I have a 1961 Lincoln convertible that I am bringing back to life. Your videos are being very helpful. Really enjoy them respect your knowledge and ability.
Having owned a '69 Lincoln and currently owning a '67 Lincoln, believe me when I tell you its NOT THE SOLENOID that prevents starting - its the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH. If when you turn the key you get a click and nothing else, wiggle the shifter! They are fussy as hell and wear out easily, and are very expensive to replace (plus you have to remove the entire dash).
Well, not the entire dash; just the lower housing has to come off to access the switch. It may need a spritz of Liquid Wrench to loosen it up, but it may also need adjusting. The switch is held on the column with two 5/16" (or 8mm) screws, which should be loosened so the switch can be moved about in its place. The shop manual gives instructions on how to properly adjust a neutral safety switch; get one and study it (it will be covered in Chapter 7, which is all about the transmission).
I admire your patience and calm demeanor. As much as l do enjoy working on old cars, it's the little continuous things that keep adding up and take so much time to sort. I just recently got all the electrical issues sorted on my '84 Lincoln....it took 3 years and almost drove me clinically insane.
I once had my great-uncle's '69 Continental sedan. He bought it new in December '68 and used it as their daily til he bought a '78 Coupe de'Vil.....he went to a two door since the rear-opening body style was discontinued after '69. That car had been parked for 10-12 years, but had only 73k miles! Points, fresh gasoline & oil, and it was running.....but then everything had to be replaced, rebuilt, or repaired..... 1969 was the final year of the "slab-sided" Lincolns, and the first year using the big block 460 "truck" engine. There were several different details, but much was the same as the '67 in you videos..... I wanted *soooo* bad to holler at you to "Pull that shifter up tight!" and "Good grief, don't let that 5000 pound beast fall off those jack stands!"..... I really enjoyed seeing that big boat wallerin' around in your videos..... BTW, ours had a personalized NC tag that read "MYOT"....😉
came here by algorithm. VGG fan. love it. great cars, those Lincolns. camera perspective took a second to get used to, but now I don't wanna do without. high quality, up close. Very cool to get into the machinery as a viewer as well. For sure some extra effort from you, but it makes great content. The whole vibe, family - great. cool projects. please keep it up. subscribed. god bless.
Had one of these back in the day. What a good riding car. The only problem I had was a rubber hose in the gas tank which was in pieces and would stop up the fuel pump and stop the car. Drained the tank and found the rubber pieces in the tank. After that it ran like a jewl. Everything worked. What a boat. Loved it. Enjoy you videos. Mike
I could tell you everything you needed to know here, because I have over 30 years of experience with these cars, to include the 1966 Conti I have. First of all, the first thing you should have gotten (and still need to get) is a shop manual specifically for your year (1967). They exist. Where the flushing of the cooling system is concerned, you need to do the block as well. There are plugs in the block, one on each side, that are removed with a 3/8" socket; these are drain plugs for the cooling passages of the block. If you don't remove them and then do direct flushing into the engine itself, you can cause eventual damage to the engine. There is very likely a ton of rusty buildup in there, enough to clog up half the block; if nothing comes out of the engine when you remove the plugs, then you know you have a major clog-up. If that is not cleared out, the coolant will not carry off the heat generated by the engine, leaving the oil to do more of that job than it's supposed to. Take it from me: Avoid internal heat damage by flushing out the block directly; a "regular" flushing will NOT get that stuff out. You will need a high-pressure sprayer to get in there, along with magnetic probes to grab the rusty garbage that will still try to dam up the flushing at the holes. Luckily, that stuff is magnetic. Your coolant bypass hose, the short hose between the water pump and intake manifold, is 7/8". You will not find that size in any store, not even NAPA. You will, however, find listings on E-Bay for new hose of that size. You will need 3 inches of 7/8" hose; it is a bit of a squeeze to insert that hose with the water pump and intake in place, but it can be done. In a pinch, you can use 13/16" hose, but it will be even more difficult to fit it into place. No, the original carburetor is not junk, not yet. You're talking about a Carter, a design so good that Edelbrock bought it from Carter. The original can be cleaned out and reused; however, admittedly, getting a proper rebuild kit is no longer possible (the ones that are available can still be used, as long as you don't have to replace the dashpot piston). It is easier to just swap in an Edelbrock, admittedly, but I'd recommend a 1906 model; the 1406 you showed in the video requires mods to the fuel lines because its inlet is located on the wrong side (but you already know that). Where the return line is concerned, it does have a return line, although it's more for vapor return than liquid-fuel return. Your fuel pump is supposed to have three separate ports cast into it; yours has only two. That indicates that a prior owner had an aftermarket pump installed instead of having the original repaired, as it was supposed to be. You will have a lot of vapor-lock and fuel-starvation problems ahead of you unless you replace that pump with a proper 3-port fuel pump. Newly-rebuilt ones can be had from numerous sources, but they are expensive. Or...if you're lucky, you can find one off an organ donor in a nearby junkyard, then buy a rebuild kit which is a lot cheaper; the problem there is availability, as many junkyards no longer have cars like these in their inventory. It all depends on where you are. You will need a new set of tires. The car has been dormant for 20 years, and no tire is supposed to be kept beyond 5. That is why the right-rear one will not hold air. The other three aren't far behind, either, even if they haven't blown out yet (well, watching