THE ULTIMATE EXTRA HEAVY DUTY HOSPITAL GRADE 20amp-125v GFCI QUAD BOX EXTENSION CORD ?!
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- Опубліковано 24 гру 2021
- In this video, I do my first electrical project on my own. I think it came out great and was alot of fun. It also got me thinking about future little electric projects.
Enjoy!
SUPPLIES:
EXTRA HEAVY DUTY 20A-125V HOSPITAL GRADE GFCI
www.amazon.com/dp/B019A300IY?...
HEAVY DUTY HOSPITAL GRADE 20A-125V DUPLEX RECEPTACLE
www.amazon.com/dp/B003ATOLXA?...
12/3 CABLE
www.menards.com/main/electric...
15a GREEN GLOW PLUG
www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-1...
GANG BOX WITH GROUND BUMP
www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-Cit...
GROUND SCREW
www.homedepot.com/p/Commercia...
CORD STRAIN RELIEF for 1/2 KNOCKOUT
www.mcmaster.com/69915K64/
TOOLS:
KLEIN LINEMAN - GLOW IN THE DARK!
hausoftools.com/products/klei...
KLEIN JOURNEYMAN MULTI-PLIERS
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
KLEIN TESTER
www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Too...
SUPPLIES:
EXTRA HEAVY DUTY 20A-125V HOSPITAL GRADE GFCI
www.amazon.com/dp/B019A300IY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
HEAVY DUTY HOSPITAL GRADE 20A-125V DUPLEX RECEPTACLE
www.amazon.com/dp/B003ATOLXA?...
12/3 CABLE
www.menards.com/main/electrical/electrical-cords-surge-protectors/extension-cords/cerrowire-reg-sjoow-portable-power-cable/282-3603a3/p-1444439080901.htm
15a GREEN GLOW PLUG
www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-Round-Dead-Front-Plug-Clear-R50-515PV-LIT/205165460?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_D27E-G-D27E-027_002_WIRING_DEVIC-NA-NA-Feed-SMART-2181312-WF-New_Engen+PL3&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_D27E-G-D27E-027_002_WIRING_DEVIC-NA-NA-Feed-SMART-2181312-WF-New_Engen+PL3-71700000082410799-58700006989412248-92700062912530177&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw6u1iL799AIVv2pvBB3hNwtwEAQYASABEgI_XPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
GANG BOX WITH GROUND BUMP
www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-City-1-Gang-4-in-New-Work-Metal-Electrical-Wall-Box-with-Ground-Bump-521511234GB-50R/206166843
GROUND SCREW
www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-10-32-UNF-Thread-Grounding-Screw-Green-10-Pack-G30002-PK10/310741863
CORD STRAIN RELIEF for 1/2 KNOCKOUT
www.mcmaster.com/69915K64/
TOOLS:
KLEIN LINEMAN - GLOW IN THE DARK!
hausoftools.com/products/klein-tools-d20009neglw-side-cutter-linemans-pliers?_pos=12&_sid=610b5b57a&_ss=r
KLEIN JOURNEYMAN MULTI-PLIERS
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J46PC2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
KLEIN TESTER
www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-GFCI-Receptacle-Tester-with-LCD-RT250/313832938?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_D27E-G-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-Feed-SMART-2181312-WF-New_Engen+PL3&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_D27E-G-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-Feed-SMART-2181312-WF-New_Engen+PL3-71700000082410808-58700006989412257-92700062912530339&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIicfPov799AIVgs53Ch2MoQClEAQYASABEgLvD_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Zz
Your dad was not concerned about cool factor.... he made a device to work with. The garage decorators will want the cool one. For the NEXT version of this, one can use a dust/explosion rated box, such as by Edwards/Signal. Then it would be a RailRoad grade extension cord!
@@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936 Yea Ive gotten alot of feedback on what I should have done. I think I eventually will make another one to please the haters. RAILROAD READY, I like it
@@THEMIDNIGHTCHOPPER where did you get the cord you used in the video
Love it and want to build my own. I’m a electrician so watching this made me cringe a little but to be honest you didn’t do half bad so good stuff man.
Hahahaha. Well, thanks. First electrical thing Ive ever done. Fun little build.
I recommend using a weather proof box and grommet for the cord to go through if you intend to use it outdoors a lot.
The only problem I see is you said you got 12/3 but all you need is 12/2 and one major problem is you can plug in a 20 amp application to your extension cord but it could be in a 15 amp circuit you can tell if the recep is a 20 amp by the way the hole looks like it is winking at you
@@evanmason4967 Not always because a lot of times 15amp receptacles are used on 20amp circuits. The only true way is to look at the circuit breaker that feeds the plug.
