Another unsung hero that gives his time to allow mechanical noobs (me!) to carry out these jobs and in the process save a fortune. Well done mate exactly what i needed.
Three years on this is a still a great resource for these Fiat "FIRE" engines. Ive just done the cam belt and water pump on a 1.2 Panda and a 1.4 100HP Panda. 1.4 - remove cam belt and set the crank at 1/2 stroke with the piston guide pins. Now fit the crank locking tool. When done, remove the old belt and it's done. You only need to loosen the cam wheel if you think its was previously set wrong (or the cams have been removed). I have a torque reaction bar to hold the wheel when tightening the end bolt. DO NOT tighten against the cam locking tool Alsobelt beneath. justbefore On both, the lack of working space is a real pain. I regretted not loosening the gearbox engine mount to make more space. It just seemed to much trouble, but I was wrong just bite the bullet. Well with it in the end.
Very late to this video Jim but I guess you search for things when you need to. I need to replace the head gasket on a 2014 Ford Ka and this goes a long way into where I need to be before removing the head. I'm not a mechanic but have a healthy interest in mechanics. I'm a construction manager so used to being methodical and following a process. Many thanks for taking the time back then to do this video. All the best, Gaz.
I appreciate your choice of music. Thanks, my daughter just got a Fiat 500 and it needs a TB change out this was a great walkthrough. I will probably do the water pump at the same time as well. Cheers!
Just replaced the cam belt on my Fiat Panda. Thank you for your excellent video. Great clear instructions, made the job so much easier. Thanks again :)
Great instruction Videos Jim. First time I ever felt confident to change timimg-belt on a car (Panda). Car runs great afterwards too!! I also changed crankshaft oilseal while I was at it!!!
just stumbled over your video and you need vital information. On the gearbox there is a rubber cap, you must remove that. Underneath there are som degrees markings. You must turn the crank so the marking on the flywheel align the 0 degrees marking, that makes sure there is no tension on the camshaft... so it doesn't move when belt is removed... and makes sure that the belt doesn't slip a notch, which seems to be a problem fore some.
God those 4 X 15mm bolts on the engine mounting bracket are so tight !!! , that's after you've ground down your nicest 15mm spanner to fit around the air gap on the mounting coz you can't use a socket or a swan neck spanner coz it's too tight to use them , apart from that quite easy to do , I always change the water pump as it's driven by the belt too , great pictures and detail , thanks
A question about the tensioner. Should it not be fully tensioned past the markings and the engine rotated 720 degrees and then the tensioner set at the correct level?
sorry forgot to ask you have yours on hydrolic ramps can i just jack up car and put axle stand each side at front of car and then suport sump with a small jack
What about the age-old trick of slicing the old cambelt in half with a stanley blade, sliding the new one on, then cutting the rest of the old one off? Would I be able to work it that way? I dont have any special tools you see
Erm id never recommend doing that. Buy the tools to do it properly they arnt expensive then you know its timed and tensioned properly, failing that use tipex then atleast you can make sure you still time it up correctly and are able to tension it
ALL THINGS JIM true but that way the belt and timing remains the same I suppose that method wont work if you need to change the tensioner and to be honest might do the water pump while I’m in there
Its best to, you normally find things like old waterpumps leak with the new tension of the new cambelt after. Plus it would probably be quicker and less hassle to just time it and use tipex if you were going to go down that route. And added piece of mind its done properly
The best video outhere by far thank you so much, is it the same engine as the Jeep Renegade 1.4 Multiair? as i would like to change the cambelt myself too, thank you for this excellent tutorial Greetings from Nottingham England👍👌🙏
Hi Jim. Thanks for video. You have mentioned using circlip pliers as a substitute for the tensioner adjusting tool. I have seen descriptions for bent nose circlip pliers as "internal" or "external". Not sure what the difference is. Does it matter what type they are?
toyo toe Hi! On Internal circlip pliers the spring action pushes the ends together when you squeeze the handles, external they open up (ends push away from eachother) when the handle is squeezed. Hope that helps 👍
I have 1 question, adjusting the tensioner (with the special tool or pliers) is done after the tensioner is placed and the nut mounted handtight right ? So you place the tensioner, place the nut, tighten, and then you turn it anticlockwise until the markers overlap and then further tighten the nut, correct ? Just wanted to make sure. Thanks for sharing this, it's the first time i have seen a proper and actual usefull video for this engine relating to changing the timingbelt.
