This was the best video on adjusting the SRAM Yaw front derailleur out there. It specifically stresses the "alignment" of the derailleur with the white marks on the unit vice "old school" alignment with the front gears. Makes ALL the difference. I've had this for over 10 years always with a little rubbing at the extremes and this totally eliminated any rub. Finally, it shifts like butter.
An oldie but a goodie!!!! Every time I mess with my SRAM yaw FD, I refer back to this video. I am able to install and/or adjust the FD quickly and easily every time following these instructions.
This helped me a lot. I ran this derailleur for six months, mad that I couldn't trim it on the fly. (Didn't read the instructions) Now it's the best front derailleur I've ever had.
Yes, obviously the limit screws set the limit of the cage, but I'm talking about how Si set the cable tension for the FD. Usually you'll set the tension in the small ring and all tension released from the shift lever.
I find that doesn't work. Not enough tension. I need to use the inner limit screw up push the derailleur out, like Simon has done but then out the shifter in the small ring so there's enough cable length to get enough tension.
The lower limit screw grinds the plate/lever easily, I wonder how many time you can tension the FD with until something brakes. When bolted to a hanger, you can at least tension the FD by hand, so there won't be any unwanted pressure during lower limit screw adjustment.
Best guidelines for sram yaw derailleurs!! many thanks! my is finally working crispy. The tip to adjust the angular position by using the low adjustment screw is very good, as these derailleurs do a yaw movement when shifting. That means, at the lower gear it's not parallel to the chain ring anymore.
Today I had to adjust my derailleur the seconf time within 6 month (don't ask me why). But this method works perfect, no further adjustment necessary. Thanks a lot guys *thumps up*
Every time I bought parts SRAM or Shimano there is always a useless tiny manual, they should include simple instructions on how to install things. At times, even bike shop mechanics don't know the tricks
2 minor oversites in your setup. First the derailleur cable is supposed to go over not under the little tab by the anchor bolt, and second when setting the low limit it is best to apply slight braking force to the rear wheel to mimic chain tension when actually riding. This will result in an ever so slight chain rasp when peddling the bike on the stand but no rasp when riding and better shifting to the big ring as less travel is needed to complete the shift.
Great video. It took me a few tries until i realized i hadn't tightened the derailleur clamp bolt enough and that forced me to have to start all over again.
Great explanation, Si. I admit, I've always been slightly baffled by front derailleurs. I can get them close but never 100%. Can't wait to get home and try it out.
I've been using a Froce22 Yaw derailleur on a couple different bikes and cranksets, it throws the chain no matter what it. It seems like the ability to twist overrides the limit stops when you press very hard on the lever....or sumpthin....not sure what exactly is going on with it's unreliability issue. You can have it set up beautifully on the stand but when you get out on the road and give it a little bit too much firmness on the lever it will chuck the chain off the side. Too much limit on the stop to prevent this and it shifts terribly or not at all. The Rival group I have is much better...it shifts like a tractor but it's much more reliable.
I did this and hey presto! My front setup is the smoothest it's ever been. Never mind brown belt, Si is the black belt of Yaw. The sensei of SRAM. The sultan of shifting (I'll stop now).
I have to say that I am impressed with SRAM's engineering. I understand that cross chaining is bad, but I still think that the system should be able to do it without making a bunch of noise. I am a Shimano guy, but they could learn something here.
the worst part is most limit screws aren't actually phillips heads, they're JIS screws, which are very slightly different. just different enough to make phillips screwdrivers not grip properly in the heads. and JIS screwdrivers are oddly rare.
jon robert a symptom of sram being a japanese company i guess?? i think JIS are actually better if you have the right screwdriver, but you don't find them in the uk- old motorcycles seem to have a lot too :) interesting to know that , id never thought of it/ seen it before!
Hi GCN, I'm also really struggeling with the adjustment of my SRAM Force rear derailleur, specifically the b-tension screw adjustment. Maybe you could do a video about that? Cheers. Also, Matt is awesome.
