Can the CR-10 V2 topple the Creality King? 3D Printer Review
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- The CR-10 was the hottest 3D Printer of 2017, but does the Creality CR-10 V2 have what it takes to become a worthy successor?
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Thank you for the honest review, for the auto-leveling sensor, firmware, filament detect sensor, touch screen, flat spot, and volcano hot-end you mentioned, we will feedback all to the company and continue to improve!
good to see Creality listening. I have 2 cr-10s's and im considering upgrading.
Is there a Creality skin slicer for the CR10S Pro?
@@Audio_Simon I don't personally know sorry, I have 2 of the CR-10S. As an addendum, though, please Creality, add a BLTouch. well pay the extra $20-25.
Good on you for listening to a reviewer's advice! TronXY could learn from this...
good to see the lack of auto-leveling was the mane reson i sold my CR-10-5S
Thanks Angus! You rock!
Happy to help where i can!
Angus 2:10 it’s not the standard Creality Hotend design. It’s a fin design similar to E3D but does have the PTFE all the way to the nozzle. I showed it in my review.
Thanks Chuck I'll have to check that out!
A surprisingly glowing ending, I wasn't expecting it after the tone change once bed leveling was addressed.
I'm definitely not impressed with their firmware and bed level approach, but I was really happy with the print quality once leveled and it seemed to stay that way, even at the stupid layer heights.
Thanks for the shout out Angus. Another great, honest review, putting the viewer first.
Thanks man, likewise with your CR-10 Max video and follow ups.
Just wanted to say, I appreciate your videos. I am brand new to 3D printing and when I have questions on anything your my go to creator for answers. Thanks for what you do my friend!
Jeez, you're just pumping out videos! And I like it
I love your reviews and thanks for the help!
Angus, great review as always!
Still got my CR10 done a few mods to it, and had to replace some parts that stopped working but nothing expensive. Great printer to learn on and produces some fantastic prints.
Thank you, also just want to point out, I was having some printing problems and just noticed my bed was a bit loose (ender 3) like this one on the vid, every day we learn something new
YES Agnus I do love your channel and great review
Finally, can't wait to watch!!!
If you choose preheat then home on any other printer (as far as I have tested), they all wait for the preheating to end before executing the home command... that's a Marlin thing, not a Creality thing :))
If I set manual temperature on the CR10S Pro it will keep warming in the background and allow me to home etc.
actually it's a gcode thing not a Marlin thing ;) (look at M104 and M109 in RepRap)
I’ve seen the same thing using the paneldue on a duet. It waits for heating to finish and then homes.
@@xirtakeht this is correct. M104 and M109 are heat/cool and wait commands. Where as M140 and M190 will heat and cool but no waiting. Creality using the former in there firmware for preheat is actually a good safety measure for new users. That said it would annoy the crap put of me lol
@@nathantoews152 indeed like any good safety measure it is annoying :D
I'm so glad you reviewed this printer, I had already ordered one a week ago as my first printer. I will diffidently be checking those Y axis rollers before I start. The interface shouldn't bother me too much as I already have a pi 3b+ loaded with octoprint. I would love to see a follow up to see how you went with the Titan extruder and the upgraded firmware.
Another great video,
Out of curiosity did it have thermal run away protection enabled ?
Since your following in Preston’s footsteps can’t wait to see your skateboard reviews soon 😀
Just upgraded a cr10 s5 to a 32 bit controller, touch screen, best stepper hotswappable stepper drivers, 500watt power supply so no more waiting till people can walk on water, which has never happened ever, silicon hotend cover, wifi control, LED lighting so it makes a modern looking multipurpose desk lamp, 1mm nozzles to print larger items within a suitable amount of time within my lifespan, because people really only do live only once, just once, and i stupidly forgot to grab 24v fans and hotend, because i'm sometimes an idiot, only human, such as yourself for instance, though soon everything should just be impeachy keen, and may print useful items with nonplanar highspeed 3d printing, maybe a new car, or a friggin space ship, or many more of these mini models of guitars for my replica mini music store. Terrific! Terrific! Keep on rolling and rocking down under, and thanx for that review, as this is what you do, you groovy inspiring bastard you!
