Great tips! One tip i would add... After a ride DON'T store the bike with the chain on the big ring. When the chain is on the big ring the rear derailer is stretched out. The springs in the rear derailer will out wear prematurely if stored this way over a period of months/years, which leads to sloppy shifts. The shifting will be far more crisp if after a ride the chain is put on the lower gears (12, 13) in the rear and the small chain ring in the front. As a result, the rear derailer will be its most compact and not stretching/wearing out the return springs in the rear derailer.
I just setup new inner cables on my bike using these hacks. Absolutely brilliant technique. Shifting was pretty much spot on on both mechs, a quick turn of each barrel adjuster and it's perfection. One of the best videos you've made.
Mustve Watched and tried the techniques off atleast 5 other videos...none of them seemed to fix my noisy gear issues....watched this one, followed the instructions and my issue is resolved! Thank you
One of the only (perhaps the only) video on derailleur setup of the limit screws that actually follows what Shimano says to do for how to adjust the high limit stop.
The indexing hack aka Shimano's hack that starts at 2:22 is amazing. This is the best advice I have ever seen for indexing rear deraillaur. It has always worked for me. 2 minutes tops. I don’t even bother with barrel shifters and guesswork gear indexing which might take upto 10-20 minutes to get right. Just use this method. Top marks to GCN.
You can always learn something new! Didn't know the 2nd cog method and the limit screw front deraillieur method after 16 years of biking and service. Well done, Sy!! Thanks!!
A nice one to remember here (a mate told me ages ago) for remembering which limit screw is which if you get High/Low mixed up (face it - the low gear on a cassette is actually high up!): H = Hard gear L = Lazy gear
DONTstealmykills, they are referred to as High and Low gear only, that was why I said "Low Speed" gear might help - - - BUT L=Low tooth count might confuse as the Low Gear (eg 28 rear ) actually has a high tooth count and the H does not = high tooth count as the High (Speed) Gear has only 11 or 12 tooth count
I know they are referred to High and Low gear only. I was merely saying that (if the designations were flipped) high tooth count and low tooth count would be the only other reference options. I am a bicycle mechanic after all.
At last! The video about correct cable tension! There are DOZENS of vids talking about adjusting shifting, but almost none of them are giving enough attention to cable tension! I will definitely try your advice!
Just got back into cycling over the past couple weeks after decades off the saddle. Now all I do is work, sleep, ride, eat, tune and tinker with my bike and watch GCN!
@@AlexYaroff That's the method I prefer (setting the lower limit screw so that the derailleur cage is juuust a hair away from the chain). Helps avoid a dropped chain from misshifting or a broken cable.
soooo gratefull for this video: I was on a ride today and my gears were acting funny, turned out to be a worn lower pulley. Bought some new ones on the way home, replaced them and fixed the shifting issues thanks to your video's. Now i can ride tommorow morning 👍👍👍 Thanks GCN!!!
I have just done this on what i thought was a knackered bike and nothing more could be done with it, i have yet to go on a ride but the test ride looked perfect. The only problem is that the front chainset adjustment didn't work in that i didn't have enough screw length to set the derailleur back to normal low speed mode, i also had to use some intelligence for the high gear ring as you didn't mention that, but no problem there. Thank you
Your last hack must be the the first one. The rear derailleur hanger is made of much softer material than the frame is built of. It's a frame protective measure and it's OK to check and re-align it if needed. Though, for a carbon frame, having a pair of spare hangers would be a less stressful (for a bike owner) option.
Niels Heldens Or an infinite speed bike, NuVinci CVT is by far the best for super smooth shifting. If the number of speeds is countable and > 1, it won't be a smooth shifting bike.
Thx your front deraileur hack saved me ;) i tried to adjust it and totally screwed it up.... i felt like crying and then watched your video and fixed it within 10 minutes and a few tries
Currently trained to be a bike mechanic: I was told that to set the lower/higher limits of both front and rear, it's good to go until rub/noise is seen/heard and then back off. 2mm is actually a lot for the lower front limit to be away from the chain. Things tend to be easier on new gear / new bikes then worn ones (if you have sram and non-round rings, do what I do: pray)
Having only dealt with beefier 7 and 8 speeds in the past the new 105 11 speed was giving me a ton of trouble. Finally found this video and started from scratch. Was done in 5-10 minutes and only required turning the barrel 1 turn for the rear derailleur after following your steps. Only addendums I'd add is mostly closing /shortening all available adjusters before starting so you can open them as things stretch a bit over time and be careful with that lower limit screw on the front derailleur for the 105 it can slip pretty easy when you get to the point the chain touches the big cog.
