I have two Hondas. I installed Fumoto drain valves on both of them. One time permanent install. No worries about stripping. Neither has leaked so much as a drop in 4 years. No tools needed for draining oil. Great product.
I have already stripped my threads on my 2005 odyssey and it now has a slow leak. Does FUMOTO make oversized valves so I can re-thread and also enjoy the convenience of never having to remove the plug again? If they do, what size/model should I be buying? Thnx.
@@msiddi01 yes. Depending on what size plug your car uses just check their website for one that’s larger and tap for that size. My 2006 Ridgeline uses an M14x1.5x14mm length. Maybe yours does too. Then you could go with an M16x1.5 Fumoto valve if they sell one.
It didn't work for me. It is only about 2 circles of thread more than the original and didn't hold well. The Dorman# 090-164 is much better, 10 more circles of thread.
You were correct! My poor mechanic put in a brand new bad alternator! Then replaced it the next day. No more dash lights and thanks to you! I had him put in a new PCV . Watched your video on replacing overhead gaskets and learned to replace it from you. Thank you!
I am gonna do this on my vehicle. Thank you for your information. Its people like you that help the family man by dodging high costs from mechanics that price gouge.
Next time screw a nut all the way on the bolt, then cut it/ grind it / saw it. Then you unscrew the nut from the bolt, that way you are making sure that there is a desent thread and no pointy sharp spoons. = nut comes of, nut can be screwed on ;)
i just fixed my Chrysler Concorde Today, i have the same problem, and i was lucky enough to get a over sized self tapping bolt from Oreilly, i just bolted it in like a boss i was surprised about it, and actually works, good video my friend
I partly stripped the Drain Hole in the Transmission. It holds a new magnetic Plug I put there on ~11Ft-lbs, and torque required is 22 Ft-lbs. No leeks right now. I even don't know or to leave how it is, or it will develop leaks later, since the torque is 1/2 what is needed, so tighten it more. I would appreciate if you could give your opinion on this matter. I saw at the end of the film you snugged the bolt. Can you tell what is the approximate torque there. Thank you for the informative film.
I usually tighten my oil pans tight but not enough to strip them. Last time I took it off, I used a 1/2 breaker bar, and I thought I went the wrong way and stripped it but I got lucky. Nothing worse than stripped bolts on a block/oil pan/bleeder screw. When its hot, it tends to wanna fuse, thats why you wanna get it close to the correct torque, especially with aluminum
Thanks, I'm gonna do this on my D16V1 which some nutcase seems to have also impact gunned. Now I am a little bit worried about the fact that the bolt seems to bottom out on your V6 instead of threading clean trough. Mine seems to be in a similar position where it's following the "floor" of the oil pan. But it would be nice as a last resort to be able to get one of the m15x1.5 rethread kits with spare plugs. But if the thread tap doesn't have room on the back side it seems difficult to rethread. Fingers crossed the long bolt approach works first though.
Thank God. I thought you were about to drill and tap that hole with the pan on the vehicle. That wouldn't been hard to watch. All those metal shavings left in the pan, just begging for trouble; whew. I'm so glad you didn't go down that road.
Another great video! A tip for you and your friend, in case you guys weren't aware already. So the Odyssey's and Accords of this era are notorious for having transmission failure. Turns out, they have no filter and only use 3.5 quarts for a drain and fill! (No wonder they fail). The forums recommend a drain and fill at every oil change. There are people who have done this since day one and have over 300k miles on the original Odyssey transmission! At work, we've also brought a couple back from the dead by just doing a drain and fill, run it for a little while, then drain and fill again, a few times. A slipping seemingly no good trans, magically running like new and still going!
Thank you very much! I've actually heard about the transmission problem--the one on this vehicle has been replaced once already. I've never heard or read about the actual cause of the problem or even what the symtoms are (just slipping gears?), however I think I'm gonna have to look into it further. I think a transmission service is an easy thing to do for peace of mind, no doubt.
but doing it every time you change your oil is a little extreme depending on how often you change your motor oil. for me I change my oil every 12000 miles so in that case I could see me changing my transmission fluid at the same time because I only drive 9500 miles a year. 90% of that is free way
+MrOatmeal5150 There are a couple good videos about removing the trans fluid by disconnecting the cooler line and pumping it out a quart at a time by running the engine a few seconds. Then top off and repeat until the fluid is clean coming out. Always use Honda original fluid. It is NOT the same as standard transmission fluid because Honda transmissions have an unusual design. I do a drain and fill at every oil change and a complete flush at 70,000 when I replace timing belt.
