I have a 2010 impala with a stripped oil pan. I bought the plug with the toggle that grips the walls on the inside of the pan. I'm still using it over 2 years now and changed the oil a few times already. No leaks. I did use some 220 grit sand paper on the oil pan where the plug seals. I was surprised to find that the surface wasn't smooth before sanding.
Awesome 👌 I just failed P.A. safety inspection on the family van because of oil dripping from the drain plug and I can have it professionally fixed by them for only $860 . I laughed at the guy . times are tough my brother and I need a cheap quick fix and this looks like it . I may even use the JB weld . 👍
Thanks for showing this. It looks to be the best option for my situation. My pan stripped a while back from one of the times I didn't do my own oil change. The plug actually still holds without leaking, but it never quite gets tight, so I don't trust that it will stay in place indefinitely. This looks ideal. I'll probably use RTV, thread locker, or epoxy. The piggyback preserves the ability to drain the oil in the conventional way, but I'll likely go with one of those vacuum oil extractors, which I already have handy and really should use more anyway.
Thanks, mine are stripped and repaired with helicoil 3 times. Alu sump. Thinking next time might be final repair and will replace with Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve. From Germany, so not sure if available in USA.
had same problem on my acura rdx and yes i actually used jbw and same bolt the piggyback and works perfect takes a wild to drain but no biggy i think this is better than rreeedooo the treads and alll of that so worked for me im happy 🤷🏽♂️
@@gavinmcclure8047 man i dont remember orreylis or autozone have those and i think is half size bigger take the oldone and match it i aply epoxi on the threads noooo problem till now solid fix
I got the same problem and that’s the part I need. My issue is the drain plug just spins around, so I can’t remove it to replace it. It is kinda tight and no oil is leaking now but I need to change out the oil
@@ianman15You have to pry with a flat screw driver until it locks and lets you take it out. You have to apply lots of pressure downwards and go very slow. You also have to chip the gasket or washer to make room for the flat screwdriver to go in properly for the pry. The screwdriver applies pressure upwards and your ratchet downwards. Go slow, hope it grabs and goes out!
👍🏻 my son at the time age 18 decided to watch a video on UA-cam and change his own oil, Dad couldn’t be more proud of him but he got inch pounds in foot pounds confused and try to torque the drain plug in foot pounds…. That did not work very well!
I have the same issue with my Polaris. I had a 18mm plug that stripped out the case, I ordered a similar fitting that you used. It was 18mm also. That should rethread into the existing hole correct?
Thanks for the video and solution. I just bought a '12 Mazda CX9 Touring. Found out previous owner's oil changer stripped the drain plug and has put in what a mechanic told me was a "pan saver" rubber expansion plug that is dripping oil from it. I'm concerned with the Dorman piggy back style with the much smaller center plug. Will it adequately drain all of the oil when removed?
Yes, it drains all the oil, just takes longer. I replaced the rubber o-ring on the small plug with a copper washer because I didn't trust the o-ring. Definitely put JB Weld around the outer threads when you cut it in. I used RTV and it's starting to drip.
@@QuickSpeedShop thanks for responding. I'm still leery of the process. I've only had one experience with a stripped drain plug threads and it was years ago on my late mom's 68 Mercury Monterey that had the base 390 V8. Someone stripped out the plug previously and I ended up getting the last available oversize plug a tripple. It cut new threads again and it was fine for the few years she drove it into the early 90s. It was a same Ford/Mercury drain plug just oversize threads. I haven't been able to find a similar oversize thread cutting drain plug yet for the Mazda. If I can't I may have to go to the piggy-back. Definitely will use JB Weld. It's been a life saver many times. You recommend mixing it and placing it on the threads prior to insertion and tightening rather than their compound? And you don't turn it until it's flush with the pan surface, just when it gets very hard to turn then stop?
@@QuickSpeedShop that's what I was thinking needed to be done, apply the JBW to the threads of the insert and with its gasket turn it in until it's flush with the pan surface. Thanks.
Daughters car drain stripped by some jerk……bought a slightly oversized plug ….drilled the drain hole out with the appropriate sized drill to retap the pan……gob grease on the drill to capture metal chips….instal new plug ….worked til the next jerk muscled the plug home……
How did you get the original toggle clamp piece (from the original Doorman retrofit plug) out of the oil pan? A friend has a 2004 Saturn Vue with the exact same crappy Doorman retro plug, and its hard to get the "bottlecap" piece to re-seal after 1 or 2 oil changes. So, I want to remove that crappy Doorman plug, but I'm afraid that once I screw out the "bottlecap" piece that the toggle piece will fall down inside the oil pan, and that I wouldn't be able to fish it out. It's probably OK to leave it in the pan, but I don't feel 100% good about that. So, I'm wondering if you have any tricks on getting the toggle piece out. Would a small, pin-sized magnet fish it out??