#MaterialPhysics
Great review Angus. The constant smile on your face speaks volumes about how passionate you are about this hobby.
I am thinking about getting the V3 of this printer and have watched a ton of unboxings and reviews however there's one thing about setting up the printer that bugs me..
Not once have I seen anyone put a square on the uprights and so in theory when installing the support bars you could push one upright slightly backwards and pull the other one slightly forwards. The taller a print goes, the more twisted it would print? Or am I missing something here?
thanks I will pull the trigger on this machine now!
Great review 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
I've had my CR-10s for about a year now and love it. Lots of fun to tinker with and upgrade stuff. Converted mine to direct drive with 3D printed parts, then got a little kit a few months ago just to make it a bit sturdier. All new fans and part cooling. It handles a 0.8mm nozzle with the stock hot end no problem with the right settings, and it is super fun watching it just gobble filament and spit out a part in minutes!
I also really don't mind manually leveling the bed. I think it's kind of satisfying in a way. And once it's set, you basically don't need to mess with it again. Although, I will very slightly lower the bed when going to PETG since it doesn't like a first layer smoosh as much as PLA.
Are you heating the bed more for PETG? You might be finding it just expands so the level changes, it can be a bit frustrating if you go between materials often!
@@MakersMuse I am! I didn't even consider that. 🤔 Usually 75C for the bed with PETG, which is quite a lot hotter than I use for PLA. That makes a lot of sense!
@@BRUXXUS DW it took me literally years to twig to that too haha.
Okay, Tevo now knows what the Tornado v2 needs: This + AC heat bed and assisted leveling. The same improvements as years ago.
I've been waiting on this video
Very nice review, Angus.
Terrific review as usual.
Hi Angus, great review, very interesting watch!
Quick question, the failed print at the 6:30 mark, do you have a link for that, it looks like a very interesting print! Would look good pained up on my Warhammer 40k table
I really appreciate your unbiased review.
I seem to remember you as NOT a big Creality fan as
far as the original version was concerned.
Next we'd like a list of upgrades to make you love it...
Glad to see you had a good experience with this creality machine. You can be a bit of a harsh critic of all manufacturers in general and theres nothing wrong with that. As someone who has two creality printers and one abysmal CTC printer that i cut my teeth on 3 or 4 years ago im glad to see the awesome stuff creality keep bringing to the table. Im a big fan of josef prusa but cant see myself ever buying one of his machines. The next step im waiting for is an affordable version of e3ds tool changing corexy. Do i really need it? no. Do i want it? hell yea!
it's way past 2am, so I don't know if it's me or if it's the video, but was there a red color cycling through towards the end?
I don't know why, but my camera was having a party phasing between white balances for NO REASON. ;.;
I'm in a similar situation, I just vomited and it's 5am. I picked this as my first video to watch after the deed.
I assumed it was your Leaf color LED lights - time to switch to manual color balance!
Then it'll always be wrong! Need to refresh the set up so I can see what I'm doing haha
Thanks for the heads-up. I've been looking at a CR10 Max for a larger build volume. If I go that route I'll keep an eye on the Y axis and watch for flat spots.
that abyss filament is so gorgeous
I trust Angus’s reviews more than most.
To be honest I really like the click wheel on my Ender 3, which is most likely the same. I wouldn't want to have a touchscreen since it would result in a higher price
Our firmware for this machine keeps the heat on when it runs out and keeps the motors locked. Check it out. :)
That sounds a bit more useful !
Because of course it does😁
where can i find the firmware?!?!?!
I have been trying to figure out what printer to go with for some time and I appreciate all the knowledge I have been able to gain from your videos. Given your review of this model, what is your opinion on the Ender 5 Plus? I like it for the size to price and seems like if the Extruder and Hot End were changed out for a v6 or mosquito might actually be a better than decent printer as it appears to be a decent printer as is, just missing a few refined details. Thank you
after trying over 17 3d printers this machine is amazing.... my fav printer
I have had my CR10s since it first came out few years back! I have replace all the cheap fans with Noctua fans and it's quiet as a mouse! Best 3D printer for money by far
I've had my CR10S for like.... a year? Upgraded to direct drive and new fans all around and I really love it. Prints with a 0.8mm nozzle are super fun! Although, I usually keep a 0.4 on it for normal prints.