@@KevinBenecke reading comprehension. "You can tell if the RECEPTACLE is 20A..."
My goodness you made a simple job extremely hard.
Thank you
I retired from a large ( 550 bed ) hospital. Facilities always used the Cadillac of devices HUBBELL but contractors used the cheapest brand hospital grade . Big difference. We had a $5,000 tester that would measure the force required on the ground pin when removing UT from the HG receptacles. Also checked polarity and resistance between found & the neutral wire. Every time we replaced a HG receptacle in patient room or the OR had to use this tester and document it.
That’s pretty interesting. Yea I am a nurse so I see these red plugs all day. Thanks for the info.
@@THEMIDNIGHTCHOPPER The red receptacles are feed thru ATS'S ( Automatic transfer switches ) that in event of what we called lost of normal power the generators must come on line and transfer all red receptacles along with life safety circuits & critical power witin 10 seconds. At our large hospital we had 4 genertors in original building and 3 generators in large addition. We also were very lucky to be close to utility substations and had four 13,200 volt incoming services. JACHO requires that only 50% of the elevators be on emergency back up power but all of our 19 elevators were tied into emergency power. In my 50 great enjoyable years working as a sparky found that I enjoyed working in a caring progressive hospital the most rewarding.
I also know that hospitals typically have a redundant power from another power grid. I’m not sure if this is a requirement but I know it’s a good thing in case there is a catastrophic event on the main feeding grid to the hospital.
@@adrianfillmore5818 I am an electrician in a large hospital and we do have two feeders to the hospital, one "dedicated" and one "shared". At this time they are both fed from the same hydro one transformer station off the same buss...They were in separate busses but recent rebuilding of the station removed one set of distrubution busses..
It is possible and has happened where both feeders into the hospital have gone dead.
@@REWYRED The hospital in Murray Utah uses the Murray city power which is a private power company. The other is connected to a Wyoming power grid. I also know that that have a rather large generator bank which is code. You are a sparky so I’m not telling you anything you don’t already know.
A 4”x4” standard electrical box you used is also called a 1900 box in the electrical trade. Since it is a metal box, I would use electrical tape around each outlet to protect it from the bare ground wire hitting the hot wires. Also, they sell reducing rings to reduce the size of the hole in the electrical box to make it the smaller size that you needed. It is a nice extension cord box but OSHA would not allow its use on commercial/industrial worksites.
Good info
I was taught to always wrap electrical tape around my outlets. Good habit to have imo.
@@americansmark it’s unnecessary and in wet environments is actually bad as it will trap moisture. The only time is if it’s a single gang metal box where things can get tight, especially if it is installed with F clips.
I have seen these on worksites numerous times. I am curious what OSHA would have against them (other than lack of certification)... If it is a relatively recent change or more importantly if it is one of those things an inspector would only be concerned with if there was an actual complaint. Admittedly I have not worked trades since the mid 2000s, and things change. I still see contractors using them, but surely no contractor would ever bend and break rules :)
@@mattlewandowski73 i
Also, the newer inventory of 4”x4” metal covers already comes with the mounting hardware nuts and bolts already properly sized so you don’t have to cut longer bolts to fit
the tabs he pulled off the industrial cover already had "nuts" connected to it. the decora side only has one because the bottom of a decora receptacle/switch and GFI have the plate on the bottom that will act as the same thing but companies still include 4 screws and nuts with it
Makes perfect sense. FYI, red receptacles in a hospital do not necessarily mean they are "hospital grade". It means, in a health care environment, that they are on an emergency power circuit along with red light switches
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Many places other than just hospitals require "Hospital Grade", not that you don't know that or even have to know that, depending on what protecting your living requires. I'm generally Technical Support, both independently or when requested by an mfgr or GC or whatever. I've successfully kept my a$$ out of any water, including hot, by always recommending hospital Grade, in writing for anything I'm connected with, both directly or tangentially. Most times it's poo-poo'd for one reason or another. Seen a lot of people regret it. That includes employees, which should be excluded by the county or state, but they're not. The theory is know the laws regardless of who you are, leave lawless sires and employers, and if you don't, hire a lawyer to fight your fine or you're work suspension or license censure. Best wishes to you. Hope this finds you, and finds you and your family well!
i might have to build one of these to keep on my truck for using with the inverter, and for use with my generator when camping or when working on projects, great video, and yeah, as you said, this thing should last a good long wile, and be useful for ever
It was a fun little electrical build.
