I'm about to start a rebuild on one of these glorious engines after a lift bolt incident...!!! Thank you for some straight talking, no nonsense, engineering talk 👍👍
@@pabs6275 so I've herd and seen through forums, clubs and UA-cam that preface lift bolts ware out easily and "lift" becomes temperamental. The tips of the bolt score and no longer work as they should. So I decided to change mine as many do.....when removing the bolt on the exhaust side (I think) it had snapped off....hence "lift bolt incident" lol
There is no "lift" side. The valve lash is measured between the cam follower and the shim on top of the valve. It will be the same no matter which profile is active because it's not measured at the cam lobe but at the valve. Set intake valve lash between 0.013 and 0.015" if you spend a lot of time in the higher rpm range to avoid wiping the cam. If you attempt to measure valve lash between the cam lobe and the follower, you will get a false measurement. So, to be clear, you measure the valve lash between the valve shim and the follower while prying gently on up on the follower to compress the slipper plate spring. The roller will be in direct contact with the cam lobe if you are doing it correctly.
@@3dw3dwI have some marks on my cam lobes but with my nail test is smooth from side to side. Also on my valves clearance check the clearances is 0.15mm. Is this dangerous for my camshaft?
@DimosTs192 that is about 0.006" if you spend a significant amount of time at wide open throttle over 6500 rpm then YES! You will be replacing the cam and the rockers real soon. You will want to make that clearance a minimum of 0.010" but I recommend 0.013" - 0.015". For you, that's roughly 0.28mm to 0.38mm. I'm not in the metric system so double check the math. It's an approximation on my part, I didn't actually do the math. The more you flog it the bigger clearance you should have. Intake valve stems get longer the more you heat them. The harder you push your engine the hotter ther intake valves will get and they will close the clearance and wipe your cam. If you never use the high rpm profile of your cam you will never have any worry.
@3dw3dw the toyota specs is 0.08mm-0.18mm. Are you sure mate? My mechanic says is very good, im confused now. I use lift almost every day but 2,3 times, no on track days or aggressive downshifting etc. And I have 65.000 miles now. Also use good oils every 2.000 miles and I'm carefully with the car.
@@DimoS... you just go ahead and do whatever you want. The valve stem is a rod of metal. The stem expands (lengthens) as it is heated reducing working clearance. The harder you drive the hotter rhe valve will get. The hotter it gets the longer the valve stem will grow necessitating more lash. I really don't care what you do to your car. As I previously stated, if you never Rev your engine you will never have anything to worry. If you flog it like I do mine and you don't open that lash, get ready to spend a lot of money. Am I sure? I am $18,000 worth of absolute certain that everything I've told you is true. Again, do whatever you want. It's your money Watch my videos and see what happens when the lack of lash holds the valve open.
Hi Dan, Any insight on preventing the dreaded high-lift lobe wipe on the intake camshaft? Aftermarket camshaft hardness? Additional oil shower tube? Poor oil quality/viscosity? Too tight valve clearance on the intake side?
0.1mm to .16mm clearance on the intake cam is too tight. Already had a wiped cam and two broken rocker arms... Have you checked your camshaft for damage lately? Going with 0.27mm to 0.33mm.
@@track__dan8755 Checking between small cam lobe and small cam lobe rocker roller only. First clearances taken with only the big cam lobe shims installed. Second clearances taken with only the small cam lobe shims installed. Engine is cold. I'm curious to know if you've checked to see if your intake cam is damaged lately.
The cause for wiped intake camshaft is tight clearence? Why some 2zzge have over 250k miles and it's all OK with this weird, and some with 50k miles have big wear?
@DimosTs192 the reason some never wipe a cam is those engines never Rev above 6k rpm. Give me that same car for 3 months and factory spec intake valve lash and I will wipe that cam. He is correct. The cams wipe because factory spec valve lash is too tight. I set mine between 0.013" and 0.015" and I have nearly 200k on my lotus.
@hiblendmedia only check valve lash between the follower and the shim while prying up gently on the follower (to compress the slipper plate spring). It's the only way to get an accurate reading from both valves in each set.
well in the comments you said only install 1 shim at a time and check with low lift cam for a thorough job . But in your video you checked it with both shims in . If 1 of the 2 shims is too loose how are you going to know ? IF 1 is too tight the other is too loose your not going know which is which if your checking both at once . Right ? or what ?