Sergio Casino thanks! And yeah put the tensioner on, put the nut on finger tight then adjust (anti-clockwise) and tighten further so it holds in place then torque the nut, check the tensioner hasnt moved and your good 👍
Hi, Did that job without special tools. (Fiat 350A1000 engine) Marks semmed to be aligned, but after starting the engine MIL came on. Revs limited ca. 4000. Code reading says valve timing is not correct, What may I have got wrong? Since then I've purchased a tool-kit. How should I check the timing by using the tool? And how could I adjust it? I'd appreciate if you could help me. Thx
Oh dear, yeah your timing will be out by mabie a tooth or two if thats happened. Id wager its the crank thats moved when the belt was put on, did you tipex the top crank pulley when you timed it up originally before removing old belt? If so id strip it back down, rotate the engine so the top cam pully marks line up and you will probably find the crank is slightly out, then remove the belt and use the bottom crank tool to line up the bottom as shown if youve brought one, line the crank up properly with the tool so it holds the crank in place, check your camshaft pully marks are still in line then refit the belt as shown in the video and you should be fine, if you didnt mark the top cam pulley up then you will need to remove the rocker cover also and use a locking tool / bar in the back of the camshaft to time the top up correctly. The eml light will need resetting before you start the car after timing or it will just stay on and may effect its running. Hope that helps 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM I doublechecked the marks so thats very strange to me. I`ll try setting the camshaft by the bar to the right position and I'll see wether the position of the cranckshaft is ok. Oh, by the way can the upper pulley's position vary relative to the camshaft? Because of the Vvt?
@@SkywalkerTibor only if you remove the pulley itself for some reason, otherwise just marking it would be fine, most vvt is adjusted hydraulically by oil pressure and valves once it hit a certain rev range. In short not by doing this cambelt aha
I just wanna thank you for the valuable tips. Yesterday I reset the timing by tool. It was misalign by one tooth. Engine runs perfectly again. After a few engine starts Check Engine Light went off by itself.
I have a few questions if you could please help, do you not need to set the car to tdc? And also will this guide help with the 1.4L 16v MiTo? Thank you for the video
very informative many thanks, is this procedure applicable to the european fiat 500 abarth "T-jet engine models" as well or is it only for fiat "multiair engines" ?
aqib2000 as silly as it sounds, watch the end part of my turbo replacement video I show you a neat trick on how to remove/ install a stud if you dont have a stud removal tool, but basically get the nut loose off the stud then put two nuts on it, tighten the end nut upto the front nut then use the end nut to tighten the stud back in, yes id put a blob of locktight on thats a good idea, do it tight but dont go crazy with it last thing you need is it snapping, then youll have a headache, once its in put a spanner on the front nut and undo the end nut then you can remove the front nut and carry on. Hope that makes sense and helps 👍
Thanks Jim, I already know about double nut procedure, but the actual installation torque is what I'm concerned about which no one ever mentions. Bottom it out into block and knowing when to stop is my issue. The 13mm nut itself is 25-31Nm.