@@QuickSpeedShop : Thanks. I'll remember that trick. ... My Dorman toggle plug is not broken. It just doesn't fully seal (drips probably 1/2 cup per day). Looking at an online picture of one of these Dorman toggle parts, I notice that the pin does not have threads going out to the very end of it, but instead has a slightly enlarged end, so to prevent backing out the "bottlecap" plate so much that the toggle piece would come loose. But in my case, I WANT to remove it. But since the pin does not have threads all the way to the end, I won't be able to unthread it loose. I'm going to have to just figure out a way to separate the toggle piece from the pin. I also ordered a good magnet (on a stick) in case that might help me fish out the toggle piece, but of course if it is Aluminum that won't help any. Thanks for your very helpful video!!!
Yes, you're supposed to thread it a few turns, remove, and clean shavings off the bolt. Repeat until it bottoms out, then install a last time permanently.
I'm considering doing this on an aluminum pan but wondering a couple things you may have asked as well? 1, Could you just re-tap the hole to either the original or another standard drainpug that looks slightly larger? 2, Also, with the piggy back plug, why use the small hole at all and instead is there an issue if you just used the entire piggy back plug as a normal plug and remove the larger section each time you drain your oil?
The big plug is tapered like a tap to cut new threads. If you remove it, it will probably not tighten again and leak. My pan had threads broke out of it so just tapping the original hole would do no good.
@@QuickSpeedShop ahh ok thank you. By the way if you have a next time I'm finding people have good success with a slightly oversized drain plug which also self tapps but it's just like a regular plug and is reusable to be considered a permanent fix. 7-10$ so I may try that one.
@@OneklickmediaNever said it will work everywhere, but here it would have-lots of access for a tap. The reason you leak is because you tapped it crooked. Stick an o-ring in be-tween head of plug and plastic washer might stop leak. Trick to tap straight is thread a nut on tap and keep it pushed up tight to pan(or whatever) while you cut threads.
What? I didn't strip this one it was already stripped when I bought it and poorly repaired. You asked "Do oil plugs strip on every car?" and I said, "No, only if people don't know what they are doing and strip them" which is how they get stripped. Its literally that simple.
What do you bet if someone had an oil change place do it with one of these the monkies would take the whole plug out and put back in? Better tell them every time to use the piggyback bolt if you don't do your own oil ,or if you did this for someone else's car that doesn't.
😂😂😂😂 I’m sure that was meant to be done with the oil pan removed from the engine block otherwise where’d you think this metal shavings you cut through are going? You are right they stay inside the oil pan and I don’t think the engine is going to like that 😂😂😂😂
No, it's meant to fix a pan in the car. Don't you think if I could get the pan off I just wouldn't have replaced it with a new one? If you're worried about the slim chance of tiny metal shaving being left near the hole, then stick a magnet in there to get any out.
I have a 2010 impala with a stripped oil pan. I bought the plug with the toggle that grips the walls on the inside of the pan. I'm still using it over 2 years now and changed the oil a few times already. No leaks. I did use some 220 grit sand paper on the oil pan where the plug seals. I was surprised to find that the surface wasn't smooth before sanding.
Can you send me a link of the one you got having the same issue
Another tip to keep our vehicles on the road. Thanks for the INFO.
Awesome 👌
I just failed P.A. safety inspection on the family van because of oil dripping from the drain plug and I can have it professionally fixed by them for only $860 . I laughed at the guy .
times are tough my brother and I need a cheap quick fix and this looks like it .
I may even use the JB weld . 👍
Definitely use the JB Weld. Mine leaks a tiny bit around the RTV.
yea i i strongly recomend use jbw seals pretyyyyy good use the high temp jbw
Thanks for showing this. It looks to be the best option for my situation. My pan stripped a while back from one of the times I didn't do my own oil change. The plug actually still holds without leaking, but it never quite gets tight, so I don't trust that it will stay in place indefinitely. This looks ideal. I'll probably use RTV, thread locker, or epoxy. The piggyback preserves the ability to drain the oil in the conventional way, but I'll likely go with one of those vacuum oil extractors, which I already have handy and really should use more anyway.
A lot of people use JB Weld around the big plug. Mine did develop a slight drip around the RTV.
@@QuickSpeedShop Thanks for the follow up. I appreciate it. I should have the JB Weld handy, so that's probably the best way to go.