The two cable tension tips are particularly massive time savers, jut tied them out and it got me within a tiny tweak of a barrel adjuster in no time! 👍
Sooooo helpful, thank you very very much, I've been having real issues with my indexing... with these hacks (pro tips, I beg your pardon) I've nailed it... GET IN!!
Simon, this is the most important video with respect to front derailleur adjustment for bikes lacking barrel adjusters and internally routed cables. before I came across this video, I was not able to shit to the big chainwheel and was convinced that my new front 105 mech was defective. I was literally losing my mind. I actually signed in and subscribed because of this video. many thanks, cheers and happy trails......
Thanks a lot, GCN! I've been riding bicycles for many years and never bothered to learn this stuff. Then again, when I started riding, there was no Internet, hence no UA-cam. SO glad to have survived into the 21st century.
That front derailleur cable trick is great - I have done similar just pushing the derailleur out by hand while tightening the cable - duh... Let the stop screw hold it... Been working on bikes for 40+ years and hadn't done that! One other detail on the rear hanger issue: The replaceable hanger is like a fuse in an electrical circuit: Designed to break before your $$$$ frame does. They sometime will fracture when you try straightening them, no matter how carefully you may do it. Set the expectation for the customer that even the shop may not be able to fix it. Good idea to carry a spare in your saddle bag - easy swap with a multi-tool on the side of the road - or cafe where your bike took a dive while you were slurping your coffee down... Another thing to look for is if the derailleur body or cage is bent or twisted. A lot of the newer high-end cages are made of carbon, which either springs back or breaks - but many older or low-to-mid-range mechs are alloy - that can really affect shifting as well!
Not sure if someone’s already said it, but make sure there’s enough cable coming out of the frame for a nice easy radius at the rear mech. If the cable outer cable housing is too short, or the bend too sharp, it will bind and interfere with shifting. Currently dealing with this dilemma.
Thanks guys, just saved me a whole heap of time, bad enough with a frayed STI cable in the lever! This got me up and running quickly. (Remember sometimes poor shifting isn't just indexing, it could be a damaged cable).
I was practicing all these hacks for quite a long time already, except the Shortcut hack. Thanks for that, really great one! And the tool, I have it, works great even on alu hangers. Noticed, that lot of frames nowadays arrive with bent or not ideally adjusted hangers just out of the box, so, this tool is a must, if you like to build your own bikes, just as I do.
thank you! I travel for the first time with my bike and it got a bit damaged. I used this video to figure out what was going on and fix it! really handy when there are no bike shops where I live!
Please do a video on choosing the most efficient shifting map in the new Shimano r8000 series synchro shift e-tube software. I love your videos and learn so much from them! Thanks!
as a life-long wrencher (& possibly one w/ adult ADD, easily distracted - squirrel - what?), I don't think I heard a word you said anytime you were shown in the "wide-shot" w/the pristine, gorgeous, Park-Tool super-shop setup...niiiiiice, dude!
No matter what I and my bike shop did we couldn't adjust my rear derailleur. However after a while it just got adjusted itself. Makes no noise and works now as an "automatic" gear. When I change to big ring in front the rear just goes to 1 easier gear by itself and vice versa. Don't know how healthy it is but it works!
I was running a Dura Ace chain on my Ultegra setup based on what every interweb anecdote and Shimano even said would work and I never could get the rear to be quiet on the low and the high cogs. Adjust for one end and the other would rattle. And back and forth I went. For weeks I tried (I used to wrench when I was younger and know my way around a bike). Finally I gave in and got an Ultegra chain, and simply swapping them with no other adjustment solved the problem. Point is, in ShimanoWorld, names matter.
this is one of the best how-to videos in a good while. I replaced my entire drive time not too long ago and followed Dan's video perfectly. I still have some minor adjustments to do and this video may very well solve the issues I am having. thank you good sir!