further, that proved they aren't far behind). It looks like you have far bigger problems with the accelerator. The floor is rotted out. That means you will need to do some replacement of the floor panel, an extra ordeal considering that this car is unibody in its construction. Your solution seems like a pretty good one, though; I do recommend putting some kind of sealant around the perimeter of the replacement plate, to keep water from the road from getting into the car and rotting more of the flooring. I would NOT advise driving with only front brakes operating! You will have to replace that flex hose; yes, I saw immediately that the one RockAuto sent you was all wrong. I don't know what's up with them, but a lot of their listings for this year and model are outright wrong. You can find the correct flex hose on E-Bay, like you found OE-spec front-brake hoses (BTW, $60 a side is as good as you can hope for where this car is concerned). It will run you about the same or more as a front-brake hose, but it will be correct. Good call about replacing the cylinders in the rears; you're right about them. There is supposed to be a rubber boot over that accelerator rod that connects to the pedal. No Lincoln-specific replacements exist, but there is a way to mod a Mustang's boot to serve the purpose it's supposed to serve, which is to keep water and road debris from going into that hole and rotting out stuff (which is what happened). Good you replaced the starter; I knew that was something you had to do as soon as it started grinding when you turned the key. But the reason you need to keep wiggling the shifter to start it is because the neutral safety switch, located on the steering column under the dash, is out of adjustment. It needs to be adjusted to get a proper start without wiggling the shifter. Yes, very likely you have fuel and ignition issues to keep the engine from running like it's supposed to. Maybe adjustments to those will help. I can give you so much more in pointers, like where the car's biggest design flaws are; but I would short out the comments section trying to put them all here. I am very happy to see that someone besides me had a desire to rescue one of these cars from the grave, so to speak.
Wow that’s a lot of information thank you very much. I should have further videos of the Lincoln coming I bought a fuel pump rebuild kit but it is wrong because it is a two port rebuild kit but I’m having trouble finding all the parts I need. But I did buy a service manual. Thanks so much
@@Sleeperdude Aw, no...I do have a saved listing for a proper pump-rebuild kit on E-Bay. It's still active, which means the seller still has some. I bought one of those kits about three years ago to redo a spare pump I have (which I've yet to do because there's a broken screw in the housing that I need to extract and replace). This is it (hopefully UA-cam will permit it): www.ebay.com/itm/191732531768?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l9372 The listing is now saying that they have only one left. The seller is Mark II Enterprises, one of several specialist sellers of vintage-Lincoln parts.
The s terminal on the solenoid should have voltage from the key in start mode.The I terminal on solenoid goes to the coil to send 12 volts while cranking to bypass resistor.
Wow, never heard one diesel for that long! Might've been a world record. Also, my dad said he almost had his arm/wrist broken because of a steering wheel that started turning on its own. He reached through the steering wheel to turn the ignition switch and as soon as it cranked, the steering wheel started spinning. That's a life lesson right there.
@@Sleeperdude I've seen engines run backwards and do that. they almost cut off then it kicks at the wrong time and starts up backward running on unburnt exhaust fumes. I got it to stop running by putting my hand over exhaust and cutting it's air off.
The timing is definitely in dire need of servicing. If my guess is right, it's a lot more involved than just adjusting the distributor. Your engine likely still has the original timing gears and chain, the cam gear being an aluminum wheel with a nylon ring gear. That is a disaster just waiting to happen, because it will either cause the physical timing to slip off (bad for an interference-configuration engine like the 462), or it will starve the oil pump of oil when the nylon shards clog up the screen or worse get into the pump itself. Nylon wears out with mere age, not use; but use of an aged piece of nylon will accelerate the break-up. That is actually one of the two design flaws of that engine, and one which was not intended to be a design flaw; at the time they really believed that a nylon ring gear was better as it silenced chain chatter which plagued engines up through the 1950s...but they did not know about the limited life span of synthetics like nylon, rayon, dacron, polyester, etc. You really need to look into all-steel replacements. Luckily, those are easy to acquire. Incidentally, the other design flaw is in the oil pump: It's a regular-pressure, regular-volume pump, which is inadequate for an engine whose roots are in high performance. Because of the reversible heads, the oil flow to the upper half of the engine is restricted (FEs have this problem too, and it's better known with them). The regular-volume pump was barely adequate when it was new; 54 years later, it's totally inadequate. You need to acquire a regular-pressure, HIGH-VOLUME oil pump, which will push more oil at the same pressure through the passages and compensate for the problems in the upper-half lubrication.
I saw a '76 Thunderbird diesel long enough for a man to park in front of a grocery store , walk in and buy some beer - walk back out , turn the key on and drive away without hitting the starter. That thing shook , rattled and ran backwards for at least six minutes, had to have been hammering the hell out of everything in it.
@@Sleeperdude The earlier Ford power steering systems will do that if you connect the hydraulic lines incorrectly. Known a few guys who bruised/broke arms/fingers because of it.
@@Sleeperdude Wasn't too bad, for what it was. When that motor runs right it's a good fit for the weight so it doesn't have to work hard. The speedometer is a cylinder that rotates.😊👍 PS, also had a 67 2 door. Only 2 462's I ever had any dealings with, not similar to a 460.