John Ferguson I've been using royal purple max atf for about a year now in my honda civic and my shifts are better then when I was using the genuine honda ATF. From my experience as long as your using a fluid that is compatible with honda ATF-Z1. You should be just fine.
From one Johnny to the next buy an Ecoplug and never deal with threads again.These Ecoplugs last forever and they work on steel and aluminum pan threads regardless of the condition
a mercedes drain plug is longer and a great replacement for jobs like this IF you can torque it to 29 foot pounds to make sure the one time use "crush" washer is indeed "crushed" properly.
Got the hole stripped so far that i wasn't able to screw the drain plug back in :). Drilled the old threads out, retapped and installed a helicoil. The engine itself is known as a 139qmb chinese engine and the aluminium is really soft. I did a Engine rebuild last week and found a puddle of oil after just 1 night and replaced the bolt from another engine which still caused a tiny bit of oil leakage and till today i went ahead and used a soft copper ring after installing Heli Coil and shortened the bolt using a hacksaw. Sure enough and no drip of oil under the engine ( I think 1 drip every week or so ) Running 5w30/5w40 now.
The correct torque for honda oil drain bolts is 42n.m and you can do a Time sert but it is not the permanent fix. Go to honda get a longer drain bolt. It is a normal problem.
A much better way is to get a long M15 x 1,5mm bolt, cut a groove into the end, put some grease of Vaseline in the groove and screw it into the oil pan...slowly and straight. Do it until it goes all the way and then clean the threaded oil pan hole with carb cleaner..then you can cut off the longer grooved part of the bolt so it just passes through the thread in the drain hole, put a washer on ...viola.
Get a oil drain plug insert kit. You may need a large drill. A Big-sert kit may be better. It has a steel insert. Lisle has a kit that might work. A steel insert is better. A 14x 1.25 Sava-A-Thread kit may do if yours is that size.
@@merrymenagerie4116 the engines are the same Except for the Crankshaft. Honda’s crankshaft will last 400,000 miles and the Vue’s will last 150,000 miles
Hey @50skid. Great video. Literally doing he same thing todau for an 05 odyssey. If that 40mm bolt isn't bottoming out is it safe to use it without cutting (i.e have you seen the inside of the pan/know the location of any pumps or parts it might interfere with?)
mercedes benz uses m14x1.5 drain plug just like honda but the one for mersedes is longer, just what you need. if instead of going to the hardware store you had gone to an auto parts store you would had got the right replacement plug.
The thread is damaged because: -- old drain plug seal washer is reused and tighten too much -- new drain plug washer is placed incorrectly on the bolt (flat side of the washer should go toward the engine, "rounded" side of the washer goes toward the drain plug's head). -- aftermarket aluminum washer with T6 temper is used (should be T4 or softer) -- factory torque (27 to 29 foot pounds) seems to be too much. How to prevent the thread stripping: -- reinstall plug after engine oil pan is cooled down (about 30 degrees C) -- if new washer is not available, smear Ultrablue Permatex RTV (which expands when exposed to oil) on the area where threads meet the washer, making 2-3 mm fillet, then reinstall the bolt; maximum torque to be 18 foot pound -- reduce torque to 22 foot pound max when new washer is used -- do NOT change oil too often :)
50sKid how long did you make the plug? How much of the 45 did you cut off? I have a 30 I’d like to use. I wonder if that length bolt would hit the fold in the pan. Thanx
Hey man love all your videos (specifically your E46 diy's). I was trying to do my oil change and once i broke the bolt free and started to try and take it out it just kept spinning. Im hoping its the plug but preparing for it to be the pan. Do you know what the thread count is for the E46 plug? Thanks for your tips and help
+Quincy Longman Ouch. Surprised that this would happen to the E46 as it's a steel pan. I'm sorry I don't know the thread count but it seems to me the most important thing is to get it out first. Good luck!
the length of the screw it's the reason why it cut the thread. i don't think it the original screw. it's well known that the thread length has to be 1.5xdiameter. so for the m14 you need at least 21mm thread.
I think my oil pan gasket might have gone bad. That's going to be a pain in the ass. Since the oil pan needs to be removed anyways, I might just get a new oil pan as well. They're cheaper then I expected.