aqib2000 ah i see, you only need to put it in finger tight then nip it up slightly as when you torque the bolt to 35 Nm it will infact tighten itself up at the same time before the bolt manages to hit its torque setting. Hope that helps
Thumbs up sounds good. Thanks that sounds relieving as I did one yesterday with the above issue and did the same (Fiat GP torqued to 28Nm as per AutoData range)
That is an OEM tool however if you search on ebay for either Ford KA timing tools or Fiat Punto timing tools multiple sets with it in come up for around £40. Also if you pause the video on it and wanted to pay more for some reaon and have an OEM one the top numbers on it are the tools identification number, Hope that helps, thanks for watching 👍
awesome, my timing belt is due and your video was awesome help! if i marked all the pullies with tipex could i get away with that because its already aligned or do i need to find TDC first. thanks dude
@@mackingj6500 do it as shown in the video, if you dont align it first and just use tipex sometimes the cams can be under tension and when you take belt off can spin so better safe than sorry, atleast then if for some reason something moves you know where it should be 👍
Is there a way to check the timing without the tools? Got the car back from a guy and its giving error on cam but there is no marks on pully to line it up. Bottom has marks but not top or is there?
No unfortunately not, if your getting that code after timing most likely it will be out of time or the sensor unplugged. Your best bet would be to see if they used tipex on the top to mark it before removal, lining up the top marks see if the bottom is out of line, if it is then remove the belt (with the top still in line )and then timing up the bottom up afterwards and refit belt turn it over atleast 4 times and make sure all marks line back up. Otherwise minimally youll have to buy the bar that goes into the back of the cam after rocker cover is removed. Hope that helps 👍
ALL THINGS JIM thanks mate , and in terms on setting the tensioner do you use to tool to set e two prongs in line with each other and hold it there whilst tightening the centre bolt ?
mark lane thanks! Technically no aslong as you guarantee the pulleys dont move however id always line them up then mark them just to be 100% sure, doesn't take long to line them up and could save you time and a headache later 👍
mark lane the crank one is if you have the little tool shown in the video, otherwise theres a little line which you line a mark up on the crank pulley with, the top can only be timed up with either tipex like shown in the video or by removing the rocker cover and using an official timing bar in the back of the camshaft, if you dont have the tool for the crank i use in this video just get the crank positon roughly to where it is shown in video (look at position of the little pulley location nipple bit where bolts holes are) then just tipex all your marks, to be honest ive done many of these cambelts just using tipex and its been perfect -but the bar is slightly easier as the crank cant move when putting belt back on making you have to take it off and line it up again..... Mark it all up with tipex when new belt is on check they are all still in line, tension the tensioner, check the marks again, rotate the engine over by hand 4 times until marks line up again if everything is still in line youll be fine 👍
mark lane sounds like you have either, got the timing slightly out of line or mabie you have unplugged a sensor and forgot to plug it back in? Did you unplug the sensor where the wire goes round the timing cover?
many thanks for reply,i turned engine over about six times and my marks always lined up,i didnt unplug the crank sensor just removed wire from in cover,it is very low on fuel,going to get some tomorrow,and going to try disconnecting battery.
mark lane ok, you did mark up the pullys etc while old belt was on before removal didnt you? An eml light on and poor idle/ running after the change would indicate either an electrical fault from a sensor being knocked off (or not put back on) or the timing being out by say a tooth or two, so if it was ok before but not now it might be worth just slowly and calmly redoing the steps you took and just checking everything is plugged in etc. Failing that id say do the timing again just incase, atleast then you can be 100% sure
mark lane it wont be that the phonic wheel on yours is the crank pulleys jagged tooth part at the back of it, its more likely to be a rebuilding issue or a sensor issue, phonic wheel faults normally are from the magnetic strip kind or caused by a faulty sensor (like the crank sensor coming adrift or startin to go faulty)they also tend to cause misfires or failure to start and yours was fine before the cambelt change i take it? best to retrace your steps and redo it mate
![[EN] Watch and Work - Fiat Punto 1.2l](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/K5cZ7rrsw10/mqdefault.jpg)
Another unsung hero that gives his time to allow mechanical noobs (me!) to carry out these jobs and in the process save a fortune. Well done mate exactly what i needed.