The b tension screw should be adjusted so that in the biggest cog the derailluer pulley is going to be approximately 6mm away from the teeth of the cog for optimum shifting. My rival one derailluer needs more like 7-7.5mm to shift into my 36t smoothly,so just play around with it until your satisfied. Just use the 6mm guideline to start out with.
Could you guys do a video on how to adjust your front derailleur when you don't have a barrel adjuster, specifically when it comes to the final adjustments and it is rubbing a little bit?
having took a hammer to my old 'never worked' SRAM force 10 FD, I'm now staring down at a Force 22 YAW FD with chain spotter. It looks even more advanced than this Red unit. Here's hoping for some crisp and precise shifting.
Can You make a video like this for the etap front derailleur? I followed your etap video, but messed it up on the last steps and now I have no clue how to recover. The front derailleur won,T shift to the big ring.
anyone kno if I am an oval ring and when I am in the big front ring and attempting to shift up to to the largest rear cog it will drop the front chain into the smaller inner front ring. I hope that makes sense. I am too poor to take it to the LBS, and I am learning disable but I want to learn and get this dialed in.
Thanks for making these videos for others. Can I use the Sram X1 11 speed chain on a 10 speed groupo (sram PG1070 cassette 11-32 + Sram Power Glide Chainring) - I know 11 speed chain do work on 10 speed cassettes, however I am not sure about the X1 chain.
Really nice guide for this - however, definitely not as easy as it looks :) I only miss getting the highest gear working - still a tiny bit there not going right, but I have troubles adjusting the cable on the adjuster on the cable. GUess I might have messed it up.
Hey GCN, My front lower limit screw won't go far enough for me to allign both of the markes on the front derailleur cage to be in line with the large crank. After setting your lower limit screw so the chain is froced into the big ring, did you have any rotations left of the lower limit screw? Where else do you think I could be going wrong?
OK - after 6 tries I finally figured out that I needed to tighten the barrel adjuster (cable tension) to get chain to not rub in highest gear (big ring, small cog). Might want to point that out.
if you have alot of miles on it, for example over 20k, I have found it best to just replace it. Seems that the tension on the cable eventually pulls the derailleur our of alignment and the marks won't line up with the outer chainring. This also depends on the bike and direction the cable is pulling. Sometimes a new cable fixes it, and sometimes not.
I have exactly same problem now, it misaligns itself after a few miles even when I thighten the braze-on bolt with 8 nm torque (recommended max is 7 nm). Why would new cable or new dereilleur help with that? I'm seriously considering this solution.
Hey SiRo, It may be a little beyond the scope of this great video, but is the yaw front derailleur considered a necessary upgrade for those of us still on older generations of SRAM Red?
+Evan Aube While you can get it to work with the older Red it really does work much better if you upgrade the levers as well to one made for the Yaw derailleur. I've done it both ways and it makes a huge difference.
Have sram deliberately designed their front derailleur cable pinch bolt to destroy cables and have such low leverage as to make shifting force harder than it needs to be?
+Global Cycling Network sorry, I meant to say that he is seriously good with the bike maintenance stuff, almost like a pro - did he pick up these mad skills while he was a pro cyclist?
Hi, great info but I have a question for my classic 70s build with modern components. I have Sram Rival 11 speed front and rear derailleurs but using Truvativ power spline cranks (correct look for my bike) with FSA 50/34 chain wheels. I have been told that the gap between the chain wheels is different on Sram yaw than all others, if so what is the size difference so I can pack my chain wheels out with washers.
This appears to be a terrific video, but your editor has chopped up the merest GLANCES at these screws and what you are doing. Wish the editing wasn't so choppy with extended views of the presenter when we are trying to see what he is teaching us.
