I've had a caulk tube that said Clear, the caulk came out transparent (clear).
It will dry clear though
@@ourkid2000 Thanks Chris. I figured there had to be an answer that made sense.
When you mentioned o-rings I was thinking what happens when those deteriorate? Solder or pex does not deteriorate.
Did you consider adding a vinyl siding adapter (also used for lights) to give you a flat surface to mount to?
Yep for the cost easy to do and finished look..
That’s what I did. Looks much better than this slash job.
Good info. One note, you did not give the vinyl siding any opportunity to expand or contract with temperature changes.
I am a 66 year old widow alone and trying to fix this. I just spent 3 entire days and I do mean entire days replacing once again a ‘frost free’ silcock. This past winter was relatively mild and the hose was disconnected so I don’t know why it failed again. My silcock was originally installed right in the corner of the foundation right against the foundation wall which makes changing these a royal pain with lots of scunned knuckles trying to work against the wall. After 3 entire days I Still have a leak where the new ‘frost free’ silcock connects to the line. I don’t understand why it’s leaking there. If I continue to try to tighten the brass fitting over the tape threaded silcock can I potentially accidentally break the new expensive silcock? I don’t have anyone who can help me and dread the cost of hiring a plumber for something like this that should not be so hard. Suggestions please?
Shark bites are good unions. You just don't want the pipe just de-bur the inside and outside of the pipe. It explicitly states that in the installation instructions. If you sand the pipe they may fail.
Interesting comment. I assume that the sanding of the pipe changes its diameter if sanded too much. Ir is it another reason?
Sometimes the texture of certain things (beef ravioli, certain soups, etc) can become less than preferential, but the nutritional value remains intact, and they taste just fine once heated. I don't even pay attention to dates on cans anymore. The main thing to watch out for is rust spots (not technically "rust") and to just make sure they're not perforated (never found one that was). People give me their "old" cans all the time. They think I'm crazy for eating it. I think they're crazy for tossing it ;-)
...
We had a record freeze in south Texas that burst some of my pipes. I had to cut into my inside wall to get
to the faucet. Since I had paneling cutting into the sheetrock was no problem. I did have my plumber buddy do the soldering in the wall. It had to be done fast as not to burn the house down. I will try the SharkBite on other projects.
Yeah, when you are starting off sweating pipes I think the open flame around wood does intimidate a good number of home owners. I wonder home many spigots burst during the freeze in Texas 🤯
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Also a lot of vacuum breakers for sprinklers cracked. Most stores were sold out. I went to a industrial supply store and found one. He told me he had six left after ordering eighty.
Ive seen that Sharkbite reccomends against sanding the outside of the pipe like this. I imagine it would be fine with an extermely fine paper, but the idea is that the outside of the tube needs to be very smooth (IE not roughed up with medium grit) for the o-ring gaskets to work properly. So you might have done better to just melt that excess solder off with a torch, and clean with a towel.
Thanks for the feedback Jon 👍
Think most important is straight cut and no burs
Sharkbite: Imma bout to create the most painful to turn hose bib valve known to man...
If you’ll read Shark-bites own nomenclature on their product? You’ll find out that they recommended the use of their product only as a temporary fix not a permanent repair but hey, when you love your work so much she loves doing it 2, 3, or 4 or more times…
I’m autistic & nobody reads the fine print (except for Aspergers).
😂 correct
I'd be interested to see the other spigots start to finish, including dry wall. But this video is exactly the same scenario I'm in. I didn't even realize shark bite spigots were a thing. Thanks.
They are handy 👍
I wouldn't use them they leak get a real plumber to fix it right and will last
@@johnchonka2052 if you install them correctly, they are fine. Most leaks come from not deburring the inner and outer diameter..and making sure they are fully seated. Iirc got2learn goes over it a lot in pretty good detail .. when he put that cap on, he should have deburred the outside of the copper ..it tears up the rubber o ring (fyi: wrote before watching video)
@@scarce911 where I live they fail alot due to extreme cold -20°f consistently and even colder. I've been plumbing 25+ years I'm old school I prefer soilder and expansion pex with male sweat brass adaptors. Sharkbite is for people that don't know how to Plumb. I will say I use sharkbit for temporary fixes example if I can't get the water totally off atm I'll use sharkbit until I can solider a permanent fix
at -20°Fa Sharkbite can prevent a burst cooper pipe, by acting as a relief valve... yes it will still leak but a Sharkbite can usually just be pushed back into place instead of having to find where the pipe burst and then having to repair it....
but I get it the trades hate to see anything.that will avoid a overprice service call....
FYI PEX A is better option than cooper to prevent freezing damage...
Scott, This is great. I unfortunately have the issue where my spigot has been stripped (a Mr. Thread wouldn't even work) and it is frost-free and within the drywall, compliments of the former home owner who finished the basement.