I have never had luck with any plug but autolite in all the fords I have from 1965 to 2009. Glad to see you catching the antifreeze, with all the farm and pet animals around there I would be worried about one of them ingesting some and getting harmed.
My old boss had the same car . He had it restored. It was black with red interior. He offered me his car . He was willing to trade it for work he wanted done on his welding shop . I never took the deal . I wish now I would of taken the deal after watching you work on this gem of a car .
I love your videos! I have learned a lot from you! I like that when you take a shortcut you explain what you are doing and why you can take it! Sometimes you just have to do what you can to make it work! Keep the great content coming!
I like that you check everything before taking the car out for a rip. I bought a Corvair van once and by the time I got it home the transmission was toast because it didn't have any oil in it. The dealer who sold it to me wouldn't make it right so I had to find another tranny and install it before I could even drive it 🤬
Josh it sounds like you got one of the most difficult engine starts I've ever seen probably a meal 430 that engine is hard to work with I wish you all the best man cuz that engine is going to be hard-pressed to work with I hope you get it started cuz that's a beautiful car holla if you hear me
dieseling do to high compression these old big Lincoln's have hi/comp engines 10.25 to 1 need's 92 oct or better gas. The starter issue is called the Bendex and ya Ford used that same starter on a lot of V8's My grandpa bought the last of the suicide door Lincolns in 69 it was white with black vinyl top he gave it to my dad in the 80's we sold it to a friend in the late 90's he still owns it to day and has fully restored it .It has over 400,000 miles on it !!!
@@Sleeperdude my Dad passed along his Mark III and Mark V...outstanding, tough automobiles! I passed one to my son and one to the youngest daughter they both still sleep them in mint condition! Great video!
I have a 67 Linc 2 door...i didn't watch the whole thing but feel the need to add my 2 cents. Looks like that motor probably has the original nylon timing gear in it. They crack real easy and the teeth brake off and get stuck inside the oil pickup tube which ends the fun quickly....aside from the numerous vacuum leaks, slack from a deteriorating timing gear will cause stumbling on acceleration
Theses cars always did that when you turned them off. Seriously it was crazy. I still laugh when it happens. I Love the car. Great work. Hard work especially while videoing everything. If you can't undo a heater hose clamp try using a dremel if you can reach it with it. I really do like this car and it takes a lot of work to get a car that's been sitting like this going again. I was surprised when he said the idle was too low as I was sure it was a lot too high but I wasn't there and can't really know by watching from a video. Great vid Thank you! After watching for a while more I'm still convinced the idle is too high LOL. But what do I know eh? LOL.
I've have worked with many friends and their hitrods for the last 35 years. The best solution for that pesky hood latch... A good tennis ball with a slit in it. Slit it about 3" long. Then slide it over the end of the latch. U tell you what, it only takes one trip to the ER to get 8 staples in the skull region, to never allow it again.
Tractor Supply sells a universal cable that works on law mowers and come with a lever,heck they ain't but like 8 bucks,they work great as choke cables.
That engine will not idle (in part) because it has vacuum leaks. I would block the body vacuum at the engine until you can sort out the leaks. Vacuum powered accessories were popular with Ford for half a decade.
Have you found where the power steering pump is and how the w/wiper work? Ck out the fuse box is location. I have own several from 1960 to 1966. Enjoy the videos keep at it and good luck,
@@Sleeperdude It was probably embarrassing at first to see that it was so easy to locate. However, the circuit breakers are a bit harder to get to. Hopefully you won't have to any time soon. Keep an eye on that steering pump. The steering is the biggest design flaw of these cars, and it all comes down to one thing: The spacers on the steering gearbox. They are the root cause of all failures in the steering. The pump is not designed to run dry for any length of time beyond one second; if you do, it will eat itself up (which you will know is happening when you hear it groaning). You always need to keep watch on the level of fluid (which has to be Type F, same for the transmission), at least until you manage to expel every gremlin that has taken up residence in the system. The hydraulic wiper motor is likely frozen after 2 decades, but it can be freed up by simply sweeping the wipers manually one or two sweeps. Now, if you get the wipers running but they won't stop when you turn the control off, that means that a check valve in the motor has seized up in the open position. That is a fairly easy fix once you access it (which can be hard if you don't know where to look). I also advise looking around for a good hydraulics shop in your area who can reproduce the flex lines used in the system; they will eventually need it. No question, these cars are super-weird; a good 87% of them is exclusive, not shared with any other Ford. Many people learn that the hard way. But it can be fun to get it running again once you unlearn everything you think you may know about Fords.
I love fords....the only thing bad is they don't have the level of...parts interchange that gm. does....I wonder how many of the core items are being reproduced?
Motorcraft made 3 different starter heads 2 hole non threaded 2 hole one threaded and unthreaded hole,and the 3 hole ...then they made 2 sizes the 4 inch diameter starter for most 4 cylinders and then the 4 1/2 diameter for all inline 6's and v-8's from the 60's up until about 1996 then they added a 2 solonoid just like GM earlier Ford starters had a long shaft about 6 to 8 inches long with a completely exposed starter drive with 3 holes .....since mostly everything was stick shift
Hello the noise at the beginning of the video it's the starter with my 1990 Chevrolet Caprice I had the same noise I had made a bad connection there was a mass which attaches to the metal which protects the starter and my mistake I plugged it into the starter !!!