Doing this without a barrel adjuster is a total fucking bitch of a job. The cable end crimp WILL come off as you pull, lol. If you have the Red FD with the chain guard, lining up the chain guard will throw off the cage alignment. You just have to lightly tighten everything and then coerce things into place and hope they stay put.
haven't you had enough of these derailleur mechanism. fragile, cumborsom, noisi, slopy, superficial mechanisms. same for todays "crapy" frames. fragile, expensive and difficult to make. im puting up a project to practically reinvent the bike. simple, snapy, reliable, very capable, afordable, and simply genial, the way it should have been since a long time ago. let me know if you would be interested by such a project.
+SnowCYYCling Yeah but you don't have to trim which is nice. For someone who likes a quiet bike, you absolutely can't beat SRAM with yaw. Even a perfectly adjusted Ultegra or DA drivetrain still makes a ton of noise compared w/ SRAM.
+SnowCYYCling Actually I find that once you've mastered it (5-10 mins the first time) it's so much easier than the new shimano (5800, 6800, 9000). I've never seen a new generation shimano front mech that worked correctly, either you can't trim from the small ring or you can't trim from the big ring, and I followed the required cable routing, it just seems to me like there is not enough leverage and the shifting is crappy (prefered the older generation)
+razordimeback My big ring doesn't trim at all and my little ring trims heaps. It's the same on my crappy winter bike with shimano claris and my good bike with shimano 105.
Ethan S The only way I found around this is to add leverage, I put a big cable end on the pin you do an "S" around with the new style FD, this way, it's possible to use the small trim and the big one still works. On some bike you can totally bypass what shimano says about cable placement and just clamp it like a standard FD (from the left looking to the front, around the bolt and down) and it'll work, but on most bikes this way you don't get enough leverage to get it onto the big ring
Nope. This method does not work because it begins with a critical error: lining up white marks exactly above the big ring. This is incorrect. It is true that in the initial position the white marks have to be _parallel_ to the big ring, but they will not (!) align directly above the big ring in general case. The marks should be offset inboard or outboard from the ring. Which direction and how much - depends on your bike. It is different from bike to bike. Note, that you receive the new SRAM Yaw FR with a factory-preset L-screw. This is the canonical installation/alignment position of the derailleur. It is important to preserve it. When you take a new FR from the box, do not touch the L-screw. Install the FR on your bike, align the white marks parallel to the big ring, and then measure/photograph/note/memorize how far from the big ring the white marks are. Next time you decide to reinstall/realign your FR, use the L-screw to restore this position. Once again: the marks have to be parallel to the big ring but offset from the ring as much as they were when you received the FR with factory-preset L-screw. Not (!) directly above the big ring, as this woefully incorrect video suggests. Trying to do it as this video suggests is just a random crapshoot. If you are lucky it might work for your bike, but most of the time it won't.
+SolidCopy1 I have SRAM Force 22 on my bike, and I have to say I find it hard to argue with you. From day one I have had nothing but problems with the front mech.
no I am not a moron. You really think I have not taken it to a shop. I took it to the shop, they first thought it was a problem with the internal cabling. The changed the cables. Didn't fix the problem. They then replaced the front mech. Didn't fix the problem. Then the shop I bought it from closed down. I have been to a different shop, they can't fix it either. Two different front mechs, the same issue. So no I am not a moron. Dickhead.
This was the best video on adjusting the SRAM Yaw front derailleur out there. It specifically stresses the "alignment" of the derailleur with the white marks on the unit vice "old school" alignment with the front gears. Makes ALL the difference. I've had this for over 10 years always with a little rubbing at the extremes and this totally eliminated any rub. Finally, it shifts like butter.
After struggling with my Rival Yaw FD for weeks, I followed the steps here and it worked almost flawlessly. Thank you!
An oldie but a goodie!!!! Every time I mess with my SRAM yaw FD, I refer back to this video. I am able to install and/or adjust the FD quickly and easily every time following these instructions.