How did you silent the stepper drivers?
My BEST upgrade to my cheapo A8 clone was a genuine E3D "Block and Sock" kit. For under $30 I had fixed the flakey taped-in-place hotend thermistor and now had badass heating capability, can run 1.0 or 1.2mm nozzle very well even at ABS temps. If I got that I'd quickly do the same....though kinda nervous to go bowden from DD.
I just put my together. My first layer of the Benchie isnt adhering well, it pulls the line when making the corner. What do you use on you bed to improve adhesion?
Its a good sign that they still go to blunt honest reviewers even if they get a bad review. shows they might be listening and working on improvements. i hope.
it's a relatively cheap way to get a ton of high quality feedback the average consumer wouldn't give them lol
For bed leveling: you can put together some G code that moves the nozzle to be over each leveling bolt in turn, pausing until you click the wheel. I did this for my Ender 3 and threw it on each SD card I use for the printer. That way, you can just spin the wheel clockwise a few times and you'll hit the code without hunting around for it.
Thanks for the video.
I have 2 of the CR-10s machines and they both work flawlessly after creating supports for the uprights and a few mods to the stepper gear for the filament. I leveled my bed over a year ago and haven't touched it since with no problems of the models coming loose. And it's the original glass (warp facing up). I also just started running TPU through it and it works great as well.
So I don't see much need in buying a new machine that isn't a huge improvement over the CR-10s design. However, I would love to see a Volcano hot end or native direct drive. I almost upgraded mine, but just never really felt like messing with it.
Omg last video I requested for this review and here we go ladies and gentlemen..🥂
Hi Angus, can you recommend a good dual extruder printer? Why seems low-end printers care dual extruder? I found only FLSUN (that I bought... bad kit!) and the hictop duale 3.
What would your choice be?
Thanks!
Thank you for this review, if I can use a bit smaller printer, what should I get in your opinion for the same money instead of CR-10 V3?
I was hoping for a review before I bought mine over a month ago. I took the gamble and picked one up. Its technically my first printer but Ive been so happy with it. Printed some great stuff with the stock nozzle but upped it to a .6 to print larger vase based stuff. I havent gone into Cura or Creality settings to tweak anything but have been getting good prints with basic settings. Getting some base ideas under my belt then ill deal with tweaking. Just trying to prototype fast atm
last time I was this early, Angus had purple in his hair
My CR10S transformed from a mess into a star when I added a BL touch with mesh auto bed leveling. So in my case, for long term reliable, fuss-free operation, a BL touch or any other good ABL probe is a must.
I used to scoff at automatic bed levelers, but now with multiple printers going all the time the convenience and time savings are a real bonus.
The one thing I absolutely love about my Prusa Mk3 is the automatic bed levelling - that makes it worth it to me already. Levelling beds has become my biggest pet peeve since I got my CR10, and it is so incredibly annoying. Second peeve are those clips to secure a bed - started to hate them too. I might upgrade the CR10 to linear rails in the future (v-rollers are getting old), get auto bed levelling, breathe some new life into it, but I'll never get another manual level printer - it's not worth the savings (to me), if you print a lot.
Would lubricating the wheels help? Also what kind of lubricant would be best?
Hey Angus, Care to share your slic3r settings for this printer?
Greetings from austria!
As for the bed heating before the nozzle, you can always set them to heat up together once you start the heating process by going into the settings. I only have the normal CR-10, but I’m assuming it’s the same since the firmware looks the same.
Hi i have a cr10 max and for some reason it now thinks the z 0 is 4mm below the table ive tried everything to reset this but are unable any ideas how to fix this back to factory thanks David
You didn’t mention it but can we assume that thermal runaway protection is enabled on those machines?
Heating the bed first and then the hotend is also in my Ender 2, so I'm guessing that has been there for a long time. If you go into the menu, you can set the temps and fan speed manually though, that'll make sure to heat both simultaneously.
hi where to get the settings for CR10 V2 ? in cura there is not a profile for that printer..
