Thanks Nigel. Yeah it’s not bad, some work will be needed in the coming years on improving the nebari but I like the trunk, trunk taper and movement so I’m excited to develop it further.
Hi Terry, albeit I live in Western Australia, I found your knowledge and the way you have passed this onto us incredibly helpful. Thank you for taking the time to undertake the video, it was about as informative as 18 minutes could ever get....well done.
Holy moly. My parents have a medium sized apple tree that they want to get rid off. Thought it would be a waste, if the saw is going in it anyway, might as well try to make something out of it. This was by far one of the most informative bonsai videos I have ever seen.
Thank you Terry ...I have been hesitating to dig up two trees I' ve had my eye on...afraid I would kill them. You video gives me confidence to go ahead as it is the right time now in my country.
That’s wonderful. Good luck! Trees growing in the ground have tremendous stored resources and are quite resilient when collected. There are exceptions of course.
i have never thought about bonsai, but i watched this because i have a 10 year old japan red maple that came up wild and i left it. i have to move out of my yard because it blocks the sidewalk now. i cut it back severely this spring, looks like i will plan on doing something similar to this next spring.
Thanks Bob. I would rather have suggested you cut back in Autumn. This will produce the most back budding on the tree. Alternatively late spring. Did you not get a lot of bleeding after you cut it in Spring? Regardless it’s done. Japanese maples are not as strong as Chinese maples but you should still be able to collect (wait until buds swell) your next spring. I’m sure the directions I have can be followed as is and should give you a positive outcome. Good luck! 👍🏻
@@TerryErasmusbonsai hi terry, i cut back the portion blocking the gate from opening after it was in full leaf, and i didn't pay attention if there was any bleeding. but it has put out new growth this summer. the other thing i am thinking is to run a shovel around it now and root prune while still in the ground to decrease the shock of digging it up in spring? the trunk is 3 inches diameter, so it seems to be a substantial tree, and there must be a tap root under it by now. i have 3 others that need to come out if this one fails...
Thank you so much! My first fan in Korea perhaps 🤔 😀. I would love to visit your country some day. From what I see you have really great food and excellent bonsai, what more does one need!
Thank you for the very informative clear teaching on lifting a field tree although I didn't understand the part where you soak the tree and what was that
Hi Gary. Thanks for the comment. Soaking the tree is meant to allow it to absorb liquid which will help it to avoid drying out until it is able to produce its own roots. I have commented on the tablets many times in other comments on this video, please check it.
Thanks so much Sven! This tree was featured again in this video Update on 10 exciting bonsai projects, Winter 2023 ua-cam.com/video/N2g4rKEuBFQ/v-deo.html
Hey, thanks for this very interesting and well structured video ! I just died out a tree and this video helps me a lot to higher the chance that this tree will survive, even if it is late summer and its a Juniper. Btw in another video I heard sphagnum moos could be a good growing material in this cases too. Best greetings from Berlin
Thanks Phix! Sphagnum moss is a great medium yes however you need to understand what the objective is. For air layering its the best as it holds a lot of water and considering the bag or container typically used for layering is small it will hold enough water till you can make it back and wet it again. However in this case sphagnum moss is the last medium I would use because it hold so much water. At the moment the faster the drainage of the medium the better as this introduces much more air into the rootzone and encourages healthy root development. I would encourage you to use a very fast draining medium for your juniper too. This would be pumice, hyuga, lava, crushed stone etc. The less water retentive the better.
Excellent video Terry. Very informative. Think it should show everybody how easy it is to collect a field grown tree. When do you start to feed the tree, and do you give the tree any "supplements" to help it to recover from the repotting? And do you immediately start to develop the tree with the new growth or do you first let the tree establish itself and recover?
Great video Terry, I’ll be collecting a silver birch soon and I wasn’t going to bother removing the soil till next spring but now think I’m confident enough to do it properly straight away as you say it will be more beneficial to the tree
Thanks Rob. I’ve not collected silver birch and I don’t know if they’re different to collect to this species ie Chinese maples. I suspect as it’s deciduous using the process as I demonstrated it should be fine.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai what’s your thoughts on collecting deciduous trees in autumn? Some people say it’s safe but they use the black bin bag over the top job….. where as collecting in spring when the buds break you obviously have more of an idea that the tree is recovering well
Very informative, can’t wait to try this. One question, I planted some privet saplings last year intending to put them in pots sometime in the future. Do you recommend putting a flat root barrier underneath to discourage deep tap roots?
Great work, the quality of information is excellent, thank you very much for inspiring and helping us to improve our practices. Greetings from Argentina
Ha ha, thank you. I was sweating quite a bit to get it out and carry it - it was pretty heavy! Glad what I am trying to say communicates well though. I don't work from a script so its all ad lib.
