8 years on and this video is still amazing. Just serviced the headset on my road bike myself for the first time as I could feel a fair bit of grit and sand had made its way in there. Thanks Simon!
Followed this video to get rid of a very annoying creaking noise after riding in the rain a few times , worked a treat the front end is now silent again.
Simon thank you for this. I’ve just done my first bearing overhaul based on this and I felt confident watching this and following your guide. Always love the GCN videos and team. Thanks 🚲 🙏
THANK YOU! I watched a few of the maintenance videos which led me to this one. I have been riding for a while and doing my own maintenance, but I never realized there were bearings in the headset that needed servicing. I did that this weekend, but noticed the headset was loose on a ride. Watching your videos again, I realized that the bolt holds everything tight and on further inspection, I needed another spacer to keep everything tight. IT's all fixed up now and everything feels great. Again, Thanks and great videos! Glad I found you guys!
Great video among a superb series on servicing the bike! Well done GCN and special thanks to Simon who is mostly in charge with this topic of the GCN show!!!
This has just restored my sanity. My headset wasn't fully tight and the front fork was rattling on rough roads. It was driving me bonkers. Thanks for the video Si.
I'm just returning to cycling, and I'm attempting to get myself back in shape so I can start commuting to work (6mi each way, 5/days per week with a beast of a hill each way). I've just serviced my hybrid, including the headset, which was filthy. My top tip for cleaning the bearings is to use an old hand cream tub and fill it about a third full of white spirit (or your chosen degreaser), drop the bearing in screw the lid down then give it a gentle shake for a minute or so. It's amazing just how much crap comes out of the bearings.
Great simple and clear advice as ever. Bottom bearing, though still moving was stuck fast. WD40 and gentle prying with a screw driver didn't work, so a bit of plastic pipe down the stem and a gentle "tap" with a rubber mallet. That did the job, but tbe the complete sealed bearing split into 4 pieces and the ball bearings vanished all over the garage floor! Looks like I'm going the bike shop tomorrow!
Note in a Giant OD2 headset there is a very thin (0.3mm?) metal shim that goes between the bearing cap and the compression ring. this part is critical in the OD2 headsets working - without it the bearing cap compresses on the top of the head tube and it binds up.
Just followed this guide for my Defy, turns out there wasn't that much grease on it originally... Explains why it squeaked. Excellent guide, cheers guys.
Thank you so much Si! I came home from a ride on my brand new folding bike when I noticed a clunk while turning, worried something was broken but after going through your video I reset the bolt tension correctly and it's just like new, and I know how to service it in future. You guys are the best!
Good explanation. I have a Ribble sport 872 which uses a Level 52 Headset - 42-52mm Tapered. I’ve done approaching 6000 miles with Mansfield RC on it and I’m just gonna change it as a general service. I did the bottom bracket on it after 1000 as it was bought second hand.
Time to watch this video since my bike is squeaking somewhere on the front wheel, but I _just_ serviced the front hub today, so it's probably the headset. Thanks!
brilliant video, just had a crack at mine for the first time (used the comuter not the race bike, incase mistakes were made). cheers for the help an £40 saving from the bike shop.
Great tutorial thanks a lot! Did this for the first time; even ended up taking the bearings themselves apart to clean; wasn't enough though and the bottom one needs urgent replacement!
hi just want to say thank you. Been getting a clicking towards the front of the bike, doesn't go away when I stop pedalling and the more pressure on the handle bars the worse it is. I tried this. Still need to test the bike out to see if it's cured but had fun and learnt something new! Thanks so much
They make them more simple than they used to be. Thanks for the video. Mine has been a little squeaky, but I've been lazy to service them, and I rode in a huge down pour yesterday. Started home today, and the dam thing seized. Almost killed me, and then I had to walk it back for 2 hours. First time in 45 years that happened.
Mistakes happen. Thankfully, if you can put a couple of hours aside, you can fully service your bike and have it running like new with little to no effort, especially with sealed bearings. No more worrying about loose beads.
I just performed this and what a difference. The bottom bearing had all the gunk on it and was just wee bit noisy. I cleaned out the old grease and repacked it and it's quiet as a church mouse now and my steerer is smoother with less friction. With that said, I wonder how many pro bike racers know how to perform work on their rides. Thanks for the video.
I find turning the handlebar to the left or right to check for play. That way there is no small wheel movement despite the brake engaged. I'd also be inclined to use less grease as it basically becomes a magnet of all kinds of crap sticking to it.
