Man after watching many different engine tear down videos with folks using a wide array of expensive air tools, feels great to watch a tear down with simple tools. Makes everything feel a lot more accessible. Thanks for making this
"Now be carefull not to damage anything" throws crank position plate, timing chain guide and sprocket, pistons etc etc :P Great and informative video though :D well done
Thanks for the upload. I just tore down my motor with ease because of this video. Parts currently soaking in Diesel and with a wire brush have come up great. Discovered heavy scoring on the piston skirts and cylinder walls though so lucky this engine is just one to muck around with and isnt going into anything
Itd cost about the same to sleeve it as it would to buy another motor and then you'd have an engine that could stand much more HP if you decided to get crazy with it. I'd sleeve it before I'd buy another block
You are absolutely right, but I have read about these engines not liking sleeves and sometimes fail because of them. The reason I bought another motor is because I think the MMC technology is cool and it's something that makes the motor/car unique so in mind I want to stay "true" to it. It's not really practical and may not make sense, but if I was trying to be practical or make sense I wouldn't have a project car haha.
Some experience is what I need when it comes to building motors and this is it no lie I have never seen the internals of a motor but I understand how it works though and it is very interesting to see someone else pull something apart over a screen😂
Just throw yourself at it, that's what I did. I was a bit negligent in this video but once I do an actual engine build you'll see that I pay much more attention.
Great video and very informative. Gravity & Murphy in the same room on camera never go well. Head bolts are INTERNAL triple-square fasteners on my engine. I had to buy a special long set to get through the cam holes. And the sounds when loosening made my skin crawl.......EEEECH.....EEEEECH, thought they would shear before yielding......grrr. I HATE stretch/TTL bolts! Mr. P
Bro, just found this and it's a brilliant video. Don't even have a k24 bit gonna watch your video on it anyway as this is so well done. Hope you keep this up, deserve so many more subs!
@@IGDesigns Hello IG Designs, Shimming is a little crazy on the 2zz due to the cam-rocker for VV-L. Plan to have shim kit as you will need it. The manual I used "2001 Celica" has no value. Rockers must be "balanced" 1st, then measured at low-speed cam lobe (as in manual), then calculated/reset for correct clearance and balance. The shims from Toyota are $5-8 each and require 8 that you will not use unless you want to pull the cam for each cylinder. I have heard that a GOOD machine shop can grind seats, valves, and machine each valve to keep the original shims......but I find it hard to believe and possible more than re-shimming. ???? I am stupid/lucky and gave my head to MWR (never got my original shims back though paid for 16 @ $8 per). Still saved money and have no use for old shims. MR. P
@@LSmiata Thanks for the insight. I am a bit nervous about the whole shimming process, I've read a bit about it and it seems like a pain. To be honest I haven't worried about it too much because I have a long way to go before I get there.
Hello IG Designs, From watching your videos, I believe you are fully capable of the valve lash job, its just that you need so many shims to get the base-line first, then the final shims. When I got my head back for the machine shop and added the cams, I had "negative valve lash", meaning that I could not get any feeler gauge under the low cam profile rocker. To my understanding, after a valve job, it is a 3 step process. 1) Balance your rockers per cylinder so that there is no gap when lightly pushed (measure gap on valve that has gap, compare to "high" shim (no gap) and adjust so the rocker sits evenly on both valves). 2) If measured clearance is negative (no clearance), must reduce the shim size greatly (shorter shim) and equally to get base-line for final shim number. 3) Using math, adjust each shim to desired clearance. NOTE: Do research. I took my head back to MWR b/c the intake lash was too high. After talking with them and doing research, this is common to prevent high wear on intake cam and rocker followers. My intake cam and one of the rockers was badly worn and needed to be replaced. Hope this helps, Mr. P
Just ripped a 2zz from a junk car and it doesn’t seem to have as deep gouges as yours and I think I might’ve lucked out. Is there any way I can send you some pictures, other than making a video, to get a second opinion?
Should've unlocked the VVT Cam Gear with compressed air before removing. I personally prefer removing those factory camgear 5 sided bolts with regular high grade hex bolts and a little loctite so I can take apart the gear and unlock it easier without air. Also allows you to clean the inside of the gear.
@@IGDesigns I appreciate the detailed engine removal process non the less. Helped me get thru my first engine removal. Curious were you gonna follow any particular guide when you were about to refresh the 2zz or do you already know what to do? Wanted to see if I can follow the guide as well.
