Creality CR-10 V2 Review - Big Brother to Creality Ender 3
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2024
- Chuck reviews the CR-10 V2 - Big Brother to the Creality Ender 3. The CR-10 V2 is the latest large 3D printer from Creality. It has many features including a larger build area than Creality Ender 3. Chuck shows you all the various features and how well it prints on this week's Filament Friday.
CR-10 V2
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Great Channel, ive learnt alot from Chep
I'm new to this, and his have been the most helpful videos I've found on the subject.
Chuck,
Been watching every week all year and I respect you. On this review, you can’t compare prints fairly if you don’t have it assembled the way it was designed. You complained about ringing yet if there is any hope of that improving, the extra rigidity of the frame might have made the difference. I guess we won’t know until someone else does a proper comparison and review. Sorry for the strong critique.
Thank you. I was of the same opinion. Most ghosting/ringing articles/videos mention multiple techniques for reducing these effects, and removing elasticity from the frame is often one of the measures suggested. Including but not limited to increasing the rigidity of the frame. With that being said, even if those supports don't add to the overall quality to this particular machine, making a point of leaving them uninstall set the tone of the video. Almost like its review was done before the assembly was completed.
yeah, would be good to see the difference with these rods.
Thank you for the honest review, and we will continue to improve :)
If you really want to improve, stop shipping incomplete products and expecting customers to finish the job, and actually test your firmware updates.
My argument is that if You don't understand something don't remove it. Or at-least read why people want diagonal rods and why they install them before complaining about ghosting on the testprint.
Have you tried adding the two supports and retesting for ringing to see if that makes a difference?
Been looking at this printer, thanks for the review Chuck!
Thanks for honest reviews chuck!
I really love the honest, unbiased review here! Thumbs up! This baby will be arriving Monday!!! I got it for 97 dollars off the price in this video!
Look forward to these every Friday!!
You should do some prints with the frame supports attached. Maybe that will help with the ringing.
It helps the upright not the bed vibration.
@@FilamentFriday Upright vibration can induce ringing as well, even though it will be less pronounce at lower layer heights. Still should have been tested since the machine comes with them... Still love the videos, thank you.
The rods not only make a rigid machine but you can use them to square up the machine so all surfaces are square to each other. If the upper section of the machine is leaning forward for example, then your sides (two sides if printing a big cube) will not be square to the top of the part. I hope that terrible explanation makes some kind of sense.
Fantastic review, man! Thanks a lot! 😃
Good explanations, thanks Chep!
Great video as always
Thanks for sharing :-)
The best thing about the cr 10 is the exposed extrusion and disconnected control unit. Heated enclosures are so much easier to make for the cr10 vs the cr10s pro.
Wouldn't those diagonal supports help counteract ringing in the Y axis? Perhaps they added them because of the switch to glass.
No, they support the upright not the vibration in the moving bed.
@@FilamentFriday Yes, they help with the ringing... The ringing is not just because of the bed. The Z profiles are vibrating and these supports help to stop these vibrations... Do new and proper test. This review was really bad.
How does the print quality compare to the PRO and the other CR10 models? Its a major deciding factor for what I need a printer for.
Great review and we will continue to improve:)
Great response. Thanks for watching.
Got mine for 299 with bl touch during release sale. Fast shipping from Creality too.
Any more information on ringing y axis and glass bed? I've always printed on glass and never gave it much thought.
With regards to your discussion about price in the end, it would have been good to mention the S4 and S5. After considering all the options I decided that rather than using my budget for the "upgrade" to V2 or Pro, I would rather "sidegrade" to the larger build volume of the S4. A major consideration for me was that basically all of the improvements of V2 or Pro can be made incrementally to an existing CR-10, often with components superior to V2 or Pro, but enlarging the build volume is not a very viable path.
Hello Chuck,
I recently watched this because I just bought a CR-10 V2 from Banggood. I'm glad your happy with it because it makes me feel a lot better about purchasing it and its also nice to see your CR-10 has worked well for you. I have an original CR-10 still in the box that I haven't built yet and I'm dying to put it together along with the V2 and start printing again. I've just been busy with other things. I actually have a question I wanted to ask you about my Printrbot Simple Metal. It won't print and the way I used to interface with it was through a micro USB port. I tried printing with an SD card but I'm not getting any response and without the tablet/laptop/computer plugged in to connect with it, I can't see the settings, move or adjust any of the axes. Is it possible to install another board in it like a Creality board or another 3rd party board? I know you're busy but any answer would help and be appreciated. Thank You in advance, Frank M.
