How to French Seam an Armhole
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2024
- This week I'm finally sharing a sewing technique tutorial so many of you have been asking for - how to French seam an armhole. A French seam encases the raw edges of the fabric inside the seam and is often seen on tailored shirts or high end garments where an exceptionally neat finish is required. You can find a video on this technique here on our channel, however, lots of you wanted to see how to apply it to an armhole so here it is and it is easier than you might think too. In fact I would go as far as to say that it actually makes easing the sleeve in easier because you do it in stages rather than all in one go.
As always any tools or gadgets I use can be found on our website and I've included the links below.
► Sew Essential www.sewessential.co.uk/
► Purple thang www.sewessential.co.uk/purple...
► Hemline tailors ham www.sewessential.co.uk/tailor...
► Prym tailors ham www.sewessential.co.uk/prym-t...
► Hemline sleeve roll www.sewessential.co.uk/tailor...
► Prym sleeve roll www.sewessential.co.uk/prym-t...
Carefree Melody by Twin Musicom is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/... www.twinmusicom.org/song/302/c... www.twinmusicom.org - Навчання та стиль
Im starting to sew An unstructured garment after 35 years of NOT sewing garments. I used to make tailored clothing including all of my late husbands suits and have been an avid quilter for 22 years. I just made a mock up of my first garment and could not remember how I made nice seams back in the day. SoI checked UA-cam and found your channel, immediately subscribed. Thank you so much for a super tutorial because this is what I want to do, just didn’t know how to do the sleeves. The perfect video.
Thank-you so much Lucy, I don’t have an overlocker so I’ve always struggled with neat finishes on armholes ,
this is a game changer for me !!!
Such a good idea. Ive always gathered two to three rows of gathering. Three is best for east and even gathers. Using stitches slightly smaller than long gathering stitches also helps the fabric gather into finer waves/pleats. I almost never have to redo sections. But I’m going to try your method now and it would be a time saver.
I was taught to ease by pinning the middles together between the pinned seams, then the middles between those pins, then again between those pins....... it evens out the distribution of the fullness.
Thanks Lucy. Your “How to ........” tutorials get better and better. I’ve been a huge fan of French seams for a long time, but always chickened out of armholes 😂, well not anymore ! You’ve explained the technique so clearly and simply that I’m feeling confident of success next time ! Thank you 🤗
What lovely feedback Shelly, thank you so so much, I love hearing people say that the tutorials have helped them to conquer a new technique.
Do you know (and this might be my years of dressmaking training in high school, by old school teaching back in the early 1980's), but i tack or baste everything that is going to be a pain in the bum. Literally, I tack almost everything with a curve or long seam that can "migrate". It seems tedious BUT it removes SO much stress, and I have won numerous awards over time for my work, and basting is my biggest secret! I had only just turned 12, when i started Clothing and Textiles in high School - yes it was a girls school but it was a Technical School, where students were still taught the usual maths/science/english/languages etc etc, however we were absolutely drilled by masters in cooking and sewing. Esme in Great British Sewing Bee, is tame compared to these women who taught us. But that was a unique high school and almost the end of an era...now most adults can barely repair a hem or button!
I enjoyed watching and understand that slow and steady along with accurate placement and pressing is very important.
You did a perfect tutorial of explaining!
🥰
Ah thanks so much it's so good to hear this, tutorials are quite difficult to film sometimes so it's nice to know they come across well.
I was making a lightweight see-through wrap to go over a tank top. Did all the inside seams as French seams. Did the outside edges as a rolled seam. When it came to putting on the sleeves I was worried of doing an armhole French seam as it would mean one spot the fabric sewn would be 6 layers thick and may be too bulky. So I chickened out. Instead I made a seam binding from the fabric used, sewed the armhole the traditional way then bound the seam with my hand made seam binding. Looks okay but now seeing your video I might try to do the armhole seam as a french seam next time. Very good video with nice explanations.
Thank you so much for this video,Lucy. Very informative.
Love the look of French seams, feel it is worth the extra effort for the nice finish.
I totally agree!
I love your 'bubble' pinning methond! Will definitely be using that the next time I set in a sleeve. Love your tutorials, they are so clear and easy to understand. Thanks for all your hard work!
Thank you so much that really means a lot and inspires me to keep going! We have a new one out today I think you will really like!
We call it English seam over here in France 😘. I like to use it almost everywhere as well as flat seam.
Really, do you?! That's amazing! Yes they're so neat aren't they?
Very timely! I’m making a viscose blouse with French seams and will be setting the sleeves either tomorrow or Sunday. I wasn’t looking forward to wrestling with the sleeves, but this video has given me a lot of help and reassurance. Thank you.
Great news, I hope it went well.
@@SewEssential just finished! Later than expected, but your advice was a great help!
