How to Install a Steel Door Frame in Masonry Construction | Steel Door Institute
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- Опубліковано 3 чер 2014
- In this video, the Steel Door Institute (SDI) demonstrates how to install a steel door frame into masonry construction.
Other installation & troubleshooting guides can be found in English and Spanish at:
www.steeldoor.org/installation/
For doors and frames that are built to last, always ensure they are made by SDI member manufacturers listed here:
www.steeldoor.org/members/
Jump to:
01:10 Plan for the flooring
02:13 Types of frames
02:40 Install base anchors
03:18 Stand up the frame and align spreader
03:40 Set the frame plumb, level, and square
05:32 Block laying begins
06:00 Insert wire anchors
07:11 Completing the installation
See the right way to install a steel door: • How to Install a Comme... - Навчання та стиль
very good Installation technique ... thanks for your efforts.
Thank you so much for this video. For those of us who happen to get to these technologies now only - value this opportunity to learn so much - you would not believe!
Very informative video, well presented. Thank you
Very informative. Thank you for sharing.
This helped a lot. Thanks for sharing
SDI's your white paper "the Risk of Grouting Steel Frames" also says grouting is usually not necessary for masonry construction. However if done properly it will not cause any issues w/ the frame. But when not coordinated properly a thin slurry is often used & that excess water often causes rust.
Thanks for the information, its very useful..!
I appreciate your video. Thanks 🙏 have learnt a lot
Great job guy's
Very neat!
good work
Very nice
I did not know that the mason also installed the door frames, this order seems odd to me, but I don't know any better. thanks for this.
Thank you.
yea great job
Good vid ,sorry to see the OSHA bust on the mason's backwards hard hat in your professionally done video , oh well ,but I have a great tip ,since I have installed thousands if masonry frames ,when the frame is set ,I always install the rubber mutes ,or silencers ,as the mortar or grout added will seep out the silencer holes ,and drilling will be required later to install the silencers ,I remove them when I remove the braces ,as they will interfere with the painting of the frames ,but saves time and labor !! I also keep 4'x8' x 1/2" thick styrofoam sheets on hand to cut into stop width strips ,and apply with silicone caulking where any surface mounted hardware re- reinforcements are ,this does not impede the frame grouting ,and saves your drill bits when hardware time comes !!
While I don't know OSHA codes to the letter to know for sure if this is a violation or not, I do know that some hard hats are made specifically to be worn backwards as forward brims can interfere in tight spaces and some workers would prefer their neck shielded from the sun when working outdoors.
@@bricklayer621 wrong
@@nunyabusiness896 wrong
@@mikefournier8263 Eat sht fcker I've seen them with my own eyes.
What if the wall is build and the original door frame was wood ?Do they make "replacement" frames that are not new construction ?
im building a workshop in my yard thanks for advuse
👍🏼
My understanding from reviewing SDI literature is that the mortar...often incorrectly labelled on drawings as "grout"...is there primarily for sound deadening purposes, NOT anchorage integrity or fire resistance. In most contemporary buildings, interior partitions that include CMU that are located in "finished" areas usually include furred out gypsum wallboard and are thus "hybrid" in character. In those cases is it safe to assume that mortaring-in of the frame should not be done and that another type of anchor should be used? My understanding is that SDI is against the use of "grout" in any type of installation where the mortar or grout cavity communicates with any other partition cavity with gypsum wallboard materials.
Grout is usually troweled into frames while the wall is being built around the frame. For CMU walls, the T anchor or wire anchor between the blocks is what secures the frame when the grout or mortar dries.
Frames are not required to be grouted to be fire rated. Sound deadening can be increased with the filling of a frame but other products can also accomplish this.
Gypsum walls should never be grouted. Contractors pump the grout into a frame, which we specifically prohibit in standard ANSI/SDI A250.8, because it is too loose or wet and the moisture will propagate to the gypsum wall like a sponge attracts water. So you are correct that SDI is against grout being used in drywall/gypsum construction.
@@SteelDoorInstitute your white paper "the Risk of Grouting Steel Frames" also says grouting is usually not necessary for masonry construction. However if done properly it will not cause any issues w/ the frame. A thin slurry is often used & that excess water often causes rust.
If the contractor finish the mason block first, how to install the bracket that set on the floor??
I´m a little confused - do I have to check for plum, level and square?
Yes. And brace it off securely with 2x4s. And spacers between jams to keep them from being pushed to close together
Lol
Put the hardware side of the frame flush to the wall face. Not centered in the block.
So door can open to 180 degrees to the wall.
I know that this is just a demo, but a wrap around frame would be a much better choice in this case. The finished base whether it's rubber or wood hates having to return less than an inch. It's much better to run straight into the frame if you want the adhesive to keep it on.
Where can I get these door frames at??
These are hollow metal frames and can be purchased from most door distributors.
What's the purpose of anchor?
Juan Dela Cruz I won't even justify myself with a response to that
Anyone know how to remove one of these frames from an old house?
Out of curiosity, why would you want to remove the most durable door frame that money can buy?
@@khabuda because mine is surrounding a large wardrobe, with large crossbeams across it for holding the doors and a shelf, and I want to modify the wardrobe. As great as these are, they present large and difficult problems for even basic modifications.
Those shipping bars are always left on when ever we're doing masonry work and sometime we have to take them off ourselves.
Unfortunately, that's not uncommon. They should always be removed prior to installation so a spreader can be used to help ensure plumb, level, and square.
Don’t remove the bar till the end before installing the saddle
这种安装方式，太老旧了！
You keep saying check the installation for plum. You never did a video on how to correct it if the door moves away from plum.
Umm I don't think I've ever seen a mason install door frames
I also put my level up to the screen to make sure it was level, plum, and square, head neck and chest !!!! ☠