Thanks, mine are stripped and repaired with helicoil 3 times. Alu sump. Thinking next time might be final repair and will replace with Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve. From Germany, so not sure if available in USA.
had same problem on my acura rdx and yes i actually used jbw and same bolt the piggyback and works perfect takes a wild to drain but no biggy i think this is better than rreeedooo the treads and alll of that so worked for me im happy 🤷🏽♂️
What size did you use I have to get one for my 04 tl
@@gavinmcclure8047 man i dont remember orreylis or autozone have those and i think is half size bigger take the oldone and match it i aply epoxi on the threads noooo problem till now solid fix
Great video!! will that work on a Audi a stripped hex insert.. Thanks for sharing ..
I got the same problem and that’s the part I need. My issue is the drain plug just spins around, so I can’t remove it to replace it. It is kinda tight and no oil is leaking now but I need to change out the oil
Have the same issue. What did you do?
@@ianman15You have to pry with a flat screw driver until it locks and lets you take it out. You have to apply lots of pressure downwards and go very slow. You also have to chip the gasket or washer to make room for the flat screwdriver to go in properly for the pry. The screwdriver applies pressure upwards and your ratchet downwards. Go slow, hope it grabs and goes out!
@@alanmanquero no you don't you just unscrew it and pull.
@@TAPATIOPLEASE Most will keep spinning
@@alanmanquero not if you're pulling , get pliers or crescent then pull while spinning
👍🏻 my son at the time age 18 decided to watch a video on UA-cam and change his own oil, Dad couldn’t be more proud of him but he got inch pounds in foot pounds confused and try to torque the drain plug in foot pounds…. That did not work very well!
At least it wasn't going to fall out! 😮
Great video I love these quick tech tip videos, I remember selling those but never used them. Thanks for the video Josh. Have a great week
I had a 1975 Nova with a straight six (bought new) that came from the factory with a rubber drain plug. Push in type.
Really? I've never seen one. Did it leak as it got pulled a few times?
@@QuickSpeedShop no not that I recall
@@QuickSpeedShop No, I’m just kidding! Don’t think that would work to good 😂. I had to pull your leg.
Imma try to put this in my dirt bike hopefully it works temporarily until I tap and repair the threads
I have the same issue with my Polaris. I had a 18mm plug that stripped out the case, I ordered a similar fitting that you used. It was 18mm also. That should rethread into the existing hole correct?
I assume it will.
You don’t have to drain it out just in case of metal shavings?
It doesn't really make any shavings
Thanks for the video and solution. I just bought a '12 Mazda CX9 Touring. Found out previous owner's oil changer stripped the drain plug and has put in what a mechanic told me was a "pan saver" rubber expansion plug that is dripping oil from it. I'm concerned with the Dorman piggy back style with the much smaller center plug. Will it adequately drain all of the oil when removed?
Yes, it drains all the oil, just takes longer. I replaced the rubber o-ring on the small plug with a copper washer because I didn't trust the o-ring. Definitely put JB Weld around the outer threads when you cut it in. I used RTV and it's starting to drip.
@@QuickSpeedShop thanks for responding. I'm still leery of the process. I've only had one experience with a stripped drain plug threads and it was years ago on my late mom's 68 Mercury Monterey that had the base 390 V8. Someone stripped out the plug previously and I ended up getting the last available oversize plug a tripple. It cut new threads again and it was fine for the few years she drove it into the early 90s. It was a same Ford/Mercury drain plug just oversize threads. I haven't been able to find a similar oversize thread cutting drain plug yet for the Mazda. If I can't I may have to go to the piggy-back. Definitely will use JB Weld. It's been a life saver many times. You recommend mixing it and placing it on the threads prior to insertion and tightening rather than their compound? And you don't turn it until it's flush with the pan surface, just when it gets very hard to turn then stop?
I turned the big one flush to the pan. I'd do the threads and all the way around the outside.
@@QuickSpeedShop that's what I was thinking needed to be done, apply the JBW to the threads of the insert and with its gasket turn it in until it's flush with the pan surface. Thanks.
Daughters car drain stripped by some jerk……bought a slightly oversized plug ….drilled the drain hole out with the appropriate sized drill to retap the pan……gob grease on the drill to capture metal chips….instal new plug ….worked til the next jerk muscled the plug home……
I'm so glad I found this and will take this route for my oil pan. Just curious and excuse my noobness, which JB weld should I use? 😅
Just regular JB. I think its red and black. Spray everything off with Brake-clean to make sure there is no oil.
You think that will make any small chips inside the oil pan?
No
Are you concerned about any metal cuttings getting into oil pan?
No
Why are you not concerned about potential metal pieces that may come free and land inside the pan as the new threads are being cut?
If that happened they would stay in the bottom of the pan and would come out with the next oil change.
How did you get the original toggle clamp piece (from the original Doorman retrofit plug) out of the oil pan?