Nice job! I dig the red outlets!
Thanks !
Now if you clean it and sand and tape it off, and spray with bed liner, it will be cool! Give it a water resistance, and prevent rust!
Not a dig on your work at all, tackling something you've never done is absolutely rewarding.
It came together very nicely and looks great!
But I couldn't help laughing when you made the hook for the ground and you straightened it out and bent it again instead of twisting it 180.
Good call.
Just thought exactly the same 😆
Nice job!
Great! Now call and get a UL inspector to come to test and list your assembly. Extension cords are required by law to be tested and listed by an approved agency. They will happily come and do that service for you. BTW, about 15 years ago, I got a quote of $2,200 for them to look at an assembly we had to custom make. The problem is, it will not be approved. The box and cover used are not tested and listed for extension cords. The receptacles are not tested and listed for extension cords. The plug used is 15 amp rated and the receptacles are 20 amp rated. It is in NEC that you can not use 20 amp devices on 15 amp branch circuits. If the branch circuit breaker is 15 amp, then plugging in would be a violation of NEC as well.
Can you use it, sure. Can others use it? Not unless you are ok with possible law suits for someone getting hurt or worse.
Always be safe! The life you save may just be your own.
Ughhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ok.
Kevin, I've seen your name appear on many videos that I've also watched. You are always very respectful and obviously very knowledgeable and offer useful comments. It's appreciated, as there's alot of rude knowitalls commenting.
@@surferdude642 I worked for 35 years in electrical design. The last 21 years were for a top 15 in US electrical contractor as Sr. Design Engineer, project manager, license holder. I taught many many people that last 21 years to be all they could be in the design field. Many successes a few not so successful. I was always willing to help anybody. Caused me many late nights sometimes. Retired now, but still willing to help someone. When someone tells me I am stupid and don’t know what I’m talking about is when things change. Thank you for the comment! Good ones seem hard to come by sometimes. Respectfully, Kevin
@@KevinCoop1 Thank you for sharing.
@@surferdude642 If you need an opinion on electrical, just ask. Best wishes to you.
Woww galing mo ah bebu hehe good job and nice san miguel mug!
Does box itself get hooked to ground ? As you put ground wires to its case, so does there need to be a external wire grounding ground to building ground rod ?
What makes them hospital grade is the pressure of the “clamp” inside the outlet that “grabs” onto the plug end of electrical devices. I’m paraphrasing but it’s the tightness that the outlet holds onto the plug ends inside the receptacle.
It does have a tight snug fit.
I don’t think that is correct. Hospital grade is “we’ve done the certification testing and you’re paying for it”. You’re thinking of Commercial grade, which is the same thing without the standards. Also these are red to signify that the circuit is generator backed up.
@@Ididerus Hospital grade refers to grip strength; red refers to backup power (life support systems only); green dot indicates isolated ground.
this is exactly it; more contact tension -- they want to ensure the receptacle can hold on to the plug of vital medical equipment so it/they won't fall out, and they are only required in patient bed locations, critical care areas and designated locations for administering anesthesia.
@@z185284 The green dot identifies "Hospital Grade".... An orange device with a triangle indicates isolated ground...BUT, they can be any colour, as long as they have that triangle.
Nice build. U are the man.
Noice
Nice quad box. You should get decades of use out of that. One thing I do different is to use the plastic outdoor boxes and just file off the mounting tabs. They are dust/water proof at least up to the outlets. Doesn't sound like much difference but that 2" of waterproof can make a difference if you spill a bucket of water on the ground or use it outside and will keep out metal filings or dust from entering the box. I have found them just as strong as the metal boxes for banging them around.
Second thing to keep in mind is that the GFCI only protects upstream of the outlet, water infiltration into that box or a damaged cable downstream isn't protected. You can get GFCI plugs that would protect the whole assembly.
(edit) Also thought I'd mention that these quad boxes, although in use on just about every live sound stage in existence, are not technically code compliant. Whether using the metal box or the outdoor plastic one, both of those boxes are listed for permanent installation so using them in a portable setting is a violation as they are not listed for that purpose. I have never seen anyone called for it on stage but they technically can. Also for professional use, most inspectors in the US want to see SOOW cable while SJOOW is fine for CANADA. For those of you who don't know the difference, SOOW is like wrestling garden hose for the same gauge wiring as it has much thicker and tougher (and heavier) insulation.