Excellent review, Chuck. I think you're spot on with this review. I don't really find the CR-10 V2 to be a compelling upgrade. I almost think that the gantry supports are nothing more than a visual cue that it's a newer revision.
Thank you CHEP. Awesome Review!
I am having difficulty deciding which CR series Printer should I go with? Assuming newer model CR10 V2 would be more capable compared to all others which are out there already (considering electronic chip inside those, etc.)!
Can you please do some comparison video with others Vs CR-10 V2 so that we know what to expect if we were to buy one of these?
I think Amazon has reviews mixed up with Original CR-10 (sucks to rely on reviews by others since many Reviews are messed up and mixed up with other products). And not a lot of information available online as it is comparatively newer model.
Can you do a detailed video on various settings, and print quality with this new model as well?
Any more information on these would be great as I am and so do many others are out there shopping for a decent 3D printer.
Thank you for your work! It helps a lot of newbies out there.
Can you get a E3D V6 hotend for the CR10 V2?
Hello, couple of questions.
Recently I bought the same printer, but still can't print a complete object.
Having problems with Y axis, when calibrate the band move out of the rail and have to fix it. And when already print, after 2 or 3 layers everything moves out and screws the work, besides sometimes the material is not coming out of the extruder, any advices or experience to share?
Thanks.
Great concise review. I agree with you regarding the $499 price. MEH - not even high temp PTFE like Capricorn is included. I do like the PTFE all the way to the nozzle especially if you print mostly PLA/PETG.
Agree. Capricorn would have been a bonus.
Does it have a separate heat break that connects the heater block to the heat sink? or does the heat sink have an integrated heat break (ie. the heat sink screws directly into the heater block....)? Basically just wondering if I can buy a e3d heat break and put it into the cr-10 v2 hot end to convert it to an all metal hotend?
As always I appreciate your honest reviews I would have to agree not worth the extra money
Alway good advice Chep
Cheppie...the triangle supports are there because this is supposed to support a Titan direct drive extruder. However, no one knows how to do this and there is zero info from Creality, even to their vendors.
Chep I’m having a really mysterious issue with my cr10 v2. Support channels have been unsuccessful as well as my own attempts to solve. How can I enlist your help?
Does it have an 8 or 32bit board?
Thanks for the fantastsic review as ever. Having just purchased now following your review I am looking for a larger nozzle.
They look to be different from the ender 3 can you advise which is the correct nozzles for these
They use the same nozzles as Ender 3
@@FilamentFriday Thankyou very much indeed.
I'd like to see a CR-10 kit for Ender 3 people to upgrade build volume, this looks ok but I actually think the V6 knockoff is a step backwards, I liked the creality hotend, it's tried and tested and reliable.
Great tips and I look forward to each new video. I have learned a lot watching your videos. I have a question is their a setting in cura that has the layer change on infill? I was wondering if their was and would this fix the small burrs I get when printing?
Not that I know of but you can do outer wall before inner wall.
@@FilamentFriday That did the trick. Thanks CHEP
This REAAAALLY intrigues me as the integrated power base of my cr10s pro makes printing in an enclosure difficult.
Where is the direct-drive option? Not finding it anywhere.
www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-3d-cr-10-v2-3d-printer
Scroll down a bit.
Thanx. In this size and price range I consider the Artillery sidewinder X1 as a very tough competitor. Or....?
Swx1 can't be touched $ for $.
Would you recommend this over the cr10s? I am thinking of getting the 10s but am open to other options
Yes. I don’t really recommend the 10s.
Which hardened nozzle can I direct replace with it?
Can you put an E3D V6 directly in place of that? Waiting for that hot end part set to come available in replacement parts. I think from what I've seen it might be a good change to the stock parts on my Ender 3. Now that you have one do you agree?