Brilliant video Josh man that car was hard work wasn't it, one thing after another after another doh!! It reminds me of an old priests car or funeral directors car that u see in the films from like back in the 50/60s do u know what I mean like I can see the old priests dressed in there long black cassocks with them old round hats that they used to wear driving that about, lol 🤣 & esp as it's white too lol 🤣 anyway another great video 👍🤘💖 keep up the good work mate luv yr videos
@@Sleeperdude they and the thunderbirds are driven by dozens of vacuum connections , under the hood and under the dash , even one little broken connection, say in the heater , defroster or AC can create a miss that will drive you crazy. Been there with a '69 suicide door T-bird. Good luck, I'd love to hear it running right !!
If...you read this...your plug wires are to close to the manifold...so they will burn if youre not careful. At least thats what happens in the next video! Yes, I did watch them out of order, but I figured if I can catch you now..."now" you can tell "past" you...and you can fix them now instead of in the future...before they burn. 😁 You are welcome...just trying to help.
Yes, there are many similarities with the FE-series Y-blocks. That is not to say, however, that most of the stuff is interchangeable, because it isn't; it's just similar in design, but not quite similar enough to swap between FEs and MELs. I personally prefer O'Reilly electrical components; I've had less-than-impressive experience with AutoZone's stuffs. But that starter is at least a good starting point (pardon the pun).
I would sandblast the surface rust , treats it with that rust killer on bottom edge ,that looks pretty good and prime the hell out of it and then do whatever
I have a 1961 Lincoln convertible that I am bringing back to life. Your videos are being very helpful. Really enjoy them respect your knowledge and ability.
Glad to help
I've spent the entire day binge watching all of your videos!! I'm hooked! lol
Awesome
I wouldn't consider that binge watching.
Having owned a '69 Lincoln and currently owning a '67 Lincoln, believe me when I tell you its NOT THE SOLENOID that prevents starting - its the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH. If when you turn the key you get a click and nothing else, wiggle the shifter! They are fussy as hell and wear out easily, and are very expensive to replace (plus you have to remove the entire dash).
Ok thanks for letting me know
Well, not the entire dash; just the lower housing has to come off to access the switch. It may need a spritz of Liquid Wrench to loosen it up, but it may also need adjusting. The switch is held on the column with two 5/16" (or 8mm) screws, which should be loosened so the switch can be moved about in its place. The shop manual gives instructions on how to properly adjust a neutral safety switch; get one and study it (it will be covered in Chapter 7, which is all about the transmission).
I admire your patience and calm demeanor. As much as l do enjoy working on old cars, it's the little continuous things that keep adding up and take so much time to sort. I just recently got all the electrical issues sorted on my '84 Lincoln....it took 3 years and almost drove me clinically insane.
Thanks that Lincoln is very complicated for a 60s car
I once had my great-uncle's '69 Continental sedan. He bought it new in December '68 and used it as their daily til he bought a '78 Coupe de'Vil.....he went to a two door since the rear-opening body style was discontinued after '69.
That car had been parked for 10-12 years, but had only 73k miles! Points, fresh gasoline & oil, and it was running.....but then everything had to be replaced, rebuilt, or repaired.....
1969 was the final year of the "slab-sided" Lincolns, and the first year using the big block 460 "truck" engine. There were several different details, but much was the same as the '67 in you videos.....
I wanted *soooo* bad to holler at you to "Pull that shifter up tight!" and "Good grief, don't let that 5000 pound beast fall off those jack stands!".....
I really enjoyed seeing that big boat wallerin' around in your videos.....
BTW, ours had a personalized NC tag that read "MYOT"....😉
That’s awesome thank you
came here by algorithm. VGG fan. love it.
great cars, those Lincolns.
camera perspective took a second to get used to, but now I don't wanna do without. high quality, up close. Very cool to get into the machinery as a viewer as well. For sure some extra effort from you, but it makes great content.
The whole vibe, family - great. cool projects. please keep it up.
subscribed. god bless.
Thanks man
Had one of these back in the day. What a good riding car. The only problem I had was a rubber hose in the gas tank which was in pieces and would stop up the fuel pump and stop the car. Drained the tank and found the rubber pieces in the tank. After that it ran like a jewl. Everything worked. What a boat. Loved it. Enjoy you videos. Mike
That’s awesome
Going through your older videos, absolutely loving the Lincoln playlist
Glad you like them!
Definitely more needed
I could tell you everything you needed to know here, because I have over 30 years of experience with these cars, to include the 1966 Conti I have. First of all, the first thing you should have gotten (and still need to get) is a shop manual specifically for your year (1967). They exist.
Where the flushing of the cooling system is concerned, you need to do the block as well. There are plugs in the block, one on each side, that are removed with a 3/8" socket; these are drain plugs for the cooling passages of the block. If you don't remove them and then do direct flushing into the engine itself, you can cause eventual damage to the engine. There is very likely a ton of rusty buildup in there, enough to clog up half the block; if nothing comes out of the engine when you remove the plugs, then you know you have a major clog-up. If that is not cleared out, the coolant will not carry off the heat generated by the engine, leaving the oil to do more of that job than it's supposed to. Take it from me: Avoid internal heat damage by flushing out the block directly; a "regular" flushing will NOT get that stuff out. You will need a high-pressure sprayer to get in there, along with magnetic probes to grab the rusty garbage that will still try to dam up the flushing at the holes. Luckily, that stuff is magnetic.