Yea a lot of people are mentioning a plastic outdoor boxes. I’ll have to look that up. Thanks.
this was a shop class project for me 20+ years ago .. that quad box is used every single day .. if you dont have one you def need one
You got it.
Now im no electrician but there is alot of extra work done in this video great idea and i just might copy this one
Don’t buy Hospital grade, it’s the same as commercial grade but certified, so you’re paying extra.
No, you're paying for the certification, even if the quality is the same. And if you're working somewhere the certification I'd required, you better have it. Stick to something you know, if there is anything. You're effing dangerous.
Love this video - was getting "kid playing with tools in dad's garage" vibes the entire time, lol
Oh yes.
If you’re making a 20 amp box you should have a 20amp plug on the end of the wire not a 15amp.
Yea
15 amp outlets are actually rated for 20 amp circuits. Look it up.
@@dougmorgan510 share your source instead of telling someone to look it up.
If you’re certain you should have no issues sharing your source
@@Jsuttar the NEC says you can put 15 amp outlets on a 20 amp circuit. As for a 20 amp plug. You would never be able to use the box you made up because rarely will you find a 20 amp outlet in any residential application.
@@dougmorgan510 yes 15 amp on a 20amp circuit
Not 20amp on a 15amp circuit.
He should be using 15 amp outlets with a 15amp plug
I just finished making my own quad box's. I use to do sound and lighting events before C19 killed it. It was fun... Its called a J-Hook. Ha! The thing I did with mine is spray some of the liquid electrical tape in case something gets looses and doesn't try to short something.Some just use 3M electrical tape but I live in AZ and that could get messy in the summer. Nice job!
Hey thanks a lot for watching and the tips. Much appreciated!
@@THEMIDNIGHTCHOPPER No problem. I also failed to mentioned I did use some Loctite on the screws.
You mean before democrats policies killed it?
Your Dad's IBEW card was SO cool ! Cheers.
To be honest this was super frustrating to watch as an experienced controls technician. At the same time I give 100% respect to you for going outside your skill set to learn. We have all been there! Good job! Excellent job on the plug.
Thanks
I heard the red outlet was because it's on the backup circuit, so if there is a power outage, the generator will powder the outlet, I only wired orange, IG isolated ground outlets, for computers , but about any outlet in a bright unusual color really stands out!
True, in a hospital all red outlets are hooked up to generator backup, white ones not.
What makes this hospital grade is the green circle on the receptacle.
Thanks for sharing you grandpas on IBEW card. I’m retired from local #48, out of Portland OR. Thanks again!
Appreciate it.
I built one of these myself several years ago after seeing one in my brother's garage. Working in metal fabrication, I snagged an empty welding wire reel from the dumpster and mounted my box to it.
Nice. I gotta get a little welder and do something.
I tech school we were told its good to tape the plugs since its in a metal box. But looks good man
Nice. Yea I’ve heard that so far. Next time.
If you swipe a magnet on your screwdriver in the same direction a few times it will magnetize it I always did that trick to keep screws holding onto the screwdriver
I have one similar that my dad (IBEW301) but it is a plastic box that is watertight.
However I should probably upgrade to gfci.
Also red plugs in hospitals are hot when the generator is on.
If using it outdoors, do yourself a favor, spend a couple more bucks and use a weather proof box. Get the strain relief with threads to fit the box, and use a gasket under your cover plate. Silicone on the box plugs is great too. Play it safe.
I like that idea. Maybe I should do a new video with a box like that. Thanks for the info.
Or just use a weather proof box to begin with. They have everything needed to make them weather proof.
@@THEMIDNIGHTCHOPPER By NEC code all receptacles must be temper proof and for outdoors must be weather resistant with heavy duty bubble cover. Hint, red outlets means emergency backup power.
@@KevinBenecke I think we should all remember that this is dudes 1st electronic diy. The fact that it didn't explode when plugged in is successful beyond comparison in my eyes lol, my 1st electronic project was very smokey. I have come a way since then and agree, he should do a follow up video making his already awesome extension weather resistant. 1st time on my part seeing any of his videos, but if this is truly his 1st electronic project.. well let's just say it wouldn't surprise me to know he shares bloodlines with electricians, he has good natural instincts and problem solving skills.
There are reducing washers that can be used if you have a box with a knockout that is bigger than that of the fitting you are installing. There are also box seals that you are supposed to install if you have a knockout that needs to be closed up.
Good stuff! Love the confidence and willingness to share. Keep going!
Also looks like the fine folks at @StudPack have inspired a mini genre of "gang box videos".