Ray Smith, thanks for the kind words! Glad i could help👍👍👍
Three years on this is a still a great resource for these Fiat "FIRE" engines. Ive just done the cam belt and water pump on a 1.2 Panda and a 1.4 100HP Panda.
1.4 - remove cam belt and set the crank at 1/2 stroke with the piston guide pins. Now fit the crank locking tool. When done, remove the old belt and it's done. You only need to loosen the cam wheel if you think its was previously set wrong (or the cams have been removed). I have a torque reaction bar to hold the wheel when tightening the end bolt. DO NOT tighten against the cam locking tool
Alsobelt beneath.
justbefore
On both, the lack of working space is a real pain. I regretted not loosening the gearbox engine mount to make more space. It just seemed to much trouble, but I was wrong just bite the bullet. Well with it in the end.
Very late to this video Jim but I guess you search for things when you need to. I need to replace the head gasket on a 2014 Ford Ka and this goes a long way into where I need to be before removing the head. I'm not a mechanic but have a healthy interest in mechanics. I'm a construction manager so used to being methodical and following a process. Many thanks for taking the time back then to do this video. All the best, Gaz.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍
i allways enjoy to watch wellmade how to do videos. This is one of them. Thank you..
Björn Holmgren thankyou for your kind words! 👍
I appreciate your choice of music. Thanks, my daughter just got a Fiat 500 and it needs a TB change out this was a great walkthrough. I will probably do the water pump at the same time as well. Cheers!
No problem, thanks for the comment! 👍
Extremely clear and helpful years after!
The music is nice too, thank you so much!
Just replaced the cam belt on my Fiat Panda. Thank you for your excellent video. Great clear instructions, made the job so much easier.
Thanks again :)
Great instruction Videos Jim.
First time I ever felt confident to change timimg-belt on a car (Panda). Car runs great afterwards too!! I also changed crankshaft oilseal while I was at it!!!
Great sequential instruction!!!
Glad I could help in some way! Thanks for commenting 👍👍👍
best i have seen well exsplained now i will have a go at mine and let you no how i got on thanks again keep up the good work
Thankyou!
how did you get on in the end mate
Thanks for the video, always good to get a wee refresher before doing an unfamiliar belt. Well laid out mate. Davy
Simple well constructed video.... Thank You....
just stumbled over your video and you need vital information. On the gearbox there is a rubber cap, you must remove that. Underneath there are som degrees markings.
You must turn the crank so the marking on the flywheel align the 0 degrees marking, that makes sure there is no tension on the camshaft... so it doesn't move when belt is removed... and makes sure that the belt doesn't slip a notch, which seems to be a problem fore some.
Exactly if you don't have it a TDC you may have issues.
Could not be clearer,excellent vid,,doing the wife's 1.4 this morn..no timing tools,,don't worry I'm on it..
A big help and easy to understand,many Thanks!
God those 4 X 15mm bolts on the engine mounting bracket are so tight !!! , that's after you've ground down your nicest 15mm spanner to fit around the air gap on the mounting coz you can't use a socket or a swan neck spanner coz it's too tight to use them , apart from that quite easy to do , I always change the water pump as it's driven by the belt too , great pictures and detail , thanks
A question about the tensioner. Should it not be fully tensioned past the markings and the engine rotated 720 degrees and then the tensioner set at the correct level?
What did end up doing ?
sorry forgot to ask you have yours on hydrolic ramps can i just jack up car and put axle stand each side at front of car and then suport sump with a small jack
Sure can, thats what i would do if i were doing it at home , just make sure to put some wood between the sump and jack 👍
Brilliant tutorial 👍👏.
Glad you liked it 😁👍
Excellent video. Thank you.
