Outstanding Job! Neat, tidy and nearly touches on all of the exceptions for using NM cable in conduits. Your explanation was clear and concise with code references that eliminated lots of arm chair electrician comments.
Nicely done! To my understanding, Article 334 used to say NM cable could not be run in conduit and has been deleted. So,(my opinion) the conduits in the closet are there as raceway because NM cannot be run exposed in this instance. If you are using pvc for physical protection, 334.15 (B) states schedule 80 pvc, not schedule 40. I am assuming you put the circuits on 2 pole breakers. Again, very nicely don project!
Thanks Ken, it took me several months of reading NEC 2017 to create the plan and then a few more months to execute it. Yes, I did use two pole breakers and I even used Combination Arc Fault breakers, those babies weren't cheap. The 20A two pole breakers ran $100 each. Thanks for watching.
@@StevesStrayStuff I’m not sure that you were required to use Arc Fault breakers. Typically, the dwelling unit is only required to be up to the NEC it was designed and installed under. A call to your areas inspection department would answer that. Not sure how you came up with #10 required for voltage drop. Must have been pretty long run. If you need questions answered in future, just ask. I designed electrical for 36 years.
@@KevinCoop1 Wow Kevin, thanks for the offer to assist, I really appreciate that! The Arc Faults were not required in my area, but I used them just to be safe, I must have put in three hundred staples running the wires through the attic. Ah, the 10-gage wire, good question. I purchased new audio gear and it operates on 100V - 250V with optimum performance achieved using 250VAC. I installed dual voltage outlets, so I have 125V and 250V at each outlet and each outlet is rated for 20A. The audio gear has 20-amp circuit breakers in the chassis. My branch circuits are eighty-five feet, so I did all the voltage drop calculations using 125V to make sure I stayed above the worst-case scenario of 3%. To stay above the 3% at 125V, the 10-gage wire gave me 2.85%. My family room and bedroom lights do not dim with the bass anymore.
@@StevesStrayStuff You have done lots of homework. NM is required to be supported and secured every 4’6”. Let’s check one thing please. You probably used 20 amps in your calculation. Can you tell me either amps at 120 or 240 volts, or total watts? Should be on nameplate but, maybe not.
The manufacturer’s manual just says 100VAC - 250VAC input and the amplifiers have 20-amp circuit breakers in the chassis. However, the output of each monoblock amplifier is rated at 1000W RMS into a 4Ω load. I am positive that I have provided my equipment a very stiff power source for optimum performance and also futureproofed myself 🤘🤘🤘
Thank you Doomzy, I was in the code book for months before attempting the job. With the amount of time I spent in that at book, I wanted to make it easier for others.
Hi clone, that is not a dumb question because I did look at going that route. The new panel would have to be in my hallway or a spare bedroom. In that case, I would want it to be a flush mount panel instead of surface mount and the feeder wire gage would have to be increased from 3 AWG to 1/0 AWG. The sub panel looks more appropriate in the garage instead of my home interior and I think was easier to install. Thanks for watching.
@@StevesStrayStuff very nice! I'm a power lineman by trade but also audio is my hobby. Have a tube integrated amp and some warfedale evo 4.4s. Changing my service from 100 amp too 200a with audio equipment in mind. Hehehe. Would it have been feasible to install a sub panel in your case or nah? Sometimes it's cheaper given copper prices.
@@wng8993 The 200A upgrade is a great idea. My main panel is 200A, the load calculations said I was only using 128A, but it is full, I could not add more breakers, so I added a sub panel for the audio gear. With the audio gear on their own branch circuits, my family room lights and bedroom lights don't dim with the bass anymore. Enjoy your musical journey!
Haha, just the two main speaker monoblock amplifiers output 1000W RMS each into a 4 ohm load. My sound pressure level meter hit 108db in my listening area, woo-hoo!