My electrician dad would go out of his way to show or explain how to perform electrical work. Always said they can steal my jib but never my knowledge.
Yep. Clearly copied from StudPack without attribution.
its illegal assembly per. OSHA. dont build it.
I made one before but i used an outdoor rated non metallic box with outlet covers.. The covers are great because they keep the the dust out when not in use.. The outdoor rated box is also better than the metal because they weigh less and are non conductive.. Because why would you want to touch that box in the event that if became grounded?
Think about it.
You are grounding it to the metal housing. that you have to physically pick up. And since you are not using metal conduit that potential will be there to shock the guacamole out of your pooper scooper.
Edit..I understood that the GFCI is there to cut off power.. But the scenario I'm talking about is one in which part of the wire came lose and was touching the box.
Thanks for the info my man.
Metal box is fine if it is grounded properly.
Love it
I have been doing electrical for over 15 years so I know from experience how to do things like you are doing in the video efficiently. It's a lot easier to trim off the parts of the yoke to make it fit inside the industrial cover and then put on the pigtails before you connect it to the grounds in the box. You can terminate all the pigtails to both devices and then put the cover and finally do the connections and close everything up. It's also easier to remove the tabs off the yoke so it will fit inside the industrial cover. You are supposed to use 6-32 screws for devices rather than 8-32. Another thing is you broke off too much of the tab on the receptacle . Also, those things you took off the industrial cover are like a built in nut so you can screw the existing 6-32 device screw into it. You break them off then use them as a nut behind the yoke of the receptacle.
Thanks for info. First electrical thing I’ve ever done in my own.
Good info. I think ill eventually make another one and use all the constructive criticism I have gotten.
@@THEMIDNIGHTCHOPPER You still did a good job especially for your first project. It should last years as long as it doesn't get really wet or covered in dust.
Nice to meet another Golden
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
I always loved the red color for some reason
Love the red
Nice, inspired to make one, because I have some pesky ghosts I want to get rid of.
Hahahaha. Do it.
I made a couple 50' with a 20A plug, 20A commercial grade receptacles but with a 3 gang PVC box and a triple duplex cover... P/N "RDRC-20-3"...
They may be plastic but will take some abuse.
Nice.
@the midnight chopper where did you get the cord you used in the videos
Menards
Good video. I don't get the gloves, though? Is it cold out?
It was a little chilly
I made mine using submarine hyprophone cable that was rubber coated, shielded with 7 leads, so 3 for each conductor and 1 lead for ground besides the shielding.
Nice. Yea this was pretty fun building. I’ve used it a lot with recent renovations I’ve been doing. It would be fun to make another one with all the “constructive” comments on the video.
I want to make one for an auto detail setup..
but I’d prefer a non metallic box, which I have no idea how I’d ground in a non metallic box. Also, would it be possible to fill the box, once 100% confident it’s made proper and done, with epoxy to seal the entire thing?
Not sure. There seems to be millions of UA-cam electricians here. I’m sure they’ll fill you in.
@@THEMIDNIGHTCHOPPER I know right. I think I’ll dub them ArmchairSparkys 😂
You can get a Leviton 3059 rubber box for this. You wouldn't want to fill the box with epoxy - think about it, the receptacles aren't sealed themselves.
@@chanceltw it’s all good, I’ve found a UL tested 25’ gfci W split chord that’s amazing. Made by Firman and is exactly what I need instead of doing this. I appreciate you letting me know though!
I use those “snap off” ears as washers. Also wrap some electrical tape outside of each receptacle. Because of the metal box.
Noice
Thank you for sharing. It’s a great work and a very useful tool. I would have started by fitting the two receptacles in the upper plate and cutting off the ears before the cables were plugged. I will try to build it myself, following your video.
Regards from Costa Rica
Stud Pack???
Compared to other Pro-Plus solutions from Leviton...the hospital variant has a stronger retention method and the red signifies it is intended to be used on circuits powered by redundant sources (such as generator).
Goood info.
Awesome San Miguel Beer mug
Salamat
1:27 seeing your grandpa's IBEW card gave me tears as I recently lost my dad and he was a (A) journeyman @I.B.E.W. for 35 years😢
My dude, they have, the hospital grade GFCI WITH Usb type C and regular usb. Ultimate is a stretch for that no nightlight no usb charging thing.
I know man. Gonna maybe have to make a new one w a nightlight and a usb c now since new iPhones use that charger.
Showed up in my recommended. Always curious about those hospital outlets.
