How to Re-gear a Dana 30
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- Опубліковано 26 січ 2021
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Last updated: May 11, 2023 - Навчання та стиль
One of the best and most professional gear set-up videos I have seen. Great job.
Thanks for the comment!
Yesss a real professional knoldge
😂
This has been one of the best videos about regear that i have seen
I'll be adding more re-gear videos in the future to provide different perspective.
@@TheBFHGarage it de would be awesome if you make like a complete tutorial breaking down all the steps by parts
@@edwingonzalez6060 I intend to do that for a future video!
@@TheBFHGarage thanks a lot, i am planning into rebuilding an ected max locker of a jk, will keep the contact to watch it.
I've watched a dozen videos trying to find the proper way to set up the pinion depth and preload and this is by for the most comprehensive instruction I've found, thank you.
Did you ever give it a go on your own?
I've been fighting this dana 30 all day. I'm so glad I came across this video! Hands down the best instructional video I've seen on this subject! Great job, and thank you!!
Very good teacher. The level of depth you go into is great. Really appreciate the videos. Thank you
Really great, professional , detailed and informative - 10/10!!!
By far one of the best videos I have seen , you've obviously been doing this for a while, I've probably set up around 500 rears over the past 20 years myself , Does that M-18 impact have the power to crush GM 12 bolt or mid year corvette 10 bolts,.? I still crush these with a 3/4 breaker bar with a 3 ft pipe extension . Recently have run into crush collars that won't crush period . [ after market ] I laugh at some of these other you tube rear set-up videos , No carrier preloads ,poor patterns etc.
Excellent content . I can tell this ain't this Man's first rodeo. Thank you for the PVC pipe trick to install seals. This man definitely explains the R& R of a ring & pinion set-up for those with Common sense to understand unlike some who make this job more complicated via marking & measuring every single tooth of the ring gear which is overkill in my opinion. Thanks for keeping it simple Brother. God Bless.
Excellent explanation on install process especially about how the crush sleeve works
I would not hesitate to have this guy work on my Wrangler JK. His attention to detail, workmanship and professionalism is top notch.
Thanks for the kind words👍
Excellent video sir. Definitely the most information gear setup video I’ve seen on UA-cam.
Thanks! Did my first gear change 3.07 to 4.10! Took my time; very happy with results. Thanks for your many great vids!
Very detailed and step by step tutorial. Thanks for the awesome video mate.
Watching you do this is like watching a master chief prepare fine food.
You’re set there and how clean it is ,
Absolutely impressive
Thank you for the kind words!
Honestly, this is the best gear setup vid on UA-cam. Thank you
I always ditch the crush sleeve and install a solid spacer and shim kit instead. It's really easy to crush the sleeve too much,then you have to get a new one. Idk how much you have to tighten the Dana 30 to start crushing the sleeve. Last one I rebuilt was a GM 7.6 out of a 97 S-10. Took about 400 ft/lbs to crush it. And then it crushed it too much so my pinion bearing preload was too much. Then I found out that you can use a solid spacer and shims instead of the crush sleeve. It really works great and you only need to tighten it to 125 ft/lbs. And there's no crush sleeve in there that may keep crushing over time and screw up the preload. Reyteck makes the solid spacer/shim kit.
Thank you for you detailed dialog for this process. Your explanation and presentation is the most helpful for this amateur DIYer that I have been able to find. Thank you.
Glad it helped out!
Super video. Can't wait to build my house so I can build my shop, so I can re-gear my JK. 2:00 in the morning, gotta go to bed so I can finish the excavation tomorrow. I hope I won't drop dead before I can finish my JK.. Cheers from Canada!
Incrivél, exelente video, clear explanations in pinion adjustments. I'm resreforming the differential of my Jeepster 1946 I found myself in the dark, with his explanations I found a lucid light in front of me. Congratulations on the content. Sorry some text errors, I'm Brazilian ...
This was the best instruction video i have ever watched , thanks for doing it .