So in the grand scheme of things, if a cylinder/cylinder wall is worn out of spec or damaged, it will not be able to maintain compression so it won't produce power when the gas is ignited. Sometimes this can be repaired by having the block machined, but this can't be done because of the special lining on the cylinder walls of the 2zz. In Toyota's manual it even says to scrap the block if it is out of spec.
@@IGDesigns dang thats a bust i have a 2zz-ge but i havent opened her up so idk if i have it, is it from normal wear and tear or from running her hard?
I'm considering buying an mr2 spyder as one just came up at a low price but I'm not sure since I'd have to put the 2zz in and 6 sp manual and get a hard top as well but this would be expensive and a pain to do so I'm looking at every video trying to decide what to do. Anyway keep the video coming interested to see what happens
You're right, it is expensive much l Iike every other car project. As fad as a 2zz swap it's one of the easiest swaps you'll come by. These cars are harder and harder to find as time goes on. They small, lightweight, and nimble. They're like a slightly softened lotus even though a lot of people right them off. It really depends what you're looking for in car. Good luck with your decision!
@@IGDesigns well I've got the cash to buy one at the 3.5k asking price but with the cost of a 2zz and i want a hard top for it I'm just not sure I'm currently looking at the price of 2zz and checking out your build to make up my mind. Cheers
You can oil change a 2zz every 3000kms and still end up with scoring on the cylinder walls...they never built these motors to rebuild them over again and again.
I have a corolla xrs with the 2zzge and the distribution chain broke for that reason the valves were bent ... I bought all the parts and started again ... as you already know this car reaches 8000 revolutions but when I accelerate it it only goes up to 7000 and it is as if your cut was at 7000 ... someone knows what the problem is ... regards
Idk about not being able to hone the bores, you could probably take out a thousandth or two. Might need a machine shop with a diamond hone though, or you could have the bores nikasil plated
I'm almost tempted, but the manual says that it is over a certain size to just outright replace the block. As far as nikasil goes, I'll be driving this thing on the street and nikasil does not like the sulfur in gasoline.
@@IGDesigns the sulfur was only a problem in the early 90s with certain engines. Most new motorcycles use a nikasil bore, sulfur levels have dropped so they're not a problem any more. You could get the bores done for less than $200 per hole I'd bet, probably cheaper than another engine.
You can but I’ve heard it can be tricky and sometimes they fail on these motors. I also think the design with the MMC cool and wanted to keep that technology in the motor so that’s why I tried a second block. Doesn’t make sense I guess haha
This is awesome! Im actually looking into rebuilding a 2zz engine but with performance mods and turbo. I want to be fast but not the fastest it gets too in depth with maintenance, but my goal is between 500 and 600 horsepower. Do you have a page i can use to contact you?
My build will be naturally aspirated and nowhere near that power haha. If you're on Instagram you can search IG_Designed and send messages with any questions you have and I'll try my best to ask.
Monkey Wrench Racing is a very good resource. So will you be doing a naturally aspirated build and turboing later? If you do that, a lot of the work you do, up will need to undo and do all over again to make that work. It might be worth to save/plan and go right for a turbo build.
Right what im say is i am building for a turbo. Like knife edge crankshaft, crower rods, mahle pistons, and piper cams stage 2. Im building it n/a with performance internals. Get that running nice and smooth and get the most i can out of it. THEN turbo it.
To be honest there's nowhere I can recommend. I bought a used block that also turned out to be no good (hence the switch to a k motor). Monkey Wrench Racing offers a new block but it's pricey.
No idea where it came from, I bought it online. I think it was just bad luck. With a high mileage motor, I'd just be worried about wear/taper in the cylinders.
Bro, I own lotus with 2zz engine, I wonder a lot about the wiped cams, Lotus Elise has this issue, do you have this issue? If you have MR2 you can build k24 on it and enjoy modifying the car until 700 HP if you want, I don't think 2zz can handle 400HP
@@zak4lifepodcast466 it's just my last video I uploaded tearing down a k24. I was hinting at the fact that I am actually k swapping it now since you mentioned it.
@@IGDesigns dont you listen to people who cannot spell. Great job very well done. The dropping stuff was the funny bit. Added a nice touch to the video.
make it a habit...always replace every bolt after removing the part you need to take out. youll reassemble the motor quicker, not lose any bolts or mix em up and avoid crud going into the bolt holes. 7:40 holy sheet lol
Man after watching many different engine tear down videos with folks using a wide array of expensive air tools, feels great to watch a tear down with simple tools. Makes everything feel a lot more accessible. Thanks for making this
"Now be carefull not to damage anything" throws crank position plate, timing chain guide and sprocket, pistons etc etc :P Great and informative video though :D well done
Do as I say not as I do right? Obviously be more careful than I was haha. I knew I'm replacing a lot of these plus I'm just stupid.