You were giving very thorough and clear instructions, thank you for that! Simply just had to subscribe, like and share your channel! Keep up the good work!🤘😎👍
It is only really possible with trees which are very strong, such as those grown in the field as these are. I treat it essentially as a giant cutting as there are no roots.
Thanks for your interest! Here is an update on a bunch of projects including this maple. Update on 10 exciting bonsai projects, Winter 2023 ua-cam.com/video/N2g4rKEuBFQ/v-deo.html
Excellent explanation, I have one question, is it possible to make a bonsai from an olive tree, which is more than 70 years old, about 5 meters high, how drastically should the roots be cut and the height shortened? I'm thinking whether I should dare? What should I watch out for perhaps? Let me mention that the olive tree was already taken out of the ground because it should have been thrown away. I will be grateful for any advice.😊
Thank you for watching and for the question. The age and height is not a problem, many olives I have collected are older than this. Cutting the trunk is fine, you would just need to carve the stump afterwards. What I am not sure of is how severely you can reduce the root system as it depends on the stored nutrients. However if you do not cut them aggressively you will not fit the tree in a pot. If the tree was destined for the bin then you stand to lose nothing. Do what needs to be done and hope for the best.
Thanks for watching. It’s Disprin, or also know as Aspirin. It’s medicine taken for headache, pain, to reduce inflammation etc. It contains acetylsalicylic acid. This is why one adds willow branches, however the medicine contains the same acid extract so it’s easier to use the tablets.
Oh thank you I thought that's what you said but I wasn't familiar with disprin. Aspirin I know well, my wife claims I give her headaches quite often 😆.
Great video but i have a question: if you put spagnum moss on top of the soil, pure pomice for example (to protect superficial roots and to retain water in summer) you disable the ability of air passing throught the soil? Thank you very much
Great question Nicola. Sounds in theory what you wrote could be a problem but I have not experienced this. I do not however put moss on these trees, only more ramified trees where there are more roots. I cannot remember what I said exactly in the video, I believe I said one can do it if you are afraid of the media drying out too fast.
Thanks for watching. It’s Disprin, or also know as Aspirin. It’s medicine taken for headache, pain, to reduce inflammation etc. It contains acetylsalicylic acid. This is why one adds willow branches, however the medicine contains the same acid extract so it’s easier to use the tablets.
Hello Terry, another great video and very nicely looking future trident bonsai, thanks. Question: Would you consider putting a clear plastic bag over the stump for the first few weeks? and does it help?
Thanks Alex! No need for a plastic bag, the tree buds profusely without it. Bags can help for some species which require the additional stimulation of the increased humidity though. Must be in shade though if in summer or you will cook the tree.
hey terry super nice and educative video again...A friend of mine lives in the south off france and has some green and white oaks on his territory that he would like to make bonsais from....is it a good idea to remove them from his forrest, cut them down to size and put them in wooden boxes? meaning....would that be ok, or should they be cut to size first and then be removed from the ground?
Thanks Koen! Considering that there is no rush to remove the trees I would consider cutting them down to size and allow new growth to develop and largely heal any scars created. Once in a box or pot the ability to heal large wounds is greatly diminished as growth is slower. Once the wounds are largely healed I would then remove them from the ground an put them in boxes for further development. The best time to make the cuts will be either late spring or early autumn.
Thanks DK, I do sharpen it occasionally but considering the ground it works in I’d hardly say it would act as some sort of cutter. I do get through the thinner roots with it but the thicker ones definitely require a lopper.
Depends Marc. Its more about protection from wind really. As it has no leaves currently, and as the sun is very weak this time of the year anyways thats not too important. Let's say not more than 1 month.
Hi Graham. Yes, affectionately known as Boon’s mix. You’re welcome to visit me anytime Graham, been too long and neither of us are getting any younger 😉
Hi Terry Erasmus. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. In fact, this video is really good, informative and well made. Still I have two questions. 1:You mention that it’s a good time of the year, for digging up a tree. I also think that you mentioned South Africa. Currently my son lives in Cape Town. Southern Hemisphere vs Europe. I’m in Denmark, and it is the start of fall(September) and winter only a few months away. Do that make a difference? 2: what is your experience with cat litter vs acadama? Here it’s about 20% the price, and you can purchase it anywhere.
Hello Frank. Thanks for the compliment. 1. Yes it does. You do this work in early spring around the time when you would normally repot. 2. I do not use cat littler, never have, and I have read many bad things about it. As I’ve not used it myself I am hesitant to repeat the experiences of others. Best do some of your own work with it and see the results. I can suggest something to you though, use LECA which is the baked clay pebbles but use the 2-4mm crushed type not the whole balls. Combine this with peat moss (if possible with long fibres). You can experiment with ratios but we use 70-80% leca with 20-30% peat. It’s not an akadama substitute! Nothing is the same as akadama, it is unique in many ways. But for development trees like this one in the video this mix I describe is perfect.