Awesome job man! You make some outstanding videos, Thanks for your effort, huge help!
The best Video by far on ring and pinion set-up, thanks. I am installing a yukon locker and gears in a D-30 also, this is my first time in side a diff other than changing gear oil and swaping out axles. I feel more confident having watched this video for sure.
This is a proper set up video. This is the way to do it. Nice job!
By far the best videos on gear setup.
I don’t plan on doing my own regear but this is super informative and explains why regearing in California cost 3k
I really would love to do this myself as I find it fascinating and your video is the best I’ve seen for showing what I could expect. I need a friend like you to help out lol. Thanks much for a great video!
Thanks for the kind words and good luck with it!
Thank u for sharing …very nice explanation👍
Good stuff here! Thanks for the tutorial and the time!
Thanks for sharing all that. It was a lot but I think I got it. 👍 answered a lot of questions
Thank you, Peter Weller! This was very helpful! I know you’re not Peter, but you could be mistaken for him hahah
Very informative. Thank you.
Excellent job, nice explanation, thank you...👍👍👍😍😍😍
Great video, I learned a lot. Enough to know to leave my regearing and LSD install to someone with better skills and proper tools.
all it takes is common sense and proper tools. enough common sense u can make your own tools. oh if you tackle a 400 turbo bread sacks works best for clutch seal instalation.
Wow, when it comes to gears and axels you're a badass. This video helped me out with this so much. Thanks!
Thanks for the compliment!
Excellent video! Best I've seen bar none..
Very well done video, thanks for all those tips!
Thanks for the compliment, I'm glad it helped you out!
I have built a lot off diffs on both cars and trucks,,But I have learnt a good few tips from this video,,Great stuff.
Thanks for the kind words! Glad it helps👍
Great video! Thank you!
Awesome video! Helped me decide to pay someone else to do it for me... 😂
Unfortunately I definitely don't have any of those test races and nuts and extra tools needed to do this job in my driveway.
But I need to research who's reputable. Thankfully I live in Utah so there should be plenty of them...
Thank you for sharing your knowledge brother! This video helped me out alot!
Glad to hear it helped!
Very informative, great video!
Nice around halfway through this video I realize I’m going to take my jeep to the shop
This might be the best how to automotive video I have ever seen, I wish you worked on land cruisers!
Very informative & knowledgeable mate, good thorough vid, thanks!
Do you think a Dana 30 would survive 35's air locked, decent wheeling roughly once a month 🥲
I beat the crap out if mine on 35's locked. It will be fine. Get some chromoly shafts though.
Right ok, wicked...alot better to hear than an axle upgrade..cheers mate, Il look into the chromolys 👍
Que buen video mi conpa.....muchas gracias por conpartir....
!Me alegro de que haya ayudado!
Great video. Thank you
Awesome job and video!
Excelente muchisima grasias.
You explain things with great detail and camera work is at just the right angles! I watched this and your Dana 44 videos-Trying to figure out how to re-gear to 4:10. Can we re-use the axle shafts with the different gearing on the front and rear?
Excellent Video 5 Stars 👍
wow man such good tips ty
very good video thanks
Excellent video 👌👌
great vid, thank you for this
Glad you like it!
OUTSTANDING EXPLANATION!!
Good job! I would've sent it with the first pattern you got.
I couldn't get my pinion gear out, tried prying and tapping on it to shake it loose. Thanks for the wrench trick!
Great video!!!
Excellent!
Fantastic video! Appreciate you taking the time to show us how it's done. Question, maybe I missed your explanation: what's the size difference between your setup race and actual race? Want to have one myself for my regear but not sure what I should be looking for
So a setup race is the exact same as the new race with one exception. The new race has to be driven in with a driver. A setup race slides in and out with minimal resistance. I take a Dremel with a sanding drum and sand down the outside of the race until it just fits without having to be driven in. You should also be able to pull it out by hand. Don't make it too loose or it can throw things off. Be sure to use the same brand race as what you are going to install to keep errors to a minimum.