I live in Florida so yeah this has been an issue.Got a bicycle with a tapered headset tube essentially bottom bearing ring bigger than the top bearing cage ring.Well bottom bearing cage ring got crushed after the headset came loose and I didn't check to see if the ring was back up in the headset before tightening top cap.None of the local bicycle shops had that size of bearing cage ring so it was suggested I go old school with grease and loose bearings.Man it was not easy but put in more loose bearings left a gap so they could move around easily in cup.Did the trick.No more fighting my bicycle when steering and front moves,swinga freely no sticking!
Excellent video thanks. I loosened my stem to pack my bike away in bikebox. The fork fell out and those barings went everywhere. Have not been able to figure out how to get it back together the way it was. This video was useful as at least now I know what some of the parts are for. I don't remember the spacing though. Wish I'd seen this video first!
You didn't show taking out or replacing the top top cartridge bearing. Which way round should it be, rubber seal up or down? Also I noticed my compression ring a the cover didn't hold the fork in when I replaced it - I had to balance on one leg and hold it in with my foot, much to the neighbours amusement.
watched this video in early january and got inspired. cleaning your headset outside without a workstand or gloves, in sub-zero temepratures, is not fun. particularly when your hands get wet
I wonder should you really should put grease towards the frame before puttning in the bearing half? Isnt the two peaces suppose to rotate against eachother and not towards the frame, if you catch my drift.. Not that it matter that much, but still 😁
Although not generally applicable during normal maintenance, I suppose you may also mention the use of expander bungs for carbon steerer in place of a star nut. Perheps a video on how to replace a fork later on?
Someone needs there front brake adjusted, brake lever touching the handlebar big no no haha. Nice video. I did this on my first trek as i was getting a clicking over bumps. Took everything apart and re-greased.
Great vid, just cleaned my headset but on my bike I had an additional part which needed loosening and removing before the top bearing and cap could be removed. Was trying to pull bearing and cap off but wouldn't budge when at top. Having a closer look I seen an Allen key shape in this part where I loosened and then happy days. I've got a lapierre just in case any1 has similar issue
Very useful video. On a second watching, though, it seems (though maybe I am somehow missing it) that you do not show the loosening of the stem bolts. I am going to guess this comes after the loosening of the top cap bolt and before lifting the bar and stem off the bike.
After greasing the headset and inserting the fork, compress the bearings, then remove the fork again. The new grease will hopefully push out old dirty grease from the bearing cartridges. This worked for my non-integrated lower bearing at least.
I was hoping this would be a discussion on servicing those Bluetooth headsets I use whilst biking. Always a pain when you're jamming to music pedalling hard and all of a sudden the connection is lost! 😅
Great videos from GCN! Just one gripe...background 'music'! Why?? Distracting, annoying and pointless, especially when trying to listen to detailed instructions. Never went to a lecture at Uni where they felt the need to have a guitarist or 15 piece orchestra playing at the same time. Only one other point..you can never explain things too clearly or slowly, nor can you beat ultra clear camera work. Otherwise, really great stuff guys, please keep 'em coming...
Great video! I have sometimes the problem that after tightning the headset top cap the spacers can still turn around. I suppose that if the compression is ok, everything must be firm and the spacers can't move around? Anybody a suggestion?
Many of us keep on riding bikes some 30 or 40 years old, like the one you showed us comparing the new and the old generation of bikes. Is it possible to make a nice video like this one, and show us how exactly should we service that old type of headset? Thank you.
Any reason you didn't use something like isopropyl achohol to help remove the old grease? I understood that this was good because it quickly evaporates leaving a clean dry surface for the new grease.
+Global Cycling Network I wanted to service my bike's headset but I'm having a difficulty. I have a GPS tracker in there and I have no idea what to do now. any suggestions?