:D nah it was funny but also you show how to be more careful :p
Breh take it easy on him chilllll for a first time watching his videos I learned what not to do 😂😂😂😂
Probably rebuilding the motor
Damn gravity 😀
Unbelievable
Thanks for the upload. I just tore down my motor with ease because of this video. Parts currently soaking in Diesel and with a wire brush have come up great. Discovered heavy scoring on the piston skirts and cylinder walls though so lucky this engine is just one to muck around with and isnt going into anything
The teardown is always the funnest part
Nice teardown. Best view I have seen of 2zz out of the car
You're a champ. I can tell how cold it was, and you didn't let it stop you.
Itd cost about the same to sleeve it as it would to buy another motor and then you'd have an engine that could stand much more HP if you decided to get crazy with it. I'd sleeve it before I'd buy another block
You are absolutely right, but I have read about these engines not liking sleeves and sometimes fail because of them. The reason I bought another motor is because I think the MMC technology is cool and it's something that makes the motor/car unique so in mind I want to stay "true" to it. It's not really practical and may not make sense, but if I was trying to be practical or make sense I wouldn't have a project car haha.
I done a mr2 2zz swap a month ago, its definitely worth it
Just that piston down there for a second! awesome video by the way can't wait to get started one day.
Some experience is what I need when it comes to building motors and this is it no lie I have never seen the internals of a motor but I understand how it works though and it is very interesting to see someone else pull something apart over a screen😂
Just throw yourself at it, that's what I did. I was a bit negligent in this video but once I do an actual engine build you'll see that I pay much more attention.
Looks easy tbh but man u dropping every thing had me laughing 😂
I'm a true showman
😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣
Great video and very informative.
Gravity & Murphy in the same room on camera never go well.
Head bolts are INTERNAL triple-square fasteners on my engine. I had to buy a special long set to get through the cam holes. And the sounds when loosening made my skin crawl.......EEEECH.....EEEEECH, thought they would shear before yielding......grrr. I HATE stretch/TTL bolts!
Mr. P
Update: TTY bolts....Torque To Yield.
Thank you for this, I'm gonna be rebuilding my Pontiac Vibe GT's 2zz with this
Butter fingers
is it called out in the manual to drop the parts?
Yeah, it's something about surface hardening. That's why they recommend the dishwasher gloves.
Is it called out in the playbook to drop the ball?
Nice post Mr. Waldron and the value to have added is most certainly......
Best 2zzge video
Dude thank you for this.
Bro, just found this and it's a brilliant video. Don't even have a k24 bit gonna watch your video on it anyway as this is so well done. Hope you keep this up, deserve so many more subs!
wow, great video! least u got the balls to do it.
Thanks! We'll see if I regret it.
Bearing cap assembly?...had no idea there was a separation like that. So is there a gasket there? It sure didn't look like it.
I'm waiting for you to take videos when installing valves and springs. There are no visible videos about these. Especially for shim.
I'm working on it, don't worry, it's coming
@@IGDesigns
Hello IG Designs,
Shimming is a little crazy on the 2zz due to the cam-rocker for VV-L. Plan to have shim kit as you will need it.
The manual I used "2001 Celica" has no value.
Rockers must be "balanced" 1st, then measured at low-speed cam lobe (as in manual), then calculated/reset for correct clearance and balance.
The shims from Toyota are $5-8 each and require 8 that you will not use unless you want to pull the cam for each cylinder.
I have heard that a GOOD machine shop can grind seats, valves, and machine each valve to keep the original shims......but I find it hard to believe and possible more than re-shimming. ????
I am stupid/lucky and gave my head to MWR (never got my original shims back though paid for 16 @ $8 per). Still saved money and have no use for old shims.
MR. P
@@LSmiata
Thanks for the insight. I am a bit nervous about the whole shimming process, I've read a bit about it and it seems like a pain. To be honest I haven't worried about it too much because I have a long way to go before I get there.
Hello IG Designs,
From watching your videos, I believe you are fully capable of the valve lash job, its just that you need so many shims to get the base-line first, then the final shims. When I got my head back for the machine shop and added the cams, I had "negative valve lash", meaning that I could not get any feeler gauge under the low cam profile rocker.
To my understanding, after a valve job, it is a 3 step process.
1) Balance your rockers per cylinder so that there is no gap when lightly pushed (measure gap on valve that has gap, compare to "high" shim (no gap) and adjust so the rocker sits evenly on both valves).