Your coolant bypass hose, the short hose between the water pump and intake manifold, is 7/8". You will not find that size in any store, not even NAPA. You will, however, find listings on E-Bay for new hose of that size. You will need 3 inches of 7/8" hose; it is a bit of a squeeze to insert that hose with the water pump and intake in place, but it can be done. In a pinch, you can use 13/16" hose, but it will be even more difficult to fit it into place.
No, the original carburetor is not junk, not yet. You're talking about a Carter, a design so good that Edelbrock bought it from Carter. The original can be cleaned out and reused; however, admittedly, getting a proper rebuild kit is no longer possible (the ones that are available can still be used, as long as you don't have to replace the dashpot piston). It is easier to just swap in an Edelbrock, admittedly, but I'd recommend a 1906 model; the 1406 you showed in the video requires mods to the fuel lines because its inlet is located on the wrong side (but you already know that). Where the return line is concerned, it does have a return line, although it's more for vapor return than liquid-fuel return. Your fuel pump is supposed to have three separate ports cast into it; yours has only two. That indicates that a prior owner had an aftermarket pump installed instead of having the original repaired, as it was supposed to be. You will have a lot of vapor-lock and fuel-starvation problems ahead of you unless you replace that pump with a proper 3-port fuel pump. Newly-rebuilt ones can be had from numerous sources, but they are expensive. Or...if you're lucky, you can find one off an organ donor in a nearby junkyard, then buy a rebuild kit which is a lot cheaper; the problem there is availability, as many junkyards no longer have cars like these in their inventory. It all depends on where you are.
You will need a new set of tires. The car has been dormant for 20 years, and no tire is supposed to be kept beyond 5. That is why the right-rear one will not hold air. The other three aren't far behind, either, even if they haven't blown out yet (well, watching further, that proved they aren't far behind).
It looks like you have far bigger problems with the accelerator. The floor is rotted out. That means you will need to do some replacement of the floor panel, an extra ordeal considering that this car is unibody in its construction. Your solution seems like a pretty good one, though; I do recommend putting some kind of sealant around the perimeter of the replacement plate, to keep water from the road from getting into the car and rotting more of the flooring.
I would NOT advise driving with only front brakes operating! You will have to replace that flex hose; yes, I saw immediately that the one RockAuto sent you was all wrong. I don't know what's up with them, but a lot of their listings for this year and model are outright wrong. You can find the correct flex hose on E-Bay, like you found OE-spec front-brake hoses (BTW, $60 a side is as good as you can hope for where this car is concerned). It will run you about the same or more as a front-brake hose, but it will be correct. Good call about replacing the cylinders in the rears; you're right about them.
There is supposed to be a rubber boot over that accelerator rod that connects to the pedal. No Lincoln-specific replacements exist, but there is a way to mod a Mustang's boot to serve the purpose it's supposed to serve, which is to keep water and road debris from going into that hole and rotting out stuff (which is what happened).
Good you replaced the starter; I knew that was something you had to do as soon as it started grinding when you turned the key. But the reason you need to keep wiggling the shifter to start it is because the neutral safety switch, located on the steering column under the dash, is out of adjustment. It needs to be adjusted to get a proper start without wiggling the shifter.
Yes, very likely you have fuel and ignition issues to keep the engine from running like it's supposed to. Maybe adjustments to those will help.
I can give you so much more in pointers, like where the car's biggest design flaws are; but I would short out the comments section trying to put them all here. I am very happy to see that someone besides me had a desire to rescue one of these cars from the grave, so to speak.
Wow that’s a lot of information thank you very much. I should have further videos of the Lincoln coming I bought a fuel pump rebuild kit but it is wrong because it is a two port rebuild kit but I’m having trouble finding all the parts I need. But I did buy a service manual. Thanks so much
@@Sleeperdude Aw, no...I do have a saved listing for a proper pump-rebuild kit on E-Bay. It's still active, which means the seller still has some. I bought one of those kits about three years ago to redo a spare pump I have (which I've yet to do because there's a broken screw in the housing that I need to extract and replace). This is it (hopefully UA-cam will permit it): www.ebay.com/itm/191732531768?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l9372
The listing is now saying that they have only one left. The seller is Mark II Enterprises, one of several specialist sellers of vintage-Lincoln parts.
Keep the videos coming love this car! What a beast love it!!
The s terminal on the solenoid should have voltage from the key in start mode.The I terminal on solenoid goes to the coil to send 12 volts while cranking to bypass resistor.
Spot On
That's exactly what that is
Wow, never heard one diesel for that long! Might've been a world record. Also, my dad said he almost had his arm/wrist broken because of a steering wheel that started turning on its own. He reached through the steering wheel to turn the ignition switch and as soon as it cranked, the steering wheel started spinning. That's a life lesson right there.
Yeah I’ve never seen a wheel turn on it’s own like that I’m glad my arm wasn’t in there.
@@Sleeperdude I've seen engines run backwards and do that. they almost cut off then it kicks at the wrong time and starts up backward running on unburnt exhaust fumes. I got it to stop running by putting my hand over exhaust and cutting it's air off.