Hiya Jim. Very clear vid mate thanks. Only question is do you know the torque settings for tensioner bolt and 3 bolts on alternator pulley ? Thanks
Muchas gracias fue de gran ayuda tu vídeo gracias por tu tiempo ... Saludos de Mexicali México
What about the age-old trick of slicing the old cambelt in half with a stanley blade, sliding the new one on, then cutting the rest of the old one off? Would I be able to work it that way? I dont have any special tools you see
Erm id never recommend doing that. Buy the tools to do it properly they arnt expensive then you know its timed and tensioned properly, failing that use tipex then atleast you can make sure you still time it up correctly and are able to tension it
ALL THINGS JIM true but that way the belt and timing remains the same I suppose that method wont work if you need to change the tensioner and to be honest might do the water pump while I’m in there
Its best to, you normally find things like old waterpumps leak with the new tension of the new cambelt after. Plus it would probably be quicker and less hassle to just time it and use tipex if you were going to go down that route. And added piece of mind its done properly
The best video outhere by far thank you so much, is it the same engine as the Jeep Renegade 1.4 Multiair? as i would like to change the cambelt myself too, thank you for this excellent tutorial
Greetings from Nottingham
England👍👌🙏
Thanks.
Really useful video.
I think i'm going to fabrikate the tools my self ( no money).
I which you good year and health
Thank you
Hi Jim. Thanks for video. You have mentioned using circlip pliers as a substitute for the tensioner adjusting tool. I have seen descriptions for bent nose circlip pliers as "internal" or "external". Not sure what the difference is. Does it matter what type they are?
toyo toe Hi! On Internal circlip pliers the spring action pushes the ends together when you squeeze the handles, external they open up (ends push away from eachother) when the handle is squeezed. Hope that helps 👍
I have 1 question, adjusting the tensioner (with the special tool or pliers) is done after the tensioner is placed and the nut mounted handtight right ?
So you place the tensioner, place the nut, tighten, and then you turn it anticlockwise until the markers overlap and then further tighten the nut, correct ?
Just wanted to make sure.
Thanks for sharing this, it's the first time i have seen a proper and actual usefull video for this engine relating to changing the timingbelt.
Sergio Casino thanks! And yeah put the tensioner on, put the nut on finger tight then adjust (anti-clockwise) and tighten further so it holds in place then torque the nut, check the tensioner hasnt moved and your good 👍
Okay, thank you for your quick response !
I guess i am ready to do this tomorrow morning ...
Thanks for sharing this video👍 great information
No problem, thanks for watching and commenting 👍👍
Hi, Did that job without special tools. (Fiat 350A1000 engine) Marks semmed to be aligned, but after starting the engine MIL came on. Revs limited ca. 4000. Code reading says valve timing is not correct, What may I have got wrong? Since then I've purchased a tool-kit. How should I check the timing by using the tool? And how could I adjust it? I'd appreciate if you could help me. Thx
Oh dear, yeah your timing will be out by mabie a tooth or two if thats happened. Id wager its the crank thats moved when the belt was put on, did you tipex the top crank pulley when you timed it up originally before removing old belt? If so id strip it back down, rotate the engine so the top cam pully marks line up and you will probably find the crank is slightly out, then remove the belt and use the bottom crank tool to line up the bottom as shown if youve brought one, line the crank up properly with the tool so it holds the crank in place, check your camshaft pully marks are still in line then refit the belt as shown in the video and you should be fine, if you didnt mark the top cam pulley up then you will need to remove the rocker cover also and use a locking tool / bar in the back of the camshaft to time the top up correctly. The eml light will need resetting before you start the car after timing or it will just stay on and may effect its running. Hope that helps 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM I doublechecked the marks so thats very strange to me. I`ll try setting the camshaft by the bar to the right position and I'll see wether the position of the cranckshaft is ok. Oh, by the way can the upper pulley's position vary relative to the camshaft? Because of the Vvt?
@@SkywalkerTibor only if you remove the pulley itself for some reason, otherwise just marking it would be fine, most vvt is adjusted hydraulically by oil pressure and valves once it hit a certain rev range. In short not by doing this cambelt aha
I just wanna thank you for the valuable tips. Yesterday I reset the timing by tool. It was misalign by one tooth. Engine runs perfectly again. After a few engine starts Check Engine Light went off by itself.