Honda needs to stop making these things. I never had a problem with any other aluminum oil pans. They have us torque them down to 29 to 33 ft lbs per the recommended specs with a torque wrench. I think using anything else than a wrench and a couple of love taps to make sure it's snug is overkill on these things.
The mercedes oil plug works the one with the 13mm head it's same Threads just longer thank me later this happens alot. People try and change their own oil then take it to Walmart and hope they don't notice so they can blame them. The main reason they get a bad reputation in my opinion
Most plugs get stripped by the monkeys in the oil change chains and lub shops, they never tell you. I was getting my car inspected I saw the guy stripped the plug of a customer car.
transformerrock.Yep. Some Yamaha dealer moron pretended he's a mechanic then cross threaded the drain bolt. I took it back and they said the bike is SUPPOSED to be like that. OHHHHHHH, right, of course. Told them they just damaged my new bike but cant risk letting them touch it again. Since this was in South East Asia, lots of dark looks and much serious sulking cuz I made them "lose face". What a moronic concept. You can't be called out on anything nor call anyone else out, no matter what useless, ignorant fucks they are. Only big money creeps are allowed to raise shit cuz they're rich and connected. Every other customer just gets laughed at. If you want to know the dealer, PM me. For them it's far more important to look cool in your exculsive staff-only Yamaha, Honda, Kawi or Suzi polo shirt than actually know wtf you're doing. And learning anything from a foreigner who happens to be an EU certified race mechanic? No need. What would he know? Local bike trashing morons claim to know it all. So as I spend a few years working in the region, Ive learned to maintain my own rides and thank god for all the fantastic online forums. You guys are life-savers. I know all the bleeding hearts out there will tell me I'm a Nazi Imperialist slave owning monster but I'm willing to take the flack cuz my bikes run soooo smooth. Amazing what some patience, questions and following instructions can do!!
vual grimoire This is a lot of BS from a You Tube Troll !! Busted by your own words stupid. Your very Stupid by saying your are a UA CERTIFIED RACING MECHANIC ! But you don’t know how to change the oil on your motorcycle.
My brake, door lights, and battery light came on 2001 odyssey idle rough and surging when in drive and come to a stop. Any idea what that could be? Thank you
Thank you so much! I also noticed the idle is a little rough I had the alternator tested because I had a battery drain. The alternator tested good. I replaced the battery and it was good for a little while the lights went off but now they're back on 😰 the electrical has been a little wacky for a while. Thank you for the great heads up on the PCV valve. As soon as I can hunt this problem I'll have my mechanic change the PCV, if I don't do it myself, thank you again for your prompt answer, I'll keep you posted
I noticed that there is not much Thread Engagement there is only a small portion of the plug where it is screwed in. looks like there is more thread at the back of the hole use a longer bolt to get full engagement . also Aluminum (Soft) is not made to have a bolt run in and out of it namely a steel one . don't know what car Engineers are thinking
Jim Brown I found a M14x1.5x30 at an Ace Hardware. Would that be too long to use? Would I need to cut off a few millimeters so the plug won’t bottom out and touch something inside the drain pan? I have a 2006 Honda Ridgeline. Same issue as the Oddysey in this video.
***** I know, I'm trying to get to it. I have a bunch of vids in the can at this point and life keeps getting in the way when it comes time to make the CCV vid (don't worry I'll post it right after I shoot it).
another tip when grinding/cutting a bolt put a nut on first then once you make your cut unscrew the nut it will align the threads
legit
I have two Hondas. I installed Fumoto drain valves on both of them. One time permanent install. No worries about stripping. Neither has leaked so much as a drop in 4 years. No tools needed for draining oil. Great product.
I have already stripped my threads on my 2005 odyssey and it now has a slow leak. Does FUMOTO make oversized valves so I can re-thread and also enjoy the convenience of never having to remove the plug again? If they do, what size/model should I be buying? Thnx.
@@msiddi01 yes. Depending on what size plug your car uses just check their website for one that’s larger and tap for that size.
My 2006 Ridgeline uses an M14x1.5x14mm length. Maybe yours does too. Then you could go with an M16x1.5 Fumoto valve if they sell one.
I purchased a magnetic drain plug that had longer threads. It reached the good threads past the ones that were stripped. It worked great.