Thank you for your knowledge and work in making these videos! I am spying to dig up a neighbor's conifers/junipers that he is looking to remove to build a wall. I think if I can save 1 or 2 of them I can maybe let them recover and graft extra branches on next year. Do you think this might work?🤔 I saw in the video that you said I should save as much of the root mass as possible, and I will try to. But regarding the foliage, should I remove some of it or should I keep all of it? Sorry for asking, I'm a bit confused on how conifers/juniper look and work sometimes 😅
My pleasure. Glad you enjoy them. Yes what you describe can work for sure. This video was done for deciduous material and NOT for conifers though. Definitely keep as many fibrous roots you can. If the canopy is massive then yes reduce it but you need to keep as much foliage as possible as this is where the energy is going to come from to form the new roots. You will need to mist as often as possible to keep foliage moist. Bright shade exposure out of the wind. You will know in about 6 months from collection whether the tree has made it or not.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thank you Terry, I will set up a mister for in the hottest time of the day, and I'll keep as much fibrous roots and foliage as possible! I really appreciate you answering my questions! Hope you have a nice weekend!
I’m curious about the cycle of fertilization of field grown trees. I know that the seasons are different from where you live versus the US. I’m in California (Ag zone 9b), so early March is the beginning of Spring. Would you suggest a 5-5-5 or 10-10-10 NPK granular fertilizer?
To be honest Jeffrey, I don’t fertilise them 🫣. However under normal or best circumstances you should feed them throughout the growing season with a well balanced fertilizer although you might want to go pretty high on the N value though. I prefer using organic fertilizer but in a farm setting this is tough due to all the critters which steal it. So yes, slow release chemical would be good too.
I wouldn’t be able to say Scott. I have usually used wood, but as I don’t have access to mica pots I’ve not used them. Not sure if there is much difference between mica and plastic, plastic I’ve used and it’s fine but wood allows me to build something for the specific tree.
This process is what scares me most in Bonsai - i think i'm about to ruin some great great material, but i'm going to try it anyway - thank you for your advice!!
Bogdan, thanks for watching. I’ve been doing this for many years now, so I am not nervous when I dig the tree up as I know it’s going to be fine. However there is always a risk, no matter your amount of experience. You may kill trees along the way but I think if you follow these easy steps you will reduce the risk, and one should always see how you can reduce the risk as much as possible.
What would you suggest for trying to grow a tree in 100F weather. I have heard from other channels that you should water everyday for a year and that I should prune my dead leaves to propagate new ones. I would say my soil drains fairly well
Interesting question Galahad! You do need to consider other seasons too though. If you use a lot of water retentive medium in summer, it will likely cause root rot in winter (or whenever your rainy period is). You could try putting a layer of chopped sphagnum moss on the top which will help with water retention, but you can remove it when its raining a lot. However watering daily or even twice daily is the life of a bonsai enthusiast in summer though. Pruning dead leaves is a good idea as they are unsightly but you would simply get more unless you address the reason they are dead. Assuming this is due to a freak heatwave, well there is not much one can do except try to shade them and mist the trees as often as you can.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thank you this really helped. I live in California so it doesn’t rain to much. During rainy season it didn’t seem like it needed much watering the heat has just been really brutal.
Hello Martin. The pill added to the water is also known as Aspirin. It’s medicine taken for headache, pain, to reduce inflammation etc. It contains acetylsalicylic acid.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai ok ok Terry I got this, since English is not my first language it was difficult for me to understand that specific word, I thought it could be aspirine but I wasn't sure. Thanks for sharing it, I'll try your method on my next yamadori. 😉
@@martinkinley8989 perfectly understandable about the language. I am not sure if the addition of the pills works, but it’s so easy to add, costs almost nothing and as I am going to soak the tree I might as well do it even if it only helps a tiny little bit. Good luck!
I am sorry Tim, I don’t know. I am not sure why it would be best to collect them in autumn though. If I were collecting them it would be as with all other deciduous trees; in early spring. But I’ve never collected any of these species so I cannot say from experience
I've watched hundreds of bonsai videos and I've never learned so much in one video before.
Sloet, you made my day. Thank you Sir!
Same! subbed!
Thank you so much!
Same here.....Subbed 1 year later 😊
Thanks Debbie! Better late than never they say ☺️
Great work Terry, the tree is off to a good start!!
Thanks Nigel. Yeah it’s not bad, some work will be needed in the coming years on improving the nebari but I like the trunk, trunk taper and movement so I’m excited to develop it further.
Hi Terry, albeit I live in Western Australia, I found your knowledge and the way you have passed this onto us incredibly helpful.