Wow that really clears up a lot. Probably the most informative video I have ever seen.
thankyou Sir
Brilliant video as always, thank you. I know diff temperature can be more than thread lock specs , which one do you use? I thinking of drilling and lock wiring my bolts.
Red loctite has never let me down 👍 I think drilling and wire is not necessary. On the old first gen three piece ARB it was needed, but not now.
Bro, this was deceivingly easy in some parts
Wow you think this guy has done this before or what. Absolute expert level.
You certainly took the mystery out of this whole procedure for me! You're an Excellent teacher with an excellent ability to explain In detail, this complicated procedure. You’re the best I've ever seen.
Because of manufacturing tolerances. Do you check the Depth between your test pinion race and the new race? Do you measure the height with the new and test pinion bearing, before installing it on the pinion?
Adjusting by .003, tells me the race tolerance must really be the same, within + - .0005? Are the bearing races manufacturing tolerance that close?
I plan on upgrading my 95 ZJ to Detroit Lockers, to deal with our Northern Wisconsin 9 feet of snow on a normal winter. Now I don't feel so intimidated thanks again.
Nope, none of that. Tolerances are usually very very close. I use the exact same brand and number race or bearing and use new not old to ensure closest match.
@@TheBFHGarage Ah yes staying with the same brand is the key, I have a tendency to over engineered things! I'm a retired Instrument Maker from a scientific research community (DOE) I always have a tendency to forget the KISS factor. Thanks again. great job
The weird spacer that northridge machined is actually part of the install kit from them. It's the main shim that gets other thin shims stacked into it.
ARB Air Lockers have everything you need to do the install correctly. You shouldn't have to fabricate something to work. There is no need to have the other shims stack "into" it. The machining on it was horrible so I highly doubt this is a go to part for Northridge. Completely unnecessary.
@@TheBFHGarage I appreciate the response. I'm currently installing a tru-trac and 4.10s in a JK Dana 30. A pair of stepped spacers are included in "PVTNORD30-JK" install kit. They might not be of any value, but they are sold in that kit
@@shorthood2518 it might be for that kit, but definitely not for an ARB and that's what this video is about👍 to be honest I would hate to see that as part of anybody's kit since the tolerance was so far off. The run out and that so-called spacer was over .005" from one side to the other which is completely unacceptable for me. That's the quickest way to get gear jobs back to your shop for warranty.
I wish I had this guy do my gear setup. I had to take the yj back today because front seal leaks and rear axle whine
That sucks!
Yeah after this video and a couple tools I could have done it myself
@@williamthompson969 that's the goal!
That’s my Jeep getting a regear. It’s was needed due to a sloppy install but a “reputable” shop
BBQ Ring 😂 just to get it to fit lose You learn something every day thanx:)
Great video! I’ve watched I think 3 times! One question, how do you torque the ring gear bolts? With the carrier in a vice or something to hold it steady or with the carrier assembly back in the vehicle?
You can do it couple of ways. You can put it in a vice before pressing on bearings or you can torque then the first time you install. I would torque before running any patterns to make sure it's set.
I did a ford 8.8 swap on a jeep and theres a 350 in the works but I never did a rearend rebuild,so I went through 5 crush sleeves and nuts.....they gave me the whole box of pinion nuts and sleeves they had at parts store as a joke,I have like 10 left.everything turned out okay my pinion depth isnt very good,everything else perfect,my gear pattern on the coast side is kinda high,drive side is perfect ,its bothers me.I decided to say fuck it for now I get back to it latter, I still have to weld my bracts on it and line up my drive line and get my engine in there right and order my shafts.good vid,youve made me confident
If you are going to redo it, be sure you do it before driving it. One you break in the gears they work harden and changing it after won't be good.
Jesus christ
Great video. Thanks, after watching several videos, some more than once, I'm wanting to give it a try rebuilding my AMC 20 myself. It's got quite a few miles on it, and still works fine, but seals leak, and the back lash is excessive from wear. Maybe about a quarter inch of slop twisting the yoke back and forth. Judging from that kind of slop, do you think I could re-use the gears, just replacing the bearings and seals, and it would be ok?