Hi question I had creality cr 10s its my first 3d printer I wanted a bigger build plate so I'm new to this it worked great I made a lot of mistakes lol then it started not leveling right its manual I tried everything so I sent it back now I dont know if I should get another one or something else what would u recommend I have around $500 to spend it not much I do want to get into making helmets when I get better Thank you
Hi
Just ordered one after watching your review.
Can you advise what fitment the nozzle is? is it a standard mk8 or something of their own creation?
Can you do a comparison between the CR-10 V2 and the Artillery X1? pleeeeease
I hope this helps a bit:
I have bought both, and I love both of them.
The CR-10 V2 is very reliable, however I didnt have great results with the optional titan direct drive extruder. But aside from that, it is a great printer, amazing prints, great build plate adhesion. I mainly use it with my 0.8mm nozzle, and still get great results with amazing strength.
While the Artillery Sidewinder X1, with its volcano hotend, and direct drive I have found prints flexible and exotic filaments amazingly. The only issue with I had with that one is the lead screw couplers. They were very wobbly. But after replacing them I got great results.
They are both great printers, however I cannot say if one of them are better.
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
Does anyone know why my ender 3 keeps clicking were the filament goes in and it keeps slipping were it pushes it?
Any thoughts on the Flashforge finder 3d printer ?
I have a original CR-10 so did you think they would make an upgrade kit to fix up the older machines? since really it’s just braces, new steppers, power supply, and a few other small things. I’m sure there would be aftermarket kits but I’ve been always cautious of quality and longevity.
Dang, I just got a CR-10S a few weeks back for the same price, I missed out. Does it have thermal run away protection? I know mine didn't from testing, but I've since swapped my board for an SKR 1.3 with TMC driver's.
can you print flexible filament with the dual gear drive?
Great review Angus. Kudos to Creality, they have come a long way. Sure, a BL Touch should be included IMHO but hey, it's still a lot of printer for the money. I agree on the nozzle size, my #Borg has a 0.8mm. When I want fine detail I use my MK2
If you are getting this printer, please please please also get the BT TOUCH, easy install, and prints like a dream!
Does having a glass bed mean that we do not need any BL touch and auto levelling, since the bed does not warp?
Will you make a creality CR20 PRO review?
For the price, I'll stick with my FLSUN 300x300x450 for US $349. At least it came with a touch screen, inductive bed leveling and three choices of nozzle configs.
Is there a model number? Want to check it out
@@jvh22a I found it on amazon. FLSUN 3d Printer Plus Prusa i3 Diy kit. The model was C3 Plus I believe. I don't know if they still sell it. Mine came with a heated bed, auto level, a single nozzle setup, a duel nozzle setup I think they called Chimera and a dual color single nozzle setup. A MKS touchscreen. The bigger wattage power supply and And a case for the main board that came with fans. And the logic board had removable stepper drivers so if any failed or burned out you could replace it.
can u make a video about big size 3d printers
You do a great job in the review thank you, I did buy the 10S Pro i found a refurbished one for $350 and could not pass it up. after a few weeks of pulling my hair out it has become a work horse for my 2.0 mm layer rapid test part maker. However, i really wanted the Max, and those glorious Z axis struts. As i looked at the photos of the Max, it seems i could widen the Pro using Max parts. Maybe cut square holes in the steel cover to poke the frame rails out bit that is not bad. Could you help me determine if this is feasible and then add the lovely struts, which i already bought but have no place to attach at the bottom. I think a Pro to Max kit would sell, even if we had to cut the steel cover. a little patience with a dremel and viola!
Hey Angus, just curious, what prints do you keep and what do you throw away? And how do you store what you keep?
Sadly, a LOT get thrown away because of how many of the same boring test print I have to do to evaluate each unit. I keep the more interesting ones and sometimes give them away as gifts.
@Maker's Muse It's almost a shame there's not an object or series of objects that can have a life beyond testing a printer, useful mechanical things or interesting artwork that people actually want, even when the prints don't turn out as hoped.
@@MakersMuse You may need to get your self one of those systems to recycle old prints in to new filament.
@@kevincozens6837 which system is that? I've see a couple promising that but they only work well with virgin pellets.
@@EldarKinSlayer There was one system shown at ERRF for crushing plastic in to pellets. There may be another system for preparing plastic to be turned in to new filament. I don't keep track of them as the solutions are too expensive for me to justify the cost as I don't do a lot of 3D printing.