Thank you for taking the time to undertake the video, it was about as informative as 18 minutes could ever get....well done.
Thanks so much David. I really appreciate that! That’s very kind of you.
I hope you find some of my other content equally helpful.
Thank you! Very informative mini documentaries of great quality. Much appreciated!
Glad you enjoyed it Steve! Thanks so much. 🙇🏼♂️
Holy moly. My parents have a medium sized apple tree that they want to get rid off. Thought it would be a waste, if the saw is going in it anyway, might as well try to make something out of it. This was by far one of the most informative bonsai videos I have ever seen.
That is awesome! Thanks so much for letting me know.
very well done video Terry, I've been watching lots of bonsai videos and I could listen to you for hours
Thank you, that’s a great compliment!
Great info Terry. I only have 1 large field grown tree and this will for sure make things easier.
Max
Thanks Max, I am glad it is helpful to you.
Great video! Can't wait for an update on the trident's condition!
Thanks so much! This tree was featured again in this video Update on 10 exciting bonsai projects, Winter 2023
ua-cam.com/video/N2g4rKEuBFQ/v-deo.html
It would be great to see a video on how you would air layer your field trees.
Great information
Thank you
Noted! I will do something this season I believe.
This video is so helpful. Thank you for taking the time!
I've been diging trees for a few years now, and new things keep popping up that are worth trying, thank you
That’s great Pavel. I also learn new things all the time and that’s what bonsai so great!
So much information in a short time. Thank you.
Thanks so much 🙌🏻
Great video, thank you. What a great trunk. This is going to develop into a beautiful bonsai in time!
Thanks so much. I think so too, but it’s a long road ahead 😄
Excellent tutorial! 👍
Glad you liked it!
If I was a Bonsai, I would love to be in your garden! Good explenation!
Ha ha. 🤣 thank you.
Just got my first trident maple cutting to root that’s a beautiful tree cheers
Thats great, you will enjoy developing it.
Thank you SO MUCH for an excellent video! Looking forward to watching more of them 👍😊
More to come!
Thank you Terry ...I have been hesitating to dig up two trees I' ve had my eye on...afraid I would kill them. You video gives me confidence to go ahead as it is the right time now in my country.
That’s wonderful. Good luck! Trees growing in the ground have tremendous stored resources and are quite resilient when collected. There are exceptions of course.
Wonderfully helpful, from start to finish. Thank You. Nice background music, soothing, but not overpowering.
You're welcome Rita! Thanks so much for the encouragement.
i have never thought about bonsai, but i watched this because i have a 10 year old japan red maple that came up wild and i left it. i have to move out of my yard because it blocks the sidewalk now. i cut it back severely this spring, looks like i will plan on doing something similar to this next spring.
Thanks Bob. I would rather have suggested you cut back in Autumn. This will produce the most back budding on the tree. Alternatively late spring. Did you not get a lot of bleeding after you cut it in Spring? Regardless it’s done. Japanese maples are not as strong as Chinese maples but you should still be able to collect (wait until buds swell) your next spring. I’m sure the directions I have can be followed as is and should give you a positive outcome. Good luck! 👍🏻
@@TerryErasmusbonsai hi terry, i cut back the portion blocking the gate from opening after it was in full leaf, and i didn't pay attention if there was any bleeding. but it has put out new growth this summer. the other thing i am thinking is to run a shovel around it now and root prune while still in the ground to decrease the shock of digging it up in spring? the trunk is 3 inches diameter, so it seems to be a substantial tree, and there must be a tap root under it by now. i have 3 others that need to come out if this one fails...
@@bobs5596 good idea with root pruning. But in my opinion for a deciduous tree it’s not necessary.
Excellent Video and Awesome Tree
Thank you very much! 🙇🏼♂️
Nice work Terry. really enjoyed this!
That’s wonderful Tony! Thanks for the support.
Wow, That's a great video. I will always cheer for you in Korea I'm looking forward to a great video. Have a nice day.
Thank you so much! My first fan in Korea perhaps 🤔 😀. I would love to visit your country some day. From what I see you have really great food and excellent bonsai, what more does one need!
good video, concise delivery of infomation, thank you
Thanks Dan, I am very glad you found it so.
Thank you for the very informative clear teaching on lifting a field tree although I didn't understand the part where you soak the tree and what was that
Hi Gary. Thanks for the comment.
Soaking the tree is meant to allow it to absorb liquid which will help it to avoid drying out until it is able to produce its own roots. I have commented on the tablets many times in other comments on this video, please check it.
Great video content Terry and what a tree!! Marvellous 🌳 I learned a great deal in this video so thank you for sharing
Glad it was helpful Mike! Thanks so much Sir.