This is by far the best instruction for the FD I've seen.
Yet another concise description of the proper set up of a front derailleur. My new to me Yaw derailleur now shifts beautifully.
This is the one. I am grateful. There are others but I keep coming back to this one. Maybe I'll remember it some day.
This helped me a lot. I ran this derailleur for six months, mad that I couldn't trim it on the fly. (Didn't read the instructions) Now it's the best front derailleur I've ever had.
An old one, but exactly what I needed. GCN at its best. Thanks!
That's a really ingenious way to set cable tension! Never thought of setting tension while in the big ring and then just backing off the limit screw!
That's not for cable tension,it's to align the cage.
Yes, obviously the limit screws set the limit of the cage, but I'm talking about how Si set the cable tension for the FD. Usually you'll set the tension in the small ring and all tension released from the shift lever.
I find that doesn't work. Not enough tension. I need to use the inner limit screw up push the derailleur out, like Simon has done but then out the shifter in the small ring so there's enough cable length to get enough tension.
Get yourself a fourth hand tool, that is a golden nut.
The lower limit screw grinds the plate/lever easily, I wonder how many time you can tension the FD with until something brakes. When bolted to a hanger, you can at least tension the FD by hand, so there won't be any unwanted pressure during lower limit screw adjustment.
Best guidelines for sram yaw derailleurs!! many thanks! my is finally working crispy. The tip to adjust the angular position by using the low adjustment screw is very good, as these derailleurs do a yaw movement when shifting. That means, at the lower gear it's not parallel to the chain ring anymore.
Much, much easier to understand than the official SRAM instruction video. Many thanks!
Another strong showing from the brown leather belt this week.
Si knows his stuff.
Pro tip: you can watch series on flixzone. I've been using it for watching all kinds of movies lately.
@Cristian Joaquin definitely, I've been using Flixzone for since november myself :)
Today I had to adjust my derailleur the seconf time within 6 month (don't ask me why). But this method works perfect, no further adjustment necessary. Thanks a lot guys *thumps up*
Thanks Simon you saved my weekend 😎. A lot of regular bikeshops arent able to do this 😑 so i did it with your guide and it works fine now 👍👍👍👍
Every time I bought parts SRAM or Shimano there is always a useless tiny manual, they should include simple instructions on how to install things. At times, even bike shop mechanics don't know the tricks
This method was perfect. Setting up this yaw derailleur had me ready to lose my mind and this video saved me!
Nailed it on the first go.
Nice one Dan, pleased to read the video was of help for you.
Thanks for the video. Between you and mbr magazine I've managed to understand and sort out quite a few maintenamce issues.
Baffled and decided to do a quick search...of course my friends at gcn are there to help. Thank you!
Thanks for the video, took me several tries, looking at lots of videos but I came back to yours and finally got it done.
2 minor oversites in your setup. First the derailleur cable is supposed to go over not under the little tab by the anchor bolt, and second when setting the low limit it is best to apply slight braking force to the rear wheel to mimic chain tension when actually riding. This will result in an ever so slight chain rasp when peddling the bike on the stand but no rasp when riding and better shifting to the big ring as less travel is needed to complete the shift.
... when pedaling* the bike (peddling = selling)
Thank you! I just purchased my first SRAM setup and the front derailleur was driving me batty. Shifting sweet now.
Great video. It took me a few tries until i realized i hadn't tightened the derailleur clamp bolt enough and that forced me to have to start all over again.
Great explanation, Si. I admit, I've always been slightly baffled by front derailleurs. I can get them close but never 100%. Can't wait to get home and try it out.
Works perfect for me, the Yaw derailleur is a clever idea.
Tremendous explanation! Help me right my front mech hours before a race after transportation through it out of wack.
