Replacing the pinion seals on a Jeep Wrangler...
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- Overall this is a pretty easy and straight forward repair. MAke sure you use genuine spicer seals to make sure your repair lasts.
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Making video and very informative. This is literally the only video I’ve found that gives that good of a break down. Short simple and to the point. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Totally, loved that explanation about the yoke bearing test, big difference to see an actual mechanic’s how to than the diyers
Best explanation of preload for this job I've seen.
Been searching hi and low for a really good pinion seal replacement video. Your video is very thorough and detailed. You explain everything well especially for a newbie diy-er. Nice cutlass too btw!
Yes, this video is well received. Most "mechanics" on youtube say shit like, "I think," "maybe." "hopefully," "I guess," or flat out say, "I don't know," or "I'm not sure."
I hate that!!
I have been wrenching for more 50 years so I have forgotten more than many young whippers have learned.
You make sense, keep up the good work.
Finally, when reinstalling the yoke lube it (soak) and the threads and flat side of the nut with gear oil to make the job easier and reduce the chance of knocking the pinion into the diff cover.
Be safe.
Great video with lots of information. Thanks for making them.
Legend! Love the detail. Thanks mate from Australia.
Wow! Your explanations and camera angles are amazing! Definitely subscribing 💪
Great video. You show a Spicer 50660 for the Front Dana 30. Did you use the same for the Rear Dana 35? I was told the Spicer 44895 seal was a better fit fir the Dana 35. Any thoughts on this?? Please Help. Thanks.
Thank you - great vid. Took longer to find a 29mm than actually do the task.
This was very detailed and entertaining.
More great content, I really like your style and the explanations.
You video is great, give me confidence to do the seals on my Jeep thanks !
Excellent video.. best I have seen so far .
For the universal joint strap bolts you can get to all for with the power tool if you just rotate the tires until you have the access needed !
Great video, very informative. Planning on taking this project on, hop pulling seal out won't be that difficult.
Great video! Well received indeed! My concern has always been preload. Whether it's crush sleeve or shim I always seem to second-guess myself. You mentioned early in the video about marking the pinion and marking the nut. You also said experience pays! Again, well received! I always mark everything. To a fault sometimes. My question is; How much beyond the original marks would we expect to tighten the nut. You mentioned a 1/4 turn. Seems like a good benchmark.
Again, great video. You had my undivided attention. Thank you!
Great video, very informative and nicely recorded.
Thank you! Most helpful!
great video and awesome with the much needed information
Great explanation of preload!
Always Great videos and instruction ,,,thanks So Much👍
Awesome video, thank you!
I really appreciate you and this video, I just wish I had seen it before I did mine. lets just say I learned the hard way LOL. Thank You Sir, great job. 👍👍👍👍👍
Wow, I was surprised how easy that pinion came off!
Yo, as a fellow wrencher this is great job on explanations! Possible links to part numbers and vehicle specs? Going to check out your other vids!
Very nicely detailed thank you ,, I have 2000 wj it is the same process ? Thank u
Very informative! How would I know if I have a crush sleeve vs shims? I think you mentioned in the video that this TJ has a crush sleeve on both axles but the front definitely looks different than the rear with big washer under the seal
Very helpful.
What’s the part number on those I’m tearing my hair out looking for these damn things😝
Great video!!!
My only question is why would you only top off the gear lube and not replace it. I would expect water intrusion at that seal.
Great Job man! I was going to do my Jeep WJ but, I am in HVAC and have a lot of work right now, so I have someone else doing it for me. I really wanted to do it myself, but gotta make hay, and the shop is only charging an hour labor to do it, which I thought was fair. Still would have enjoyed doing it myself. BTW - I would like to have seen links to your other videos on the repairs you did to this jeep in the description. It would help me and your other subs, which means more views. Salute!
nice and useful video - preload adjustment by hand really needs experience ! In my case I counted down the threads before I removed the nut and also marked the yoke/nut position. Reinstalled it the same way, now I can hear some whining in the diff only when coasting and I also can feel a play at the pinion - guess I'd need to tighten the nut a tad more to zero play and check the preload - yoke should be easily turned with 10-13 inch pounds - your thoughts ? thanks !