NEC 2017, Chapter 9, Tables, Note (9), page 1104: (9) A multiconductor cable, optical fiber cable, or flexible cord of two or more conductors shall be treated as a single conductor for calculating percentage conduit or tubing fill area. For cables that have elliptical cross sections, the cross-sectional area calculation shall be based on using the major diameter of the ellipse as a circle diameter. Assemblies of single insulated conductors without an overall covering shall not be considered a cable when determining conduit or tubing fill area. The conduit or tubing fill for the assemblies shall be calculated based upon the individual conductors.
Hi Kevin. The wire was the most costly, the PVC was very inexpensive. I ran six 10/3 with a ground and three 12/2 with a ground. The wire lengths were 100 feet each and the total cost of the wire was $700. I would put the total cost for the supplies at about $900. I purchased all of my wire from Wire & Cable Your Way. Thanks for watching. www.wireandcableyourway.com/
i know this is an older video, however, my question is, could i apply the same concept to the feeder wire going from my garage’s main panel into a subpanel located in my basement? i would like to run 1-1-1-3 aluminum cable into a conduit as that portion of the cable would exit my garage and be attached to exterior of my home for about 3 feet…and once it enters my basement, eliminate the conduit as you’ve done once the conduit reached your attic
Hi Pharaoh. You will need to check the NEC 2020 code, but I think if you use 1-1-1-3 Aluminum SER Service Entrance Cable you could make it work. SER is type SE, Style R cable, used as an above ground service entrance cable, a panel feeder and in branch circuits. The cable is rated at 600 volts and 90_C for use in wet and dry locations. I do believe that you can put SER cable in conduit to protect it from physical damage, but there are restrictions on conduit length and conduit cable fill percentage. Check Article 338, that will get you started in the right direction. Good luck with your project!
@@pharaohacura3618 Aluminum SER 1-1-1-3 has a diameter of .97" so a 2" Schedule 80 PVC conduit works out to be 26% cable fill, that way you won't exceed the worst-case scenario of 40% cable fill. A 1.5" conduit is 43% cable fill. If you use a Copper SER 2-2-2-4, you get 125 amps instead of 110 amps and you don't have to worry about oxidation and grease application, the diameter is the same .97” so you are still at 26% cable fill.
@@pharaohacura3618 DAMN!!! Never looked at the price per foot until you mentioned it, that copper wire is expensive! You can buy a ton of grease with the $200 savings, haha 🍻
Hi dirtdevil. I used a dual voltage outlet, a Leviton 5842, one socket is 125V, one socket is 250V. I pasted the link for the dual voltage outlet. www.leviton.com/en/products/5842-i I wired them per the National Electrical Code 2017, Article 210, Exhibit 210.2
Unless you're powering a stack of Class A monoblocks, this is WAY overkill. The biggest housewide system I've ever installed only needed 2 20A circuits.
Hi Doug. My goal was to totally futureproof myself. I only wanted to do this once and be done with it. I planned this installation around the audio gear I purchased. I have two monoblocks and one thirteen channel amplifier, each amplifier has a 20 amp circuit breaker in its chassis, plus the two powered subwoofers each have a 10 amp fuse. The vendor manuals state that the audio gear requires a 'stiff' power source, so that is what I provided my audio equipment. I am feeding them more electricity than they can consume. It is better to have to much power available rather than not enough. Thanks for watching.
Outstanding Job! Neat, tidy and nearly touches on all of the exceptions for using NM cable in conduits. Your explanation was clear and concise with code references that eliminated lots of arm chair electrician comments.
Thanks Modelmaker, air chair electricians, I like that one!
This video has been the most helpful! Thank you for posting!
Thank you Tec, I hope I was able to help you out with something. Thanks for watching!
Nicely done! To my understanding, Article 334 used to say NM cable could not be run in conduit and has been deleted. So,(my opinion) the conduits in the closet are there as raceway because NM cannot be run exposed in this instance. If you are using pvc for physical protection, 334.15 (B) states schedule 80 pvc, not schedule 40.
I am assuming you put the circuits on 2 pole breakers.
Again, very nicely don project!
Thanks Ken, it took me several months of reading NEC 2017 to create the plan and then a few more months to execute it. Yes, I did use two pole breakers and I even used Combination Arc Fault breakers, those babies weren't cheap. The 20A two pole breakers ran $100 each. Thanks for watching.
