How To: Adjust SRAM Yaw Front Derailleurs
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- Опубліковано 24 вер 2024
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Learn how to dial in the SRAM yaw front derailleur with this short video. Expert mechanic Daniel Slusser explains step by step how to get your front derailleur shifting great.
Ten years later, this video remains the only way I can set up my FD. Thanks.
Thank you so much for this concise video. As an older bike owner, 70 years, and my bike is a 2012 Ridley Noah with SRAM Red double-tap 10 sp, I find this video invaluable. Thank you again!
Finally, a vid that helped me understand this process correctly. All other videos I've seen fail to mention two important details: 1) when aligning the marks on the big ring, your front shifter should be in big ring position; and 2) after this adjustment, you then need to shift down "AS IF" you were going to the small ring. Bravo!
excellent how to guys, thanks very much. I was about to throw the towel in and book my bike into my LBS. instead I watched this a couple of times over a cup of coffee then had a go and got it set up in no time....
I find your videos very easy to understand. Genuinely helpful. Thank you.
Thanks!! I was kind of desperate and it helped me a lot.
As I loosened the cable tension I said, "this is not going to work, I'm about to make my problem worse". I was wrong, video directions worked
like a champ.
Thanks for watching William, happy to help!
Thank you, this video is much easier to understand and follow along with than the video Sram made to cover the same topic.
Thanks for the tips! I used this to dial it right in!
Thank you this helped me. Learned something new today!
Excellent amigo! Thanks…shifts like a dream now!
Quick and to the point! Great video approach with work in action.
We try to keep it informative and precise.
Life saver, thanks for the video!
Thanks - Nicely explained.
You're welcome!
Thanks a lot for making this easy to understand video! I've found your tutorial v.useful whenever I tune my bike. Just to share a bit of my thoughts. I find that there's no need to shift to the largest chain ring before you tighten down the cable to the anchor nut. If you realized later in the clip, You had to tighten the cable tension again. I've tested several times and its really the case. :)
The rear derailleur should be adjusted first; it can be tuned while in either chain ring in the front. The front derailleur requires adjustment knowing the alignment of the chain in both the largest and smallest cogs of the cassette. That way you can move the chain to the gear you need in the rear while adjusting the front derailleur accordingly.
I found that SRAM 22 derailleurs have to have a very tight cables to shift properly. In the case of the front derailleur, if the cable tension is not right, then the Yaw shifts chain to the bigger chainring and then it snaps back a half inch, which will cause the chain to rub when you're in high gear in the back and big chain ring. To fix this, get everything adjusted properly, then move to the smaller chainring and holding tension on the cable with pliers, pull it tight.
H Mill2 er
Yep, that's exactly what SRAM states on their Yaw adjustment video that if it snaps back there's not enough cable tension (6:50). However they suggest you put tension on the cable using the barrel adjustment. Either way is good. I was finally able to fix the problem once it clicked it my head.
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Great video!
I find that anchoring down the cable in the big ring leads to almost zero tension. I find I need to put the shifter in the small ring AND the derailleur over the big ring and add some barrel adjuster tension too. Is this normal?
I like your how-to vids... very easy to follow. One question: Does this video also apply to the new Force22 Yaw front derailleur?
n0twist1 Yes, this video does apply to the new Force 22 Yaw derailleur.
You mention the 1-2 mm clearance between the cage of the derailleur and large chain ring for vertical position - where should the derailleur be set for that? Should the cage be lined up with the chainring?
Paul Matthews Yes. The YAW derailleurs have hash marks on both the front and back of the derailleur. When in the large chainring up front, the hash marks should be matched up with the chainring and those adjustments are made via the braze-on anchor bolt.
Hi......all good until 3 mins into the video when you try shift between large and small chain ring. Even after tightening the cable I can't get the mech to shift back into the large chain ring. I am following your video with SRAM double tap gears would this make a big difference? Any suggestions please?
Hey there. It sounds like your cable tension is off and needs adjustment. If you follow the steps starting at 3:22, you should be all set. Thanks!
Thanks, problem is when I increase cable tension so that it shifts then the double tap shifter is so stiff its really difficult to move. If I ease it off then I'm back to square one and it won't shift to the large chain ring again.
katywu1 If that is the case, then moving the upper limit further outboard should alleviate your issues.