I'm gonna take a shot at your question, and the solution is probably simpler than you think. You must be referring to a tube-shaped GPS inside the steerer tube, I assume. That entire GPS unit slides right out, while removing the hex bolt at the top, and when re-installed, together they do the same job as a threadless headset top-cap & bolt. That is, they create the initial compression that sets the adjustment on the bearings. Once the tracker is removed from the bike (by removing that extra-long top bolt), you can then proceed to service or replace the bearings or the entire headset assembly, as shown in this video. Once you've done that, you can re-assemble the headset and then use that same bolt of the GPS to FINE-TUNE the bearing adjustment, and then align the stem to the wheel & tighten the stem bolts. The tightened stem itself actually provides the brute clamping force to KEEP the bearings adjusted, and you could actually remove the GPS unit (or, the top-cap & short bolt of a threadless w/no GPS) at that point & ride the bike without it, the same as you can do to a standard threadless headset. In essence, the GPS unit and its bolt are simply replacing the top-cap & bolt of the original headset. The bolt and the GPS should be removed together, so try gradually raising the GPS out of the steerer tube as the bolt is loosened, removing the bolt & GPS as a single assembly. GPS or no, the top bolt is really only an adjuster, and not an adjustment-locking mechanism. If the stem was just barely tight enough to stay aligned with the wheel, the top bolt, the cap, and the nut would be taking the brunt of a task they weren't designed to do. They may hold the adjustment a while, but the threads may come loose or strip, and/or the top cap could cave in or even break from the transfer of the stresses of actual riding. They'd only last a very short time in actual use before the bearings first went out of adjustment, followed by some real damage, including to the rider. The type of nut that holds this bolt may be one of two types: One is the star-fangled nut commonly used for threadless headsets, and the other is a cylindrical assembly that I'll refer to as an "expanding nut", for lack of a proper term. On the cylindrical type, it has a large bolt that is tightened to expand the assembly until it firmly grips the inside of the steerer, and that large bolt has the smaller threaded hole into which the cap bolt is threaded' this type of anchor can be removed & re-used, using a larger (6mm?) hex key. A star-fangled nut can only be removed by using a punch and a mallet to drive it downward & out the bottom of the steerer tube, and should never be re-used once it's been removed. You won't need to remove the nut to merely service your bearings anyway, but if you perhaps sell the bike and want to keep your GPS, you'll want an original-style top cap and another extra-long bolt to replace the GPS parts on the bike. A long replacement bolt is necessary, since when the GPS was installed, the anchoring nut was re-located much deeper into the steerer than a standard anchoring nut would normally be (to make room for the GPS unit). You certainly can install a new star-fangled nut in the upper area of the steerer if you wish to use the standard short top-cap bolt, but I don't recommend this unless you first remove the cylindrical expansion nut below it. You'll never get either of them out of the steerer, if they're both in there like that at the same time. Okay, in truth, you COULD get them out, but it'd involve machinery and probably at least a little damage to the interior surface of the steerer. If you're confident that there's no dirt, wear, or a lack of lube in the (loose) bearings, you can simply try loosening the clamp bolts on the stem where it attaches to the steerer tube and then making the bolt at the top tighter, skipping ahead to the last part of this video as a guide for final adjustment, and you just might be okay. Just check it afterward for roughness or center-detention -- sure signs of at least dirt, and at worst, damage to the bearings and/or cups & races. They would need replacing, if so. Hope this helps.
It would be great to see a video where you compare different groupsets (not just high end ones) tell your own opinions wich is better and why and if you included smaller more affordable brands like microshift that would be great.Just for the case if you are thinking about new topics for your videos :D
The same here i dont really get why is ms so less known.I tought that there must be some hidden disadvantage but after reading your comment and several other forums I think that is what I am looking for.Thanks!
And I think it's always the conical shaped side of the bearing that goes into the head tube, so the top one and the bottom one are placed the opposite way.
Machoortiz There was a metal tube that is supposed to hold the special bolt in place, but it was broken, It took me 3 hours to get it out, fixed with industrial glue
My HOY Sa Colabra headset is clicking and is overdue a service. I will follow Si instructions and see how I get on. More than likely need to replace the bearings though.
The Cane Creek website no longer has the bearings finder feature (probably too time consuming to keep it up to date with every bike produced?) however if you click on Everything You Need to Know About Headsets button you will get info on how to interpret the numbers printed on the existing bearings case or alternatively how to measure steerer / headset to order replacements.
I didn't see him putting the top bearing back in its place. The bearing cover came onto the compression ring. Do I get it correct? Or was there no top bearing?
Thanks for the video! I find this and all the other videos yo have very helpful. I had followed this video to resolve a creaking noise, then on my first ride after I was wondering: what about the steerer tube?! Does it need any compound - or make sure there is no compound - to ride safely? I had put this together, as you did in the video, but without paying special attention to the steerer tube's connection with the stem. I tested the headset for play as you showed in the video. I also tested the connection to the stem by pulling on the bar while standing over the front wheel. However, I was still worried about it on my first ride as I wasn't quite sure if I did the right thing: should there be no (fiber grip) compound on the surface between the steerer tube and stem (both are carbon on my bike)? At a minimum, I should probably make sure there *isn't* any residual grease on the steerer tube when putting the stem on?