Correct. I took a shortcut (not completely accurate) and checked both shims were in contact with the rocker by eye and so checked both at the same time. A more accurate way would be one shim at a time👍🏻
If you are checking valve lash the correct way, you can do them while they're both installed. Check valve lash with the feeler between the shim and the follower while gently prying up on the follower to compress the slipper plate spring.
Hey i was wondering if you can lend a hand. i just fixed a broken lift bolt. i had to remove the intake cam and push the rockershaft out to remove the broken bolt. everything is back together but the oil screen behind the oil control valve. it has cutouts in the screen i can't remember the orientation of the screen. Can you please tell me witch way it fits in or does it even matter?
Hey, sorry to hear about your issues! I assume you mean the rotational orientation? In which case, I don’t think it matters. The two little cutouts in the screen don’t line up with anything in the housing, I think they just provide the required flex to be able to insert and remove the screen with ease.
@@track__dan8755 Awesome! ty so much for responding, been looking at vids and forums to see if there was a certain way it went in. Now i just have to wait for the rtv to set up and hopefully Lift is back on the menu! Thanks again
Am in the process of reassembling mine after an overheating incident and find all the high lift valves have no clearance while the others are a smidge loose!! How was yours?
@@track__dan8755 With a feeler gauge between cam and rocker. I can compress the plunger and get a gauge in but don't I need clearance with it in its unloaded state?
@@martykath4427 no, there is no spec for this measurement since the pad is spring loaded. Only check clearance between the small cam and the rocker. To do a thorough job, test each rocker with only 1 shim installed at a time to make sure both valves under each rocker have the correct clearance.
@@track__dan8755 This has got me stumped. so are you saying remove the hi lift shim to be sure the measured gap is correct . Can see the logic with that. When vtec engages won't clearance be needed to seal the valve on its seat. Its not a hydraulic style of tappet.??
@@martykath4427 no, each rocker sits on a pair of valves. Ideally, you want to make sure the shim on each valve is sized correctly. The only way to do this is to remove one shim from each pair, check the low cam clearance, and then switch the shims and check it again.
Be careful as well, they can be installed in the wrong position. If installed in the wrong position there will be no control of cam timing and there will be a code. There are multiple holes in the rube that the weird little bolt can go through.
not the most accurate method for checking the valve clearance on the 2zz....i know the manual says to do it this way, but its generic. the true way to check is at the shim, between the shim and rocker finger at each valve location. if you look at the first celica manual it shows this way. measuring your way how do you know each valve is being lifted the same amount???
This is very true. There has always been controversy over the right way to do it given the manual changed in the early 00's. I agree the approach you mention is the ideal since it checks each valve, rather than in pairs. The only issue is getting feeling gauges in, ideally 90 degree feelers would be used. I did check (by eye) that contact between the rocker arm and each valve pair was even, but checking clearance at that point would definitely be more accurate. Noted for next time!
There are a lot of people saying the same thing very often and very loudly with no engineering facts to back up their claims regarding wiped cams. I will likely be drowned out by them, but I'm going to say something different anyways. I'll begin with a question. Who has had an exhaust cam wiped? Nobody. Agreed? So same oil, same oil temp, and no wiping exhaust cam... Hmmmmm So what is the difference? And what's really causing the wiping? The difference is valve lash spec... The intake valve lengthens more than the engineers imagined when we spend lots of time on high cam and we have insufficient WORKING valve lash. If you want to be done replacing cam shafts, stop using factory spec or 0.004-0.007" and adjust lash to 0.010"+ on the intake. Spec is simply too tight. Ignore logic if you want, but remember that I told you so next time you are replacing an intake cam and followers, because if you set lash to spec, you will be replacing a cam and followers again.
question what would the clearance be on the exhaust side if the intake side is .010” i keep reading about the factory spec will break 2 rocker arms. my intake and exhaust clearances are .006-.010” and .012-.018”
@9kia8 it will not "break" a FOLLOWER (a 2zz does not have a rocker, it has a follower) per se. The cam lobe will get wiped, and thus, the cam follower slipper plate will also be wiped. The exhaust valve lash should be exactly as you stated. I set all my intake lash between 0.013" and 0.015". I haven't had any more trouble. I still have both factory front oil coolers and nearly 200k miles on this car. 90k on these cams with this setup. My engine sees a lot of time on the high cam profile. A lot more than most. If you never run full throttle above 6k rpm, you'll never have a problem. If you spend half of your time above 6k full throttle, set the intake valve lash to the same spec as the exhaust, and it'll be fine.