I'm not a fan of reusing gears. They are very difficult to set up. Now if you are just changing bearings and seals, you shouldn't have to change anything else and you should be ok.
I got it thanks to you! But pinion nut seal all done great. Preload but I forgot to put oil baffle behind pinion seal. What should I do?
All done I put a new seal and nut.
When you went to put that pinion back in the second time how did you get a .003 thousands measurement on your shim
Thank you for the very detailed video. You covered everything and pretty much answered all my questions so i feel confident enough to tackle it my self. The only tool I’m having a hard time finding is the rotational mass tool you used. Is that inch pounds or foot pounds? Im working on a 2005 TJ D30.
it is inch pounds but it has to be beam or dial style Beam is way cheaper. Type this in your search bar: in/lbs. beam style torque wrench
@@TheBFHGarage I saw those but I wasn’t sure if that was the same thing. I found it, thank you so much!
This video clarified a lot of issues I wondered about through the years, it's the best video on the topic I've ever found. I notice you shimmed behind the bearing race to move the pinion toward the rear, to bring the paint pattern into spec. Just after 17:10 you mentioned that you were going to take a risk by pressing the new bearing onto the pinion, guessing that no more shims would be needed there. What sign on the paint pattern would prompt you to take off the gear to add or remove extra shim there? What do you think about the method of sanding the old bearings down so they come off easily, adjusting shims to get contact patterns into spec, then install the new bearings and shims with more confidence that you won't need to remove bearings again?
So in that video, me taking a chance was before I had a clamshell bearing puller. Meaning if I was wrong, that would have sucked as there isn't a "good" way to pull the bearing if I was wrong. Even bearing "splitters" can cause damage. As far as sanding down a bearing, I'm all for that EXCEPT that you don't want to use an old bearing. You want to use a NEW bearing. Old ones have too much play and will create a pattern that will be different from final setup. I can't stress how frustrating that is. As far as reading patterns, it's kind of an art in a sense. I'll try to do a video on that some day👍
Looks like a factory Dana housing with what appears to be a "custom" brace/truss to beef it up. I would assume housing straightness was checked after the welding.
Before, during, and after👍
Awesome video. Can you do one for the C8.25? ;)
Incredible video! Thank you. Trying to learn and pump myself up because I have to replace the Trac-Loc in my 86 Dana 44 rear. Question for you guys. If I get a Dana Open Carrier, can I re-use my gears? R/P or Spider? Or should I plan to replace everything? Any "okay" ways to save some cash? My trac-loc clutch pads separated and have worn out the housing, Jeep drives fine but i think it's a ticking time bomb. Also where is your shop located? Searched for BFH but couldn't find it.
Yes you can just replace the carrier and reinstall. Make sure you get the right carrier for the gears you have. They have a carrier "break" depending on your gear ratio. Be sure to keep shims on the side they came out of if you reuse your gears. Check backlash before and after to make sure you're good to go.
You are professional
Couple of interesting choices there. Liked the idea that you spaced thr pinion race rather than pulling the bearinf iff and respacing it.
Atleast for setup.. also, now im curious if im stick spacinf the carrier every time rayher like on other axles whwre you space the carrier races agains the housing..
Either way works unless you are using an ARB
@@TheBFHGarage I'm actually in the process of regearing right now, but I opted for E-lockers rather than air. That arb air set up looks kinda like a pita having to deal with that copper line and little end peice.
Ive always shimmed the races rather than the carrier and it turns out I have shims for either. Shimming the races is much easier though cause you're not stuck pressing a set of bearings on and off.
Did you leave those pinion shims on the race for final assembly or did you pull the bearing off and shim it accordingly. I guess it wouldnt matter either way but I kinda like that idea of not having to press stuff on and off more than I have too.