I'm not sure how many of your videos I've watched, but I have always learned something and enjoyed the time watching. Well done mates! I really should not say that cause I'm a yank, but when you guys say it, it sounds so cool.
Looking in the manual of my derailleur shimano has a very neat methode of setting "pre-stretching" the cables. If you have external cables, just clamp your cable and pull on it at the downtube. Simple, yet effective.
Hey GCN, follow you guys on almost everything. This video has helped me out tons. had major problems trying to correct my shifting and after this my shifting has been amazing. Just wanted to say thanks and keep it up.
My 'hack' for Shimano derailleur limit screws is to use a Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screwdriver instead of a regular Philips or flat blade type. The JIS standard screwdriver has extra teeth machined into the grip, which match the limit screws grip pattern, it fits very securely to JIS limits screws which many Shimano derailleurs have, and prevents your screwdriver slipping out (annoyingly often) while you are adjusting them. #gcntech
Nice.. I've been faffing around with my front derailleur for a while.. so much in fact I installed an inline barrel adjuster which really, didn't make much difference. Problem solved though. I like the second cog trick for the rear as well, certainly take the guess work out. Cheers!
some useful stuff here, also am I the only one to recycle old toothbrushes for chain cleaning? two with diluted detergent held against it above and below while running over chain then move chain backwards slowly gets it very clean and two more cleaner ones can re-lube it once dry, also handy for cleaning tricky areas of rear and front mech
Funny to see this video today.. Just yesterday I ended up taking my bike to the mechanic due to the hanger alignment being out. I was able to index and change through the gears, but was hearing a clinking sound in the second and third largest sprockets -- it's a new Giant Defy that's only done around 120km. I've been extremely careful with it, so not sure if it was dropped in the shop, or possibly just a manufacturing / QA issue. Problem is, the noise is still occurring slightly.. I was told I would need to 'ride it more' to fix it further, which doesn't exactly make a whole lot of sense to me. Also, another problem -- when pushing in the rear mech to set the low limit screw a week or two ago, not sure if I accidentally pushed on the cage, but I ended up losing spring tension required by the tension pulley. My bike only has Claris components, and the rear mech isn't fully serviceable - there's no set screw or way of releasing the spring and preloading it -- so that also had to be replaced in its entirety. I haven't been having much luck recently.. I'm already feeling the upgrade itch, in which case my current bike would be dedicated to a smart trainer.
In SRAM groupsets for sure, I do not have any road Shimano, you have to adjust via a small screw on the back of the rear derailleur the distance between the top jockey wheel and the cassette gears. At the correct distance (6mm) the shifting is very fast and accurate.
Thanks for the indexing methods. I'm a noob pretty much, using pre built bikes from places like walmart lol.... I had no idea this was a thing, but their bikes NEVER can shift into the easiest gear.... I know why now.
What do you guys think about using an XT 11-40t on a Road bike. I seen it done on another video, just wondering if its worth the bother and would there be any benefit for a new rode bike rider?
you don't need it. On a road bike, if you are in anything but mountainous terrain, the lowest you will need is a 32t first gear. In mountainous terrain, it will be handy having a good 36-38t sprocket.
This not make it little easier , it make it much easier ! , I spend hours trying to adjust the derailleur by guessing and still not work perfect ! , and after watch this video take me 5 minute to adjust the derailleur perfectly . Thank you for this video . it's best video on youtube on how to adjust the derailleur !.
i used to set my rear selector to highest gear then use the limit screw to push the rear derailleur up to the second highest and fit the cable. once the bolt was nipped up i would undo the limit screw and the derailleur would pull any slack through. it would normally end up sat nicely over the highest gear but at worst would just need a little fine tuning
i love that canyon bike, which one is it and how would you guys rate it? at the moment im using a boardman cx team bike with road tyres on for casual endurance rides (about 80-100 miles over 3 rides weekly)
I've watched every video of indexing gears I could find and nothing is as good as the method at 2.23. It's brilliant. Thanks
Great tips! One tip i would add... After a ride DON'T store the bike with the chain on the big ring. When the chain is on the big ring the rear derailer is stretched out. The springs in the rear derailer will out wear prematurely if stored this way over a period of months/years, which leads to sloppy shifts. The shifting will be far more crisp if after a ride the chain is put on the lower gears (12, 13) in the rear and the small chain ring in the front. As a result, the rear derailer will be its most compact and not stretching/wearing out the return springs in the rear derailer.