@@3dw3dw ok i have the 2zzge in my 2005 toyota matrix and spun a rod bearing on cylinder 1 with over 294xxx original miles and my father in law rebuilt it but he says the drive train is really nosy with the specs i provided
@9kia8 a little excess valve lash will make some ticking noise. However, that slight noise is less expensive than what happens when the cam is wiped. Again if you almost never keep the rpms high for extended periods of time, there is no need to worry. The wiped cam lobe issue only occurs in vehicles that get flogged for extended periods enough to heat the valve to the point where we run out of lash. I doubt seriously that you drive your matrix the way we drive our Lotus Elises. If you drive normal like you should on public roads you do not need any modification.
I understand. I'll try to keep it simple for Google translate. If you measure at the cam you are only measuring the valve with the least lash. You would not be measuring both. If you measure between the shim and follower/rocker, you get an accurate measurement for both valves. Yes you will have to bend your feelers. I know what toyota says about specification. And if you never use high cam profile they are correct. If you spend any significant amount of time on the high cam profile and you keep toyota spec valve lash... YOU WILL WIPE YOUR CAM AND FOLLOWERS. I don't care if you believe me. F*ck around and find out for yourself. A smart person can learn from his mistakes. A wise person can learn from someone else's. You can try to teach a fool over and over, but he will never learn. Do whatever you want.
I'm about to start a rebuild on one of these glorious engines after a lift bolt incident...!!! Thank you for some straight talking, no nonsense, engineering talk 👍👍
Good luck! If you need any help give me a shout!
What happened with the lift bolt if you don't mind elaborating! I haven't changed mine
@@pabs6275 so I've herd and seen through forums, clubs and UA-cam that preface lift bolts ware out easily and "lift" becomes temperamental. The tips of the bolt score and no longer work as they should. So I decided to change mine as many do.....when removing the bolt on the exhaust side (I think) it had snapped off....hence "lift bolt incident" lol
cleanest shop I have ever seen.
Thank you! This was very helpful in my Elise engine rebuild!
Love your video's mate.
Thanks mate, appreciate the feedback!
This was amazing video thank you. 2zz legend
Truly excellent video. Thank you.
Good job, well done.
How do you check the “lift” side valve clearance
There is no "lift" side. The valve lash is measured between the cam follower and the shim on top of the valve. It will be the same no matter which profile is active because it's not measured at the cam lobe but at the valve.
Set intake valve lash between 0.013 and 0.015" if you spend a lot of time in the higher rpm range to avoid wiping the cam.
If you attempt to measure valve lash between the cam lobe and the follower, you will get a false measurement.
So, to be clear, you measure the valve lash between the valve shim and the follower while prying gently on up on the follower to compress the slipper plate spring. The roller will be in direct contact with the cam lobe if you are doing it correctly.
@@3dw3dwI have some marks on my cam lobes but with my nail test is smooth from side to side. Also on my valves clearance check the clearances is 0.15mm. Is this dangerous for my camshaft?
@DimosTs192 that is about 0.006" if you spend a significant amount of time at wide open throttle over 6500 rpm then YES! You will be replacing the cam and the rockers real soon. You will want to make that clearance a minimum of 0.010" but I recommend 0.013" - 0.015". For you, that's roughly 0.28mm to 0.38mm. I'm not in the metric system so double check the math. It's an approximation on my part, I didn't actually do the math. The more you flog it the bigger clearance you should have. Intake valve stems get longer the more you heat them. The harder you push your engine the hotter ther intake valves will get and they will close the clearance and wipe your cam.
If you never use the high rpm profile of your cam you will never have any worry.
@3dw3dw the toyota specs is 0.08mm-0.18mm. Are you sure mate? My mechanic says is very good, im confused now.
I use lift almost every day but 2,3 times, no on track days or aggressive downshifting etc. And I have 65.000 miles now. Also use good oils every 2.000 miles and I'm carefully with the car.
@@DimoS... you just go ahead and do whatever you want. The valve stem is a rod of metal. The stem expands (lengthens) as it is heated reducing working clearance. The harder you drive the hotter rhe valve will get. The hotter it gets the longer the valve stem will grow necessitating more lash. I really don't care what you do to your car. As I previously stated, if you never Rev your engine you will never have anything to worry. If you flog it like I do mine and you don't open that lash, get ready to spend a lot of money.