The E3D V6 has its own fan that clips on so all you need is a mount and Thingiverse has them for CR-10 so I don’t think yougain much from these parts.
Hello. I like your videos. And i learn alot from them but i wish if you make video about y splitter in cura. Because i did not find any information how to do it. Best regards
What is Y splitter?
Do you mean cut a file in half?
Hey Chuck, I was wondering if you think the CR10 minis larger printer size and different electronics setup would make it worth the additional cost or should I go for an ender 3/ender 3 pro for cheaper? I'd also like to know which has produced better prints overall for you especially for small scale prints ( I plan on printing D&D minis and terrain).
They are both good printers. It just depends on the size you want.
Still the same crappy filament roll support distributor ? (idk how it's called)
I was so impressed with this printer I ended up getting one for myself.
It print's the included models like the cat / pig very nicely, yet when i try to do anything in a slicer (cura) and send it to the printer, everything looks like it has extrusion problems (gaps / holes between the layers / lines), even when using your cura profile on your page.
Any ideas?
What layer height are you using?
My cr-10 I have to pull back on the clamp which grips the filament as it wasn’t grabbing hard enough due to the spring. Try pulling back on the clip which grabs the filament and try and see if it prints smooth.
Will the new hotend can still be replaced like the micro swiss all metal? Thanks for the review. Have the ender 3 and this seems a better upgrade with the orig cr10s
Not sure. Upgrading to actual E3D v6 might be easier.
just snagged one for $400. Seems like a nice upgrade from the Ender3.
I'm looking at doing exactly the same
I agree that it's a bit (slightly, maybe $50) overpriced. I do LOVE that it's a 24V machine. That should make the bed work a lot faster. I still have mine in the box, need to set that up this weekend!
Mod to Direct Drive please :)
If your getting ringing going direct drive would make it worse. I really wish creality would come out with a direct drive printer. Was really hoping this would be it:( they left X axis alone:( and went cheaper on the hot end guess a sidewinder here i come. thanks for the info.
Why get this when there is Artillery Sidewinder X1?
X1 QC is more sucks than Creality
I need help with cr10-s5 flashing new motherboard old one died new one is set for 300x300 mine is 500x500 im clueless
Check out Chris Riley video:
ua-cam.com/video/0pt_b2ZizQM/v-deo.html
I think I'll stick with my Sidewinder X1. Less expensive and better features. To each their own though.
How is the sound as compared to an Artillery Sidewinder X1 or the cr10s pro?
About the same.
What clips are you using for the glass bed? I have the same glass but I'm using binder clips and they reach farther onto the bed than I'd like
Mine came with the clips in the video.
Are you going to jump into PrusaSlicer more for your CR10's ?
Maybe in the future. I’m still mostly using Cura for now.
There is a v3 of cr10, have you got a chance to use one?
No. Just V2
Chep Alfawise U20 ONE review Please
Hey Man. Thank You Sorry iam bad english :_-) thanks for all the information. have a nice day
Creality needs to do a V2 Ender 3... It's behind the curve when compared to the TEVO Tarantula Pro.
can you review the vivedino raptor 2.0
I think this is a bit too little improvement for a new version. Other manufacturers in the meantime improved their CR-10 clones with mains voltage heat beds, silent drivers, space saving integrated control unit and other nice stuff.
It does have silent TMC drivers as I stated.
Is there one that you would recommend for making a Ironman suit?
The V2 would probably be better for large prints.
Hello Chep,
Do you know what is the size of the nozzle thread for the CR-10 V2? Been wanting to buy bigger nozzle but I don't know if it's MK6 or MK8.
Thanks
Don’t know until I actually get one.
@@FilamentFriday isnt you have one?
Sorry, I miss read it as Ender 3 V2. It’s an MK6 thread. I have a link in my videos for Creality replacement nozzles. Check that out.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks!
Trying to decide between getting this one or the Ender 5 Plus.
I don’t have Ender 5 plus do I can’t offer advice,
@@FilamentFriday Ok, thank you regardless. Hope you get your hands one one to try some time. I'm guessing it's just plus size though so likely would be like comparing an original Ender 5 to a 3.
I have both. I prefer the 5+
@@TheDanny Yeah, I got the 5+ in the end and love it.
you planning to upgrade the bowden tube to Capricorn or similar?