What about one or two retro bike maintainence videos, ive got an old ragleigh which definately needs some tlc, but thete are certain parts of an old bike which seem a bit hard to fix. Also updating certain parts of an old bike such as the hoods or headset would be very useful videos.... at least for me :)
When I tighten everything up as shown at the point of reassembling I can still turn the handle bars if I have the front wheel clamped between my knees (though it's stiff). Should that be happening??
I never did this, and I'm a bit afraid of messing it up. On top of that, I don't know if my bike has bearings on the headset or spheres. Any way to know without taking if off in the first place?
6:50 What if the bearing cover does not fit snuggly over the bearings? On my Cervelo R3 the cover does not touch the frame, which leaves about 1-2 mm of the bearings exposed and play in my headset that I haven't been able to get rid of yet... Thanks for any help
Luciano Narno Thanks for the help. I realized that I simply didn't have enough spacers above my stem (after recently cutting my steer tube down a bit). Silly mistake
How in the world do you get your top cap bolt back into the star nut or bung if it drops down into the steer tube? I've been lying on my back with my frame upside down for the last 15 minutes trying to get that bolt to start but it keeps pushing the bung up and away from it. Also, I'm assuming the taper on the bung goes toward the cap bolt. (Hope you can get what I'm saying from my word picture here.)
Question: I removed the wheel, brakes and handlebars, but I couldnt get the fork to slide through below because the stem seems to be stuck in the 3 bontrager spacers above. How can I free the stem from these spacers?
I did tighten the top screw but it still loose beetwen headset and the wheel. What should I do. I use Fingard bike. I really need to fix them cuz the road is full of bumping area in my community house. help me.
8 years on and this video is still amazing. Just serviced the headset on my road bike myself for the first time as I could feel a fair bit of grit and sand had made its way in there. Thanks Simon!
Simon you sir are very good teacher, humble and clear in your presentation, i used this lesson to service my MTB head set .thank you
Followed this video to get rid of a very annoying creaking noise after riding in the rain a few times , worked a treat the front end is now silent again.
Simon thank you for this. I’ve just done my first bearing overhaul based on this and I felt confident watching this and following your guide. Always love the GCN videos and team. Thanks 🚲 🙏
THANK YOU! I watched a few of the maintenance videos which led me to this one. I have been riding for a while and doing my own maintenance, but I never realized there were bearings in the headset that needed servicing. I did that this weekend, but noticed the headset was loose on a ride. Watching your videos again, I realized that the bolt holds everything tight and on further inspection, I needed another spacer to keep everything tight. IT's all fixed up now and everything feels great. Again, Thanks and great videos! Glad I found you guys!
Great video among a superb series on servicing the bike! Well done GCN and special thanks to Simon who is mostly in charge with this topic of the GCN show!!!
This has just restored my sanity. My headset wasn't fully tight and the front fork was rattling on rough roads. It was driving me bonkers. Thanks for the video Si.
Glad it helped!
I'm just returning to cycling, and I'm attempting to get myself back in shape so I can start commuting to work (6mi each way, 5/days per week with a beast of a hill each way). I've just serviced my hybrid, including the headset, which was filthy. My top tip for cleaning the bearings is to use an old hand cream tub and fill it about a third full of white spirit (or your chosen degreaser), drop the bearing in screw the lid down then give it a gentle shake for a minute or so. It's amazing just how much crap comes out of the bearings.
Great simple and clear advice as ever. Bottom bearing, though still moving was stuck fast. WD40 and gentle prying with a screw driver didn't work, so a bit of plastic pipe down the stem and a gentle "tap" with a rubber mallet. That did the job, but tbe the complete sealed bearing split into 4 pieces and the ball bearings vanished all over the garage floor! Looks like I'm going the bike shop tomorrow!
Note in a Giant OD2 headset there is a very thin (0.3mm?) metal shim that goes between the bearing cap and the compression ring. this part is critical in the OD2 headsets working - without it the bearing cap compresses on the top of the head tube and it binds up.
Just followed this guide for my Defy, turns out there wasn't that much grease on it originally... Explains why it squeaked. Excellent guide, cheers guys.