2) If measured clearance is negative (no clearance), must reduce the shim size greatly (shorter shim) and equally to get base-line for final shim number.
3) Using math, adjust each shim to desired clearance.
NOTE: Do research. I took my head back to MWR b/c the intake lash was too high. After talking with them and doing research, this is common to prevent high wear on intake cam and rocker followers.
My intake cam and one of the rockers was badly worn and needed to be replaced.
Hope this helps,
Mr. P
Just ripped a 2zz from a junk car and it doesn’t seem to have as deep gouges as yours and I think I might’ve lucked out. Is there any way I can send you some pictures, other than making a video, to get a second opinion?
Yeah I'm on Instagram, IG_Designed. If you're not in there let me know
Should've unlocked the VVT Cam Gear with compressed air before removing. I personally prefer removing those factory camgear 5 sided bolts with regular high grade hex bolts and a little loctite so I can take apart the gear and unlock it easier without air. Also allows you to clean the inside of the gear.
"Was gunna catch the piston, but then i got High"
was there a key way on the balancer or is it welded to the shaft?
Was following along and sad to find out you went with k-swap.. 😭
It was a tough choice...
@@IGDesigns I appreciate the detailed engine removal process non the less. Helped me get thru my first engine removal. Curious were you gonna follow any particular guide when you were about to refresh the 2zz or do you already know what to do? Wanted to see if I can follow the guide as well.
Wow, I didn't know that about scoring in z22 motors ... makes me worry about buying a lotus
All things considered, probably still worth it...
@@IGDesigns Make sure it's not blowing smoke
What does the scoring mean on the piston sleeves? How does that affect a rebuild?
So in the grand scheme of things, if a cylinder/cylinder wall is worn out of spec or damaged, it will not be able to maintain compression so it won't produce power when the gas is ignited. Sometimes this can be repaired by having the block machined, but this can't be done because of the special lining on the cylinder walls of the 2zz. In Toyota's manual it even says to scrap the block if it is out of spec.
@@IGDesigns dang thats a bust i have a 2zz-ge but i havent opened her up so idk if i have it, is it from normal wear and tear or from running her hard?
I would guess it's neglect mostly, you can do a compression test and that's a good indicator
@@IGDesigns running it on low oil would cause scoring too right?
you can bore these, you just have to have an engine builder with diamond bore/hone bits , and they need to be re nikasil coated after as well
cheaper to buy a new short block
@@JamezAdam but with the engines in short supply, kinda silly. I hope he kept it
great video about to go do the swap rn
Mr.Clumbsy 😂😂😂
there is no reason to take off the sprockets from the cam shafts
Right that’s what I was thinking 🤣
fuck I miss how engines use to be simple
I was thinking this exact thing
it’s gotta be cause of those gloves 🤹
Was the motor running when you tore it apart?
It was, we'll see if it does every again
I'm considering buying an mr2 spyder as one just came up at a low price but I'm not sure since I'd have to put the 2zz in and 6 sp manual and get a hard top as well but this would be expensive and a pain to do so I'm looking at every video trying to decide what to do. Anyway keep the video coming interested to see what happens
You're right, it is expensive much l Iike every other car project. As fad as a 2zz swap it's one of the easiest swaps you'll come by. These cars are harder and harder to find as time goes on. They small, lightweight, and nimble. They're like a slightly softened lotus even though a lot of people right them off. It really depends what you're looking for in car. Good luck with your decision!
@@IGDesigns well I've got the cash to buy one at the 3.5k asking price but with the cost of a 2zz and i want a hard top for it I'm just not sure I'm currently looking at the price of 2zz and checking out your build to make up my mind. Cheers
Man aint gunna damage anything I trust him with his own motor it ain’t mine so if he breaks something I just gained some experience 😂😂😂😂
You can bore and sleeve this engine, wouldnt of that been a choice for preformance?
You can oil change a 2zz every 3000kms and still end up with scoring on the cylinder walls...they never built these motors to rebuild them over again and again.
Great video
I have a corolla xrs with the 2zzge and the distribution chain broke for that reason the valves were bent ... I bought all the parts and started again ... as you already know this car reaches 8000 revolutions but when I accelerate it it only goes up to 7000 and it is as if your cut was at 7000 ... someone knows what the problem is ... regards
How can I get a overall keet for my 2zzge with water jacket for the head to harder
Hit a piston out and drop it straight on the floor don't matter as he dropped everything else
You could sleeve it
You don't need a manual to know that you should loosen from the outside in
As someone who has never torn down an engine, I can confirm I would not have k own without the manual.