Perfect video thank you. This should be pretty much same thing for a 2009 jeep Laredo I assume no?
What pinion seal do you recommend for an XJ , tried finding one like the one on your video but I couldn’t .
Good information. The only thing that I would do differently is to lubricate the seal or the area that the seal rides on the yoke before installing the yoke.
I thought the same ,just a little lube
P/N for seal you used?
For someone replacing this seal that's never replaced one before what's your advice on tightening the nut? I don't think mine has any play In it just the seal is worn. I'm running a dana 30 up front
I just had my rear pinion seal replaced. Now I get random metal on metal chirping and grinding and shuddering on my front end. Do you think its related? Did the bearing get crushed? There's no whirring sound from the differential.
2008 jeep grand cherokee 3.7 with 166,000 miles
Thanks 😊
thank you
Are the seals the same for both the front and the rear? Any part numbers available? Great video! Thanks!
My D44 grenaded and I found a D35 but the yoke doesn’t fit my drive shaft. Will it work to swap just the yoke on my old 44 and simply swap it with my 35?
how much tq does your impact have?
I have a 2015 jeep renegade. Mechanic is telling me the manufacturer said in order to service the pinion seal leak i have to do a whole case replacement. Cost like 4k. Does this sound right?
What size socket did you need to take that pinion off? That’s the only part of the video I needed
Thanks for the video, When you turn the nut 1/8 to 1/4 more, wouldn’t you be technically moving the pinion away from the ring gear, changing the gear pattern and lash?
Do you knows what's the part number for the rear shat I have a liberty jeep 2007..please
Can you post where we can buy the front and rear spicer pinion seals for the Jeep TJ?? Autozone and O'Reillys doesn't sell them in store they are special order
Could you please send us a link to where can purchase the seal
Excellent Excellent video. Please do one for AXLE leak seal replacement jeep jk
What size is that nut I have to do my 06 liberty it's leaking bad
I am changing the pinion seal on my 226mm getrag diff, and between the pinion seal and the bearing, there was a plastic spacer with a vent molded into it, and it was completely destroyed. Plastic chunks everywhere. However.... there is no listed part at Chrysler to replace it. The local dealer didn't even know what it was. Any idea how to get this part? Or what its called?
Never install seals dry, light coat of grease works great.
On my Dana 44 the spec for the pinion nut is 200 to 225 ft lbs, am I missing something?
Its the same on the toyota camry ?
Whats the torque for putting the driveshaft back on
Great job again,you might wanna show using a spring scale for rolling resistance on preload settings,but yes very informative and will help the average Joe slot!!!!
I would have if I had the diff torn apart. With it together, that measurement is irrelevant unfortunately.
Got to be very careful tightening yolk, must keep in mind backlash setting if you crush too far...
People should know to HOLD the yoke with their hand when removing the pinion nut with a impact wrench..you don't wont the ring and pinion gears chattering against each other..
I need to do this on the front driveshaft of my quadradrive WJ 2002… the diff is definitely leaking from the seal… but I can’t put enough torque on it to pop the nut off. But also it’s making a speed dependent whine from the diff and I don’t know what to do about that.. could that be the diff bearings?
I have just got that nut off a WK rear. I used a 3/4" drive breaker bar with 32mm socket, and _levered the end of that_ with a jack handle against a rear suspension control bar. I prevented the flange from turning with a home-made equivalent of the C-3281 flange wrench (a large c-spanner with a long handle welded to it). The breaker bar was _flexing_ with the force. The workshop manual rsays the original torque for that nut is 210 ft-lb. I don't think the WJ will be as bad as that.
As long as you can match the preload would you recommend removing axles or leaving them in? I have a leaking front pinion on my 5.9 2500
Leave them in and match the preload.
@@MorFabIndustries Thanks for the reply! I'll give it a shot.
I always use a chisel and smack the pinion and nut in the same wack, count the exposed threads and put it back going little by little counting threads amd lining up my mark and send it. Hope this helps someone.
Could I get a professional opinion from you? I look my Jeep in to get the rear yoke replaced and they hade all the parts to do so but they've hade it for two weeks now and all I'm getting from them is the yoke is stuck. is there any reason they shouldn't have already completed it? thanks.