The timing is definitely in dire need of servicing. If my guess is right, it's a lot more involved than just adjusting the distributor. Your engine likely still has the original timing gears and chain, the cam gear being an aluminum wheel with a nylon ring gear. That is a disaster just waiting to happen, because it will either cause the physical timing to slip off (bad for an interference-configuration engine like the 462), or it will starve the oil pump of oil when the nylon shards clog up the screen or worse get into the pump itself. Nylon wears out with mere age, not use; but use of an aged piece of nylon will accelerate the break-up. That is actually one of the two design flaws of that engine, and one which was not intended to be a design flaw; at the time they really believed that a nylon ring gear was better as it silenced chain chatter which plagued engines up through the 1950s...but they did not know about the limited life span of synthetics like nylon, rayon, dacron, polyester, etc. You really need to look into all-steel replacements. Luckily, those are easy to acquire. Incidentally, the other design flaw is in the oil pump: It's a regular-pressure, regular-volume pump, which is inadequate for an engine whose roots are in high performance. Because of the reversible heads, the oil flow to the upper half of the engine is restricted (FEs have this problem too, and it's better known with them). The regular-volume pump was barely adequate when it was new; 54 years later, it's totally inadequate. You need to acquire a regular-pressure, HIGH-VOLUME oil pump, which will push more oil at the same pressure through the passages and compensate for the problems in the upper-half lubrication.
I saw a '76 Thunderbird diesel long enough for a man to park in front of a grocery store , walk in and buy some beer - walk back out , turn the key on and drive away without hitting the starter. That thing shook , rattled and ran backwards for at least six minutes, had to have been hammering the hell out of everything in it.
@@Sleeperdude The earlier Ford power steering systems will do that if you connect the hydraulic lines incorrectly. Known a few guys who bruised/broke arms/fingers because of it.
Had a 68 with the 462, drove it many miles. Loved that car
It must’ve cost you a lot of gas
@@Sleeperdude
Wasn't too bad, for what it was. When that motor runs right it's a good fit for the weight so it doesn't have to work hard. The speedometer is a cylinder that rotates.😊👍 PS, also had a 67 2 door. Only 2 462's I ever had any dealings with, not similar to a 460.
This is the first 462 I’ve ever dealt with I had a 460 in a maverick a long time ago I have videos of on here best I ever got was 12 mpg
I have never had luck with any plug but autolite in all the fords I have from 1965 to 2009. Glad to see you catching the antifreeze, with all the farm and pet animals around there I would be worried about one of them ingesting some and getting harmed.
Yep we have to keep the antifreeze away from them
My old boss had the same car . He had it restored. It was black with red interior. He offered me his car . He was willing to trade it for work he wanted done on his welding shop . I never took the deal . I wish now I would of taken the deal after watching you work on this gem of a car .
Yeah they are neat cars
I love your videos! I have learned a lot from you! I like that when you take a shortcut you explain what you are doing and why you can take it! Sometimes you just have to do what you can to make it work! Keep the great content coming!
Thank you I am glad you like it
After watching you I found a 66 bel-air now I have it to work on. Thanks
That’s awesome that was the first car I drove to high school, I wrecked it in 1 month because the rear brakes had been cut by the previous owner
@@Sleeperdude this one is a 4 door and white it is running good after a lot of work
I've seen a lot of these videos and I've never seen anyone use a spring tool on the brakes I didn't even know they existed so good on you
At 2:20 when it goes in reverse I started crying. Reminded me of my old Chevy, idled so high, I swear that car started at 35 mph 😂😂😂... Great video!
Thanks
Excellent video throughly enjoy watching this Lincoln come back to life . Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks
@@Sleeperdude Sweet car. I hope you restore it. Did you try the tilt wheel to see if it's ok?
Why in other videos u use the word cassings but now u talk about tyres why?
@@Sleeperdude why inthis video its tyres other videos its cassings ?
May pops!!!!
You could use that dieseling sound on TikTok with Rocky dancing. $ me later
That’s all I drive on
my dad had a 67 bought it with 4 snow tires and $100 bucks , back in the mid 80's . i wish he still had it .
That’s funny
I always thought that those old Lincoln were just so nice and neat.
They are very cool
Enjoyed the video and you taking us through all the steps to try to sort it.
Thanks
I’m glad you don’t pretend to know everything. I didn’t know what the condenser did either but I have heard that they don’t go bad all that often
Really is a nice old Lincoln. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks I like it too
I am se glad I stumbled on your channel.Nicole UK
Me too
I like that you check everything before taking the car out for a rip. I bought a Corvair van once and by the time I got it home the transmission was toast because it didn't have any oil in it. The dealer who sold it to me wouldn't make it right so I had to find another tranny and install it before I could even drive it 🤬
Man that stinks
Josh it sounds like you got one of the most difficult engine starts I've ever seen probably a meal 430 that engine is hard to work with I wish you all the best man cuz that engine is going to be hard-pressed to work with I hope you get it started cuz that's a beautiful car holla if you hear me
Thank you!!! Happy Thanksgiving 🦃
My grandfather had one like this.
They are cool cars
dieseling do to high compression these old big Lincoln's have hi/comp engines 10.25 to 1 need's 92 oct or better gas. The starter issue is called the Bendex and ya Ford used that same starter on a lot of V8's My grandpa bought the last of the suicide door Lincolns in 69 it was white with black vinyl top he gave it to my dad in the 80's we sold it to a friend in the late 90's he still owns it to day and has fully restored it .It has over 400,000 miles on it !!!