I've been using a Froce22 Yaw derailleur on a couple different bikes and cranksets, it throws the chain no matter what it. It seems like the ability to twist overrides the limit stops when you press very hard on the lever....or sumpthin....not sure what exactly is going on with it's unreliability issue. You can have it set up beautifully on the stand but when you get out on the road and give it a little bit too much firmness on the lever it will chuck the chain off the side. Too much limit on the stop to prevent this and it shifts terribly or not at all. The Rival group I have is much better...it shifts like a tractor but it's much more reliable.
Thanks for the video. It has helped me greatly. Much appreciated.
Going to be upgrading to SRAM RED 22 in the next week, this has helped with some confusion
Have you noticed that Simon sounds like a kid in a candy store when it shifts properly , He was dead happy
Perfect video. Thanks
Will fiddle for hours then go back to this video and get it done in 15 mins. We cyclists love to suffer on ALL levels!
Very comprehensive video.
wow that FD cable looks like it's super frayed, even before it gets to the clamp bolt!
+Patrick94GSR I think it's because the expensive cables have a plastic coating.
I did this and hey presto! My front setup is the smoothest it's ever been. Never mind brown belt, Si is the black belt of Yaw. The sensei of SRAM. The sultan of shifting (I'll stop now).
I have to say that I am impressed with SRAM's engineering. I understand that cross chaining is bad, but I still think that the system should be able to do it without making a bunch of noise. I am a Shimano guy, but they could learn something here.
If adjusted properly the yaw fd makes almost 0 noise at full crosschain.its not like your supposed to be there anyways
Would be awesome if you could do a how to on adjusting the double tap shifters
srams adjustment (4mm alen key or flat head) is so much better than a phillips head screw!!
the worst part is most limit screws aren't actually phillips heads, they're JIS screws, which are very slightly different. just different enough to make phillips screwdrivers not grip properly in the heads. and JIS screwdrivers are oddly rare.
jon robert a symptom of sram being a japanese company i guess?? i think JIS are actually better if you have the right screwdriver, but you don't find them in the uk- old motorcycles seem to have a lot too :) interesting to know that , id never thought of it/ seen it before!
I think there is a mistake at 2:30 ... Shouldn't you turn the innner limit screw? In the video, the outer limit screw is shown.
Hi GCN, I'm also really struggeling with the adjustment of my SRAM Force rear derailleur, specifically the b-tension screw adjustment. Maybe you could do a video about that? Cheers. Also, Matt is awesome.
The b tension screw should be adjusted so that in the biggest cog the derailluer pulley is going to be approximately 6mm away from the teeth of the cog for optimum shifting.
My rival one derailluer needs more like 7-7.5mm to shift into my 36t smoothly,so just play around with it until your satisfied.
Just use the 6mm guideline to start out with.
This is marvellous!
Good input, no distracting music can we reach the host direct?
Could you guys do a video on how to adjust your front derailleur when you don't have a barrel adjuster, specifically when it comes to the final adjustments and it is rubbing a little bit?
Get a park tool cable stretcher
having took a hammer to my old 'never worked' SRAM force 10 FD, I'm now staring down at a Force 22 YAW FD with chain spotter. It looks even more advanced than this Red unit. Here's hoping for some crisp and precise shifting.
Thank you for this how to!
thanks for the great video and instructions :)
Can You make a video like this for the etap front derailleur? I followed your etap video, but messed it up on the last steps and now I have no clue how to recover. The front derailleur won,T shift to the big ring.
Thanks! Great video!
I not got a frame mount so need to buy a band adaptor, can I use any adaptor or does it have to be SRAM's own? My front mech has the chain spotter.
can you do a video on how to adjust rear derailleurs for e tap?
Well done, perfect. Thank you.
Amazing thanks!
thanks a lot for the help!!
anyone kno if I am an oval ring and when I am in the big front ring and attempting to shift up to to the largest rear cog it will drop the front chain into the smaller inner front ring. I hope that makes sense. I am too poor to take it to the LBS, and I am learning disable but I want to learn and get this dialed in.