At some point, definitely.
other review I saw said it has silent motor drivers.
I said basically the same thing. It has the TMC stepper drivers which make it very quiet.
What is the deal with Bangood and Aliexpress, how does ordering from them work ? Do I have import fees to pay ?
Not in the USA. Depending on the Printer they sometimes ship from their USA warehouse.
CHEP thanks 😊:)
bought 1, can not get it to work other then printing the test model, tech support told me only G-CODE format..
What format were you trying?
All printers work in gcode.
Is your gantry level? I have a cr10 v2 and the gantry is 2mm higher on right side. I have to level it before every print, but the moment the steppers are disabled to level the bed they go out of whack. I’m not impressed unfortunately. Do you have any suggestions how to fix this permanently? I’m pulling my hair out trying to get this issue fixed.
Any help appreciated.
the gantry is heavier on the extruder side. when switch off the plug,the heavy side will fall. it is common problem for s5
aaron ramly thanks for reply. Then how are we supposed to level the bed? It doesn’t have Auto Bed Level like my CR-10S. A major oversight my opinion. You have to disable steppers to manually level the bed. Levelling gantry before each print sucks! Does that mean when the steppers are enabled it rises back to level?
So far mine has maintained level. What you describe is the issue I had with the CR-10S.
CHEP interesting. I never had that problem on my cr-10s! Were you able to fix it? Is there anything I can try?
i have not fix mine,but i had seen people posting the solution in s5 group. search "z-axis belt synchonizer" on thingiverse. for the time being i just move the hotend to the other end and close to the bed,the result is not really consistant,sometime i need to revelled the bed
I would like to get my a ender 3d printer
Any noticeable speed increase?
No. I printed at 100mm/s and it seemed to speed limit.
I'm always amused when I see a CR-10 and it takes me a moment to recognize it because of the color stripes. I don't know if they used to come preinstalled but in my box they were separate and I didn't for a second consider installing them. Black is a perfectly fine color.
They originally came installed.
thk for video ;) dual Z whit dual endstop? or only one endstop in z ?
One end stop.
@@FilamentFriday thkyou
Could i try you profile for that printer?
Sure. Just change the retraction
What retraction has worked best for you?
@@FilamentFriday please tell me what are the best retraction. I'm desperate after multiple trys!
I think my Ender 5 Plus is a better printer for about the same cost 350mm x 350 mm x 400 mm and dual z axis. It prints better than my two Ender 5's and the extra print area makes a big difference.
Maybe. I haven’t tested that.
I feel like not adding the support beams instantly makes this review invalid...
Is the trade war and tariff situation impacting prices of Chinese printers?
Not that I’ve seen.
Do you think it'll need TL smoothers like the Ender 3?
No
Yes
TL smoothers are such a ghetto fix. If you really want less noise upgrade your mainboard and stepper drivers.
@@WrexShepard TL Smoothers are so cheap and worth a try. I installed them on al my creality printers and I see not huge differences but some. And it's not about the noise it's about the electronics that the stepper motors put out and what goes back to the stepper motors. With the help of smoother it can block any redirected current that goes back to the steppers
@@Declopse I understand what they do. All I'm saying is that TMC drivers and a better mainboard will get you the same and more. If you MUST use a4988 drivers, TL smoothers are awesome for getting rid of salmon skin and reducing noise, they're just not needed with TMC drivers which I believe this printer has, although they might be set up in standalone mode since creality likes to set up their TMC drivers in a stupid way on their mainboards.
I got my Ender 3 pro for 190,- and replaced the motherboard,springs and extruder for 40,- I'm wondering how much of an upgrade would this be for me
300x300x400 vs your 235x235x250.
Ottimo video grazie. Su banggood sono presenti già diversi coupon e io l'ho pagata 433€ con bltouch incluso. Penso che presa bene. Tu che ne pensi?
Why does a glass bed produce ringing on the y?
The weight of the glass causes the ringing as the jerk on the heavy bed is hard work on the structure and stepper- you only get it in the Y axis. As to why the weight causes the ringing I am not sure of the actual physics.