Thank you so much Si! I came home from a ride on my brand new folding bike when I noticed a clunk while turning, worried something was broken but after going through your video I reset the bolt tension correctly and it's just like new, and I know how to service it in future. You guys are the best!
Pro tip: keep one finger grease-free so you don't get grease all over your laptop space bar!
Hilarious!
Tim Ball ha ha, yep, i was using a knuckle on the tablet. doh
I wish I'd read this comment first! :D
I always use my nose
Tim Ball or phone screen!🤣🤣🤣
Love how these vids make me want to be my own mechanic!
Good explanation. I have a Ribble sport 872 which uses a Level 52 Headset - 42-52mm Tapered. I’ve done approaching 6000 miles with Mansfield RC on it and I’m just gonna change it as a general service. I did the bottom bracket on it after 1000 as it was bought second hand.
Time to watch this video since my bike is squeaking somewhere on the front wheel, but I _just_ serviced the front hub today, so it's probably the headset. Thanks!
The bearing that is pressed in my frame, which you see at 4:40, has come loose. This causes the slack. Is it possible to replace it? Thanks
brilliant video, just had a crack at mine for the first time (used the comuter not the race bike, incase mistakes were made). cheers for the help an £40 saving from the bike shop.
Great tutorial thanks a lot! Did this for the first time; even ended up taking the bearings themselves apart to clean; wasn't enough though and the bottom one needs urgent replacement!
Glad it helped
Thanks GCN a big help. just did my first head set cleaning. and got rid of a bump ! --- Toronto
hi just want to say thank you. Been getting a clicking towards the front of the bike, doesn't go away when I stop pedalling and the more pressure on the handle bars the worse it is. I tried this. Still need to test the bike out to see if it's cured but had fun and learnt something new! Thanks so much
They make them more simple than they used to be.
Thanks for the video. Mine has been a little squeaky, but I've been lazy to service them, and I rode in a huge down pour yesterday. Started home today, and the dam thing seized. Almost killed me, and then I had to walk it back for 2 hours.
First time in 45 years that happened.
Mistakes happen. Thankfully, if you can put a couple of hours aside, you can fully service your bike and have it running like new with little to no effort, especially with sealed bearings. No more worrying about loose beads.
I just performed this and what a difference. The bottom bearing had all the gunk on it and was just wee bit noisy. I cleaned out the old grease and repacked it and it's quiet as a church mouse now and my steerer is smoother with less friction. With that said, I wonder how many pro bike racers know how to perform work on their rides.
Thanks for the video.
This is 10 times better than the 2021 remake of this video. 👏
I have a FSA headset and I can imagine this is what I'll be doing. Good demonstration.
Thank you Simon, worked exactly as you explained.
great video. Now I'll be able to service these modern ones. I've done many threaded headsets.
Thank you very much - just the information I needed, no nonsense delivery and clearly presented.
Just solved my issue, all because I had the handle bars tightened in position. Thanks GCN ;).
Wow, it feels good to be the 1 millionth viewer! Just when I needed the video too...
Good post - clear explanations and very useful
Just resolved a really annoying creak on my bike after watching this. Awesome.
Glad we could help!
I find turning the handlebar to the left or right to check for play. That way there is no small wheel movement despite the brake engaged.
I'd also be inclined to use less grease as it basically becomes a magnet of all kinds of crap sticking to it.
Thank you mate, I have solved my bearings problem out with your suggestions about servicing the fork. Cheeers +++
Thanks for this lesson! I was able to service my headset and get rid of a noise when I steer the headset.
I live in Florida so yeah this has been an issue.Got a bicycle with a tapered headset tube essentially bottom bearing ring bigger than the top bearing cage ring.Well bottom bearing cage ring got crushed after the headset came loose and I didn't check to see if the ring was back up in the headset before tightening top cap.None of the local bicycle shops had that size of bearing cage ring so it was suggested I go old school with grease and loose bearings.Man it was not easy but put in more loose bearings left a gap so they could move around easily in cup.Did the trick.No more fighting my bicycle when steering and front moves,swinga freely no sticking!
cheers I like these How To videos as a bicycle mechanic is a good way to remind myself how to do these things
Today is 2021, thanks for the video simon... It helped me a lot
Excellent video thanks. I loosened my stem to pack my bike away in bikebox. The fork fell out and those barings went everywhere. Have not been able to figure out how to get it back together the way it was. This video was useful as at least now I know what some of the parts are for. I don't remember the spacing though. Wish I'd seen this video first!