They got a tight fit.
One thing daisy chain the grounds from cord to box then plug to much wire in box the fewer the connection the better and no wire nuts in a box that will see ruff use can loose over time.
Thanks.
Nice Wilton. Don't know why but I got a thing for Wiltons lol.
They’re so damn sexy!
Great idea - however, not quite ultimate. The NEC does not allow that type of box for portable use, due to the possibility of one or more knockouts coming loose after rough handling and falling out, exposing the wiring inside. A solid cast aluminum double gang box of the outdoor variety would be preferable as the ports are threaded, and the plugs can be put in more permanently. I'm not sure the NEC likes that much better, but the plugs can be put in with red or green Loctite, and will never come out. The best solution is the rubber boxes from Leviton or O.A. Windsor designed and approved specifically for portable cord use. Much more pricy, however.
I’ll have to check that out.
Another NEC violation is using a NEMA 5-15 plug to supply a NEMA 5-20 receptacle. Not sure why he didn't just use 15 amp receptacle and GFCI, much more common. Also red is used to denote a receptacle that is on a backup power source. For normal outlets, best to stick with black, white, and almond to avoid confusion. Orange and Blue are also denote a special purpose receptacle.
I usally make the ground wire a tid bit longer than the other wires.
Sounds good.
What makes it "hospital grade" is the tension of the outlet slots. So the plug won't pull out so easily.
Why the gloved hands?? It must be really tough work.
It was cold
In the UK red power outlets are red if they are on a UPS or Generator supplied circuit. We also use red connection wall boxes for fire alarm systems.
Yea I wonder.
@@THEMIDNIGHTCHOPPER ??? You disagree with my comment ???
NEVER TIGHTEN DOWN ONTO THE INSULATION!!!! Thats how fires start, it causes the connection to not be clamped securely on the copper and therefore creates heat and then you have problems. Also i know this is a few months ago, but hopefully it can be addressed before its too late. @17:07 when you say thats too much, its actually perfect, by cutting off more it caused you to clamp down onto the insulation.
Yea I was wondering about that. I did give it a pretty tight twist. It did leave a good indent. Maybe I’ll make a new one with all this *constructive* criticism.
isnt the receptacle just an outlet? what exactly makes it hospital grade?
Cures cancer
@@THEMIDNIGHTCHOPPER lol
the red outlets in hospitals have power from generator in case of power loss
UL has issued warnings using metal boxes with pre-press K.O. for this purpose. The K.O. can get pushed in and cause shorts and/or allow access holes that fingers can go into. UL has issued a ban on them. They do allow boxes without prepresed KOs.
Cool
Work all day and night till next morning (sun up, sun down, sun up) 😉... good box
It appears that you got the LINE and LOAD reversed. On the GFCI the LINE is where you connect the power coming in from your Breaker Panel and the Load is where you connect power going to the second outlet. If you do not do this correctly, the second outlet will not have GFCI protection...
Interesting
You are mistaken. There is always a sticker covering the load side terminals on a GFCI and in the video he connected the load side to the other receptacle with jumper wires. He had already connected the plug in cord conductors to the line side.
Get the box powder coated?
Hmmm
Now if only you used 10ga,, made it 5 times longer. had 20 amp plug and outdoor covers and coated the box with thick rubber or vinyl. Oh and an inline circuit breaker
To add onto the other things said about hospital grade recepticals is they have an isolated ground so that if there is ever a ground fault it goes instantly back to the panel and knocks out the breaker instantaneously so no one is injured
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You should have electrical taped the outlets after you put the screws in
Yea I’ve heard that
Not a bad build with one significant and possibly hazardous mistake. You used 20A outlets with a 15A plug and 15A rated wire. The 15A plug will work when plugged into a 20A outlet which will allow more current than the plug and cord are rated to carry. A lit plug was also unnecessary because the GFCI has a built in light that indicates that power is present at the GFCI. 20A circuits should be wired with 10ga wire.
Thanks for the info.
Yeah, you make great points. I feel like you have never made an extension cord and you just go to the store and buy a pre made cord. His cord is better than a store bought extension cord and I think you are jealous of his cord he made because it is better than the one you have.
@@uhjyuff2095 I've made lots of extension cords including one that is used for Halloween that has at least 8 boxes on it and is over 60' long. I completely rewired my garage with multiple outlets and light fixtures and the city inspector found only a single error, a junction box that was 1" too close to the outside sheathing. That took three minutes to fix. I also rewired the AC side of my RV to power almost all of the outlets from an inverter when shore/generator power fails or isn't available. This was necessary to keep my dialysis machine powered when I was hooked up to it.