Cheers for this new to cycling and just been and chsnged how mine was stored, once again thanks 👍🏼
This never even occurred to me, I’ll be making sure to follow this advice from now on!
A bike not ridden for months/years is far more abusive
I work at a bike shop and have been working on bikes for over 10 years now and these videos still help. Awesome #appreciated
I just setup new inner cables on my bike using these hacks. Absolutely brilliant technique. Shifting was pretty much spot on on both mechs, a quick turn of each barrel adjuster and it's perfection. One of the best videos you've made.
Mustve Watched and tried the techniques off atleast 5 other videos...none of them seemed to fix my noisy gear issues....watched this one, followed the instructions and my issue is resolved! Thank you
One of the only (perhaps the only) video on derailleur setup of the limit screws that actually follows what Shimano says to do for how to adjust the high limit stop.
The indexing hack aka Shimano's hack that starts at 2:22 is amazing. This is the best advice I have ever seen for indexing rear deraillaur. It has always worked for me. 2 minutes tops. I don’t even bother with barrel shifters and guesswork gear indexing which might take upto 10-20 minutes to get right. Just use this method. Top marks to GCN.
Dude, the Shimano back just saved me from an indexing nightmare. Love you Simon!
You can always learn something new! Didn't know the 2nd cog method and the limit screw front deraillieur method after 16 years of biking and service. Well done, Sy!! Thanks!!
A nice one to remember here (a mate told me ages ago) for remembering which limit screw is which if you get High/Low mixed up (face it - the low gear on a cassette is actually high up!):
H = Hard gear
L = Lazy gear
Dave Haygarth brilliant mate :)
Or L = Low ( Low speed gear )
& H = High ( High speed gear )
EhButU that's actually how they're referred to anyways. otherwise, the only other option would be H=high tooth count, L=low tooth count.
DONTstealmykills, they are referred to as High and Low gear only, that was why I said "Low Speed" gear might help - - - BUT L=Low tooth count might confuse as the Low Gear (eg 28 rear ) actually has a high tooth count and the H does not = high tooth count as the High (Speed) Gear has only 11 or 12 tooth count
I know they are referred to High and Low gear only. I was merely saying that (if the designations were flipped) high tooth count and low tooth count would be the only other reference options. I am a bicycle mechanic after all.
At last! The video about correct cable tension! There are DOZENS of vids talking about adjusting shifting, but almost none of them are giving enough attention to cable tension! I will definitely try your advice!
Just got back into cycling over the past couple weeks after decades off the saddle. Now all I do is work, sleep, ride, eat, tune and tinker with my bike and watch GCN!
Welcome back Heather! 💪
That front derailleur trick is brilliant. I must try it.
Agree - I'm just re-aligning mine and will give it a go in the morning
check this out: ua-cam.com/video/St3whaq-pmA/v-deo.html
@@AlexYaroff That's the method I prefer (setting the lower limit screw so that the derailleur cage is juuust a hair away from the chain). Helps avoid a dropped chain from misshifting or a broken cable.
soooo gratefull for this video: I was on a ride today and my gears were acting funny, turned out to be a worn lower pulley. Bought some new ones on the way home, replaced them and fixed the shifting issues thanks to your video's. Now i can ride tommorow morning 👍👍👍 Thanks GCN!!!
I have just done this on what i thought was a knackered bike and nothing more could be done with it, i have yet to go on a ride but the test ride looked perfect. The only problem is that the front chainset adjustment didn't work in that i didn't have enough screw length to set the derailleur back to normal low speed mode, i also had to use some intelligence for the high gear ring as you didn't mention that, but no problem there. Thank you
Just fitting new front derailleur and was having trouble getting it indexed and working properly. Used this hack and its spot on.
Thank you for the limit-screw-front-cable-tension trick! Just ended an afternoon of frustration fighting to get enough tension back in my cable.
The index shortcut was the best tips! It makes indexing so easy 👍
Share your hacks for perfect gear shifting 👇
Global Cycling Network riding a fixed gear bike.
Global Cycling Network great video just amazing on how to index I can't wait to try it
Global Cycling Network Use a JIS screwdriver not a philips or flat blade.