There's no reason for a shop to have a job like that for 2 weeks. The only way I could see that is if something got damaged in the removal/assembly of things.
Great through demonstration....so if we are changing the races, bearings, and seal, you can technically reuse crush sleeve just torque it ever so slightly more until you get spec resistant for a used crush sleeve (10-15lbs) correct? Thanks!
Not the 100% proper way to do it but yes it can be done in a pinch.
@@MorFabIndustries thanks for the quick response! I've done a lot of mechanic work but haven't tackled a diff yet. Everything I seem to find on the Internet "ya gotta use a new crush sleeve" guy I work with that has rebuilt many says he never uses a new one and it's all BS because people on line just regurgitate what they've been taught. His reasoning is because they are made of hard steel and it's time consuming to crush in a new sleeve...been doing this for 40+ years and never had a problem supposedly....just wanted someone else's insight. Again good work and thanks for the response.
I have a 2013 10a unlimited Rubicon. My front seal is leaking and I ordered one. After 1+ hrs of trying to install the new seal, it turns out I was sent the wrong seal. Front and rear are both Dana 44's buuuuut the outer dia of the front is 3.085" the rear is 3.185". WTF?
Is that a crack ?
@14:05 : I would smear some oil onto the seal running face rather than push it in dry. @16:05 : Half-hour to an hour for the whole job LoL! You are supposed to remove the brake calipers and drums to feel the preload properly. Earlier today it took me an hour just to chisel the old seal out of a 2007 WK Grand Cherokee rear diff! The WK job is harder than on a Wrangler or a XJ Cherokee - less acccessible.
Saw the same errors you saw, did this to my TJ 2 years ago when changing diffs to 4.88's, never install dry or set preload with tires and brake drums on.
Back lash looks pretty bad ?
Thanks from Kazakhstan!
I'll be calling you for welding the tranny xmember on my jeep when I get to CT
Does anyone know what size nut that is for the rear yoke?
1 1/4 or 1 1/8
Impressed...no claw hammers or wood chisels were used in the making of this video lol
😂😂😂
Zip tie the driveshaft to the exhaust or other place that will hold the driveshaft out of your way.
I can't believe I'm the 1st comment....1st time ever. Super informative Justin Thanks for the "devil in the details" look at this job.
Mine 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo was 12 inch pounds to rotate. Had to buy a special tool to measure this.
But my seal seems to be corroded into place. It looks weird. I got everything apart but this seal is original and I’m scared to pry but I guess I have too.
The new seal looks too big to go in there.. is it supposed to look that way?
👍
If you replace the seal then it’s leaking from the yoke could the yoke be bad?
There is a small rubber seal that goes under the yoke nut. If you didn’t see or didn’t replace it as well, the yoke can leak.
@@MorFabIndustries only saw a washer. Is that something you can buy?
@@MorFabIndustries I used the spicer
44895 seal
Watching you fight with that front seal removal made me almost lose my mind. Sooooo not the way to do it. Drive from the side in and OUT, not driving the seal back in to the bore. Other than that, great video, very informative and good advice on how you can get away without changing the crush collar.
Protect your eyes, brother. Any time you find yourself hammering on something (especially metal), you want to have some glasses on.
Thanks for the vid.
Thanks for savin me some dollars
lol i thought your air compressor was a drumroll
dont you wanna put some oil on that seal??? im gonna put a little lube on that seal lol.....
“Not an off road Jeep”
Like WTF is that???
Not good, the pinion and ring backlash is not more of .009" (.005" and .009")
274👍🏻
8 ugga duggas is puurfect
Theyre quoting me $800 to do this shit?
@@looselugnuts5874 oof! Walk away. $300 max to do both seals. It’s 40 bux in seals and an hour of labor.
@@MorFabIndustries Wow fast reply lol thank you! I have plenty of room to do this under my jeep, Is it possible to do this with the jeep on the ground? I dont think you should be able to turn anything lol, but im still learning so ill ask if its possible to not have to bring out the suicide jack and just do it with the jeep sitting?
Not hard when you have a whole ass lift and garage
What is the pinion seal Spicer part #?