I am interested in learning about the drywall video - if you have one.
Sharkbite is great technology, that is if you don't mind trusting potential disaster to an O ring in all kinds of weather.
NASA did with the Challenger ...look where it got them...
They knew of the O-ring problem before launch. Not a great example.
Don’t you have to debur the inside of the pipe as well? With the pencil deburrer/ exacto knife
Should definitely debur and also clean of the outside of exposed pipe with fine steel wool or similar. I would also not use that salvaged segment of pipe with so much stuff on it. Just grab a 3ft chunk of 1/2 pex tubing and an elbow. Although this is in accessible area if it ever leaks.
Some tubing cutters come with a de-burring built on them. In a pinch, you can use a utility knife to swish around the inside diameter.
@@AStanton1966 what I used. Utility knife. Now I got the pencil deburrer
@@appleztooranges Sharpbite actually sells a combo tool that deburrs and measures the correct depth. It looks like an orange flute. I also recommend the Sharkbite removal tongs. They sell for about $10 at Lowes. They work a lot better than the little plastic orange removal tool.
@@AStanton1966 I got it. Hard to do in between cuts though. Like if you have just a coupling or something and only got 1/4” or so
I havent used sharkbite spigot before and that's what I'll use next time if the customer is ok spending the extra money for the part. Also want to comment on leak testing. You said you ran water out the spigot to look for leaks. The true test should have been conducted under pressure with the spigot turned off. That should have been mentioned in this video.
Also you mentioned reusing the old part (90°) to avoid having having to purchase another sharkbite 90. I liked that you were able to reuse it. In my mind it's best to replace. Suggesting to reuse corroded copper piping is a shortcut and in most cases not recommended. Also it looks cleaner and reassuring to replace rather than reuse (best practice).
FYI sharkbite saved me. I keep some around house in case of emergencies. July 4, I had an emergency leak (pin leak) and hole depot was closed and plumber wouldn’t answer. Used the sharkbite instead. That worked
The sharkbites really do shine in those type of scenarios. 👍👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I don’t have any soldering and no propress device. So It works out for me. Tons of plumbers cringe when they hear l sharkbite”
Great video, I'm glad we don't have frost here in California. I do have a question though. Our outdoor spigots have a anti siphon valve on them. When you turn off the water, there's always a spray of water comingout of the anti siphone valve. It's that normal. Can I just remove the valve from the spigot? Thanks
I would keep the valve in place but you can get a rebuild kit usually depending on the brand. Overall from your description I would say you are find and having some water go past the anti siphon valve when you shut the water off is common 👍
I've been looking for replacing my garden faucet for quite some time and your video and the detail of step by step are very helpful. Thank you for sharing!
love shark bite used them to redo my entire cold water line, its been about 5 or 6 years now and not a single leak so far
Amazing, just what I needed, know what the plumber quoted me today!!!!!!!!!$800!!!! Thank you so much.
😬
The drywall spigot replacement would be more what I am facing in the future. Also extending a garage frost free spigot to an external wall approx. 14 feet away. The reason ... the builder didn't put a drain in the garage so running a hose from there doesn't make good common sense.
Thanks for the feedback Chris 👍
You didn't de-burr the end of the cut pipe before sliding on the SharkBite end cap. You did mention de-burring later when you removed the cap and applied the 90 degree elbow, but by then the end cap may have been damaged.
You're not supposed to sand or burnish copper pipe that you intend to apply a SharkBite fitting to. If there is solder or corrosion then use new pipe.
Why was your Dynaflex "CLEAR" sealant opaque white instead of clear? Does it cure clear?
The more challenging spigot behind the drywall is exactly what I'm dealing with, I would love to see a video on that
You might be in luck, I have 2 spigots which are covered by drywall and I am trying to work that project into the content calendar. Thanks for the feedback!
Yes Sir, I sure could use that video going into the wall, I have 2 I need to do and the plumber wants 350 each including the parts. 😩
I clean carpets for a living since 1987 so I've literally hooked up to thousands of homes outside faucets for water. I've seen a whole lot of these freeze up during winter and cause a leak inside the home or under the house more times than I can even keep track of because it happens a LOT. I'm sure improper installation is the number one culprit. If they aren't sealed up against the wall properly or pitched properly it will only take one good freeze and you'll be needing either a repair or a replacement. When I clean I need to hook up to the outside faucet and believe me this has caused me trouble a lot of times over the years. I would almost bet money if I were a betting person that somewhere in the neighborhood of 1/4'th of all faucets in my area is bad as I type this. I'm in SE Missouri so our weather may get down to zero in the winter and rarely lower with wind chill. I very rarely see a faucet that is actually sealed up against the wall and often they're hanging very loose and not pitched properly so they can drain out when you take the hose off. Most people do remove their hoses in the winter, or at least they claim they do so improper installation is the number one cause IMHO of failure of these faucets.