Your last hack must be the the first one.
The rear derailleur hanger is made of much softer material than the frame is built of. It's a frame protective measure and it's OK to check and re-align it if needed. Though, for a carbon frame, having a pair of spare hangers would be a less stressful (for a bike owner) option.
Niels Heldens Or an infinite speed bike, NuVinci CVT is by far the best for super smooth shifting. If the number of speeds is countable and > 1, it won't be a smooth shifting bike.
The indexing hack works for me. Indexing in just a minute. Brilliant!
hack #6 - never assume a new replacement mech hanger is perfectly aligned either :)
Thx your front deraileur hack saved me ;) i tried to adjust it and totally screwed it up.... i felt like crying and then watched your video and fixed it within 10 minutes and a few tries
When did the correct procedure become a hack?
Macatron it makes Simon feel superior.
Niels Heldens I was expecting a real hack like using a JIS screw driver but instead we get a couple of pages of Park Tool's big blue book
Macatron I get that. I was only joking. But you're absolutely right, not a single "hack" was seen in this video.
Jeez you're a tough crowd you lot! Next week I might just go for a bike ride instead.
Simon Richardson if I can ride with you I would encourage you to do so.
Perfect timing. I've just changed my gear cables and need to index both derailleurs.
The simplest and understandable video ever seen. Free of jargons.
these are so clever i would have never thought of these
Currently trained to be a bike mechanic: I was told that to set the lower/higher limits of both front and rear, it's good to go until rub/noise is seen/heard and then back off. 2mm is actually a lot for the lower front limit to be away from the chain. Things tend to be easier on new gear / new bikes then worn ones
(if you have sram and non-round rings, do what I do: pray)
Having only dealt with beefier 7 and 8 speeds in the past the new 105 11 speed was giving me a ton of trouble. Finally found this video and started from scratch. Was done in 5-10 minutes and only required turning the barrel 1 turn for the rear derailleur after following your steps.
Only addendums I'd add is mostly closing /shortening all available adjusters before starting so you can open them as things stretch a bit over time and be careful with that lower limit screw on the front derailleur for the 105 it can slip pretty easy when you get to the point the chain touches the big cog.
Never been a bike mechanic, That indexing hack is brilliant! Thankyou
The two cable tension tips are particularly massive time savers, jut tied them out and it got me within a tiny tweak of a barrel adjuster in no time! 👍
Simon is the mechanic King at GCN!
Sooooo helpful, thank you very very much, I've been having real issues with my indexing... with these hacks (pro tips, I beg your pardon) I've nailed it... GET IN!!
Simon, this is the most important video with respect to front derailleur adjustment for bikes lacking barrel adjusters and internally routed cables. before I came across this video, I was not able to shit to the big chainwheel and was convinced that my new front 105 mech was defective. I was literally losing my mind. I actually signed in and subscribed because of this video. many thanks, cheers and happy trails......
I saw Hyde's derailleur break in that race! It made for a very exciting finish!
Thanks a lot, GCN! I've been riding bicycles for many years and never bothered to learn this stuff. Then again, when I started riding, there was no Internet, hence no UA-cam. SO glad to have survived into the 21st century.
Literally solved my indexing woes! Thank you!
thanks Simon I had a crash this winter and since my gears have been jumping thanks for the video it was a big help
Clearest explanation ever. Thanks man.
I am finally starting to understand this process. Thanks!
Been cycling for many years and this is still some thing that gets me every time - suppose bike shops need to make money some how 😂
Si - you've done it again - top video!!
Oops , he did it again!
That front derailleur cable trick is great - I have done similar just pushing the derailleur out by hand while tightening the cable - duh... Let the stop screw hold it... Been working on bikes for 40+ years and hadn't done that! One other detail on the rear hanger issue: The replaceable hanger is like a fuse in an electrical circuit: Designed to break before your $$$$ frame does. They sometime will fracture when you try straightening them, no matter how carefully you may do it. Set the expectation for the customer that even the shop may not be able to fix it. Good idea to carry a spare in your saddle bag - easy swap with a multi-tool on the side of the road - or cafe where your bike took a dive while you were slurping your coffee down...