My CR10S Pro has more stringing than that. Is it the slicer settings or the better cooling duct ya think?
Is Thermal Overload enabled?
Can you please make a video about piezoelectric printable filament.
Would I still get great prints on my CR10 if I were to use a 1mm nozzle instead of the normal .4mm nozzle? What would be the drawbacks?
Does anyone have a profile I can download of his 1.0 MM settings? I plugged in the values he states in the video and I still get 3 day print times
So I guess it's time to migrate this new hotend/coolingfan-design on the ender 3. Looks pretty nice :-)
I own two of these... they are both COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. ordered them both directly from the creality website, both came if different boxes, the hot end is different, one of the extruders can take a manual knob the other can't, one has holes for the bltouch (don't buy one) the other doesn't, and one had clips for the bed the other had integral sliders to hold the bed; and it's sort of random which one has what parts.
they both print perfectly, except the filament sensor on one was not functional, so I simply bypassed it by breaking it open and taping the switch into the "on" position.
I just use control to heat the nozzle and the hotend at the same time. I never use the preheat features
I cant wait till the Pruisa mini review.
does it have a bootloader for firmware? Oh, does it have thermal runaway detection enabled?
Do you know anything about the CR-2 Pro? I've seen it on sale at a couple of places online, but it's always out of stock. With virtually no information about it online, I'm starting to doubt if it is a real product or not.
For some reason my resume print does not work. It starts to by moving to the correct axis, but then stops moving
It would have been cool to see a small and very accurate printer from Creality. This printer is an upgrade, but I feel like it is yet another good and large printer that has mostly the same features and issues. I think it is time for Creality to think small because they already dominate the market for large, cheap printers.
Hi Angus, could you review Sovol SV01 as the appreance looks such similiar with CR 10 V2, but the price is much cheaper than v2, and it include direct drive extruder (Clone), meanwell powe supply, dual z as well, aluminum frame, but the price for sv01 is only $299, it is quity worthy. th3d did a live stream for sv01 last week and they are ready to resell that printer with updated firmware and others.
Hi do you think i can place this in 23degrees temperature room?
Thanks for this review, still not sure what to buy. :-)
Great to see a Mean Well in this, but is 350w enough for a heated bed on such a large build volume? Also, will it be sufficient to support a volcano hot end?
We talk about Creality listening to feedback, but I’m not convinced. They shipped the CR-10s PRO with a fantastic 500w Mean Well unit and not put one into this printer, but thank goodness they did not use that fire hazard 500w “Branded” PSU from the Ender 5 Plus. It is a real shame as I would have gone for that printer had it not been for that PSU.
So basically it's a cr10-s with extra frame support added and micro sd to sd and you have a v2 cr10 is amazing I still have the first version and loved upgrading as new versions came out you learn more starting from the basic those lines on the prints I do believe there seams and you can hide them in cura to the sharpest point of the prints or hide them by random seam points hope that helps great review tho bud keep up the great work love your vids :)
So, if you had to go for this, or the Sidewinder, which would you buy? Was hoping you could review the Alfawise U20 One (improved U20) , i hear good things, but not from trusted reviewers such as yourself!
How is it comparing to the 6se?
How about adding the BL Touch? I would love to see that with results!
I have recently purchased CR-10 v2, failure to read SD card (even after formatting to FAT32, it was already FAT 32) , main software hangs post-heating bed and nozzle !! What am i missing?
Angus, you mentioned that the print surface likes an ultra close first layer but you didn't mention the actual layer height you found was needed. On a printer of mine that uses a Build Tak type surface I use 0.25mm for first layer. I recently acquired a delta with this same type of glass like surface. The default slicer profile used a first layer height of 0.3mm which seems way too high. I'm going to test 0.25 but wonder if it might need to be lower.
The CR10s v1 is now on sale in the Creality website that made me jump the gun to get a big print volume. That is the pne I got instead.
So.. Do I slice with CR10/CR-10S settings? There is no like... Profile..?
I own both CR10 Max & CR10 V2, All I can say it is very good for its prices and quality! It's totally worth it!