@@SkywalkerTibor thats great! thanks for the update and kind comment 👍
I have a few questions if you could please help, do you not need to set the car to tdc? And also will this guide help with the 1.4L 16v MiTo? Thank you for the video
Great video, makes it pretty easy to do. One question I do have is should you replace the water pump too or is it not driven by the timing belt?
very informative many thanks, is this procedure applicable to the european fiat 500 abarth "T-jet engine models" as well or is it only for fiat "multiair engines" ?
Only FIRE engine
Thanks one more time.
I have a Lancia Y 1.4 . I think is the same engine.
Right???
Hello mate...what symptoms have this car when you miss alingment of cambelt for one or two tooths...?!
Excellent!! Thanks.
What about if the tensioner stud itself comes out with the 13mm nut removal. Any steps? Locktite etc?
aqib2000 as silly as it sounds, watch the end part of my turbo replacement video I show you a neat trick on how to remove/ install a stud if you dont have a stud removal tool, but basically get the nut loose off the stud then put two nuts on it, tighten the end nut upto the front nut then use the end nut to tighten the stud back in, yes id put a blob of locktight on thats a good idea, do it tight but dont go crazy with it last thing you need is it snapping, then youll have a headache, once its in put a spanner on the front nut and undo the end nut then you can remove the front nut and carry on. Hope that makes sense and helps 👍
Thanks Jim, I already know about double nut procedure, but the actual installation torque is what I'm concerned about which no one ever mentions. Bottom it out into block and knowing when to stop is my issue. The 13mm nut itself is 25-31Nm.
aqib2000 ah i see, you only need to put it in finger tight then nip it up slightly as when you torque the bolt to 35 Nm it will infact tighten itself up at the same time before the bolt manages to hit its torque setting. Hope that helps
Thumbs up sounds good. Thanks that sounds relieving as I did one yesterday with the above issue and did the same (Fiat GP torqued to 28Nm as per AutoData range)
What torque do you use for the Bolts that go into the cylinder head from the engine mount?
Where can i get the crankshaft pulley holder from? Can find one like yours anywhere.
Cheers bud, great stuff
That is an OEM tool however if you search on ebay for either Ford KA timing tools or Fiat Punto timing tools multiple sets with it in come up for around £40. Also if you pause the video on it and wanted to pay more for some reaon and have an OEM one the top numbers on it are the tools identification number, Hope that helps, thanks for watching 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Thanks for getting back in touch, appreciate it. Helped alot bud
great vid dude, could you do a video of this? big ask but vids are good because you can drop in little tips and advice
Thanks, yeah sure ill do a video when I next do one whenever that is (providing I have my camera!) 👍
awesome, my timing belt is due and your video was awesome help! if i marked all the pullies with tipex could i get away with that because its already aligned or do i need to find TDC first. thanks dude
@@mackingj6500 do it as shown in the video, if you dont align it first and just use tipex sometimes the cams can be under tension and when you take belt off can spin so better safe than sorry, atleast then if for some reason something moves you know where it should be 👍
ALL THINGS JIM ok thanks bro 👍✌️✌️
Why to rotate 4 times dhe engine? If tensioner move from that holes is OK?
Well done mate. Help Me your movie with my job 👍
Is there a way to check the timing without the tools? Got the car back from a guy and its giving error on cam but there is no marks on pully to line it up. Bottom has marks but not top or is there?
No unfortunately not, if your getting that code after timing most likely it will be out of time or the sensor unplugged. Your best bet would be to see if they used tipex on the top to mark it before removal, lining up the top marks see if the bottom is out of line, if it is then remove the belt (with the top still in line )and then timing up the bottom up afterwards and refit belt turn it over atleast 4 times and make sure all marks line back up. Otherwise minimally youll have to buy the bar that goes into the back of the cam after rocker cover is removed. Hope that helps 👍
Good video subscribed!