The best bike related videos on UA-cam so far! Keep up the good work!
You didn't show taking out or replacing the top top cartridge bearing. Which way round should it be, rubber seal up or down?
Also I noticed my compression ring a the cover didn't hold the fork in when I replaced it - I had to balance on one leg and hold it in with my foot, much to the neighbours amusement.
GOD BLESS THIS VIDEO! i've been installing my bearings in the wrong way, till' i came across this vid!
watched this video in early january and got inspired.
cleaning your headset outside without a workstand or gloves, in sub-zero temepratures, is not fun. particularly when your hands get wet
Glad to hear you were inspired - completely sympathise with the freezing temperatures though, that's no fun at all!
6:40 Might as well put a rubber band between the fork and frame to keep it all together while working on it.
Everything on my bike is antiquated and I always have to watch a second video lol. Traditional headset video for me
Great video, thank you, straight to the point and easy to do… in theory, I’ll give it a go and see what happens
Really happy you enjoyed it Andres!
I wonder should you really should put grease towards the frame before puttning in the bearing half? Isnt the two peaces suppose to rotate against eachother and not towards the frame, if you catch my drift.. Not that it matter that much, but still 😁
Although not generally applicable during normal maintenance, I suppose you may also mention the use of expander bungs for carbon steerer in place of a star nut. Perheps a video on how to replace a fork later on?
I had to add two thin spacers because turning the handlebar to the left all of a sudden got stiff, tough to turn. Much better now.
Thanks! I was tightening the stem bolts before the top cap... Oops. And that was making the headset squeak.
Someone needs there front brake adjusted, brake lever touching the handlebar big no no haha. Nice video. I did this on my first trek as i was getting a clicking over bumps. Took everything apart and re-greased.
Great vid, just cleaned my headset but on my bike I had an additional part which needed loosening and removing before the top bearing and cap could be removed. Was trying to pull bearing and cap off but wouldn't budge when at top. Having a closer look I seen an Allen key shape in this part where I loosened and then happy days. I've got a lapierre just in case any1 has similar issue
Thanks for this video! i have been meaning to do this for a while, this got me motivated again.
Very useful video. On a second watching, though, it seems (though maybe I am somehow missing it) that you do not show the loosening of the stem bolts. I am going to guess this comes after the loosening of the top cap bolt and before lifting the bar and stem off the bike.
After greasing the headset and inserting the fork, compress the bearings, then remove the fork again. The new grease will hopefully push out old dirty grease from the bearing cartridges. This worked for my non-integrated lower bearing at least.
I was hoping this would be a discussion on servicing those Bluetooth headsets I use whilst biking. Always a pain when you're jamming to music pedalling hard and all of a sudden the connection is lost! 😅
Thanks Si, that fixed it for me!
Good stuff. BTW don't forget to align the logos on your spacers.
Great videos from GCN! Just one gripe...background 'music'! Why?? Distracting, annoying and pointless, especially when trying to listen to detailed instructions. Never went to a lecture at Uni where they felt the need to have a guitarist or 15 piece orchestra playing at the same time. Only one other point..you can never explain things too clearly or slowly, nor can you beat ultra clear camera work. Otherwise, really great stuff guys, please keep 'em coming...
Great video! I have sometimes the problem that after tightning the headset top cap the spacers can still turn around. I suppose that if the compression is ok, everything must be firm and the spacers can't move around? Anybody a suggestion?
Easy to understand for me that. Cheers
smart idea to have your fingers around the headset to feel for any play! thnx
One of your most useful videos! Keep up the good work! 🙂
Many of us keep on riding bikes some 30 or 40 years old, like the one you showed us comparing the new and the old generation of bikes.
Is it possible to make a nice video like this one, and show us how exactly should we service that old type of headset?
Thank you.
Servicing older bikes is something we've talked about in the past and we probably will cover it in the future.
Thank you!
Can you provide me with the appropriate link of the video?
Youbatfalcontube Sorry, I meant we had talked about covering those kinds of things, but we've not actually made a video on it yet :-s
Thank you!
A really great help thanks 🙏
Any reason you didn't use something like isopropyl achohol to help remove the old grease? I understood that this was good because it quickly evaporates leaving a clean dry surface for the new grease.
Great video ! Very helpful for service my bike. Kudos
+Jonathan Araya Gld the video helped Jonathan and thanks for getting in touch!