Where you get it from
It didn't work for me. It is only about 2 circles of thread more than the original and didn't hold well. The Dorman# 090-164 is much better, 10 more circles of thread.
You were correct! My poor mechanic put in a brand new bad alternator! Then replaced it the next day. No more dash lights and thanks to you! I had him put in a new PCV . Watched your video on replacing overhead gaskets and learned to replace it from you. Thank you!
Nice, you're welcome.
I am gonna do this on my vehicle. Thank you for your information. Its people like you that help the family man by dodging high costs from mechanics that price gouge.
Thanks, just ran into this problem with my honda accord. My oil plug looked exactly like the one you had. I'm going to give this a try.
Next time screw a nut all the way on the bolt, then cut it/ grind it / saw it.
Then you unscrew the nut from the bolt, that way you are making sure that there is a desent thread and no pointy sharp spoons. = nut comes of, nut can be screwed on ;)
Lasse Sukkerfar Ibsen Nice tip, I like it! Thanks!
Great :D We can all learn new things ;)
i just fixed my Chrysler Concorde Today, i have the same problem, and i was lucky enough to get a over sized self tapping bolt from Oreilly, i just bolted it in like a boss i was surprised about it, and actually works, good video my friend
Nice, I didn't know they made such a thing.
i actually found them on ebay and amazon too,
Mark Chance is that oversized drain plug still working out with no leaks?
told my mechanic about options of longer bolt to catch deeper threads, retap helicoil, or oversized bolt...he went with a spark plug! hahaha
Yes that fits!
6:30 Run a nut all the way onto the bolt before you cut it, and when you remove it, you are re-forming the thread at the cutoff point.
Thank you so much for this.
FYI: Autozone had the exact drain bolt with the correct length so no cutting required.
I partly stripped the Drain Hole in the Transmission. It holds a new magnetic Plug I put there on ~11Ft-lbs, and torque required is 22 Ft-lbs. No leeks right now. I even don't know or to leave how it is, or it will develop leaks later, since the torque is 1/2 what is needed, so tighten it more. I would appreciate if you could give your opinion on this matter. I saw at the end of the film you snugged the bolt. Can you tell what is the approximate torque there. Thank you for the informative film.
Thank you for the paint strainer in the funnel tip. GREAT IDEA
That paper filter is a good idea.
I usually tighten my oil pans tight but not enough to strip them. Last time I took it off, I used a 1/2 breaker bar, and I thought I went the wrong way and stripped it but I got lucky. Nothing worse than stripped bolts on a block/oil pan/bleeder screw. When its hot, it tends to wanna fuse, thats why you wanna get it close to the correct torque, especially with aluminum
Great video I have a 2003 Honda Odyssey v6 ex would it be the same bolt size and thread pitch as well
Yes it is.
Thanks, I'm gonna do this on my D16V1 which some nutcase seems to have also impact gunned. Now I am a little bit worried about the fact that the bolt seems to bottom out on your V6 instead of threading clean trough. Mine seems to be in a similar position where it's following the "floor" of the oil pan. But it would be nice as a last resort to be able to get one of the m15x1.5 rethread kits with spare plugs. But if the thread tap doesn't have room on the back side it seems difficult to rethread. Fingers crossed the long bolt approach works first though.
Thank God. I thought you were about to drill and tap that hole with the pan on the vehicle. That wouldn't been hard to watch. All those metal shavings left in the pan, just begging for trouble; whew. I'm so glad you didn't go down that road.
Another great video! A tip for you and your friend, in case you guys weren't aware already. So the Odyssey's and Accords of this era are notorious for having transmission failure. Turns out, they have no filter and only use 3.5 quarts for a drain and fill! (No wonder they fail). The forums recommend a drain and fill at every oil change. There are people who have done this since day one and have over 300k miles on the original Odyssey transmission! At work, we've also brought a couple back from the dead by just doing a drain and fill, run it for a little while, then drain and fill again, a few times. A slipping seemingly no good trans, magically running like new and still going!