Overloading electrical wiring is one of the most often overlooked errors when making extension cords. I would have considered his ultimate extension cord a much safer (and possibly less expensive) build if he had used hospital grade 15A outlets to match the plug and cord. I suspect that in actual use it doesn't make a difference which outlets were used because he probably has nothing that actually uses a 20A plug.
@@psherman36 Nice save at the end! I have made this mistake of running a dedicated circuit for an 20 amp appliance and instead of using a single receptacle I used a duplex. it works, but having the extra receptacle would overload the rating on the circuit/receptacle, if someone was to remove that appliance in the future or something.
Extra heavy duty? I saw a DIY one with armored cable :D
Where's the IG supposed to discharge?
These are not IG receptacles. The insignia is a green circle (hospital grade) not a green triangle.
I was making these 30 years ago!
Hell yea
i have the exact same wood pen cup at my workbench.
Cool
I have one my father in law built with SJ cord about 50’
Nice.
cool..glo in the dark..
Super cool
Did you watch that Stud Pack episode? Thinking someone should make a silicone, rubber, OtterBox type bumper covering to snap over the duplex box maybe with a built in handle and/or hook?. Would be cool
Hahahah. I did watch it! He clearly knows a thing or two. But I wanted to make my own and I had a handful of the supplies. Thanks for watching.
That’s a good idea.
Look up portable outlet boxes. Basically what you're asking for...
been doing things like this for 45 yrs, just read a few books. easy
Nice.
I need something to build next.
Can you plug that extension cord to any outlet?
Yes. It has a typical 3-prong outlet.
What if that outlet is a 15amp outlet
@@hectorrey3308 honestly I don’t know. But I plugged it in to some outlets and it works.
Eh not to med spec I believe each outlet is a seperate breaker
@@hectorrey3308 If it were plugged into a 15 amp outlet and you tried to pull more than 15 amps from it, the breaker at the panel would flip. If this were used on a job site, I'd probably plug it into a 20 amp circuit so that it wouldn't be as likely to flip. I hope I answered your question!
provided the receptacles you're using are self-grounding (which yours are - you can tell by the brass tab on the bottom screw) you could have just grounded the box with the line ground since it's a metallic box. there's never a reason to ground both the box and the receptacle. if it were a nonmetallic box you could just run the ground pigtails off the line.
Thanks for the info
@@THEMIDNIGHTCHOPPER there is a reason for bonding both…… over time and abuse people tend to not due preventative maintenance on their tools and eventually screws get loose and the cover falls off the box but everything is still attached via the wiring but your main box is now no longer grounded or I’ve seen thee entire face cover go missing since the old school covers had less mounting holes to hold you outlets attached….so now you have ungrounded box with outlets just floating around on the end of the wires and people continue to plug into the outlets…… some grab the metal box while trying to navigate the cord end into the outlet that’s floating and flopping around……long storie short throw a bond (green) screw on any separate metal part of a metallic electrical system! P. S I’m a 40 year commercial electrician and seen this a hundred times….. use pvc box and wp in use covers if you want to minimize this hazard risk
you should have used a 20 Amp plug since you have 20 AMP outlets
Yea
It’s not cheap. It’s about $75-$80 in parts. I suppose it’s a good little project and something that will last a looong time. Worth it i think.
Yea it wasn’t super cheap
The plug needs to be hospital grade also ( Green Dot), if your going that route. Also ,In California you can eliminate isolated grounds. "Red" is emergency power. Red is always hot emergency or city power. "Orange" is for isolated grounds. Retired Biomedical Engineer.
Green dot indicates hospital grade, green triangle (or orange device) indicates isolated ground
Interesting to me that my dad joined the navy years before your Grampa got his qualifications, and I didn't think you appeared to be that much younger than I am. Guess my dad was 40 when he had me, and I'm about that now.
I’m 36.
@@THEMIDNIGHTCHOPPER guess your Grampa had your dad younger and then your dad must have had you fairly young too, and my dad had me when older.
@@THEMIDNIGHTCHOPPER thanks for showing how you do it over the pond.
I think they both were 25 when each son was born.
What makes those outlets different is the fact that they have an isolated ground specifically designed for sensitive equipment
Nice
Green dot does not signify isolated ground, orange outlet or green triangle does. The markings also only indicate "how" it should be wired, meaning for isolated ground outlets, you would run an isolated ground wire all the way back to the panel to avoid the common ground path.