Fantastic growing tips, very inspirational presentation."Love Your Work"
Thanks so much John, very kind of you.
Fantastic tutorial. Thanks, keep growing
Many thanks Matt. I’m hooked, no stopping now 😃
This is going to be a beautiful tree! Trunk line is awesome
Thanks so much Sven! This tree was featured again in this video Update on 10 exciting bonsai projects, Winter 2023
ua-cam.com/video/N2g4rKEuBFQ/v-deo.html
Hey, thanks for this very interesting and well structured video ! I just died out a tree and this video helps me a lot to higher the chance that this tree will survive, even if it is late summer and its a Juniper. Btw in another video I heard sphagnum moos could be a good growing material in this cases too. Best greetings from Berlin
Thanks Phix! Sphagnum moss is a great medium yes however you need to understand what the objective is. For air layering its the best as it holds a lot of water and considering the bag or container typically used for layering is small it will hold enough water till you can make it back and wet it again. However in this case sphagnum moss is the last medium I would use because it hold so much water. At the moment the faster the drainage of the medium the better as this introduces much more air into the rootzone and encourages healthy root development. I would encourage you to use a very fast draining medium for your juniper too. This would be pumice, hyuga, lava, crushed stone etc. The less water retentive the better.
I'm glad I found another good bonsai channel. Love your vids mate.
Welcome aboard Luke! Thanks so much. 🙇🏼♂️
Nice and majestic trunk more success to your channel. Bonsai Noy from Philippines
Thanks for visiting and for your kind comments!
Excellent video Terry. Very informative. Think it should show everybody how easy it is to collect a field grown tree.
When do you start to feed the tree, and do you give the tree any "supplements" to help it to recover from the repotting?
And do you immediately start to develop the tree with the new growth or do you first let the tree establish itself and recover?
Thanks Stephen for watching and commenting. Appreciate the questions, they’re great! Mind if I do a video on that as an answer rather than write?
Onya Tez! That was awesome mate. Can’t wait to see this tree in years to come
Thanks very much Andrew. Yeah I’m excited about it’s future too.
Thank you , really appreciate this Video and your other videos , very clear precise , now looking for some trees to dig .
Best of luck Tas! Its such an amazing process. Enjoy!
Great video Terry, I’ll be collecting a silver birch soon and I wasn’t going to bother removing the soil till next spring but now think I’m confident enough to do it properly straight away as you say it will be more beneficial to the tree
Thanks Rob. I’ve not collected silver birch and I don’t know if they’re different to collect to this species ie Chinese maples. I suspect as it’s deciduous using the process as I demonstrated it should be fine.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai what’s your thoughts on collecting deciduous trees in autumn? Some people say it’s safe but they use the black bin bag over the top job….. where as collecting in spring when the buds break you obviously have more of an idea that the tree is recovering well
Very informative, can’t wait to try this. One question, I planted some privet saplings last year intending to put them in pots sometime in the future. Do you recommend putting a flat root barrier underneath to discourage deep tap roots?
Thanks Steve. Sure. You can do that. Makes it easier to dig out and also encourages horizontal rooting.
Great work, the quality of information is excellent, thank you very much for inspiring and helping us to improve our practices. Greetings from Argentina
Greetings Romina! Hope you are well in Argentina. I’m so glad you find it helpful. That makes me want to do more 😊
Brilliant video! Very informative and helpful.
Glad it was helpful Alex!
Finally found a professional who speaks English amazingly.
That’s very kind of you to say. Thank you 🙇🏼♂️
really great video. Such a good information and quite clear makes it appear easy!!!!!!
Ha ha, thank you. I was sweating quite a bit to get it out and carry it - it was pretty heavy! Glad what I am trying to say communicates well though. I don't work from a script so its all ad lib.
I am a new subscriber, I have watched a lot of bonsai videos but yours is the best, thank you for sharing 👍
So nice of you to say that, I am truly honored.
very informative Terry ... finally i can have successful yamadori ...
Excellent! Good luck Rudewaan!
You were giving very thorough and clear instructions, thank you for that! Simply just had to subscribe, like and share your channel! Keep up the good work!🤘😎👍
Thank you so much! I will certainly try to keep the quality up and the content interesting.
Wonderful work Terry 👏👏👏
Thanks so much Rolando!
Can’t wait to see the update of these tree in the future, thanks for sharing.
You and me both! I will certainly share though.
Thank you Terry, I've collected a lot of trees over the years, some great tips as always from your good self, keep up the great work :-) :-)
Thank you! Well I’m sure if you’ve done a lot of collecting you could share some tips with me too!
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Learning all the time with each new season :-)
@@razor2ts that’s the way it should be for all of us, for ever.
And the start of another amazing tree Terry, did I see a Juniper next in line😂thanks for the great content.