Thanks Lucy, great tutorial and so helpful for those of us sewists who don't have an overlocker.
Thank you so much for this excellent tut. I've never set a sleeve before or sewn a french seam. I'm pretty rubbish at sewing. But I followed your tut and it came out really well. I'm so happy.
So glad to see this tutorial -- thank you. I just couldn't make the jump (in my head) from French Seam on a straight seam to a set in sleeve. Thank you!!
It's a pleasure I'm so glad you enjoyed it and it makes sense now.
Thank you Lucy. I can see me sewing French seams everywhere now :)
It's a pleasure Pepprina, sounds like a plan, they are such a lovely option for lightweight fabrics where you want that special finish.
Exellant!!!! What a great idea to do armhole French seams! I love French Seams! Thank you for your expertise and tips!!!
Brilliant! I could not get my head around that one when you talked of it ...and it is so simple! Thank you so much!!
I'm so pleased to hear it Cyndy that is music to my ears I'm so glad it was helpful to you. Sometimes you just need to see it/do it with sewing don't you?
I saw an one minute youtube video where the sleeve was put in with a serger. You change the differential to 1.5 which controls the serger foot and it does the job. The sleeve is inside and the bodice is on the outside as you sew. It takes minutes.
You definitely helped me! I've done French seams, but always skipped the armholes! I was afraid of the curve and the easing. You totally demystified that for me! Thank you!
I'm so pleased to hear it Tammy that's great news, it gives me such a buzz to know I've helped people to work this technique out.
Thank you so much! I just couldnt get my head around this internal rotation and this was simple and easy to follow and it produced a great result
That was a wonderful tutorial. I love all the sewing tips.
Thanks, Lucy, for a really useful tutorial. I like the inside of garments to look neat so this was perfect! (And the purple thank is ridiculously useful!!)
I'm so glad you liked it Vera and yes agreed it's amazing how such a little piece of plastic can be so so useful.
Loved watching this video, you made it seem so easy. I have made french seams before, but never found an armhole. Thank you very much for demystifying this for me. Your voice is so calm, could tune in for hours, lol. Thank you X X ps thing I'm going to get me that 'purple thang' looks very handy! X x
Hi Ann, I'm so glad you enjoyed it and my voice came across as calm - I'm not sure my Husband and kids would agree haha! The purple thang is mega handy you're right.
Thank you Lucy, for a well illustrated video😀
Excellent tutorial. I’m learning so much from you.
Thank you so much. Your demonstration skills are excellent
Another brilliant lesson, thank you
Thanks for the tutorial. Really informative and you’ve made french seams a lot less daunting. I actually bought the purple thang when you mentioned it in one of your previous videos. I use it whether I’m using the sewing machine or overlocker to help push my fabric through or to help pin it down while I sew. I would recommend it to everyone and really cheap too . X
I'm so glad you enjoyed it Shirley and I know exactly what you mean about the purple thang it is so useful.
I think you just did magic, Lucy!
Your tutorial was so precise and clear to see, best I’ve seen on any utubes
Thanks that's lovely.
Thank you Lucy. For years I've place gathering stitches and tacking in sleeves (how I was taught) but going to try your bubble methos as it takes me ages to distribute the ease evenly
I've just ordered a purple thang from you, what a handy little tool, thank you for the fab tips 💜
😂 0:00 ❤😊 0:00 😂g NC&^'did Daz j😂😂😂❤❤🎉😂
You are absolutely amazing. Thank you for such a great tutorial.
That was a great explanation on sewing a French seam.
thank you for a comprehensive tutorial.
Hi Lucy I was shown a technique for pinning a sleeve. Roll the bodice over your fingers with the sleeve on the top. This distributes the fullness of the sleeve easily. Also taking the seam allowances down to 1cm makes a huge difference. Hope that you find this technique helpful. Love your videos.
Yes, it makes a world of difference!!
What a great idea thanks for sharing.
I am going to try this technique, both the French seam and rolling the bodice over my fingers with sleeve on top. Thank you all.
I'm new at sewing (at my age!). I can't visualize the technique of rolling the bodice over the fingers... Is there a video link out there? I don't really know what to search for either, although I did try. Much thanks! 🙏
Absolutely agree about the seam allowance, I’m forever changing my seam allowances when I sew items with curved seams. And rolling the seam over your fingers as you pin works so well - adding a tiny bit of ease as the top layer has to go just a tad further - especially if there is only a little ease to add in. If there is more ease to add I tend to pin at the halfway points initially and then pin at the quarter points, then the eighths so that ease it is distributed evenly - same method as I use for elastic.
Such a great tutorial Lucy , thanks 😊
So pleased you liked it, thanks for the feedback
Thanks for the wonderfull tutorial. I will use it for the next men´s shirt. I have to do an extra stitching on the outside of the shirt. I hope it will work. Greetings from Belgium. Love you tutorials.