Another thing to look for is if the derailleur body or cage is bent or twisted. A lot of the newer high-end cages are made of carbon, which either springs back or breaks - but many older or low-to-mid-range mechs are alloy - that can really affect shifting as well!
Not sure if someone’s already said it, but make sure there’s enough cable coming out of the frame for a nice easy radius at the rear mech. If the cable outer cable housing is too short, or the bend too sharp, it will bind and interfere with shifting. Currently dealing with this dilemma.
After this video I made better adjustments than the shop I last tuned it at. GCN has made me self sufficient with my bicycle as a whole. LUH YA!
Got to try that rear and front derailleur indexing trick
Excellent hack on how to pretension the cables & indexing!
Thanks guys, just saved me a whole heap of time, bad enough with a frayed STI cable in the lever! This got me up and running quickly. (Remember sometimes poor shifting isn't just indexing, it could be a damaged cable).
I was practicing all these hacks for quite a long time already, except the Shortcut hack. Thanks for that, really great one! And the tool, I have it, works great even on alu hangers. Noticed, that lot of frames nowadays arrive with bent or not ideally adjusted hangers just out of the box, so, this tool is a must, if you like to build your own bikes, just as I do.
thank you! I travel for the first time with my bike and it got a bit damaged. I used this video to figure out what was going on and fix it! really handy when there are no bike shops where I live!
Please do a video on choosing the most efficient shifting map in the new Shimano r8000 series synchro shift e-tube software.
I love your videos and learn so much from them! Thanks!
Outstanding!!! Found exactly what I was looking for, thank you!
That indexing trick is neat!
Hands down, excellent tips. Thanks.
as a life-long wrencher (& possibly one w/ adult ADD, easily distracted - squirrel - what?), I don't think I heard a word you said anytime you were shown in the "wide-shot" w/the pristine, gorgeous, Park-Tool super-shop setup...niiiiiice, dude!
I dare say, this is one of the most useful videos on UA-cam!
No matter what I and my bike shop did we couldn't adjust my rear derailleur. However after a while it just got adjusted itself. Makes no noise and works now as an "automatic" gear. When I change to big ring in front the rear just goes to 1 easier gear by itself and vice versa. Don't know how healthy it is but it works!
I was running a Dura Ace chain on my Ultegra setup based on what every interweb anecdote and Shimano even said would work and I never could get the rear to be quiet on the low and the high cogs. Adjust for one end and the other would rattle. And back and forth I went. For weeks I tried (I used to wrench when I was younger and know my way around a bike).
Finally I gave in and got an Ultegra chain, and simply swapping them with no other adjustment solved the problem. Point is, in ShimanoWorld, names matter.
In this case maybe the reason of my inadjustability is me using a Red chain on my Force setup hmmmm....
this is one of the best how-to videos in a good while. I replaced my entire drive time not too long ago and followed Dan's video perfectly. I still have some minor adjustments to do and this video may very well solve the issues I am having. thank you good sir!
I'm not sure how many of your videos I've watched, but I have always learned something and enjoyed the time watching. Well done mates! I really should not say that cause I'm a yank, but when you guys say it, it sounds so cool.
Looking in the manual of my derailleur shimano has a very neat methode of setting "pre-stretching" the cables. If you have external cables, just clamp your cable and pull on it at the downtube. Simple, yet effective.
Wow, this is great. This will save me a lot of time next time I have to adjust my cables!
This stuff is fantastic, even though it's way above my head.
very informative and clear speech....
Spot on ☘️😎
Hey GCN, follow you guys on almost everything. This video has helped me out tons. had major problems trying to correct my shifting and after this my shifting has been amazing. Just wanted to say thanks and keep it up.
My 'hack' for Shimano derailleur limit screws is to use a Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screwdriver instead of a regular Philips or flat blade type. The JIS standard screwdriver has extra teeth machined into the grip, which match the limit screws grip pattern, it fits very securely to JIS limits screws which many Shimano derailleurs have, and prevents your screwdriver slipping out (annoyingly often) while you are adjusting them. #gcntech
Clarity and illustration beyond compare. : )
Good stuff. I'm always loath to do this myself, but will try it out.
Thanks for the tips guys !
Great guide
Nice.. I've been faffing around with my front derailleur for a while.. so much in fact I installed an inline barrel adjuster which really, didn't make much difference. Problem solved though. I like the second cog trick for the rear as well, certainly take the guess work out. Cheers!