Always give any receptacles or switches a “courtesy wrap” of electrical tape. Especially in a metal box, it’s just added security that you don’t get a short circuit between ground or neutral to hot. Also makes it safer if it is ever taken apart while hot- reduces risk of an accident
Ive heard that recently. Thanks.
@@THEMIDNIGHTCHOPPER It’s a solid build that far exceeds anything I expect from a homeowner. Well done.
Why would you use 20 amp outlets with a 15 amp plug? Why would you make an extension cord for 20 amps when most residential applications are 15 amp?
Because I can.
You'll notice that all 20 amp outlets are also 15 amp outlets. Best idea in the world? No, but it'll be fine for those "most residential applications" you're speaking of due to the backward compatibility. It's technically possible to plug a 20 amp appliance into this extension cord and draw 20 amps from a 15 amp circuit. That's not awesome.
Local #728 I.B.E.W proud, next time use a deep true square 1900 box, your box fill is way to tight. But you didn't have any shorts or sparks when you plugged it in. But for future builds , definitely deeper box
Thanks my man.
Save space. You don’t need to pigtail the grounds to the receptacles with that cover as long as box is bonded.
That setup looks like it costs more than some of the tools that are gonna be connected to it! Careful where you leave it, lol.
All he has to do is wrap some duct tape around the wire in various spots and no one will touch it.
Why didn't you just use bond jumpers?
I don’t know what that means. And I’m not an electrician, first time I did anything electrical related. So that’s why.
@@THEMIDNIGHTCHOPPER For your first time, that wasn't bad at all. I didn't know that, so that is why I asked. LOL For future reference, what we down here in Georgia call a bond jumper is a pre-made, green, stranded-wire with an eye/screw on one end, and a "fork" on the other. I believe that you can find them on Grainger under "grounding pigtail". When I am installing two receptacles, I will put three of them under one screw. One for the incoming ground wire (cut the fork off to go under the wire nut) and one each for the receptacles. It makes life a breeze.
Thanks for the tip. Yea I guess I have seen a bond jumper before. Next time!
I'm gonna add clamps to temporary connect to lineside of utility.
Nice
That's an interesting idea actually, connecting to "non consumer" power so that you can work while maintaining it!
You commented about not being sure what was different about hospital grade outlets. Per UL, they are subjected to more stringent testing for reliability (as well as other tests that all equate to more reliability and durability). In essence you paid far more for the outlets than you needed to, but for a small project like this it equates to less than I spent yesterday on a burger for lunch. Since you are not likely to be using this extension cord for life support equipment, the certification of durability by UL vs standard UL certification of outlets does not really amount to much, and you are plugging it into unknown outlets as it is. Personally I think you would of been better off with a longer length of cord for it (I would personally go no less than 25 and preferably 50 feet since your plug limits you to 15 amps (with a 20 amp plug, you would need to step up to 10g or better wire to get a 50' run)... It appears you have maybe 20 feet there), but for being your first electrical project, well done.
Thanks for the info. I’m a nurse, so I see red plugs all day long. That’s also one reason why did the “Hospital Grade” style.
You can not put a 15 amp male plug on circuit that is rated for 20 amps.You need a 20 amp male plug.
👍🏽
You can put a 15Amp plug on either 14AWG / 15 Amp circuit, or on a 12AWG / 20 Amp circuit, You can not put a 20Amp Plug on a 14AWG / 15 Amp circuit. ( You go up, but not down )
If it fits, you can plug it.
@@jimbrown3115 I think you mean receptacle and not "plug" if so you are correct.
How hard would it have been to put conduit on that quad in the middle of your bench? Sloppy violation.
Yea I’ll clean that up for ya bud.
The routube channel @everydayhomerepairs has a video series where he cuts open various grades of recepticals and shows the physical differences. Consider giving it a watch in you're curious what makes them "hospital grade".
I will. Thanks a lot.
watching you fumble through this has permanently scared my psyche.
I want you to know that.
Thanks for the content.
also... i just want to add..... this thing costs near $160 to make.....
If I have permanently scared your psyche then I have won. Thankyou. As for the supplies...Strain relief: $4.79 (for two), Grounding screw $1.91 (10-pack), Metal Box $1.38, Plug $7.71, 12/3 Cable $15.30, 20amp duplex $12.42, 20amp GFCI $29.94. Thats about $73.45 + tax. The hospital grade GFCI was by far the most expensive piece.
ahhhh yes the most important tool a nerf jolt