I have a very weird problem with this one. After a few miles I found that tension from the cable pulls the dereilleur out of alignment and thightening braze-on bolt over recommended max torque which is 7 nm doesn't help. Any advice how to solve it?
One question: I'm having problems with shifting from the small chain ring to the large. On the initial adjustment from the small chain ring to the large where should the rear cog be set? I'm having an issue where I can only get it to shift to the large chain ring while the rear is in the 26 cog. In your video you remove the shift cable from the front derailleur and use the lower limit screw to shift into the large chain ring, but you don't show where the rear cog is set. I would assume that this makes a difference. Otherwise the video is very informative, thank you.
Stratognat Your upper limit might be off and is keeping the front derailleur from fully shifting into the large chainring.
one other note: I don't think it's a cable tension issue as I have adjusted multiple times with varying tensions. This is a really annoying problem because this is a brand new red groupo. I've read people stating that they don't even get chain rub while cross chaining. I find that hard to believe at the moment.
+Stratognat I realize this is an old post but just in case someone new is reading, it's very much true. I don't get any chain rub in the Bg/Bg and Sm/Sm gears. I just have to be diligent with my trimming through the cassette. I did find that that bringing the rear part of cage in towards the frame helped with this, maybe 1.5-2mm in from where the hash mark suggested, I kept the front hash true though. In alignment with the hash marks at their proper location I wasn't forced to trim through the cassette but had rub on the two smallest and two largest cogs, not heavy, but some. It all comes down to personal preference, or maybe a trick that I haven't been able to figure out, haha! Hopefully you got you alignment all figured out as well.
That's great, thanks
What order should the derailleurs be adjusted (ie; rear first, front second or vise versa)?
Bit off topic for adjustment: is there a repair service where I can sent my Red Front Derailleur to replace the cage?
Jr Namida You will have to take your derailleur to your local bike shop, where they may or may not send it it in for replacement parts.
Kind of a trim? I thought yaw had no trim? What's kind of trim?
Daniel misspoke here. Yaw technology does, indeed, eliminate the need for shift "trim". Thanks.
Has anyone tried the Yaw front derailleurs (Red or Force) with a mtb 2x crankset? It seems to me the only concern would be the difference in diameter of the small and big ring, since the upper and lower limit can be adjusted to account for possible differences in road and mtb chainring spacing. If the diameter difference isn't too different than what the derailleur was designed for, it seems it would work perfectly. But who knows without trying. I would REALLY like to combine this derailleur with a mtb 2x crankset. Thanks!
There's a lot of factors and reasons why I want to say it won't work perfect. Without trying it you'll never know, but I'd say it will likely be less than ideal. Do you plan to use MTB or road shifters?
Road shifters. It will be all Force 22 with a 38/24 GX-1000 crankset. I'm just worried about how the yaw feature will work with the smaller rings. My plan B is to just get a non-yaw mech. But I basically want to have a 95% 1x using the 38t and then have the 24t to get up some steep grades with 100 pounds of fruit as well as be able to occasionally spin up super steep grades unloaded. I've ridden a 1x for the past few months and I've grown to hate trimming a front derailleur constantly (I live in a very hilly area). My e-bike is going if I can get it all to work.
Hmm, yea you can probably get it to work, but it won't be perfect. We have seen some riders run a setup like that without a front derailleur, having the bike setup to shift perfect in the large ring and then the chain can be manually dropped into the small ring, this isn't perfect either but is a very interesting option. Good luck with your build, sorry we couldn't be of more help. If you have any other questions, we will do our best to find the answers!
I guess perfect wasn't the right word. Adequate is what I meant. I decided to spend as little as possible and get setup with a regular derailleur and use things I already have. I'll see how it works, then try a yaw derailleur. Thanks, you guys rock.
I went a different route and purchased a 14-28 road cassette (from your online store) and an 11-40 mtb cassette. My plan is to mix the 14,15,16 cogs of the road cassette with the 8 biggest cogs of the mtb cassette giving me 14,15,16,17,19,21,24,27,31,35,40. And with a 50/34 crankset, I'll have well spaced cruising, spinning and climbing gears. Once I get it all working with my 105 components (derailleur has a roadlink hanger extender), THEN I can get Sram components and use the yaw front derailleur ;) What a guy who likes to spin has to do to get good gears!