A friend has a 2004 Saturn Vue with the exact same crappy Doorman retro plug, and its hard to get the "bottlecap" piece to re-seal after 1 or 2 oil changes. So, I want to remove that crappy Doorman plug, but I'm afraid that once I screw out the "bottlecap" piece that the toggle piece will fall down inside the oil pan, and that I wouldn't be able to fish it out. It's probably OK to leave it in the pan, but I don't feel 100% good about that. So, I'm wondering if you have any tricks on getting the toggle piece out. Would a small, pin-sized magnet fish it out??
I used a long skinny screw driver and flipped the toggle over parallel to the screw and was able to slide the whole thing out
@@QuickSpeedShop : Thanks. I'll remember that trick. ... My Dorman toggle plug is not broken. It just doesn't fully seal (drips probably 1/2 cup per day). Looking at an online picture of one of these Dorman toggle parts, I notice that the pin does not have threads going out to the very end of it, but instead has a slightly enlarged end, so to prevent backing out the "bottlecap" plate so much that the toggle piece would come loose.
But in my case, I WANT to remove it. But since the pin does not have threads all the way to the end, I won't be able to unthread it loose. I'm going to have to just figure out a way to separate the toggle piece from the pin.
I also ordered a good magnet (on a stick) in case that might help me fish out the toggle piece, but of course if it is Aluminum that won't help any.
Thanks for your very helpful video!!!
Doesn’t the cut metal shavings stay in your oil?
There are negligible shaving, if any. It's not a problem.
Yes, you're supposed to thread it a few turns, remove, and clean shavings off the bolt. Repeat until it bottoms out, then install a last time permanently.
I'm considering doing this on an aluminum pan but wondering a couple things you may have asked as well?
1, Could you just re-tap the hole to either the original or another standard drainpug that looks slightly larger?
2, Also, with the piggy back plug, why use the small hole at all and instead is there an issue if you just used the entire piggy back plug as a normal plug and remove the larger section each time you drain your oil?
The big plug is tapered like a tap to cut new threads. If you remove it, it will probably not tighten again and leak. My pan had threads broke out of it so just tapping the original hole would do no good.
@@QuickSpeedShop ahh ok thank you. By the way if you have a next time I'm finding people have good success with a slightly oversized drain plug which also self tapps but it's just like a regular plug and is reusable to be considered a permanent fix. 7-10$ so I may try that one.
I saw those, but my pan had threads completely missing and I wasn't sure one of those would work.
I need one of these for my Acura tl
“It’s going to be a little bit sloppy “, that’s what she said.😮 Lol
Yikes!
Any updates on how it is?
It leaked with RTV. I would suggest JB Weld around the outside. I actually removed the whole thing and welded a new bung to the pan for a new bolt.
About how many inch-pounds was 'pretty tight', I'm wondering? Wouldn't want to strip out the pan again.
I don't know. I went by feel.
What if my threads somehow are tapered? Idk why i bought a drain bolt my honda civic and it just keeps spinning
If it's spinning it's stripped out
@@QuickSpeedShop the bolt i have for some reason looks tapered it def isnt original thats how. Igot it
That's a self taping bolt. It kind of cuts new threads, it oversized. It might work
Just tap it out to 5/8-18 and buy a buy a 5/8 fine drain plug. Cheaper and better.
Not always the case, but some yes. I tried and bmw still leak. Going to try this route now with jbw. If doesn’t work I’m going to just buy new pan 😅
@@OneklickmediaNever said it will work everywhere, but here it would have-lots of access for a tap. The reason you leak is because you tapped it crooked. Stick an o-ring in be-tween head of plug and plastic washer might stop leak. Trick to tap straight is thread a nut on tap and keep it pushed up tight to pan(or whatever) while you cut threads.
Do oil plugs strip on every car? Wow
No, only if people don't know what they are doing when tightening them.
@@QuickSpeedShopyou are a dick to you posted the video lmfoa
What? I didn't strip this one it was already stripped when I bought it and poorly repaired. You asked "Do oil plugs strip on every car?" and I said, "No, only if people don't know what they are doing and strip them" which is how they get stripped. Its literally that simple.
What do you bet if someone had an oil change place do it with one of these the monkies would take the whole plug out and put back in? Better tell them every time to use the piggyback bolt if you don't do your own oil ,or if you did this for someone else's car that doesn't.
I'm sure they would.
😂😂😂😂 I’m sure that was meant to be done with the oil pan removed from the engine block otherwise where’d you think this metal shavings you cut through are going? You are right they stay inside the oil pan and I don’t think the engine is going to like that 😂😂😂😂
No, it's meant to fix a pan in the car. Don't you think if I could get the pan off I just wouldn't have replaced it with a new one? If you're worried about the slim chance of tiny metal shaving being left near the hole, then stick a magnet in there to get any out.
Rtv shouldn't have been needed because of the rubber oring
Even with RTV it drips. I should have used JB Weld.