Sewing Pattern Fit Adjustments for Back and Shoulders
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- One of the most common fitting problems in sewing is a high round back. Apparently it is another phenomena we can blame on frequent computer and desk based work. It is certainly a key fitting issue for me and I thought it might be useful to share how I tackle it.
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This is a very clear explanation for this pattern adjustment. But, I wish she had also explained the sleeve/armhole facing adjustments that would also be necessary.
The armhole should in theory be the same length as it hasn't been cut/extended...?
@@buzzi2kThat is my understanding also.
Brilliant, simply brilliant. I am 69 and always struggled with this problem.....not any more. Thankyou
I started making my own clothes a couple of years ago and have been immensely frustrated with my garments riding up towards my back. I thought it was my ineptitude until I came across this video, what a game changer, I’m off to alter everything, thank you!!
Finally, I get it !🤗. Made this alteration to a recent wearable toile and, hallelujah, it fits perfectly 👏👗🍾. I’ve even read it in the Palmer/Pletsch book previously, but it wasn’t until I watched your lovely down to earth vlog, with spinning scissors et al, that I gained the confidence to have a go myself. Thank you Lucy. You’re a 🌟xx
Did you alter the facing too?
You explain this so well, and I can see what and how you are doing it. I've watched a lot of videos on this and yours is the best. I've got the book also, I sit and read it constantly. Your visual is great, so many thanks for all you do!! Keep up the good work
How did I not know this was so simple?? Thank you so much for posting.
That was very well explained and demonstrated, because as you rightly said it sounds scary, but you made it look so simple. Thank you.
I’ve heard you talk about these adjustments in other tutorials and they sounded scary, but having watched this now, I’ll definitely be doing these changes. Thank you.
I like how high you made your High Round Back Adjustment. This makes perfect sense as it not only fixes the back, but the neck and the shoulder as well. I’ve made mine much lower and then had to adjust the shoulder.
I bought that book, it’s great. Highly recommend it. Very detailed. I study a bit each night.
Oh my Lucy, thank you so much for this! I was watching your Feb21 makes vlog & heard you say the words ‘forward shoulder adjustment “ and what do you know, I need that! All my Tilly tunics, do exactly this. I’m so pleased that there is a solution. Bless you
This is so helpful and exactly what I was looking for. I have the book, but was overwhelmed, this video made it so much more understandable. Thank you
This has been so helpful and well explained ! I’m hoping this will help as I think I need both adjustments . Many thanks .
Thank you so much for this video. I am sure that so many sewists put up with slightly misfitting clothes thinking that this is the best they can be , I recently found the full bust adjustment. I do not feel that I have a full bust but in comparison with my upper chest, I do. Hopefully, this will sort all my upper body fitting problems! Thank you again and look forward to all your videos.
Now I get it! Thank you so much. Would really appreciate similar for sway back adjustment, especially in a shift style dress with no waist seam.
So glad it has helped you to understand, i always think seeing someone do it helps. I will definitely do some more demonstrations and will try to include a sway back adjustment as you suggest.
Brilliant tutorial. Thank you Lucy. Do we need to make any sleeve adjustments following these alterations?
Thanks for your tutorial Lucy. I’ve also taken a note of your book as a birthday idea. I think this tutorial applies to me and I’ve often wondered when you have mentioned it before. Very clearly explained😊😁
Can you hear the penny dropping? That’s why I’m always tugging at necklines! Thank you. Great explanation.
As always a great clear explanation and clear instructions. Thanks you for taking the time to make and share.
Life changing - I had no idea that I had a high round back! For all these years I thought my seems were off with shop bought clothes because I’m petite. You’re right, now the clothes in my wardrobe look wrong 🤣. Thank you so much for highlighting the problem and sharing the solution 🧵. I’m quite new to sewing and this will help me so much.
Thank you very much for this video, which as ever, is very clear, and enjoyable. I need to start doing this adjustment on all of my garments, so it is very timely too. Thanks again.
Oh thank you Carole, that is great to hear, I'm planning to do more in the future too.
I couldn't understand why all my RTW dresses and tops were riding up at the front until I made a dress that did the same - so annoying, then I watched your video. I made the adjustments on my next dress project and I can't believe the difference. The dress shoulder seams stay in the correct place and it doesn't ride up. Thank you for your clear explanations Lucy, this has been really helpful.
thank you so much for your instruction on this issue. I have the same problem with my fitting issues. you have made it easy to understand and correct. Many Thanks!
Thank you so much, excellent tutorial!
Thank you for sharing...the sholder ajustment can be what i need.😊🧡
Thank you for your tutorial ma'am.
Thanks for sharing, this is very interesting to learn.
So glad you enjoyed it Georgina.
The placement of slash line will be different for everyone. It is beast placed at the location of the greatest convexity. And really nice demo of the forward shoulder.
Thank you.
This is so good. Thank you very much!
It's a pleasure, we'll be making more in the future too so stay tuned!
Thank you for this video, I'm going to give this a go x
Wow! You've made it very doable to alter a pattern! I'm definately getting the book, but I apologize that I'll be ordering from Amazon, because I'm in the U.S. and I have Amazon Prime with free shipping. But otherwise I would definately be ordering from you.😊
Thanks Patricia, I'm so glad you found it useful, our shipping rates to the US are very reasonable if you ever want any other items you may not be able to find on Amazon. I'm sure you'll love the book it is excellent.
Thank you for this video, its been such a help x
Thank you
Brilliant video, thank you.
