Field Growing for Bonsai - Scar treatment
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- Опубліковано 3 лют 2022
- Learn how to prepare and treat large cuts and scars on trees grown in the ground as bonsai material using these tips and tricks demonstrated by Terry Erasmus.
Read my blogs on field growing here: www.bonsaitree.co.za/blogs/tr... and you can also view this full length feature I did on the subject: • Bonsai Field Growing |... - Навчання та стиль
Great video! Very informative, not many videos out there covering this.
Than you! Yes, I’ve noticed that too and so I intend to do more like this. Thanks for commenting.
Another excellent video, thank you Terry from the UK :-)
Glad you enjoyed it. Flattering to know the audience extends to the UK!
How have I only found you now. It's wonderful to find a "local" channel. I only started my journey lately and I'm trying to do indigenous tree as I'm on a farm in the bushveld and have hectares of wild samples to collect.
Thanks Ina! Glad you found the channel too :) Sounds great, you are very luck to have access to such an amount of material. That's wonderful and I wish you the best of luck with it.
Thank you for this video…really excellent and informative. I am a happy subscriber!
Thanks so much Benjamin. 🙏🏻
Thanks Terry! Amazing video. I have some trees which I recently chopped and this is just what I needed to know how to deal with the scars. You are the best UA-camr out here when it comes to showing techniques.
WOW! I am humbled by your comment. I will continue to do my best, thank you for watching.
Hi Terry, these videos in your field growing area are the ones I like the most. I find them very instructive. Thanks a lot!
Excellent advice. I love how thorough you are in your explanations. The videos are great!! Les Lonsdale
Thanks so much Les!
I’ll be field growing all my tridents, palmatums , zelkovas, white birch, thanks to your videos Terry!!! Thank you!
HA ha ha! Its certainly an addictive practise, from time to time I sort out of my collection and put any rooted cuttings etc which are taking up time watering into the ground too to see what happens. Of course field growing is not growing bonsai but I think if you can be part of the entire process from field to pot it makes you a more interesting bonsai artist :)
@@TerryErasmusbonsai it has to be a part, well, if you want powerful trunks it does!! Thanks for the reply!! Cheers!
Those 40+ degree days were hectic! Thanks for the video Terry, always informative
Another awesome vid Terry. Keep up the great work. Every video is so informative 👌🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 thank you very much.
So nice of you! Will do my best William
Thank, education growing to bonsai
Most welcome
Amazing. Clear and lot of info. I share in my channel. Thank you for all you give to us.
Thank you kindly!
Thank you for the video!!!
My pleasure!
Gracias por el video!
My pleasure!
Excellent class.. thanks
Glad you liked it!
Very good video!!!! Thanks
Glad you liked it!
thanks
Welcome
More field growing videos please! Perhaps with pine next time
Thanks John. Unfortunately I do not field grow pines so I will not be able to do this, unless I visit my friends in Japan who do, and then take some videos there. I am happy to do that but COVID currently still prevents me from travelling but I already have a plane ticket :)
Terry Erasmus no worries! Thanks for the great videos!
Informative, thanks
Thank you Lits. Glad you found it informative
I always look forward to any vids about field growing and yours are really my favourites. You have a similar climate to me and use tridents which are amongst my favourite trees to use. Will you be doing any with the celtis? Celtis is another variety that is not used as often in Australia but that interests me as I grew some in the ground some years ago and want to try some more. Also, on that last tree that you cemented, were they approach grafts above the wound you were working on? Were you having trouble getting some shoots in certain spots? I trunk chopped one of my ground grown tridents (a lot smaller than your trees) back hard this season in early summer and it just didn't shoot at all. I have one tiny bud that just looks like it's sitting there trying to shoot but I think by the time it starts to extend it's going to be autumn and too late.
Thanks Justin. Yes, there are quite a few Celtis in the ground there and I am sure I will be generating more content on them. No, the tree you refer to had no grafting done on it. If the chops are done on healthy trees which are growing vigorously, at the end of spring or when the spring leaves have hardened, then you must get new shoots. If this is not so then there must be some other problem however I would be guessing as to what because I've never experienced no response. Let me know your thoughts please.
Hi Terry thank you for the content, after filling the wounds with cement if you scrape to deep past the cambium level will it still calluses over?
Thanks Terry
Tony
Yes it will for sure as there is still going to be cambium either side.
Very instructive video, can you share with us which type of soil you have in your farm, or how is your method when you plant the trees for the first time? and how you deal with the water for your maples to avoid burnt leaves and fungus diseases?