+Global Cycling Network I wanted to service my bike's headset but I'm having a difficulty. I have a GPS tracker in there and I have no idea what to do now. any suggestions?
I'm gonna take a shot at your question, and the solution is probably simpler than you think. You must be referring to a tube-shaped GPS inside the steerer tube, I assume. That entire GPS unit slides right out, while removing the hex bolt at the top, and when re-installed, together they do the same job as a threadless headset top-cap & bolt. That is, they create the initial compression that sets the adjustment on the bearings. Once the tracker is removed from the bike (by removing that extra-long top bolt), you can then proceed to service or replace the bearings or the entire headset assembly, as shown in this video.
Once you've done that, you can re-assemble the headset and then use that same bolt of the GPS to FINE-TUNE the bearing adjustment, and then align the stem to the wheel & tighten the stem bolts. The tightened stem itself actually provides the brute clamping force to KEEP the bearings adjusted, and you could actually remove the GPS unit (or, the top-cap & short bolt of a threadless w/no GPS) at that point & ride the bike without it, the same as you can do to a standard threadless headset. In essence, the GPS unit and its bolt are simply replacing the top-cap & bolt of the original headset. The bolt and the GPS should be removed together, so try gradually raising the GPS out of the steerer tube as the bolt is loosened, removing the bolt & GPS as a single assembly.
GPS or no, the top bolt is really only an adjuster, and not an adjustment-locking mechanism. If the stem was just barely tight enough to stay aligned with the wheel, the top bolt, the cap, and the nut would be taking the brunt of a task they weren't designed to do. They may hold the adjustment a while, but the threads may come loose or strip, and/or the top cap could cave in or even break from the transfer of the stresses of actual riding. They'd only last a very short time in actual use before the bearings first went out of adjustment, followed by some real damage, including to the rider.
The type of nut that holds this bolt may be one of two types: One is the star-fangled nut commonly used for threadless headsets, and the other is a cylindrical assembly that I'll refer to as an "expanding nut", for lack of a proper term. On the cylindrical type, it has a large bolt that is tightened to expand the assembly until it firmly grips the inside of the steerer, and that large bolt has the smaller threaded hole into which the cap bolt is threaded' this type of anchor can be removed & re-used, using a larger (6mm?) hex key. A star-fangled nut can only be removed by using a punch and a mallet to drive it downward & out the bottom of the steerer tube, and should never be re-used once it's been removed.
You won't need to remove the nut to merely service your bearings anyway, but if you perhaps sell the bike and want to keep your GPS, you'll want an original-style top cap and another extra-long bolt to replace the GPS parts on the bike. A long replacement bolt is necessary, since when the GPS was installed, the anchoring nut was re-located much deeper into the steerer than a standard anchoring nut would normally be (to make room for the GPS unit).
You certainly can install a new star-fangled nut in the upper area of the steerer if you wish to use the standard short top-cap bolt, but I don't recommend this unless you first remove the cylindrical expansion nut below it. You'll never get either of them out of the steerer, if they're both in there like that at the same time. Okay, in truth, you COULD get them out, but it'd involve machinery and probably at least a little damage to the interior surface of the steerer.
If you're confident that there's no dirt, wear, or a lack of lube in the (loose) bearings, you can simply try loosening the clamp bolts on the stem where it attaches to the steerer tube and then making the bolt at the top tighter, skipping ahead to the last part of this video as a guide for final adjustment, and you just might be okay. Just check it afterward for roughness or center-detention -- sure signs of at least dirt, and at worst, damage to the bearings and/or cups & races. They would need replacing, if so.
Hope this helps.
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It would be great to see a video where you compare different groupsets (not just high end ones) tell your own opinions wich is better and why and if you included smaller more affordable brands like microshift that would be great.Just for the case if you are thinking about new topics for your videos :D
The same here i dont really get why is ms so less known.I tought that there must be some hidden disadvantage but after reading your comment and several other forums I think that is what I am looking for.Thanks!
And I think it's always the conical shaped side of the bearing that goes into the head tube, so the top one and the bottom one are placed the opposite way.
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I unscrewed that bolt, and the part that holds on to that just fell down the fork, and i can't get it back...
Any... help?
By now. I hope you got it but you can remove the fork and flip it . It should slide out.
Machoortiz There was a metal tube that is supposed to hold the special bolt in place, but it was broken, It took me 3 hours to get it out, fixed with industrial glue
My HOY Sa Colabra headset is clicking and is overdue a service. I will follow Si instructions and see how I get on.