Great video Lucy just watched the French seam on Sewing Bee so timing will be spot on.
Thank you. Your videos are very helpful.
Excellent tutorial, thank you 🙏. Well timed for me too as only yesterday I made a blouse with french seamed shoulders and bodice sides. 🌺🍀
Ooooh sounds lovely, so glad it was useful to you.
Fantastic tutorial - thank you ♥️
That was an excellent tutorial -- thank you so much!
Wow, I can't wait to try it on my next blouse project! Just a suggestion; use solid colored fabric for the demonstrations. The printed designs made it difficult to make out the technique.
Great tutorial, really helpful. Thank you
Thank you so much for your kind comments they really mean a lot and it is great to hear it was helpful to you.
thank you Lucy that was a great tutorial I didn't know how to do that around a sleeve take care and I love watching your videos.
It's a pleasure Jeanne and thanks so much for your kind comments I really appreciate it.
Wow, Can't wait to try this!
Great tutorial
Well done! I can't wait to try this. Thanks
Ah thank you Cynthia, it's great to hear such lovely feedback and enthusiasm from you all, I love it!
I loved that you called it bubble pinning!!! I never had a name for easing in sleeves and bubble pinning is so spot on!!!🥰
Thank you so much, has helped cleared that technique up for me as often want to include French seams in my garments but if its not included in the pattern, I couldn't work out how to keep to the seam allowance! 👍
It's a pleasure it's great to hear it has cleared things up for you, happy sewing.
Adding this to my list of rsewing eference videos, thanks!
It's a pleasure I'm so glad it was helpful to you.
very useful - thank you Lucy
You’re welcome 😊
I have this thing where I read things wrong and I for real thought this title said "How to Seem Like a French A**hole". LOLOL
You helped me make my camper a few years ago. Adventures in Ripstop
I thought she said it a few times too 😂
That was great,you made it so simple.I will make sure I press.
Thank you Maureen, I'm so glad you liked it.
Tx for doing this tutorial...v helpful!
It's a pleasure Gerry, lots of people seem to have found it very useful, which makes me very happy!
So helpful!!! I’ve been afraid of French Seam finishes..... no more fear!! 😷👍
Yay! Go for it, you can do it!
Fabulous thanks 😍
thank you ,very useful
You're very welcome.
Great tutorial Lucy will have to purchase those tools
I'm so glad you found it useful Elizabeth and yes the right tools always really helps with the job at hand, it's amazing what a difference they make.
Thanks very much, very helpful. Cheers Mary
Thanks Mary I love helping everyone out.
I much prefer this finish!
It's lovely isn't it, thanks so much for watching.
Thank you so much! Very clear tutorial. Soon I'll make my first top with French seams. I think I am going to like it!
Great video thank so much for sharing I found it to be very informative and very helpful awesome I need a machine like that!!!!!
Great thank you
Thank you too for watching.
Thank you
You're welcome
Thank you for this instructional video! I would have never been able to figure this out with just written instructions because I am one that needs to see what you’re doing to get the full understanding. You do a wonderful job with your explanations and also with your video. Often I can’t see the area being discussed on various instructional videos, but you go to great lengths to make sure to not only include the great visuals but also to explain as you work.
A question I have: can French seams be sewn on the inner and outer leg seams easily using the instructions you gave us for the sleeve but applying it to the pants leg? And once finished, does it matter which direction you press the finished seam prior to hemming the pants? Again, thank you for the great ideas and instructions you make available. I greatly appreciate everything!
Such a helpful tutorial before I start my first garment in cotton lawn. Thankyou as always Lucy. My go to sewing guide.
Nice video!!
I do love a "French Seam"!! Very good!
Thank you for sharing, and have a great weekend!! :+)
Me too, it's a pleasure and I hope you had a great weekend too.
Thank you!
You’re a joy to watch! 😎
Mercir
Did your Seam guide foot come with your sewing machine? I’m just about to sew a dressing gown with French seams , it will be the first time for this procedure. My friend said there was a you tube video for French seams for sleeves . Thank you for this very useful.
Thanks for this video. Now I will do a sleeve FS with confidence. I do wish you used a light color with different color thread so it would have been easier to see. 🙂👍🏻
Omg. I am henceflrtj never going to sew a sleeve without a french seam.
Could you please show the bodice -rolling -over - finger technique suggested in the commentary.
When doing your forward shoulder adjustment, would it make sense to bring the cap of the sleeve forward also?
Hi! Very interesting tutorial. Just one question: when you have done the second row of stitches and it has encased the raw edges, do you press the seam towards rhe bodice or towards the sleeve? Thanks!
I don't think there's a wrong way to press the seam allowance, however, if you have a little bit of extra fullness in the sleeve it would make more sense to press it to the sleeve side. The extra bulk would help it to puff out just a bit easier.