Am I sure? I am $18,000 worth of absolute certain that everything I've told you is true.
Again, do whatever you want. It's your money
Watch my videos and see what happens when the lack of lash holds the valve open.
Why torque the cams down if they have to be removed to install head bolts? Do the cams need to be removed to install head bolts?
If you don’t torque them down, would the valve clearance check be accurate?
And yes, they do have to be removed again for the head bolts.
Hi Dan, Any insight on preventing the dreaded high-lift lobe wipe on the intake camshaft? Aftermarket camshaft hardness? Additional oil shower tube? Poor oil quality/viscosity? Too tight valve clearance on the intake side?
0.1mm to .16mm clearance on the intake cam is too tight. Already had a wiped cam and two broken rocker arms... Have you checked your camshaft for damage lately? Going with 0.27mm to 0.33mm.
Are you checking between the rocker and camshaft, or rocker and valve shim? For the former, the oem spec is 0.08-0.18mm on the intake (cold).
@@track__dan8755 Checking between small cam lobe and small cam lobe rocker roller only. First clearances taken with only the big cam lobe shims installed. Second clearances taken with only the small cam lobe shims installed. Engine is cold. I'm curious to know if you've checked to see if your intake cam is damaged lately.
The cause for wiped intake camshaft is tight clearence? Why some 2zzge have over 250k miles and it's all OK with this weird, and some with 50k miles have big wear?
@DimosTs192 the reason some never wipe a cam is those engines never Rev above 6k rpm. Give me that same car for 3 months and factory spec intake valve lash and I will wipe that cam. He is correct. The cams wipe because factory spec valve lash is too tight. I set mine between 0.013" and 0.015" and I have nearly 200k on my lotus.
@hiblendmedia only check valve lash between the follower and the shim while prying up gently on the follower (to compress the slipper plate spring). It's the only way to get an accurate reading from both valves in each set.
Really cool video, very informative!!
Thanks Mark!
well in the comments you said only install 1 shim at a time and check with low lift cam for a thorough job . But in your video you checked it with both shims in . If 1 of the 2 shims is too loose how are you going to know ? IF 1 is too tight the other is too loose your not going know which is which if your checking both at once . Right ? or what ?
Correct. I took a shortcut (not completely accurate) and checked both shims were in contact with the rocker by eye and so checked both at the same time. A more accurate way would be one shim at a time👍🏻
If you are checking valve lash the correct way, you can do them while they're both installed.
Check valve lash with the feeler between the shim and the follower while gently prying up on the follower to compress the slipper plate spring.
Hey bro.. would like to know.. how do I remove the freeze plug under the 2zz cylinder head without removing it from the engine..
Hey i was wondering if you can lend a hand. i just fixed a broken lift bolt. i had to remove the intake cam and push the rockershaft out to remove the broken bolt. everything is back together but the oil screen behind the oil control valve. it has cutouts in the screen i can't remember the orientation of the screen. Can you please tell me witch way it fits in or does it even matter?
Hey, sorry to hear about your issues! I assume you mean the rotational orientation? In which case, I don’t think it matters. The two little cutouts in the screen don’t line up with anything in the housing, I think they just provide the required flex to be able to insert and remove the screen with ease.
@@track__dan8755 Awesome! ty so much for responding, been looking at vids and forums to see if there was a certain way it went in. Now i just have to wait for the rtv to set up and hopefully Lift is back on the menu! Thanks again
How degree vvtl open on? How duration vvtl open on?
The lift? It’s not based on degree, it’s based on RPM and when the oil control valve sends pressure to the lift mechanism.
Am in the process of reassembling mine after an overheating incident and find all the high lift valves have no clearance while the others are a smidge loose!! How was yours?
Hi, how are you checking the clearance on your high lift cams? I wasn't aware this was possible?
@@track__dan8755 With a feeler gauge between cam and rocker. I can compress the plunger and get a gauge in but don't I need clearance with it in its unloaded state?
@@martykath4427 no, there is no spec for this measurement since the pad is spring loaded. Only check clearance between the small cam and the rocker. To do a thorough job, test each rocker with only 1 shim installed at a time to make sure both valves under each rocker have the correct clearance.
@@track__dan8755 This has got me stumped. so are you saying remove the hi lift shim to be sure the measured gap is correct . Can see the logic with that. When vtec engages won't clearance be needed to seal the valve on its seat. Its not a hydraulic style of tappet.??