Thanks for making these videos for others.
Can I use the Sram X1 11 speed chain on a 10 speed groupo (sram PG1070 cassette 11-32 + Sram Power Glide Chainring) - I know 11 speed chain do work on 10 speed cassettes, however I am not sure about the X1 chain.
Really nice guide for this - however, definitely not as easy as it looks :) I only miss getting the highest gear working - still a tiny bit there not going right, but I have troubles adjusting the cable on the adjuster on the cable. GUess I might have messed it up.
That bike is so nice what model of helium is it???
Hey GCN, My front lower limit screw won't go far enough for me to allign both of the markes on the front derailleur cage to be in line with the large crank. After setting your lower limit screw so the chain is froced into the big ring, did you have any rotations left of the lower limit screw? Where else do you think I could be going wrong?
Billy Coburn some times you need to pull the derailleur out abit then screw the limit screw. It worked with my shimano.
Brilliant!
yeah that yaw angle is so picky. especially in regards to clearing chain when bike is in the top 50-11 gear
Do another video with the back pls :D
OK - after 6 tries I finally figured out that I needed to tighten the barrel adjuster (cable tension) to get chain to not rub in highest gear (big ring, small cog). Might want to point that out.
Anyone else catch that Simon really likes those white marks? I see that double eyebrow raise!
if you have alot of miles on it, for example over 20k, I have found it best to just replace it. Seems that the tension on the cable eventually pulls the derailleur our of alignment and the marks won't line up with the outer chainring. This also depends on the bike and direction the cable is pulling. Sometimes a new cable fixes it, and sometimes not.
I have exactly same problem now, it misaligns itself after a few miles even when I thighten the braze-on bolt with 8 nm torque (recommended max is 7 nm). Why would new cable or new dereilleur help with that? I'm seriously considering this solution.
1:34 Strange, mine working flawlessly in 5 mm. I tried 1-2 mm, and the chain always stuck.
After I adjust it, I can't use it.the leavers can't control it anymore. What could I do ?
As a computer tech this video title confused the hell out of me until I realized it was a video from GCN.
Hey SiRo, It may be a little beyond the scope of this great video, but is the yaw front derailleur considered a necessary upgrade for those of us still on older generations of SRAM Red?
+Evan Aube Hey Evan, I wouldn't say so, but maybe when it wears out eventually you could upgrade.
+Global Cycling Network thanks!
+Evan Aube While you can get it to work with the older Red it really does work much better if you upgrade the levers as well to one made for the Yaw derailleur. I've done it both ways and it makes a huge difference.
It saved my fc22
Have sram deliberately designed their front derailleur cable pinch bolt to destroy cables and have such low leverage as to make shifting force harder than it needs to be?
Was Simon a bike mechanic before he turned pro/GCN presenter?
+Megan L No, Simon was a pro cyclist then GCN presenter.
+Global Cycling Network sorry, I meant to say that he is seriously good with the bike maintenance stuff, almost like a pro - did he pick up these mad skills while he was a pro cyclist?
wish me luck boys.. I am thinking I got this
3 red and amazing video
Hi, great info but I have a question for my classic 70s build with modern components. I have Sram Rival 11 speed front and rear derailleurs but using Truvativ power spline cranks (correct look for my bike) with FSA 50/34 chain wheels. I have been told that the gap between the chain wheels is different on Sram yaw than all others, if so what is the size difference so I can pack my chain wheels out with washers.
Riding shimano front mechs after having tasted the yaw front is like going back to horse transportation after owning a car, plain wrong
This appears to be a terrific video, but your editor has chopped up the merest GLANCES at these screws and what you are doing. Wish the editing wasn't so choppy with extended views of the presenter when we are trying to see what he is teaching us.
What is it with your permanent vocal fry?
Vocal fry. More annoying than a front derailleur grinding.