Ok that makes sense I didn’t think of that
And people say American cars don't last if they're kept up they do
Love the old Lincolns
awesome can't wait for next vid
Thank you
No you should not use old parts. Put new parts in a old car in the long run you will be much happier. That Lincoln is a valuable car now
Yep
Had three loved everyone of them...
It’s crazy how much engineering went into those cars
@@Sleeperdude my Dad passed along his Mark III and Mark V...outstanding, tough automobiles! I passed one to my son and one to the youngest daughter they both still sleep them in mint condition! Great video!
Thank you
I’m glad I’m not the only one that beats on my screwdrivers and cracks the handles 👍🏻
😂🤣😂🤣😂
I have a 67 Linc 2 door...i didn't watch the whole thing but feel the need to add my 2 cents. Looks like that motor probably has the original nylon timing gear in it. They crack real easy and the teeth brake off and get stuck inside the oil pickup tube which ends the fun quickly....aside from the numerous vacuum leaks, slack from a deteriorating timing gear will cause stumbling on acceleration
Thanks for the info. We get her running better in the next video of the Lincoln check it out🙂
Remember!!! Use the correct fuel pump. Per Jay Leno THE CORRECT FUEL PUMP
Good idea
Theses cars always did that when you turned them off. Seriously it was crazy. I still laugh when it happens. I Love the car. Great work. Hard work especially while videoing everything. If you can't undo a heater hose clamp try using a dremel if you can reach it with it. I really do like this car and it takes a lot of work to get a car that's been sitting like this going again. I was surprised when he said the idle was too low as I was sure it was a lot too high but I wasn't there and can't really know by watching from a video. Great vid Thank you! After watching for a while more I'm still convinced the idle is too high LOL. But what do I know eh? LOL.
Thanks for watching
Took my 69 for first road trip this weekend (its on my channel)...clutch for fan and u joints...you ought to add those to the list of things to buy!
I've have worked with many friends and their hitrods for the last 35 years. The best solution for that pesky hood latch...
A good tennis ball with a slit in it.
Slit it about 3" long. Then slide it over the end of the latch.
U tell you what, it only takes one trip to the ER to get 8 staples in the skull region, to never allow it again.
Great jobb. Gretings from sweden 😉
Oh cool thanks
It is the same I love older car's and trucks
Me too
Tractor Supply sells a universal cable that works on law mowers and come with a lever,heck they ain't but like 8 bucks,they work great as choke cables.
Great job guys!
Thanks
Great video
Hot rod lincoln! Tennessee powerhouse!!
For sure
Love the videos!👍
Thank you
That engine will not idle (in part) because it has vacuum leaks. I would block the body vacuum at the engine until you can sort out the leaks. Vacuum powered accessories were popular with Ford for half a decade.
Awesome thanks for the info
Have you found where the power steering pump is and how the w/wiper work? Ck out the fuse box is location. I have own several from 1960 to 1966. Enjoy the videos keep at it and good luck,
Yeah these cars are super weird it took me a while to find the fuse box
@@Sleeperdude It was probably embarrassing at first to see that it was so easy to locate. However, the circuit breakers are a bit harder to get to. Hopefully you won't have to any time soon.
Keep an eye on that steering pump. The steering is the biggest design flaw of these cars, and it all comes down to one thing: The spacers on the steering gearbox. They are the root cause of all failures in the steering. The pump is not designed to run dry for any length of time beyond one second; if you do, it will eat itself up (which you will know is happening when you hear it groaning). You always need to keep watch on the level of fluid (which has to be Type F, same for the transmission), at least until you manage to expel every gremlin that has taken up residence in the system. The hydraulic wiper motor is likely frozen after 2 decades, but it can be freed up by simply sweeping the wipers manually one or two sweeps. Now, if you get the wipers running but they won't stop when you turn the control off, that means that a check valve in the motor has seized up in the open position. That is a fairly easy fix once you access it (which can be hard if you don't know where to look). I also advise looking around for a good hydraulics shop in your area who can reproduce the flex lines used in the system; they will eventually need it.
No question, these cars are super-weird; a good 87% of them is exclusive, not shared with any other Ford. Many people learn that the hard way. But it can be fun to get it running again once you unlearn everything you think you may know about Fords.
I bet it rides like a dream
Yes it does
Jeepers! You used the T-word a number of times! I thought this was a family friendly channel! And no goats!
Please forgive me it was before I saw the error of my ways
I love fords....the only thing bad is they don't have the level of...parts interchange that gm. does....I wonder how many of the core items are being reproduced?
Yeah I hate that about fords
My starter On the John Deere would stick like
That I just added a little earl Inside the rusty starter it worked out good
Awesome
Coldwarmotors would say that those tires are brand new
My Classic Tire!
I love this car
I like it too
I would have already put the Dynamite to that damn car ! I would be so mad you would have to put me in a straight jacket, Lol !
Awesome stuff 👍
On the 462 check for bent pushrods. Kind of common on the old Lincolns.
Ok thank you I didn’t know that
it has a nice beat to it.
Sounds like you got one of Ford's easy pop popcorn popper attachment
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Please do more Lincoln Videos!!