You bet Wesley, thanks so much! Yeah there are a few junipers there....
How does the tree look now? Great video Terry!
Thank you very much. There is a short update on this tree in this video: ua-cam.com/video/N2g4rKEuBFQ/v-deo.html
Awesome, thanks for the quick response 😊
My pleasure, good luck!
Excellent tutorial! Loved it. I learned a lot. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful Patricia! Thanks for watching.
Amazing how you can strip nearly all the branches and most of the roots and it still survives
It is only really possible with trees which are very strong, such as those grown in the field as these are. I treat it essentially as a giant cutting as there are no roots.
Anothere beautiful video, Thank you Terry
Thanks for watching Oussama!
Looking forward to the update!
Thanks for your interest! Here is an update on a bunch of projects including this maple. Update on 10 exciting bonsai projects, Winter 2023
ua-cam.com/video/N2g4rKEuBFQ/v-deo.html
@@TerryErasmusbonsai I just watched it! Can't believe I missed it before posting this comment! I guess my Hawkeye for detail is slipping in my age.
@chasingthefish9042 ha ha ha. Don’t be so hard on yourself, nobody is perfect. 😉
is there a video following this up? I’d love to see how’s this bonsai doing
Yes there is but not exclusively on it. ua-cam.com/video/N2g4rKEuBFQ/v-deo.html
Un grand merci à vous pour le partage de votre expérience!
Merci d'avoir pris le temps de regarder !
greetings bonsai lovers from Indonesia
Thanks so much Mas! Greetings to Indonesia. You have some amazing talent in your country. Hopefully one day I will visit there.
proses yg bagus, pemindahan bahan bonsai dari alam👍👍👍👍👍God joob
Terima kasih atas komentarnya, saya menghargainya.
Nossa que trabalho que dá. Mas é gratificante seu trabalho.
Muito obrigado! Obrigado
Excellent explanation, I have one question, is it possible to make a bonsai from an olive tree, which is more than 70 years old, about 5 meters high, how drastically should the roots be cut and the height shortened? I'm thinking whether I should dare? What should I watch out for perhaps? Let me mention that the olive tree was already taken out of the ground because it should have been thrown away. I will be grateful for any advice.😊
Thank you for watching and for the question. The age and height is not a problem, many olives I have collected are older than this. Cutting the trunk is fine, you would just need to carve the stump afterwards. What I am not sure of is how severely you can reduce the root system as it depends on the stored nutrients. However if you do not cut them aggressively you will not fit the tree in a pot. If the tree was destined for the bin then you stand to lose nothing. Do what needs to be done and hope for the best.
Excellent video!
What was the tablets you put in the water? I couldn't quite hear it clearly. Thank you.
Thanks for watching. It’s Disprin, or also know as Aspirin. It’s medicine taken for headache, pain, to reduce inflammation etc. It contains acetylsalicylic acid. This is why one adds willow branches, however the medicine contains the same acid extract so it’s easier to use the tablets.
Oh thank you I thought that's what you said but I wasn't familiar with disprin. Aspirin I know well, my wife claims I give her headaches quite often 😆.
Very informative video. You have gotten a new subscriber here 😊
Thanks so much!
Great video but i have a question: if you put spagnum moss on top of the soil, pure pomice for example (to protect superficial roots and to retain water in summer) you disable the ability of air passing throught the soil? Thank you very much
Great question Nicola. Sounds in theory what you wrote could be a problem but I have not experienced this. I do not however put moss on these trees, only more ramified trees where there are more roots. I cannot remember what I said exactly in the video, I believe I said one can do it if you are afraid of the media drying out too fast.
Great vid Terry. Do you know how long it took the tree to grow to that size?
Good question! I’m not entirely sure but I grew it from seed. I’m guessing 10 years to max 15 years.
Very useful video, Terry. Pleased to have found your channel - yes, subed and liked. What were the dimensions of that wooden box?
Thanks Roger. Uhm don’t know off hand but I believe around 60cm square.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thanks. That seems right. And about 20 deep?
@rtregear no I think it’s a little deeper. Probably more like 30-40cm
Good video, question pls, when should I do seme with olive tree. Thank you
Usually spring is a good time. There are other times but spring is best.
Great video, thanks for sharing, I´ve learned a lot!.
Glad to hear it!
Great video thank you ! What was that tablet you added to the water for root recovering?
Thanks for watching. It’s Disprin, or also know as Aspirin. It’s medicine taken for headache, pain, to reduce inflammation etc. It contains acetylsalicylic acid. This is why one adds willow branches, however the medicine contains the same acid extract so it’s easier to use the tablets.
Absolutely fantastic video!!
Thanks so much Sabik!
Thanks for the instructional video
Glad it was helpful!
I love what you did !