Out of interest what is the interval for the timing belt and water pump ?
Thankyou! If I remember correctly on the KA 1.2 Ford recommend every 5 years or 62500 miles 👍
ALL THINGS JIM thanks mate , and in terms on setting the tensioner do you use to tool to set e two prongs in line with each other and hold it there whilst tightening the centre bolt
?
bravo!
i see u marked the central cam hub to the cam sprocket...is that because it has variable valve timing?
Yes it has vvt
Thanks, very useful.
Nice helpful video
Great video thanks,just one question,if you mark all the pulleys,do you still need to line up the timing marks first,many thanks Mark.
mark lane thanks! Technically no aslong as you guarantee the pulleys dont move however id always line them up then mark them just to be 100% sure, doesn't take long to line them up and could save you time and a headache later 👍
Many thanks for your reply,are the timing marks easy to identify
mark lane the crank one is if you have the little tool shown in the video, otherwise theres a little line which you line a mark up on the crank pulley with, the top can only be timed up with either tipex like shown in the video or by removing the rocker cover and using an official timing bar in the back of the camshaft, if you dont have the tool for the crank i use in this video just get the crank positon roughly to where it is shown in video (look at position of the little pulley location nipple bit where bolts holes are) then just tipex all your marks, to be honest ive done many of these cambelts just using tipex and its been perfect -but the bar is slightly easier as the crank cant move when putting belt back on making you have to take it off and line it up again..... Mark it all up with tipex when new belt is on check they are all still in line, tension the tensioner, check the marks again, rotate the engine over by hand 4 times until marks line up again if everything is still in line youll be fine 👍
Many many thanks for info,you are great and the first person to ever reply to me ,will do that tomorrow,cheers for your help.
mark lane no problem buddy 👍 👍
many thanks for posting
doc morridge not a problem, thanks for watching and commenting! 👍 👍
Great video! I like the tooth of the new belt, it is a Dayco belt?
Thanks, its a genuine ford supplied belt, dont know who makes them for ford, have fitted other makes of belts before though 👍
Do the water pump need replacing with cambelt
Yes as it will have done the same milage as the cambelt
same engine fiat grande punto 1.4 2007?
1.4 16v petrol engine
Thanks
Hiya sorry to bother you, after doing cam belt i now have engine light on and tick over is a bit low, any ideas please
mark lane sounds like you have either, got the timing slightly out of line or mabie you have unplugged a sensor and forgot to plug it back in? Did you unplug the sensor where the wire goes round the timing cover?
many thanks for reply,i turned engine over about six times and my marks always lined up,i didnt unplug the crank sensor just removed wire from in cover,it is very low on fuel,going to get some tomorrow,and going to try disconnecting battery.
mark lane ok, you did mark up the pullys etc while old belt was on before removal didnt you? An eml light on and poor idle/ running after the change would indicate either an electrical fault from a sensor being knocked off (or not put back on) or the timing being out by say a tooth or two, so if it was ok before but not now it might be worth just slowly and calmly redoing the steps you took and just checking everything is plugged in etc. Failing that id say do the timing again just incase, atleast then you can be 100% sure
on the fiat forum phonic wheel calibration is mentioned as a possible problem too.
mark lane it wont be that the phonic wheel on yours is the crank pulleys jagged tooth part at the back of it, its more likely to be a rebuilding issue or a sensor issue, phonic wheel faults normally are from the magnetic strip kind or caused by a faulty sensor (like the crank sensor coming adrift or startin to go faulty)they also tend to cause misfires or failure to start and yours was fine before the cambelt change i take it? best to retrace your steps and redo it mate
8valve or 16valve?
Hi there! this is an 8v overhead cam system, not sure if they did a 16v- that wasn't in the arbarth 1.4 version ?
Intro music havy later music lot beter!😉
so basically impossible then, unless you happen to be batman, or god.
Daemon Zodiac well then Im batman!!!!!! 😘