Idk about not being able to hone the bores, you could probably take out a thousandth or two. Might need a machine shop with a diamond hone though, or you could have the bores nikasil plated
I'm almost tempted, but the manual says that it is over a certain size to just outright replace the block. As far as nikasil goes, I'll be driving this thing on the street and nikasil does not like the sulfur in gasoline.
@@IGDesigns the sulfur was only a problem in the early 90s with certain engines. Most new motorcycles use a nikasil bore, sulfur levels have dropped so they're not a problem any more. You could get the bores done for less than $200 per hole I'd bet, probably cheaper than another engine.
@@IGDesigns yeah looks like US Chrome does 4 cyl motorcycle blocks for around $500. So probably a bit more for automotive block
Bro you have some jelly butter fingers man wtf lol .. you should be named the shakey jakey
You can't hone it.........Could you sleeve it? Edit: Found my answer. Yes.
Yeah, I've read it's tricky with this motor but it is possible. For that amount of money and work I've decided on a new direction though.
can we sleeve it instead buy another motor??,
You can but I’ve heard it can be tricky and sometimes they fail on these motors. I also think the design with the MMC cool and wanted to keep that technology in the motor so that’s why I tried a second block. Doesn’t make sense I guess haha
This is awesome! Im actually looking into rebuilding a 2zz engine but with performance mods and turbo. I want to be fast but not the fastest it gets too in depth with maintenance, but my goal is between 500 and 600 horsepower. Do you have a page i can use to contact you?
My build will be naturally aspirated and nowhere near that power haha. If you're on Instagram you can search IG_Designed and send messages with any questions you have and I'll try my best to ask.
Yeah im looking to get it built natually aspirated. And then get it turboed. Ever heard of Monkey Wrench Racing? They have everything you need.
Monkey Wrench Racing is a very good resource. So will you be doing a naturally aspirated build and turboing later? If you do that, a lot of the work you do, up will need to undo and do all over again to make that work. It might be worth to save/plan and go right for a turbo build.
Right what im say is i am building for a turbo. Like knife edge crankshaft, crower rods, mahle pistons, and piper cams stage 2. Im building it n/a with performance internals. Get that running nice and smooth and get the most i can out of it. THEN turbo it.
@@CristianHernandez-oi7dt How did the N/A build go? Is it Turbo now?
And Chuck everything on the floor 😂
Hey I said tear down not up
Specialist tools used here
2ZZ dropdown*
Wheres the best place to get another block? I found some places online but alot reviews on the sites say its a scam so I feel I've had no luck
Just need the block itself
To be honest there's nowhere I can recommend. I bought a used block that also turned out to be no good (hence the switch to a k motor). Monkey Wrench Racing offers a new block but it's pricey.
@@IGDesigns yeah I saw monkey but yes they are sadly
It is not possible to bore the 2zz? And if you have scratches on the cilinder like yours?
It is recommended not to because of the mmc lining. The manual says once it's out of spec to source a new block.
@@IGDesigns what about put new sleeves? I sent the zz a sleeve block?
You can get it sleeved, it's tricky but it can be done
Wheres the updates?
Working on the valvetrain video now
unlucky with the scoring on the inside housing. I have 150K miles on a '01. Any info on what this 2ZZ came out of?
No idea where it came from, I bought it online. I think it was just bad luck. With a high mileage motor, I'd just be worried about wear/taper in the cylinders.
tear it apart throw parts around find them later..........make power. REPEAT
Bro, I own lotus with 2zz engine, I wonder a lot about the wiped cams, Lotus Elise has this issue, do you have this issue?
If you have MR2 you can build k24 on it and enjoy modifying the car until 700 HP if you want, I don't think 2zz can handle 400HP
You should check out my newer video haha
@@IGDesigns can i have the link?
@@zak4lifepodcast466 it's just my last video I uploaded tearing down a k24. I was hinting at the fact that I am actually k swapping it now since you mentioned it.
you are verry clumbsy, i wouldnt let you work on my engine, other than that nice video ;)
A guy drops a couple things and the world's against him
@@IGDesigns dont you listen to people who cannot spell. Great job very well done. The dropping stuff was the funny bit. Added a nice touch to the video.
@@adeelahmed1319 Haha I never claimed I was a professional
Ooh man, that oil pump drive design sucks. This is why I just stick to my JZ engines.
Bedplate design
Que basura de motor
make it a habit...always replace every bolt after removing the part you need to take out. youll reassemble the motor quicker, not lose any bolts or mix em up and avoid crud going into the bolt holes.
7:40 holy sheet lol