@@martykath4427 no, each rocker sits on a pair of valves. Ideally, you want to make sure the shim on each valve is sized correctly. The only way to do this is to remove one shim from each pair, check the low cam clearance, and then switch the shims and check it again.
thank you so muc
What side do rhe rocker shafts slide in from?
From the non-timing chain side, where the oil control valve etc is.
Be careful as well, they can be installed in the wrong position. If installed in the wrong position there will be no control of cam timing and there will be a code. There are multiple holes in the rube that the weird little bolt can go through.
What brand are the shims you use for valve clearance ? Where do i get them?
They are from Toyota directly.
not the most accurate method for checking the valve clearance on the 2zz....i know the manual says to do it this way, but its generic. the true way to check is at the shim, between the shim and rocker finger at each valve location. if you look at the first celica manual it shows this way. measuring your way how do you know each valve is being lifted the same amount???
This is very true. There has always been controversy over the right way to do it given the manual changed in the early 00's. I agree the approach you mention is the ideal since it checks each valve, rather than in pairs. The only issue is getting feeling gauges in, ideally 90 degree feelers would be used.
I did check (by eye) that contact between the rocker arm and each valve pair was even, but checking clearance at that point would definitely be more accurate. Noted for next time!
@Tiago Blanquet that makes sense to me!
There are a lot of people saying the same thing very often and very loudly with no engineering facts to back up their claims regarding wiped cams.
I will likely be drowned out by them, but I'm going to say something different anyways.
I'll begin with a question.
Who has had an exhaust cam wiped?
Nobody. Agreed?
So same oil, same oil temp, and no wiping exhaust cam... Hmmmmm
So what is the difference? And what's really causing the wiping?
The difference is valve lash spec...
The intake valve lengthens more than the engineers imagined when we spend lots of time on high cam and we have insufficient WORKING valve lash.
If you want to be done replacing cam shafts, stop using factory spec or 0.004-0.007" and adjust lash to 0.010"+ on the intake.
Spec is simply too tight.
Ignore logic if you want, but remember that I told you so next time you are replacing an intake cam and followers, because if you set lash to spec, you will be replacing a cam and followers again.
question what would the clearance be on the exhaust side if the intake side is .010” i keep reading about the factory spec will break 2 rocker arms. my intake and exhaust clearances are .006-.010” and .012-.018”
@9kia8 it will not "break" a FOLLOWER (a 2zz does not have a rocker, it has a follower) per se. The cam lobe will get wiped, and thus, the cam follower slipper plate will also be wiped. The exhaust valve lash should be exactly as you stated. I set all my intake lash between 0.013" and 0.015". I haven't had any more trouble. I still have both factory front oil coolers and nearly 200k miles on this car. 90k on these cams with this setup. My engine sees a lot of time on the high cam profile. A lot more than most. If you never run full throttle above 6k rpm, you'll never have a problem. If you spend half of your time above 6k full throttle, set the intake valve lash to the same spec as the exhaust, and it'll be fine.
@@3dw3dw ok i have the 2zzge in my 2005 toyota matrix and spun a rod bearing on cylinder 1 with over 294xxx original miles and my father in law rebuilt it but he says the drive train is really nosy with the specs i provided
@9kia8 a little excess valve lash will make some ticking noise. However, that slight noise is less expensive than what happens when the cam is wiped. Again if you almost never keep the rpms high for extended periods of time, there is no need to worry. The wiped cam lobe issue only occurs in vehicles that get flogged for extended periods enough to heat the valve to the point where we run out of lash.
I doubt seriously that you drive your matrix the way we drive our Lotus Elises. If you drive normal like you should on public roads you do not need any modification.
last question are you running factory cams or performance cams?!?
Ещё было бы понятно😁
I understand. I'll try to keep it simple for Google translate. If you measure at the cam you are only measuring the valve with the least lash. You would not be measuring both. If you measure between the shim and follower/rocker, you get an accurate measurement for both valves. Yes you will have to bend your feelers.
I know what toyota says about specification. And if you never use high cam profile they are correct.
If you spend any significant amount of time on the high cam profile and you keep toyota spec valve lash... YOU WILL WIPE YOUR CAM AND FOLLOWERS.
I don't care if you believe me. F*ck around and find out for yourself.
A smart person can learn from his mistakes.
A wise person can learn from someone else's.
You can try to teach a fool over and over, but he will never learn.
Do whatever you want.