Did you post a video for installing a new spigot in a finished area?
Not yet, it is on the list 👍
For newbies, I would recommend purchasing the Sharkbite depth gauge. Using a Sharpie to mark the proper insertion depth on the pipe ensures a tight connection.
Yep, not getting the proper depth I would guess is 99% of the reason behind people getting leaks with Sharkbie fittings.
Yes, and use the debur tools. I've seen a debur tool that also measures depth. Very handy.
how many spigots does a house need?
Would love to see the job with hard to reach pipes behind drywall. That is my project for today.
Man, I think I will do one of those in the near future. I have 1 of my outdoor spigots in this situation and I think it would relate to many homeowners.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Looking forward to this video. I have 3 spigot which need to be replaced soon... all behind finish walls. Would you also talk about adding an optional access panel? Thanks!
I live in Springfield,IL and I forgot to unhook the hose one winter and the next spring I had a flood in the basement when I turned on the hose to water the grass. I'll never forget to do that again! I had a plumber give me an estimate on replacing the spigot, he quoted me $700.00 and that's with a 10% discount!! I just finished doing the job myself with your help from this video and I did it for less than $100.00 and it only took a couple of hours. I can't thank you enough for your help and guidance! I'm a life long member of UA-cam University!!
Happy to help 👍
What brand screws were used to secure the new spigot?
I feel like this dude is sponsored by sharkbite.
Nope, just like their products. Not for every install but some installs (like this one) Sharkbite make things pretty easy for DIYers. 👍
Where did you get the shims.??
this was very helpful thanks.😃
That “general exterior sealant” looks an awful lot like painters caulk.
I just used a tube of DAP Dynaflex 230 which should work for the job. Do you have a preferred brand for this type of job?
Nice job for your situation. I need to replace my spicket but my cellar has 2x6 wall to a walk-in basement, therefore that spicket is way to long. I wanted to upgrade mine to a cold weather spicket but looks like I have replace mine with a regular short spicket.........
Why didn’t you clean and sand the inside pipe?
Very good explanation of how to replace an outdoor faucet. Another brand of faucet I would like to see how you install is the Aquor House Hydrant. This faucet self drains and can be left uncovered during freezing conditions without bursting and would be interesting to see how easy it is to install.
I just replaced all mine with the Aquor, you can put a SharkBite fitting on the end of the Aquor and then its identical install to this video. The vacuum breaker is on the removable hose part so it leaves a really classy fixture on the outside of the house.
Seems like you should remove the inner “PEX stiffener” sleeve to remove the bottleneck as you are using copper. At least that’s what my online research is saying.
Recently I was informed to change these to stop the leaks but didn’t know how to. Thanks for showing this will follow these steps. Will love to see other types as well. Just subbed.
Really appreciate the video and comments! Heading out do the replacement shortly
$65 for the non Freeze 12" sillcock /$16.75 for a Sharkbite 90/plus labour ? and you end up with a repair of Dubious Reliabilty because of sharkbite's failure rate; that your house insurance may not cover ;when the fittings fail due to freezing or improper installation-might end up being cheaper and safer to get it done by a licenced Plumber
LOL - had to quit watching after only a minute and a half. Down south, there is no basement, and the piping is INSIDE the exterior wall, so I have no way to upgrade. Guess I'm stuck with the styrofoam covers every winter.
I have a hard to reach spigot I need to replace, so a video on that would be great!
Thanks for the feedback! 👍
I recently had a water heater installed by a pro plumber and I had called numerous plumbers out to quote the job. I asked them all what they thought of Shark Bite fittings and none of them had anything good to say about them. One of them even started laughing.
That's for a couple reasons. First, contractors won't use them as first choice because they are super expensive. For example, standard 1/2" ball valve is about $8, the sharkbite equivalent is like $20. Every sharkbite fitting is much more expensive than it's sweat counterpart.
Second, sharkbite fittings make simple plumbing jobs DIYable for the common person. I wouldn't expect a contractor to be celebrating potential customers being able to do their own work.
Great video, especially for clueless DIYers like me.
😂 thx!
Thanks for the well presented videos! I've subscribed!
I've not read all the comments, but was wondering if the original spigot was soldered too the supply line at the end of the frost-proof tube? You didn't point out that many are actually threaded on with a pipe thread fitting and can be removed without cutting into supply lines. If yours was soldered, then using a Sharkbite made perfect sense if you couldn't make the repair with a stem rebuild.
Cheers!
Great video as always. I just bought 2 new Sharkbite sillcocks for my house. Can you please link where you got the heavy duty mount screws? Much appreciated!