My blouse has a yoke at the back which comes over the front shoulder so I'm not sure where to slash. I did a slash on another pattern and the back at the neck was then too big and i had to put in darts.
Small step, big attempt. Thanks!
It's a pleasure thanks for the feedback.
❤❤❤ love your videos
Excellent video. Donna H
Does the sleeve midpoint get moved forward a quarter of an inch also when back and front on your adjustments are made?
Thankyou for this tutorial.
If doing a rounded neck/forward shoulder adjustment, do you need to adjust the sleeve pattern piece to keep the notches aligned?
That instruction was very clear - I have been adding the shoulder dart after watching another of your videos. Do you still put the shoulder dart or has this fixed that issue as well? Would really appreciate a response.
Would you do a teach for a narrow shoulder adjustment. I don`t have a high round back that you have done and I need more teaching from you that you do so well.
How do you do this when pattern has drop shoulders or kimono sleeves? Please Thanks
This is a brilliant tutorial. I am making a stretch top for my friend and the back neckline is 2 inches too low. Can I adjust that much?
Hi Lucy. I love your tutorials! Stupid question coming: I normally do a high round back adjustment- do I need to do this on a dress with a V back (Sew Over It Betty dress)? Thank you
Great video. I have a question. When you slash and spread the pattern piece on the back bodice by 1/2 inch, don't you have to add to the front bodice length as well so the front and back side seams will match up?
Hi is this adjustment wot I need as my shoulders hunch forward so when wearing cardigans the bottom of it at the back keeps riding up? Xx
Does this affect the sleeves? Especially the hinge you did on the back bodice
I have a backing gap in my garnment, excessive fabric on the center back of the zipper. How can I fix that? Thank you for yout class!!
Hi. After making these adjustments, do you have to do some adjustment to the sleeve pattern as well?
I have a round back only on the right side of my body (scoliosis, unfortunately). Can I use this brilliant method splitting the back bodice in half and making adjustments only on the right side? And how can I then sew together two pieces slightly different? Thanks
So one question: the center of the original neck hole gets raised by that amount right? I felt now the middle/center neck hole is higher, once you double over the back piece the full neck hole would no longer be smooth, it’d now have a high peak??
Great video. Do you know if the book mentioned is the same Fit for Real People please? I have this book and want to know what the difference is, is it worth getting that too?
Hi Lucy , Thank you for this very informative tutorial on high round back adjustment. Does this method work for a Dowagers hump which I seem to now have as I have become older. I have the same fitting issues as you described in the video but wondered if the adjustment needs to be different. I'm not sure how to measure how much I need to increase the back. I look forward to your reply. Many thanks.
If you have someone to help you, try making a ductape bodice to get your exact shape
Hi Lucy, do you move the shoulder point on your sleeve also, or not worry?
Can a rounded back be lower than high? And could i make the adjustment lower on the back?
I have this issue on one shoulder after surgery it’s so irritating buying that book for definite
Can the High Round Back adjustment be done on a back bodice that is cut on the fold? I ask because the ½" alters the centre back line just slightly. Thank you for your video, it is excellent (brilliant) and I'm applying it to my current pattern which has a back seam.
No ..add centre back seam as it alters the line
Does your neckband need to change when you widen the neckline with the round back adjustment?
Do you do any vlogs for petites?
Hi there! I am wondering if you have found many changes in the new book, The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting? I have Fit For Real People and use it all the time. Do I need the new edition? Thanks for the tutorial, keep them coming.
I remember someone asked me this a while ago. There is a wrinkle dictionary, which tells you how to identify fitting issues and doesn't feature in the old book plus other updates on sewing techniques and thinking with some of the pattern adjustments. You could definitely manage with the old one because it is a great book, but you may well learn a few new things from the new version so i guess it depends how keen you are on fit. Thank you for the lovely feedback and I will keep them coming.
Sew Essential thank you for the quick response!
I am having an issue with the front right side. It does not lie flat but it looks like I put in too much fabric. I have measure and both side of my top are the same. What could I be doing wrong .
A couple of queries: 1) does the centre back neck line come slightly in - off the grain line? I often have the problem of the back neck gaping. 2) Do you then also move the shoulder points for an armhole facing or sleeve?
when you do a round back alteration, you need to make a centre back seam,as you understand the top of the blouse will no longer be straight. I also do move the sleeve shoulder point by cutting a Y shape and rotate the point forward. Google it and you shall find a method
Are these adjustments worth doing for such a small amount? My neck always seems to be cutting but will so small an adjustment make a big difference?
Hi Jana, you'd be surprised what a difference even this small adjustment can make. I always think the same - it is remarkable what a difference the adjustment makes to how my garment looks and feels. In my experience definitely worth a try.
Doesn't that adjustment cause the centre seam to not be straight?
I would like to see what it is I’m fixing. Put the top on a model to show what the problem looks like, make the adjustment, then show on the model what the fix looks like.
You didn’t mention how that will affect your sleeve or how to adjust it. Please can you add that in.
Interesting. I'm thinking she added to the back and subtracted from the front on the sleeve side evenly. So no sleeve adjustment? Or would the sleeve be skewed?
I have the exact opposite. My front keeps slipping forwards, I keep showing off my boobs (not that I have much in that department 😂
Oh no! I'd have to refer to the book to find out what causes that. I don't have much in that department either, which does sometimes make life easier I guess!
Sew Essential : I’ve got the book! I bought it from you, I don’t even know where to start looking in it. Can you point me in the right direction please? 😊
I would be interested in the solution to this one too!