Thank you Samir!
Hello Terry, another great video and very nicely looking future trident bonsai, thanks. Question: Would you consider putting a clear plastic bag over the stump for the first few weeks? and does it help?
Thanks Alex! No need for a plastic bag, the tree buds profusely without it. Bags can help for some species which require the additional stimulation of the increased humidity though. Must be in shade though if in summer or you will cook the tree.
Thanks a lot! Unfortunately I can´t plant on the ground, I´m going to use 150L pots, lets see how it goes..
Good luck Carlos! Next best thing to planting in the ground is a large wooden box on the ground, in contact with the ground.
Brilliant as always!
Thanks so much! Appreciate it.
TIL - Disprin derives from willow. I came to expand my knowledge of bonsai, and learned so much more!
That’s great!
That’s great!
can you show some videos of how the trees look now please? thanks
Thank you for the request. Sure! I will do so in spring.
this tree is gonna be so good
If I can do anything about it yes, thanks so much 👍🏻😊
hey terry super nice and educative video again...A friend of mine lives in the south off france and has some green and white oaks on his territory that he would like to make bonsais from....is it a good idea to remove them from his forrest, cut them down to size and put them in wooden boxes? meaning....would that be ok, or should they be cut to size first and then be removed from the ground?
Thanks Koen! Considering that there is no rush to remove the trees I would consider cutting them down to size and allow new growth to develop and largely heal any scars created. Once in a box or pot the ability to heal large wounds is greatly diminished as growth is slower. Once the wounds are largely healed I would then remove them from the ground an put them in boxes for further development. The best time to make the cuts will be either late spring or early autumn.
again a great video, thanks alot. greetings from izmir Türkiye
Thank you too for watching Izmir!
Really want to see that tree with leaves!
😂 Ok, you will. It’s starting to bud now so you will need to be patient a little longer Gerardo. 😃
Thanks, Terry. Super video as always 😄😄🇩🇰
Thanks Finns! 😃
Thanks for the information
My pleasure Groglor!
Very good material bonsai.. Thank is the videos.. Good luck sir
Thank you too!
Hi Terry, enjoyed the video. Do you put a sharp edge on your spade? You seemed to get through those roots fairly easily.
Thanks DK, I do sharpen it occasionally but considering the ground it works in I’d hardly say it would act as some sort of cutter. I do get through the thinner roots with it but the thicker ones definitely require a lopper.
Great Video Terry! Just out of interest, how long do you think it will take you to develop this tree from Field specimen to Final developed tree.
Michael thank you. That’s a tough question to answer. I’d have to say around 15 years if I do everything right.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai wow thanks Terry, that a lot of work and time! But it will be worth it in the end!
@@michaeltheron6428 bonsai is a marathon, never a sprint. This applies particularly to deciduous bonsai. They take a LONGGGGGG time.
Thanks Terry very informative
My pleasure adkenzo!
Great video, Terry!
How long do you keep the tree shaded for?
Depends Marc. Its more about protection from wind really. As it has no leaves currently, and as the sun is very weak this time of the year anyways thats not too important. Let's say not more than 1 month.
Hi Terry, thanks for sharing - is your growing medium pretty much the Boon mix? Hope to visit you in the new year
Hi Graham. Yes, affectionately known as Boon’s mix. You’re welcome to visit me anytime Graham, been too long and neither of us are getting any younger 😉
Hi Terry Erasmus.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
In fact, this video is really good, informative and well made.
Still I have two questions.
1:You mention that it’s a good time of the year, for digging up a tree.
I also think that you mentioned South Africa.
Currently my son lives in Cape Town.
Southern Hemisphere vs Europe.
I’m in Denmark, and it is the start of fall(September) and winter only a few months away.
Do that make a difference?
2: what is your experience with cat litter vs acadama?
Here it’s about 20% the price, and you can purchase it anywhere.
Hello Frank. Thanks for the compliment. 1. Yes it does. You do this work in early spring around the time when you would normally repot. 2. I do not use cat littler, never have, and I have read many bad things about it. As I’ve not used it myself I am hesitant to repeat the experiences of others. Best do some of your own work with it and see the results. I can suggest something to you though, use LECA which is the baked clay pebbles but use the 2-4mm crushed type not the whole balls. Combine this with peat moss (if possible with long fibres). You can experiment with ratios but we use 70-80% leca with 20-30% peat. It’s not an akadama substitute! Nothing is the same as akadama, it is unique in many ways. But for development trees like this one in the video this mix I describe is perfect.