Doing this without a barrel adjuster is a total fucking bitch of a job. The cable end crimp WILL come off as you pull, lol. If you have the Red FD with the chain guard, lining up the chain guard will throw off the cage alignment. You just have to lightly tighten everything and then coerce things into place and hope they stay put.
haven't you had enough of these derailleur mechanism. fragile, cumborsom, noisi, slopy, superficial mechanisms. same for todays "crapy" frames. fragile, expensive and difficult to make. im puting up a project to practically reinvent the bike. simple, snapy, reliable, very capable, afordable, and simply genial, the way it should have been since a long time ago. let me know if you would be interested by such a project.
Seems so much more complex than shimano...
+SnowCYYCling Yeah but you don't have to trim which is nice. For someone who likes a quiet bike, you absolutely can't beat SRAM with yaw. Even a perfectly adjusted Ultegra or DA drivetrain still makes a ton of noise compared w/ SRAM.
+SnowCYYCling Actually I find that once you've mastered it (5-10 mins the first time) it's so much easier than the new shimano (5800, 6800, 9000). I've never seen a new generation shimano front mech that worked correctly, either you can't trim from the small ring or you can't trim from the big ring, and I followed the required cable routing, it just seems to me like there is not enough leverage and the shifting is crappy (prefered the older generation)
+razordimeback My big ring doesn't trim at all and my little ring trims heaps. It's the same on my crappy winter bike with shimano claris and my good bike with shimano 105.
Ethan S The only way I found around this is to add leverage, I put a big cable end on the pin you do an "S" around with the new style FD, this way, it's possible to use the small trim and the big one still works. On some bike you can totally bypass what shimano says about cable placement and just clamp it like a standard FD (from the left looking to the front, around the bolt and down) and it'll work, but on most bikes this way you don't get enough leverage to get it onto the big ring
Can you go over all that again without the vocal fry?
130th
Nope.
This method does not work because it begins with a critical error: lining up white marks exactly above the big ring. This is incorrect. It is true that in the initial position the white marks have to be _parallel_ to the big ring, but they will not (!) align directly above the big ring in general case. The marks should be offset inboard or outboard from the ring. Which direction and how much - depends on your bike. It is different from bike to bike.
Note, that you receive the new SRAM Yaw FR with a factory-preset L-screw. This is the canonical installation/alignment position of the derailleur. It is important to preserve it. When you take a new FR from the box, do not touch the L-screw. Install the FR on your bike, align the white marks parallel to the big ring, and then measure/photograph/note/memorize how far from the big ring the white marks are. Next time you decide to reinstall/realign your FR, use the L-screw to restore this position. Once again: the marks have to be parallel to the big ring but offset from the ring as much as they were when you received the FR with factory-preset L-screw. Not (!) directly above the big ring, as this woefully incorrect video suggests.
Trying to do it as this video suggests is just a random crapshoot. If you are lucky it might work for your bike, but most of the time it won't.
who the hell designed this?
woooo under 10 club haha
Change for campagnolo is more simple
2
This video made my yaw...n...
Best way to adjust them: sell them and buy Shimano. Fucking garbage sram
+SolidCopy1 I have SRAM Force 22 on my bike, and I have to say I find it hard to argue with you. From day one I have had nothing but problems with the front mech.
+James Greene I swear this is why Sram is pushing 1x
+James Greene are you a moron? Just take it to a bike shop so someone who knows what the hell their doing can take a look at it
no I am not a moron. You really think I have not taken it to a shop. I took it to the shop, they first thought it was a problem with the internal cabling. The changed the cables. Didn't fix the problem. They then replaced the front mech. Didn't fix the problem. Then the shop I bought it from closed down. I have been to a different shop, they can't fix it either. Two different front mechs, the same issue. So no I am not a moron. Dickhead.
io ti corcherei de botte per quanto parli male l'inglese che non si capisce un cazzo!!!
1st
why do you speak Chinese . can you speak America enlist please
6th coment!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4th