Wow this is so amazing, since I don't have serger, but one question, how do I join the arm pit area with, since I use french seam for all seam
Hi Lucy thanks for video great help. Do you have to add more seam allowance if you are doing two lots of machining.
No problem, no you don't - the two seam allowances add up to the original seam allowance - 1/4" + 3/8" = 5/8" I hope that makes sense.
Many thanks, makes sense. Really enjoying your help. @@SewEssential
Hi Lucy. Great tutorial as always. Thx!
Question though.... after wrong sides have been stitched together why press open the seam allowance?, Since you're just going to turn right sides together and stitch to encase that seam allowance anyway? Maybe you said and I missed it.
It just gives a really crisp, accurate finish, but you could probably get away with skipping this stage
I wondered that, too, but the result was so neat and professional I figured it would be worth the extra step and no doubt contributed to the final result.
Question!! I’m making an heirloom First Communion dress. The sleeves are Alencon lace with netting underneath and the bodice is satin with alencon lace over it. Usually, the curves in the armhole are clipped after seeing to allow movement. Does this method allow as much movement? I need to know so I don’t mess up setting the sleeves into the bodice (little girls size 7 pattern)
Thankyou Lucy, Could you use less busy fabric next time to demo. What about using your finger behind the foot to ease fabric in? Well explained video.
I tend to work with fabric that doesn't have much stretch, how comfortable would this be on a stiffer fabric? (Usually I use quite a narrow seam allowance at the armscye.
Little tip: an easier method than "bubble pinning" is to use a single row of basting stitches near your seam line, and you can pull it (as if to gather) just enough to get the fabric to roll over to fit the curve.
Great video. You make it look so easy. Need to master this sleeve easing business. Would never have thought to French seam sleeves but I’ll now give it a go. (Must apologise that I hit the “dislike video” in error. Small phone, careless thumbs!)
Hi there! Is it possible to use a french seam if you have a puffy sleeve? Will the gathering on the sleeve make it to bulky? X
Does it create a lot of bulk if you do French seams on both the sleeve and bodice seams as well? If so what do you do?
Do you sell those specialised feet with seam allowance markings? That looks really useful. I couldn’t actually see what type of machine you have but I have a Janome 8900.
We do sell them and we do stock Janome feet and accessories too, but I don't think there is one exactly the same for that brand I'm afraid. Mine is a Husqvarna.
I certainly prefer that technique rather then do the usual type of seam. Its much neater and seeing that I want to make a few blouses, I have picked rayon fabric to make them so french seam would be the best way to do this. I noticed you did not clip into the 1/4 inch seam so gather that is not necessary when sewing the french seam. Its great to see these hints and tricks of the trade to get best results.
So pleased it was useful to you Elizabeth, yes there is no need to clip the seams when sewing a French seam on an armhole in my opinion.
The arm hole went well on my kimono But how do I incorporate the bias seam as french seam also?
Thank you for this! So, the order of construction, if the side seams and shoulder seams had been french seamed already, would be the same? I'm trying to envision what those intersecting seams would look like -- two french seams would be bulky?
Great question! I need to know too!
Lynn B and L. Baughman, I hope you don't mind my answering. The order of construction is the same. To reduce bulk, I sew a 2nd line of reinforcing stitches on both sides of the shoulder and underarm seams (around 1/2" each side of the seams) and then trim the seams where I've reinforced to 1/8". Applique/duckbill scissors work well for trimming. To add additional stability, reinforce the second line of stitching at the shoulder and underarm. I've never encountered an issue with the armhole seam coming apart. When sewing with lightweight fabric I find the amount of bulk to be minimal and the French seams provide a beautiful finish. Hope you find this helpful. Wasn't his an excellent tutorial?
@@laurajones4088 thank you!!
@@laurajones4088 Thanks!
Thanks so much for your tips and suggestions Laura, some great ones there and thanks for your lovely feedback too. It is great to see our little community helping each other out I love it.
Hi. Is sewing from sleeve side means, sleeve on top and bodice at the bottom?
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Thanks for the great video. One question -why do you iron open the first roughed edge seam Bcs you only end up ironing them together anyway before you start sewing the 3/8 “ final seam.
I was wondering the same thing.
Do you press the completed seam towards the bodice or the sleeve?
I usually press towards the sleeve so you don't flatten the sleeve head.
Do you need to add extra seam allowance for some patterns?
Could you do this method on a princess seam?
What pattern is your red jacket - love it
It's actually a cardigan I bought from a shop called 'and other stories' here in the UK
Can this method be used with a bodice that is lined?
Hi I always sew in the sleeve before joining side seems and sleeve seem , it’s so much easier for me ! Is there a good reason not to do it this way ??