@@Cloudman572 thank you for explaining that. Would the ringing go if the stepper was changed? Would linear rails help?
@@novakmiler7944 I could guess but the true answer is I don't know. There are a number of google hits for "3d printing ringing", see if that has the answer.
@@Cloudman572 thanks again 👍
@@novakmiler7944 I think it can be reduced with stronger belts. A lot tend to stretch over time, but on a smaller scale it still has elastic properties, and with the weight of the bed and the speed, its ghosting/ringing. Some premium belts are reinforced, some upgrade them, others just print slower. Another tip to reduce it, is if you have Auto-Bed leveling on a Creality machine, remove the bed springs and add solid spacers.
The hot end is probably an E3D Lite 6.
Nope, the lite 6 has a metal heat break not PTFE all the way to the nozzle.
@@FilamentFriday Creality tell us that they are using all metal hotend in their website, but in Chuck review they doesnt, wtf Creality?
wow it looks like geeetech and crealty had a baby
I got my cr10 v2 for $362
Is the CR 10 V2 a good beginner 3d printer?
It’s decent.
@@FilamentFriday Whats a good beginner 3d printer?
i still dont know ，cr10s pro or v2，which is better？ can u give a recommendation ？beacuse in china cr10s pro is more cheap than a cr10 v2 😂😂😂
Pro is a solid unit and easier to carry around and already has a decent ABL. If you upgrade the hotend, its a great printer.
Yeah, not really worth the money. Knowing what I know now about 3d printers, it's not worth it over a cr-10s (and even then the only reason to get the S over the regular one is the motherboard). The only worthwhile upgrade would be the blower fan, but then the duct probably isn't as good as some you can find on thingiverse and the fans are dirt cheap anyway. The V6 style mount seems like a good idea, but the are plenty of printable mounts and you would have to buy an actual V6 (or all metal clone) to replace it, so you gain nothing for the price.
That hotend looks like the e3d Lite6
Lite 6 doesn’t have PTFE to the nozzle either.
@@FilamentFriday Ah, I see, it uses the thinner secondary PTFE liner. This must be like those china clones then, like TriangleLabs offer, which work like the MK8 hotends
@@Blamm83 i dont think so, the primary ptfe tube can be pulled all the way in this v2
$150 too expensive based upon the improvements.
the new features on this new machine just look very gimmicky and not really add anything to the machines usability and performance, just stick with CR 10 or the Ender 3 but saying that Creality quality control really sucks
Yep, overpriced. For this price they could give a "capricornus" blue PTFE tube (the clones aren't expensive) and maybe something else replaced. Instead of these rods. The review isn't full... (need some reliability tests with m.board, motor temperatures and etc.) Who knows, maybe there are some issues with motors (some Ender-3 users reported waves on Y-axis due to a bad motor that has really "pronounced" steps) or driver cooling. All these are my guesses only of course!
Please stop calling lead screws threaded rods. You're making this printer look like it's of worse quality.
THEY KEEP KNOCKING OUT THE SAME SHIT BUT IN A DIFFERENT BAG/FORMAT IMO.. I LOVE THEM BUT COME ON CREALITY GIVE US SOMETHING NEW DONT CHUCK STUFF ON AND CALL IT A PRO PRO S
Lower case is also available.
They have constantly added new features. It's a large format at a cheap price. The fact they keep adding features and keeping the price close is impressive. Compare a cr10, to this model, feature wise.
@@Cloudman572just as is not commenting and trying to be a smart arse
@@jlewis8521 new features like what a shite abl probe that dont function & no thermal runaway resume print that also.dont function correctly
@@wayneuk Rant more, its enjoyable to see the special people like you go off on one, thanks.
Those are all trash compared to the Artillery Sidewinder X1.
We’ll see but my X1 review unit broke the filament release on the first try. They must know it’s weak as they put two extra in the parts bag.
I dunno... Mine's been humming beautifully since day one. Quiet as ever too. Few of my friend's with CR-10 variants simply want my X1 after seeing it run compared to their Creality units. So glad I went X1.
Ban the adds thumbs down
the new features on this new machine just look very gimmicky and not really add anything to the machines usability and performance, just stick with CR 10 or the Ender 3 but saying that Creality quality control really sucks