How To: Welded Door Frame Install
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- Опубліковано 20 вер 2018
- This is the same method we use to teach and show our crew how to install welded door frames. Please let us know if you have any questions!
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Well done video. As a hollow metal door and frame supplier, we recommend removing the shipping bars from the base before setting the frame and using premeasured and cut wood spreaders instead. One spreader at the bottom and a second spreader in the middle or at the strike location. The head is welded to the jambs and maintain the exact door opening width, however shipping bars are not guaranteed to be welded to the exact door opening width because they are only there to stabilize the frame during shipping.
I always cross string my frames to insure that the frame is on the same plane. It’s a must on double doors.
Soooo. I'm gonna need you to go ahead and come in on Sunday.
Great video- I'm installing 9 of these doors for the first time- your explanation was very through- thank you!
subscribed!
Hopefully it helps!
Wonderful, thank God for people like you who take the time to share such important information. You're a life safer!!!
Thank you! Glad to hear we could help
I would rather use the knock down frames other than the welded frames. Im sure your drywallers are better than some of the contractors out there. I recently installed three knock down frames. I couldnt believe the contractors couldnt get the openings correct. Instead of being 38 1/4 X 85. I had 39 1/4 X 84 1/4. Another one was 38 X 83 1/2. The third one i had to cut through an existing wall because the contractor bdidnt want to. I corrected all the issues that i ran up against but if thry were welded ftames , i would be screwed. I hate to say the quality of contractors out there isnt very good. Years ago i would fabricated the interior walls myself , so i didnt run against these problems. Today a lot of the walls would be subbed out to other companies. They either dont know sizes or dont care. I do enjoy your videos as i find them informing. I try to see if i missed something or maybe someone has an easier way . Im a General Contractor Commercial and residential for over 45 years. Take care
You have fantastic video content on this channel, very well demonstrated.
Peter, Thank you! I really appreciate it.
Thank you very much professor 🙌
Great video. The only thing I would’ve mention is the frame in correspondence to benchmark and shimming
Yea I understand what you mean. BUT then we get ‘into the weeds’ a little. Ppl will then ask how do I shim this? Or I’ve shimmed it and now the door hits at the top, how do I adjust. So maybe that’s another video we make👍
Thanks for ur videos
You’re welcome 👍
I agree to leave the spreader in its easy to verify the top and bottom horizontal measurements. I have been on many commercial jobs and they are in til the door is installed. However when I build medical , the framing plan shows a double stud on each side. The second one when screwed off to drywall locks everything tight. Its good for heavy doors with alot of use.
Perfecto gracias
Good video...that straddling of the ladder would get a saftey write up though. 🤦🏿♂️🤣
Can I get a pass for a controlled environment?😂😂
For the last 3 months I've been fixing doors frames that are out of square, out of plumb or not leveled and when the guys that install the actual doors check them, they place a laser level everywhere and they give us 2mm of error which is stupid because there are probably 300 doors on that floor and we have 4 floors, on top of that all the door frames where installed by piecework on a light gauge 14 ft studs.
So the only thing i would add on this tutorial is; check every single side of the door with a laser level.
Other than that this video is great!
That makes sense. I appreciate the input. 👍
Cudos for the vacuum attachment on your hammer-drill!
no silica for errrybody!
Trying to keep up with the times!👍
You should do a video on how to plumb a door properly, instead of having a flat floor and making it easy. Plumb both sides either with laser or a plumb bob. Would really appreciate it boss! love the videos, been watching them for the last couple days 🦾
We can do that when that type of door comes around for us👍
I can do a video in a couple months. I’ll be installing about 6-8 a day shortly and the floors are off about 1/4”-1/2”
I guess the advantage to the welded frame us being able to install before the drywall guys come in. Are they any more secure than a knock down frame. Looking to put a steel door on my exterior shed I'm building.
Another trick instead of putting drywall as shims use 1/2" conduit and span across the whole at the head with conduit dropped inside the header on both sides the outside diameter of conduit it 5/8"
Will definitely try this. Thanks doe the tip.
Genius.
My little trick is if there is wall lines snapped, you can use your torpedo level to give you the gap for 5/8ths rock.
But then again we set our frames before the studs are up.
Good
do a frame replacement vid to existing finished walls
We can make that happen, we just havent had a remodel of one to do in a while-KL
So your rough opening layout gives you half the stud to screw the door clips to? Or would you say give it less or a full stud showing?
Thanks so much. what type of anchors did you use to attach it to the floor ?