@@StevesStrayStuff I’m not sure that you were required to use Arc Fault breakers. Typically, the dwelling unit is only required to be up to the NEC it was designed and installed under. A call to your areas inspection department would answer that. Not sure how you came up with #10 required for voltage drop. Must have been pretty long run. If you need questions answered in future, just ask. I designed electrical for 36 years.
@@KevinCoop1 Wow Kevin, thanks for the offer to assist, I really appreciate that! The Arc Faults were not required in my area, but I used them just to be safe, I must have put in three hundred staples running the wires through the attic. Ah, the 10-gage wire, good question. I purchased new audio gear and it operates on 100V - 250V with optimum performance achieved using 250VAC. I installed dual voltage outlets, so I have 125V and 250V at each outlet and each outlet is rated for 20A. The audio gear has 20-amp circuit breakers in the chassis. My branch circuits are eighty-five feet, so I did all the voltage drop calculations using 125V to make sure I stayed above the worst-case scenario of 3%. To stay above the 3% at 125V, the 10-gage wire gave me 2.85%. My family room and bedroom lights do not dim with the bass anymore.
@@StevesStrayStuff You have done lots of homework. NM is required to be supported and secured every 4’6”. Let’s check one thing please. You probably used 20 amps in your calculation. Can you tell me either amps at 120 or 240 volts, or total watts? Should be on nameplate but, maybe not.
The manufacturer’s manual just says 100VAC - 250VAC input and the amplifiers have 20-amp circuit breakers in the chassis. However, the output of each monoblock amplifier is rated at 1000W RMS into a 4Ω load. I am positive that I have provided my equipment a very stiff power source for optimum performance and also futureproofed myself 🤘🤘🤘
Kudos to your code knowledge and explanation. Great work👌🏼
Thank you Doomzy, I was in the code book for months before attempting the job. With the amount of time I spent in that at book, I wanted to make it easier for others.
That’s a lot of wires.
Indeed it is, each audio amplifier now has its own dedicated 20 amp circuit. The lights in my house do not dim with the bass anymore!
Steve, honestly, your electronics still level is truly impressive. Your work is wonderfully accomplished.
Thank you Squirrel, I do take pride in it. I have been wiring aircraft for thirty-five years.
@@StevesStrayStuff A fellow wing-nut! Ha, I knew it! You're attention to detail is aircraft grade. Great work, Steve.
@@SASouthwing Haha, a wing-nut! I don't think I could hire someone that could give the same cosmetic end result that I can achieve myself.
Nice
Thank you Robert!
This super great video!
Thank you for watching!
A dumb question. Could the sub panel go closer to the equipment?
Hi clone, that is not a dumb question because I did look at going that route. The new panel would have to be in my hallway or a spare bedroom. In that case, I would want it to be a flush mount panel instead of surface mount and the feeder wire gage would have to be increased from 3 AWG to 1/0 AWG. The sub panel looks more appropriate in the garage instead of my home interior and I think was easier to install. Thanks for watching.
What have you have for sound equipment?
hi T. I have Emotiva gear and it operates using 125 - 250VAC, the amplifiers have 20 amp fuses in the backplane.
@@StevesStrayStuff very nice! I'm a power lineman by trade but also audio is my hobby. Have a tube integrated amp and some warfedale evo 4.4s. Changing my service from 100 amp too 200a with audio equipment in mind. Hehehe. Would it have been feasible to install a sub panel in your case or nah? Sometimes it's cheaper given copper prices.
@@wng8993 The 200A upgrade is a great idea. My main panel is 200A, the load calculations said I was only using 128A, but it is full, I could not add more breakers, so I added a sub panel for the audio gear. With the audio gear on their own branch circuits, my family room lights and bedroom lights don't dim with the bass anymore. Enjoy your musical journey!
@@StevesStrayStuff hahaha! "Lights dimming" That's how I listen too! And you too!