More than likely need to replace the bearings though.
Good one Simon but it would have been nice if you talked about indicators of worn bearings.
Absolutely amazing video
awesome video. cleaned so much gunk out the headset. top marks!
cane creek mustve gotten rid of that head set bearings finder
Perfect, exactly what I was looking for.
Hi do you have the link to the Cane Creek Head Set where you can selection you bike model, thanks
The Cane Creek website no longer has the bearings finder feature (probably too time consuming to keep it up to date with every bike produced?) however if you click on Everything You Need to Know About Headsets button you will get info on how to interpret the numbers printed on the existing bearings case or alternatively how to measure steerer / headset to order replacements.
I didn't see him putting the top bearing back in its place. The bearing cover came onto the compression ring. Do I get it correct? Or was there no top bearing?
sy....you are a fine educator. excellent job showing us the way. :)
this is the way
Very helpful
Thanks for the video! I find this and all the other videos yo have very helpful. I had followed this video to resolve a creaking noise, then on my first ride after I was wondering: what about the steerer tube?! Does it need any compound - or make sure there is no compound - to ride safely?
I had put this together, as you did in the video, but without paying special attention to the steerer tube's connection with the stem. I tested the headset for play as you showed in the video. I also tested the connection to the stem by pulling on the bar while standing over the front wheel. However, I was still worried about it on my first ride as I wasn't quite sure if I did the right thing: should there be no (fiber grip) compound on the surface between the steerer tube and stem (both are carbon on my bike)? At a minimum, I should probably make sure there *isn't* any residual grease on the steerer tube when putting the stem on?
What about one or two retro bike maintainence videos, ive got an old ragleigh which definately needs some tlc, but thete are certain parts of an old bike which seem a bit hard to fix. Also updating certain parts of an old bike such as the hoods or headset would be very useful videos.... at least for me :)
Thanks mate
Crystal clear. Thank you!
When I tighten everything up as shown at the point of reassembling I can still turn the handle bars if I have the front wheel clamped between my knees (though it's stiff). Should that be happening??
Not sure here but do you need to grease a sealed or cartridge bearing? I thought they're suppose to be sealed?
I never did this, and I'm a bit afraid of messing it up. On top of that, I don't know if my bike has bearings on the headset or spheres. Any way to know without taking if off in the first place?
Since you guys are riding Canyon like I do, could you do a video sometime about the weird system Canyon is using (acros Ai-70)? Thanks!
How to change your non tapered fork to tapered fork on a road bike? Please make a video thanks
6:50 What if the bearing cover does not fit snuggly over the bearings? On my Cervelo R3 the cover does not touch the frame, which leaves about 1-2 mm of the bearings exposed and play in my headset that I haven't been able to get rid of yet... Thanks for any help
Are you sure your bearings are positioned properly? They could be upside down or even the wrong kind if you had them replaced.
Luciano Narno Thanks for the help. I realized that I simply didn't have enough spacers above my stem (after recently cutting my steer tube down a bit). Silly mistake
samaway Yeah, that is common too. Glad you got it sorted out!
Can you provide a link to your series about clicking noises? I am having a problem with that
Great video. Thanks GCN!
Thank you! Clicking noise solved!
Do you think it's ok to put grease between carbon frame and bearings?
I'm curious, why are the front brakes connected to the right side of the handlebar and not the left like most bikes?
Thanks. Good clear instructions.
How in the world do you get your top cap bolt back into the star nut or bung if it drops down into the steer tube? I've been lying on my back with my frame upside down for the last 15 minutes trying to get that bolt to start but it keeps pushing the bung up and away from it. Also, I'm assuming the taper on the bung goes toward the cap bolt. (Hope you can get what I'm saying from my word picture here.)
Would you make a video of headset bearing measurements
Question: I removed the wheel, brakes and handlebars, but I couldnt get the fork to slide through below because the stem seems to be stuck in the 3 bontrager spacers above. How can I free the stem from these spacers?
Global Cycling Network don't forget the GCN new show is tomorrow…and has been on every tuesday.. you don't need to write it down!
I did tighten the top screw but it still loose beetwen headset and the wheel. What should I do. I use Fingard bike. I really need to fix them cuz the road is full of bumping area in my community house. help me.
Are both bolts properly tightened? Both the cap bolt and the inner bolt? And are you using the right amount of spacing?