Thank you very much! I've actually heard about the transmission problem--the one on this vehicle has been replaced once already. I've never heard or read about the actual cause of the problem or even what the symtoms are (just slipping gears?), however I think I'm gonna have to look into it further. I think a transmission service is an easy thing to do for peace of mind, no doubt.
but doing it every time you change your oil is a little extreme depending on how often you change your motor oil. for me I change my oil every 12000 miles so in that case I could see me changing my transmission fluid at the same time because I only drive 9500 miles a year. 90% of that is free way
+bep2001 kumar but I don't make it to 12000 I change my oil once a year so typically every 9600 miles is when I change my oil
+MrOatmeal5150 There are a couple good videos about removing the trans fluid by disconnecting the cooler line and pumping it out a quart at a time by running the engine a few seconds. Then top off and repeat until the fluid is clean coming out. Always use Honda original fluid. It is NOT the same as standard transmission fluid because Honda transmissions have an unusual design. I do a drain and fill at every oil change and a complete flush at 70,000 when I replace timing belt.
John Ferguson I've been using royal purple max atf for about a year now in my honda civic and my shifts are better then when I was using the genuine honda ATF. From my experience as long as your using a fluid that is compatible with honda ATF-Z1. You should be just fine.
From one Johnny to the next buy an Ecoplug and never deal with threads again.These Ecoplugs last forever and they work on steel and aluminum pan threads regardless of the condition
a mercedes drain plug is longer and a great replacement for jobs like this IF you can torque it to 29 foot pounds to make sure the one time use "crush" washer is indeed "crushed" properly.
Which year/model Mercedes?
Got the hole stripped so far that i wasn't able to screw the drain plug back in :). Drilled the old threads out, retapped and installed a helicoil.
The engine itself is known as a 139qmb chinese engine and the aluminium is really soft.
I did a Engine rebuild last week and found a puddle of oil after just 1 night and replaced the bolt from another engine which still caused a tiny bit of oil leakage and till today i went ahead and used a soft copper ring after installing Heli Coil and shortened the bolt using a hacksaw.
Sure enough and no drip of oil under the engine ( I think 1 drip every week or so )
Running 5w30/5w40 now.
The correct torque for honda oil drain bolts is 42n.m and you can do a Time sert but it is not the permanent fix. Go to honda get a longer drain bolt. It is a normal problem.
A much better way is to get a long M15 x 1,5mm bolt, cut a groove into the end, put some grease of Vaseline in the groove and screw it into the oil pan...slowly and straight. Do it until it goes all the way and then clean the threaded oil pan hole with carb cleaner..then you can cut off the longer grooved part of the bolt so it just passes through the thread in the drain hole, put a washer on ...viola.
With a eco bolt you NEVER have to worry about stripping the oil pan bolt ever again
Dorman makes a genius device,check it out,I have one,no drip
Are you talking about the universal winged plug and if so what kind of vehicle did you use it on??
14 mm by 1.5 thread extra long drain plug fits Mercedes Benz and others will fix this. I believe the dorman part number is 090 - 164
Get a oil drain plug insert kit. You may need a large drill. A Big-sert kit may be better. It has a steel insert. Lisle has a kit that might work. A steel insert is better. A 14x 1.25 Sava-A-Thread kit may do if yours is that size.
new insert install ...............ua-cam.com/video/o16UEEbbcSU/v-deo.html
They have thread pitch gauge at our local lowes.
This is an ideal situation where you still have a few thread waiting, how about when it's totally stripped? 🤔
Try an OEM drain plug, from a 2000- 2005 Honda Insight #90013-PHM-000.
It's longer, the same 1.5 tread pitch, and 14mm.
Do u know if the Honda and the Saturn Vue with the Honda package share same oil pan??
@@merrymenagerie4116 the engines are the same Except for the Crankshaft.
Honda’s crankshaft will last 400,000 miles and the Vue’s will last 150,000 miles
Apprentice + rattle gun + Honda oil pan drain plug = Farrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrk!
simple, clear, love it
many thanks
Hey @50skid. Great video. Literally doing he same thing todau for an 05 odyssey. If that 40mm bolt isn't bottoming out is it safe to use it without cutting (i.e have you seen the inside of the pan/know the location of any pumps or parts it might interfere with?)
I haven't seen the inside yet. It very well may be ok (if annoying).
Appreciate it. I looked at some pan schematics and it looked fine. So far so good. Thanks for the video!
ishunlimted did you use a 40? Did it bottom out against anything? Any problem?
I have a 30 I’d like to use in my 2006 Honda Ridgeline.
Thank you so much. This helped me and saved lots of time and money.
i love hearing that
mercedes benz uses m14x1.5 drain plug just like honda but the one for mersedes is longer, just what you need. if instead of going to the hardware store you had gone to an auto parts store you would had got the right replacement plug.