Thanks Sabik. The soil there is very clay with lots of stones too - a real pain when digging! Chinese maples handle full sun, if yours are burning it is not because of the sun it is an imbalance/problem in your vegetative growth and rootzone. I dont have fungal issues as the trees grow closely to fruit trees on the farm and I suspect my trees get spray drift when they spray their trees because I have never sprayed them with anything - I also never feed them. With regards to how I plant them please read this blog post I wrote: www.bonsaitree.co.za/blogs/tree-talk/75247555-field-growing-bonsai-trees
How long does the sealer last and do you ever need to re-apply it?
Good question. I cannot tell you how long as I've not been used Top Jin for more than a few years now but what I applied when I did first start using it is still sound on the trees I applied it to.
I'm in Florida. I have a Red maple (Acer rubrum) we call a swamp maple. It's 20' tall and has a 10" base. I don't think chopping it to 3' tall would kill it, but the flow of sap will be tremendous. Do I get the sealer and cement on it and leave it for a year and then start carving?
The tree is gonna go anyway, I might as well give it a go.
I like learning opportunities like this where you have nothing to lose as it allows you to really push boundaries. Ordinarily I would proceed with caution as I have lost trunks by cutting too low in one step, despite the tree being very healthy and doing the cuts at the right time. Regards sapflow, if the tree is pushing already and you cut it, sealing will help very little as the force of the sap will push through as the sealer will not be able to dry fast enough to prevent it. The best is to cut and seal when sapflow pressure is lower. You can start carving at any time really. Carving just after repotting is not a great idea though due to the movement the carving will create, better to wait till the tree has stabilized.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai so glad you reminded me that the sap flow will slow down in winter. Last winter would have been good with it being so cold. But I just thought of it with this video. I will wait. Thanks so much. For the advice and the idea 💡
Hi Terry, thank you for sharing all of this information🤗 I've tried to find some healing methods and practical suggestions and more than that, I already got an idea to try Makita tool the same as you showed. So, appreciate your sharing.
Another idea I have is to carve a little bit under the cambium layer (say 1cm) on the edges and to lift thin bark+cambium to form the smooth form initially. What do you think about this idea? Thank you😊
Greetings from Ukraine👋
Awesome to know that I have some viewers in Ukraine! All we hear in the news in negative and scary so I am glad you are still focusing on your bonsai.
Thanks for your comments. Sure, there are many ways to accomplish something in bonsai. I am still learning and perfecting my technique after doing this now for more than 15 years.
I think I understand what you mean with the idea of the flap of bark. I have seen this illustrated in books, although a much larger flap, but I have never seen it being performed or what the actual result is as I've only seen illustrations not photographs. I think that if you can do the work fast enough, that the tree has a flexible (young) bark and that the cambium does not dry out while you are busy it has potential. I would certainly encourage you to try it, this is my approach to things - we say in English "Don't knock it until you try it!" Too many sheep out there, don't be a sheep :)
But personally I think the bark flap has a strong chance of simply die'ing back.
One more thing, in my experience if you start the healing process in late spring the initial callous formation is very smooth for that first 1cm or so, then it begins to accelerate and puts on a thicker layer, so I am not sure much would be gained from the extra trouble of the carving etc work.
Hi Terry, I have a 'curb score' Kousa Dogwood stump about 2' in height and 10"-12" wide. After I cleaned it up I realized that it had suffered for years from a strangling root which had killed the main branches that were above it. I removed the root and then saw the damage it had caused. This root caused a slight divot in the trunk and then a huge 2" deep x 8" tall bulge above it. It looks like it has a half a soccer ball (or a burl) attached to the side of the trunk. This ruins any taper potential but I really like how big (wide) the stump is. It has survived the first year in half-shade and I just moved it to full sun field location for the to grow out for several years. What would you do with a nice stump with a giant burl on it? Would you try to grow a couple branches off the burl? Cutting the burl off would basically reduce the diameter to about 6" which I don't want to do. Thanks!
Interesting challenge Robert and without seeing photos its difficult to make suggestions. What I can say is that if you want to work with "odd" material don't attempt to make it look normal, rather emphasize this difference instead of hiding it. What that looks like in practise I cannot really tell you. I would probably leave the burl as is, and not try to grow branches from it, you don't see branches growing out of burls in nature from what I know.
👍
Thank you!
Hi, how you water your field growing trees?
@Ching Vang ha ha. Not quite
Thanks Edward. There is an automatic irrigation system with micro sprayers. This is controlled by a system which supplies the fruit trees in the same area with water.
what is e prablem bi kaus s smen
Sorry but I don’t understand