There is one coming soon
Motorcraft made 3 different starter heads 2 hole non threaded 2 hole one threaded and unthreaded hole,and the 3 hole ...then they made 2 sizes the 4 inch diameter starter for most 4 cylinders and then the 4 1/2 diameter for all inline 6's and v-8's from the 60's up until about 1996 then they added a 2 solonoid just like GM earlier Ford starters had a long shaft about 6 to 8 inches long with a completely exposed starter drive with 3 holes .....since mostly everything was stick shift
Good info thank you
these were such cool cars
Yes they are
Yes for sure thank you
Nice 30k car keep it clean man
Yes
Never heard of Auto Zone referred to as "Hotrod Hoarders" before. I laughed as hard I spit my coffee across the table.😅😅😅😅👍
Your UA-cam thumbnail for this coulda been YOUR thumbnail.
Great idea
Catching up on some older missed videos!!!
Awesome thank you
I think that’s the same starter that some fords use. Kinda like the one gm starter that they all use.
“I just rebuilt the carburetor two years ago” is pretty much the same thing as “It ran when it was parked”
Hello the noise at the beginning of the video it's the starter
with my 1990 Chevrolet Caprice I had the same noise
I had made a bad connection there was a mass which attaches to the metal which protects the starter
and my mistake I plugged it into the starter !!!
Ok thanks
@@Sleeperdude What was the problems with you starter?
Brilliant video Josh man that car was hard work wasn't it, one thing after another after another doh!! It reminds me of an old priests car or funeral directors car that u see in the films from like back in the 50/60s do u know what I mean like I can see the old priests dressed in there long black cassocks with them old round hats that they used to wear driving that about, lol 🤣 & esp as it's white too lol 🤣 anyway another great video 👍🤘💖 keep up the good work mate luv yr videos
P.S- where did the name "sleeperdude" come from if you don't mind me asking? Xx 😘🤗
It’s because I like ugly grandma cars with big engines
@@Sleeperdude oh right I see , I get it now 👍
Vapor lock?. Sounds like it or maybe fuel pump failure. Either way its beautiful
This the first video where their kids or children or dogs. What did Josh run them away?
I didn’t used to show them as much
Josh 948 in this video I'm disappointed in your language lol you used the t word lol not casings love your videos keep it up 👍
Thank you
Well garage is clear
The best brand of parts is a picture of a house with an ox in it.
What a car. Jeez.
Big girl
As a rule the metric equivalents are only equivalent until it is absolutely essential that they be equivalent.🤣😂
That’s funny
You've still got some major vacuum leaks or burned valves, by the sound of it.
Yeah I still have a lot to work out with that car I can’t believe how complicated they are for a 1967 automobile
@@Sleeperdude they and the thunderbirds are driven by dozens of vacuum connections , under the hood and under the dash , even one little broken connection, say in the heater , defroster or AC can create a miss that will drive you crazy. Been there with a '69 suicide door T-bird. Good luck, I'd love to hear it running right !!
When that car is running and driving as it is supposed to, a brit could drink afternoon tea while driving down the road.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
The asbestos shirt over my mouth line killed me 😂😂😂😂
Rly enjoying the channel!
Glad you enjoyed it
“Springs are STEEE-iffff”…..😅😂🤣😂😅
Man those valves are making a racket
Yep
If...you read this...your plug wires are to close to the manifold...so they will burn if youre not careful. At least thats what happens in the next video! Yes, I did watch them out of order, but I figured if I can catch you now..."now" you can tell "past" you...and you can fix them now instead of in the future...before they burn. 😁 You are welcome...just trying to help.
Great video! Is there a chance part 3 is coming out?
Yes I am just having issues sourcing parts currently
Wow I thought a car this big and this old would have been a body on frame car
Me to
Basically shares with the FE group, probably why starter was 50 bucks
Yes, there are many similarities with the FE-series Y-blocks. That is not to say, however, that most of the stuff is interchangeable, because it isn't; it's just similar in design, but not quite similar enough to swap between FEs and MELs.
I personally prefer O'Reilly electrical components; I've had less-than-impressive experience with AutoZone's stuffs. But that starter is at least a good starting point (pardon the pun).
You shoulda kept the that ole car, and made a sleeper gansta looking ride
It’s a cool ride
Now chamfer that plate on both edges going in so there will be no protrusions on the manifold or the bottom of the carb.
Good idea
I would sandblast the surface rust , treats it with that rust killer on bottom edge ,that looks pretty good and prime the hell out of it and then do whatever
Good idea
@@Sleeperdude it's in good shape I'm just saying to save it yes sir I worked on many and saved many and rebuilt others
You can just wire brush it off and treat it with rust killer and it will kill the rust anyway then prime over it it turns it into a porcelain finish
Okay is that spark knock or is that a knock? That don't sound good
spray some flex seal on the side of the tire.
All ford starters fit 4,6, & 8 up to a certain point. Even Windsor and Trident if you wire it correctly.
I have never heard a gas engine diesel that long.
Me too
Be careful about getting rid of those dirt dobbers. They look like they have been there long enough to set up a HOA.
looks like a California smog motor with all that spaghetti. LOL
I know right
saturate the bendix drive with PB, clean up and probably work ok.
Ok thanks
Running like a finely tuned Swiss watch....if it were made In Detroit.
In Oregon we call those Mud daubers.
Next time the starter overrun after the engine is running, take a hammer handle to the starter silinoid.