I think they are called sill anchors they are already welded in the frame
Do you have a video on doing that into a wood frame wall? I have a set of double welded frame doors (with steel doors) and want to put a small extension on my garage/shop using those doors instead of an overhead. Any tips there? Anchor the door frame down and frame around it? Thanks.
We don’t at the time, but we can make one if/when it comes up in the field. My guess would be similar type install, hammer drill the bottom and use straps that come with the door, I can’t remember if we used them in this video or not. The straps should straddle the door jamb and go across the face of the stub. A door manufacturer should have these clips.
@@mitchellacoustical3119 Thanks boss!
Watching him drill with his ears right next to loose metal studs makes my head ring 😢
I can’t hear anyway ha
THANKS FOR GREAT VIDEO ///// GUY AT MY JOB SITE HAD IT ALL WRONG///
How much do y’all generally charge to install a commercial door frame in this way?
I'd like to see a video of one of those frames installed in a cinder block wall. After all, what good is a door like that in a sheetrock wall.
We can do this. It’s just a few pins.
u have to drill and dimple the frame first, then use T strap anchors
How would you install the door frame in the building that’s been pre-drywall? Also, how would I screw the feet to the concrete when the drywall and aluminum frame block the ability to get behind the side frames?
You’d have to use a knock down door frame. We have a video on that as well.
Same as one you showed what can happen to a steel door that is binding on the latching side and it wont close?
Hey I'm subscribed, Im having an issue with a commercial sidelight door frame the frame moves from the bottom where the side light glass window is located old fasteners or it wasn't fastened properly I have to fix it can I fix that problem with out removing the door frame and disturbing the drywall tape and wallpaper basicly any way to fasten a doorframe to the floor with out reinstalling it ??????
From the sound of it, it might be your cleats at the bottom of the door on the inside. It would be an L shaped piece that was either not fastened properly or broke loose with wear and tear. You’ll most likely have to cut back the drywall and reattach that clip. Then that leg of the door. You may try and drill a hole in that bottom leg or track and try and run another screw in the track/bottom plate.
@@mitchellacoustical3119 thanks man I ended up putting a gasket in the door frame so the door doesn't slam also pL the bottom of the door frame to the floor it's holding for now I'm waiting to see if it comes back to haunt me , mabe a year two down the road couldn't mess with the painters work all of a sudden there more important then drywallers
@@mustafakhan242 There is a clip that must be shot or screwed down to hold the leg of the door, between the door and the sidelight/window. If it was not done or came loose, you can fix it with out removing the frame. Depending on what type of flooring is going in, it's not too bad. If is is carpet, you're golden, but with tile or VCT, you'll have to be a little more careful. You'll need to make yourself a couple L brackets with one very short side. Take the short side and work it under the frame at the spot between the door and the frame. Do this on both sides so that the door no longer shifts back and forth.
@@SuperUncleRyan thanks man it was supposed too be hardwood so I wasn't worried when the clip dident hold the hard wood would have held up but they changed the hardwood and kept the same carpet just my luck I screwed a tap con in each side of the frame deep enough to cover with puddy luckily it seems to work but you don't wanna crack wholes I'm a steel frame the pl dident work as good I thought it would
Question, Can I install this style Welded Door Frame to a wood framed opening?
You would probably need a knock down frame. We have a video for that. Also in that instance you may have to pad your header down 1-1/2-2”. But check out our knock down door frame video
Subscribed, Liked + 1
Nice video ,is this considered as Face Welded , back welded . Full profile Welded Sir?
Is this 18 16 14 ?
and what is the size of the opening for 3-0 welded framed door . also , for 3-0 what is that refereed to ? is that the spread bar ? inside door frame , out side frame or the slab door ?
Thank you
=) Like+2
3-0 is referenced to a 3’ (36”) door. The Welded opening is usually 40”, you add the door 36”, plus 2” each side for the frame.
What are drilling through when going into the floor?? Are there Tabasco in the welded frame?? I assume there are holes so you can use the hammer drill??? I’d like to be able to see. Many thanks.
Yea there is a clip that is welded to the frame with holes on it. Sorry we didn’t get that shot.
@@mitchellacoustical3119 I’m being asked to build 3 walls with metal studs under a drop ceiling. How does the top wall channel get tied in if it’s a drop ceiling?? Thanks.
When a window is included does the bottom welded part go across the r/o??
We’ll those standards we break out would still be there for the legs. The window ‘side light’ would still be the same r/o. You may have to make your opening bigger for the 3 or 4’ window and then shim accordingly.
Hi, I have been install my steel jamb and my floor is not done yet, and I think my door jamb is to deep for my flooring is that okay?. Or do i need to cut the exist steel jamb so that it wont be underneath the floor....