Thank you for your knowledge and work in making these videos! I am spying to dig up a neighbor's conifers/junipers that he is looking to remove to build a wall. I think if I can save 1 or 2 of them I can maybe let them recover and graft extra branches on next year. Do you think this might work?🤔 I saw in the video that you said I should save as much of the root mass as possible, and I will try to. But regarding the foliage, should I remove some of it or should I keep all of it? Sorry for asking, I'm a bit confused on how conifers/juniper look and work sometimes 😅
My pleasure. Glad you enjoy them. Yes what you describe can work for sure. This video was done for deciduous material and NOT for conifers though. Definitely keep as many fibrous roots you can. If the canopy is massive then yes reduce it but you need to keep as much foliage as possible as this is where the energy is going to come from to form the new roots. You will need to mist as often as possible to keep foliage moist. Bright shade exposure out of the wind. You will know in about 6 months from collection whether the tree has made it or not.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thank you Terry, I will set up a mister for in the hottest time of the day, and I'll keep as much fibrous roots and foliage as possible! I really appreciate you answering my questions! Hope you have a nice weekend!
Fantastic, I will be looking out for updates on this one.
@@antwonevis5249 great! Good luck.
I’m curious about the cycle of fertilization of field grown trees. I know that the seasons are different from where you live versus the US. I’m in California (Ag zone 9b), so early March is the beginning of Spring. Would you suggest a 5-5-5 or 10-10-10 NPK granular fertilizer?
To be honest Jeffrey, I don’t fertilise them 🫣. However under normal or best circumstances you should feed them throughout the growing season with a well balanced fertilizer although you might want to go pretty high on the N value though. I prefer using organic fertilizer but in a farm setting this is tough due to all the critters which steal it. So yes, slow release chemical would be good too.
Would Mica or a wood pot be better? I just pulled out a Japanese maple. It’s soaking now with willow leaves
I wouldn’t be able to say Scott. I have usually used wood, but as I don’t have access to mica pots I’ve not used them. Not sure if there is much difference between mica and plastic, plastic I’ve used and it’s fine but wood allows me to build something for the specific tree.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thanks Terry! I used wood
@ScottTheExperimentalist cool.
This process is what scares me most in Bonsai - i think i'm about to ruin some great great material, but i'm going to try it anyway - thank you for your advice!!
Bogdan, thanks for watching. I’ve been doing this for many years now, so I am not nervous when I dig the tree up as I know it’s going to be fine. However there is always a risk, no matter your amount of experience. You may kill trees along the way but I think if you follow these easy steps you will reduce the risk, and one should always see how you can reduce the risk as much as possible.
teşekkürler çok iyisiniz bu işte
Thank you so much!
How is it now? Can you make a follow up video?
Thank you Pratik. It’s doing fine. I did some thread grafts on it as well. Hope to do a follow up on it soon.
Thanks Terry 👍
My pleasure DR!
What would you suggest for trying to grow a tree in 100F weather. I have heard from other channels that you should water everyday for a year and that I should prune my dead leaves to propagate new ones. I would say my soil drains fairly well
Interesting question Galahad! You do need to consider other seasons too though. If you use a lot of water retentive medium in summer, it will likely cause root rot in winter (or whenever your rainy period is). You could try putting a layer of chopped sphagnum moss on the top which will help with water retention, but you can remove it when its raining a lot. However watering daily or even twice daily is the life of a bonsai enthusiast in summer though. Pruning dead leaves is a good idea as they are unsightly but you would simply get more unless you address the reason they are dead. Assuming this is due to a freak heatwave, well there is not much one can do except try to shade them and mist the trees as often as you can.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thank you this really helped. I live in California so it doesn’t rain to much. During rainy season it didn’t seem like it needed much watering the heat has just been really brutal.
From Indonesia came to see the bonsai
Thank you!
Hi everyone, sorry but I couldn't get what you added to the tree in the minute 4:40. Did you add aspirine?? Thanks and greetings from Uruguay
Hello Martin. The pill added to the water is also known as Aspirin. It’s medicine taken for headache, pain, to reduce inflammation etc. It contains acetylsalicylic acid.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai ok ok Terry I got this, since English is not my first language it was difficult for me to understand that specific word, I thought it could be aspirine but I wasn't sure. Thanks for sharing it, I'll try your method on my next yamadori. 😉
@@martinkinley8989 perfectly understandable about the language. I am not sure if the addition of the pills works, but it’s so easy to add, costs almost nothing and as I am going to soak the tree I might as well do it even if it only helps a tiny little bit. Good luck!
pls specify what tablet you put to the water for the tree to recover fast..
Hello Marilou. Please read the other comments, I have answered this several times already.
I’m am in the uk and I want to collect a hawthorn, beech and oak I have read that these species are best collected in autumn is this correct?
I am sorry Tim, I don’t know. I am not sure why it would be best to collect them in autumn though. If I were collecting them it would be as with all other deciduous trees; in early spring. But I’ve never collected any of these species so I cannot say from experience