How did you get the bolt out? Im thinking my bolt is stripped and not my pan. Ive read to kind of pull on it with vise grips
+Quincy Longman spin it with a drill/impact whatever you got and see if you can work a small screwdriver between it and the pan to help it come out.
7:35 where did you find the washer and what's it for?
also copper washer is what i prefer as is softer then a aluminium washer better seal with less tourq
aluminum washers can be reused more times in a pinch
I love it. Great info on a quick fix.
The thread is damaged because:
-- old drain plug seal washer is reused and tighten too much
-- new drain plug washer is placed incorrectly on the bolt (flat side of the washer should go toward the engine, "rounded" side of the washer goes toward the drain plug's head).
-- aftermarket aluminum washer with T6 temper is used (should be T4 or softer)
-- factory torque (27 to 29 foot pounds) seems to be too much.
How to prevent the thread stripping:
-- reinstall plug after engine oil pan is cooled down (about 30 degrees C)
-- if new washer is not available, smear Ultrablue Permatex RTV (which expands when exposed to oil) on the area where threads meet the washer, making 2-3 mm fillet, then reinstall the bolt; maximum torque to be 18 foot pound
-- reduce torque to 22 foot pound max when new washer is used
-- do NOT change oil too often :)
I wonder if the quick oil change places (Jiffy Lube, etc.) use a new correct washer for every oil change?
Nice job !
Why did the new longer bolt bottom out? It looked like the threads bore through the aluminum wall.
The part of the pan where the bolt screws into is lower than the rest of the pan--so the bolt hits the fold in the pan.
50sKid how long did you make the plug? How much of the 45 did you cut off?
I have a 30 I’d like to use. I wonder if that length bolt would hit the fold in the pan.
Thanx
i dont understand. was the BOLT or the SUMP thread damaged? u used the same diameter bolt?
Thanks for the video I just did his on my dirt bike
Hey man love all your videos (specifically your E46 diy's). I was trying to do my oil change and once i broke the bolt free and started to try and take it out it just kept spinning. Im hoping its the plug but preparing for it to be the pan. Do you know what the thread count is for the E46 plug? Thanks for your tips and help
+Quincy Longman Ouch. Surprised that this would happen to the E46 as it's a steel pan. I'm sorry I don't know the thread count but it seems to me the most important thing is to get it out first. Good luck!
+50sKid thanks a bunch!
the length of the screw it's the reason why it cut the thread. i don't think it the original screw. it's well known that the thread length has to be 1.5xdiameter. so for the m14 you need at least 21mm thread.
Yeah it's the original screw. That's Honda for you.
Would 30mm thread be too long to use in a 2006 Ridgeline pan?
Where in California are you?
Nice!
So, did it work? Did it stop the leak?
***** yep
I think my oil pan gasket might have gone bad. That's going to be a pain in the ass. Since the oil pan needs to be removed anyways, I might just get a new oil pan as well. They're cheaper then I expected.
great tip. thx.
Perfect
Thanks! Gracias!
Honda needs to stop making these things. I never had a problem with any other aluminum oil pans. They have us torque them down to 29 to 33 ft lbs per the recommended specs with a torque wrench. I think using anything else than a wrench and a couple of love taps to make sure it's snug is overkill on these things.
Mercedes drain plug is already the same thread and long enough to catch those threads but short enough where you don't have to cut it.
The mercedes oil plug works the one with the 13mm head it's same Threads just longer thank me later this happens alot. People try and change their own oil then take it to Walmart and hope they don't notice so they can blame them. The main reason they get a bad reputation in my opinion
Post link to the fix pls
Most plugs get stripped by the monkeys in the oil change chains and lub shops, they never tell you. I was getting my car inspected I saw the guy stripped the plug of a customer car.