@@DGrant1801 set up pinion race. Install shims under the new race.
huge thanks to northridge 4x4 for the opportunity for me to learn how to do a rear end. its so unbelievebly hard to find people comfortable with breaking into the gears i would just rather save the labor money and do it twice for cheaper over a weekend.
Outstanding video! Did you set the pinion depth to a pinion depth stamped on the end of the pinion? I ask because many sources say that is the first step then fix lash by adjusting ring gear shims. Please help me understand.
I don't ever look at what is on the head of the pinion simply for the fact it is quicker to use the existing pinion depth shim to start. Either way you're most likely going to have to make adjustments.
Wow, thanks for quick reply. Your willingness to share is helping so many of us. Know we really appreciate it and you deserve all good that comes your way. Your answer makes sense. I guess worst case is new pinion is different enough from original pinion dimensions that an adjustment to pinion depth becomes necessary. Take care.
I've never seen that method for getting the carrier out of the housing before, that's awesome, I've always pryed it out with one or two pry bars and it can be difficult to get out sometimes or can come out all at once with a "pop"
on to the ground or in your face.
So to verify your pinion depth is correct for your ring gear/pinion pattern, you don't need any crush sleeve?
you can just run it down onto the bearings, ( don't crush them) of course, and would you have to run the nut down tight enough to get the specified pinion preload? Or just making contact, would that be enough to check your pattern and then set up backlash?
In my experience, I've had to check for a pattern with the carrier torqued all the way and the preload in range on the pinion as well, because that extra finish torque makes a difference, it makes a difference setting backlash if the carrier is not torqued to specs. everything needs to be torqued to specs I found before, otherwise if you're not quite there when you put it together for the last time and everything is set to specs, that extra tightness I've had it where I can't rotate the ring gear just because it pulls the pinion and ring gear to mesh together tighter.
In other words I found to not get a different result when I put it together for keeps,
I had to have checked it with the pinion with the specified inch pounds of preload and the carrier torqued in the housing to specs,
because a few thousand more pulls it tighter in mesh & will change things, if I didn't check it that way with preload set on the pinion and the carrier torqued.
When i first learned of that carrier removal method (from a Wizard) I was so happy to see it work so well!
I run the pinion nut without a crush sleeve (or shims depending on the axle) but am careful to not overtighten it. I get it to torque spec range (by feel) without crushing the bearings. That's all it takes.
As far as getting to full torque spec just to check, I've never had that issue that you describe. I also always double check pattern and backlash after final assembly to ensure it is correct. If it were to change, I wuold see it then.
@@TheBFHGarage good knoldge.. a real exlent answer
When you adjusted the pinion depth you re-checked the backlash. If the backlash had moved out of spec, would you have first removed the carrier & corrected the backlash before running your pattern?
Yes, exactly.
I'm big fan sir
Awesome video! Trying to learn to do my own regear. Are the shims in a stock open carrier on the inside of the bearings or are they all on the outside like that?
Depends on which axle. On the Dana 30 in a TJ, if it's an open carrier they go under the bearings most of the time. And I only say that because most of them have master shims that go to the outside. I would recommend looking at the factory service manual for your specific model. The Rubicon model has shims that go to the outside. ARB air lockers place the shims to the outside.
@@TheBFHGarage My XJ's Dana 30 has them on the inside, but I screwed up and pressed my new bearings on, thinking they would go on the outside. Would I be running any risks if I put them on the outside? Could they work themselves out of place?
Do you have thicker OEM master shims that were on the outside or only thinner shims between the bearing and carrier?
Is the crush sleeve the same on the Dana 30 as the Dana 35
Great video, just awesome instructions. Quick question, so the crush sleeve for preload gets done after you get your shims, etc for depth set, proper patter set... correct ?? :) I know dumb question.
Not a dumb question at all. A lot of people don't understand that part. You do not install your crush sleeve until final setup. So when you are setting pinion depth and are ready to run a pattern, you need to tighten the yoke nut without the pinion crush sleeve installed and then tighten it down to about 15 to 20 inch pounds. The crush sleeve maintains that preload when it's installed that final assembly.