How many watts is the sound system? Six 220v 30A circuit. Damn
Haha, just the two main speaker monoblock amplifiers output 1000W RMS each into a 4 ohm load. My sound pressure level meter hit 108db in my listening area, woo-hoo!
Where in the code does it talk about elliptical fill?
NEC 2017, Chapter 9, Tables, Note (9), page 1104:
(9) A multiconductor cable, optical fiber cable, or flexible cord of two or more conductors shall be treated as a single conductor for calculating percentage conduit or tubing fill area. For cables that have elliptical cross sections, the cross-sectional area calculation shall be based on using the major diameter of the ellipse as a circle diameter. Assemblies of single insulated conductors without an overall covering shall not be considered a cable when determining conduit or tubing fill area. The conduit or tubing fill for the assemblies shall be calculated based upon the individual conductors.
Great information!
Thankyou VG, I hope you found some information you can use. Thanks for watching!
Very amazing 😉 job. I’m curious how much did this cost in materials
Hi Kevin. The wire was the most costly, the PVC was very inexpensive. I ran six 10/3 with a ground and three 12/2 with a ground. The wire lengths were 100 feet each and the total cost of the wire was $700. I would put the total cost for the supplies at about $900. I purchased all of my wire from Wire & Cable Your Way. Thanks for watching.
www.wireandcableyourway.com/
That is really neat I love it.
Thank you. It does look like the vision I had in my mind when planning this job.
i know this is an older video, however, my question is, could i apply the same concept to the feeder wire going from my garage’s main panel into a subpanel located in my basement? i would like to run 1-1-1-3 aluminum cable into a conduit as that portion of the cable would exit my garage and be attached to exterior of my home for about 3 feet…and once it enters my basement, eliminate the conduit as you’ve done once the conduit reached your attic
Hi Pharaoh. You will need to check the NEC 2020 code, but I think if you use 1-1-1-3 Aluminum SER Service Entrance Cable you could make it work. SER is type SE, Style R cable, used as an above ground service entrance cable, a panel feeder and in branch circuits. The cable is rated at 600 volts and 90_C for use in wet and dry locations. I do believe that you can put SER cable in conduit to protect it from physical damage, but there are restrictions on conduit length and conduit cable fill percentage. Check Article 338, that will get you started in the right direction. Good luck with your project!
@@StevesStrayStuff thank you very much…i really appreciate you even taking the time to respond
@@pharaohacura3618 Aluminum SER 1-1-1-3 has a diameter of .97" so a 2" Schedule 80 PVC conduit works out to be 26% cable fill, that way you won't exceed the worst-case scenario of 40% cable fill. A 1.5" conduit is 43% cable fill. If you use a Copper SER 2-2-2-4, you get 125 amps instead of 110 amps and you don't have to worry about oxidation and grease application, the diameter is the same .97” so you are still at 26% cable fill.
@@StevesStrayStuff here in Virginia, the price for copper wire of that size is $11/foot versus $2.50 for aluminum….i need about 30 feet, lol
@@pharaohacura3618 DAMN!!! Never looked at the price per foot until you mentioned it, that copper wire is expensive! You can buy a ton of grease with the $200 savings, haha 🍻
Did you use 120v receptacles for the 240?
Hi dirtdevil. I used a dual voltage outlet, a Leviton 5842, one socket is 125V, one socket is 250V. I pasted the link for the dual voltage outlet. www.leviton.com/en/products/5842-i I wired them per the National Electrical Code 2017, Article 210, Exhibit 210.2
Unless you're powering a stack of Class A monoblocks, this is WAY overkill. The biggest housewide system I've ever installed only needed 2 20A circuits.
Hi Doug. My goal was to totally futureproof myself. I only wanted to do this once and be done with it. I planned this installation around the audio gear I purchased. I have two monoblocks and one thirteen channel amplifier, each amplifier has a 20 amp circuit breaker in its chassis, plus the two powered subwoofers each have a 10 amp fuse. The vendor manuals state that the audio gear requires a 'stiff' power source, so that is what I provided my audio equipment. I am feeding them more electricity than they can consume. It is better to have to much power available rather than not enough. Thanks for watching.