You can shim them up to have the flooring go underneath. A lot of our commercial applications will cut carpet to the door or tile and then grout it in.
Thank you so much..
How would you remove a welded unit with a window in a finished Sheetrock room? Thanks
cut all around the window frame ..above the top header track and below the sil track . cut though both vertical studs on each side of window then cut the drywall ..then pull whole unit out and then put in some metal stud to repair the framing and then sheet rock it .. make a line 2 inches bigger than the frame basically and pull the whole unit out ..
Shuda shown this video in the correct order like the door jamb then frame wall aroumd it
You can make your own video doing exactly that👍
@@mitchellacoustical3119 a condescending reply deserves no subscription. TY 4 showing your true demeanor.
What if it's like a tin building and had been a no frames around doors
I'm assuming that we're talking about an exterior door here. What I would do is measure the frame you want installed, mark it, cut the opening that size, then you'll have to trim around it and set the door back a few inches so that water doesn't get in. That's my best guess without seeing it. -KL
Those spreader bars are for shipping purposes. Not installation.
How to remove you door bottom support
You cut it with a grinder in the middle then bend back and forth or break the welds in the corner w a cold chisel
Thanks
What about a welded window frame?
We actually have a few of these to install. I’ll do a video.
They just go in with the clips and drywall
Welded frames = Studs first, Welded Frames second, Drywall last
Knock Down (KD) Frame = Studs first, Drywall second, Frame last.
Welded Frames
Rough opening width is 4-1/2" more than opening size 3/0 = 40-1/2"
Rough opening height is 2-1/2" more than opening size 7/0 = 86-1/2"
Knock Down (KD) Frame
Rough opening width is 2" more than opening size 3/0 = 38"
Rough opening height is 1" more than opening size 7/0 = 85"
My dude this is so much extra steps just to put this welded frame in , there is only three steps needed
1 check rough opening for plumb level and size including the floor which is most important make adjustments as needed
2 add drywall fillers as needed and center frame in opening
3 use 1 foot 3/16 concrete bit to pre drill for anchor at bottom tabs using flanged tapcoon or approved equal use 1 foot bit extension with hex bit to get behind studs at an angle to secure anchors theses six inch frames I can set one in about 8 minutes each without moving any framing
Go ahead and make your own video👍
People that leave those welded in spacers in the bottom don't know how to install one of those frames correctly at all. Those so called spacers are welded in and they don't just come out when the drywall is in. They bend the frame where the weld is or they tear the frame and they are a gigantic pain in the butt to remove. Cut them out with a cutoff wheel and grind the weld off before install. Then measure the throat of the frame and the width of the door opening and cut a removeable spreader out of osb. Or don't and just leave the welded spreaders in place and end up extremely pissed when trying to remove them. Oh yeah, don't forget that the welded in spreaders are rarely cut the right length so the bottom of the frame is narrower than the top so the door won't close at the bottom because it is too tight. Good luck 😉
text book commercial door 101...shipping bars are for shipping purposes only.
If you bend the spreaders side-to-side then yes, you can damage the frame. If you cut the center of the spreader then bend up and down instead using the leverage you will not damage the frame. The only reason you should cut them off before installation is if the width is incorrect, which the fault of the manufacturer but the responsibility of the installer.
???
I did it with the Woodglut plans.
Why didn't u take out the welded spreaders before installing
because that stabilizes the legs of the frame, its really easy to mess up the reveal of the door by busting those off first, the only time i do this is if im replacing an old frame with a new one. which is much harder with finished walls already in place. I do these daily at Caesars palace in the back of house areas, minus the welded brackets
@@PokemonTenLV I do doors everyday usually I take them out first. But I mainly do a lot of replacement sometimes I do new ones and I still take them out first
Can u show replacement door frames and/or show how to adjust doors if the don't quite fit
@@Beastmode-eb2sn is it metal stud?
@@Beastmode-eb2sn the best method for me is to cut about 10 inches of wall out around the door frame on both sides of the wall so you can access the king studs.
You did it wrong.
Can you please elaborate on how so? Or just shoot us a link to your video on welded door frame installs if that's easier.
@@mitchellacoustical3119 Just sarcasm, bro. Great job!
John Miller ha! Thanks man, can’t wait for that sarcasm font to be an option😂
I do this for a living carry those all over a 700 unit complex man feel like the bitch
Yea there’s been times we’re had to take out doors and frames to put in Rico frames. I feel your pain
How do you remove the factory welded piece on the bottom of the door after install?
We use a cold chisel after the door is set
@@mitchellacoustical3119 Cool thanks, that's what I was thinking.