Need to try this indexing hack as indexing gears is the biggest problem i have being a new cyclist.
Perfect timing! I´ve just upgraded to 11 speed from 10 speed. Thanks.
Thanks mate! Added to favourites for the future use.
some useful stuff here, also am I the only one to recycle old toothbrushes for chain cleaning? two with diluted detergent held against it above and below while running over chain then move chain backwards slowly gets it very clean and two more cleaner ones can re-lube it once dry, also handy for cleaning tricky areas of rear and front mech
This is just the information I needed Thanks Guys. Video was perfect
you guys do nothing but help a bro out 👏👍👏
Funny to see this video today.. Just yesterday I ended up taking my bike to the mechanic due to the hanger alignment being out. I was able to index and change through the gears, but was hearing a clinking sound in the second and third largest sprockets -- it's a new Giant Defy that's only done around 120km. I've been extremely careful with it, so not sure if it was dropped in the shop, or possibly just a manufacturing / QA issue.
Problem is, the noise is still occurring slightly.. I was told I would need to 'ride it more' to fix it further, which doesn't exactly make a whole lot of sense to me.
Also, another problem -- when pushing in the rear mech to set the low limit screw a week or two ago, not sure if I accidentally pushed on the cage, but I ended up losing spring tension required by the tension pulley. My bike only has Claris components, and the rear mech isn't fully serviceable - there's no set screw or way of releasing the spring and preloading it -- so that also had to be replaced in its entirety.
I haven't been having much luck recently.. I'm already feeling the upgrade itch, in which case my current bike would be dedicated to a smart trainer.
does this work with mountain bikes as well? tried it on my road bike and it worked really well
The 6th hack for Campagnolo derailleur adjustment is prayer.
Thank you for the video
In SRAM groupsets for sure, I do not have any road Shimano, you have to adjust via a small screw on the back of the rear derailleur the distance between the top jockey wheel and the cassette gears. At the correct distance (6mm) the shifting is very fast and accurate.
Just done this and finally i'm ready for anything....... As long as anything is short, sweet and most definitely downhill.
pilo hanger did a great job on making nice rear hanger
Thanks for the indexing methods. I'm a noob pretty much, using pre built bikes from places like walmart lol.... I had no idea this was a thing, but their bikes NEVER can shift into the easiest gear.... I know why now.
What do you guys think about using an XT 11-40t on a Road bike. I seen it done on another video, just wondering if its worth the bother and would there be any benefit for a new rode bike rider?
you don't need it. On a road bike, if you are in anything but mountainous terrain, the lowest you will need is a 32t first gear. In mountainous terrain, it will be handy having a good 36-38t sprocket.
Really clear and well presented information. Thankyou
Does the front derailleur hack also apply with a triple crankset?
This not make it little easier , it make it much easier ! , I spend hours trying to adjust the derailleur by guessing and still not work perfect ! , and after watch this video take me 5 minute to adjust the derailleur perfectly . Thank you for this video . it's best video on youtube on how to adjust the derailleur !.
Thanks so much,especially Mister you type Taiwanese on it made us read it without any problems.謝謝，mean thanks.
Great video... albeit 24 hours late when I was on the side of the road frantically trying to dodge up some gears to get me into town.
WoW that video of how to index your gears with awesome informative can't wait to try it
Awesome tips. Thanks guys!
That was terrific! Thanks guys
i used to set my rear selector to highest gear then use the limit screw to push the rear derailleur up to the second highest and fit the cable. once the bolt was nipped up i would undo the limit screw and the derailleur would pull any slack through. it would normally end up sat nicely over the highest gear but at worst would just need a little fine tuning
Do you tighten the barrel all the way in (clockwise) before doing all the steps here for indexing the rear wheel?
Any chance of a full Park Tool set un-box and comp!? Love that back wall!!!
Most useful video I’ve seen in UA-cam
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the support, Alex!
Does the front der hack work for camyp chorus as well as Shimano
i love that canyon bike, which one is it and how would you guys rate it?
at the moment im using a boardman cx team bike with road tyres on for casual endurance rides (about 80-100 miles over 3 rides weekly)
adjusting the front d. hack worked for me on 105