transformerrock.Yep. Some Yamaha dealer moron pretended he's a mechanic then cross threaded the drain bolt. I took it back and they said the bike is SUPPOSED to be like that. OHHHHHHH, right, of course. Told them they just damaged my new bike but cant risk letting them touch it again. Since this was in South East Asia, lots of dark looks and much serious sulking cuz I made them "lose face". What a moronic concept. You can't be called out on anything nor call anyone else out, no matter what useless, ignorant fucks they are. Only big money creeps are allowed to raise shit cuz they're rich and connected. Every other customer just gets laughed at. If you want to know the dealer, PM me. For them it's far more important to look cool in your exculsive staff-only Yamaha, Honda, Kawi or Suzi polo shirt than actually know wtf you're doing. And learning anything from a foreigner who happens to be an EU certified race mechanic? No need. What would he know? Local bike trashing morons claim to know it all. So as I spend a few years working in the region, Ive learned to maintain my own rides and thank god for all the fantastic online forums. You guys are life-savers. I know all the bleeding hearts out there will tell me I'm a Nazi Imperialist slave owning monster but I'm willing to take the flack cuz my bikes run soooo smooth. Amazing what some patience, questions and following instructions can do!!
vual grimoire
This is a lot of BS from a You Tube Troll !!
Busted by your own words stupid.
Your very Stupid by saying your are a
UA CERTIFIED RACING MECHANIC !
But you don’t know how to change the oil on your motorcycle.
So true! That’s how I got mine stripped. Will do my own oil change from now on. Damn it.
@@992turbos8 lol
My brake, door lights, and battery light came on 2001 odyssey idle rough and surging when in drive and come to a stop. Any idea what that could be? Thank you
The surging is your idle control valve. A battery light usually means your alternator isn't working. Not sure about the rest.
Thank you so much! I also noticed the idle is a little rough I had the alternator tested because I had a battery drain. The alternator tested good. I replaced the battery and it was good for a little while the lights went off but now they're back on 😰 the electrical has been a little wacky for a while. Thank you for the great heads up on the PCV valve. As soon as I can hunt this problem I'll have my mechanic change the PCV, if I don't do it myself, thank you again for your prompt answer, I'll keep you posted
Thak you!
Great repair , but when ever you add the old oil back in ..WTH 😬
I noticed that there is not much Thread Engagement there is only a small portion of the plug where it is screwed in. looks like there is more thread at the back of the hole use a longer bolt to get full engagement . also Aluminum (Soft) is not made to have a bolt run in and out of it namely a steel one . don't know what car Engineers are thinking
That is what I did in this video
What I did was put a pan saver bolt in there in place of the original oil pan bolt
What’s a pan saver bolt? Part number or link?
thanks for the ved
Unfortunately some cars have bolts much longer than that one :/
I never could figure out how a person could strip out a drain plug?
Mercedes drain plug would work
Any type of Mercedes or a specific yr ??
how to fix broken stripped oil plug for my motor cycle honda rs125
14 x 1.5 thread
You know google or a service manual will tell you alot faster about your vehicle, than printing out sheets of thread patterns......
what's the link for the thread pitch sizes ?
A Mendez my
Longer bolt solved my problem. The damage was did by a stupid mechanic and its good becuase i am cheking under the car as often i can.
Why do the work ? Why not just buy a shorter bolt ?
+Jim Brown not easily available in US hardware stores
Try Home Depot. They have them in 30 and 40 mm lengths.
www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-M14-1-5-x-30-mm-Zinc-Class-8-8-Metric-Hex-Bolt-04358/203539433
Jim Brown product no longer available it seems.
Jim Brown I found a M14x1.5x30 at an Ace Hardware. Would that be too long to use? Would I need to cut off a few millimeters so the plug won’t bottom out and touch something inside the drain pan?
I have a 2006 Honda Ridgeline. Same issue as the Oddysey in this video.
Try ecoplug go magnetic
It's an aluminum pan
John Nacci yes you can use it with aluminum look for info
ecoplugsystem.com/
They have videos how to install it
there is only one option a $15.00 Ecoplug 1 minute done!
Eco-plug won't work on aluminium pan, that is the problem.
i dont like aluminun oil pan over time they alway strip. haha lol.
i did this to my quad now its busted
And they say Subaru’s leak
EcoPlug.
e46 CCV Pls! :D
***** I know, I'm trying to get to it. I have a bunch of vids in the can at this point and life keeps getting in the way when it comes time to make the CCV vid (don't worry I'll post it right after I shoot it).
Too much preamble. Why not get on with it.
you repaired nothing!!!
get a genuine bolt full length
sparks flying on to wood is a no no
how to fix broken stripped oil plug for my motor cycle honda rs125
how to fix broken stripped oil plug for my motor cycle honda rs125
how to fix broken stripped oil plug for my motor cycle honda rs125