@The BFH Garage perfect, thank you. I am considering jumping on this myself with my 06 LJ to get it to 456. Done everything auto repated other than gears lol wish me luck lol
Since we snug down yoke & cap bolts to set back lash & pinion depth, for easy removal & reinstal, will the final specs change when all is torqued to spec?
The purpose of putting the bearing caps on and snugging them down is to keep the carrier from moving and making sure it is fully seated to get an accurate reading. Torquing to spec is for final assembly.
Damn you're good
Good video. My wife was complaining of a tick noise in the front end of her ‘01 grand Cherokee Laredo. I’ve checked the hubs and axles on both sides and they were all good. So I located the noise in the front diff. I assume I’m gonna have to rebuild the front diff but I don’t know much about spider gears any tips?
If the spider gears are good but the R&P are bad, no need to replace the spiders. If the spiders are shot, simply remove the roll pin and pull out the cross shafts. Rotate the gears out. Then pull out the side gears. It is very easy.
Great channel!! Is it better to do a setup race or bearing?
Either works well.
How do you know if you have the correct amount of carrier bearing shims for bearing preload? Is it just a feel of puting it in the case?
It should take a 6-8 whacks with a deadblow hammer. You shouldn't be able to pull it out by hand.
Can the inner pinion set up race (HM88610) be used for both the Dana 35 and 30? Looks like they both share the same race for the inner pinion bearing but the bearing numbers are different.
If you're finding that the race numbers are the same, then yes you can use the same set up race. I can't remember what bearing and race numbers go to what anymore lol so verify before proceeding!
Cool. Great videos. If I can figure out Patreon I’m going to subscribe so I can get more information for my rebuilds.
Is regearing the dana 35 the same procedure? Other then have the moon clips holding the axle shafts in. Pinion Shims behined race? and shiumming carrier?
Yep, all pretty much the same.
@@TheBFHGarage awesome. Thank you for replying so fast. Cleaned out my Dana 30 today and putting in the gear’s tomorrow. Then moving to the rear. I really appreciate it!
Ok so I have a Jeep that I need to replace some gear bearings. How far in depth will I need to go? Will I need to check back lash since all I’m doing is changing bearings but keeping the spacers?
You should be able to just swap out the bearings keeping all the shims in their original locations. If you are changing the pinion bearings too, then you will need a new crush sleeve and seal. However, I always check backlash and run a pattern so I can verify everything is still good.
@@TheBFHGarage I’m starting a channel called “the wj way “
Excellent video I'm working on my 06 Wrangler with D30 on the front..bought a Grizzly locker and I pressed bearings with no shims in place so I have to install them outside the race. My question is where can I buy the larger, thicker Shims?or item# I order for D30 but keep getting the smaller ones for the inboard installation..any help is greatly appreciated 🙏
You'll have to measure your old ones and compare to shim kits it there. They're all over the place
@@TheBFHGarage ok Thanks
Good video. Do you have to torque the pinion nut to a certain spec, or just unil rotational torque is acquired?
The FSM will give a torque range based on the year and axle. On an axle that uses shims, install the proper amount of shims until you achieve rotational torque spec while also tightening to the pinion nut torque spec. So if you can tighten the pinion nut to say 200 ft/lbs and the rotational torque is in that 16-20 range then you're good to go. If your rotational torque is greater or less than 16-20, then you'll need to either add it subtract shims.
@@TheBFHGarage is that with the crush sleeve?
@@jasonhurlbert5593 no, that is using shims. With a crush sleeve you tighten in until you get to your rotational torque spec and then stop. Crush sleeves can be a bear to start and very easily over crushed. Once you feel it start to go, tighten it in very small increments constantly checking.
@@TheBFHGarage ok, that's what I was confused about. Thank you, I really appreciate your help
Have you ever had a issue with that ring gear expanding too much out of the over where the bolt holes won't line up? What temp and how long did you put the ring in the oven
Never had a problem. 200° for about 20 minutes is all. Unless you want well done 😂